Okay I haven't fixed the switch, but I found a workaround. I just stuck a screwdriver across two of the switch contacts and got it to register after about a second. That's good enough for me!

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You may need a new diode.

mystman12 contact cleaner or deoxit might do the trick

Going back to this discussion beginning at post 2877, Troxel has the system 11 switch assemblies including the center self latching switch...

https://troxelrepair.com/product/williams-buttons/

I ended up fixing my old switch and kept the Troxel assembly as a spare. So I didn't actually try it. But the only difference I see is that the sheet metal connecting bracket is a bit thinner and the mounting holes aren't tapped. You could tap your own or switch to sheet metal screws.

Alright, I have a bit of a long question... You know how you can rebuild the wms 3-7 driver board lamp drivers by changing out the transistors and removing the large 27 ohm resistors? I've seen it done two ways, change TIP42 to Mosfet and add 16 resistors, or an easier change to TIP125/TIP127 and swap the resistor out with a little 10k 1/4w guy.

My question is - what about system 9/11? Looking at pinwiki, they have only the one method listed (mosfet), but since both worked on 3-7, and the architecture is basically the same, would the easier tip125 swap work on a sys 9/11?

Service switches:

Mouser part numbers:

3 button metal holder: 611-C0310
4 button metal holder: 611-C03175
White cap: 611-F0202
Red cap: 611-F0203
push switch (momentary): 611-F2UOA
push switch (locking): 611-F2UEETB/120049

Digikey also carries, but tends to cost more for these items.

pm sent

Just thought I’d ask this here: does anyone else replace Tnuts w just a nut and washer under Pf?

I’m restoring a diner and have multiple cracked screws posts. I heat the tnut before unscrewing, but some crack off (the posts).

Any reason to NOT just reattach the new post w a nut under pf?

Sure, if the replacement post is long enough to take the washer and a nylock nut.

The only reason to not do this would be if it's a post that you might need to remove with some regularity, although I can't imagine what that would be.

The posts crack because the factory used the wrong loctite on them, once you replace the tnut you probably wont have this issue.

Hi everyone, just finishing up my Pinbot reconditioning and I have a couple lingering issues. The weird one is when I turn the game on all (or a few, can't really tell) of the solenoids on IJ11 pulse. It's not major, it's a quick fire, not enough to launch a ball but I don't recall that happening before I had the thing apart but honestly I have no idea. Is this normal when you power the game on?

Double post.

I'll answer my own question. I shorted out the 28v flash lamps which knocked out the respective transistors and the 74f04 IC. That IC was causing three transistors to get locked on, but also causing something to tell all the solenoids to fire. Replacing the transistors as well as the IC solved all of those problems.

I just picked up a Roller Games and lights in back box don’t work. Has anyone else had that problem and know where to find the problem?

I would start by taking a close look at the interconnect board. The connection to the lights could be loose and/or toasty.

I’ve done this in a few instances. A lot of time the Tnut was used because it’s under a mech plate or near some type of switch you don’t want coming into contact with that post or any extra metal.

It’s just an open Playfield underneath you should be fine.

Hello everyone! I am looking for the Center Chute Right Exit bracket and assembly that hooks to the switch on a William Road Kings. Any leads would be appreciated.

Is there any way to adjust the trough eject on System 11s? The one on my Big Guns is way too strong, and occasionally launches balls on top of the plunger cover.

looking for this shooter gauge decal for my funhouse restore......anyone have an extra laying around?

shooter decal (236x108) (resized).jpg

Check if you have the correct coil on the eject.
It should be an AE-23-800.
Hmm, this is one of the strongest coils....
You could use a AE-24-900 or go even higher, AE-27-1000.

Looking for the following System 11 aprons in nice condition:

Dr. Dude

Bad Cats

Thanks in advance

Chris

Yeah, I checked that, it's correct. Good to know there are weaker coils I could try though, thanks!

Bend the arm that kicks it out slightly to adjust where the ball trajectory goes. Also, the trough material itself can be shaped to adjust this.... and there should be a piece inside that has a "roof" to help guide it as well although that might be farther back (its purpose is to prevent a ball traveling from the outhole from jumping over balls already resting in the trough)

bump.........still looking

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Hey all - this is in regard to a PinBot; it has been fine for years, since I had all the boards overhauled (in 2014.)
I recently swapped the playfield; this isn’t my first rodeo with playfield swaps by any means, but it is the first time I put a playfield back in the game a had a coil locking issue.

Here’s the issue; when I first fired up the machine, it was locking the drop target reset coil and the back box flashers on the right (Pinbot’s lightning bolt finger) were staying on. Also, the fuse at the relay daughter board blew.
I wish I could remember the sequence of events more precisely, but you know how it is.
The drop target coil and the flashers are on the same circuit, and i figured the only way they could be staying on at the same time was for the relay to have somehow become stuck together (I know, it doesn’t really physically make sense). I couldn’t get the relay to click using a jumper, whereas the one next to it for the GI responded. Of course, transistor Q24 was crapped out. Not scorched, but took a hit and needed to be replaced. When I measured the diodes on the steering diode board under the playfield, diode C-4 game me a reading in both directions.

So, I ordered some stuff from GPE. New diodes, new transistors and pre-driver transistors, and a new relay.
Today I installed the new relay, replaced pre-driver and main transistor Q20 and Q24, and replaced the diodes at A-4 and C-4 on the steering diode board.

I turned on the game, and there was a new issue - the visor motor didn’t operate as it usually does when booting up. I should have taken the hint that something was up, but no, I decided to run the coil test anyway. As soon as it got to the Drop Target reset, the coil locked on. I turned the game off, and checked the transistor. Of course, it had blown.

I’m kinda out of ideas at this point. The visor motor thing has me pretty puzzled. (The fuse is fine.) Would appreciate the wisdom of the crowd if anybody has some insight here.

I used stencils to repaint my shooter lane cover. Let me know if you are interested.

thanks anyway........found a decal

The center drop on the right bank on my Big Guns is acting up, and after trying a couple repairs I'm not really sure where to go from here.

Sometimes it will go a little while and work just fine, but usually it just doesn't register hits. When it does decide to work for a little bit, it's usually for a few games after I first turn on the machine, but that isn't always the case.

I tried cleaning the opto and reflowing the solder on it, but neither of those things seem to have made any difference. Once I put everything back together it worked for a couple games, but then stopped again.

At this point I'm not really sure what else to look at. I know the connectors can sometimes cause intermittent problems with System 11 drops but I'm not sure how to test that. So, anything I should look at/test to try and diagnose the issue further?

Does it work in test mode?

Are you talking about the paddles in the lower half of the playfield, or the drop targets in front of the troll? If it's the drops, you may want to check for cold solder joints on the board where the connector plugs in. I've had to repair a couple of those on my Sys11s by reflowing the solder at the IDC connector.

Its not sys11 without a burnt GI connector and cold solder.

It's like a rite of passage really.

I have a Grand Lizard. My displays have missing segments during game play. In test mode all the segments test good. What would cause this?

A friend's Riverboat Gambler is having some problems when it powers up. It starts a cycle of the lift crank assembly on the ramp moves a little, followed by the left drop target solenoid energizing and all the controlled lights will go out and then come back on. I've also noticed that the +5VAC and blanking leds on the MPU board are solidly lit, and the diagnosis led is blinking. The diagnosis and the blanking led will go out when the left drop target solenoid is energized. I've reseated all the connectors on the MPU board and there is nothing that jumps out at me on the MPU board that looks fried. Now when I go into the adjustments and bookeeping settings, the solenoids stop there energizing cycle. Any suggestions on where to start to troubleshoot this?

So I fixed that problem by reseating 1J8 on the MPU board. Now the next problem is the game will reset shortly after I launch the first ball. Also the display is saying press advance when it is powered up. When I check the messages, it says wheel error, and I've reseated the two connectors on the back side of the wheel board without solving the error.

I spoke too soon. The resetting is back with the energizing of the solenoids for the left target bank and the ramp...

Current machines

Police force
F-14
Earthshaker
Jokerz

I've been trying to reassemble my Dr Dude, but I can't make sense of the speakers and the speaker panel. The wires between the speakers doesn't seem long enough for them to sit in their cutouts. Does anyone have a picture of the wiring in the speaker panel of a System 11c Bally with the speakers up top?

I have mine open right now and see that a 2 pin molex (foreground of 2nd photo) goes to the left speaker then over to the right. Hope this helps.

20210530_222659.jpg

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I tried doing that just now, but it didn't seem to make any difference. Just to be sure the issue was with the board I swapped the two drop boards and the problem did switch to the left side, so definitely something wrong with the board. I tried checking it with a multimeter, and while I don't know exactly what I'm looking for, I did notice this component measured differently for the center opto than the other two. The others read at 21 as seen on the photo, but the center read at about 26.

PXL_20210605_214157436.MP (resized).jpg

PXL_20210605_214205229~2 (resized).jpg

The fix was to replace the bridge rectifier on the power supply board, however that was after I recapped the board and replaced Q5 trying to track the problem down the schematic. The next problem was while all the solenoids work in test, most didn't work during gameplay. The problem solenoids were all of them minus the flippers, slingshots and pop bumpers. After I added a little bit of solder to the connector pins/bridge rectifiers on the auxiliary power driver unit board everything was working perfectly.

On a System 9 Space Shuttle, should I install the yellow capacitors on the flippers to reduce spark? If so, Where do they connect? Thanks.

Did you see Vid's guide on rebuilding flippers? He has a whole section on rebuilding them with WPC-style flippers which includes the cap.

Hi all,
Trying to track down a cabinet part for Bally Transporter the Rescue. It’s the black plastic cup/baffle that the power cord slips through then out the back of the cabinet. Mine has broken mounting tabs and was hoping to find a replacement. If you know the part# or where to find one please hit me up.
Thank you.

The part number for the cup is 545-5122-00, but I haven’t been able to find one for sale anywhere. Seems like it should be easy to reproduce with a 3D printer, but no one does.

Not OEM, but an alternative is 01-10714 made for WPC machines.

Thanks for the info! Yea it does seem like a part that could be easily 3D printed.

On Removing Mylar For A System 11 (gonna cross post a little)

What are my chances here? You can see some areas that have lifted, and some insert separation, but also what is super concerning is the weird "waving" and bubbling of the mylar above the right sling. If definitely interferes with the ball travel. I'm prepared to do some solid color fills, repair the damage down to the wood, and 2PAC.

PXL_20210613_165110089 (resized).jpg

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PXL_20210613_165130796 (resized).jpg

PXL_20210613_165143877 (resized).jpg

PXL_20210613_165245885 (resized).jpg

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Pulled it with freeze spray, no real issues!

The left flipper on my Bad Cats isn't working. There is supposed to be a 200 volt, .01 mfd capacitor on the cabinet flipper switch that had a broken leg. Now I keep blowing the F6 fuse. Do I need this cap on the switch?