Quoted from sullivcd40:What should I do with this?
I router the bottom edge off of the sides so the new bottom fits back in. Then I cut a piece of wood to staple back in place which holds the bottom in.
Quoted from sullivcd40:What should I do with this?
I router the bottom edge off of the sides so the new bottom fits back in. Then I cut a piece of wood to staple back in place which holds the bottom in.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I router the bottom edge off of the sides so the new bottom fits back in. Then I cut a piece of wood to staple back in place which holds the bottom in.
Thanks GRUMPY that makes sense. Do you use 1/2" mdf for the bottom?
Quoted from snyper2099:It's the Rottendog MPU. Why does it matter? You could install an original board in it and throw the Rottendog one in the trash but, this seems like a non issue to me if there are no other problems.
That's also what I tried to tell him with my post.
Apparently he didn't got the point.
Quoted from sullivcd40:What should I do with this? The right side of the bottom cabinet was detached when I got it and had pulled the plywood below the groove from the side cabinet with it. I was able to get the bottom off without ripping the left side plywood below the groove. It seems like it would be easier to remove the plywood below the groove from the whole thing.
[quoted image]
If ya dont have a router its easy enough to use a thin chisel or screw driver to remove acouple layers of the plywood.
B724A8AD-CA28-41B1-80DA-A7DEF865D364 (resized).jpegC00F1210-9491-402A-B990-DDC01344A3F9 (resized).jpegI have a Grand Lizard that has an issue.
The 5000 point bonus lamp is always on. In attract mode it dims a little but never off. I changed the resistors on the 4k, 5k and 6k lamps without success. What else causes controlled lamps to stay lit?
Quoted from Phesson:I have a Grand Lizard that has an issue.
The 5000 point bonus lamp is always on. In attract mode it dims a little but never off. I changed the resistors on the 4k, 5k and 6k lamps without success. What else causes controlled lamps to stay lit?
There is a path to ground where there shouldn’t be… bad socket? Defective bulb? Bad diode?
You said you replaced the resistors? What exactly did you replace again? There are no resistors on the feature lamps under the PF. Also, can you use a meter? Knowing and using one can help you find the problem.
One other thing you can do, momentarily move the grounding wire (red wires for those lamps) to another socket nearby and see if it always stays on too. That would help eliminate the socket or diode as being the problem, even if you don’t know how to test using a meter (or don’t have one).
Quoted from snyper2099:You said you replaced the resistors? What exactly did you replace again?
I shouldn’t work and pinside forum at the same time
I replaced the 1N4004 diodes.
I do have a meter but was unsure what to test. I’ll unsolder the ground, red wires, and move them to another socket and see if it stays on.
Quoted from snyper2099:momentarily move the grounding wire (red wires for those lamps) to another socket nearby and see if it always stays on too
I moved the ground wires to another socket and the lamp did not stay on but flashed on and off.
Quoted from snyper2099:That means you either have a bad diode or a bad socket @ 5K lamp
New diode is in with no change. The 5K socket looks to be press fitted to a disc with the other bonus lights. Is there a specific socket for this application or can it be fixed?
6E541B17-073F-4E76-8EE5-0396B1F657C2 (resized).jpegI would remove the plate and investigate the other side too. Remove the bulb and try another? Remove bulb and use continuity on meter to determine if one of the tabs is touching where it should not? LOOK INSIDE the socket and confirm there is not some random piece of metal crud in the bottom? Is the diode installed the correct way? Is there a rouge splash of solder somewhere? Looks like you are using incandescent... they do short out and go bad.
I'm guessing one of those fiber insulator things partially broke. If true you could perhaps improvise your own [plastic?] insulator and superglue it in place. It is going to be VERY frustrating to try and press another socket into that plate... would likely need to de-solder and remove the entire thing, get it on a bench, find new parts to press (or sledgehammer) the socket, ect.
If the socket on the plate is in fact compromised, before going toward the "fix it like it was route", you could just grab a standard size spare under playfield socket and install it on the side with the bulb bent at a 45-90 degree angle and move/extend the wires to illuminate the 5K insert. That would be a last resort though and you may even have to cut away part of that metal plate to get it to fit.
If you could post some better pictures of the actual 5K lamp socket, that may help.
If that plate is flaky at all with the other lamps I'd just replace it entirely with discrete sockets. If not do what snyper2099 says with an extra socket.
Quoted from desertT1:The spring steel hinge on my left ramp entrance broke, and probably had been broken since I got the game because it had a section of mylar over it holding the two pieces together, and I didn’t put it there. So I took the parts off, traced a new piece on spring steel, and made a new one.
Putting it all back together it isn’t dropping. I also replaced the “pin crank stud” that the ramp rides on because the old one was almost worn through.
Problem is, not it’s not dropping on its own. I made sure the path for the stud is smooth and the ramp flap isn’t touching anything, so it’s not stuck open.
The spring on the coil that raises the ramp seems very weak, like I wouldn’t expect it to be doing much of anything to help push the mech back to the lowered position. If I press the release latch from the top, the ramp flap just sits there.
The stud is also not stuck in the slot of the side wall it pokes through, I already messed with that a little.
One curious thing is it seems like the arm that swings back and forth to lift and lower the ramp goes pretty far forward. It’s almost straight up which would allow it to just sit there when the release latch activates. I didn’t do anything with that arm though when I fixed the flap, and it was working fine when the flap was broken. Just another observation.
[quoted image]
Just did a re-build and replace the pin as you described, but had a similar issue where the ramp would not fall on it's own right away. The old operator had replaced that pin with a bolt, and the edges of the groove it slid on were very rough, so I assumed that was the issue. I used a dremel and smoothed out the rough edges, but still had an issue with the ramp. I went back and looked at the book and figured out the spring I had on the coil was not the correct one, and was too light. Luckily, I had a new one in my supply box and as soon as I replaced that weak spring, the ramp worked flawlessly. I think a lot of those springs just get mixed up with the others used in the pin, and it is indeed a bit heavier.
Quoted from desertT1:There is some corrosion under the right side battery. That will need to be handled as well as some remote or lithium batteries.
I removed the battery holder and cleaned it up with vinegar and alcohol the best I could. The right side of R31 still doesn't look great though.
20230217_110157 (resized).jpgI'd go a step further and remove those 8 resistors, C32 & C33 capacitors, and remove and clean the inductor, L1. I'd then remove all the alkaline damage from the board, and install fresh capacitors and resistors, and reinstall the cleaned inductor.
Quoted from snyper2099:sandpaper+wirebrush that DARK area... then more sandpaper and more wirebrush @ resistors. You will get it!
I took a wirebrush and sandpaper to the dark area pointed out. Amazing how much blue stuff came off. I also reached out to dumbass about a replacement wpc cpu board but he's pretty booked up. Another buddy used K's arcade but they closed up shop. I found Rocket cpu wpc replacement board by Pinsound that are reasonable. Has anyone used those?
20230219_105000 (resized).jpg
Quoted from MisterScappy:I'd go a step further and remove those 8 resistors, C32 & C33 capacitors, and remove and clean the inductor, L1. I'd then remove all the alkaline damage from the board, and install fresh capacitors and resistors, and reinstall the cleaned inductor.
Thanks for the suggestions, I will do those things as well.
Quoted from sullivcd40:I also reached out to dumbass about a replacement wpc cpu board
Why?
If it works ok why buy a new one?
Waste of money. Use the existing one.
rd
Got a Cyclone in a trade yesterday and when I lifted the playfield I saw this:
E181EB1B-B7E0-4835-9ACA-5D3C5236A64B (resized).jpegE7BDE2C1-95C1-42EA-ADC6-5FD697A74606 (resized).jpeg
There are wiring routes and wire colors written on the playfield, looks maybe from the factory?
I saw one other post about a Cyclone with a similar playfield gray color and markings but never saw if it was considered a prototype or not. Serial number on this one is 564 144145 which is not an early number per IPDB.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Got a Cyclone in a trade yesterday and when I lifted the playfield I saw this:
[quoted image][quoted image]
There are wiring routes and wire colors written on the playfield, looks maybe from the factory?
I saw one other post about a Cyclone with a similar playfield gray color and markings but never saw if it was considered a prototype or not. Serial number on this one is 564 144145 which is not an early number per IPDB.
My Space Station has something similar… but even more extensive markings. Would love to know if there’s something
more to this.
Quoted from rotordave:Why?
If it works ok why buy a new one?
Waste of money. Use the existing one.
rd
I haven't tested it yet, I was just checking price and availability. I'll do my best to get this one working.
Picked up a Space Station for my father-in-law. I had only played this game once or twice. It is freaking AMAZING! Such a fun machine. I wish it were at my house. This one is nicely restored with LED's, a super nice playfield, shaker motor, and black powder coating. Thanks Daly124 !!
Chris
IMG_7968 (resized).jpgIMG_7969 (resized).jpgIMG_7973 (resized).jpgIMG_7970 (resized).jpgIMG_7971 (resized).jpgIMG_7975 (resized).jpg
For those that are interested, here’s a video my lineup for the 2023 System11 World Championships!!
Held on March 4th in New Zealand. Come on down and battle it out!
It’s a Facebook link. Apologies if you don’t use FB.
rd
Quoted from rotordave:Well, that’s a great start.
When you turn it on (after snipping off the battery box - don’t even need to put a new one on at this stage) the three LEDs up the left side of the CPU board do certain things. If they do that ok, then that board is ok. (See link below)
Often with WPC, the ribbon cables can get tarnished connections, often reseating them on and off a few times will solve the issues. Be sure not to miss a row of pins, very easy to do.
rd
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Power-On_LEDs_and_Sound_Tones_.28Bongs.29
I got the bottom cabinet installed and the boards back in place. Everything works according to the leds! I ordered a remote battery holder and will install when it arrives, just over 2 bucks from Amazon. I'm tearing down the topside now and a bunch of the bolts and screws are damaged. Is there a good place to buy these in bulk?
20230222_140720 (resized).jpgQuoted from sullivcd40:Is there a good place to buy these in bulk?
Pinball Life is the cheapest place to get hardware. I use their perfect play silicone as well.
rd
...I'm a pinball noob I have a Williams Fire. I'm getting errors Adjust switch 19 and 60
How do I fix these?
Quoted from coinsnpins:...I'm a pinball noob I have a Williams Fire. I'm getting errors Adjust switch 19 and 60
How do I fix these?
Go to switch edge test and see if they register when you physically get them to make contact. If so, they just haven't been hit in gameplay in a while. If not, adjust so they make contact when the arm is pressed down. If it's still not working, report back.
My Rollergames started having an issue this morning where the W in "WAR" would not light or make any sound after knocking the target down, A and R would light and the lock would turn on, but not always right away. I had a similar issue with all 3 targets at 1 point and turned out to be a loose molex on the opto board. I figured I would start there so I removed connector and put backfirmly into place(it did not seem loose). Started up and now not only does the letter not light but knocking down all 3 targets does not trigger the lock. I started by cleaning the u opto with a tiny bit of alcohol on a qtip, no help. reading for all 3 letters on the test nodes of the board is the same at 10.1, in switch test mode the W target does not register. all of the switches in the same row/column are functioning fine. also switch does not appear as an error on start up, any and all help and advice appreciated, my wife's favorite machine down, so pressure is on
20230225_154928 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230225_160648_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230225_160810_Gallery (resized).jpgQuoted from sparrowsinfrost:all of the switches in the same row/column are functioning fine.
That would be the first thing I’d tell you to do … and you did it already.
So that 99% narrows down the issue to the drop target board.
Take the opto board off the target bank - put the pin in switch test - then get a small blade screwdriver and slide it between the optos.
Every one should beep as you break the beam.
If you’re concerned about the plugs, put your meter in continuity test, and put the leads on each end of the circuit as per the arrows in the picture below. One in the top of the plug, one on the connection on the board. That will confirm signal is getting off the board into the plug.
If that tests ok, and your W opto still isn’t registering, and you’ve crossed all the other items off the check list already, and all the soldering on the board is ok (reflow the joints) …odds on the opto is stuffed. They don’t last forever unfortunately.
Easy enough to get a new one and solder it in.
rd
91BB8D81-6C81-4C35-86DF-37A74AE26853 (resized).jpegIt looks like your connector is a little loose on the right side. I had this exact issue with Police Force.
Quoted from rotordave:If that tests ok, and your W opto still isn’t registering, and you’ve crossed all the other items off the check list already, and all the soldering on the board is ok (reflow the joints) …odds on the opto is stuffed. They don’t last forever unfortunately.
Thanks RD, I was kinda thinking it's pointing towards the opto, I found one on pinball life, and am going to try and bundle with a bigger order with items I need for Taxi.
Quoted from sullivcd40:It looks like your connector is a little loose on the right side. I had this exact issue with Police Force.
So I have noodles with the connector quite a bit, I have repinned the old 70s bally connector before but not sure what to do with this type of connector, I mean I would love that this is the issue, how did you fix it on your police force? BTW can't wait until that's in the. collection!
Quoted from sparrowsinfrost:Thanks RD, I was kinda thinking it's pointing towards the opto, I found one on pinball life, and am going to try and bundle with a bigger order with items I need for Taxi.
So I have noodles with the connector quite a bit, I have repinned the old 70s bally connector before but not sure what to do with this type of connector, I mean I would love that this is the issue, how did you fix it on your police force? BTW can't wait until that's in the. collection!
I deleted my post because I went back and read that your w was registering. When my connector was loose none of the 3 drops would register. I didn't want to throw you off. I would follow rd's lead on this one.
Quoted from sullivcd40:I deleted my post because I went back and read that your w was registering.
It waaaas registering, then it wasn't, but yeah, the A and R are registering and I've had the same prob where none register, it was a loose molex like you said, I always am loving easy fixes!
Quoted from sparrowsinfrost:It waaaas registering, then it wasn't, but yeah, the A and R are registering and I've had the same prob where none register, it was a loose molex like you said, I always am loving easy fixes!
Okay good, you found the issue. I would repin that connector to make sure it stays snug going forward.
Quoted from sullivcd40:Okay good, you found the issue. I would repin that connector to make sure it stays snug going forward.
Yeah that connector is hardly “loose”
Should make contact even when it’s half off.
rd
Quoted from rotordave:Yeah that connector is hardly “loose”
Should make contact even when it’s half off.
rd
if the connector was bad, then my readings on the nodes I think would be off, the opto looks pretty ez to remove with the 2 washer clips(middle clip is missing), does seem like maybe opto was going out before and now maybe it's out out, or "stuffed" as you put it
Quoted from sparrowsinfrost:if the connector was bad, then my readings on the nodes I think would be off, the opto looks pretty ez to remove with the 2 washer clips(middle clip is missing), does seem like maybe opto was going out before and now maybe it's out out, or "stuffed" as you put it
Yeah that would be my feeling. Stuffed mate! Or flaky.
They can be intermittent.
rd
as far as I can tell this guy looks like the replacement opto for drop target, I'm really good at getting the wrong part! anyone confirm this?:
https://www.pinballlife.com/ir-opto-sensor-high-sensitivity-4-leg.html
Quoted from rotordave:and all the soldering on the board is ok (reflow the joints) …odds on the opto is stuffed. They don’t last forever unfortunately.
So update I put machine in switch test, then used a popsicle stick to slightly wiggle the opto. this caused switch to engage, even to point where I can play for a bit before it fizzles out. so seems like reflowing those 4 joints will be next step, or should I just replace the opto anyways, getting these e clips off is pretty awkward so hoping to just do this once
Quoted from sparrowsinfrost:So update I put machine in switch test, then used a popsicle stick to slightly wiggle the opto. this caused switch to engage, even to point where I can play for a bit before it fizzles out. so seems like reflowing those 4 joints will be next step, or should I just replace the opto anyways, getting these e clips off is pretty awkward so hoping to just do this once
Sounds like the solder joints are cracked/tired. Give resoldering them a go.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained …
rd
Quoted from rotordave:Sounds like the solder joints are cracked/tired. Give resoldering them a go.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained …
Basically your saying nothing has ever "un-stuffed" itself thanks for the help troubleshooting this RD
Quoted from sparrowsinfrost:Basically your saying nothing has ever "un-stuffed" itself thanks for the help troubleshooting this RD
Things are either stuffed (its farked)
Or they’re not stuffed (it’s ok)
However in your case it might be intermittently stuffed. Lol. Due to shitty solder joints.
rd
Quoted from sullivcd40:Is there a chart for coil resistances somewhere? I can't find what they should be in my PZ manual.
Will this help?
https://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html
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