(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 13 hours ago by BigAl56
  • Topic is favorited by 204 Pinsiders

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#5701 78 days ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

EBD was a very popular title at the time. While you could get big discounts on other pins you paid close to list for this one.
I'll bet if you paid full list for an EB you could get them to throw in a Spectrum for free!

I played EBD in the arcade when it was first released. We had a blast with it. Good times that I remember well. I read on RGP that new Ballys cost around $1500 in the early 80's. But not verified.

#5702 78 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Ballys cost around $1500 in the early 80's. But not verified.

Premier Gold Wings was $1600 plus tax NIB.
Williams F14 was $2800.00 plus tax NIB.
Operators fund that going to the next state over they could save several hundreds of dollars.

#5703 72 days ago

Hey all.. MPU Issue I could use some help with. So, since I bought my EBD-LE, I've had intermittent boot issues, that seem to be caused by something pushing/pulling when the backglass door is closed or when the machine gets moved. Sometimes if I leave it on, it will just boot up on it's own. Sometimes, not. Recently I reseated everything, and it had been stable for a bit, so I installed some Comet LED lighting (I like them, thanks) and the Comet LED Adaptors. Everything was working great... so I closed up the BG. The next time I turn it on, it doesn't boot. I open up the BG again, reseat the J4, cycle the power, and it boots up just fine. I played it for a while - no issues. I close the BG. Next day I turn it on.. No boot again. This time I try reseating everything, nothing. BG door is propped open... no luck.

Th MPU light comes on and stays locked (as it does whenever I have this issue). Bridging pins 39&40 on the U9 6800 chip does not start the boot or reset. No evidence of corrosion (though I was planning to replace the battery next). Seems like something was pushing or pulling on something, but now adjustments are not clearing the problem.

It possible that the Comet adaptors may have caused some more pushing on whatever was causing it, but they did operate perfectly (even though they do not seat well) before I close the BG door again.

Should I save myself the hassle and just a buy one of the new MPUs? No battery and a free play setting seems pretty tempting, but I'd rather know the problem is the MPU before I buy a new one.

Thoughts? Thanks!

MPU (resized).pngMPU (resized).pngzLED adaptor (resized).pngzLED adaptor (resized).png
#5704 71 days ago

LE games have a rats-nest of cabling and connectors behind the display panel. Try opening that up and inspect and reseat the cable connectors behind it as they often are not fully pressed together.

#5705 71 days ago
Quoted from IAmTheCzar:

Hey all.. MPU Issue I could use some help with. So, since I bought my EBD-LE, I've had intermittent boot issues, that seem to be caused by something pushing/pulling when the backglass door is closed or when the machine gets moved. Sometimes if I leave it on, it will just boot up on it's own. Sometimes, not. Recently I reseated everything, and it had been stable for a bit, so I installed some Comet LED lighting (I like them, thanks) and the Comet LED Adaptors. Everything was working great... so I closed up the BG. The next time I turn it on, it doesn't boot. I open up the BG again, reseat the J4, cycle the power, and it boots up just fine. I played it for a while - no issues. I close the BG. Next day I turn it on.. No boot again. This time I try reseating everything, nothing. BG door is propped open... no luck.
Th MPU light comes on and stays locked (as it does whenever I have this issue). Bridging pins 39&40 on the U9 6800 chip does not start the boot or reset. No evidence of corrosion (though I was planning to replace the battery next). Seems like something was pushing or pulling on something, but now adjustments are not clearing the problem.
It possible that the Comet adaptors may have caused some more pushing on whatever was causing it, but they did operate perfectly (even though they do not seat well) before I close the BG door again.
Should I save myself the hassle and just a buy one of the new MPUs? No battery and a free play setting seems pretty tempting, but I'd rather know the problem is the MPU before I buy a new one.
Thoughts? Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I can't tell from your picture if there is supposed to be one there, but it looks like you might be missing a grounding screw in the upper left corner of the board. A missing grounding screw can cause intermittent issues when jostling a machine of that vintage. Worth checking.

#5706 66 days ago

I took my playfield apart and forgot to take pics of the topside. Where do the 6x smaller plastic posts (blue) go? Are they for the top lanes under the blue lane guides? Thanks in advance

#5707 66 days ago
Quoted from splattii:

I took my playfield apart and forgot to take pics of the topside. Where do the 6x smaller plastic posts (blue) go? Are they for the top lanes under the blue lane guides? Thanks in advance

One each under the slings for sure (the two talls go to the long side corners, and the short goes opposite, where there's no hole in the plastic)

The others are going to be in similar situations, where there is a plastic or similar but no attachment through the plastic - likely not the top lane guides. I can check mine later if I'm near it sometimes it's hard to tell when everything is together.

#5708 66 days ago
Quoted from splattii:

I took my playfield apart and forgot to take pics of the topside. Where do the 6x smaller plastic posts (blue) go? Are they for the top lanes under the blue lane guides? Thanks in advance

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well/page/69#post-5956907

#5709 64 days ago

So my EBD has one of these prototype resin playfields. It's made out of.... resin or plastic or something of that nature?

Anybody have an idea of how many of these they made?

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#5710 64 days ago

No more than 300. The composite playfields would show up from time-to-time for pilot runs, typically the initial 300 games for field testing and dealer samples.

#5711 64 days ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

No more than 300. The composite playfields would show up from time-to-time for pilot runs, typically the initial 300 games for field testing and dealer samples.

Al, will a machine with these composite playfields typically increase its value??

#5712 64 days ago

I have one of these Eight Ball Deluxe machines with the plastics playfield. It's #40 off the line and has the early White Pop Bumper Caps as well. This game was owned by an operator back in 1981 when new and was then put into storage in 1984. It sat there until 2017 when I got that operators lot of games and parts. It was then stored from 2017 to 2021 until I finally added it to my collection. I have owned a few Eight Ball Deluxe machines over the years but none of them played like this one. With this playfield this machine plays fast and smooth. This is the only one I have ever seen in person with this type of playfield. I did own a Bally Speak Easy that had the plastic playfield but that was standard since none of those games had a wood playfield. The only other title I saw with this plastic playfield was a Bally Mata Hari in which they say about only 20 of these prototype machines were made.

Here is a video of my Eight Ball Deluxe I have available on my You Tube Channel.

#5713 63 days ago

I'm replacing some cracked plastics on my EBD LE - I got the new plastics, but the metal towers that support the top plastics are crimped to the old plastics.

Can they be removed and installed on the new ones, or is there someone that carries new ones? I'm not finding them. Advice appreciated.

tower (resized).pngtower (resized).png
#5714 63 days ago
Quoted from Dakine747:

Al, will a machine with these composite playfields typically increase its value??

Good question but I do not know if having the composite playfield makes a difference in value. I have seen no evidence that it does.
In general, a first 10 or 300 game, IMHO, should have slightly higher value due to them being part of very limited runs. However the market is what the market is.

#5715 63 days ago
Quoted from IAmTheCzar:

I'm replacing some cracked plastics on my EBD LE - I got the new plastics, but the metal towers that support the top plastics are crimped to the old plastics.

Can they be removed and installed on the new ones, or is there someone that carries new ones? I'm not finding them. Advice appreciated.

Those are bell posts. They can be removed from the old plastics by carefully heating them with a soldering iron. Once removed you can gently close the flare at the top and reinstall them onto the new plastics. There are a few YouTube videos out there showing how to do this.

#5716 63 days ago

Just came across a YT video - Thanks again Al!

#5717 63 days ago
Quoted from FIREPOWER1980:

I have one of these Eight Ball Deluxe machines with the plastics playfield. It's #40 off the line and has the early White Pop Bumper Caps as well. This game was owned by an operator back in 1981 when new and was then put into storage in 1984. It sat there until 2017 when I got that operators lot of games and parts. It was then stored from 2017 to 2021 until I finally added it to my collection. I have owned a few Eight Ball Deluxe machines over the years but none of them played like this one. With this playfield this machine plays fast and smooth. This is the only one I have ever seen in person with this type of playfield. I did own a Bally Speak Easy that had the plastic playfield but that was standard since none of those games had a wood playfield. The only other title I saw with this plastic playfield was a Bally Mata Hari in which they say about only 20 of these prototype machines were made.
Here is a video of my Eight Ball Deluxe I have available on my You Tube Channel.

Very cool to hear the history of your game. The cabinet of mine is in considerably worse shape, but the playfield is immaculate as well. Plays amazingly.

Where did you find the #40 marker?

#5718 63 days ago

My game was also an early run with white bumper caps, but with a wood playfield.

The s/n was stamped in two places, on the left side of both the head and the cabinet. I had it re-stenciled and lost the original s/n stamp when it was sanded and repainted. I took pics so I can restamp the original number back if I decide.

Here is a link to database of serial numbers.

https://www.ipsnd.net/view.aspx?id=762

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#5719 62 days ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Where did you find the #40 marker?

Bally serial nos. start at 1001, so serial number for the game would be 1040. Very early in the pilot run.

#5720 62 days ago

duplicate

#5721 59 days ago
Quoted from IAmTheCzar:

but the metal towers that support the top plastics are crimped to the old plastics.
Can they be removed and installed on the new ones, or is there someone that carries new ones? I'm not finding them.

I also searched for those "bells" and did not find aftermarket replicas. So, I guess, you have to reuse the old ones. I managed to remove them with caution and stick them into the new clear plastics.

#5722 59 days ago
Quoted from Thunfisch:

I also searched for those "bells" and did not find aftermarket replicas. So, I guess, you have to reuse the old ones. I managed to remove them with caution and stick them into the new clear plastics.

Yes you must reuse them. I buy used plastics at shows that have them. They come up nicely after tumbling in walnut.
I pop them out with a soldering iron tip. If they are not crushed from over tightening the mounting screws to tightly then I use a automotive wire crimper to re-shape the collar. Insert them and re-crimp with a broad center punch. I have also reinstalled them in reverse order with a hot soldering iron tip. It's tricky and takes practice but sometimes the melted plastic fills the hole in the bell and has to be cleaned out with a Dremel.

#5723 58 days ago

Overhauled an SEB. Now it's serviceable since the MOC3011 and relay are socketed.

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#5724 58 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Overhauled an SEB. Now it's serviceable since the MOC3011 and relay are socketed.

Hope you have the relay socket clamp so the relay doesn't fall out from vibration

#5725 57 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Hope you have the relay socket clamp so the relay doesn't fall out from vibration

I thought of that but the relay fits fairly tight. I think I have a clamp that will fit.

#5726 57 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I thought of that but the relay fits fairly tight. I think I have a clamp that will fit.

Use a zip tie.

#5728 51 days ago

I need a Guinea pig who wants a new decal set on their targets.

Rules
1)You must take pictures for me to put on my site

2) you must own eight ball deluxe
3) you must love pinball

Sets once posted will be 15% off with a code found here

Sets are made with vinyl with a gloss laminate overlay.

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1 week later
#5729 43 days ago

If you run warm white LEDs or incandescents (me!) in your GI, try two 1X cool white LEDs behind the "Shoot Again" on the backglass. I think it makes the color pop without looking 'LED-ish'. Just compensating for how lousy warm-color lights are with the dark blue and purple ink. Before, I basically never even noticed the Shoot Again light because it was so dim and gray.

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#5730 41 days ago

I asked this a while back and cannot remember what I did to the 1st ebd, did anyone put a t-nut on the right side mini post?

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#5731 41 days ago

Yes, I did, you have to recess it to get it by the drop bank.

#5732 41 days ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Very cool to hear the history of your game. The cabinet of mine is in considerably worse shape, but the playfield is immaculate as well. Plays amazingly.
Where did you find the #40 marker?

The number is on the left side of the head and cabinet. Here is a picture of the one on the cabinet showing it's #40

IMG_20240612_103058894 (resized).jpgIMG_20240612_103058894 (resized).jpg
#5733 41 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Yes, I did, you have to recess it to get it by the drop bank.

Is it imperative if there's good threads left still?

#5734 40 days ago

Mostly complete plastics set. PM if interested.

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#5735 40 days ago
Quoted from FIREPOWER1980:

The number is on the left side of the head and cabinet. Here is a picture of the one on the cabinet showing it's #40[quoted image]

My game is 170, also an early white bumper cap game. My serial number was sanded down when I had the cabinet re-stenciled.

I have "before" pics and was thinking of restamping it back.

Does anyone know the correct font, or maybe a link to the correct stamping tool to use?

#5736 40 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Yes, I did, you have to recess it to get it by the drop bank.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

Is it imperative if there's good threads left still?

After getting the full drop bank out, yes, totally see it now. I can recess the tnut, then I have an extended thread post. I'll just cut the thread to make it flush with the bottom of the tnut and use some blue locktite? and it should be good!
If you use the short length thread post it will barely thread.

#5737 40 days ago
Quoted from RTS:

My game is 170, also an early white bumper cap game. My serial number was sanded down when I had the cabinet re-stenciled.
I have "before" pics and was thinking of restamping it back.
Does anyone know the correct font, or maybe a link to the correct stamping tool to use?

I measured them a while back, I think they're 5/8 or 3/4 inch in height. The punch set for that size for numbers and letters was too pricey for me for only using a couple of times.

#5738 39 days ago
Quoted from RTS:

Does anyone know the correct font, or maybe a link to the correct stamping tool to use?

My Playboy and Supersonic measure about 1/2" height text.
My Medusa and Fathom measure about 7/16" height text.

Look on ebay for letter and number stamp sets.

#5739 39 days ago

Harbor freight sells these stamp sets cheap iirc

1 week later
#5740 32 days ago

My EBD is no longer booting. It had an inconsistency where the sound wouldn't work after turning it on. I'd have to turn it off and on once or twice before it would boot up normally with sound.

However, now the MPU flashes twice and the game will not boot at all. Displays are dead. A few random pf lights are on. Manual says the problem is the MPU board. But replacing the board did not fix it.

I replaced the original MPU with an Alltek, and it still fails to boot. Any ideas where the problem is located?

#5741 32 days ago
Quoted from RTS:

My EBD is no longer booting. It had an inconsistency where the sound wouldn't work after turning it on. I'd have to turn it off and on once or twice before it would boot up normally with sound.
However, now the MPU flashes twice and the game will not boot at all. Displays are dead. A few random pf lights are on. Manual says the problem is the MPU board. But replacing the board did not fix it.
I replaced the original MPU with an Alltek, and it still fails to boot. Any ideas where the problem is located?

Always start at the rectifier board. Verify voltages at test points. If good , go to the solenoid driver and do the same. Be careful testing on these boards since there's high voltage on each for the score displays.

The mpu needs 5V and 12V to boot. Also needs 43V for the 7th and final flash. The 5 and 12V come from the solenoid driver board. If only getting 2 flashes on mpu if I remember correctly the 5101 ram chip is bad. U8.

All the info you need is on Pinwiki.com bally/stern section.

#5742 32 days ago
Quoted from RTS:

My EBD is no longer booting. It had an inconsistency where the sound wouldn't work after turning it on. I'd have to turn it off and on once or twice before it would boot up normally with sound.
However, now the MPU flashes twice and the game will not boot at all. Displays are dead. A few random pf lights are on. Manual says the problem is the MPU board. But replacing the board did not fix it.
I replaced the original MPU with an Alltek, and it still fails to boot. Any ideas where the problem is located?

If still having sound issues after game is running, try the following:

Turn volume and speech pots on the board a few times. These are suseptible to dirt and oxidation due to their open design. I change them on all S&T boards with the newer style when I re-cap them.

Turn the main volume control on the coin door as well. They get flaky with age.

Reseat the connectors on the S&T board. Even the two pin for the speaker.

This one may sound strange but the GI power in the backbox must be good since the S&T gets it's power from a connection from the backbox lamp panel via a orange wire connected to the GI power. From there it goes through a 24 pin square Molex connector and then to the board J1 pin 7. Verify GI voltage there. Check for cold solder joints on header pins.

Count boot flashes on S&T and consult pinwiki for boot sequence diagnosis.

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#5743 32 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

If still having sound issues after game is running, try the following:
Turn volume and speech pots on the board a few times. These are suseptible to dirt and oxidation due to their open design. I change them on all S&T boards with the newer style when I re-cap them.
Turn the main volume control on the coin door as well. They get flaky with age.
Reseat the connectors on the S&T board. Even the two pin for the speaker.
This one may sound strange but the GI power in the backbox must be good since the S&T gets it's power from a connection from the backbox lamp panel via a orange wire connected to the GI power. From there it goes through a 24 pin square Molex connector and then to the board J1 pin 7. Verify GI voltage there. Check for cold solder joints on header pins.
Count boot flashes on S&T and consult pinwiki for boot sequence diagnosis.
[quoted image][quoted image]

The easy way to test s&t power is at tp4. The GI power gets regulated to 5Vdc.

#5744 32 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

The easy way to test s&t power is at tp4. The GI power gets regulated to 5Vdc.

Correction, -5V at TP4

#5745 32 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Correction, -5V at TP4

I'm learning as well while looking at the schematics. There's 12V at J1 pin 10 s&t board. So TP3 should be 11.5V

#5746 30 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

If still having sound issues after game is running, try the following:
Turn volume and speech pots on the board a few times. These are suseptible to dirt and oxidation due to their open design. I change them on all S&T boards with the newer style when I re-cap them.
Turn the main volume control on the coin door as well. They get flaky with age.
Reseat the connectors on the S&T board. Even the two pin for the speaker.
This one may sound strange but the GI power in the backbox must be good since the S&T gets it's power from a connection from the backbox lamp panel via a orange wire connected to the GI power. From there it goes through a 24 pin square Molex connector and then to the board J1 pin 7. Verify GI voltage there. Check for cold solder joints on header pins.
Count boot flashes on S&T and consult pinwiki for boot sequence diagnosis.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you for your replies. I did some more troubleshooting.

Quick background: The MPU board, the power rectifier board, and the solenoid driver board are all new.

I discovered when I lift the playfield and turn on the game, it boots normally and everything works.

Then when I lowered it, a panoply of seemingly unrelated issues appear.

[B, C, and D rollover switches don't work.

X insert stays lit.

Player 2 display is erratic.

DT 2 is out. DT 3 acts like DT 2. Other drop targets are all okay.

Left outlane won't score special when lit. ]

When pf is lowered, it's all good. So issue appears to be under the pf. Nothing visually obvious, but it seems like perhaps a shorted switch diode pressing somewhere when pf is down. I don't think it's a connector.

I will investigate further, but please advise if I'm on the right track regarding a switch diode, and if so, if there's a smart way to proceed.

#5747 30 days ago

I had a similar issue and discovered that the wire or diode for the outhole switch would touch the lock down bar receiver when the play field was down causing my problem.

#5748 30 days ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

I had a similar issue and discovered that the wire or diode for the outhole switch would touch the lock down bar receiver when the play field was down causing my problem.

Thanks for this info. I'm convinced there is a hairline short under the pf somewhere.

If I give a slight twist to the raised pf, I can cause the short. Trying to find the actual wire location will be the challenge. But at least I believe I've determined the culprit..

#5749 30 days ago
Quoted from RTS:

Thanks for this info. I'm convinced there is a hairline short under the pf somewhere.
If I give a slight twist to the raised pf, I can cause the short. Trying to find the actual wire location will be the challenge. But at least I believe I've determined the culprit..

Found the problem. It was a flaky diode on the top A rollover switch.

Nothing visually wrong, but when I pushed at it , I could manually create the short on and off.

The solder was all good. I just bent at the tab on the switch, and it seemed to strengthen the connection. It'll probably flake out again and then I'll replace it.

#5750 29 days ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

I had a similar issue and discovered that the wire or diode for the outhole switch would touch the lock down bar receiver when the play field was down causing my problem.

This can happen when the outhole switch wireform falls into the wrong position in the outhole switch stack. The stack has a fish paper to isolate the wireform from the switch contact leaf. Otherwise when the ball is sitting on the outhole switch it grounds the switch through the lockdown bar receiver causing abnormal behavior.
IMG_0003a.jpgIMG_0003a.jpg

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