(Topic ID: 66114)
Linked Games
Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1981-
Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1984
-
Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition
Bally, 1982
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Mulvane, KS
I will try messing with the one blue pot that's left and also the red button.
By the way I do have the new capacitor kit for the sound board on the way. I figured it was way overdue for one anyway. I'll try to see if I can get a new pot in on the same order.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Replace both posts. Double check the volume pot at coin door and the connection there also. Also count how many flashes you get on the sound board's led upon powering up.
Sounds good. Will report back with results later tonight. Thanks for the help. I'm still pretty green with Bally machines. I've spent most of my time on System 11 Williams.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Sounds good. Will report back with results later tonight. Thanks for the help. I'm still pretty green with Bally machines. I've spent most of my time on System 11 Williams.
Well after messing with the sound and speech pots I now have speech. But still no sounds. Checked the manual, setting 18 is set to 03 which is most all scoring has noise with background sound. The red button made him say all the sayings. But no other noises. Wondering if maybe there is an alltek setting off with the dipswitches.
I definitely have a 24pin plug in the head that needs repinned ASAP. It is dark brown and gets very hot.
15815729575971455706787217453172 (resized).jpg 1 month later
Tackled the squawk and talk board tonight. Put all new capacitors and sound pots into it.
Shout out to toddsvec at BigDaddy for providing the caps! Process went very smoothly and I'm happy with the results.
Next up is the 25 pin connector J3 on the solenoid driver board. Would someone mind taking a decent picture of theirs so I can see all the wire colors? Someone did a hackjob on this one.
Thanks.
received_844996262645907 (resized).jpegreceived_149607463069160 (resized).jpegSmartSelect_20200329-231844_Chrome (resized).jpg
Quoted from phillyfan64:Nice job. Can I send you mine? Just kidding. I ordered the same kit but I haven’t attempted it yet. Board work is not my strong suit.
Hope this helps. It’s not great. I think somebody redid mine. There’s a jumper that’s hard to see.[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks pretty similar to mine. Glad it's not as hacked as I first thought.
I may do your board for you. PM me. I kind of enjoy board work. Its relaxing.
1 month later
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Personally, I'd drill that one through and use a tnut and machined post in it's place. The reason it is all mangled is they factory used a wood screw post and that one gets hit alot. Gotta remove the drop bank below to do the mod.
I planned to re-drill the hole and T nut the bottom side. Just wanted to see what people used to fill the void.
Alas, I decided to go with 2 part epoxy and I'll sand it flush when it cures before re-drilling.
Thanks,
received_558647451726706 (resized).jpeg 1 month later
Went in head over heels when I started this EBD hardtop for my friend. Got stuck on some insert replacements, frustrated while trying to fill unnecessary holes, then took a while trying to get the glass smooth wet sanding done on the inserts. I've finally moved on past the inserts and now I'm midway through the shooter lane. Picked up some Durham's to fill a small gouge in the shooter lane. Hopefully I get the results I'm expecting out of this. Anyone ever used Durham's and have a good experience? It's been recommended from repair help groups so I'm just going to see how it goes. Then it's off to clearcoating the shooter lane before laying the Hardtop.
Wish me luck.
received_558647451726706 (resized).jpegreceived_228371625055606 (resized).jpegreceived_591598881560598 (resized).jpegreceived_695042861347430 (resized).jpegQuoted from DocGar:I'm in need of a couple (2) OEM T-nuts. Anyone have a stash ?
Multiple sizes. Need to know which. I believe I have 6/32 and 8/32. Let me know.
4 months later
Quoted from phillyfan64:I’ve run into an alignment issue with the upper plastics. What do I do with this? Enlarge the holes? These appear to be repros but they’re older. I don’t know who made them.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Hopefully the repro ones I'm doing right now arent too far off from the original alignment holes, but I'm following anyway. Any chance you chould take a photo of all of your plastics with bells phillyfan64 ?
I removed all the bells and didnt take good note of where the big/small bells went.
Thanks.
Quoted from Lovef2k:The small bell stands only go on the 2 large upper right and upper left plastics.
Before installing bell stands, verify alignment of upper plastics holes versus lower plastic by stacking. Pay particular attention to the far right clear plastic and the clear plastic to the left of the inline drop targets. They're the ones that I see off mostly.
If you do need to make any adjustments on holes, make sure to only do this on the clear plastic. You may need to enlarge a hole slightly or egg one out a little to make the 2 holes match. The bell stand will hide it if the hole is off and the upper bell will cover the top of it. FWIW any holes will only be off about a 32nd of an inch or so.
Ultimately you want the upper and lower bell stands to line up so that your screws go straight down and not on an angle. If this is a new pf it will be easy just to predrill a new hole for screw if it doesn't line up with the predrilled dimple.
If you're working on a used pf, you want to verify the upper plastic mounting holes match your pf first. If off just a little, say 1/ 16 inch you should be ok. Any more than that then you will end up flexing the plastics and will look warped after install and also add tension to the plastics causing cracks later on.
Thanks guys. I'm assuming the Soldering Iron technique is still the best method of reinserting the bells onto the new plastics?
Ive just finished running the bells through the tumbler so they're shiny and new. Check out the White Pops my wife is helping me make! Totally beats the orange IMO.
received_400052831132968 (resized).jpegAnyone have advice as towards where the tall and short star posts go? I'm weeding my way through pictures slowly figuring out some.
Glad I ordered new. I dont even know if an ultrasonic cleaner could've saved the old ones.
Quoted from vec-tor:"Anyone have advice as towards where the tall and short star posts go? "
Here... I know, it's crude.
[quoted image]
Man I love the people in this hobby! Nice drawing! We've all had something similar!
2 weeks later
Can someone post a decent picture of the left pop bumper switch wiring? The pop lights are working correctly but switch #38 is stuck on even if I isolate the switch contacts. May have goofed the wiring when I resoldered them.
Here is a pic for fresh eyes to maybe notice anything obviously not right. The blue wire coming in is actually the double green just consolidated in a solder sleeve to make my life easier.
1606335234646623358232237805028 (resized).jpg16063353846606455910441685245802 (resized).jpgQuoted from vec-tor:Switch for left pop bumper is White-Brown... you have Brown-White,
which is the right pop bumper.
DOH!!!!
Thanks for the help!!
All switches working great now except for the pop bumpers. They work fine but need tuning. Problem is I cant tighten the switch stacks because they mount directly into the lower part of the plastic body and the threaded holes are also plastic and are stripped out. Is there any work around for this? Or is buying new lower bodies the solution? Obviously I need new spoons too. Was just trying to get it playing for now.
received_671475070219896 (resized).jpegQuoted from Lovef2k:I see in post 3558 that somebody used wood screws to the secure the switched but in post 3562 the correct screws are installed. I would bet $ that the metal plates are still under the bumper bases. IIRC the thread for the switch screws is 4-40 machine screw about 1.125 inches long.
I would bet $ that if the "plate" is about .25" x .50" that my shop vac ate one of them when I was vacuuming the cabinet. Wasnt quite sure what it was at the time but it was about the right size. I'll see if I can fish it out with a magnet.
2 weeks later
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