(Topic ID: 69131)
Linked Games
4 Aces
Williams, 1970-
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
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Buck Rogers
Mambelli, 1980
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Camel Lights
Game Plan, 1978
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Comet
Williams, 1985
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Cyclone
Williams, 1988
-
Genesis
Gottlieb, 1986
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Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider midcoastsurf.
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Naperville, IL
1 week later
Quoted from pinballboy:Gorgeous original playfield. Most machines i see are worn to wood on the outlanes.
Thanks! Has some wear at the top where the mylar ends, but no complaints.
2 months later
Quoted from mmmmdoughnuts:I'll give them a try. Thanks
Eugene Mosh could be another option for you.
1 week later
Quoted from tlantos:Have anyone experienced the same?
Are there any "mission impossible shots" topic? How the hell I did this? [quoted image]
Hiding in the trees...a whole new level of clever!
1 week later
Anyone running Comet 2SMD LED's in their game? Leaning towards 2SMD sunlight white for all GI and inserts and 1SMD behind the backglass. I've been happy with the sunlight white as a happy medium between cool/warm white on past games. If so, please post some pics! Thanks
Quoted from desertT1:I use Comet cool white 2SMD bulbs on every game that doesn’t have factory LEDs. With the frosted dome they are exactly what I want. I hobby operate and everything pre-2013 (or whenever stern moved to factory LED) gets these in the GI and inserts. EMs just get them for GI and then I use non-ghosting bulbs for inserts. Haven’t bought those in so long that I can’t remember exactly which ones.
You have a pic of your game all lit up?
Quoted from FrankJ:2smd sunlight frosted for GI in all of my games. Cool were too bluish (is that a word?) for my tastes. For my eyes, sunlight is the perfect hue between the blue hint of cool and yellow hint of warm.
Have a pic? Exactly the direction I’m leaning. You use 1SMD in the backbox?
Quoted from Pinrookie:In all the G.I. I am using Comet 2SMD sunlights LED in my game. I like it very much. On the other hand, I am using non-comet brand LED for all my inserts. It is because I run out of Comet LED If I made my order tomorrow. I will order 2SMD for all my insert with a few non-ghosts LEDs, plus I will use cool white for my black glass.
[quoted image]
That looks really sharp! To me, the colors looks exactly the way they should when lit up. Thanks!
Quoted from tlantos:As far as I know, "If a switch is not activated in 30 games, or is permanently closed, the switch is assumed to be bad."
This was the situation with my right outlane. I have received the error message about it when powering on. Adjusted the switch, and now it works perfectly.
But strangely the test shows the following items
10 - ball through left
11 - ball through center
12 - ball through right
Now have more questions than answers. I will check the saucer. But as I have mentioned, that is working normally 99%. It seems it is not working when the spinner is spinning like crazy
Are there 3 balls in the game? If not, is it possible the game is saying switches that should be closed (10/11/12) are not closed?
If there are 3 balls in the game, those 3 switches are column 2 (Green-Red wire). I would look at the green-red wire that daisy chains between the outhole switch (switch #9) to ball trough #3 (switch 10).
switch (resized).png
2 weeks later
Quoted from splattii:I joined the club today. Machine wasn't turning on but wish me luck.
Welcome to the club! Keep us posted on your progress and drop your questions here.
Quoted from Tribonian:I bought mine from Mark: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps
Yep, Mark will take care of you. Also, I highly recommend you take the metal mech off your ramp and send it to Mark. He will clean it up and rivet the mech to the new ramp. You can ask him about the service and what you need to send.
1 month later
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:Do people use the high score logging here on Pinside, I always like to put my score in and hopefully move up the rankings. I am currently at #32, High Speed has some very high scores that people have achieved. My top logged score says 9+ Million, but my actual best is just over 11 Million. Once you get used to nudging the ball away from the right outlane I found ball time went up quite a bit.
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/high-speed/scores
There's a high score of 11M with 5-ball, easy settings. What's the point of comparing 3-ball normal to 5-ball easy? Should add a filter to only compare the same set ups. Cool idea in general.
2 weeks later
Quoted from scf:Enhanced the poppers with horn sounds. Cool effect. Also added an active chopper that triggers during the chase. Both add a lot to the game.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B0Q2968GytHs6eqw9e-6hHR1Ve1Bk8u6/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fvG_pcSRQsisL5Dsk6nG-ugwfhYE4UmB/view?usp=drivesdk[quoted image]
Do you have a video of this chopper in action? More details on the set up? Cool!
Quoted from beltking:So my friend said his fast track goes around fast but then loses momentum towards the end and just dribbles out instead of I guess going to the wire form like it should. Had a tech look at it but couldn’t figure it out.
Any ideas what to look at?
Getaway?
Quoted from scf:Last time, I posted an easy mod for High Speed. Here’s a much more difficult one. Repurposed a JJP spotlight to activate during the chase.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e8qRhcW3fcJeAiTs1jzETCie7PYRsKmO/view?usp=drivesdk
That is awesome...mount a helicopter nearby it?
3 weeks later
Quoted from nvu4prod:Just installed Rob's HS stoplight. Looks great opposed to the OEM light in My humble opinion. Easy to install too!!
Thanks Rob.
[quoted image]
+1 to this! Just installed mine yesterday and it is AWESOME. Took about 37 seconds to install.
SUPER nice HS by the way. Wow.
1 month later
Quoted from R23HTC:Also how difficult is it to remove the playfield? It appears at one time the top glass may have been broken and replaced as there’s a bunch broken glass in the bottom of the cabinet I’d like to clean up.
The playfield is on two pivot points and I suggest lifting up the front of the playfield up and leaning it against the backbox (may need some towels OR remove the backglass to avoid scratching it).
1. open coin door
2. latch at top right of opening pulls to the left to release lockdown bar
3. lift up lockdown bar (may need to slide playfield glass forward with one hand)
4. slide playfield glass out and do NOT let a corner touch a hard surface (tile, cement, etc. or it will explode). I rest mine on towels or rugs (vertically on end)
5. lift up on apron/trough area (may need to pull plunger back a little to allow clearance) - pivot it back towards backbox. You can now access most of the bottom cabinet
Good luck and welcome!
4 weeks later
Quoted from HighSpeed1:Are you referring to this one?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/14-7939
Question is whether it's just the motor or the whole mech:
beacon (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from mdmitch2:I took pictures of the 3 pop bumper switch stacks. In order, it's Upper Left (new switch stack from PBLife), Upper Right (new cap and diode), and Bottom Left (new cap and diode). I'm not seeing any obvious differences between the 3
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
May need to zoom out so we can see the whole switch stack (the blades/contacts).
3 weeks later
3 weeks later
Quoted from R23HTC:So in case anyone in the future has the same questions, after further research I’ll answer my own questions.
Those 2 yellow wires in the wire nut were originally connected to the 2 pin via an IDC. Post pics I’ve seen repining it show them pinned together. I’ll probably solder a y connect in there and shrink wrap it for a cleaner and more solid connection.
There was originally a 9 pin male connector on the board with the 5 pin being a blank. So nothing originally there. What I have will work.
I had similar issues with a ton of hacks on my HS game. Here's a before and after. Use the manual/schematics to find the correct wiring/pin numbers. You can also find a bunch of great pics using the image gallery in this thread (BUT - double check with the manual).
hs before (resized).jpghs z after (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
Quoted from R23HTC:All my IDC connectors have now been replaced. What a tedious project. All 1 to 2 Ys and 2 to 1 Ys were soldered and heat shrinked before repinning to new Molex connectors with Trifurcon pins as recommend. I played for a solid 2 hrs with no issues!
[quoted image]
This is awesome! Definitely going to help bulletproof your game.
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