I'm thinking more like $1000-$1500. For $2500 I would expect it to be fully shopped, cleaned, and come with everything.

I don't think Skee-Ball ever published the Model H manual online. However, see picture attached. The mechanism should always allow exactly 9 balls to roll down while the solenoid is on. See if the rocker arm is jamming or scraping on the front dog.

You can remove the front dog entirely, but people could reach in and push the rocker arm down by hand, and then the next game won't have 9 balls.

Skee_Ball_Ball_Release (resized).jpg

The AGC10 fuse protects the 12 volt supply. It's still shorted somewhere -- check the harnesses for the coin door and ticket dispenser first; the logic board and display also get 12 volts but damaged harnesses in the front of the game are much more likely.

Is that the 10ohm 15W resistor on the power supply? Check the small bridge rectifier (4 pins in a row). It does fail now and again and may take out the 7805 also.

This may help:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shuffleballskee-club-join-us/page/7#post-4391929

Oh, OK. You have the L-shaped SBC-1 controller, it looks like. This guy has the manual (and one of the photos you were asking for): http://www.rustykey.com/projects/skeeball/default.html

The resistor is in series with the 7805 and it's supposed to get hot. So long as no AC is getting through the bridge rectifier to the resistor and voltage regulator, and assuming the 5 volts measures OK, then it should be fine.

If you find the +12V missing, the 7812 is a common failure.

That is not normal. 12 volts is required for the displays, and it should always be available.

Excellent!

Center hole - could be for beacon light / police light. Not every arcade uses them, especially if the games are shoved into an alcove with a low ceiling.

Pretty sure there is no free play mode because there is no Start button - especially this model, which has a time limit so it would be constantly restarting a game while waiting for a player to show up.

"12", black (ground), and "signal" - are those in the coin door area?

If so you should be able to coin it up by briefly touching the exposed part of the white Signal wire to the black Ground. Keep the 12V wire away from touching the others or exposed metal. I'd throw some masking tape over it for now.

Just an idea ... I haven't tried it, but I wonder if wire duct cover would do to get started? Example: http://www.automationdirect.com/pn/COV-60W-1

The funnel is absolutely necessary. I for one would not pay that price for those parts though.

Is that the OEM?

Looks like Skee-Ball Model H or thereabouts. I'd say it is worth it also.

Seriously looks better than it ever did in the arcade. Nice work.

* Pin 1 -- WHITE -- Switch N.C.
* Pin 1 -- RED -- Switch COM
* Pin 1 -- BLACK -- Switch N.O.

The actuator can be replaced with music wire - check the diameter with calipers. You can get several feet for under $10 at Hobby Lobby or any hobby store. The hard part, by far, is bending the wire into the shape needed to retain it on the switch.

That belongs here too:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/show-off-your-rareprototype-pinball-stuff/

Good old Chicago screws, or sex bolts if you prefer. The ones I've bought at Ace have one smooth featureless side which looks good. A little Loc-tite and you're good to go for decades.

Adj 19 = 0 for custom pricing, Adj 23 = 0 for minimum coin-units for 1 credit. Pretty sure that's all.

I think I see a coin chute, and I am guessing that the chute both resets the score (couple of wires) and releases the balls. If so, you should be good. What you have there looks like enough to score the game. (Or set it afire, at least until the wiring is all replaced.)

Search this thread for the parts you need. There are various sources.

409 spray (or maybe Simple Green?) and a scrub brush, or the hard green side of a kitchen sponge.

Saw this thread on Reddit... anyone got a manual or have experience with Superball brand skee games?

https://old.reddit.com/r/cade/comments/18f7w4u/superball_skee_ball_help/

The stray 2-pin connector by the board plugs in next to the big ol' orange capacitor and the blue volume control. That's the speaker.

The 3-pin connector that someone stuck a black fuse holder on is your ball release solenoid cable. Pay special attention to where that goes, since it's AC voltage while the other 3-pin cables are not.

Above that on your board is a 2-pin connector that goes to the top-of-cabinet flasher.

Wouldn't hurt to check for 120V across J2 pins 1 and 2 when starting a game. Do this with the solenoid connected just to verify that the board is giving you the 120V. It's only for about 1-2 seconds so set your voltmeter to a 3-digit or higher range so it responds quickly.

Very likely you will see nothing and you have a blown TRIAC or its little opto friend, but check the other components too; whoever added a fuse to a solenoid circuit that already has a fuse is not dealing with the chronic root problem. U11 drives the optoisolator, if it comes to that.

If the fuse blows intermittently it's a mechanical issue, something holding the solenoid back. Just like Atari Hercules.

triacs (resized).png

The MOC3030 is the optoisolator, separating the low voltage side from the high.

With one test probe jammed in next to P2 pin 2 touch both ends of R34 and R35; you should find 120VAC at all four points. If not, see if there are burned traces on the board that are preventing the connector from getting 120V neutral or the resistors and TRIAC 120V hot. If those four points do have power, start by replacing the SC146D with another TRIAC rated at least 10A and 400V.

Either way you'll unplug the game next and have the board out, and you can check for grainy or broken solder connections or burned up traces.

One-half amp slow blow 250V, should be a MDL-1/2 or similar glass fuse. Ceramic is fine, too.

I think you've got it. If it jams and the solenoid can't pull in all the way, it pulls 8-10x the current and blows the fuse. That mechanism looks brand new though, so please post damage/wear pics when you get a chance. They greatly simplified it so it wouldn't jam as easily and I'm curious what went wrong.

I am guessing their only goal on the positioning holes is to offer a 6- or 9-ball drop, so the location of the solenoid should physically hold back any additional balls beyond that number (up to 3 more).

When you said the mechanism had excessive play, I was imagining you'd be removing the clevis pin and taking the lever apart to see what is wobbly. I don't think there's anything about the wood that could cause a problem unless you are hearing a collision between the lever and something else. It should just drop down and stop the balls, nothing more.

I wish I were closer. The MOC3030, if bad, would be inconsistently switching the triac. Not impossible, but doubtful. Any way you could get a video of the mechanism to me? If the plunger doesn't physically make it all the way into the solenoid current draw will be high. Trying loosening the solenoid from the plate, starting a game with the solenoid in its usual position in the game, and tightening it while it is still actuated. This may take care of misalignment issues.