(Topic ID: 174947)

Shuffle/Ball/Skee Club. Join Us!


By GPS

2 years ago



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  • 431 posts
  • 106 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by Parkshow30
  • Topic is favorited by 55 Pinsiders

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    There are 431 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 9.
    #401 4 months ago
    Quoted from AlexF:

    Personally I'd rather have an old one but this would be cool if one had the space and a big budget.

    Looks like maybe candle pin bowling pins. I wouldn't mind seeing a video of that be played..

    #402 4 months ago
    Quoted from Mopar:

    Looks like maybe candle pin bowling pins. I wouldn't mind seeing a video of that be played..

    #403 4 months ago

    Damn. Already sold. Amazing price for what appears to have been a nice condition game. Guess it wasn’t meant to be. Now returning to my restoration of my Watling Horoscope scale.

    #404 4 months ago
    Quoted from LateCenturyMods:

    Is that the 10ohm 15W resistor on the power supply? Check the small bridge rectifier (4 pins in a row). It does fail now and again and may take out the 7805 also.

    It says 5 ohms on it and memcore on the bottom.. I tried looking up a replacement but can't find anything that is 5 ohms. See picture for the resistor in question.

    Yup (resized).jpg
    #405 4 months ago

    can anyone take a picture of how their rocker style linkage is hooked up. Mainly the rod that runs from the actuator to the linkage?

    #406 4 months ago
    Quoted from fatality83:

    can anyone take a picture of how their rocker style linkage is hooked up. Mainly the rod that runs from the actuator to the linkage?

    Also looking for pictures how they wired up their credit button, especially the wiring

    #407 4 months ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Interesting question. I thought everybody kind of stopped making them by the mid/late 80s, with Williams being the last manufacturer making them in the early 90s on the WPC system. I didn't really see anything newer than that.

    Thanks,I think you're right.Everytime I tried to find one online,I always drew a blank.I'm kinda surprised there's no market for them anymore?

    #408 4 months ago
    Quoted from fatality83:

    can anyone take a picture of how their rocker style linkage is hooked up. Mainly the rod that runs from the actuator to the linkage?

    This may help:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shuffleballskee-club-join-us/page/7#post-4391929

    #409 4 months ago
    Quoted from fatality83:

    It says 5 ohms on it and memcore on the bottom.. I tried looking up a replacement but can't find anything that is 5 ohms. See picture for the resistor in question.
    [quoted image]

    Oh, OK. You have the L-shaped SBC-1 controller, it looks like. This guy has the manual (and one of the photos you were asking for): http://www.rustykey.com/projects/skeeball/default.html

    The resistor is in series with the 7805 and it's supposed to get hot. So long as no AC is getting through the bridge rectifier to the resistor and voltage regulator, and assuming the 5 volts measures OK, then it should be fine.

    If you find the +12V missing, the 7812 is a common failure.

    #410 4 months ago

    Thank you so much!!! This is a huge help. Looks like I am missing the solenoid control rod and end connector only. Shouldn't be hard to fabricate something to work.

    As for the board issue, I have actually gotten it back to booting up. The resistor I mentioned tested ok, however it was a 5 ohm resistor when in fact there should be a 10 ohm in place, however that wasn't the issue. There was a bad diode near the 5 volt regulator that needed replaced. Once I replaced that, the game went back to booting right up. However something is still wrong. Only one LED on the board lights up, the other two don't light up. If I manually coin up the board with all the wiring disconnected to elimate any wiring causing the issue, the board resets. I am in email correspondence with a person that repairs these boards and worked for skee ball repairing the boards. I have tested the two triacs on the board with strange results, one triac shows ol between two legs but gives a reading when I reverse the test leads. The other triac gives reading between the two same legs regardless of which test lead is where so there may be an issue with one of the triac circuits or both. I have to go home later tonight and test 12 blocking diodes on the right side of the board.

    When I test the 12 volt test spot on the board, it shows nothing. Not sure if this is normal or not. Maybe the 12 volts isn't supposed to get to that section on the board unless the game is coined up or started. All this electronic stuff is new and very confusing to me but I have been trying to learn what I can. Either way, I am one step closer to hopefully getting this resolved. Thanks again for the input, it will be very valuable to me in getting this thing working for the wife

    #411 4 months ago

    Got a really rough shape Iceball and converted it to "something classy" for the wife. I show pics of my pinballs and people always ask "Yeah yeah, but does the Skeeball work?!"

    Work performed:
    - Cleaned all the garbage out/off of it (there was A LOT of black goo, hair and fuzz, cobwebs, old tokens, and other various disgusting stuff)
    - All (damaged) decals removed
    - Stripped and painted in gray enamel on the sides and lane
    - Stripped metal parts and coated in Duratex (almost like truck bed liner)
    - Cage stripped and repainted in Duratex
    - Bulbs all replaced with LEDs
    - Switch installed for credits
    - Custom marquee printed on 1/8" acrylic
    - Target area stripped and replaced with base layer of neoprene, marine vinyl in gray (laser cut)
    - Cup decals replaced with cut vinyl stickers
    - LED strip lighting along the runway

    Since I had all the tools, the paints, the Duratex, and work very closely with a professional printer, my total cost ended up being... $260

    The picture of the original was after I cleaned it and stripped down a bunch of parts. I wish I had taken a pic when we brought it home. It was really disgusting - I threw away the microfiber towels instead of washing them.

    FullSizeRender.jpg (resized).jpegFullSizeRender.jpg-1 (resized).jpeg
    #412 4 months ago

    Looks great! Nice marquee

    #413 3 months ago
    Quoted from fatality83:

    When I test the 12 volt test spot on the board, it shows nothing. Not sure if this is normal or not.

    That is not normal. 12 volts is required for the displays, and it should always be available.

    #414 3 months ago
    Quoted from LateCenturyMods:

    That is not normal. 12 volts is required for the displays, and it should always be available.

    latecenturymods

    Giving you an update.... I have been talking via email with someone who knows the model S boards well and suggested I look at a section of diodes on the board. I found one bad diode in this section of the board and replaced it. Game still does not coin up with the coin switch or free play button. If I remove the switch connector J-9 from the board and manually jump pins (from left to right) 2 & 5, it credits the game up, I hear the ball solenoid energize and it plays the start up tune and all 0's on the board stop rotating and stay constantly lit.

    If I jump pins 3 & 4 with the J-9 connector removed, the score adds up 10 points each time the pins are jumped. I plugged J-9 back into the board while I was in the middle of a game to test the scoring switches. All switches register something however they appear to be giving strange values. For instance the bottom 10 point hole is registering 30 points, the 20 point hole is registering 40 points. I don't know the exact values the other ones are registering but I can check when I get home. The game appears to end after 9 balls are tossed up as the score stays lit solid and won't increase any if anymore balls are thrown. I did forget to mention I removed the ball rocker and linkage so basically the balls just rolls back down to the player all the time. I even tried thinking the game might not start without it seeing a ball activating the ball count switch but activating that switch and coining it up also did nothing.

    So my issues now are, the game won't start with either the coin switch or the free play button. The only way to start a game is to jump those pins on the pcb like I said. Also the scoring switches appear to be giving out wrong values.

    Any suggestions on what to do next?

    #415 3 months ago
    Quoted from fatality83:

    Giving you an update.... I have been talking via email with someone who knows the model S boards well and suggested I look at a section of diodes on the board. I found one bad diode in this section of the board and replaced it. Game still does not coin up with the coin switch or free play button. If I remove the switch connector J-9 from the board and manually jump pins (from left to right) 2 & 5, it credits the game up, I hear the ball solenoid energize and it plays the start up tune and all 0's on the board stop rotating and stay constantly lit.

    If I jump pins 3 & 4 with the J-9 connector removed, the score adds up 10 points each time the pins are jumped. I plugged J-9 back into the board while I was in the middle of a game to test the scoring switches. All switches register something however they appear to be giving strange values. For instance the bottom 10 point hole is registering 30 points, the 20 point hole is registering 40 points. I don't know the exact values the other ones are registering but I can check when I get home. The game appears to end after 9 balls are tossed up as the score stays lit solid and won't increase any if anymore balls are thrown. I did forget to mention I removed the ball rocker and linkage so basically the balls just rolls back down to the player all the time. I even tried thinking the game might not start without it seeing a ball activating the ball count switch but activating that switch and coining it up also did nothing.

    So my issues now are, the game won't start with either the coin switch or the free play button. The only way to start a game is to jump those pins on the pcb like I said. Also the scoring switches appear to be giving out wrong values.

    Any suggestions on what to do next?

    Lack of coin up sounds like either a continuity problem between the connector and the switch or functionality of the switch itself. Maybe the wires have a cut; maybe the header or the pins are the issue?

    The scoring switches either give 10 points or 50 points (50 points only if you have 100 point holes). The ball hits multiple 10-point switches to accumulate the 10 through 50 scores. For example throw the ball trough the 40 hole and the ball routing channel behind the playfield sends it to trigger 10 point switches for the 40, 30, 20, and 10 holes to accumulate the 40 points. A throw through a 100 hole routes past a 50 switch then all 5 10-point switches to accumulate 100 points. Elegant in the simplicity.

    Sounds like your computer is capturing the "10 points" correctly when you use jumpers and with some of the 10 point switches, so check the switches themselves and their trigger arms. Perhaps the ball rolling by pushes the trigger arm to a point where the switch oscillates between contact and no-contact which causes multiple point reads. Given what you said - 10 hole scores 30 and 20 hole scores 40 - the 10 point switch for the 20 hole is fine but the 10 point switch for the 10 hole is problematic. It gets triggered when you hit the 10 and the 20 point hole, so it is messing up the scoring for both holes. It also gets triggered for a 30, 40, and 50 hit so in the current state you should see similar "overscoring" on those holes as well. If 50 scores 70 you only have the problem with the 10 hole's switch.

    -Rob
    -visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my replacement LED display boards for model H & model S Skee Ball

    #416 3 months ago
    Quoted from rkahr:

    Lack of coin up sounds like either a continuity problem between the connector and the switch or functionality of the switch itself. Maybe the wires have a cut; maybe the header or the pins are the issue?
    The scoring switches either give 10 points or 50 points (50 points only if you have 100 point holes). The ball hits multiple 10-point switches to accumulate the 10 through 50 scores. For example throw the ball trough the 40 hole and the ball routing channel behind the playfield sends it to trigger 10 point switches for the 40, 30, 20, and 10 holes to accumulate the 40 points. A throw through a 100 hole routes past a 50 switch then all 5 10-point switches to accumulate 100 points. Elegant in the simplicity.
    Sounds like your computer is capturing the "10 points" correctly when you use jumpers and with some of the 10 point switches, so check the switches themselves and their trigger arms. Perhaps the ball rolling by pushes the trigger arm to a point where the switch oscillates between contact and no-contact which causes multiple point reads. Given what you said - 10 hole scores 30 and 20 hole scores 40 - the 10 point switch for the 20 hole is fine but the 10 point switch for the 10 hole is problematic. It gets triggered when you hit the 10 and the 20 point hole, so it is messing up the scoring for both holes. It also gets triggered for a 30, 40, and 50 hit so in the current state you should see similar "overscoring" on those holes as well. If 50 scores 70 you only have the problem with the 10 hole's switch.
    -Rob
    -visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my replacement LED display boards for model H & model S Skee Ball

    Thanks for the suggestion, I actually got it up and running 100% last night. I had to trace the coin switch wiring to the board and found out that my game doesn't match what is shown in the model s wiring diagrams. Not sure wire but anyone, once I found what wires went to the coin switch at the board and traced them back to where they went, the game now starts with the free play button.

    As for the scoring issue you also were correct. I noticed if i triggered the switches manually by hand that they would add up in increments of 10 but if the ball rolled through them it would give incorrect scoring. The problem was the switches that I replaced had longer contacts then the ones that were on there. When the ball rolled past, it would bend the metal arm back so far it would kinda catapult back and forth a few times registering points each time. Trimming the switch arm length and bending them to adjust them a little fixed this issue as well. They now all score 10 points like they should.

    #417 3 months ago

    Excellent!

    #418 3 months ago
    Quoted from fatality83:

    I actually got it up and running 100% last night.

    Awesome! If you are hosting Thanksgiving your guests will be thankful for your perseverance!

    -Rob
    -visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my replacement LED display boards for model H & model S Skee Ball

    #419 3 months ago

    Nice work. Glad you got it going.
    When I have people over, Skeeball is one of the most played games.

    1 month later
    #420 62 days ago

    I picked this up this weekend in a package deal and do not want it. It does power up and play but will need some work to make it work perfect. The right side of the cabinet is not the best and the back glass does have some flaking.

    Looking for help of what I should sell it for and is there another website to list items like this?

    Thanks for any help

    Bill Hess

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    1 week later
    #421 54 days ago

    I just picked up a 6ft skee ball a few months back. Have yet to put anything into it except some bulbs.

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    #422 54 days ago
    Quoted from drummerdude:

    I just picked up a 6ft skee ball a few months back. Have yet to put anything into it except some bulbs.
    [quoted image]

    My first reaction was - WOW that's tiny. Neat find

    #423 53 days ago
    Quoted from drummerdude:

    I just picked up a 6ft skee ball a few months back. Have yet to put anything into it except some bulbs.
    [quoted image]

    i really need that. what do you want for it?

    #424 52 days ago

    At 6' is it even a challenge?

    #425 51 days ago
    Quoted from Lawnboy:

    I picked this up this weekend in a package deal and do not want it. It does power up and play but will need some work to make it work perfect. The right side of the cabinet is not the best and the back glass does have some flaking.
    Looking for help of what I should sell it for and is there another website to list items like this?
    Thanks for any help
    Bill Hess
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    If anyone wants this I will sell for $100 or trade for????? Its located in Cudahy, WI

    #426 51 days ago
    Quoted from Pugsley:

    At 6' is it even a challenge?

    That's youth size

    1 week later
    #427 43 days ago

    Purchased these a few weeks ago and just now getting time to set them up. A local arcade supply house had two Skee Ball Too! machines, one in full working order, the other has an issue with the display. Here is the working one set up for free play (really like the game setup/options box in these newer skee's vs dip switches):
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    Some notes:
    The previous owner (an arcade I presume due to the card swipe instructions on the coin mech) had installed the rubber light strips down the alley and around the scoring cage. I've since removed the cage strip lights as only a few feet of each strip lights up. I'll leave the alley light strips. Not sure if they work yet or not. The glow strips are pink lights.

    The units don't have a sleep mode so the fan and scoreboard are constantly on. Its a quiet fan and I've turn the "Attract" music off so it only fires up audio when the game is being played. If I can't rig up a sleep sensor, I'm guessing I'll just mount a power strip into the front of the alley below the ticket dispenser area for easy power toggle.

    Also, there are three cutouts in the ceiling above the scoring rings. One is obviously for the light strip to illuminate the scoring rings and the rear one appears to be for the speaker. The other I'm not sure about.

    Once I get those final touch up issues settled, I'll be setting up the second unit beside this one and start work on it.

    #428 43 days ago

    Here's a pic of the ceiling with the 3 holes. I know the front one is the light strip hole and the back one is the speaker hole. What's the purpose of the middle one?
    IMG-2772 (resized).JPG

    #429 43 days ago

    Neat find!

    #430 42 days ago

    Center hole - could be for beacon light / police light. Not every arcade uses them, especially if the games are shoved into an alcove with a low ceiling.

    1 month later
    #431 9 days ago

    Anyone have any experience with the Arachnid Super Shuffle or one of its variants? It looks fun and I like the space saving design. We would primarily use it for the shuffle bowling. I know I’ve seen someone here with one, don’t remember who but it was in a picture of a gameroom that was upstairs.

    We currently have a 6 foot rebound shuffle that we use pins and a pin setter to play. We also have a 9 foot roll and score that is a new cheaper and little kid friendly version of a skee ball.

    4D97750C-A9D3-44DA-981C-650A1DFC149D (resized).jpeg7FA0121A-2602-44BF-91AA-D38A62FB0F24 (resized).jpeg
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