They were originally slated for release by the fall so September/October is when I would expect them. Rumor is that CPR is going to re-release the plastics since they have been sold out for a while. I'm working on a neat little mod for WCS.

That would make sense since CPR is releasing the plastics, playfield, and the side art is going to be available soon.

Yes it involves a WCS

Don't forget to gap the flipper bats. If your new at it use a credit card to gap the flipper from the bushing either on top or below the playfield.

So there is an oval hole that the cam rides in creating the side to side movement. The hole maybe worn out. I will take a picture of what I am talking about when I get home.

The spot lights are a nice add-on but that purple washes out the art.

Here is a picture of the back of the goalie. Noticed the slot the cam rides in and the correct spring. Don't notice how dirty my spare part is. image.jpeg

This is also a common problem. Cliffy once suggested putting double-sided tape under the protector but I don't think it is wise. The Mantis circle hole protectors are a better fit.

The issue is that you are applying tape to an area that already has wear. You are going to pull up artwork. If you don't think see what happens to people who have mylar installed and are trying to remove it. You can use a stronger adhesive like carpet tape but you run into the same issue.

Mantis did sell them at one time. They still offer the hole protector for TOTAN which is the same fit for WCS.

Gene has a ton of these Soccer Balls. Every time he comes to a show he has a couple dozen of them. They are not as good as the originals as the black lines wear off quicker but with nothing else available you take what you can get.

Burnt GI connector is the first thing I would check out.

Those cliffys are going to pop back up after 100 games or so.

My WCS with Cointaker LED goodness.

IMG_0709.JPG

Look back on page 6.

Can you get me a pic of that?

I already told you I posted that pic before on page six. Here it is again.

image.jpeg

Party Zone is a fun game but it gets old fairly quick. Ramp shot, ramp shot, ramp shot, ramp shot.

The purple Cliffys in the skill shot ruin the way that the game plays. The cliffy posts have no rebound so making the skill shots require no skill. It looks pretty though.

The original rubbers in the skill shot area are the larger 7/8 rubbers not the standard post rubbers.

You should go over the flipper mechs as a general purchase rule of thumb. There are many things that affect flipper performance. If you move the flipper bat by hand and feel it "dragging" then you most likely have a mushroomed plunger or the bushing in the linkage is worn out. You may also want to check the EOS switch like tucson mentioned. Make sure it is opening at the very last moment. You may also want to check that the coil is secure and not freely moving as the wiggle room will lessen the plungers momentum. Flipper coils usually don't need replaced unless you can't remove the coil sleeve. This means that the coil has a deformed cavity from prolonged use and will cause more resistance on the plunger. Lastly make sure that the gap between the white flipper bushing and the bat is about a credit cards thickness.

So one thing you can check to make sure the interlock is working correctly is:

Take the backglass out first and make sure all the LED's are lit when the game is powered on. Then open the coin door. If the interlock is working correctly the high voltage LED's should turn off.

There are two switches on the inside of the cabinet. One is an interlock to kill power when the door is open and another is the CPU interlock that prevents the settings to be altered when the coin door is closed.

What pieces are you looking for?

Mine does.

It looks different than the original. The print doesn't go as far down.

That is a bad idea. Try an use an ultra thin adhesive like carpet tape.

This works for about a hundred games. Then they start to lift again. The cliffy hole protectors are garbage but they are the only thing available so it is what it is.

Planetary Pinball has WCS plastics in stock for those who need a set.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PP&Product_Code=PPS-31-1925-COMP&Category_Code=

Unfortunately the 2 plastics you need are the ones that are always broken. You just need to pony up.

Test it in switch test and verify that the diode isn't the problem first

Haha you'll feel better when pinball inc releases the repro ramps that are thicker and crystal clear compared to the 20 year old ones. Probably cheaper too.

It's to stop ball traps.