Quoted from nephasth:Touch PA05 (orange, not white according to the pinout pic you provided) to Ground.
This should work , but nothing happens when I touch the wires. Hmmm
Quoted from nephasth:Touch PA05 (orange, not white according to the pinout pic you provided) to Ground.
This should work , but nothing happens when I touch the wires. Hmmm
Joined the club today with a United Taurus! Doesn't play, but it's (mostly) complete, and it was a hundred bucks, so I'm happy. Any kind of solid state bowler is tough to come by in this region and I've been waiting for years for one of this vintage to surface. The drive to Astoria to pick it up was nice, and it fit in my Transit Connect with less trouble than I was expecting. These things really aren't as heavy or cumbersome as I'd expected, teardown and setup are readily done with two people.
DSC_1486 (resized).JPG
DSC_1491 (resized).JPG
DSC_1493 (resized).JPG
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/darts_and_foosball/25-2001-00
Minimum order is $100, so you will need to add to your list.
While you might find a used assembly, it may be quicker to build one. Try T&T amusements Todd may have parts for these.
Quoted from stumptown:I need to hunt up a puck rebound assembly. If anyone has one of these lying around I'd love to take it off your hands...
The rubber you can get.
What's the width and depth of the assembly?
I might have one from a 50s bowler that can be adapted..
The rebound assembly takes a beating, so if you fabricate one, be sure to make it out of hardwood, not pine. And fasten it to a solid wall; you might consider bracing the current back stop with more wood, or even a steel plate. The more solid the rebound wall is, the better the puck returns. A sluggish rebound will typically lose the puck in the pin switch area, causing problems with potential damage to the rollover switches and/or pins themselves when someone tries to fish the puck out of that area.
You will find the more solid the back wall, the more efficient the rebound becomes.
Quoted from ramegoom:The rebound assembly takes a beating, so if you fabricate one, be sure to make it out of hardwood, not pine. And fasten it to a solid wall; you might consider bracing the current back stop with more wood, or even a steel plate. The more solid the rebound wall is, the better the puck returns. A sluggish rebound will typically lose the puck in the pin switch area, causing problems with potential damage to the rollover switches and/or pins themselves when someone tries to fish the puck out of that area.
You will find the more solid the back wall, the more efficient the rebound becomes.
Good advice, I'm currently going through a 1962 United Embassy. I'll be sure to secure that on my machine.
I'm documenting some of the steps in my journey - below is the playlist link on YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLKBzlsEWMlPKNVRIHPr3cjAtAqjoL4dCK
Quoted from ramegoom:https://na.suzohapp.com/products/darts_and_foosball/25-2001-00
Minimum order is $100, so you will need to add to your list.
There are a few people selling complete rubber sets on eBay too including the side rail parts, figure I'll source there just because SuzoHapp doesn't seem to care too much for dealing with small fry Unfortunately I need the entire rear rebound assembly, wood and brackets and all.
Quoted from Mopar:The rubber you can get.
What's the width and depth of the assembly?
I might have one from a 50s bowler that can be adapted..
Thanks! I'll take a measurement next time I'm in the shop.
Quoted from ramegoom:The rebound assembly takes a beating, so if you fabricate one, be sure to make it out of hardwood, not pine. And fasten it to a solid wall; you might consider bracing the current back stop with more wood, or even a steel plate. The more solid the rebound wall is, the better the puck returns. A sluggish rebound will typically lose the puck in the pin switch area, causing problems with potential damage to the rollover switches and/or pins themselves when someone tries to fish the puck out of that area.
You will find the more solid the back wall, the more efficient the rebound becomes.
Now you've got me wanting to just make my own even if I find an original! Thanks for the pointers.
Quoted from Mopar:The rubber you can get.
What's the width and depth of the assembly?
I might have one from a 50s bowler that can be adapted..
Measured it today, seems to call for a 23" wide part.
About to join the club with a pair of 13ft Model S Skee Ball machines. They are in pretty good shape, except the yellow plastic rails, which are cracked or broken (missing chunks). I checked with Baytek parts, and they do not stock rails from this machine -- long sold out. Anyone else find a suitable replacement, solution, or alternate option to restore these, or are they simply unobtainum?
Thoughts and suggestions welcome - I was looking into whether something like plastifix might work to fill gaps, cracks, etc. Anyone tried this and get good results?
Quoted from demaximis:...Model S Skee Ball machines ... yellow plastic rails ...
Just an idea ... I haven't tried it, but I wonder if wire duct cover would do to get started? Example: http://www.automationdirect.com/pn/COV-60W-1
Quoted from stumptown:Measured it today, seems to call for a 23" wide part.
Sorry, checked in multiple places, no luck..
Shouldn't be too hard to make one. Might have to pick up
some 1/4" angle, or contact cement the rebound rubber on..
Quoted from LateCenturyMods:Just an idea ... I haven't tried it, but I wonder if wire duct cover would do to get started? Example: http://www.automationdirect.com/pn/COV-60W-1
Interesting... when mine arrives, I will take exact measurements and compare. Any other thoughts/options from others who went down this road?
Thanks!
Quoted from Mopar:Sorry, checked in multiple places, no luck..
Shouldn't be too hard to make one. Might have to pick up
some 1/4" angle, or contact cement the rebound rubber on..
Thanks for checking! I haven't had any luck finding one so I'm thinking fabrication it is.
Quoted from bbriese:Restoration complete
That machine is gorgeous.
I did not know that a skeeball came with flash. That is my favorite feature on a shuffle bowler.
NICE WORK!
I did not know that a skeeball came with flash. That is my favorite feature on a shuffle bowler.
NICE WORK!
Thanks!! It's a 1967 Chicago Coin Playtime. The flash feature is more random than with a bowler and a party hit.
Shout out to cad-kid for the tip on a rebound bar on eBay! Last part I needed to get started on this project
Quoted from stumptown:For anyone else who may find themselves needing this part, here are some pics of the details of how it's constructed.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Congrats on getting the part
Quoted from bbriese:Restoration complete and she's is a beauty. Can't fit anything with a long lane in my basement so had to settle for this, but love the flash feature. Skeeball is a great addition to our game room.[quoted image][quoted image]
I've always wanted a skeeball, but don't really have the room, plus it's a one-player game. I had never seen a multi-player skee ball. I think if I ever found one of these as a nice project, I would have to figure out a way to make it fit. What are the dimensions on this?
One player works great on Skeeball because each game goes so quickly. The player has the pressure of beating the high score with all the competitors staring at their back. But then a good game lets you show off and intimidate the other players. Pressure can flip back and forth, it's fun! Plus people can roll a game while waiting for their turn on pinball. There is nothing like the sound of the ball rolling on the lane. Downside: they are enormous. But I have a smaller one from the 1940s, that helps.
Don
Quoted from Oldgoat:I had never seen a multi-player skee ball. I think if I ever found one of these as a nice project, I would have to figure out a way to make it fit.
Genco, Chicago Coin and Williams all made multi-player skee balls. Maybe other manufacturers as well. They are very cool but seem very tall.
Quoted from Oldgoat:I've always wanted a skeeball, but don't really have the room, plus it's a one-player game. I had never seen a multi-player skee ball. I think if I ever found one of these as a nice project, I would have to figure out a way to make it fit. What are the dimensions on this?
I thought the same at first but it's fine being a 1 player. I put a dry erase board next to mine where we keep scores. Usually best of three games. Put a buck or two on it and it becomes quite the fun drunken competition.
I also have carnival type stuffed animals on mine. I anyone beats my high score, they get a prize. (Hasn't happened yet )
Quoted from AlexF:Genco, Chicago Coin and Williams all made multi-player skee balls. Maybe other manufacturers as well. They are very cool but seem very tall.
Height is not an issue for me...it's the footprint (length and width). I did not realize that others made these multi-player games. I've never seen one...I know if anyone ever sees these it has to be you, AlexF
Quoted from gliebig:I thought the same at first but it's fine being a 1 player. I put a dry erase board next to mine where we keep scores. Usually best of three games. Put a buck or two on it and it becomes quite the fun drunken competition.
I also have carnival type stuffed animals on mine. I anyone beats my high score, they get a prize. (Hasn't happened yet )
Maybe but I just like having the multi-player games, seems like it's more competitive when you are alternating shots
Bally also made an EM two player Skee Ball. I had a couple of them and had one set up in the
game room, and at the next party, a bunch complained that they wanted the old Tabagoon
flip number one back, so I parted with both Ballys. Still have a Genco two player "Official
Skill Roll" that I still need to go through..
Quoted from Mopar:Tabagoon
flip number
I'll bite and show my ignorance, what's that?
Actually, the body style and length of the machine was different, but I'm pretty sure right from 1909
when Skee Ball first started, the mechanics basically stayed the same right to 1974 when the last of
the mechanical Skee Balls were produced.
I have to say, I do like the vintage all mechanical 14 ft. flip number machines the best..
Quoted from Oldgoat:I've always wanted a skeeball, but don't really have the room, plus it's a one-player game. I had never seen a multi-player skee ball. I think if I ever found one of these as a nice project, I would have to figure out a way to make it fit. What are the dimensions on this?
This one is 80" tall x 120" long x 27" wide. Deceptively difficult to master even with the short lane.
Quoted from bbriese:This one is 80" tall x 120" long x 27" wide. Deceptively difficult to master even with the short lane.
Thanks. I'm thinking I might be able to work with those dimensions.
Quoted from marspinball:Anyone know what the replacement florescent tube size for strikemaster?[quoted image]
Let uncle Google do the work. In your pic of the catalog it shows a 24-6597-5 as the part number. Put that into a google search and get this 1 (resized).JPG (and others showed up also). Click on the Marco link and get to this page
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You can buy from Marco or you can get a F14T12/CW at a local store
Have you seen the Puttskee? I take it to tailgates, always a hit.
https://theputtskee.com/
Quoted from jeffk:Have you seen the Puttskee? I take it to tailgates, always a hit.
https://theputtskee.com/[quoted image]
No I haven't, but I like it
Quoted from Oldgoat:Maybe but I just like having the multi-player games, seems like it's more competitive when you are alternating shots
Here's a pic of my 4 Player model S Skee Ball {1990} that I restored. I believe they made less than a hundred of these, tough to find. You throw 3 balls per round for 3 rounds.
Having an issue with my Skeeball II lightning. It keeps saying system reset and restarts! Nothing in manual and online when I searched. Do I need a new power supply? Anyone have this issue.
Hi. I’m trying to help a local non-profit setup two older machines to allow them to take money. One is an older skee ball machine and one is a Super Shot basketball machine. Below are pictures of the model and serial number. I need the complete coin mech unit for the skee ball I’m guessing. The super shot only has a metal plate where the coin door used to be. If you could point me in the right direction that would be great!
Thanks,
Joe
I found these coin units on ebay but not sure if they are the right ones?
ebay.com link: Used Skee Ball Full Coin Mechanism Unit with switch Slide Bracket Coin Chute
ebay.com link: Used Skee Ball Coin Mechanism Unit includes Switch Slide Bracket
ebay.com link: Used Skee Ball Full Coin Mechanism Unit with switch Slide Bracket
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Holy hell, are those things over priced.
All three of the those ebay auctions appear to be the same mech holder, just the first has the additional bracket (not needed). The first one also has the coin "funnel" on top, which might be critical for reliable operation.
Post a pic of the super shot machine coin area.
Story time! Once upon a time my parents owned and operated an amusement park. It was the family livelihood from the time I was 2 until the time I was 12 (rought childhood, I know). The one set of arcade machines that never changed the entire time they ran the park, was the Skee Ball machines. We had 3 or 6 maybe? In any case, these Skee Ball machines played attract music randomly, everytime someone played a game it would go through the same music, and there was always the deep heavy thrum of someone rolling a ball. I can still hear it in my sleep. It drove my dad almost insane. After 10 years, the park closed down and my parents moved us across the country to open up a gym and start a new life. They built the gym in a strip mall, and the strip mall had a restaurant right next door... with arcade games! What was right on the other side of the wall next to my dad's office? That's right... a Skee Ball machine... You could hear every... damn... game through the wall. The horror.
Quoted from Jaymach1:Here's a pic of my 4 Player model S Skee Ball {1990} that I restored. I believe they made less than a hundred of these, tough to find. You throw 3 balls per round for 3 rounds.[quoted image][quoted image]
That's what I originally wanted but gave up the search.
Quoted from gliebig:That's what I originally wanted but gave up the search.
I won't give up until I find one of the old multi-player/multi-game ones in project condition. (Unless, of course, some other shiny object catches my eye and takes up the space!)
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