Looking for two of the Locking Cam Brackets shown in the upper drawing in the pic bvelow. Part numberr I need is: Wms. 01-9281, not the bracket in the lower drawing. Needed for Bad Cats, Jokerz! and possibly Taxi. Thanks.

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Besides switch check and making sure the switch under skirt can move freely make sure the game has the right number of balls! My new High Speed was kicking out 2 at a time and realized there were 4 in the game instead of 3.

I'll consider it, could you post a few pictures and tell me if the original design has some kind of issue?
Like if your's did break, could you provide some pictures of the spot of where it failed?
From the blurry pictures I've found it's quite a large part, so what's its overall length and width?
Lastly is there someone already working on reproducing it or has it already been done?

Unrelated to the upper playfield but still to the same game:
I've read that someone was reproducing the space station toy, is he still working on it or it was canceled?

Can't seem to find a picture of the real part, I've only manage to locate it in the Williams Part Catalog 16-9064-B.
If I can get a sample, I could make it at the same time of a batch of brackets, but as of now, I don't have any plan for a production of this kind of parts.

Williams BLUE Parts Catalog 16-9064-B (resized).png

All, I just picked up a Millionaire. It is having switch matrix issues. If I disconnect to the connectors that are for the switches (J8 and J10), a LOT of the switches (according to the MPU) still open and close very fast. I already replaced U38, which didn't change anything. anyone have any idea as to the possible culprit?

Cab you post a picture of your MPU board? I have a MPU board I am working on that has a lot of switch errors and it is because it has a ton of battery corrosion (white chalky residue) that needs to be dealt with.

Board looks good.

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Here is a quick video of what is happening. When I going into menu watch the switches activate.

Did you go into the switch edges test and see what pops into that? You still have the door connected, which is what looks like its freaking out.

What coils are firing? You could also have a short somewhere doing it all.

There switch connectors that usually are attached to J10 and J8 are disconnected, so that eliminates a switch wire short, or a switch being the issue at all. During the video I went into menu from the coin door to show the switches activating by themselves. Yes for switch edges. Lots of switches activating. Center (upper PF) kickout coil and shooter eject coil are firing.

I have been looking at the switch matrix components on the MPU board. GRUMPY any ideas?

With j-8 and j-10 disconnected, power on the machine and check each pin of j-10 at the cpu board. You should find a steady 5 vdc on each pin.

Ok GRUMPY the on J10 pins 1-3 were at 4.97 volts, but 5-9 were at zero volts. What does that tell us?

It tells us that SR11 might be cracked between pin 5 and 6. With the power off check the ohms of SR11 pin 1 to pin 6. It should be 560 ohms. Pin 1 has a white dot on the board.

It (SR11 pin 1 to 6) measured 560. In the process I managed to crack SRC6. Whoops.

That is awesome. I would cut off the battery holder to keep anyone from installing batteries since the board has NVRAM installed.

It was most likely cracked before. Replace it. Now for SR11, I would just replace it. When removed it may just fall apart in pieces. After you replace both, retest and let us know what you get.

Anyone interested in a GIzmo led smoother for GI for system 11 and data east? It’s to kill the strobe effect in the GI when the lights flicker on and off and makes them shut off more like incandescents. I’ve decided to put in something a little more programmable in my latest restoration so I can program all 4 GI strings separately to fade and flicker easier with my topper I’m working on. Asking $50 for it and it’s maybe been used a total of 3 hours max not being on more than 15 minutes at a time plugged into a brand new power supply from xpin so it’s still 100% good. I’d include shipping for free if within the US.

wait till i'm done .the mousin' around had all its original boards , displays etc . both low play machines , rusty balls would do this , I reckon

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A friend has a System 11a Fire! that has no sound. It has a 11581 sound board. Can I install it in my System 11b Bad Cats, also a 11581, to see if it is a sound board issue or a MPU issue? I don't know if they are populated the same.

Thanks in advance.

No background music and no switch sounds either? Can you post a picture of your MPU? Any battery alkaline damage?

Try reseating the small ribbon cable at the MPU and at the sound board to see if it makes a difference. Also check for a loose connection at all the speakers. I hope he already knows where the volume control is in the cabinet, which I would crank on it both directions with power off a few times to see if that helps.

Hey GRUMPY great news! Replacing SR11 and SRC6 did fix the switch matrix issue. Thanks for the help.

Now my flipper power supply fuse keeps blowing. Lol

Play Ball!

Thanks! Do you have a suggestion on where to start for the flipper power supply blowing fuses?

You will need to describe you issue in more detail.

The 5A fuse on the flipper power supply board blows instantly upon power up. Is that an issue with the main power supply board?

Flipper power supply doesn't include anything on the main power supply, it's all on its own. If the fuse blows immediately upon power up, the bridge rectifier on the flipper board is likely shorted. If it only blows when a game starts, it's probably a problem on the playfield.

Does anyone know if a sound board 11581-2003 will swap over to a 11581-2008??

Taking boards from a gameshow over to a transporter

Thanks y’all

I shouldn't type after midnight.

it was a baywatch joke... nothing serious in my com, and absolutly not being negative about your pin

(PS : search pinside for "imamaculate")

Ok thanks guys. Anyone know what BR it is? It and the C1 value are not listed in the schematics..

So does anyone know the story or reasoning as to why the backbox for big-guns is so big. Looking inside their is nothing actually using the extra space.
I know it looks awesome looking up at it during game play but seriously I fear for my flipper fingers if the head bolts ever fail.

BIG Guns BIG Cabinet. Just another way to draw attention to this game compared to the others.

Here you go.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MB354W
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nichicon/TVX2E101MCD/493-14442-ND/2539983

Its an old story. The back box is bigger than normal because thats the way Python drew the translight artwork. Big art, big backbox, Big Guns.

My wall of system 11s!

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Bump

Well Chosen_S I was able to use an 11b sound board in a 11a machine. With that said, 11c is the least flexible. Does it have similar plugs and locations for the sound roms? Maybe GRUMPY can weigh in too.

From what I was told when asking about this, the system 11c (gameshow) mpu would need it's sound section populated with all of the parts that were left out. That would in effect make it a 11b board and then would work for any 11b game. It didn't sound like a cost effective thing to do esp. if you send out boards for work. As mentioned, GRUMPY or ChrisHibler would be able to confirm this or add details with their experience and knowledge.

Want to thank GRUMPY and everyone who helped me get this thing going. Flippers are now working and game plays! Not much to look at but satisfying to get it working.

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I don't think this will work as dozer1 has stated.

What are you guys using to restore the original look to your System 11 (and also WPC) backbox hinges? In this particular case, Earthshaker and T2? I can't quite tell what the original black should look like.....semigloss? semiflat? matte black? I was figuring on using Rustoleum semigloss spray.

Sign me up!

Also, I'm trying to find a replacement for the broken plastic lip/ledge on the bottom of my Rollergames translite. Any idea what this is called or where to find one? My google-fu is failing me!

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4920

Nice choices! I recently discovered how good Space Station is. The music and sound is very similar to Pinbot. The lack of in lanes makes for a real challenge.

Millionaire owners - Can you please take a photo of your sound / speech board? The schematic calls for a Sound ROM chip at U20 on that board, but nothing is there except a blank socket. My game has zero speech. The ROM files on IPDB make no mention of a U20 chip.

Edit: It could be that the schematic is wrong and my sound board is just not working properly. Would be good to know either way.

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I've just checked in Visual PinMame and the game does have speech.
It does not have a U20 rom file.
Sound uses U4, U19, U21, U22 roms.

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Not my pic, but I know this was a working machine. Looks just like yours I believe.

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The sticker on your board is 555 - which lines up with Millionaire. Its a stock board, but I couldn't tell what has been done to it in the past!