There is only one rubber on Siamese post it is "I" ring gottlieb number A17493 pages 41 and 42 in manual.
Gottlieb numbers chart to inches may be on pinwiki. If you order from Steve Young he likes his part numbers.
Quoted from xrayman:No shoot again timer?
If you mean losing your ball 10 secs after shooting into play. NOPE Black Hole has no "awe poor baby" ball save timer, your tough luck.
Thanks for the help.
That was one piece of rubber that was way too big so I double wrapped it for now.
I'll order the correct part and set that timer to zero.
Quoted from xrayman:and set that timer to zero
????? timer ????? pascal board set???? or other?
Niwumpf computer.
On a different note. I've got a top center pop bumper with a stiff spring that often will not fire. The switch sits a bit high and it seems that sometimes a slow ball from twelve o'clock just bounces off without activating.
At other times, it has gone into machine gun firing mode for four to six cycles. And it blew is fuse last night but still works after fuse replacement.
Switch adjustment issue?
Pinwiki has the Gottlieb part # to rubber ring size chart:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Rubber_Ring_Chart
Quoted from xrayman:I've got a top center pop bumper with a stiff spring that often will not fire.
Well give your self a good 2hr block of time and take it apart, remove the sandpaper "floating mylar" ring if there and install a new lamp socket and spring while you are into it. Spring may be broken, binding, or spoon switch just gummed up.
The machine gunning sound like a pop bumper driver board issue. You could swap with another pop board and see if problem follows. That is only a five minute deal.
Figured it was on wiki thanks for the link. So 7/16" for the double post.
I just snagged this game. Lets get this thread hot again!!! Guy said the game powers but doesn't start. I still need to attach the head and fire it up.
Just acquired a PI80 card Janin to replace all the old boards .
Hope playing soon for the first time
Quoted from CNKay:There is only one rubber on Siamese post it is "I" ring gottlieb number A17493 pages 41 and 42 in manual.
Gottlieb numbers chart to inches may be on pinwiki. If you order from Steve Young he likes his part numbers.If you mean losing your ball 10 secs after shooting into play. NOPE Black Hole has no "awe poor baby" ball save timer, your tough luck.
A-17493 7/16" White Ring
Per pinwiki
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80
How have you guys dealt with the excessive wear underneath the pop bumpers?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/22#post-1829420
vid has an interesting suggestion. I'm trying to choose a color.
-mof
Quoted from woz:And this why you need 7 digit scoring on BH Finished the conversion a few weeks ago and all went well. Still awaiting my Player 4 display though
For those that want to convert their games to 7 digit scoring all the info is here:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/converting-any-system-80-6-digit-gottlieb-to-80a-7-digit
Thanks to Steve (blownfuse) for compiling all the conversion guide. I the followed the instructions verbatim which confirms the wiring and pinouts are correct Why did Gottlieb have to completely remap the connector pinout when they went from 6 to 7 digits? Grrrrr!!
The hardest part was finding some decent wire that was long enough and similar in colour to match the existing wire from an old wiring loom.
I also got to use a friends Hakko desoldering tool to remove the original PROMS and I must say that I was very impressed with how well it worked. Think I may pick one up myself now.
Also thanks to Ed at GPE for supplying the PROM adapter.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=140-101
The quick boot is a nice addition using the new PROM though it took me by surprise the first time I powered up!
5X bonus lit and 302,180 bonus on the lower pf I think I ended up with 350K.IMG_20140522_213154393.jpg 161 KB
Just received the last display and now the 7 digit conversion is complete!
Has anyone converted an MGOW to 7 digit? I'm not sure if it's worth the trouble but it would be cool to have
BTW all the 7 digit displays I have came from Cavemans that had been parted out - not sure how many working ones are left out there of that title.
I have a 7 digit MGoW. It's borderline to do a conversion on it because it's a tough game to roll over anyway. However, it is nice to see that 7th digit when you do.
Steve
Quoted from woz:Just received the last display and now the 7 digit conversion is complete!
Has anyone converted an MGOW to 7 digit? I'm not sure if it's worth the trouble but it would be cool to have
BTW all the 7 digit displays I have came from Cavemans that had been parted out - not sure how many working ones are left out there of that title.Black Hole 7 digit.jpg 125 KB
Quoted from northvibe:Anyone have scans of the pop bumper area(s), or a pf they could scan?
It would be HELLA cool to have decals that cover the areas of wear EXACTLY under where the old non-stick mylar patches used to be, then decal and re-cover 'em with sticky mylar...
-mof
Quoted from mof:It would be HELLA cool to have decals that cover the areas of wear EXACTLY under where the old non-stick mylar patches used to be, then decal and re-cover 'em with sticky mylar...
-mof
That's what I'm thinking!
Got sucked into a BH today - but I escaped almost unscathed!
All four corners got cabinet protectors under the legs; the front legs got new tees and new bolts as well. Did get a bit a head bump from the playfield during that part - got a little careless pulling out the old tees.
Added a lamp to the upper right corner of the playfield and another one at the base of the tube. The tube lamp is purple although it doesn't show up on camera too well.
Also changed the relay connection to make the lower playfield overheads 6V. Trying a combination of cool white and blue right now. It shows a little bright since the window is out to prep the ledge with a little paint for a replacement on Mon.
Hey guys.. Needing some help if possible. I purchased a BH and they guy had just put new plastics on. However, he did not put the clear plastic that is under the main plastic at top left corner, near the hole that drops to the 2nd level. Its clear and guilds the ball around the loop to the hole. Since he did not put this part back in, the ball hangs up on the bulbs and back of the posts.
Any chance someone may have an old one, extra? Or maybe someone could trace it for me and mark the locations for the 3 holes for the mounts?
I found this photo showing the one part I don't have, its shaped like a light bulb on the top.
Thanks,
Dirk
Quoted from DirkAkron:Hey guys.. Needing some help if possible. I purchased a BH and they guy had just put new plastics on. However, he did not put the clear plastic that is under the main plastic at top left corner, near the hole that drops to the 2nd level. Its clear and guilds the ball around the loop to the hole. Since he did not put this part back in, the ball hangs up on the bulbs and back of the posts.
Any chance someone may have an old one, extra? Or maybe someone could trace it for me and mark the locations for the 3 holes for the mounts?
I found this photo showing the one part I don't have, its shaped like a light bulb on the top.
Thanks,
Dirk
I have a used one....... I live in Europe, can ship to the USA although it is a bit expensive. PM me if you are interested.
Quoted from DirkAkron:Hey guys.. Needing some help if possible. I purchased a BH and they guy had just put new plastics on. However, he did not put the clear plastic that is under the main plastic at top left corner, near the hole that drops to the 2nd level. Its clear and guilds the ball around the loop to the hole. Since he did not put this part back in, the ball hangs up on the bulbs and back of the posts.
Any chance someone may have an old one, extra? Or maybe someone could trace it for me and mark the locations for the 3 holes for the mounts?
I found this photo showing the one part I don't have, its shaped like a light bulb on the top.
Thanks,
DirkBLclearplastic.JPG 51 KB
I can scan or trace. Also I was going to order new plastics, but just haven't had time to work on bh yet.....
If you can get a scan of the piece you're missing you might be able have a local plastics shop make it for you. We have a place here in Portland called Tap Plastics and they've been able to create clear plastics for me at very reasonable prices.
Quoted from DirkAkron:Hey guys.. Needing some help if possible. I purchased a BH and they guy had just put new plastics on. However, he did not put the clear plastic that is under the main plastic at top left corner, near the hole that drops to the 2nd level. Its clear and guilds the ball around the loop to the hole. Since he did not put this part back in, the ball hangs up on the bulbs and back of the posts.
Any chance someone may have an old one, extra? Or maybe someone could trace it for me and mark the locations for the 3 holes for the mounts?
I found this photo showing the one part I don't have, its shaped like a light bulb on the top.
Thanks,
DirkThe plastic that covers that area, covers the whole top 1/5 of the pf. If you'd like, I can scan the whole thing, but you'll need to stitch it together and print it for the plastic.
BLclearplastic.JPG 51 KB
Quoted from Cheddar:I shipped Dirk one of these. He should be good in a couple days
ah cool. I just sent him the scan last night, but if you shipped him a real one even better! Be nice to remake the clear plastics as mine was yellow'ish
Quoted from Cheddar:I shipped Dirk one of these. He should be good in a couple days
Thank you Cheddar !!
Hey guys,
Looking for some advice on my next step. Restoring a Black Hole. I'm having issues with the coil that resets the lower playfield 4-drop target group always being on. Here are the steps I've done so far:
-Gottlieb ground wire mods
-Rebuilt the power supply board
-Repinned the A3-J1 connector between the MPU and driver boards
-Replaced the power transistor and secondary transistor that drives the coil on the driver board
-Checked the switches on all 4 of the drops
When I first started troubleshooting this, it would happen about 4 games in. Now it happens almost immediately when launching the 1st game. Thinking it has to be some kind of a short and all my dinking around has made it worse. I'm about out of ideas on anything else would cause that coil to always have 44V driving it. Any ideas on my next step? I've plum run out.
Have you made sure the A1J4 connection is good from the CPU to driver board? With the power off, try re-seating it to see if the issue improves. You may have to clean, re-tin the pads and replace the connector clip to make it solid.
Steve
Quoted from Jimmyd044:Happy to say I just picked up one of my grail pins. Looks to be lightly routed. Here's some PF pics. I will post more pics when everything is up and running.
Wow, you look to be double lucky in this case... congrats!
-mof
anyone have good paint near the pops or a pf to scan so we could make new decals for the pop bumpers?
I was thinking if we got a scan we could just make circular decals that would go like the mylar did.
Quoted from Cheddar:I shipped Dirk one of these. He should be good in a couple days
The part arrived today and I had installed within minutes !! I thank you again Cheddar !!
Quoted from DirkAkron:The part arrived today and I had installed within minutes !! I thank you again Cheddar !!
Enjoy!
top five most infuriatingly brutal (yet uncannily common!) Black Hole moments:
5. The obvious -- "RE-ENTRY ATTEMPT HAS FAILED."
4. Even worse -- light both lower playfield gravity accelerators. head downstairs to rack up a monster bonus. immediately brick a shot and drain. re-entry failed, AND accelerators reset.
3. lock a ball on the upper playfield. drain. watch as the locked ball drops against the dead flippers. you can't help it. you know they're unpowered, but you mash the flipper buttons anyway trying in vain to save that doomed ball.
2. "YES! I DID IT! MULTIBALL! Here comes the second ball ... oh crap ... oh no. did i complete a bank downstairs before losing those two balls? i did, right? no? nooooooooo!"
1. try a normally-safe catch or cradle on the upper right flipper, only to have the ball push the re-entry gate open, squeeze through, and drain! DEVIOUS! It looks safe! Is it even supposed to do that?? OK, OK, one more game....
Hey Steve,
Think we are talking about the same connector. You say to reset the A1-J4. That is the connector from the mpu to the driver board with the 3" wires or so, yes? That is the one I repined all the connectors already. Is it possible to still have an issue where you would have to retin the pads above and beyond new pins? Seems pretty tight, especially with the new wire. Thanks!
Quoted from pezpunk:top five most infuriatingly brutal (yet uncannily common!) Black Hole moments:
5. The obvious -- "RE-ENTRY ATTEMPT HAS FAILED."
4. Even worse -- light both lower playfield gravity accelerators. head downstairs to rack up a monster bonus. immediately brick a shot and drain. re-entry failed, AND accelerators reset.
3. lock a ball on the upper playfield. drain. watch as the locked ball drops against the dead flippers. you can't help it. you know they're unpowered, but you mash the flipper buttons anyway trying in vain to save that doomed ball.
2. "YES! I DID IT! MULTIBALL! Here comes the second ball ... oh crap ... oh no. did i complete a bank downstairs before losing those two balls? i did, right? no? nooooooooo!"
1. try a normally-safe catch or cradle on the upper right flipper, only to have the ball push the re-entry gate open, squeeze through, and drain! DEVIOUS! It looks safe! Is it even supposed to do that?? OK, OK, one more game....
I think you summed up the BH experience perfectly!
If you've already rebuilt the connector, all the hard work is done. I still would re-tin all the pads since they can also be a source problem.
Steve
Quoted from Slinger:Hey Steve,
Think we are talking about the same connector. You say to reset the A1-J4. That is the connector from the mpu to the driver board with the 3" wires or so, yes? That is the one I repined all the connectors already. Is it possible to still have an issue where you would have to retin the pads above and beyond new pins? Seems pretty tight, especially with the new wire. Thanks!
just thought I'd give a heads up that I have my Black Hole up for sale. Won't boot into demo mode and displays flicker. $800.
details on my craigslist ad
washingtondc.craigslist.org link
shoot me a PM if interested
Quoted from BrewersArcade:just thought I'd give a heads up that I have my Black Hole up for sale. Won't boot into demo mode and displays flicker. $800.
details on my craigslist ad
" target="_blank">washingtondc.craigslist.org link
shoot me a PM if interested
someone talk me out of or into this game Owned a BH 3 diff times...Love the challenge and this one looks nice....how hard is it to bring a non working BH back to life...who knows
Quoted from blownfuse:I think they're easy, you should buy it.
Steve
Be careful Steve...I think I called you 3-4 times when fixing one of my early BH's
Quoted from billsfanmd:someone talk me out of or into this game Owned a BH 3 diff times...Love the challenge and this one looks nice....how hard is it to bring a non working BH back to life...who knows
do it, do it, do it, do it.
LOL, right now as some of my local friends will tell ya, I'm pretty hard to locate these days. I figure the way things are going, 2015 has to be better than 2014.
Steve
Quoted from billsfanmd:Be careful Steve...I think I called you 3-4 times when fixing one of my early BH's
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-hole-club-members-only/page/8 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.