Do you use a add on 12v powersupply and use the beacon motor or beacon bulb wire as the signal wire for the 12v relay power for the lightbar??

Ok, so after pulling 1J-18 in addition to 1J-19 (game powered on but not started), the voltage at pin 2 of U50 drops from 4.9v down to about 0.1v dc.

Is this pointing to the 0.1uf caps on the MPU?

Thanks again for the help!

This is telling me that your switch for this solenoid is closed when it should be open. If you reinstall 1J-19 and leave 1J-18 off then start a game the coil will not lock on and not overheat. You should take pics of the switch stack so we can see what might be wrong.

I would never dream of stating or implying that Grumpy is giving bad advice. His advice is always great.

I have not been following along closely but this statement:

implies that both 1J18 and 1J19 are NOT connected. In this instance, it would isolate the cause of the 0V at U50-2 to the board circuitry only.

What is confusing me is an earlier statement:

with an implication that 1J18 is connected but 1J19 is disconnected.

The two statements are actually at odds (contradict) each other since the implication that U50-2 reading 0V from a board problem should always read 0V regardless of 1J18 connected or disconnected.

If it were me, to focus on 1J18 and the SST, I would ignore 1J19 (disconnect it), take and report measurements at U50-2 with 1J18 connected and disconnected. Given the above, U50-2 should read 0V in both circumstances. In that case, it isolates the issue to the board and not the SST.

If there is a flaw in the logic (thinking) then please correct me. Expiring minds want to learn and know.

Dominated the Christmas guests!

F23CEE25-C8B4-4635-8795-4507AEA5F661 (resized).jpeg

Good game! I have only turned over the score (10m) twice. On one of the games I got three jackpots on the first ball!

Looking to get back in but want a really nice one. I have owned probably 8 different ones. Would really like one with a restored cleared playfield.

Here is my speaker upgrade for High Speed - I made the stickers to improve the look.

They sound 100% better than the old speakers did…

IMG_4297 (resized).jpeg

IMG_4299 (resized).jpeg

IMG_4300 (resized).jpeg

IMG_4301 (resized).jpeg

I confirmed with MFG that this light bar supposedly draws only 2.5 amps. The buck converter has a 3amp out put. I cked the schematics for High Speed beacon circuit vs. F-14 beacon circuit and it basically looks the same. However the f-14 uses 4amp SB fuse. Since the circuit is the same i see no reason why i can up the fuse size on the HighSpeed to 4ASB without fear of over load. ????

I don’t get it. My beacon wasn’t working due to a wire in the cement resistor being loose. If I shoved it back in it worked. The knocker stopped working because the solder connection for its wire broke loose. I replaced the cement resistor and resoldered the knocker wire. Knocker works, but my beacon doesn’t work now even after replacing the resistor? I’ve checked continuity on all connections, not sure where to start now or why all it worked with the broken resistor shoved in it, but not with it replaced? This thing has too many issues that don’t make sense.

IMG_7847 (resized).jpeg

IMG_7848 (resized).jpeg

I took pictures of the 3 pop bumper switch stacks. In order, it's Upper Left (new switch stack from PBLife), Upper Right (new cap and diode), and Bottom Left (new cap and diode). I'm not seeing any obvious differences between the 3

Upper Left - New from PBLife

Upper Right - New Cap and Diode

Bottom Left - New Cap and Diode

May need to zoom out so we can see the whole switch stack (the blades/contacts).

Edit. I grounded the Tip122 transistor for it and it still works, so what I did is working. Looks like I have “another” board issue. And this thing was just rebuilt 5/23 according to the repair sticker on it. Just frustrating that it seems when I get one thing fixed, something else goes out. At least I’m learning more about it as I go.

I ordered some TIP102s as you suggested, I’ve got replacement 2N4401s coming, since they don’t seem to be all that expensive I’m thinking of ordering some new 7408 ICs as well. Mine seem to be generic. The one I currently have just says 7408N. Some of the newer ones are listed as LS or HCT. Is there a particular brand you would recommend, or advise to avoid? I’d prefer the best reasonably available.

The circuit is designed to use TTL 7408 or DM7408.
74LS08 is BAD for high noise circuity.
I have had to do so many repairs on boards that have had the 7408 replaced with the LS ic.

Yeah. I fixed those as GRUMPY mentioned I wasn’t getting the correct readings back at the 7408 chip or the driver in between. It’s why at this point I’m just going to replace everything in that connection, make sure all the continuity is correct, and have backups if necessary. Since I bought it this way, I have no idea whom did the repairs, but I wouldn’t recommend if I knew. . I figured at this point I couldn’t make it much worse.

You can always make the board worse. That is not a personal comment/attack on you. I have made boards worse myself when I got overzealous and overconfident.

Since the situation has changed from the numerous posts on your topic and you have made some changes that aren't documented or shown in images, I would post a summary of the current state if you want more help from me. The only person who probably has an idea without reading back through everything is Grumpy.

Thanks. I’m awaiting parts at this point. With Grumpy’s tip on how to check the TIPS by a quick ground, I know the work on the beacon I did, it still works, I just don’t know why the signal isn’t getting there now. Considering we know the board wasn’t repaired very well. I’m just going step by step trying to resolve issues.

I have managed to repair the issues up top and replace the cement resistor. I’ve resolved all the sound issues and the “hum” I had. The OUTHOLE issue is what I’m trying to repair at the moment as it makes it impossible to play without taking the glass off and the Outhole cover. Once I get the rest of the parts here, I’ll see what else I can find out.

I do have a question on the Outhole solenoid. We know it works, but it does like to throw the return spring (which was off when I got it). I’m wondering if that could have been the cause of the failures? Or should the solenoid return itself and needs to be replace as well?

Grounding the tab of the transistor does not mean you are "checking" the transistor. Grounding the tab only bypasses the "switching" aspect of the transistor (its response to the signal at the base) by directly connecting the collector and the emitter. The tab is the collector and the emitter is connected to ground (on the board).

A solenoid converts electrical energy to mechanical energy through the use of a magnetic field. The outhole solenoid is directly under software control. The software pulses the solenoid. The solenoid is NOT under hardware control - which contrasts the "special" solenoids. The special solenoids are under both hardware AND software control. Once the pulse has been discontinued by the solenoid, the plunger should return to the "resting" position. This is done through a variety of means. More often than not it is a spring (compression or extension). Sometimes, it is gravity (drop target reset).

If you have a logic probe then you can put the game into diagnostic mode and check the pulse at the base of the pre-drive (2N4401) transistor. This should be LOW. The software will pulse it HIGH when it wants the solenoid to energize.

I didn’t mean to presume the transistor was working, I just meant grounding it shows what it’s connected too worked.

I’m wondering if my Outhole is missing a solenoid spring or that one isn’t working. The “arms” spring is the one that keeps coming off. If it’s missing, if you fire the Outhole, it doesn’t return to its “resting” spot. I was curious if that could be a “cause” of my issues, but from your reply I don’t believe that’s possible. I need to go back through all the images to an Outhole pick and see if mine has springs where it should. Just another thing to track down. GRUMPY sent a post and had me walk through testing the connections to the Outhole. It’s when I got a response that wasn’t expected that I decided to fix those solder connections you pointed out. That’s when it was determined I needed to replace those Transistor at a minimum. Once I have “all” the parts, I’ll get back into it further.

WMS game manuals from early machines are not good at documenting assemblies. You can often use later game manuals to get the information you need. High Speed probably uses this assembly but the manual doesn't list the actual outhole assembly reference number.

outhole_kicker_assembly.jpg

I don't believe in replacing parts without good evidence that the part is at fault. Since you have a logic probe, you should use it to absolutely verify the fault.

See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-club-dispatch-this-is-504-we-have-a-club-now-over/page/120#post-7932668 and the post following for more information.

When the software pulses the solenoid to enable it, the signal from the processor is sent to the 74LS374 latch. It should be a HIGH signal. The output from the latch is sent to the 7408 AND gate. BOTH inputs to the AND gate must be HIGH to enable a HIGH output. When the output from the AND gate is HIGH it causes the 2N4401 to "switch on" (conduct from the collector to the emitter). This causes the base of the TIP102 to go HIGH and "switch on". This energizes the solenoid. If all the signals are reading correctly then the problem is the TIP102 collector and emitter. If there is a problem with one of the signals then you have isolated the fault.

It's work to verify the location of the fault. Often, more work than most people are willing to do. Often, a shotgun approach is used. This can yield results but it is NOT systematic. It's an educated guess.

I initially got the correct pulses on 7408 as Grumpy indicated.

I then got Q29, pin 1 and 2 are low, pin 3 is high. Q33 I’m getting low on 1 and 3 and high on 2 and 4?

That caused questions as pin 3 of 7408 was correct, low/high, but pin 2 of Q29 was only reading low.

After repairing the loose solder connections

Now on U-20 I get low/high on pin 1, high on pin 2 AND 3. High on all pins of Q29. Since it’s now feeding back to pin 3 on U-20, I’m taking its bad? Next break I get I’ll attempt replacing Q-29 and Q-33, and try again.

That’s why at this point I’ll replace all 3 and test again. Unless you can recommend checking something else?

Also. Where the spring attaches to the outhole coil I have a c clip that’s not in the pic. Also that’s where my spring keeps coming off. Appears I need to correct that as well.

NOTE: The post below has been edited to correct the ordering of the TO-92 transistor. The old post (with the incorrect information) has NOT been preserved since it has no meaning due to the error.

Q33 is a TIP102. There are only 3 pins on this device. EDIT: I see pin 4 is the tab. I don't consider it a pin since there's no place for it on a PCB.

• U20-1 is inputA and connected to U28-2 which is the output of the 74LS374 latch (software controlled).
• U20-2 is inputB and connected to the ~BLANKING signal. Expect this to be high.
• U20-3 is output and connected to Q29-2 (base).

• Q29-1 is E (emitter). Expect this to be low unless the software is pulsing the solenoid active.
• Q29-2 is B (base). Expect this to be low unless the software is pulsing the solenoid active. It is electrically connected to U20-3.
• Q29-3 is C (collector). Expect this to be high.

• Q33-1 is B (base). Expect this to be low unless the software is pulsing the solenoid active. It is electrically connected to Q29-1.
• Q33-2 is C (collector). Expect this to be solenoid voltage (~40VDC). It is directly connected to solenoid voltage.
• Q33-3 is E (emitter). Expect this to be low (0V). It is directly connected to the ground on the board.

If Q29-2 (base) is always low this implies that the solenoid will never energize since the only way to energize the solenoid is to drive the base of Q29 (2N4401) high.

Since U20-1 is software controlled and you report as low and pulsed high on software control, this is expected. U20-3 is the output of the logic. It's logic state should match U20-1 since U20-2 is always high. If U20-3 does not change state (always high) then the logic processing of the 7408 has failed. Note that outside of game diagnostics, if U20-3 is still high then it has definitely failed because it should only go high under software control. It should be low (sinking current) when functioning correctly.

High on all pins of Q29 matches expected state given that U20-3 is high. Since the base of the 2N4401 is high, it is conducting (on). This means the emitter is high. The TIP102 should be conducting and the solenoid should be energized, i.e. you should have a locked on solenoid.

I don't see any benefit to doing this since, if U20 has failed replacing this won't change anything as Q29 (2N4401) and Q33 (TIP102) are under the direct control of U20-3 which appears to have failed.

• If you want, you can remove Q29 to isolate U20-3 to be 100% sure the 7408 is the problem.
• You can do a diode test on the 7408 to look for invalid values. Valid values does not mean the IC is correct. Invalid values mean the IC has failed.
• If there's another 7408 that has been socketed, you can remove that IC from the board and install it into U20. If you have an independent supply, you can also substitute to be sure. You can use a 74LS08 in a pinch but doing so will drive the IC close to its maximum ability to sink current. It's fine to use for a differential diagnosis.

That's mechanical. Just look at the assembly drawing and lookup the part numbers to make sure the assembly matches the drawing.

I know TIP122 and 102 are interchangeable, so your postings for pins above don’t match the images Grumpy sent me earlier and I was going by?

IMG_7854 (resized).png

IMG_7855 (resized).png

You're correct. For some reason I keep thinking that TO-92 is ECB (reversed of TO-220). It's not. It's EBC as you point out. Let me go back and edit (correct) the thought process in the post.

Thanks for the corrections. I’ve got 3 of these coming. I found one other 7408 on the board but it’s not on a socket. I’ll use one of the newer ones and replace the know bad transistors and go from there.

You mentioned diode testing the 7408. I have a DMM as well as a logic probe. If you can let me know how to diode test the 7408 and what I should expect, I can work on that tomorrow. Until my parts arrive, I don’t plan on pulling the board again.

Thanks again for everyone’s help.

There are SIX of the ICs used on the board. U17-U20 in solenoid 1-16 and U52-U53 in the lamp matrix strobes (columns).

Set your DMM to diode test. Place the RED lead on the ground pin (this is pin 7 or any digital ground point on the board). Then place the black lead on each (other) pin, one by one. You should get a valid diode reading (0.4V to 0.6V) on each pin. The exception will be pin 14 which is VCC/VDD. This typically reads around 0.2V.

I put a comment in bold above. Can you confirm that the solenoid does indeed lock on when you power on? Unless I've done an incorrect analysis, or the findings you have reported are incorrect, the solenoid should lock on since a failed 7408 causing a fixed high output to drive the base of the 2N4401 will lock on the solenoid. If the solenoid does not lock on then the analysis is incorrect or you have reported incorrect findings. Consistency is really important to validate an analysis / assessment.

Thank you for reading the information and responding to it. A fair number of times I post something trying to help someone and it is completely ignored.

I have read practically everything on this thread before the machine arrived. I tried to learn as much as I can. If by meaning “locked” on you mean in the “fired” position, then no. It only “fires” if you ground Q33 TIP122 on the 4th pin. Otherwise it never works.

I’ll do a diode test on the 7408 tomorrow and report the findings.

At this point if I could find a solid working board I might just buy a spare, but I also don’t want to ruin another if something is the cause of these failing as well. There are somethings that worked when I got it that don’t now (beacon when it should and switches 51 and 52) and something’s that didn’t that do now (knocker, sound, no more hum, pop bumpers, the left return solenoid, and upper flipper)

I appreciate all the help!

Locked on means the solenoid is constantly energized. This draws a large amount of current and will usually blow the solenoid fuse. It should blow the fuse. If it does not then it will generate a lot of heat and may even ignite board components.

It is possible that you have multiple failures on the board. The whole cascade from software command to actual solenoid energization must work in order for the solenoid to energize. The problem is that each failure masks subsequent failures so you usually only unmask each failure - in turn.

If U20-3 is high, Q29-2 is high and Q33-1 is high the solenoid should energize. If you read solenoid voltage (~40VDC) at pin 4 (the tab) then it's almost certainly that Q33-3 (emitter) is not connected to ground. You can verify this by testing continuity. Set the DMM to continuity and place one lead on the emitter leg and the other lead on solenoid ground. NOTE: On System 11 (nothing) boards, solenoid ground is isolated from the board (digital) ground. It connects at 1J13. You can insert the DMM lead into the IDC or Molex pin of the housing.

Okay. I can check that tomorrow as well. I figured ground was ground, so I didn’t realize there was a difference. I’m very familiar with checking voltages and continuity. Learning ohms and diodes with this. I just purchased the logic probe Grumpy recommended and I can “follow instructions”, but I don’t always immediately understand the results as it’s all new to me.

Ground is all at the same reference. At some point they are tied together (like neutral being tied to ground in your breaker box).

• In System 11 (nothing), solenoid ground is isolated from board ground. They are connected at the power supply.
• In System 11A (I think) and 11B/11C (for sure), solenoid ground is connected to board ground on the board.

This image is from a rendering of my reproduction board but it is the same for the OEM board.

system11_solenoid1-16_ground.jpg

There is a small solenoid ground copper pour on the OEM board on the component side (red traces in the image). It is common for poorly executed repairs to pull the through hole of the TO-220 that connects the emitter to the solenoid ground copper pour, thereby breaking continuity. This is what I highlighted in the image posted previously. To properly fix that, you need to either repair the through hole with a rivet/grommet or install a jumper wire (usually on the solder side of the board) to the emitter of another TO-220 that has continuity.

This is a full pic of the backside of my board. If you see anything that obviously needs to be repaired, please let me know.

IMG_7828 (resized).jpeg

That board looks mostly clean. There's evidence of prior work in some areas. Always suspect prior work. Even your own.

That is a System 11 (nothing) board. You can see the (big) isolated solenoid ground trace at 1J13 that runs all the way across the board to the special solenoid section and the flipper ground relay.

Okay. Following your instructions and placing red lead on ground and black on pins 1-14 I get zero on all? If I reverse and place black on ground and check this is what I get

Pin 1 = .567
Pin 2-4= flash as if no connection
Pin 5 = .298
Pin 6 = .208
Pin 7 = .006
Pin 8 = .216
Pin 9 = .194
Pin 10 = flash as if no connection
Pin 11 = .214
Pin 12 = .176
Pin 14-14 = flash as if no connection

I used the ground post, but trying on pin 7 I get the same results other than .006 on 7.

Okay. Doing as you suggest, I get 32VDC. Touching any of the 3 at 1J13 I have no continuity at the tab of pin 4 on Q33-3

Rechecking everything on Outhole coil test now shows

7408 Pin 1 low/high, Pin 2 high, Pin 3 high
Q29 all pins high
Q33 all pins high

So I’m taking this means there’s a ground issue on the board? If we believe that’s the case let me know exactly where I should try and install a repair wire or check continuity on the back side.

Also, it appears from your previous image there should be 4 wires on 1J13, but you only mentioned 3 and I only have 3? Are they in the correct locations?

IMG_7856 (resized).jpeg

Pin 7 is connected to the board ground. You should always read "short" (0V) on that pin.

I just did the test on a spare OEM System 11N board and everything reads as 0.4V-0.6V with my DMM on diode test. Red lead to ground (pin 7) and black lead on other pins.

To verify that you are measuring correctly, do this test with any of the other 7408 ICs (U17-U19) that are "known good" and confirm you get the correct results.

You should not have continuity. Q33-2 (and Q33-4 = the tab) are the collector. Q33-3 is the emitter. The transistor conducts (switched on) when Q33-1 (base) is high.

I sure hope you are not connecting the logic probe to the collector (at 32VDC). I would not advise doing that since the logic probe is really designed for TTL or CMOS voltage levels.

Your report of Q33 all pins high indicates that there is no path from Q33-3 (emitter) to the solenoid ground. See the above post with the image containing the red tracks. Measure continuity from Q33-3 to solenoid ground. Everything indicates there is a break. This indicates that you did NOT repair (or adequately repair) the continuity from Q33-3 (emitter) to solenoid ground. If you just put the pad back on the bottom of the board, that does NOT restore continuity. It just puts the pad closer to the board. The through hole is still gone. You need to restore continuity.

The issue is continuity from transistor emitter to ground. All the points indicated in red should be continuous with each other. Measure to verify.

solenoid_ground.jpg

Everything indicates you have a break in continuity from the top-right red dot (as indicated above).

It doesn't matter how many wires are in 1J13. They should all be black and are all continuous with each other. The more wires, the more current carrying (grounding) capacity. This leads back to the power supply board.

This is starting to make some sense. Maybe why my working beacon stopped working after I pulled the board and put it back. Probably lost a ground somewhere.

I started to check to make sure there was continuity on the case ground strap and noticed this below and wanted to see if they should be connected somewhere? The front of the case just under the playfield has continuity all the way to that bolt in front of the red arrow, but there is no continuity from there to the strap running up the side of the back box near the cpu board. Should there be and where are they supposed to connect?
IMG_7857 (resized).jpeg

Think I may have just answered my own question.

Just noticed this ground is “probably” supposed to be connected there as well (the one loose by my flashlight)? Can anyone confirm where that should be?

IMG_7858 (resized).jpeg

All the ground references are connected to the ground pin that comes in from the outlet. They may be separate as they traverse the machine but they are ultimately all connected together to maintain the same reference (to ground).

I would recommend focusing on one thing at a time. If you try to deal with multiple things then you'll have too many open issues and posts will become too confusing, too quickly.

I am constantly reminded of a line in a famous (now Disney) movie: "Stay on target!"

If you are uncertain then post a current image of the (solenoid 1-16 section of the) board. The only person who can see what's going on with the transistor is you, since it is in front of you and nobody else.

Ground braid is more often than not connected to a screw terminal and secured with a wing nut. Ground braids should always end up connected to other ground braid runs. After all the runs around the cabinet are connected, it ultimately connects at the power box. There should be a screw terminal at the power box or the braid will run under the power box which is screwed down. It is connected to the outlet ground by virtue of being connected to the power box.

Any exposed metal as part of the cabinet should be connected to some run of ground braid.

Thank you! Once I receive all the parts I ordered, I’ll pull the board again and check these out as well.

Thinking out loud. I will definitely check all this when I pull the board again, but in the meantime, if I unplug the 1J13 molex. Should those 4 pins have continuity to the board’s main ground post? Are ALL the grounds on the board supposed to be connected, or are some isolated from others?

Visual inspection is better than thinking out loud.

s11n_solenoid_ground.jpg

I appreciate the response. What you show there shows a clear trace (I believe that’s what you call it, to the special transistors (I believe that’s correct). The pic you sent earlier didn’t show traces which is why I posed the question. Thanks again. I will definitely check everything when I pull the board again.

IMG_7862 (resized).png

If you want to learn then you should learn to type things into a search box. If you type "pcb trace" you will get a lot of information that explains what is going on. If you don't want to learn then I will just stop posting because I'm here to pass knowledge on. Not troubleshoot for you.

There are plenty of articles. This one (https://www.wevolver.com/article/trace-pcb-a-comprehensive-guide) is just an example.

It didn't show them because they are on the component (front) side of the board.

00_solenoid1-16.jpg01_solenoid1-16.jpg

I showed the traces in the rendered image in the post @ https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-club-dispatch-this-is-504-we-have-a-club-now-over/page/121#post-7947809. Below are examples on a real board. Note the red arrow shows the actual connection from the copper pour to the TO-220 emitter. As I mentioned quite a few posts ago, if you simply put that "loose" pad on the solder back in place then you have not restored the continuity that was the copper trace from the pour to the TO-220 leg. You need to bridge that. The problem is that the pour is on the component side so you need to find an electrically connected point on the solder side if you want to install a jumper. Otherwise, you can use a stitch to restore the continuity. There are many ways to fix this. The only thing that matters is Q33-3 is electrically connected to solenoid ground. I think I have mentioned this at least THREE times now.

Okay. That makes sense now and I have plenty to check when the parts get here and I pull the board again. I should have looked at the top when I didn’t see traces on the bottom. I do appreciate your help.

Question - does anyone know if the speaker panel stainless steel trim pieces are available anywhere (not backglass trim - that is widely available).

Starting to build up parts for my HS restore and mine is bent a little bit and would like a nicer set. There is one little trim on the bottom and kind of a U or H channel on top of the speaker MDF panel.

Thanks to you and GRUMPY for the super helpful feedback....

I finally had some time to check a few things, and believe the contradiction noted above was likely due to mixing up the pins on U50 at some point. However, I did find that the new switch stack from PBL was in need of a little adjustment, and after doing that, I'm not having any issues with the coils heating up, so I think we've solved one issue.

Currently, at power on, U50-2 is reading about 0.1v with 1J18 connected OR disconnected (also had 1J19 disconnected). However, the pops are still pretty wacky, each triggering multiple switches. Here's the breakdown based on switch edge test (there may be more, but they flash on the screen quickly so I'm likely missing one or two):

Upper Left: Triggering left kicker, playfield tilt, out hole, LL Bank Red
Lower Left: Triggering right kicker, LL Bank Yellow
Right: triggering upper left star, right ramp

Also, the shooter lane switch is triggering 'upper right star' exclusively as far as I can tell

Looking at the switch matrix, I believe these circumstances indicate a short in the column 5 wiring. I attempted to trace this wiring and didn't find anything obviously shorted or any bad diodes. Are there any common points of failure to check under the playfield? Relays, caps, etc?

Update: going through the System 11 repair doc, I disconnected 1J8 and 1J10 and performed the Switch Edge test on each Row/Column using an alligator clip and jumping the pins of the two connectors using a diode on one end. I found that column 5 switches (33-40) are triggering the adjacent column 6 switches 45-48 and column 7 switches 49-52. (It also seemed to randomly show other switches in the row as being closed, but mostly adhered to the above behavior). Looking at the guide section called: 'Further Diagnosing of the Switch Matrix," I'm not exactly sure if my situation falls under one of the 8 listed scenarios, but it seems to most closely align with a short to ground in a row or column.

If you find a source, I am looking for one too. Thinking about modding this area and pulled one off my parts machine. It is a little rusty and it would be nice to have a pristine one.

eye thank ewe

zosofan

This describes a switch matrix problem on the CPU board. When you short one pin on 1J8 to one pin on 1J10 the switch edge test should only register a single switch. You can use switch levels as well but just keep the short active. It should still only register one switch as it cycles through the switch matrix state.

With multiple switches registering, you need to find the problem in that section. If you're comfortable doing that then follow the PinWiki article @ https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#Switch_problems and work through it. Odds are good it will be one of the 2N3904 TO-92 transistors.

Focus on fixing the switch matrix issue first before returning to the solenoid issue. It looks like you're using the switch edge test to verify solenoid functionality which is not the best way to go about it.