(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

7 years ago

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Post #1871 Lane change and EOS positioning. Posted by GRUMPY (3 years ago)

Post #2703 Original flipper wiring photos. Posted by Pin-Pilot (1 year ago)

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#397 7 years ago
Quoted from CASTHOF:

Made some good progress today, has anyone else made fresh white oak side rails for the game? I'm about to start looking... 1/2"x1-1/8". Other than that, topside was a total breeze. I know I will pay for it on the bottom side.

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I didn't like the wood tone side rails so I painted mine gloss black. My swap is done with the exception of the ramp... I'm going to fabricate a new one out of clear PETG that will accept either a paint scheme or decals.

Black Rails.JPG
#402 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Does that look NICE!! Great job. And while the game is out put some Comet brand red "Crystal Fan" bulbs in the pops, they are GREAT.

I had some 4 LED pop bumper bulbs that are already in there. Should be pretty bright. Hoping the new ramp design will lighten things up as well.

#408 7 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

I got my High Speed level and played a lot faster. I moved it back into place and I think my legs bent a bit from not being moved properly over the years. At first when I made the adjustment the initial ramp shot was made most of the time, not it just hits the bottom of the ramp and drains.
I'm thinking about buying new legs and a pinball dolly.

You can adjust the ball trajectory right where it exits the shooter lane..underneath the plastic.

#414 7 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

I can't get my 2 lower flipper coils tight in the bracket, I have squeezed as tight as I can. So my wife without me knowing tells me she fixed it, I said how, she said she put a few drops of super glue in the corners of the coil and coil stop. How do I get this off? I'am sure in time it will break loose on its own, but I'am not liking this one bit. It don't look like a lot and well it is holding tight, but want it done right. Any ideas? What are you douing to keep the coils tight in bracket. I did not have this issue when I rebuilt the flippers 5 years ago. They are the same coils.

I assume you are talking about the coil itself. Generally most coils "float" a little. In other words when it is tightened in place you can wiggle them a little. That's normal. As far as how to get yours out.... Worry about it when it fails, unless it is not performing now.

#419 7 years ago

Well, I'd start by reseating the chips and plugs on the main board. If that solves or changes things, just indicative of bad connections that will probably need to be addressed.

#440 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey guys, anyone doing anything to their game this weekend? I installed dual red leds to my flipper buttons and put a red led under the left roll over switch to light it up.

Also is this ball popper plastic part #03-9101-9? I just want to make sure before I buy it. Gonna light this one up too. Thanks

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I have completed the playfield swap but put it on hold while I fabricate a new vacuum formed ramp. This is the first test pull just to confirm fit. Putting final touches on the mold now and should pull a finished product in the next few days. Trying clear and will add color and decals.

#450 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

WOW!!! I'd say you were busy. I hope you plan on selling these. and will all the holes along with the metal entrance flap be in and on it also. Looks nice and thick. Will the pf ramp entrance have to be made deeper because the ramp floor is thicker? So many questions, sorry.

.010 PETG. Besides trying to come up with something different I want to build a little bit of "swoop" into the design to hopefully eliminate the need for the ramp cover. Just setting this test into the game opens up a lot of possibilities to do something creative with the back area...open the game up more. Hope to have one in place to test in the next week. If there is interest in these I could make more. My plan it so install the existing hardware from mine onto this one, although I do have new blue tempered spring steel for the ramp entrance. Also set up to rivet all in place but will use screws for testing. Fun stuff. I'll keep everyone posted and get a photo once in the game.

#451 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

WOW!!! I'd say you were busy. I hope you plan on selling these. and will all the holes along with the metal entrance flap be in and on it also. Looks nice and thick. Will the pf ramp entrance have to be made deeper because the ramp floor is thicker? So many questions, sorry.

Sorry... Didn't answer all your questions. The material is very close to the same thickness as the existing ramp an yes I do have the metal entrance flap. And yes the slots for both the diverters and the in lane roll overs will be cut. I was thinking about painting a roadway up the ramp and then adding color. There are two flash lamps behind the ramp which would then illuminate the ramp.

#452 7 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Where are you getting power to run those sockets? I been wanting to do this! I put in clear flipper buttons, and clear shooter rod, just gotta figure out where to get power, type of wire used, etc. Roll over stars same thing where are you getting power? I know on modern games there is plug connectors for mods but these older machines don't. Let me know how to hook up, and what I need to buy?

If you just want to add general illumination to your roll overs, its really easy... there is room to mount the light socket and GI power is right there. That's what I did on mine.

#454 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

That all sounds great, especially getting rid of the ball cover. A nice transparent red or blue would look and light up nice. Keep up the great fun...I mean work...oh you know what I mean.

It understand it is possible to get PETG in colors, but generally it is special order. I thought the same thing about doing it in red or blue. Once I get the test right I'll look into colors further.

#456 7 years ago

I have enough plastic right now for about 10 or 11 more pulls. Had planned on testing colors with Creatix transparents for fun.

#458 7 years ago

Just for fun, here's a shot of the test ramp sitting on the new playfield. You can see it opens up a lot of possibilities...

#459 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Are they the floresent colors?

Funny... Just did a search on line for colored PETG and I did see some florescent green red and orange. Will have to find a source for that red and give it a try.

#471 7 years ago

I've wanted to make this ramp for myself for a long time, but had decided to wait until I did the actual playfield swap. I knew this would open up some options for other modifications and I guess I'm not alone in that respect. I still need to form the final ramp and then test it in my game. I hope to have one ready to test within a few days...have to cut down some trees today...DOH!. I did not expect so much interest in this, so will now try to come up with something that will work well for those interested. One PM had asked what I would charge for this ramp. First if this stuff was easy, anyone would do it. I've spent the last three weeks, on and off I'll admit, just creating the form for this ramp. I built a vacuum former that is not the garage version hooked up to a vacuum cleaner. I can generate about 4 or 5 times the vacuum of a shop vac. I really did this in conjunction with some things my son was doing with pinball design. All that said I expect I would probably sell these for around the same price you would pay for a replacement ramp... $90. The ramp would have the roll over slots cut as well as the diverter slots and have a ramp entrance flap. Basically the same you would get if you purchased a replacement ramp. You would need to transfer your mounting hardware and roll over mechanism from your existing ramp.

#479 7 years ago

I agree on the clear ramp with "decorations". I see mine with a roadway probably a little banked. I was excited doing this for myself, but now I'm really getting jazzed. Got my trees cut down today so nothing else on the agenda but work on this. Will keep you all posted.

#483 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey Freeplay, I know you haven't quite figured it out yet but how much "swoop" do ya think you can put into that left ramp? I have a heavy spring in the shooter now and that rockets the ball up and around and if I put the medium heavy spring in it just kind of limps around. So what I'm saying is try diff. shooter springs with your design, I think it will have a major influence. May be even enclose a "Certified from the manufacture'er" shooter spring that has been "Play tested". Just an idea.

As far as spring strengths go, High Speed requires a strong if not the strongest spring.... Gotta be fast. Are we having fun yet?

#487 7 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

It's not just the shooter. What about the upper right flipper being able to make it up the ramp? I have not worked on mine yet and the flipper is probably weak but the ball just barely make the ramp shot as it is. I want to do the flipper mod that was mention early on in this thread.

When I got my HS several years ago, it was resetting pretty often. Can't remember my logic at the time, but decided to rebuild my flippers. Turned out the rebuilding of the flippers solved my resetting problem which never reoccurred. But, as far as the ramp shot from the upper right flipper, mine is plenty strong to make it. Actually one of my favorite combination shots it to run the red light and then as the ball comes around and drops to the right upper flipper again, make the getaway. So long as that flipper is in good condition, you should be able to make the shot easily. I do like the fact that the shot is not an easy one, so making it on the fly is very fun for me.

#489 7 years ago

I did upgrade my flippers when I rebuilt them

#491 7 years ago
Quoted from Mocean:

It could have also been a failing diode and a voltage spike from the collapsing EMF...

I was pretty green back when I did it but suspect it was a failing diode.

#495 7 years ago

I am completing the final touches to the mold this evening. Should make the first test form tomorrow that I can actually install in my machine to test. I thought I'd be making this for myself and some friends. Appreciate everyone's interest. Pinside is the only place where I have shown this to anyone, so you guys will certainly come first. I'll post photos as soon as I have it installed. This will just be the clear ramp with no added decoration so you can all see what it will look like. Thanks everyone.

#499 7 years ago
Quoted from OTTOgd:

After you make the clear High Speed ramp, repro Genesis ramps!

hmmm... Maybe, if there was enough interest. I would need original ramps to do it.

#501 7 years ago

Like I've said before, this started out as a project for myself, but after seeing the interest want to try and give something to the community. I consider my High Speed ramp a modification since I am trying to adjust trajectory to not need a ramp cover. So really for now, the High Speed is all that is on my mind.

#502 7 years ago

Update on the clear ramp. Successfully pulled a finish ramp that I can trim and install in my game. Couple of photos fresh out of the form....uh, need to trim some plastic. Hope to have it in the game and testing by tomorrow.

HS1a.jpg HS2.jpg
#505 7 years ago

It is a portable pin my son made and flew out with him to the Chicago Expo last year. Getting it rewired to fly out to the Texas Pinball Festival this weekend. Announcing some new hardware they have been working on.

#506 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

and you call yourself a HOBBYIST! You REALLY know what your doing. What do you do for a day job...design rocket motors. Great job!

Ahhhhh....Recently Retired....

#510 7 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I hope this goes well for you, I was thinking about that cover, does it have to do with anything as far as the diverter mech goes? I'm hoping the ball doesn't sail when the ball is kicked to the hideouts. Just something to think about.

I've never gotten the feeling that the diverters would send the ball off the ramp simply because the ball's trajectory is pretty much stable by then. I think it is the initial shot that goes astray, so I'm hoping my design will settle the ball down enough. Really want to be able to this without the cover if possible mostly for the visual...Time will tell. Hope to have it installed today to test.

#512 7 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Or maybe a gardrail attached by the first turn,angled enugh to keep the ball frof flipping out.. just a thought...

Funny, I was just thinking about that. If I am unable to settle the ball trajectory sufficiently, maybe we can up with something less sterile looking and possible sculptured.

#514 7 years ago
Quoted from Lowrent:

Where exactly does the ball can jump out ?
Has anyone tried playing with a bare ramp ?

First off it has to be on that "hot" shot that you can get. Dribble shots that just barely make it up the ramp certainly won't fly out. Just looking at my game of course one concern would be that if it did jump out, there is an 89 Flash bulb back in the corner that could very likely get hit. I am in the process of removing my hardware from my ramp and putting it on the new clear ramp, so I would not be able to test shooting without a ramp condom. Given the increased visibility, I am already thinking about repositioning the 2 flash bulbs in the back corners. One thought is to remount the flash bulbs through the back panel and add domes similar to those already in the game. I hope to get this test form in the game today and begin shooting the ramp. Will of course provide photos when I get the playfield back in the game and if I can figure out how to do it, I'll try to get some video shots.

#516 7 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

My HS as purchased had the cover broken off, and for giggles I left it off. Ball would launch off at the side or close to the end of the curve every single time. Never broke anything, but for sure has the ability to do so.

Good to know... we'll do my best to overcome it. WAs in the middle of installing the ramp in my game and I already see I want to change it. So, going to make some modifications and form another one. Good thing this is fun.

#517 7 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

My HS as purchased had the cover broken off, and for giggles I left it off. Ball would launch off at the side or close to the end of the curve every single time. Never broke anything, but for sure has the ability to do so.

Had a couple off-line exchanges with dsuperbee and have decided to revamp the ramp mold...specifically the uphill turn. Going to radically increase the swoop... I'm obsessed with eliminating the cover!

#519 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Does this mean we are gonna have to cut the cab side so the "swoop" has clearance?

No... but you'll have to remove the playfield glass....hehe. I'm going to redo the mold pretty radically. Will not affect anything else in the game. Has to do with the uphill ramp, which I think I'll call the Talladega turn....kinda like adding a passing lane. Probably take a day or two to get the ramp the way I want it. Will keep you posted.

#526 7 years ago
Quoted from BMHouze:

I made the mistake of taking my wife to the Pinball Exchange club. She got a High Speed and my Wizard! was used as partial trade to soften the blow of having to pay retail for a machine.
I did play the game in my youth but it was located in an arcade on the far side of town so I grew up playing other machines.
Recently my kickback has been inconsistent (sometimes it shoots it to the upper flipper, sometimes to the next lane over, sometimes enough to go right down the middle) and I have very little experience troubleshooting non-EM machines. One of my pinball mentors has suggested the rubber grommet as the first issue to check.
Just looking for some further input for people who have had the same issue.
My favourite quote "504 this is dispatch he what ???"

I've had that happen. Really just comes down to tweaking... Make sure it is not hitting the rubber on the way out...or machine level... or switch adjustment....try adjust the gap on the switch under the playfield...a little narrower and it will fire sooner.

#527 7 years ago

Sorry I've been quiet on the new clear ramp for High Speed. I have the new and improved mold design just about done, but spent the last 2 days in the hospital! Anyway, I'm back home now but need to take it a little easy. Should have a new ramp to show you in a few days.

#529 7 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Your legions of fans wish you well, and look forward to the new design!

Thanks, Man

#534 7 years ago

I've had over 60 different machines and HS is still my favorite.... love Steve Richie games...FAST! Have a friend that has one too and we always compete a best out of 7 series and it is surprising how close the competition is. Actually turned his over at 10,233,000 hehe. My playfield swap is all done and I've held off putting it back in the machine until I get this new ramp done. Hope to be testing the new one...without the cover... in the next few days and will post photos.

#539 7 years ago

Nice...They sure are gorgeous when put back together. Mine is still sitting on my kitchen counter patiently awaiting the clear ramp. I painted my wood rails black.

#542 7 years ago
Quoted from NinJaBooT:

I need that ramp!!!!!!

I should have the new and improved "Talladega" ramp formed today. If I get it cut out of the mold today I'll post a photo!

Quoted from eh97ac:

1) You have two kitchens
2) Bachelor/Divorced
3) Most patient wife ever

Uh, yeah, #2

#544 7 years ago

I just called the new mold "Talladega" due to the bank I'm building into the turn. Talladega is known for the steepest bank turn.

#546 7 years ago

OK... Got a good pull today on the "Talladega" High Speed ramp. The attached photos are very rough cuts and I will take this ramp and install it in my game so I can test the flow with this altered trajectory. This new design is stretching the .100 PETG a little farther than I'd like so I'm going to order another dozen pieces at .0125. Would appreciate your thoughts on the look.

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#548 7 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

Looks great! Though the area right under the ramp looks sad and bare.
I still don't understand why the angle of the ramp needs to change. Never had a problem with my roofless original ramp.

I don't know the history but the ramp cover seems to be an after thought. My original ramp is cracking right at the bottom on the left and my friends is cracking up the ramp. Perhaps slight variations in installation or wear may have caused the ball to go astray. Mine flies out if the lid isn't on. In addition to eliminating the cover , I also wanted to make the shot into more of a "High Speed Swoosh".

#549 7 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

Looks great! Though the area right under the ramp looks sad and bare.

Some of the others thought that new spot under the ramp would look great with a Police Car with flashing lights. I was considering a roadway, but more and more I just like the clear.

#550 7 years ago

So... I put the ramp in the game and tried just throwing some balls up the ramp and can see that I easily have the ball flying out of the ramp under control. So now I'm going to pull back a little and probably end up about in the middle of this new ramp and the stock ramp. Probably won't be very noticeably different from the first ramp I made. I'm obsessed with this thing!

#554 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Well if this one works why go back? It looks like the ramp entrance flap might stick out onto the pf a little farther then stock.

I'll make sure the flap matches the stock

#557 7 years ago

Under the lane guide? Not sure I understand exactly which light you are referring to (Photo?). If it is the one under the lane guide it is just typical GI...in my case I have out in a frosted LED.

#560 7 years ago

That one is just a regular GI light so 47, or 44 if you want it brighter

#569 7 years ago

New Clear Ramp update. Successfully installed a test ramp in the game today. Looks great and so far plays great. In addition to just switching to a clear ramp, my real goal was to eliminate the need for a ramp cover. So far so good. Haven't had one fly out yet. Attached are a couple photos. One with flash and one without. Think I'll take the rest of the night off.


#573 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

It updates the game very nicely, makes it look elegant and refined. The only big problem I see is that now you can see through the ramp and have to look at that black wall on the back of the game. That thing looks to be a moders dream. Let's see what people come up with. Maybe some mirror plex would look nice.

Looks like a good spot for a billboard

#574 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

It updates the game very nicely, makes it look elegant and refined. The only big problem I see is that now you can see through the ramp and have to look at that black wall on the back of the game. That thing looks to be a moders dream. Let's see what people come up with. Maybe some mirror plex would look nice.

I just had another idea to go with that black wall in the back left corner. Underneath the left side of the ramp there are two GI bulbs. Right now I have two frosted LED's so, it's pretty bright there. Now I'm thinking about a billboard with those GI's swapped out for spot lights. It certainly does open the game up back there as well as the potential for others to come up with mods.

#575 7 years ago
Quoted from Mocean:

Wow. That ramp looks epic. I wish I'd expressed interest in buying one before now! I'm sure the line is a mile long. If not, let me know. It makes the machine look at least 5 years younger (I.e., '91 instead of '86).
Take my money?

I've kept this pretty quiet until now and it has only been shown in this High Speed club thread. So far I think there are about 20 who have expressed interest here, so I plan to take care of everyone here first if they are still interested. It will still take me a few days to build some jigs for the cutouts. I hope to have finished ramps certainly inside of a week and will contact by PM in order of response. If anyone is curious, about a list, just look back through this thread...started on page 9.

#577 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You da man Mark. I like the idea of the billboard but what would be advertising? I wonder is a hobby store would have something like that, something for a model train set-up maybe?

There is also, now, a bare flasher back there as well. Thought about just putting a dome on it through the back wall, but I'm sure there is something better we'll come up with.

#580 7 years ago
Quoted from Mocean:

Purists: please look away.
Has anyone ever made wire ramps that deliver the balls to the inlanes instead of in front of the slings? The former seems far more civilized to me...

Not sure how it would effect the game scoring, but I think it would look very cool...open up the playfield more.

#583 7 years ago

Try these and I'll look for more.

IMG_0331-889.JPG IMG_0332-218.JPG IMG_0333-494.JPG IMG_0334.JPG IMG_0335-590.JPG IMG_0336-252.JPG IMG_0337-621.JPG IMG_0338.JPG IMG_0339.JPG IMG_0340.JPG IMG_0341.JPG
#584 7 years ago

Found these still on the camera...

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#587 7 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

I am also interested in your clear ramp. Please put me on your list. Thanks

Already have you on my list at number 9!

#590 7 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Put me down for a clear ramp as well!

Have you on my list already at 16

#591 7 years ago

Clear ramp update... Continue to fine tune the mold. Forming another ramp this morning to install in my machine. A surprising by product of my design... Old ramp was noisy...rattled around in the plastic.... New ramp is much quieter. Hope to have this one in the machine by late today and will send another update.

#595 7 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I'd like to confirm interest.


#598 7 years ago

So Here's the folks that have expressed an interest in this new ramp... I may need to check spelling.

1 Mustang Paul
2 Jeff_PHX_AZ
3 Drano
4 Love2k
5 Chaos
6 Harbngr
7 Craig
8 Tonycip
10 toyotaboy
11 mof
12 nvu4prod
13 OTTOgd
14 Ninjaboot
15 mkoga-Ultra
16 dsuperbee
17 silver_spinner
18 silver_spinner
19 rhoggard
20 badpenny61
21 Mocean
22 Pac-Fan
23 lordloss
24 TomGWI
25 xrayman
26 eh97ac

Ordering the plastic today. Bear with me...we are very close.

#602 7 years ago

This ramp is more sculptured than a typical ramp. The floor of the ramp is a little curved, but close to flat. Something else to consider when coming up with ideas, is that we have two flashers (one on each side) that can now be retasked for some effect. I was thinking about putting yellow and black turn ahead decals ( >>>)at the corners that could be illuminated by the flashers. I think Mustang Paul is trying to figure out how to place a Mustang Police Car with flashers under the ramp . I've been testing the ramp in my game without the stop light installed. I kind of like the open look to the ramp so may also consider moving my stop light back into the left corner and hang it vertically. Can't wait to get the ramps done so I can think what to do next.

On another note, I have been striving to get this ramp to fit perfectly. In addition to eliminating the cover, I also wanted to solve a problem, at least with my stock ramp, that resulted in it cracking at the lower left corner of the entrance to the ramp. As designed, the vertical edge of the ramp sticks out a little and can get hit by the ball. My latest model has this nicely tucked behind the red post at the entrance. This should prevent it from get hammered by the ball. Fun stuff.

#604 7 years ago
Quoted from Pac-Fan:

Good idea. I have a Jokerz with the clear upper playfield and that has 4 flashers behind it and a red/cream checker pattern on it. Your idea with >>>> on yellow/black is similar and fits with the HS theme.

Thinking something like these then?

Exactly! Flashers would light them up nicely! Now I want to play with some water slide decals.... NO.. Must stay on task.

#606 7 years ago

This is just too much fun. Glad I picked High Speed for the first ramp mod!

#617 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey Mark, would you do me a favor and engrave your artograph and number it. Having it signed by the artist would be so cool.

I see a perfect place to put a numbered decal....

#618 7 years ago
Quoted from xrayman:

Hi Freeplay40,
Please add me in to the interest list.

xrayman...added/edited you onto the list on page 12

1 week later
#634 7 years ago

Clear Ramp update. So after about 12 different designs I have finally nailed it. Attached are photos of the just cut out final design. I will now install it in my machine to confirm all final fits. Some of the things I have accomplished with this new design are:

1 Left side of entrance to ramp is now protected from getting beat by the ball..(Note my original ramp is cracked there)

2. No more cover needed! Now we all know there can be that odd shot once in a great while, but I have yet to bounce out of the ramp.. If you get that really "hot" shot, the worst that will happen is that it might touch the glass, but stays in the ramp.

3. An unanticipated benefit... This thing is incredibly quiet!. If you buy one of these, before you install it, note the sound the ball makes when going up the stock ramp...sort of rattles. When you install the new one you will find almost no sound at all.

4. Uh, you can see through it! I've got a couple decals I'm going to throw on mine just for kicks, that will be illuminated by the rear flashers.

5. On the inside turn of the ramp, there is a plastic above the upper three stop light targets. On mine, that plastic was always in a bind with the ramp. Added room to clear that plastic.

I will follow up with a photo of this latest design installed in my machine....maybe yet today. Once I confirm final fit in my machine, I am going to start producing these. Sorry this has taken me so long, but wanted to get it just right.

Beyond the entrance flap which is included and will be riveted, there are 7 additional rivets necessary to install this in your game. Access to a rivet press is the best. It you attempt to use screws instead of rivets, understand that you will likely have to grind down the heads of the screws so they will not interfere will ball travel. I tried screws initially when I was testing and saw right away that they would be a problem. I am also considering having anyone interested in having me do the riveting, that they send me their pieces (I will post a photo later showing the pieces that need to be riveted) and I will completely assemble the ramp, test fit it in my game and then ship it back. Thinking maybe $20 additional to assemble. This way you will be able to install it immediately into your game.

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#637 7 years ago

IMG_0414.JPGIf anyone is interested in having me rivet/assemble the ramp for them ($20) so that it will be a straight install when you get it, you would need to send me the parts shown in the attached photo. You would need to remove these from your existing ramp.

From left to right...

Diverter switch plate (Send with wire harness attached and I will clean and adjust the switches when I assemble. Also note that I will modify the plate slightly...grind some metal away...in order to rivet tightly)

Diverter switch plate cover (Optional to send...attaches to the diverter switch plate with 2 screws)

Right hand side mounting bracket (Mounts to right side rail)

Outer left side mounting plate (Screws to playfield)

Inner left side ball guide (Rivets to ramp and outer left side mounting bracket.

As you can see my inner ball guide is pretty beat up. I am going to replace mine with a polished piece of .0100 spring steel... thin and strong. Will post a photo of that as well. If anyone has any questions about how to remove the existing ramp let me know...God knows I've taken mine in and out about a dozen times now.

#640 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You are a true craftsman and take pride in what you do. Do the 2 switches have diodes on them, I can't remember?

no diodes

#641 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

My left side ball guide is beat to crap also, how much for one like your going to make? I'll be sending you my parts.

Thinking $5 for that piece (takes a lot of polishing to get through the "blue" of the spring steel, but I want to test it in my machine... Here's a photo of one I just made


#647 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Won't that spring steel rust? Isn't the original made out of stainless and isn't stainless harder? Also, isn't using the old torn up one like running a new ball over sandpaper?

Sticks to a magnet so not true stainless. It also bends very easily. Looks like it was chromed one side.

#648 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Won't that spring steel rust? Isn't the original made out of stainless and isn't stainless harder? Also, isn't using the old torn up one like running a new ball over sandpaper?

Looked around a little on line and it can in fact rust. But it's the same material that ramp flaps are made out of. I know they have some sheet stainless at Lowes so maybe I'll check that out. As far as hardness, it's pretty much impossible to drill the spring steel. I have to use a punch to put holes in it. I'm putting one in my game tonight and I'll see if the ball can mark it.

#650 7 years ago

OK... Final design installed in my machine and working great. One with flash and one without. Note that I have not yet reinstalled the stop light.


#657 7 years ago

Those flippers look nice!

#659 7 years ago

High Speed clear ramp. Sort of stumbled into being ready to produce these. Several PM's have been sent to those that expressed instant interest and so far all wanted me to assemble and I have sent my address to them. I committed to offering this to everyone who had expressed interest within this thread before a more public forum. I will be sending PM's to all that indicated interest soon. Pricing has been offered for the ramp with flap itself and then I offered to assemble the ramp from your parts so that you could immediately install when I ship back to you. I have also added a replacement for the ball guide that is most likely beat up on most machines (inside left of ramp entrance). So all that said here is the summary of pricing if you want one:

Ramp with flap.. $90
Assembly with your parts shipped to me $20
Ramp ball guide $5 (optional)...Photo attached
Shipping back to you $15 (estimated at this time)

I can accept Paypal at Freeplay40@yahoo.com or Postal Money Orders

I begin production today and expect to have 10 to 20 ready in the next 3-5 days...

Photo of installed new ramp guide...

Thanks to all for your interest.

For additional info on the ramp attributes and parts for assembly, see beginning with "Clear Ramp Update" on page 13.


#661 7 years ago

Note that none of the photos have had my Stop Light (Mounts to the ramp) installed. There will be holes drilled for it, but while I take breaks in production I will be adding some tidbits to my setup...gotta stop and play!.... Since I really like the openness of the clear ramp, I am going to mount my stoplight in the back left corner of the game. This will actually keep the underside of the uphill ramp exposed for another mod...Mustangpaul already envisioned a lit up police car under there and have seen those already available within this thread. I will also experiment with some simple decals on the ramp that will take advantage of the newly exposed flashers in the back corners of the playfield. At least for me, this new ramp has opened up the potential for all sorts of additional mods. Will be fun to see what others come up with.

#662 7 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Any issues mounting the traffic light?

Looks like our minds were on the same page. No Issues, just haven't done it yet while I experimented. The ramp will have mounting holes for it...or not if you wish.

#667 7 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Removed my old ramp to send out parts. The power cord for the dive rotors was a PITA to get through the small play field hole.

Probably would have helped if I had relayed my experience removing the playfield. Clearly the easiest way to access the ramp is with the playfield removed. High Speed is sort of unique that if you are very careful, it will sit nicely on a table top, supported by nicely spaced coil brackets...perfectly level. Getting the plug up through the playfield is the toughest part. The hole was designed to allow the plug to just be pulled through...however if your game is like mine, the plugs are backwards....in other words they put the larger female plug on top and the smaller male plug...which would fit through the hole easily on the bottom. Anyway, the easiest way to get it out it to pop the rubber rings loose and then on the back side of the backboard there are three screws holding the back board in place on each side of the machine. I loosened those three screws on the right side so the back could be pushed back a little. Note that if you take this route that the backboard might be a little stuck in place...gentle rap or two will loosen it. Then the plug is easy to get out. A little tough in the machine...very easy with the playfield pulled.

#669 7 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Exactly how mine was. Put new plugs on and swapped them so it was an easy removal.

Good move! I should probably do the same.

#671 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You mean like this? Now is a good time to clean back there, repaint the board and install new long rubbers. Paint should be nice and dry by the time the new ramp is back.
As far as the connector goes I'm just going to swap the originals.

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That's what I'm doing as well. I don't have any 4 prong, but have the connectors... Just a minor production error...hehe

#676 7 years ago

Hmmm... My game does not have that extra support loop. My ramp edges are flat as opposed to the rounded ones on the stock ramp. Since I don't know the alignment of that loop support, think I will ship without the holes drilled for the stop light. That way you can be sure of alignment. I'm going to move my stoplight into the back left corner and mount vertically.

Should have the first dozen ramps ready tomorrow.. Ones in the photo are basically done. just need to rivet the flaps,

#679 7 years ago

Like I said, my game does not have any extra support for the stoplight. Mine was simply attached with a sheet metal screw in one of the holes and a screw and nut in the other. My ramp edge there is flat and there's enough to attach. I can estimate the holes location on the new ramp as best as I can and go ahead and drill them. Here's a shot of one of mine sitting in the game..

#683 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

EL paper would look so hot on the underside, shining up, of the ramp. But how to do it. There's your next project Mark. Take my money.

ROFLMAO... Doing this clear ramp and being able to look at it everyday I keep wanting to stop and try new things. At the very least I am going to relocate my stop light (or make a new stoplight?) and move the rear flashers to light up whatever I decide to put on the ramp. It really changes the look of the game. I'm already thinking about what I will do next. Saw a post where guys were needing a ramp for Space Station, but then I look at my F-14 and wonder...what's under that raised diverter BLACK plastic?

#685 7 years ago

The wiring would need to be extended. I was thinking of just screwing it into the side of the back board using the exiting bracket. Would be slightly slanted towards the middle of the game with the existing bracket with red on top. I'll try to get it in today and post a photo. Got to pull the playfield to do it.

#686 7 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Do you have to extend the stoplight wiring to relocate it to back corner. Can you post a picture of where you are going to put it? Thanks

So... Two photos attached. One, excuse my hand, is holding the stop light about where it would mount. Note that in this position the openness under the ramp is pretty much hidden from player view. Personally, I want to see as much of the ramp as I can, so photo 2 shows the light now mounted in the back corner. Wiring had to be extended about a foot.

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#689 7 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Nice I like it! I like it upright too. do you have any video of that ramp in action? is it thicker then the original?
the original is kind of thin.
I'll be sending my parts soon.
here's some pic's of my ramp when I got the machine. We should have a contest to see who's ramp was the worst,
I think I might win!

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Uh, maybe a little Novus would clean it up. Ya' think? The new ramp is made out of .100 PETG. It's pretty close to the original...maybe a little thicker.

#692 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Is the PETG stronger then a ramp that has been injected molded? Twisted Pins is getting into the ramp business as you probably know.

Very few ramps are injection molded. Most are vacuum formed. The Taxi Spinout ramp is unique. PM sent

#693 7 years ago

OK... First time I have every uploaded a video to You Tube. We'll see if this works

#696 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You Tube frame rate could be better but it the ramp plays great and the stop light back there looks good to. Thanks Mark.

Frame rate??? I was just pleased I got it uploaded. Never did that before.

#697 7 years ago

Did I mention that I have been getting some incredibly high scores with the glass off?

#701 7 years ago

PM's have been sent to all that expressed interest in this ramp. Already got a few responses back, but Pinside is not allowing me to respond to any more. Evidently due to potential spammers... So if you don't hear back from me today, I will respond if necessary tomorrow...

#702 7 years ago

We know that like machines can play differently. I received the first parts shipped to me yesterday for the ramp assembly and just for fun, compared the wear on the ball guide on the inside of the entrance to the ramp. In the attached photo, are two guides. The top one came out of my game and the lower one came out of mjw's game. You can see distinct difference in the ball travel. Just trivia...

#703 7 years ago

In case any of you decide to relocate your stop light to the back corner, it was pretty simple. What I did was cut about a 1/4 deep notch...long enough to fit the existing bracket on the stop light, into the side of the playfield back board...right at the top. Then just used one screw to attach it (outside hole in the bracket) The natural bend in the bracket angles the light perfectly. As far as wiring, had to extend the existing wiring about a foot. Wire harness wraps around behind the back board and comes to the stop light where the notch is. I did put one wire holder on the back board near where it comes around to the stop light just to keep it secure.

#705 7 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

It would be cool if someone could find a stop light that actually looks like a stop light about the same size..
especially since mine's all melted up..

I'm actually thinking about it, but have my hands full right now...So...what exactly happened to melt your machine?

#707 7 years ago

So, good timing for a new ramp!

#708 7 years ago

There's a real simple upgrade you can do with your playfield torn down... The two upper rollover stars were never lighted. You will see that the GI wiring is right there and handy if you want put lights under them. I did my playfield swap a couple months ago and the only thing I really had trouble with are the roll overs. They say you need to clear out the "vanes" to be sure that the star will move freely...however, I think that the clear coat also put a thick layer down in the roll over plastic which prevents the star from going down far enough (down even with the playfield).. If this is not addressed, the high speed shots around the freeway will be spoiled by the star sticking up. I need to take mine back out and redo them.

#711 7 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

truth be told I already bought a new black one . but I think the clear one looks so much better. I sent my parts you should be getting them soon.
let me know if you come up with any kind of stop light. or if someone could model one up I have axcess to a 3D printer.

I think 3-d printers are a ways off from doing everything people think they can, but a stop light would be VERY doable. Have to think about that one.

#714 7 years ago

Obviously I have my hands full right now. Would have to give consideration for depth for the electronics inside. I also thought that a Stop Light that looked more like a real one...that being the depth far less than the stock and maybe even a little less than you show, BUT basically mounted through the back board. Plenty of room in the back of the machine for the electronics and many machines already do extend playfield parts through the back. Fun stuff!

#724 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I vote for a stop light like that.

That would be awesome and a perfect match for those on the playfield. Personally I do not have a problem with cutting into the back board. It's just a piece of wood that could very easily be reproduced if necessary. I might try to make one out of a block of acrylic. Maybe a casting? Hmmm no sleep tonight!

#728 7 years ago

Those will work well with...YOUR NEW CLEAR RAMPS THAT ARE IN THE MAIL!!! Well, dsuperbee's.... and tonycip's tomorrow...

#731 7 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

I can use them in the meantime to help stop the twist in my repro PF, since I don't know when I am going to have time to start the repro work

Totally understand. I did my playfield then took a right turn to do these ramps. Have a friend waiting for me to do his HS swap...but the good news is he wants the new ramp and stoplight relocation.

#733 7 years ago

Had some inquiries about specifically how I did the stop light relocation. Basically you would need to remove the back board on the playfield. If you do not want to remove the playfield, you can remove the six screws that holds it to the playfield and remove it. Note that it is probably a little "stuck" in place, but after removing the 6 screws, a little "rap" and it will come loose. Relocation required extending the wire harness about 1 foot. I did not have 4 pin connectors when I did this (Will order next time) so just soldered and shrink wrapped extensions. When I get the new connectors I will redo it. Wires do not have to match the existing harness, but just do one at a time and it will work fine. Note that I put the extension on the wires attached to the stop light. So, basically cut a notch no more than 1/4" deep as shown in the photos. Initially I mounted mine in the lower screw hole but there was insufficient clearance over the plastic. Notch also allows room for the wire to come around the end of the playfield. Also used one small wire holder to keep the wire positioned. So...photos below... let me know if you have any questions.

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#737 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Mark, why didn't you refinish the board? You can see it real good now so sand-sand-sand-paint-paint-paint.

The board actually was repainted. But when screwed together, the paint naturally sticks together. I only took it out to do the stop light...then again to take the photos... Did you get your parts shipped? Your ramp awaits..

#738 7 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Now I get it. Thanks Mark

Now I want to make a new stop light!

#744 7 years ago

The six lower ones are different on my machine.

#748 7 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Anyone know this? Mine are not working at all. Where can you find replacement resistors?

Just a thought...When I got my High Speed none of my flashers were working. Figured I roll up my sleeves and start trouble shooting... But, I decided to try a new bulb first. Turned out, ALL of my flashers were burnt out.

#765 7 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Clear ramp came today and looks great. Thanks for polishing the brackets and adjusting the switches Mark. Worth every penny.

My pleasure. Let me know if you have any questions... Post a photo once you get it installed???

#766 7 years ago

High Speed clear ramps... So, this will basically be last call for ramps right now. Have sent emails to all who had indicated interest. For those who decided to pass and sent me an email back to let me know, I appreciate it.

I will of course complete the ramps for all who have paid and I am awaiting their parts.

I'm going to take a couple weeks off to help my son prepare some things for the NW Pinball Show in June. If there is still interest between now and June I will gear up and make some more. Will also be taking my High Speed to the show with the clear ramp.....maybe a new stoplight if I find time.

Thanks to all for the support and purchases so far.

#769 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Could someone get Mezelmods the info he needs to make a plug N play interactive 64th scale cop car for our game. I don't have the know how to supply it. I want one for under the new ramp.

A note on a police car under the ramp. I'd take a photo, but I'm too tired. Anyway, under the ramp (left side) there is a typical red post which is positioned to prevent an errant ball shot around the freeway from getting caught under the stock ramp. The shape of my ramp is a little deeper at that point, so that post could be removed if desired... and make more room for a Police Car, uh unit #504, to be placed.

#772 7 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Installed ramp today and relocated stoplight. All is fine but used factory holes for ramp flap and brackets. Could not get it to lineup flush with play field . Tried to move ramp back to line up but not lined up correctly.the difference in heights is sometimes causing air balls going up ramp. Mark ,did you see any of this in testing and did your ramp flaps match even with play field? I must be doing something wrong.

Still got my phone number? Call me

#773 7 years ago

Follow up to our phone call... I don't know what the process was when these games were originally assembled, but I suspect that although the new reproduction playfields have holes spotted for the two screws under the flap I think they may have been drilled at the time of the original installation of the stock ramps. What we discovered is that his hold down holes (under the flap) obviously differ from my two playfields causing the plastic ramp to in his case to actually sit up on the playfield....in effect creating a monster speed bump.

So as you receive your ramps, you want to test fit them. The screws into the playfield under the flap should probably be the last two screws installed. The ramp itself is modeled to sit in the depression cut into the field, tight up against the shoulder at the entrance. Check alignment of the holes I put into the ramp for the last two hold down screws and should they not line up acceptably, you might have to drill new ones into the playfield and possibly fill the others if they are close. The two most important screws are those that hold the big plate that is riveted to the ball guide to the playfield. Once these are attached, the ramp entrance should be snug with the shoulder of the playfield at the entrance.

I test fit all the ramps I have left into both of my playfields and they line up correctly. MJW...let us know how it works out.

#775 7 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Thanks for the help. Was able to bend tip of flap slightly and tweaked screw hole locations No more air balls.

Awesome. You are the first one to get it installed!

#780 7 years ago
Quoted from nvu4prod:

dsuperbee is correct, had to modify my repro Cyclone ramp when I did my CPR Swap. Taking material off the underside of the ramp entrance behind the metal flap made the ball transition much easier from the playfield.

So true. I've completed 3 playfield swaps (KISS, Fathom and High Speed) and have learned to not completely trust the pre drilled holes or the dimpling. No disrespect for CPR, actually, I think I have gained a lot more respect for their trying to find the "best" possible location for a lot of what they have to align. So what I've learned is to double check everything before installing. Same goes for the ramps. My stock ramp was actually a terrible fit. Guess this is why one can play much differently from its brother.

#782 6 years ago

Since I've done this a gazillion times now....

There are two screws under the flap..

There are two screws on the left outer edge

There are two screws in the back that hold the switch plate to the diverter mechanism. You have to hold the diverter in the activated position to get one of them

There is one screw on the right side into the wood rail

Then you need to lift the playfield and unplug the wire from the ramp.

If your are lucky, the male end of the plug will be the one that goes to the ramp. Only the male plug will fit through the slot cut into the playfield to feed the wire up to the top. Will also help to pop the two rubber bands in the back loose on the right side. If your game is like most so far, the bigger female plug is the one on the ramp harness. In order to get this through the playfield so you can remove the ramp, you will need to remove at least the three screws on the right side of the machine that hold the back board on. (Look back through thread to see my stop light relocation photos...there you can see the three screws I'm talking about) If you remove the playfield this is really easy to see. It can be done with the playfield lifted and a little coordination. With those 3 screws removed, you can give a light "rap" to that side of the backboard and it will pop loose giving you enough room to feed the wire through.

#790 6 years ago

Eventually, Planetary will be doing upgrades to System 11 hardware/software. Similar to the WPC 2.0 recently revealed on Pinside. No guarantee they will do High Speed...BUT THEY SHOULD! Would be cool to have something that indicated speed... I love those multiple "round the world" shots. I would think that time lapse between either the two spinners or the two roll overs could be converted to a prescribed speed tied to an LED readout. And someone 3D prints a mini radar gun!

#793 6 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Got my clear ramp today, looks great. May not get installed right away, but the quality is great.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

ditto...... GREAT craftsmanship Mark.

Thanks guys! Glad you like them. Looks like I'm getting a little reprieve on work for the NW Pinball Show, so will be getting my HS ready to show it off there in a couple weeks. Ordered more supplies so I will probably begin making more in a few days. I only have 2 ramps left from the first run.

#796 6 years ago

Wow. Hard to say what they were trying to accomplish there... However, you are correct that that ground braid should be connected to the coin door. On the micro switches, my experience is that if they do click, they general work. Do need to check exactly when they click and adjust if necessary so that when a ball rolls over it that it does in fact register.

#799 6 years ago

Personally I'd gut that stuff and get everything wired back to stock and then fix any problems.

#801 6 years ago

Sweet! Looks Nice, Paul! Down to only one ramp left. Better make some more.

#804 6 years ago

That's pretty cool! All I've done so far is put a couple >>> decals at the corner, but not happy with them.

#806 6 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

My spiffy new clear ramp arrived this week. I was hesitant to order one due to my experience with a fellows Genesis ramp effort. But, the new clear ramp is nothing but awesome! Well done!
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

Many thanks for the kind words, Chris. Interest continues and think I can attribute that at this point to the good testimonials. Guess I need to make some more!

#808 6 years ago

I think the Genesis ramps might be injection molded. Maybe Twisted Pins will give them a go, but expect they would be pretty far down the list. It would be a serious undertaking for me to do these in a vacuum formed process. Kind of Like the High Speed ramp...custom. I will try to take a look at one locally.

#809 6 years ago

On top of that it is Gottlieb and permission would have to be obtained.

#812 6 years ago

So... Got a reprieve from helping my son with his project for the NW Pinball Show on June 6th. I have my High Speed pretty dialed in now with the new playfield and of course, new ramp. So it's ready for the show. All that combined with forecast rain (Seattle...big surprise, huh?) I will start making more ramps tomorrow. Should have another dozen available next week. Hoping the show in Seattle generates some more interest as well.

Thanks to all who have purchased so far and the kind words. I think I'm going to try another one after this. I don't like to just reproduce something, I want to try and improve something. I think with High Speed the clear ramp was a good first choice. I am going to look at other System 11's with black ABS ramps and see if I can identify another that could use an update.

(Actually ran this comment in both this thread and the High Speed Clear Ramp thread)

#814 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

All your hard work really payed off Mark and I hope you sell out at the show and have to make 5 dozen more. I would think the new ramp would have to be for a game you all ready have so which one will it be, unless you plan on buying another project game.

Probably the only candidate I have in my house would be the F-14. Maybe a red, white and blue clear. Lot of friends with games. Maybe if I identify a candidate game locally I'll barter a "borrow" with a free ramp. Kind of want to stick with Williams.... Any ideas?....Anyone???

#816 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Off the top of my head, I'd guess the Space Station black ramp could use a re-make in clear plastic.

That would be a good one.

#818 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I think it would match and look better the same blue as the mini pf. I know how you like to improve things but how could you improve the design?

I recall in another thread some interest in colors. PETG is tough to get in colors. Need to do some experimenting on coloring PETG. Maybe something a little more decorative... Not to go backwards but maybe something over the top of it with lighting... Hmmm.. Sense another tough time getting to sleep!

#820 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You mean to say PETG only comes in clear.

Pretty much just clear. There is a local company here in Washington that can apply/bond colors to plastic. I will be contacting them soon.

#822 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

That sounds like a tricky vac-u-form job.

Could do some ramps in acrylic...maybe a little thicker. Acrylic comes in lots of transparent colors. May do a test on the HS in either red or blue. Acrylic is not as strong as PTEG.

#824 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yes acrylic comes in lots of colors. Wouldn't thicker ramps make fitment more difficult?

Not terribly. Longer rivets. Only talking about going from .100" PETG to .125 Acrylic. Wouldn't go thicker than that. Only point of concern would be the ramp entrance and that could be sanded slightly. I might make one for fun.... After I make the next batch of clears!

#826 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Make one for fun. Dang your good. It would be great to get the same color blue as the mini pf.

Actually I think I will do a blue High Speed. HS is a tough form so a good test. Acrylic doesn't form as well as PETG.

#830 6 years ago
Quoted from OTTOgd:

But what would show underneath?

What ever our creative minds can come up with!!!!! :0

#832 6 years ago

Well it looks awesome. I don't understand why you had to grind the playfield? Was the plastic sitting up on the playfield? I'll make you a custom flap, but then you'll have to rivet it.

#837 6 years ago
Quoted from xrayman:

Also as far as mods, does anyone think these model train guys are on to something

I like that stop light. I think I need to make a trip to the train hobby store.

#842 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

It sure is especially Mark hand made probably a wood mold and got it so perfect then made his own vacume table all at home using hand tools for the most part and without the use of fancy cad drawings.. To be able to think in reverse 3 dimentions is really a gift. This has to be one of the best single man mods in all of pinball. The guy is a genius if you ask me.

You give me way too much credit. I just like making and learning new things. I do have the forming down to a science now. Works perfect every time. When we first experimented with forming we did the typical shop vac set up. Just wasn't powerful enough. So I designed and built one with a powerful vacuum pump and put it all on a cart. This thing will suck the chrome off a trailer hitch. All kidding aside it is about 5 times more powerful that a shop vac setup.

#844 6 years ago

Ahhh... Fresh out of the bath and ready to rivet.

#849 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I know you can get small leds, I just think the stop sign would be to small and easy to forget about with those tiny little leds being way back on the pf. I think the size of the Getaway sign would look good back there.

Or we just hang little stoplights all over the playfield!

#851 6 years ago

Although officially retired, I've been "called up" today for consulting....DOH!

#863 6 years ago
Quoted from Hwawonyu:

How hard is this to install? Any left for sale?

Depends on your choice of options. Most have opted to send me their parts that are riveted to the ramp. I take your parts and rivet all to the new ramp then return to you so that it is ready to install. And, Yes, I just made 12 more.

#869 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Not hard at all just time consuming. Read the posts for some tips.

Unless, Like me you have taken it in an out so many times. Now only takes me about 10 minutes to put one in.

#874 6 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Officially joining the Club... picked mine up last week, fair body, decent playfield, a few broken plastics, no LED's, should clean nicely. left slingshot unhooked from stuck coil (guessing a bad transistor) top jet bumper coil not activating, cracked ramp. I'll be cleaning, rebuilding flippers and jets and starting on LED's soon
Hey Freeplay40, do you have a link to the stoplight relocation? with a pic? hehe
daydreaming:::looking forward to my new clear ramp

It's in this thread. Back on page 15


#875 6 years ago

Hmmmm....mof... Wonder what I could try and make out of this?

#879 6 years ago

No Joy on the blue ramp. Couldn't get a good pull. Acrylic is harder to form.

#881 6 years ago

In the past I have been successful forming clear acrylic, but I just figured out why the attempt today failed. The clear acrylic I have used in the past is "extruded". The blue material I had today I just realized is "cast" acrylic. So my mistake was the temperature. I heated to around 310 degrees which is on the warm side for extruded acrylic. However, cast acrylic needs between 340 and 380 degrees. Now that I know what I'm dealing with I may still give it another shot.

#882 6 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

I think a dark blue like that defeats the purpose of having a clear-ish ramp. If you really want colors, go buy some cherry translucent paint in any color you want and paint the underside.

Honestly I like it clear too. I've tried some decals but have not been happy with them so far. I think a road bed is still one of the best ideas. I have some rejects that I can experiment with. I may try masking and airbrushing a roadbed on one. The reason I'm thinking about painting is that the ramp is more sculptured than a typical ramp and I have already encounter some difficulty with getting decals to fit well...so I may try paint. But, I still just like it clear and will be experimenting with different lighting and maybe a different stop light.

#887 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Ran a coil test. What is "top flasher"? Nothing happens for me on this test. Rest of the tests look good.

"Top Flasher" are the two flashers in the back corners of the playfield.

#889 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Measuring power at the flashers I get 27.7 -- same at the pop coil lugs. Is that to spec?
I feel like my pops could have more pop. My flippers are perfect, but the pops could use more cowbell. I've already done pop rebuilds.
I checked my Diner (11C), and I noticed it gets 38vdc at the pops.

My pop bumpers read 31.1

#894 6 years ago