Quoted from Hammerhead:

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Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Hey Woody,
Since your right lower flipper is working, If you have not done so yet, I would check continuity between the cabinet flipper switch BLK/YEL wire to the Coil Lug BLK/YEL wire on your upper right flipper. (see pic below) Possibly a molex terminal has slipped out of one of the dark brown connectors in the lower back cabinet. There are TWO connectors you need to check. See Pics.
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Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Hey Woody,
Since your right lower flipper is working, If you have not done so yet, I would check continuity between the cabinet flipper switch BLK/YEL wire to the Coil Lug BLK/YEL wire on your upper right flipper. (see pic below) Possibly a molex terminal has slipped out of one of the dark brown connectors in the lower back cabinet. There are TWO connectors you need to check. See Pics.
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Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

I am not sure if a bad cap Would cause that to not fire. Have you shorted the switch itself at the switch solder connections where the cap is soldered? There could be a problem with the switch blades. How are the switch contacts?

Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

When you

What did you short to get the coil to fire?

Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

This is very basic but Did you check the flipper switch for continuity? place the DMM probes on the solder tabs fo the switch at the BLK/YEL and ORG/VIO then press the flipper button. I am at a loss here and thinking it is going to be a very odd failure.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

I don't see any difference other then 2812 has a cap installed across the EOS switch. Caps were not installed on series wound coils tho.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

Sometimes you have continuity but it wont pass any current (poor connection). What happens when you ground the Black/yellow wire at the cab switch?

Quoted from GRUMPY:

You need to check for continuity from the other wire on the cabinet switch to the connector on the CPU board.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

The only thing left is the cabinet switch contacts are too worn or dirty to work.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

Just jumper it with an alligator clip to see if it flips. Then you will know for sure.

Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

use a jumper wire to the ORG/VIO & BLK/YEL on the solder lugs of the switch. This will only work if you have an active game or in diagnostic mode such as switch edges or switch levels. If the solenoid operates your switch is suspect.
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Quoted from GRUMPY:

Just jumper it with an alligator clip to see if it flips. Then you will know for sure.

Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

use a jumper wire to the ORG/VIO & BLK/YEL on the solder lugs of the switch. This will only work if you have an active game or in diagnostic mode such as switch edges or switch levels. If the solenoid operates your switch is suspect.
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Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Great! I always replace flipper switches. Its easy and they usually need to be replaced when you get a used game.

Quoted from RandyW:

My latest cheap pinball pickup is also the worst condition pin I have ever bought!! The playfield on this poor high speed, feels like it has been outside for a while. The boards have alkaline damage, the head of the cab need a new bottom. But the plastics, backglass and bottom of the cab are great! So, I bought it for $200. I have to go pick it up this week or next. Given where it is, on the third floor of a log cabin, on the side of a Mountain, it’s taking some planning.
I went onsite to diagnose this machine, but obviously they decided to sell it instead. As bad as it is, I plan to refurb the boards, order a hardtop and make it new again![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from monkfe:

Yes, hes working on it...I should be getting a prototype any day now....

Quoted from PhilGreg:

Hey folks, I got a picture for a High Speed I'm checking out - it looked to me at first that this might be faded, but looking at other pictures on the internet I'm not so sure. What do you guys think?[quoted image]

Quoted from Shubox:

I am sure this answer is right in front of me, however does anyone know how to get the ramp decal for the clear High Speed ramp?
I just purchased a high speed pinball with a clear ramp and noticed that some guys have the decal. Is there only one company making this clear ramp ?
Any help would be appreciated thank you.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from RCA1:

You could probably fahricate a replacement. Or maybe someone has one in their spare parts pile.

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

1. So after opening up my High Speed and really looking at the Power Control board... I am scared of my pinball machine. I just ordered a reconditioned board off of Ebay that looks brand new for $60 and a set of 200 molex connectors off of amazon for $15 to fix this mess. Hopefully this will fix the loud humming noises on my machine and will make comfortable enough to sleep at night without worrying about the house burning down. This board was one of the last original boards in the machine. I'm sure someone will want a System 11 board to tinker with.
2. The volume on my high speed does not go below movie theater sound commercial levels. I may be imagining things, but it seems the sound effects are way louder than the music when I play. The simple fix should be to just add a supplemental potentiometer (primitive volume knob/resistor) in the wiring before the stock volume knob. Would I add that knob below the left, middle, or right connector?
3. My playfield really isn't that bad when I step back and look at things. I have sourced another original pop cap and center plastic off of ebay. I may attempt a little touchup here and there (like the red in the drain on the left) but will probably just leave it as is as I'm going to have to let this (or my new Taxi) go when I get the call for Rick and Morty. The only thing that's really bothering me is the mylar by the right drop... maybe some glue... If I did anything beyond that it would be a hardtop, but I don't know that this machine warrants it.
4. Machine plays pretty much perfectly (except for the volume). I did notice that since I leveled the machine when the ball pops from the capture hole to feed the right flipper, it tends to bounce off of the side rail and make the ramp shot about impossible. I'll have to fidget with it and see if I can adjust it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from detroitzoran:

Sure. However, if you're an Amazon Prime user, you can buy it from this link and get free shipping. amazon.com link »

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I've officially reached peak levels of "meh"with the shooter lane on my hardtop, and I'm willing to try an idea my friend threw out: waterslide decals, under a white painted lane. Does anyone have or know where I could find a high-res photo of a bare playfield with a nice shooter lane, taken directly above? Bonus points if there's something in the photo my wife can use for size reference to properly scale prior to printing the decal.

Quoted from MJW:

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