Do you have an output from Q-1. What do you have on U-9 pin 39.

Pin 39 is high (no pulse)

Not sure on Q1. Low (no pulse) on logic probe. Test in diode test with a meter?

GRUMPY I forgot to mention that both MPU diagnostic buttons (sound and the CPU one) do not work. Could this be related to my speech issue?

Tossing this out there. I am in need of a system11c MPU. Any awesome Pinsider have one for a decent price? Thx

I actually had a spare over a year ago and sold it for a great price to a pinsider. Now, I have acquired 2 System11c Pins since then and in need of one. man, is this irony? or Murphy's Law kicking on or what??

U-24 pin 6, what do you read, then press and hold the diagnostic switch #1, what do you read now?

When I touch pin 6 with the probe, its dead initially, but then goes high and the game goes into memory protect failure. Power cycle needed to boot it. If I am holding the diag switch #1, pin 6 is low no pulse. when I let go it goes high and memory protect failure.

Try the same thing on U-15 pin 6, and diagnostic switch #2.

Almost exactly the same result. Pin was dead for a moment, then flashed high and rebooted into memory protect one time. But this one was dead mostly until I held switch #2 and then went low.

Added another system 11 to the lineup! Picked up this Earthshaker about 2 weeks ago and started ordering parts. The game had 2 broken ramps, a burnt out display and it wasn’t booting. So far I have the game fully working, I replaced both ramps with new ones from Starship Fantasy, ordered a new blue LED display and I added WiFi controlled RGB LED accent lighting to the side and center ramp to brighten up the play field. This game is a lot of fun and the play field was in decent condition. Most is covered with Mylar and there’s a few wear spot but nothing major. Here’s some pics of its current state with the led lighting off and on.

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Still need pics of a Diner aux driver board if anyone is willing to help out. Just got back to civilization and ready to finally get this thing working. Thanks in advance

That's a cool game, I've always wanted one. Congrats.

Anything specific you need to know?

Anyone got a decent Mousin Around playfield for sale?

Send me a message if you do!

Cheers
Dave.

Pinsider GRUMPY is helping me work through some problems and he suggests making sure all the jumpers are correct. My board is from another game and although they match the manual he suggests this may be an issue. So if you can confirm the posistion of the jumpers I can go with that. Thanks for the reply.

Here you go....
If you need the original higher resolution, just let me know.

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

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Thank you Peter! Exactly what I needed. You are an asset to the hobby.

nup , that's who I bought it from , i'm a little more hairier than him

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Looking for a diverter arm assembly for Riverboat Gambler..... or just the metal shaft..... or just the black arm. Whatever ya got.

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GRUMPY I get this now quite often. I can reboot and it will come back in short order. Where is the best place to start troubleshooting this?

Thanks as always for your help.

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Did you try booting with the coin door open?
Are the batteries good?

I tested the coin door switch already. The game will boot. It just randomly goes into memory protect. No batteries, NVRAM installed.

Replace the sockets for the game roms on the cpu.

Got it. I'll give that a try. Thanks!

Also reflow some of the vias around this area too.

Looking for some advice. I cleaned up this board as best as I could after removing all the corroded components. All the traces look good and meter out fine but the pads and some traces are darker than their surroundings. Is this something that is going to continue to degrade? Is there something I should do other than sucking the solder and replacing components / sockets?

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You're repairing alkaline damage from batteries? Here's Terry B's extensive guide: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-repairing-battery-damage

The dark traces/pads is the alkaline under the green solder mask attacking the copper traces. If you try and apply any heat to the top side of the board, it will eat up those traces/pads. As Terry's guide mentions, sanding the traces to the bare copper is next and then treat it with vinegar and follow with cleaning with alcohol. Then you will be safe to be able to solder on the top side of the board.

They seem to have cleaned up real nice. I am not sure that this needs to be sanded.

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More sanding and neutralizing is needed before moving on next step.

Ok, glad I asked. Should I sand the entire area then? I read the thread about repairs but want to make sure I fix it properly the first go if I can.

Looking to join this cool club by buying an Earthshaker. Anybody selling one near California? PM me if you have one. Thanks!

Looking for road kings, millionaire, or other sub $1500 system 11s within 2-3 hours of ERIE PA OR BUFFALO NY.

I sanded the area down, but is this enough? I am also not completely sure if painting over all the copper is necessary or not. I know I would need to leave the pads bare but do I paint roght to them? Thanks again for any help.

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Yes, that looks good.

Coating the traces would be ideal with finger nail polish or actual conformal board coating up to the pads so that it would seal it and help protect from accidental shorts or damage to the traces if you were to slip while troubleshooting in the future with a meter or logic probe while power is on.

Order a new C30 as well. Life expectancy is very near its end and can cause random boot failures.

Here is a couple spots that still need some sanding and cleaning, there maybe a few more.

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Gotcha. The lower right of that pic had a spot that looked the same. Lost a couple traces sanding but I'm glad I found it now. I can't imagine that it would have lasted very long if they came up so easy. Thanks!

I still have 1 trace to fix but I am getting there. I want to do it right the first time.

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Can anyone give me an estimate for buying a coin door for a Pinbot? I want to have an idea before posting a want ad. Something in need of resto is fine.

I don't think you have to put a price on a WTB ad.

Yeah, I just don't want to be the guy who puts up a want ad but can't afford it.

Working on MPU and realized new header pins I ordered are round style, not the square type with 4 flat sides...

Should I hold off and order the square ones?
Wasn't sure of difference....though I'm sure there is a discussion thread on it somewhere already; just didnt see it.

Well, the square pins would make much better contact because there will be more surface area to connect to. I would wait for the new ones.

Well, you can make an offer to them once you get a reply if it sounds out of reach for you. No harm. You don't have to take the first one that comes along.

What is wrong with your coin door you have now?

That's kind of my thinking as well.

Thanks!

I picked up this Pinbot for $300 and it had a piece of plexi for a door and battery damage. The lady had it since she was a kid. Said an operator sold them with no door to prevent competition. Other than that it was in excellent shape.

Has anyone used a 2n5550 in place of a 2n3904? I have a large bag of 2n5550's and 2n4403's but pinbot 11a board is calling for 2n3904's
Another spot is calling for 2n6427's so I trying to figure out if one of those will work in there. I have very limited knowledge of transistors. Any help is appteciated.

I'll have to say no. They have different characteristics and not compatible.

A Mousin Around with some cabinet colour is a thing of beauty ...

Before ...

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After ...

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rd

Is your pinhauler a hearse??!

Ok, I see why I ended up with 2n5550's and not 2n3904's. The 11c board has the 2n5550 transistor on q42-q49 but the 11a has the 2n3904 transistor in that same spot. Seems like it is the same but higher rated voltage, but that is only from reading other posts. I would think it will work since it is in the 11c board and perhaps even an upgrade? Am I wrong?
Thanks for any input