(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

8 years ago


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There are 5,095 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 102.
#1051 7 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

Joining the club! I picked up a beater a couple weeks ago.

....that has a new clear ramp on its way!!!

#1052 7 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

....that has a new clear ramp on its way!!!

Received, that thing is beautiful too.

pinballholder wants me to build a little hobo camp for under the ramp.

#1053 7 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

pinballholder wants me to build a little hobo camp for under the ramp.

I had that same idea. Hopefully I can visit a model shop over the weekend.

Please post photos of what you come up with.

#1054 7 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

Received, that thing is beautiful too.
pinballholder wants me to build a little hobo camp for under the ramp.

I would think a train model shop would have this sort of thing...

-mof

#1055 7 years ago

Yeah I envision a burned out car, barrel with flickering yellow light and wax paper to mimic fire, graffiti, shopping cart, the full works, LOL.

#1056 7 years ago

Tried installing a dk power tap on my rottendog power supply board. Wanted to get power for under cab LEDs. Game cuts out and does not want to start with power tap installed.

Disconnected power tap and game works fine. I'm contacting dk to see if I can return.
I'll come up with another method for 12vols.

#1057 7 years ago

Just put some superbands on my High Speed on the weekend and wow what a difference. I can easily make the left highway loop from the left flipper and make it all the way up the ramp with some of my more wonky-er shots.
Good thing I have it set to hard, I don't want to be setting new high scores all the time.

1 week later
#1058 7 years ago

I have a need to replace one of the BRs in my High Speed (one of the ones in the lower-right of the backbox, above the big capacitor). Anyone know which BR I should use? I see Pinball Life has two different ones for sale:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2723

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=411

#1059 7 years ago

If its one of the ones attached to the back box you should get one with the same lugs...

Great Plains Electronics has them. 400V 35A for $2.75

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=172

Part number GBPC3504L

#1060 7 years ago

Thanks Freeplay! I've placed my order.

#1061 7 years ago

High Speed upper right flipper has a sfl23600/30-2600 coil. Could use more power.

Did a complete rebuild kit, bushing, coil stop, eos, sleeve, plunger, installed bat with gap, followed vid's rebuild guide exactly, replaced flipper switch, etc.. I've put in a bunch rebuild kits in other games.

I want more power out of the coil. I'm at a point where I want to put in a bigger coil. What coil would be more powerful to get up ramp? Ramp is in great shape, cover not touching ball, everything is solid and lined up like new.

#1062 7 years ago
Quoted from TVP:

Could use more power.

What is causing you to want more power? That ramp shot is supposed to be difficult to hit, requiring just the right timing to get it up and over...

#1063 7 years ago
Quoted from TVP:

High Speed upper right flipper has a sfl23600/30-2600 coil. Could use more power.
Did a complete rebuild kit, bushing, coil stop, eos, sleeve, plunger, installed bat with gap, followed vid's rebuild guide exactly, replaced flipper switch, etc.. I've put in a bunch rebuild kits in other games.
I want more power out of the coil. I'm at a point where I want to put in a bigger coil. What coil would be more powerful to get up ramp? Ramp is in great shape, cover not touching ball, everything is solid and lined up like new.

That is the proper coil that is supposed to be there I believe. It is a difficult shot. A higher power coil will cause more problems there than what it is worth, imo

#1064 7 years ago

I'm in the middle of shopping my HS.

All 3 flippers had FL11630 coils.

I've rebuilt all of them and installed the proper ones.

On top of that, I swapped out all of the flipper coil bases. I had some lying around from an F-14 I had parted out. These bases have the taller EOS switch brackets.

Now all of the flipper coil assemblies will have the WPC style return springs.

All of the under playfield coil assemblies have been rebuilt. Now it's time to start attacking the upper side of the playfield.

#1065 7 years ago

I just rebuilt my HS flippers using the newer style return springs and it is night and day. The ball just launches off of them. I bought 3 new bases with everything but the coil, sleeve and capacitor from action pinball for $31 each

#1066 7 years ago

My HS flipper assemblies didn't have any capacitors...but then again, it also had FL11630 coils installed.

#1067 7 years ago

The caps help arrest the spark from the eos switches. It doesn't add power but preserves the life and power of the new switch

#1068 7 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

The caps help arrest the spark from the eos switches. It doesn't add power but preserves the life and power of the new switch

All of my flipper assembly bases had the short EOS mounting brackets. All of the system 11 machines that I've seen always had the taller EOS brackets and the caps were wire-tied to it, above the EOS.

It might be fun to watch when I finally get my machine re-assembled.

Another thing I noticed, the FL11630 flipper coils each had 2 diodes, where the sfl23600/30-2600 coil only has 1. I re-soldered the wires to the the proper coils I installed.

I hope the wiring was correct, or sparks might fly out of the backbox.

#1069 7 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

All of my flipper assembly bases had the short EOS mounting brackets. All of the system 11 machines that I've seen always had the taller EOS brackets and the caps were wire-tied to it, above the EOS.
It might be fun to watch when I finally get my machine re-assembled.
Another thing I noticed, the FL11630 flipper coils each had 2 diodes, where the sfl23600/30-2600 coil only has 1. I re-soldered the wires to the the proper coils I installed.
I hope the wiring was correct, or sparks might fly out of the backbox.

The fl11630 is a parallel coil, and the sfl is a series wound. There is a specific way to wire when going from a series wound to a parallel wound flipper.

Eos switch goes to the center lug, and the outside Non-banded lug.
Capacitor goes to the eos lugs
The main power wire goes to the outside banded lug, and the other wire goes to the opposite outside lug. If you get these wrong by accident it will blow a fuse and the flipper won't work. Swap wires, and replace fuse.

#1070 7 years ago
Quoted from pinballholder:

What is causing you to want more power? That ramp shot is supposed to be difficult to hit, requiring just the right timing to get it up and over...

I can hit star trek upper right flipper warp 9.x every game. I can hit spiderman upper right flipper 15x per game. Getting the upper right flipper up the ramp on HS is once every 15 games. Ball shooter runs up every time. I don't know what's up.

#1071 7 years ago
Quoted from TVP:

I can hit Star Trek upper right flipper warp 9.x every game. I can hit spiderman upper right flipper 15x per game. Getting the upper right flipper up the ramp on HS is once every 15 games. Ball shooter runs up every time. I don't know what's up.

No offense, but it could be your timing. I am assuming the flipper is lined up properly so the ball flows smoothly off of it. I can hit my ramp on HS about 80% of the time, but can't hit the fault shot on es for the life of me.

All a more powerful coil will do is break the plastics, the ramp, bend the targets, etc...if the proper coil is in there, verify your flipper is lined up right, and practice!

#1072 7 years ago
Quoted from TVP:

I can hit Star Trek upper right flipper warp 9.x every game. I can hit spiderman upper right flipper 15x per game. Getting the upper right flipper up the ramp on HS is once every 15 games. Ball shooter runs up every time. I don't know what's up.

Ha, yeah I can totally sympathize. I was horrendous with the upper flipper for awhile and swore up and down that something was wrong. And there was, I didn't know how to use it properly, lol. After a few weeks I finally got my grove with it and I can now hit it 33%-50% of the time if I am on a roll.

That being said, there definitely could be something amiss physically. Ramp alignment, damaged ramp, angle of playfield, etc etc. Try popping of the glass and just practicing the upper shot over and over again. Is the ball getting up the ramp and dying and rolling back or is it hitting the ramp and bouncing out? Try to see if you can pinpoint if it's the trajectory, the power, angle or what.

I definitely have days where I can walk up and miss that ramp a bunch of times in a row, usually after I have logged some serious time with another pin and my reflexes are off.

#1073 7 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

No offense, but it could be your timing. I am assuming the flipper is lined up properly so the ball flows smoothly off of it. I can hit my ramp on HS about 80% of the time, but can't hit the fault shot on es for the life of me.
All a more powerful coil will do is break the plastics, the ramp, bend the targets, etc...if the proper coil is in there, verify your flipper is lined up right, and practice!

Thanks for the reply. I have ~1k plays on it over the past two years. You get 80% and I get .03% so that is where I am at.

I noticed that with the right cabinet flipper button, the upper flipper is the left most switch of the dual cabinet flipper switch - upper right then lower right when depressed slowly.

It just seems very weak.

#1074 7 years ago

The only thing I can think of is the coil getting the proper voltage. Would low voltage cause the coil to be weak? I'm new at this kind of stuff so it's probably a dumb question.

#1075 7 years ago

For the weak flipper - it's not the gapping of the EOS, is it? If the gap is too small, the high power of the coil will cut out sooner than you'd want it to.

Also, are you always attempting ramp shots from balls coming out of the saucer? I have a really hard time with those (because the kickout is always a little different and balls don't hug the rail). However, shots into the left orbit, and all the way around to the right are *much* easier to shoot into the ramp.

#1076 7 years ago
Quoted from TVP:

Thanks for the reply. I have ~1k plays on it over the past two years. You get 80% and I get .03% so that is where I am at.
I noticed that with the right cabinet flipper button, the upper flipper is the left most switch of the dual cabinet flipper switch - upper right then lower right when depressed slowly.
It just seems very weak.

Your cab switch layout is correct. If gapped properly you should be able to activate the lower flipper without activating the upper flipper with a light enough touch on the button. Check the cab flipper switch for pitting and make sure it is cleaned and gapped properly.

#1077 7 years ago

How a

Quoted from TVP:

Thanks for the reply. I have ~1k plays on it over the past two years. You get 80% and I get .03% so that is where I am at.
I noticed that with the right cabinet flipper button, the upper flipper is the left most switch of the dual cabinet flipper switch - upper right then lower right when depressed slowly.
It just seems very weak.

How are your posts at the ramp entry laid out? Straight up down and positioned where they should be? Too close = no entry...

#1078 7 years ago

Here is a picture of my flipper coils. The lower flippers are fine.

The manual states fl23/600-30/2600 for all three flippers.

The lower left is a fl-11630. The lower right is fl11629. The upper right is sfl23600.

The pinballmedic coil chart says that the 11630 is a standard Williams flipper strength coil used on almost all system 11 machines. It says the 11629 is a stronger flipper. Both of these flippers have the same strength during gameplay. A good hit produces a nice smooth loop shot that is not over powering.

When I look at the upper flipper coil it is noticeable narrower than the lower two flipper coils. The overall coil width is 1" compared to 1.5" on the lower coils.

The EOS switch only opens up as the flipper nears end of travel. It does not open early.

Thoughts?

lower.jpg upper.jpg
#1079 7 years ago

I replaced the upper sfl23600 flipper coil with a 11630 from a different machine and I can now make the ramp with no problems.

I think I may get a 11630 and permanently leave it up there.?.?

#1080 7 years ago
Quoted from pinballYeti:

I have a need to replace one of the BRs in my High Speed (one of the ones in the lower-right of the backbox, above the big capacitor).

After removing the old BR, I see that there appears to be some (highly degraded) thermal compound on the BR. I'm assuming that I need to add some to the new BR before I install it? Any suggestions on what I should use (CPU paste, thermal pad)?

#1081 7 years ago
Quoted from pinballYeti:

After removing the old BR, I see that there appears to be some (highly degraded) thermal compound on the BR. I'm assuming that I need to add some to the new BR before I install it? Any suggestions on what I should use (CPU paste, thermal pad)?

That's heat sink paste. Should be able to get some at Radio Shack. It's there to insure thermal conductivity to the back box for cooling.

#1082 7 years ago

Do not use anything with silver or arctic silver. You will fry it

2 weeks later
#1083 7 years ago

Question -- I'm doing a PF swap over here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-restoration

I'm low on a few pics -- can anyone point me to their tear down pics, specifically for the lower sling GI?

Also -- what about this pic -- do you have a T-nut here? My CPR PF strangely has a hole here not quite wide enough for a T-nut. I haven't had to alter *any* holes yet for T-nuts, so this didn't add up for me.

thanks!
-mof

201412-HS-strange-T-nut.jpg

1 week later
#1086 7 years ago

We did some bitchin mods to the high speed, added a bucket seat, steering wheel, red wagon, including handle, and some pedals, hope y'all enjoy

343904.jpg
#1087 7 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

We did some bitchin mods to the High Speed, added a bucket seat, steering wheel, red wagon, including handle, and some pedals, hope y'all enjoy

343904.jpg 18 KB

Need to take that to one of the shows! Steve Richie would love it.

#1088 7 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

We did some bitchin mods to the High Speed, added a bucket seat, steering wheel, red wagon, including handle, and some pedals, hope y'all enjoy

343904.jpg 18 KB

Nice....you could use it when you go to shows to haul around all the stuff you bought.

#1089 7 years ago

Once I get my Checkpoint all 100% I am heavily considering modding it by adding the Porsche 'Carrera' script to the top front of the head. Probably the shield emblem to the coin door or under the start key as well.
I was considering the same for my High Speed.
The question is: That kinda looks like a Lambo on the backglass. Is it an artist rendition of an actual car or just something somewhat close but not a real car.
Then both my machines could have some simple appearance mods.

#1090 7 years ago
Quoted from BMHouze:

Once I get my Checkpoint all 100% I am heavily considering modding it by adding the Porsche 'Carrera' script to the top front of the head. Probably the shield emblem to the coin door or under the start key as well.
I was considering the same for my High Speed.
The question is: That kinda looks like a Lambo on the backglass. Is it an artist rendition of an actual car or just something somewhat close but not a real car.
Then both my machines could have some simple appearance mods.

Something somewhat close to a Countach, but not the real thing

#1091 7 years ago

Hey guys I have to leave the club, sold it and was picked up about an hour ago. Buyer was super impressed with the condition and was very happy to take it home. So carry on and I'll see ya on the flip side.

#1092 7 years ago
Quoted from BMHouze:

I was considering the same for my High Speed.
The question is: That kinda looks like a Lambo on the backglass. Is it an artist rendition of an actual car or just something somewhat close but not a real car.

Python Angelo did the backglass he has referred to that car as a Maserati I can't say if it is or not, but it is not a "Lambo". On the playfield and cabinet a Lamborghini Countach is depicted, Mark Sprenger did the art those.

1 week later
#1093 7 years ago

Now that I have a CPR PF installed, this thing plays so freakin' accurately. My scores are going way up...

What are some good ways to increase the difficulty of the game?

I already moved the two right posts wide right, and that doesn't seem to be impacting the game play much.

-mof

#1094 7 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Now that I have a CPR PF installed, this thing plays so freakin' accurately. My scores are going way up...
What are some good ways to increase the difficulty of the game?
I already moved the two right posts wide right, and that doesn't seem to be impacting the game play much.
-mof

Well, you could swap your CPR playfield for my crappy original.
Assume you have tried changing the difficulty adjustments.
Have you tried increasing the slope?

Wish I was a good enough player to have your concerns.

#1095 7 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Well, you could swap your CPR playfield for my crappy original.
Assume you have tried changing the difficulty adjustments.
Have you tried increasing the slope?
Wish I was a good enough player to have your concerns.

I have not changed the settings -- I typically leave all games on medium. I was wondering what settings are good to manipulate that help make the game more tough?

-mof

#1096 7 years ago

I have mine set to hard and it ramps up. Not getting a 'free' stoplight for completing the ramp. Having to re-light the kickback. it adds up. I am pretty sure it also lowers the amount of time to get the spinner to advance the ramp values and light extra ball.

#1097 7 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I already moved the two right posts wide right, and that doesn't seem to be impacting the game play much.
-mof

I've recently noticed that on my machine - there are circles drawn on the playfield where the right outlane posts could be repositioned to...but no actual holes. Anyone else have this?

Quoted from BMHouze:

I have mine set to hard and it ramps up. Not getting a 'free' stoplight for completing the ramp. Having to re-light the kickback. it adds up. I am pretty sure it also lowers the amount of time to get the spinner to advance the ramp values and light extra ball.

There is also a setting so that the saucer doesn't spot a free light.

#1098 7 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

I've recently noticed that on my machine - there are circles drawn on the playfield where the right outlane posts could be repositioned to...but no actual holes. Anyone else have this?

There is also a setting so that the saucer doesn't spot a free light.

LoL I had no idea saucer spotted a light.
-mof

#1099 7 years ago

Yeah, hard mode and the saucer doesn't spot you a light.
I missed that one.

#1100 7 years ago

Going to been looking at one this weekend. The ball eject is not strong enough to reach the shooter lane. Any ideas what it could be? Looks like a cool game.

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