It's quiet in here.......

if it is a burnt connect id say just to replace it. use a better connector, cant remember the type. also use leds so that it doesnt happen again to the rest of the original connectors...

I can help you replace burnt connectors if that is he issue.

Trifurcons are considered an upgrade over the original IDC connectors. In a home environment I just install new IDC connectors.

Today I join your ranks! So excited... Going over to buy my friend's after work... this is going to drag...

Awesome! Congrats!

Thanks. Now I need to decide if I led the gi or not... Plan on doing the inserts but not sure on the gi. Guess I will see how I like it standard first.
Next game to pick up is my father's Gottlieb Kewpie Doll em. It has been in storage for years. fired it up a year ago and it worked great, just dirty as hell. Going to shop that out first then move onto WCS. My friend kept the WCS fairly clean to begin with.

I put cool white frosted in the GI and I think it looks amazing. I am not affected by strobing at all on it.

Good to know. I will have to try some out I guess and figure out what I like.

I think I'll be tossing LED's into WCS at some point. Right now it resides between Wh20 (which I've led'd more than I ever thought I would..) and AC/DC Premium. WCS is definitely the odd man out, looking quite a bit yellow.

WCS is safely in my house now. Played a few games last night. Majorly rearranged the room before we moved it in. Took way too long to do that, cant wait to play it more today after work.
Only broken plastic (that I saw) is the header plastic and I have a new one of those. Any word on the repo ramps? Mine are cracked at the tabs, nowhere else thankfully. May just repair them and roll with it.

The header plastic being broken is pretty common from what I have read. I need to order a new one for mine as well.

I ordered a set of plastic protectors. Hopefully my cliffys come in soon. Gonna clean the game and wax it. Will do cliffy and plastic protectors at the same time

Yep, shopping these out it quite a job, best to do everything all at once.

So when I was investigating what to order I noticed some damage at the ball drop. There is a thread here, any ideas on how to fix it or stop the damage from getting worse?
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wcs-cracked-clear-at-ball-drop

Not to hijack your question, but as of Monday I am the proud owner of a WCS!!! I can't get enough of this pin!

Congrats!

Ya I have that damage at the ball drop above the rollover and below where the ramp drops. The ball will actually hang there sometimes. I am going to cut some small clear vinyl circles to put there to help. Hopefully that will at least keep it from getting worse.

They were originally slated for release by the fall so September/October is when I would expect them. Rumor is that CPR is going to re-release the plastics since they have been sold out for a while. I'm working on a neat little mod for WCS.

Care to elaborate?

Would the clear vinyl be removable without damage? I am worried putting mylar on it will rip up the clear if I ever want to remove it.

Just a little tease: Guess which game should have new ramps available from Pinball Inc. by the end of the year. If you guessed Bad Cats, that would ALSO be correct... <grin>

It is certainly possible if the clear is cracked or if any part of the playfield is exposed. I would clean it as best you can and then put some polyurethane clear on with a small brush to seal in the area. Once this cures, then I would put mylar over that. Pinball life sells nice mylar for inlane drops.

That was my first thought on how to repair it. I found this article as well.
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/pinball-restoration/playfield/205-repairing-clear-coated-playfield-planking

That would make sense since CPR is releasing the plastics, playfield, and the side art is going to be available soon.

Yes it involves a WCS

So I will be repairing with some nail polish. The divot is not that bad. Ordered some removable mylar. if anyone needs some hit me up. Will cover cost and shipping for a few people .
In other news I made it to the world cup last night (though on a buy in so I do not count the score). Lost though. Few reasons are that my goalie doesnt move all the way to the right and my flippers are horribly misaligned. All will be fixed in due time.

Unless your flippers are visually out of whack, take a look at the ball action coming off your metal inlane guides. I've noticed that the guides can cause some wonky action if they aren't perfectly aligned to deliver the ball smoothly to the flipper. I fixed a fellow pinsider's alignment issues by adjusting the metal guides even though at first I thought it was a flipper alignment issue.

Either way it is an easy 10 minute fix.

they are sitting almost completely over the alignment holes. played one on route that you couldnt make the goal and adjusted the flippers to be in line with the alignment holes and it played much better. i trap the ball a lot when i play. Even shots from a trapped flipper did not make it to the goal when normally they would have.

The flippers should certainly be in line with the alignment holes. Jam a toothpick in that hole to help you make sure alignment is correct.

If the balls are bouncing onto the flipper from the inlane it is a guide alignment issue and you will need to adjust the guide slightly so that it sits further away from you. This will allow the ball to roll smoothly onto the flipper instead of making "hard contact" with the portion of the flipper resting against the guide. Not sure if you have this problem, but thought I would throw it out there just in case.

Here is a question, do you align your flippers with the rubbers on or off? I used to align them with the rubber on but was unable to make the shuttle ramp on bop so I went back and aligned with the rubber off and was able to make the shot. Aligned the WCS (my friend's machine, he is an op) with the rubber off and again, able to make goals easily. Before was unable to make them.

It should be with them off, but I leave the rubbers on (snicker) to aid in alignment. Just jam the tooth pick in between the bottom of the flipper and the rubber.

That is a great idea. Need less hands that way! Thanks so much!

Don't forget to gap the flipper bats. If your new at it use a credit card to gap the flipper from the bushing either on top or below the playfield.

Anyone looking for a NOS PF on e-bay

ebay.com link: Williams NOS Word Cup Soccer 94 Playfield

That is wild, I was just going to come post here that I am picking up a NOS WCS pf this upcoming Wednesday (so I can then look for a game with a beater pf to do an eventual full on restoration to).

What do you guys think the ebay one will go for?

I am paying a bit more than that>>> hope I am not overpaying. I am picking it up in chitown.

Summertime is tough to even find a spare evening. Did you determine in was a burnt connector, if so I can help you to easily swap out both the male and female sides. I think it is J121 you want to look at to see if it is burnt. That was the exact same issue with my FT GI when I originally got it.

Pretty easy to desolder and replace the male side and the IDC female is even easier.

I just put a Flipper Fidelity speaker upgrade in my WCS. It sounds better, but I don't know if it is $140 better. I will have to play around with it some more.

Yep, have a gift card that I cut specifically for this purpose

Ordered up parts last night. Mostly coil sleeves and flipper rebuild kit. If the flippers end up being fine I will just save it for if/when I get a demo man or dredd.
Few problems I am having is the diverter sometimes gets stuck in the middle. It fixes itself next time it fires (assume this is just a dirty sleeve, will replace and see how it is).
More troubling is that the goalie is not traveling all the way to the sides. It travels further to the left than it does to the right. I looked to see if the wire was prematurely triggering the opto but it doesnt look like it is. Any ideas here?

My goalie has a similar problem, but it is the other direction. It isn't enough to really affect play, but after watching some videos of other machines, mine definitely doesn't go far enough to the left.

Mine is pretty bad as there is only about a ball width on the one side and far less on the other... makes goals next to impossible.

I am sure mine affects play some, but not as bad as yours sounds. I can usually shoot around mine unless it is multiball then it is save after save

This is often caused by the wire for the goalie "hit" switch not being properly seated within its guide as it goes down the back of the goalie. This allows the wire to become separated from the post that it rides down. The wire then trips the opto that indicates the end of the side-to-side goalie movement stroke and causes the motor to reverse prematurely. There are little raised dots that define the wire path in the moving post. Make sure your wire is seated in that vertical track.