(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

6 years ago

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  • 3,356 posts
  • 327 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by LGFAutos
  • Topic is favorited by 158 Pinsiders


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider vec-tor.
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#1742 2 years ago

Drill a small hole in the plastic on the lower back left side
add new spacer and washer head screw just like the top
of the left side of the plastic. The two breakage points is
a common problem with that piece of plastic. It is a
Williams design flaw. You need to find the "sweet spot"
for the modification.

1 week later
#1749 2 years ago
Quoted from FMonk:

The angle's now about 6.3 or so, and that seems to have helped the shooter ramp situation somewhat. It does seem like getting the ball all the way up the ramp is maybe a little more difficult from the shooter, so it's a good thing that I've got a new spring on the way. I think I may still have to angle the metal guide down just slightly to help though, since it still hits too high sometimes.

If you countersink the right guide wall so that the ball does not rub against
it while you are plunging it in the shooter trough, it will make the ramp shot easier.
It takes a little finessing and adjusting the screws under the playfield in
order to shift the wall to the right a little bit.

#1756 2 years ago
Quoted from FMonk:

When you say to countersink it, what specifically do you mean?

I always remove the long pine wood rail and remove the wood material
so as to make the metal guide rail fit farther onto the wood. I see
from your picture that the ball has chewed up the left side of the
shooter lane trough. Ouch! The main idea is to have the ball have
only one point of contact; the playfield. Physics and ball drag are
always a problem with early/mid-1980s solid state complex
playfield designs.

2 months later
#1787 2 years ago

Are the back box lamps working?
Did you check for the +18 volts?
Did you check the connectors in the neck?
Did you check the +18 volt bridge?

#1789 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

system 11's have bad times with the GI

That's because the connectors are underrated. The pins max out at a rating of 2 to 2 1/2 Amps.
and the more current you have... burn, burn, burn.

1 week later
#1811 2 years ago

Playfields are often seconds. I had a High Speed that had the plastic ramp switch slots
-- milled into the bottom playfield. "Only one left take it or leave it". From Williams
-- distributor back during the 1980's.

1 week later
#1820 2 years ago

Use a heavy lead diode along with hot-glue to seal the diode.
Use any diode but 1N4004, 1N4004 is too delicate of a diode
for the flipper assemblies and has a tendency to break.
There is a service bulletin that has you put each of the flipper coils
on backwards with the diodes and solder lugs facing the front
of the flipper assemblies rather than the solder lugs facing the
back coil stop.

1 week later
#1829 2 years ago

That is the scoring contacts. The solenoid is the second set of contacts
--- on the jet bumper switch stack.
Caution: side mounted switch stacks can cause a short and blow out the switch strobe.
------- e.g. Space Shuttle, PinBot.

1 week later
#1838 2 years ago
Quoted from soren:

Do anyone know of a regional selection on High Speed?

There is a jumper that is W7 that controls coinages. It might need to be cut/or needs
--- to be attached. Or you need country specific ROMs.

#1840 2 years ago
Quoted from soren:

The ROM is standard. That is what makes me scratch my head.

What about the W7 jumper?

6 months later
#2004 2 years ago

Your 23-620/ 30-2600 is a data east flipper coil.
FL 11629 is a Williams solid state power house flipper coil that was made for later game designs.
OEM are FL23-600/30-2600 in series wound not parallel.
Add service upgrade of mounting flippers coils backwards in order to keep the diodes from breaking...
Or remount diode with a heavy duty one and leave the coil in original position.

1 year later
#2593 9 months ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

upper right flipper has an SFL 19/400-30/750 coil instead. Looks original.

That is the older +28 volt flipper coil that is used on games that did not have the +50volt
supply voltage... Firepower, Black Knight, etc,etc,etc.

4 weeks later
#2655 8 months ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Can someone tell me what this board does and the value of the fried resistor[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like a early snub board setup.... Does the game have black Bosch relays? O.K. I can see
the other style of relay... That game is a middle model of Williams High Speed.
You have the Snubber relay setup before Williams made the PCB version.

1 month later
#2726 7 months ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

Hi guys, I purchased a high speed a few months ago and it is missing the rubber/rubbers up the front of the playfield below the ramp. not sure if it is meant to have 1 big rubber or 2 smaller ones, does any know this info and what size rubbers, als o how the hell do in install the new rubbers with the kickout shafts there, I had a look but not sure what needs to be removed and how.
Trevor[quoted image]

It is a large rubber ring that is doubled up.

1 week later
#2758 7 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

The rubber on my upper flipper is slowly getting cut by the metal ball guide. It’s aligned as it seemingly should be, and might even be a touch low. Is this normal?

YUP! The flipper snaps up and slightly kisses the top rail... Has to due with the
plastic link elongating over the many flips...

#2759 7 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

YUP! The flipper snaps up and slightly kisses the top rail... Has to due with the
plastic link elongating over the many flips...

And other factors as above.

4 months later
#3040 65 days ago

pin-pilot question.
Where did you get the color wires for the Switch Strobes/GI ?
I am having trouble finding those kind of things for restorations.
regards, vec-tor.
Excellent job on the High Speed.

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