(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

6 years ago

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  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by jj44114
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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)

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#1115 2 years ago

O'Boy. O.K. One can activate the top flipper ( checking it) by manually lifting
the bottom flipper and pressing the cabinet button.
1) Nothing happens?
a: check the wiring from top flipper to bottom flipper.
b: check primary voltage "brown wires" for continuity.
c: temp short contacts on the outside "make" E.O.S. switch.
d: temp short contacts on top flipper E.O.S.
e: check the wiring on top flipper coil ( are they connected to the right lugs?)
f: check the soldering, is it solid, cold, Etc, Etc, Etc.
g: post a mini video of your problem.
h: post sharp clear pictures of your problem area.
i: if all fails, call a good tech.

#1122 2 years ago

Reflow your solder!!!! it is crap! you need a good contact!
Your iron is not hot enough. The Black-White needs resolder.
The Brown primary needs resolder. You need good solid soldered
on wires to the lugs.

3 weeks later
#1157 2 years ago

The head can come off.
1) remove ground strap: Philips screwdriver
2) remove wiring from the connectors: follow the center harnesses.
3) remove one of the backbox's female hinges while the backbox is down
--- over the bottom cabinet.
4) carefully slide the backbox off the other side hinge.
5) tada!

#1166 2 years ago
Quoted from emkay:

Did any of these have factory Mylar?

The Thumper bumpers have mylars installed, from day one factory,
and the game came with two sling shot half circular mylars and
one playfield mylar that you had the option of installing or not.

3 weeks later
#1180 2 years ago
Quoted from shutyertrap:

I've provided a bunch of pics since I know how much people like looking at 'em.

That is one of the playfield swaps I did back in the 1980's.
I'm glad that the flipper mechs have held up after all
of this years.

#1193 2 years ago
Quoted from Humph:

don't know where this particular clear plastic goes.

Inline 2X,3X,4X,5X, right side next to the top left pop bumper.

1 week later
#1203 2 years ago
Quoted from shutyertrap:

Anyone else have this issue? Drop targets 3,4, and 5 often get stuck too high, which if struck by a pinball can lead to breaking (found that out the hard way).

You might have to add a wire rod across the bank,
in order to prevent the hyperextension of the reset

1 week later
#1238 2 years ago

On your Eightball Deluxe, I made the lamp sockets service
-- friendly by having the common braid on the backside of
-- each lamp socket all you need is a 1/4 socket wrench
-- and unscrew the lamp socket in order to change the bulb.
-- The idea was to prevent the dreaded yank-back that many
-- operators do when changing the lamp socket, thus saving
-- the delicate spot welds that are used to fasten the assembly.

3 weeks later
#1259 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

or if some sort of grip can be applied to the metal shelf that holds the target up.

Try a dab of contact cement.

#1261 2 years ago

I always make a chart when I take a switch stack apart.

#1268 2 years ago

As far as the Eight Ball Deluxe playfield goes, I hope this time they use the right color
scheme; cream instead of white.

#1271 2 years ago
Quoted from Chuckwebster:

I got word my playfield is ready to ship today. Looks like im gonna be busy swapping playfields soon

I hope you could post a picture of it when it comes in.
I hope it is color corrected.

#1287 2 years ago
Quoted from kursiv:

A printing tech question. Did EBD playfields have some colors printed as process color with halftone screen pattern clearly visible?

Only on Illinois Pinball Playfields did they have a color swatch
printed on the bottom outhole part of the playfield.
Original Bally's on the other hand, did not.
"halftone screen pattern" was used for shades on
some of the balls in order to get purple, etc, etc,etc.

#1292 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

My 1984 has neither the creme white nor the pure white that is matter of debate here. This playfield is all original and those areas under debate have no color, just bare wood.

Where does this take the discussion?

Were all originals bare wood and the lacqeur yellowing over time lead IPB to believe it was creme white? Did CPR take it one step further and add their take that it's pure white? Did midway attempt to cut costs eliminate all color there?

The round circles where the stand-up switches are is the bare wood. The off white
is the creme color around the rest of the playfield under the plastic.

#1294 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Bare wood. It is definitely not white nor creme white. Here is closer look:

From your picture...
1) wood = where the switch is.
2) base color creme white/white.
3) process green.
4) key line = black.
5) clear coat = all the cracking from heat and wood shrinkage/expansion.
Advertising Posters did a lot of the colors for the game industries back in Chicago.
They did a lot of custom colors that people today do not want to match up.

1 week later
#1350 2 years ago
Quoted from Chuckwebster:

What size posts are they supposed to be ? 1 1/16 or 1 3/16ths? I don't trust my game has the original posts in it to measure from.

Eight Ball Deluxe has a mix of short and tall posts.

2 weeks later
#1369 2 years ago

If you are handy, and if you have a local plastic supply shop, you could fabricate
that part by copying it upside down on new raw material and hand cutout to the
shape you need. The end piece that is missing is cupped. Or, take masking tape
and copy the top part of the plastic and then transferring it to the raw plastic material and cut out. I use cereal box chipboard material has a pattern in order to get the right shape and test fit before transferring it onto the plastic raw material.

1 week later
#1391 2 years ago

and remember if the outhole coil kicks and the ball does not come out right away,
it could be the lamp bridge.

1 week later
#1413 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I wanted a wood look instead of the black.

I did that back in 1986. I used oak and Minwax. I hope you like the look.

#1434 2 years ago

If the out hole is wired correctly and the coil does not fire but the
top drop target does, then change the lamp bridge.

#1437 2 years ago

YES, the lamp bridge!!!!
Put the game in lamp test and listen to the solenoid expander relay.
Does it chatter??????? or does it click snappy???.

#1439 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

what is the bridge?

Does one not know what a bridge rectifier is?
Then one needs to take electronic curriculum.

#1441 2 years ago


#1448 2 years ago

I have redone the wire harness around the top left flipper.

#1450 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

My concern is the length of wire. Did you have to add any in order to install the board connectors?

For the top flipper area, I might have added or cut some new wire for the GI.
It was done along time ago. But for your case, you might have to add a lamp
wire extension or two here and there. I do not know, the PC boards for
the Eight Ball Deluxe was not available at the time I did mine.

#1470 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I guess it's a matter of opinion. You're not changing the physical aspect of the game by changing roms, you can always switch back.


#1472 2 years ago
Quoted from Mageek:

Perhaps the picture I posted above needs explanation.

For me, no, I thought it was a great idea. Good for pinball shows and what not.

#1475 2 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

In my home environment though I leave all the coin mechs fully functional exactly as they were intended. In other words, there is no free play. You must insert the quarter to play. That's what makes game play the most fun for me since that's the way I was playing these machines when they were brand-new.


1 week later
#1480 2 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

does anybody here happen to know what screws are needed to hold the switch stack to the bumper body?

#5-40, 1 1/8" long, round Philips head. Back oxide. x 2
--- plus base plate.

1 week later
#1502 2 years ago

My oh my, that looks really good; for a repo.
Way better than the Bally Playboy; from what you have shown.
Good luck with the restoration on the Eight Ball Deluxe.

1 month later
#1522 2 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

For God's sake. Save yourself a lot of pain & suffering & re-pin the whole thing.
Been there, done that.

Best advise I EVER got on SS Bally pin repair.


1 month later
#1529 2 years ago

Note: resolve the mini post to the inline drop targets first.
If you are using the original style post with small rubber bumper,
I suggest you make it a #8-32 metal post that goes through the playfield and is mounted with a T-nut that is countersunk on the bottom side that can clear the inline drop target frame.
Or, you can go with a size larger and use the bumper post 0360-00733-00XF with an R414 rubber ring that can help protect the plastic side rails.
Also, again, use a T-nut to fasten under the playfield that is also countersunk.
The wood screw mini post that Bally used is a cheap copout on the management production side.
It created a weak link to the playfield and caused early playfield deterioration in that particular area.

#1531 2 years ago

Yup! I see you have recut clear plastics. OEMs where a little wider and had rounded corners.

#1533 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

I'll be doing play field harnesses for anyone who is interested.

On EBD, I rerouted the top left wire harness to go around the left flipper assembly from the back
rather than the front in order to clear the path of the plunger assembly.

#1547 2 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

It seems they used different size screws and some of them are too short.

What is the length? Some round head screws are short and some are long.
It all depends on where they are to be mounted.
P.S. You are missing a steel post pin that goes in between the two plastic posts
and the two plastic posts are to have 5/16" rubber rings on them.

2 weeks later
#1563 2 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

is it factory that the blade switches under the rollovers arenĀ“t protected with fishpaper? Or is that just missing on my EBD?

Bally did not use fish-paper on their leaf switches/blade switches

#1565 2 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

I don't really have the correct equipment to make my own.
Any help much appreciated.

Get a Dremel set. Find a local plastic supplier in your area and get a plastic cutting knife.
You can also use tin snips to cut the plastic into a rough shape.
Finally, get a drill with deferent bits. I hope this helps.
Note: if you got the money to burn you can have the plastics laser cut and or old school,
pay to have steel rule dies made and have the plastics press cut.

#1571 2 years ago

Bleed over from vibrating switch contacts? Does the game playfield pass the thump test?

#1578 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

This is a new CPR playfield and I've got the drop targets flush with the playfield. I also have the entire mech mounted with the targets as close to the front of the playfield as possible.

Bally, on later revisions of their drop targets, added a metal "L" bracket in order to feel in the space between the drop targets.
Midway/Bally #0390-00100-0000 ; #0390-00100-00XF, BRACKET: FILLER ( 6 REQ'D.)

#1581 2 years ago

Bally/Midway listed the part# two different ways on two deferent pages just giving the part #'s
0.039 thick metal, 1/4" wide, 1 13/16" long (inside), 5/8" top (inside)
#5 holes (2 req'd)3/8" spaced: center too center.
The top center hole is approximately 17/32" from the bottom edge.
The bottom center hole is approximately 5/32" from the bottom edge.
Reference: Bally's Kings of Steel or Beat the Clock for part shape.

#1584 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

can they be fitted on an older mech like on EBD?

Yes! The part was made for Bally drop target assemblies. You should have bought some back in 1984
when they were available.

1 month later
#1625 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

This is the best I can do. Both diode bands on on the left.

WTF. What are you doing??? Brown and Orange wire should be soldered on the CENTER LUG.

#1641 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

The front one is the one in series, but only if one of the wires gets connected to the center lug. I had my wires connected on the left and right, thereby excluding the series diode.


#1645 2 years ago
Quoted from TIB:

mine have these aftermarket rings which I think look even better

They do look good. I wish the manufacture would bring back the OEM style of caps.
The frosted inside and not the starburst.

#1647 2 years ago


1 week later
#1676 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

the clear flipper return lane and the upper right 8 ball inner clear. I have 3 sets and none are correct. What have you guys done to get around this?

I used the OEM as a template and made my own.

#1679 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I have never remade any plastics yet, but I think it will be inevitable at some point. How did you cut them? What material?

I use tin snips to ruff in the shape, then use a Dremel tool to finish along with sandpaper.

#1684 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I think there was a guy that did them correctly, that was a guy named Alan. Forget the last name.

Could it be Alan Meyers? in LA of Pinball Express?
He did a lot of repo. stuff and the guys that had the licensing shut him down.

#1692 1 year ago

The crimp tool is custom made. One side fits inside the bell housing that has a hole in it.
the other is a "male" that fits down the hole with a beveled brim that flairs the top of the metal
bell shape onto the plastic. It is the same principal tool that is used to make the bayonet lamp sockets.

1 month later
#1786 1 year ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Can someone take a picture of there board settings I can't get my game to give an extra ball.

Did you try function #16? 03 or 02?

2 months later
#1845 1 year ago
Quoted from brody:

EOS switch for the upper flipper?

Bally #ASW-A20-34

1 week later
#1857 1 year ago

Note: a Pinsider did make replacement posts.
but who?? I do not know but I did see an add for them.

1 month later
#1864 1 year ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

The posts are nickel plated and are often pitted but can usually be cleaned up to some extent unless they are too far gone.

I had an EM game that needed the same type of posts and had a machinist
make them out of aluminum... The owner never knew.

3 months later
#1912 1 year ago
Quoted from Patentlaw:

Pop bumper caps keep coming off. The tabs keep breaking. As you know, the EBD pop bumper tops are hard to find and cost a ton compared to others. Anyone else have this issue and have a solution?

Note: EBD OEM caps where frosted tops... Later productions where done with a starburst pattern.
---- Then, starburst with through holes...Also, a service bulletin to add a plastic snap-rings to the
---- collars to keep the caps from turning...
---- Nothing really worked, until Strange Science came into production.
---- To fix EBD caps, you need to drill or buy new style thumper bumper bodies
---- with the two small holes were the ring and rod glides are.
---- Two small screws 5/40 for each cap.
---- Drill two small holes through top of each cap and add the screws to mount
---- through the caps and into the top of the small holes in the thump bumper bodies.
---- Yes, it is a pain to align the holes for the screws.
---- Each EBD caps are aligned in a different position... so you have to go through
---- the top of each cap... Also, Black screws disappear against the black stampings.

4 months later
#2051 11 months ago

1) start game ... remove J3 cabinet switch from the equation...
a; do drop target test as in video.
b; same D/T lamp switch effect or different?
- c; if the same... problem with switches on playfield.
--d; if different, ( normal lamp effect...4th target reads...) then problem with cabinet/coin door.

#2052 11 months ago

Note: I think the 4th D/T switch is to closes...

#2068 11 months ago

I see hacked wiring.

#2086 10 months ago

Note: On Bally Aux lamp boards it is best to add more ground wires to the board...
The one ground wire from factory is a bad design flaw.

#2089 10 months ago
Quoted from Calipindave:

What did you guys do to add more ground....?

Back in the day I used green braided wire and some solder lugs and add them to the Aux lamp board
bracket and screwed the other end into the main back box ground shield.
1) I also tied all the lamp ground traces on the Main lamp board and rewired the wire
-- harness with extra wires that went to the empty ground connectors from the
-- Main lamp board to the Aux lamp board.
Note: The Main lamp board has empty trace pads that I would solder together
-- in order to have available more grounding options.
-- Plus I would add a second bridge rectifier to the bottom power supply and have heavy
-- jumper wires that would be soldered to the lamp bridge rectifier.
-- ( it made the games hold up when out on rout ).

#2101 10 months ago

Note: The old #555 staple lamp sockets have a bent edges that leave the housing
-- slightly counter sunk. The new #44 bayonet socket does not have the staple legs
-- bent... in order to counter sink the light bulb. So the L.E.D. now stick to high up.

#2104 10 months ago

madmax541 fantastic.

2 months later
#2222 8 months ago
Quoted from Barkz:

Also now on power up that solenoid expander is rattling - it stops once the start up cycle is done

If you put the game in lamp test listen to the solenoid expander relay...
If the relay is "buzzing/chattering" then change the lamp bridge.
If the relay is "clicking" then something else is wrong.

#2233 8 months ago
Quoted from Barkz:

I replaced F1 20a and restarted with the old light board in and the fuse blew again.

Ugh!! Change the bridge BR1.
If one can not change the BR1 bridge, then one should buy a
replacement power supply bridge board.
1) Unplug lamp board connectors ( Main and AUX.)
2) Unplug playfield power connector J1 from power board... just to be sure.
3) Use an Ohm meter and test the BR1 bridge... If you do not have a test meter...
4) Unplug J3, J4, J2, along with J1. all are output connectors, leave J5 and J6 plugged in.
5) Use a good sacrificial 20 AMP fuse and replace F1.
6) Does the fuse blow?
-- Answer: No... Then a short some where.....
---------- Yes... Bad BR1...change BR1. If one cannot change BR1 then one should buy a replacement board.

#2240 8 months ago
Quoted from Barkz:

Yeah I do not have the skills for that lol...can someone please confirm this is what I should buy:


#2243 8 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

You don't need to go that far with the TP13 wire from the Alltek. You just need to get to a lamp control line and there's one much closer to the Alltek board. Here's a picture of mine (blue wire) - I'm alligator clipping to the control lamp wire under the D-E-L-U-X-E lights. The wire is long - I used it to test/confirm everything was working right when I put in the Alltek board last year, and I haven't gotten around to embedding it in the wire harness yet.
And before anyone admonishes me for the original battery on my EBD MPU, I bought a few Weebly NVRAM chips last month and will be updating it this weekend or next!
[quoted image]

#2249 8 months ago
Quoted from alimerick:

Are EBD 81 replacement wiring harnesses available? Specifically display harness. This harness is chewed up and covered with electrical tape in the large bundle. Looks like it has been pinched in back box door over time. Can go through and patch am sure but would rather replace. Turned on and displays are missing digits etc. moving the harness in the giant electrical tape bundle fixes this.

The wiring harness has electrical tape at the bend point... That is factory.
Need to show a picture...

3 months later
#2356 4 months ago
Quoted from iluvak9:

Seems strange that a coil that was working would all of a sudden be shorted when the game is only in lamp test mode and has been in lamp test mode for a minute or so and there is no other activity that is going on (not working on game, not moving game at all, just game running in lamp test mode).

That is the joy of old solid state games. It's always something...
As I always say:
Semiconductors, sometimes they conduct, sometimes they don't.

3 months later
#2443 41 days ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

I have a problem with my #8 target under the plastic on the top right of the playfield. It sometimes falls without being hit probably from the vibration the bumpers are causing. Is that a known issue?
When I got the pin the target had this thin green rubberband attached to the target. I thought this was an ugly and unnecessary hack, maybe only there because the spring was worn out. But even with a brand new spring the target keeps falling without being hit.
[quoted image]

You might have to realign the D/T assembly to the playfield.
I have found that the single D/T does not completely reset on the metal frame.
( the playfield edge pushes the target slightly back )
Thus, it drops from the vibration that is going on from all the ball hits.

1 month later
#2555 2 days ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

GI sockets seem to be white also.

I think it was an exchanged playfield...
Sometimes, in repair shops back in the day you would have
up to three or more EBD that needed service... people would
swap ( whole playfields ) here and there... in order to get one or two out of the shop
Sometimes, a game would come in with a heavily vandalized cabinet but the playfield
is still good... You end up swapping this for that etc,etc,etc.
I had to do three High Speeds... When done, one "A" game, one "B" game (went to the auction)
and one leftover junk parts ( cabinet went into the trash ).

#2564 20 hours ago

Back in the day when I was doing multiple EBD playfield transfers, I would
redo the main power buss to the lamp sockets so as you only needed
to use a hex head driver. You just unscrewed the screw that held the lamp socket
in place... One then had an easy access to the #555 lamp with out having
to bend the lamp socket back and forth.

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