(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

10 years ago


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#5901 88 days ago
Quoted from pevo:

Layman's observation here. As i got a Highspeed project im having to send the RD MPU off because of sound issues...Anyways i cant give any suggestions on your current issues...but you do need to do a Preventive maintenance Mod on the two power rectifier's under the power supply board. They need 8 amp slo-blow fuses installed on the AC side incoming wiring...total of 2. Im sure theres numerous posts on this and i know on youtube too. Joe's classic video game repair has one i referenced before for my williams f-14. sys 11

I’ve heard about that mod. I will have to remember to ask my repairman about that when he services it. Thank you.

My sound issues was a loose wire and missing screws on all the boards. Correcting both resolved those issues. I’ve read RD both have had sound issues due to transistors they used. I’ll have this one rebuilt again IF I have too.

#5902 88 days ago
Quoted from R23HTC:

When they stop working though, you can’t even make them work if you push them together, use a screw driver to make contact with both, nothing works.

Don't use a screwdriver on the blades, use a jumper wire on the wires. If the switch reports in test every time, then replace the diode or the switch or both. If it doesn't work every time with the jumper then you have a continuity issue somewhere, like a wire broken but the insulation is intact, cracked solder joint on a header pin, bad connection in the IDC connector or a wire hanging on by one strand on the switch down the line.

Quoted from R23HTC:

As far as the Motherboard, I was told it was a recent rebuild.

This kind of stuff works and then it doesn't, that's life. You fix it a go on with life.

Quoted from R23HTC:

I don’t know the name of the one below the power supply? Please correct me if I’m wrong.

This is the flipper power supply.

Quoted from R23HTC:

I didn’t expect board issues (and I passes boot test…..though now it’s indicating the star switches both left and right need adjustment).

The CPU booting doesn't mean there is nothing wrong with the game, it means the CPU booted correctly. Now for switches 51/52 showing up in the diagnostics doesn't always mean they need adjusting. You need to look at things in common with these two switches. There are four switches, one wire, one connector and one transistor in common. I would put the game switch test, remove the balls and then test all four switches. Now if switches 49/50 report working to the cpu board then you look at the two bad switches, but if 49/50 don't report correctly you need to look at the things in common for the problem. That is how you start your troubleshooting on this.

Cap hs (resized).PNGCap hs (resized).PNG
#5903 88 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Don't use a screwdriver on the blades, use a jumper wire on the wires. If the switch reports in test every time, then replace the diode or the switch or both. If it doesn't work every time with the jumper then you have a continuity issue somewhere, like a wire broken but the insulation is intact, cracked solder joint on a header pin, bad connection in the IDC connector or a wire hanging on by one strand on the switch down the line.

This kind of stuff works and then it doesn't, that's life. You fix it a go on with life.

This is the flipper power supply.

The CPU booting doesn't mean there is nothing wrong with the game, it means the CPU booted correctly. Now for switches 51/52 showing up in the diagnostics doesn't always mean they need adjusting. You need to look at things in common with these two switches. There are four switches, one wire, one connector and one transistor in common. I would put the game switch test, remove the balls and then test all four switches. Now if switches 49/50 report working to the cpu board then you look at the two bad switches, but if 49/50 don't report correctly you need to look at the things in common for the problem. That is how you start your troubleshooting on this.
[quoted image]

Thanks again! It’s starting to look like I may end up doing everything myself. Thought I had a decent repairman setup, but responses were great before I bought the game. As soon as I received it, I tried scheduling an appointment and it’s been increasing more difficult to get any response since. It appears anyone in the area that’s any good is back up for months. If I can’t get it worked on before Christmas I may just attempt everything myself. About ready to fly Grumpy to TX.

#5904 88 days ago

Anyone recently upgraded their speakers on High Speed - thinking about doing this - seems hard to justify a Pinball Pro kit for this game.

There are posts on upgrading the sound for this game but the posts are pretty old. I have original factory speakers and seems like this game could benefit with an upgrade.

#5905 87 days ago

I just played a game of High Speed to make sure it survived Thanksgiving. Discovered the two flashers on the right side of the playfield aren’t working. I’ll check the bulbs later tonight.

#5906 87 days ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Anyone recently upgraded their speakers on High Speed - thinking about doing this - seems hard to justify a Pinball Pro kit for this game.
There are posts on upgrading the sound for this game but the posts are pretty old. I have original factory speakers and seems like this game could benefit with an upgrade.</bloc

Anyone recently upgraded their speakers on High Speed - thinking about doing this - seems hard to justify a Pinball Pro kit for this game.
There are posts on upgrading the sound for this game but the posts are pretty old. I have original factory speakers and seems like this game could benefit with an upgrade.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/looking-to-upgrade-speakers-on-williams-f-14-questions-#post-7627144 this is what I did with my Ff-14. Only difference with HS is one 4×10 up top...vs 2 5.5in up top. Its the 6.5 sub and mono amp is what makes any difference. I can't see spending more than what I did for upgrade

#5907 87 days ago

So....

My High Speed has been down for a couple of years and I decided that I should start working on it.

The bridge rectifiers have never had fuses added to them, so I figure this will be an easy place to start.

I installed my fuse holders, made some jumper wires and go to pull the wires off of the bridge rectifiers.

I am pulling and pulling and they will not come off.

I get out the camera to get a better look and found this:

The previous owner soldered the push on connectors to the bridge rectifiers.

IMG_7064 (resized).jpgIMG_7064 (resized).jpg
#5908 87 days ago
Quoted from zosofan:

So....
My High Speed has been down for a couple of years and I decided that I should start working on it.
The bridge rectifiers have never had fuses added to them, so I figure this will be an easy place to start.
I installed my fuse holders, made some jumper wires and go to pull the wires off of the bridge rectifiers.
I am pulling and pulling and they will not come off.
I get out the camera to get a better look and found this:
The previous owner soldered the push on connectors to the bridge rectifiers.
[quoted image]

I believe that the soldered Bridges was done at factory , as mine too where like this ,unless the same person owned both machines

#5909 87 days ago
Quoted from Dicky:

I believe that the soldered Bridges was done at factory , as mine too where like this ,unless the same person owned both machines

They're all like that, they're soldered on my Pinbot too, so it's a System 11 thing. Would have made adding the fuses so much easier if they weren't soldered, but whatcha gonna do.

#5910 87 days ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

I just played a game of High Speed to make sure it survived Thanksgiving. Discovered the two flashers on the right side of the playfield aren’t working. I’ll check the bulbs later tonight.

Resolved. One of the big flasher bulbs came loose. Got it back in abs the right side playfield flashers are working fine.

#5911 87 days ago
Quoted from pevo:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/looking-to-upgrade-speakers-on-williams-f-14-questions-#post-7627144 this is what I did with my Ff-14. Only difference with HS is one 4×10 up top...vs 2 5.5in up top. Its the 6.5 sub and mono amp is what makes any difference. I can't see spending more than what I did for upgrade

Thanks - I will see if I can get the right kind of speakers like you mentioned

#5912 87 days ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Resolved. One of the big flasher bulbs came loose. Got it back in abs the right side playfield flashers are working fine.

So if one doesn’t work, the rest won’t?

#5913 87 days ago
Quoted from R23HTC:

So if one doesn’t work, the rest won’t?

Space Shuttle through High Speed lamps are #63 bulbs.
Pinbot has notice tags of changed bulbs.
Note:
Early Williams flashers in this time period are wired in series. So, when one bulb fails
the other bulb will not work. Williams changed circuity to parallel wiring with later games
as well as bulb design to #89.

#5914 87 days ago
Quoted from pevo:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/looking-to-upgrade-speakers-on-williams-f-14-questions-#post-7627144 this is what I did with my Ff-14. Only difference with HS is one 4×10 up top...vs 2 5.5in up top. Its the 6.5 sub and mono amp is what makes any difference. I can't see spending more than what I did for upgrade

Did you do anything for the factory cab speaker being 4 ohms and the new speaker being 8?

#5915 86 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Did you do anything for the factory cab speaker being 4 ohms and the new speaker being 8?

Typically running 8ohms in place of 4ohms will cut your amp output...so you may have to turn volume up a bit more to compensate. However your amp will run a bit cooler. Your biggest improvement will be from the additional amp for the sub. And the ability to use both the factory volume and the amp volume to tweak your overall desired volume...ie more base cabinet sound vs. Voice and other effects from the backbox speaker. The efficiency rating of the speakers is more what I looked for. That is the speaker being able to produce desired output without requiring a huge amount of wattage to drive it.

Thats why on car systems simply replacing toasted factory speakers with high wattage rated aftermarket speakers will sound crappy...unless you add an additional amp.

#5916 86 days ago
Quoted from pevo:

Typically running 8ohms in place of 4ohms will cut your amp output...so you may have to turn volume up a bit more to compensate. However your amp will run a bit cooler. Your biggest improvement will be from the additional amp for the sub. And the ability to use both the factory volume and the amp volume to tweak your overall desired volume...ie more base cabinet sound vs. Voice and other effects from the backbox speaker. The efficiency rating of the speakers is more what I looked for. That is the speaker being able to produce desired output without requiring a huge amount of wattage to drive it.
Thats why on car systems simply replacing toasted factory speakers with high wattage rated aftermarket speakers will sound crappy...unless you add an additional amp.

Good info, thanks.

#5917 86 days ago

Always fun getting the high score. I reset the high scores for Thanksgiving guests and nobody even came close to getting in the top 4.

#5918 85 days ago

Going to be replacing plastics, are there any nicer standoffs I could use instead of these riveted metal ones?

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#5919 85 days ago
Quoted from Crimcyan:

Going to be replacing plastics, are there any nicer standoffs I could use instead of these riveted metal ones?
[quoted image]

How about these?

https://www.robtune.com/product/tree-trunk-spacers/

#5920 85 days ago

I'm planning on picking up some of those, but the ones I'm looking for are on the flipper guides, so wont work there.
I might see if the plastic ones on my rollergames would work next time im out at the location.

#5921 84 days ago
Quoted from R23HTC:

I’ve heard about that mod. I will have to remember to ask my repairman about that when he services it. Thank you.
My sound issues was a loose wire and missing screws on all the boards. Correcting both resolved those issues. I’ve read RD both have had sound issues due to transistors they used. I’ll have this one rebuilt again IF I have too.

pevo Repairman actually was aware of this mod and recommended this instead. Considering the age, I’m going to go this route.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=Inkochnito

IMG_7738 (resized).pngIMG_7738 (resized).png
#5922 83 days ago

Anyone have a 4 digit display they could sell?

#5924 82 days ago

That appears it only eliminates 1 rectifier. You’d need 2 and the one I posted also eliminates the large capacitor. I’ll be sticking with the one from Marco. Thanks!

#5925 82 days ago
Quoted from R23HTC:

That appears it only eliminates 1 rectifier. You’d need 2 and the one I posted also eliminates the large capacitor. I’ll be sticking with the one from Marco. Thanks!

I love Marco, but several places sell the Inkochnito board. Big Daddy is the least expensive that I've seen.

https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/BridgeBoard.html

#5926 80 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Don't use a screwdriver on the blades, use a jumper wire on the wires. If the switch reports in test every time, then replace the diode or the switch or both. If it doesn't work every time with the jumper then you have a continuity issue somewhere, like a wire broken but the insulation is intact, cracked solder joint on a header pin, bad connection in the IDC connector or a wire hanging on by one strand on the switch down the line.

This kind of stuff works and then it doesn't, that's life. You fix it a go on with life.

This is the flipper power supply.

The CPU booting doesn't mean there is nothing wrong with the game, it means the CPU booted correctly. Now for switches 51/52 showing up in the diagnostics doesn't always mean they need adjusting. You need to look at things in common with these two switches. There are four switches, one wire, one connector and one transistor in common. I would put the game switch test, remove the balls and then test all four switches. Now if switches 49/50 report working to the cpu board then you look at the two bad switches, but if 49/50 don't report correctly you need to look at the things in common for the problem. That is how you start your troubleshooting on this.
[quoted image]

Another dumb question. Since the Thanksgiving holiday I haven’t had time to look back into this. When I cleaned it though I noticed 2 sets of switch’s on the left and right kick outs. One on the sides and one on the bottom of the playfield (the right side one hangs sometimes). What does each one do so when I “test” I’m know which is “supposed” to be doing what.

#5927 74 days ago

Hi all. Could use some help. Recently acquired a High Speed and it has no background music. I get no bong on startup also I have another working cpu which I swapped to confirm problem lies with the sound board. I did find that the Q1 transistor was bad and replaced it along with caps C2,C3,C9 that I had on hand. It still didn't work. On further investigation I found that pin 13 on the 1408 DAC is not reading any voltage. I am not sure, but I thought it should be 5V. Does this confirm that 1408 is bad? I am fairly new to repairing boards so any help would be greatly appreciated.

#5928 74 days ago

Hi all. Looking for some help. Recently acquired High Speed that has the background music missing. Get no bong on startup also I have a working cpu that I swapped and get the same to confirm the issue lies with the soundboard. The Q1 transistor was bad so I replaced it. I swapped U5 with a working one, replaced C2,C3,C4 caps which I had on hand. Reseated all connectors, ribbon cable and rom. Tested for power at j3 getting correct volts. I did notice when I put DM to the leads on C3 cap i am not seeing voltage. I'm fairly new to board repair so any help would be greatly appreciated

#5929 74 days ago
Quoted from R23HTC:

Another dumb question. Since the Thanksgiving holiday I haven’t had time to look back into this. When I cleaned it though I noticed 2 sets of switch’s on the left and right kick outs. One on the sides and one on the bottom of the playfield (the right side one hangs sometimes). What does each one do so when I “test” I’m know which is “supposed” to be doing what.

What you need to know is the machine is blind, it can only tell where the balls are by the switches. If there are two switches in a line like that it is to check for two balls or for ball timing.

As far as the one switch that hangs sometimes, you need to find out if it's rubbing on something or if the switch is bad and correct the issue.

#5930 74 days ago
Quoted from mrbvp1:

Hi all. Could use some help. Recently acquired a High Speed and it has no background music. I get no bong on startup also I have another working cpu which I swapped to confirm problem lies with the sound board. I did find that the Q1 transistor was bad and replaced it along with caps C2,C3,C9 that I had on hand. It still didn't work. On further investigation I found that pin 13 on the 1408 DAC is not reading any voltage. I am not sure, but I thought it should be 5V. Does this confirm that 1408 is bad? I am fairly new to repairing boards so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Your on the right track with pin 13 not having 5 volts. Does this confirm the DAC is bad? No, look for a bad trace or a cracked via.

#5931 73 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

What you need to know is the machine is blind, it can only tell where the balls are by the switches. If there are two switches in a line like that it is to check for two balls or for ball timing.
As far as the one switch that hangs sometimes, you need to find out if it's rubbing on something or if the switch is bad and correct the issue.

It was mid-aligned. I believe that corrected that issue. As you indicated, “timing” is the only thing I can think of as I don’t believe 2 balls should ever be there at the same time?

Pic of the location on the right side.

It’s my crazy time at work so I won’t get another chance to look at it until Christmas. I was hoping to have it shopped by now but my original contact just disappeared. I have the best tech in the area scheduled to look at it, but he’s so backed up the appointment isn’t until May 20th.

Once it’s shopped and working correctly, I’ll probably start buying the tools to work on it myself. Eventually I’ll probably invest in a 2nd MPU so if one goes bad I can try working on it knowing I have a working one for backup.

I have a DMM (though I may need to invest in a better one), I know you indicated a logic probe would be good. What soldering and de-soldering (solder sucker?) would you recommend? Also got a set of switch adjusting tools. Any other tool recommendations?

IMG_7780 (resized).jpegIMG_7780 (resized).jpeg
#5932 73 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Your on the right track with pin 13 not having 5 volts. Does this confirm the DAC is bad? No, look for a bad trace or a cracked via.

Yea I was wrong on that. I double checked it I think it was on the wrong pin. It does have 5 volts. I did notice when I put DM to the leads on C3 cap i am not seeing voltage. Thanks for reply Grumpy

#5933 73 days ago
Quoted from R23HTC:

It was mid-aligned. I believe that corrected that issue. As you indicated, “timing” is the only thing I can think of as I don’t believe 2 balls should ever be there at the same time?
Pic of the location on the right side.
It’s my crazy time at work so I won’t get another chance to look at it until Christmas. I was hoping to have it shopped by now but my original contact just disappeared. I have the best tech in the area scheduled to look at it, but he’s so backed up the appointment isn’t until May 20th.
Once it’s shopped and working correctly, I’ll probably start buying the tools to work on it myself. Eventually I’ll probably invest in a 2nd MPU so if one goes bad I can try working on it knowing I have a working one for backup.
I have a DMM (though I may need to invest in a better one), I know you indicated a logic probe would be good. What soldering and de-soldering (solder sucker?) would you recommend? Also got a set of switch adjusting tools. Any other tool recommendations?[quoted image]

I like using a nice fishing tackle box as a tool/parts box.

https://www.amazon.com/Plano-728001-Angled-Tackle-System/dp/B006PKXVAA

Temperture controled soldering iron.

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjBrfen74KDAxWxXkcBHcHWBZ8YABAZGgJxdQ&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAiAvdCrBhBREiwAX6-6Usexu80ek50s2_kcKa4aQ9NxpXsl80qd_09iRdjq40T2LwvKI3EXBBoC6cAQAvD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVuD2TgcBzLI4VDuoqE2zxVe4vcG0c3ianZti6oJJuIViOwD95xHAzOE-Shkpo7zZb-qDfMg4N4d4mbXMX6w0kgqhQvQLkwFz_fLDOiTJnbSXiQQZeHgd&sig=AOD64_0jq-f_ctm_XKCqRF2plsSBB0rdpw&ctype=5&q=&nis=4&ved=2ahUKEwi6ku-n74KDAxVik4kEHQRLBPcQww8oAnoECAQQew&adurl=

Solder sucker.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/OWSOO-Solder-Sucker-Desoldering-Pump-Manual-Solder-Remover-Tool-Soldering-Iron-Desoldering-Tool-Powerful-Suction/3693250610

#5934 73 days ago

In need of a working player four display.
If anyone has one they are willing to sell.
Thanks in advance .
freddy

#5935 73 days ago
Quoted from mrbvp1:

Yea I was wrong on that. I double checked it I think it was on the wrong pin. It does have 5 volts. I did notice when I put DM to the leads on C3 cap i am not seeing voltage. Thanks for reply Grumpy

You wont see a voltage as this is a audio signal at this point. You would need to use a O scope to see the wave form.

#5936 68 days ago

Anyone know where to get a replacement beacon mech? The reproduction ones show out of stock

#5937 68 days ago
Quoted from Crimcyan:

Anyone know where to get a replacement beacon mech? The reproduction ones show out of stock

I'm going after market on mine. ( pin had beacon missing when I bought it.) I'll either go back with a 12v rotating beacon or a red and blue LED light bar. Search amazon

#5938 68 days ago
Quoted from pevo:

I'm going after market on mine. ( pin had beacon missing when I bought it.) I'll either go back with a 12v rotating beacon or a red and blue LED light bar. Search amazon

I was looking at aftermarket ones but I couldn't find any that really liked the look of, I found most orginal parts from various sellers so I think I might just try collecting all parts individually

#5939 68 days ago
Quoted from Crimcyan:

Anyone know where to get a replacement beacon mech? The reproduction ones show out of stock

Are you referring to this one?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/14-7939

#5940 68 days ago

Question is whether it's just the motor or the whole mech:

beacon (resized).jpgbeacon (resized).jpg
#5941 68 days ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

Question is whether it's just the motor or the whole mech:[quoted image]

This is what i was referring to. Im betting a person could gut this unit, git rid of the black base...and mount the mechs flush with cabinet with the dome sitting level with top of cab.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#5942 67 days ago

I have this sort of thing on my Getaway (My High Speed has the original) the only thing I would say is they are normally plastic cogged grinding noise cheap mecs, you can hear over the pinball sound.

#5943 67 days ago
Quoted from nutty:

I have this sort of thing on my Getaway (My High Speed has the original) the only thing I would say is they are normally plastic cogged grinding noise cheap mecs, you can hear over the pinball sound.

Quoted from nutty:

I have this sort of thing on my Getaway (My High Speed has the original) the only thing I would say is they are normally plastic cogged grinding noise cheap mecs, you can hear over the pinball sound.

Im probably going something like these. Low profile

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#5944 67 days ago

Thanks RobF

Arrived today to the UK, Top Quality Many Thanks
photo_8328292112724354603 (resized).jpgphoto_8328292112724354603 (resized).jpg

#5945 66 days ago
Quoted from nutty:

Thanks RobF
Arrived today to the UK, Top Quality Many Thanks
[quoted image]

Yay, it made it! I really hope you like it in your game.

#5946 66 days ago

Would like to disassemble the coin door and paint over the holidays. Anything I need to be aware of/watch out for? The lock was drilled out previously and I’ve got a non-key lock replacement to install afterwards.

IMG_7734 (resized).jpegIMG_7734 (resized).jpeg
#5947 65 days ago

Doing a hardtop and found some of my inserts full of micro cracks, should I replace or leave them as is?

20231216_144816 (resized).jpg20231216_144816 (resized).jpg20231216_153422 (resized).jpg20231216_153422 (resized).jpg
#5948 65 days ago
Quoted from Crimcyan:

Doing a hardtop and found some of my inserts full of micro cracks, should I replace or leave them as is?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I left all mine. Replace them if you think it will bother you. I don't think it's noticable at all.

#5949 65 days ago
Quoted from R23HTC:

Anything I need to be aware of/watch out for?

Well, seeing that picture, it really can't look much worse no matter what you do.

I'd just suggest taking more pictures during disassembly than you think you need. Quite a few small pieces that are easy to forget how they all fit.

#5950 65 days ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Well, seeing that picture, it really can't look much worse no matter what you do.
I'd just suggest taking more pictures during disassembly than you think you need. Quite a few small pieces that are easy to forget how they all fit.

For that portion that was my thinking. I just want to insure I don’t create any issues disassembling the other side. I will definitely take a LOT of pics as I take it apart.

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