Hi, I'm new to this group, but not to coin op. After reading the Bowler/Skee Ball
topic, I thought I'd join. I've had/have many of the United Skee Ball puck machines
(and Williams Kick-a-Poo), but never had one with light scoring. That's one nice looking
vintage machine..
Last year I traded a Comet (like in the ad) for a Playtime Ball Bowler, and I'd say it's
worth all of the $500.00 To my knowledge, it's the only one of the Skee Ball Shuffles
that scored up to 6X its hole value (5X most common)..
Here's a couple pics of shuffle/skee ball. The United puck bowler is the first machine
that got me started (early 90s) so have to keep that set up. The mechanical Skee-Ball
is from a Family Amusement Park that I went to as a kid. When I restored it, Ski Ball
(now out of business "ouch" 1909 - 2016) only carried the red cork..
I have a few more machines set up that fits this topic. I'll see about taking some snaps.
(T)

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Yeah, on the Ski Ball Company. Just last month a Friend called and asked where to get
the cork for Skee Ball. I gave him the number for the Philadelphia Toboggan Coin Company
and told him to ask for Barry just to have him call back and say that they were gone, Barry
and all. The cork and many other valuable parts went into the dumpster. That kinda stunned me..
Last year, the last time I talked with Barry, he was then working only part time being a sales
rep. Barry start working for Skee Ball in 1974. That was the last year of the mechanical Skee Balls.
As a young man, he remembered the last of the mechanicals produced. Back (in the 90s) when I first
called mentioning I was restoring a mechanical Skee Ball, they said Oh, you want to talk with Barry. I
had many questions (mostly historical) I asked him, which he pleasantly answered. Very interesting
conversation to me. Anyways, I'm sure they're alternatives, but buying Skee Ball stuff might not
be as easy..
On the Shuffle surfaces, I replaced formica on Ball Bowlers, but never had to on any Puck Bowlers..
Before good size gameroom gatherings, I broom the old shuffle Wax (dust) to the front, and vacuum
it off. Then spray Lemon Pledge on the surface and wipe down cleanly. That alone will make the surface
pretty slick. Then I add the Shuffle Wax to only the front 3 or 4 feet of the formica. As you play, the wax
will automatically move to the rear near the pins..
Here's a couple more pics I had loaded that I think go with this thread. The MBA is 28 ft. During gatherings,
they both get played more than not. I still have a few shuffles to take pics of that surely will fit here.. (T)

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Your welcome on the Pledge. Way back, I actually discovered it by using it to
wipe off spray silicone that I didn't care for on the shuffle board. I use it on many
things (not playfields) like plungers or anything that I would like to have slick..
On Skee Ball, Last year while restoring another old time machine, Skee Ball did
once again have the green cork, so that machine looks more as it should (to me anyways).
I have to look back to see who it was, but last month shortly after learning about
Skee Ball being bought out, I did a little digging and talked with someone that informed
me that Skee Ball had all it's cork imported in, and this guy himself had some cork,
so I'm sure there will still be a U.S. supplier, but Skee Ball was a one stop shop for
those machines. Sad just knowing they've been in business for so long. Mine will
always be set up..
Here's other shuffles I have set up. The Drop-a-Ball has a different color pattern
than another I saw in a different thread, but for sure original. Right from the old
Vendor's storage. The World Series (I believe the following year "1960") is a step
up from the Drop-a-Ball. It has light animation men running the bases. The Derby
Roll is actually fun to play when playing against someone..
I'll load up a couple more pics later. No Smart Phone. Shoot them from a Cannon,
then load them in the Lab Top. I guess I should catch up with the times, but the
flip flop package is free.. (T)

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Say G, I have pretty good news. Sunday night I did some searching and found a promising
e-mail address and shot them a couple of lines. Yesterday there was a return e-mail from
Penn@SkeeBall with a phone number. I called and talked with Ryan and he said that this is the
company that bought Skee Ball and many things were thrown out, but anything Skee Ball
related were never tossed. They have the cork (green, black, and grey) the pockets, the
pocket buttons, balls, and I guess everything else. Sounds like not much changed but
management. Some of the information I first received was incorrect. For whom has interest,
the number is (920)822-3951 That phone call made me feel much better. Skee Ball is Still alive!
Here's a couple more machines I have set up. The 5th Inning is probably the most unique
of the Skee Ball Shuffles, but Kick-a-Poo, (which is the less attractive of them all) I'd say is
the better player. I have one set up elsewhere. I'll see about taking a pic..
The Bally "All the Way" is if not my rarest machine, certainly my rarest Shuffle. How Bally
came up with the rule set on this is something. I'll see about someone making a
video while I'm playing and explaining it. It would take a while to explain written out..
Yeah, some of these machines are tough to get in homes. When I built my house, I put
in a 6' double walkout door knowing I wanted a Pool Table, Pin Pong Table, and Shuffleboard.
Within' a couple years, no room for the ping pong, then a few years after that (after the house
was paid off), I had to add on.

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I'm almost positive the newer Skee Balls have cork on their lanes also.
I recently learned that the cork can still be purchased through Penn@ Skee Ball.
The number is (920)822-3951 I talked with Ryan.
The first time I replaced the cork on a Skee Ball (it was a mechanical), I used
the glue used for putting lynolium down on floors, which worked perfect because unlike
Contact Cement, the cork is still moveable for fine adjustment when first placed
down, but later, I found out that when the ball traveled toward the end and up the
ramp, it didn't launch properly. Kinda like too flat. So I had to (as careful as I could)
lift the last couple feet or so of the cork (from the very end to a few inches before
the beginning of the ramp) and heat and scrap off the flooring glue and apply Contact Cement.
Replacing the flooring glue with the thinner Contact Cement did the trick.
So the next Skee Ball lane that I did, I sized up the cork, marked the bottom of the cork toward the
end where I wanted to start putting the Contact Cement, and also marked the bare lane section.
I put down the Contact Cement to both surfaces and while that was drying (dry to the touch)
I applied the flooring glue (with a toothed trowel) on the rest of the lane's bare surface. When the
Contact Cement was dry to the touch, I lined up the front of the cork with the front of the lane (a friend
helped) and laid it carefully down with out letting the contact cement portions touching until it was perfectly where
it should be up to that point, then laid down the last couple ft. or so where the Contact Cement was..
The cork sent was 3 or 4" longer than needed which I cut off at the ramp end after the glues had dried..
Sorry if it took time explaining this, but wanted to point out the problem I had using the flooring glue at the
ramp's end, and not the Contact Cement. The old original cork on the machines that I restored was still
applied to the surface pretty strongly, so I used a heat gun and putty knife to help take off the old cork
and glue.. (T)

That's a nice original 14' Bally ABC..

I can ad to this thread. A couple years ago, a Friend asked about putting some machines in his Restaurant, so
from front to tail, I restored an United Ball Bowler. Dozens of hours put into this machine. When first started,
it was 100% black with a square pin hood and bad backglass. Put it back to original. The little girl in the pic
was the first to play the machine (of course for free)..
After a few months, the balls kept up missing (tourist town), so replaced it with a Williams Kick-a-Poo.
Also restored a mechanical Skee Ball. The Skee Ball gets played the most..

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Nice EM Skee Ball. Great Shape too..
I had a couple by Bally, Bank-a-Ball I believe, but only a 2 Player.
Still have a 2 Player "Official Skill Ball" by Genco that I need to go through..

Yes, that Bally is in nice shape and worth all that he's asking..
I actually have quite a few Ball Bowlers including both 11 and 14' Ballys
and not familiar with that small grey box in the front of the machine near
the coin door. Is that a start up (free play) switch?
Oh yes, that Bally is a responsive scorer also.. (T)

And if not, I had one made for a Top Hat and Fleetwood, and my Graphic Designer still
has it on file, but it'll be like $50.00 (that's without me making a penny)
Your Top Hat must be a 16 footer. If you made a 4' center section, (if you have the space),
it would seem as though the alley is another 10' longer.. (T)

You'd be surprised what difference just a 4' section would make..
I still have 3 Chicago Coin Goose Head (like Top Hat) Ball Bowlers, and need the extension
that I have. It takes time, but I had built extensions. If you do built an extension, one thing
you want to keep in mind. Before contact cementing the formica, you'll want to contact cement
1/8" thick cork to the plywood first, and then the formica to the cork. Without the cork, the
ball will change from a smooth roll, to a roaring rumble once it reaches the extension.
16 foot's not bad, but once you go through the Bowler and get it working properly, I'm
pretty sure you'll want it longer.. (T)

I have many machines set up now, but years back when it was only the ping pong, pool table,
and old United Puck Bowler, I think we had at least as much fun..

I use Mean Green (or any other liquid cleaner) and rub with a small piece of Scotch Brite (the green pad).
I'm sure Magic Eraser would work, but the Scotch Brite's a bit more aggressive, and being formica, there's
no problem handling it. On the side, I still have Ball Bowlers in places, and without using Scotch Brite, I'd
be spending much more time cleaning with a much more tiring arm.. (T)

Yeah Steve, like you know, replace the padding and then we can adjust
for the scoring. It's how far each pocket's rod travels when the ball travels
through it's shoot that determines the scoring. Pretty simple, yet unique..
Last year, Skee Ball (now known as Penn Skee Ball) has 3" composite balls
which work perfectly fine and well worth the $50.00 (maybe a bit more now)..
Some have reconditioned (or so called) wooden balls which come with nicks and
for crazy money. Not the best way to go.. Penn Skee Ball # is (920)822-3951
I haven't dealt with them since changing hands, but I'm sure all will go fine.. (T)

And of course that's for a set of 9 balls. The last I ordered was
a couple years ago before changing hands, but I'd have to think
prices haven't gone up a whole lot.. (T)

And a job well done Steve, and you made the netting from Hockey net, right?
Also the side rails needed to be formed..
Now you have a machine that will be played over and over from all ages..
I bet the walking by neighbors will be missing it once it leaves the garage..

Yes, they don't pop up often, but I did have 3 of them, and still have one.
I took the old 14' mechanical Skee Ball out, and replaced it with a 2 player 12'
Bally and the next party, I heard it. They wanted the old mechanical one
back, so I found one and restored it. I still have a 2 player Genco Official
Skill Ball that needs to be gone through..

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Funny thing is, I posted that pic elsewhere, and someone came back and said,
Wow, that's a "Block-a-Shot", which it is. It's a 1976 that I believe is made by
Brunswick. A Kinda fun playing while you're laughing machine..
Not this one, but I think there's a video of the machine being played on youtube..

I was going to say, where did you get a vintage Skee-Ball
in that shape, then I realized it was you Steve..
You modified the closet floor so it had a good size opening?

It sounds like the Lock Relay isn't energizing which will make the
Game Over Relay energize. There may be more than one, but I'm
pretty sure there's a bump switch, like an anti-cheat switch in the
inside of the back of the machine. Probably on the side. It's two
switches with one of the switches having a small metal weight
at the end. Those switches need to be making good contact with
each other. I'm pretty sure 4 way is a late 50s (not 1953), so it
wouldn't be in the plugins unless there's also a bump switch in
the coin box. Your machine has two wooden front legs, right?
You could have something manually hold the Lock Relay in,
but when the machine is turned off, then back on, it wouldn't
go to game over as it should..

You sure there's 50 volts going to the Lock Relay..

That is nice! Looks like new pins. Did it come from Chris?
Had you tried it with the 4' extension? It makes it play like
much more than just 4'..

Yeah, the Pool Table that I have definitely has to stay..
The MBA has an 8' extension (28'), but when putting a
4' extension in the 16' Chicago Coin Big Ball Bowlers that
I had/have, it makes it appear 10' longer when playing..

I restored a few of the older mechanical Skee Balls which seem
to remain pretty much problem free..
I did have EM Multi-Player Skee Balls set up, but mostly all prefer
the vintage mechanical one..

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Nice job on the pin deck. On the formica, you could go with a cleaner and Magic Eraser, but that
would take some time. I always went with Mean Green and Scotch Brite. Being formica, it holds
up to the more aggressive Scotch Brite. As far as protecting, I never used anything. Just periodically
clean it. I had C.C. Big Ball Bowlers out (20 footers), and some of the Fellas like putting a spin and
curving the ball, and not applying anything enabled them to do that..
What little formica wear was shown, was already there when I purchased the machines, mostly from
old time Venders, but back in the 60s, people couldn't get enough bowling..

If you add a 4' extension, as you're bowling, you'd swear that it's 10' longer..
Big difference and if the space is there, very well worth it..
I have plenty of new different multi colored 4.5" balls that work fine on United,
but when tried on a Big Ball Chicago Coin, unless they were like the original
brown balls with the white swirls, at times the ball would get stuck. It's the only
Big Ball C.C. on tried the non brown/swirled balls on, but I now make sure the C.C.
Big Ball Bowlers that I have/had, gets played with only the brown white swirled balls..

For the MBA/Bowlarama Bowlers it's said that it's like $100/ft. Maybe could say
that about the other Big Ball Bowlers, but really never see enough, if any, sold
to really base a price on..
St. Louis Ball Bowlers may have an extension, but if you or someone you know
occasionally does some wood work, an extension can be made. It could also be
made what ever length you'd like that fits the spot that the bowler is in, and also
it would take away the possibility that the extension is a little to wide or narrow..
I know. Getting the formica to match. But there's some alternatives for that..

On the plug, what I have done is extend the harness (one wire at a time).
It seems that I've always extended the harness that came from the front of the
machine, but whatever end you can comfortably cut at least 6" from the female/
male plug..
On the formica. When extending the one that was put in a Friends bar (O'Leary's),
I used white formica (of course it didn't exactly match), and then had a
decal made (pretty cool decal) that said O'Leary's Bowling with this
angry looking ball racing toward these scared looking 10 pins. That decal lasted a
long time before it showed wear. If I did it again, I would put mylar over
the extended section. Certainly you'd put Pacman11 or whatever. Not O'Leary's.
It makes it appear there's a reason why the formica on that section has
no lines, an actually add's a little something to the lane..
If you choose that route, I should be able to have that decal made for you..
When making the gutters, having a table saw blade (maybe the common 10")
that pretty closely fits the gutters circular indent placed in the table saw, and then
clamping a guide so that the board is sawing into the side of the blade
will give 90% of the indent the gutter needs. Then 10% is a little sanding.
I did the sanding with 60 grit wrapped around a 2.5" pipe coupling..
Start the saw blade very low, and slowing increase with each pass..
I've made an 8' extension for a 13' bowler, and a 5' for a 16 footer,
and 21' is fine, but honestly, length to width, I think maybe 20' is close
to the perfect ratio..

Not $100/ft. $1,000/ft.?
I'm not sure about $1,000/ft. but I can say years back I did trade an 8' Bowlarama extension for
a nice Williams Line Drive and Gottlieb Rack-a-Ball..
$22,000.00 all day, but I've heard that a Bowlerama did go for $36,000.00. Of course it was
freshly redone..

I'm not sure about the newer models, but I went through quite a few for the old mechanicals, and just needed
a little cleaning. The tickets for those are still available..

Oh yes, looks much better! Well worth the 5 days..

Are you talking about the drive belt(s), (there's 2), for the pulleys?

Yup. The Deluxe is a 1957 also. Same schematic..

Actually there's two belts. If I remember correctly, the pulley that has the
belt coming from the motor's pulley has a small inside pulley attached that
has a belt to drive the chain's ball lift. I believe they're the same size belt.
I take and match the belts I need to replace to Napa Automotive. They
carry heavy duty belts..
Note: As you probably already noticed, both the motor and pulleys have
tightening adjustments..

I had never had that problem and had/have machines from the three major ball bowler manufacturers.
What do you have, a Chicago Coin?
I can say, while transporting, I like having the pins in the upward position..

Being a C.C., the pivot point should be metal on metal. Maybe you can try a couple drops of
light weight oil in those spots. I like Remington Gun Oil quite a bit. I always have some on hand..
Also, on the pin mech sliders (underneath the deck), maybe you can try a little Lemon Pledge on
a Q-Tip where the plastic comes in contact with the metal slides. Also, a little lube may not hurt if
needed. While the deck is still installed, I know it may be a little rough to get to, but perhaps you
can first try it on only one that seems to be attracting a little slower than it use to..

I've been informed that on letgo, (?), there's a Skee-Ball in Canandaigua, N.Y.
for $200.00 I like the mechanical ones. This one I believe is not, but sounds
like it could be a good buy for someone..

Yea, doesn't look too bad at all. The pocket rings are worth what they're asking.
I wish there were more pics. I was surprise to see the balls don't return at the lower
portion of the right rail..

Looks like maybe candle pin bowling pins. I wouldn't mind seeing a video of that be played..

The rubber you can get.
What's the width and depth of the assembly?
I might have one from a 50s bowler that can be adapted..

Sorry, checked in multiple places, no luck..
Shouldn't be too hard to make one. Might have to pick up
some 1/4" angle, or contact cement the rebound rubber on..

Bally also made an EM two player Skee Ball. I had a couple of them and had one set up in the
game room, and at the next party, a bunch complained that they wanted the old Tabagoon
flip number one back, so I parted with both Ballys. Still have a Genco two player "Official
Skill Roll" that I still need to go through..

Actually, the body style and length of the machine was different, but I'm pretty sure right from 1909
when Skee Ball first started, the mechanics basically stayed the same right to 1974 when the last of
the mechanical Skee Balls were produced.
I have to say, I do like the vintage all mechanical 14 ft. flip number machines the best..

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As far as I know Alex, your Skee Alley is the only light scoring Shuffle Target game.
I'd have to say the first of Skee Ball shuffles..
I had a couple Playboys, a Comet, and a few Venuses and still have a Kick-a-Poo, 5th Inning,
and a Venus which I would sell or trade but I'm in Upstate N.Y.

I thinking the only 2 made in the 60s were Playboy (1961 I believe) and Kick-a-Poo
from 1965 by Williams after they bought United.
Either of these look familiar?

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I could be wrong, but I'm thinking Kick-a-Poo is the last machine made of its type, or at least
the last EM of its type. Seems like there's not many around, but there may have been in the
late 60s/early 70s.
It's not really an attractive looking machine (or at least not to my eyes), but the reason I kept
the Kick-a-Poo set up is because unlike the others, Kick-a-Poo has the option that if you shoot
the puck in the center pocket, the player "Shoots Again". A huge plus for it's playability..
Maybe this feature will spark a memory, but as far as I know, another of its kind hadn't been
made after..

That starting price is a good deal. I've seen them go for much more..

I've had four Venuses and a couple Playboys. Could be others, but I know of
only one other Kick-a-Poo. I would have kept the Playboy if I hadn't stumbled
upon the Kick-a-Poo in this old Vendor's huge 3 story warehouse..
Another thing about Kick-a-Poo is that there's a choice of four different games
to play compared to two (Advance & Flash) on the others with multiple games..
Venus (which I believe is the first to have multiple games) seems to be more
likely to be able to acquire. It plays pretty much the same as the others including
Kick-a-Poo..

United was such a giant in shuffles, after Williams bought them, they kept the
United name. They placed a metal tag on the back door saying "Williams Electronics"
I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure they kept the United name right up until they
went to solid state..

I had never seen a Top Brass either. Could be something interesting.
I do like some of those non-bowler shuffles.
Yes, Chicago Coin's Goose Neck bowler with the swivel head. I've had
a few of them and still have three..
Between 3 close small towns, in the late 90s, I had 5 of them out and
we had a traveling bar to bar league. It was a good time until a (corrupt)
vendor bought out the Vendor that was in those 5 Taverns and screwed
everything up, including the long time Pool League which was also a
good time..
I only do it on the side and still have a few small ball bowlers out, but
also still have a 20 ft. Lazy Susan out in the local VFW..
As odd as it may sound, as much as I dislike those repair calls, I'd miss
them even more..

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I clean with Lemon Pledge, but I'm sure waxing would be a plus.
I use Sun-Glo Speed 3 on shuffle alleys, and Speed 2 on the shuffle board,
but first cleaning is the key..

Philadelphia Toboggan Coasters. These guys bought Philadelphia Toboggan Co. (Skee Ball)
(215)799-2155 They're prices may be a little up there also..

I only work on the EMs, but that switch doesn't go up through the hole, or even if it
does, it goes up in where you can't get to it?
It'll be a little tough to extend the wires from there, but I've done it to what I believe
was tighter places..

That has the Rolling Barrel at the top? I think made by Square Amusements maybe.
Years back, I restored one for a collector. I'm not sure what he sold it for, but I'm thinking
around $3,000.00 or maybe a little more..
I'd pick it up if the price is okay..

I'm into the more vintage machines, but if it works, it has to be worth all of that..

You're kidding me!
Surely worth a little tartiness, but were you able to
make it to work in time?

Is the manufacturer of your machine Square Amusements? Years back, I restored one.
Sending a PM.

Yea, I'm thinking the formica may have slid back. I'm pretty sure the formica should be able to be slide
toward the front. One of the woodrail Shuffles I restored was missing the front rubber, and I was able to
find and cut to fit a piece of rubber and contact it in place..

1. The rear of the machine should be 15.5" - 16" off the floor
2. I replaced the material with 1/8" padding I got from a flooring company.
3. The stripe runs the full length and is 1" wide.
4. Philadelphia Taboggan Coasters now own Skee Ball. I'll give the number below.
5. To replace the cork, I troweled (with teeth) a glue for flooring. The ramp I contact
cemented. If you don't use Contact Cement (which is thinner) on the ramp, the balls
won't launch properly..
6. I need two that I have. I'll check if I have a 3rd.
7. Philadelphia Taboggan Coasters along with the silver stripping, cork, and other Skee Ball
materials. Their number is: (215) 799-2155

I had multiple of other Target Shuffles, but only know of two Kick-a-Poos.
I'm thinkin' that one may take a little while to find..

Yes, that's true. From Skee Ball's beginning (1909) to 1974, the mechanics remained basically
the same, but the early Skee Balls were 36 ft. They shorten them because Ladies couldn't
roll the ball over the ramp. Once they became 14 ft. (maybe in the 1930s) they remained that
length for decades..

https://joeythecat.com/2016/08/23/the-history-of-skeeball/

I believe the 4 way is a late 50s machine. The Reset Bank Coil is 110V
I very most likely have some, but I need to save them for Ball Bowlers
that still need to be gone through.
If he still has the old coil, it can be rewound. I've rewound 110V coils with
the same wire I wind the 110V motors with, and it works fine.
I'm sure Steve Young or one of those guys can help you out, but if you have
an AC motor shop around, they should be able to take the old windings off,
and put new on..

If down the road you're going to strip it, why paint it?
Just a little heads up. Other glues (such as glue for vinyl flooring)
can be troweled on the beginning, but be sure to use contact cement
a foot or so before and going up the ramp. Anything thicker will cause
the ball to launch more flatly..
I'm thinking it's the mechanical Skee-Balls you have.
By any chance you live on the East Coast and would maybe like to trade
one, I might have interest.

Is the 1-10 Relay (in the Relay Bank) energizing when all
10 pins are made?

Oh yes. For all the Step Ups would be beneficial..

So the #1 Relay in the Relay Bank isn't energizing. Assuming the rollover switches are okay,
you might want to check the switches in the #1 Relay. When #1 is in the reset position,
there's a set of switches that should be making contact that completes the circuit to its own
relay. Then once energized, the switches open which breaks the #1 circuitry so the coil doesn't
remain energized. If that set is dirty or not making true contact when reset, that circuit stays open..

I've used other things, but the thicker stickim weather stripping works okay, but instead
of just applying them straight on, after I lightly sand, vacuum, then clean the areas of the
pin deck, I use contact cement to ensure they hold..

Actually, first finger tip sand the small areas so a little bare wood is shown, then vacuum, then
clean to make sure all the dust is removed. Damping a piece of cloth with just water is fine, but
I usually like using Paint Thinner (drys/evaporates fast).
Then apply contact cement to the pin deck areas along with the stickim side of the weather
stripping, of any tough type coarse foam you might have, but many weather strippings are
a width that words nicely. Once the contact cement is dry to the touch, it's ready to apply.
Some weather strippings are tougher than others. They're the ones you want to look for..
Note: I should have said the stickim side of the pieces of weather stripping. It's best to have
them pre-cut before applying the contact cement. I usually use a small Artist type painter's brush
when applying the contact cement..

Yup, the cheap stuff that's not thick and dense wears quickly.
For the Ball Bowlers I have out, I've mouse pads..

On the Pin Reset motor (and also the Score Motor), the armature pulls in when energized
(running), and springs back out when stopped. There's a little tail on the backside that
you can see pulls in once energized. Putting a couple drops of light weight oil (I like using
Remmington Gun oil) on the tail, then running the motor should not only help with the
noise, but also maybe speed up the motor a little bit. Sometimes I first spray a little Thrust
on the tail, run the motor, then a couple drops of the light weight oil..

I use Freeall (don't like DW40 so much), but sometimes first spraying
with Thrust, or P.B. Blaster, Freeall, ect., then energize the motor a few
times, then a couple drops of light weight oil (Remmington Gun Oil contains
teflon, likes to stick around), seems to work better.
I wouldn't apply Trust (ect.) in the front, but a couple drops of light weight
oil in the hole that's in the center of that black nut on the front side can also be a plus,
but usually the small armature's tail in the rear is the key, (Trust, energize, then light weight oil)..
Let us know..

As long as there's no plastic involved (so metal on metal) light weight oil won't hurt.
As a rule, where the thick wire type rods wraps around the rod, I oil through the
wraps to help prevent any dragging/grabbing, but any moving parts that's metal on
metal light weight oil is fine. Oil on plastic will actually expand the plastic, and it
really doesn't hurt too much unless it's close tolerance, but I try to keep it to a rule
not to oil/lube anything containing plastic, nylon, ect. Only metal on metal..
btw: For me, I sense Remmington Gun Oil (in a small bottle, not the aresal) being
better than 3 in 1 and others..

Your welcome.
Now the Pin Reset motor's revolution may be slightly faster (where it normally should be), and
if some pins go back up after reset, that means the Score Motor is running slow and a couple
drops of light weight oil should be applied on its armature's tail also so that the Score Motor
operates fast enough to reset the Relay Bank before the pins reaches the totally reset position..

Yes. Those look very nice!

Keeping a good size story short, I was lucky enough to stumble upon 4 of the
mechanical Skee Balls that originated at a Family Amusement Park that I attended
as a Kid, and then another 8 or 10 from another Amusement Park (Darian Lake,
now Six Flags) here in Upstate N.Y. and I found some to be printed, and some stickers.
GPS's is a 1958, so I'm not sure if the older ones were printed and the more newer were
stickers, or once worn, they redid them with stickers.
I'm remembering I had sticker numbers made, and for the printed ones, I freshened up
with a new black Sharpie. Sold most for cheap. Still have 2, but wish I still had the others..

This is true. More Housewives are working more than ever. They have no choice..
Years back, someone mentioned using Fish Netting for Skee Ball Nets.
It may not be ideal, but for a fast fix, I can easily see it working perfectly fine..

IMG_1228 (resized).JPG

Wurlitzer? Interesting. Have any pics?

Yea, I'd be attached to it also. It has much more character than the normal mechanical
Skee Balls.
I remember back in 2,009, Philadelphia Tabagoon made a limited amount of Skee Balls that
looked similar to your Wurlitzer. I believe it replicated their 1939 model. It was in honor of their
100th year making Skee Balls..

I wouldn't be surprise if it had 5 rollovers for scoring. Ball in the 10 pocket would roll
over 1 rollover, 20, over 2 rollovers, ect. Each run over energizes a relay which energizes
the scoring step up unit. Maybe also a Shots step up unit. After 9 balls (a Skee Ball's norm),
has been played, the machine doesn't except any more shots.
It may be simple enough that you might be able to swing it without a schematics..

Yes, you're welcome. It should be a fun project, and if you have the room,
I'm sure you'll be taking it on, but for any reason you don't, I'd have interest
in it.
I don't do fb, but last weekend, someone stopped over and mentioned there
was a vintage Skee Ball on fb.
Might have that one come out of Pa.?

Well, I arranged things in one of the game rooms, and I have room for one 9 ft.
machine. I'm considering either taking the Chicago Coin All American Basketball
out of storage, or the United's Silver Roll down ball bowler.
I've play an All American Basketball, and with the huge animation, it's a pretty
cool game, but I never played a roll down bowler. I think one of the games on the
roll down I know, and it's a good one..
Anyone played a roll down bowler? If so, what's your thoughts?

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:All_American_Basketball_(2599415578).jpg

http://www.pinrepair.com/bowl/silver.htm

The 1st pic must be the transformer. The 3rd pic is the scoring step up, and the
2nd pic. The lane that has the 2 wires. Are there rollovers down that alley? Maybe
5 of them?

If you might have access to a Vari-Ac where you can regulate the amount of output voltage,
you can test the coil at what voltage best activates it. It may be 110V, but my guess it's 50.
You can also jump the coil off of a 50V coil like off a Bally 50V lock out coil just inside the coin
door. Years back that was my old way before picking up a Vari-Ac..

That's a tough one. I only know of 2 of them.
Kick-a-Poo does have a couple other game selections than United's Playboy
or Venus, but what separates it mostly from those 2 is that if you hit the
70 (center) hole, the same player gets to shoot again.
If you found a Playboy or Venus, it takes a little bit of work, but their center
holes can be converted so it plays the same as Kick-a-Poo where the player
shoots again..
btw: I forgot the name, but in the early 60s (before Williams bought United),
United's last Target Shuffle had a rule set like Kick-a-Poos. If you found one of
them, I'm sure you'd keep it, but If you wanted, I'd trade my Kick-a-Poo for
that one. I'll try to find the title of that particular Shuffle..

You know, because the open spot I have is next to the Midway's Rifle Gallery (and maybe a shuffle might
stick out just a little to far in that spot), I decided to bring in the Bally's Marksman air compressor gun game.
Because it needs a complete restoration, I knew it was going to take a little time, but the reason I'm now at
a temporary halt is because after opening the back door (which I had to make a new one), not only all the labels
are missing, but one relay is all apart. Fortunately, I located a Fellow Collector that has a Marksman and is willing
to give me a hand with the labels and straightening out that one relay once he's able to get back to his games.
Once I unload half of my stored machines, I'll have space to set up the Roll Down Bowler and the All American
Basketball along with others..
Edit: Here's a pic of the open space and the Marksman. She'll fit in that spot perfectly..

IMG_1513 (resized).JPG

IMG_1514 (resized).JPG

Yes, and it took a while, but I was able to locate a Fellow Collector with a Marksman that's
going to help me to straighten out the wiring on one Relay that the switch stack is all apart..
Usually when I see a town's name that I'm not familiar with, it's down near N.Y.C., but after
looking it up, Pulteney is dead south of me not far from Penn Yan. I'm in Penn Yan a few times
a year..

I tried silicone, and didn't care for it so much.
I clean with Lemon Pledge (wipe off dry), and
use Sun-Glo #2. #1 is more like salt than powder,
and actually too fast.
I use Lemon Pledge on Shuffle Alleys also. It makes
a difference..

Congratulations. That's a tough one to come across.
I have a schematic and I've fixed the target pads by cutting out and (I think I remember epoxying) the
1/16" lexan to the aluminum frame, and then painting and contact cementing a thin foam like material
to the lexan. I've had a few Target Shuffles, and most had conveyor belt issues. An Upholstery Friend
helped me with that stitching things back together.
Shoot me an email direct if you'd like.. [email protected]

Yes, check out post 1037 in this thread.
Years back when none were to be found,
I've made then by epoxying 1/16 lexan,
then thin foam rubber on top. So far, so
good. It held up well..

Oh yes. Sorry. I repaired mine by applying Clear Seal (by Liquid Nails) on the backside,
but yours looks pretty beat up as if it could use a thick liquid substance that can be brushed
on then painted and remains flexible when dried. Seems I once knew of a substance..
Don't know of any repro inserts..

I was thinking, if no luck finding a replacement, Flex Seal spray remains flexible and
can be painted. It comes in a Clear also.
Perhaps Clear Seal (strong flexible stuff) underneath, and Flex Seal (multiple thin tacky
layers) on top..