(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome

By mima

10 years ago


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#6651 60 days ago

I don't know on cost, I actually thought after shipping they were less but I didn't really look, you may be right... I agree, really nice.

Quoted from pinballinreno:I think they are a little more expensive.
Id like to see their color palette.
Stumblor has done a great job on the TAF.
Im putting one in my IJ resto soon.

#6652 58 days ago
Quoted from Ant-H:

Yeah I agree that they both look good, but on a TAF, Daveys XL screen looks the best. I also used a separate power supply to avoid any potential issues. If I remember rightly the instructions actually recommend to use one.
I think it really depends on who makes the colour files for the pin2dmd screen. I’m currently restoring 3 FTs, 2 of which have the XL screen and they look great. Same as CFTBL.
But I have a mate who has one in his WH20 and the colour is nowhere near as good imo

Aren't these screens just Pin2DMD?

https://stumblorpinball.com/products/hd-pin2dmd?_pos=1&_psq=addams&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=39459919921226

In looking at the link, have they increased the size of the DMD 'hole'? The website does not provide a lot of details 'selling' this upgrade.

It seems like a high price to pay when a Pin2DMD can be made for $150 - $200. If the head DMD area has been modified, that might be something different. Their speakers seem to be mid-range only. When using the original TAF sound card, that might be a good thing because of the distortion.

I like to do my own speakers and have already cut out the speaker hole on the right to put two mid / high speakers in there for TAF. But I took out the PinSound card because I have yet to hear an acceptable TAF sound upgrade.

BTW, I did a Pin2DMD for WH2O and am happy with it. And it fit in the standard DMD 'hole'. I did not need a separate power supply but did not do speaker lights - which are not to my taste.

#6653 58 days ago

The pin2dmd XL is larger, and stumblor 's include speaker panels as well.... just was doing some research on this.

I'm leaning towards getting pin2dmd in general because ColorDMD won't let you modify the color files to include new cues. I have colordmd in almost all my dmd games, but I also have modified text/graphics in some of those games and for the LCD version it shows those unknown screens/text as white, which is "ok" (would be nice if it were colorized....) but the LED one defaults back to red, which looks terrible.

I'll probably end up doing a hybrid where I'll build a couple and buy a couple.... I'm not sure how the 'licensing' aspect is working on this ?open-source/formerly open-source project? I know when you buy them complete from people they've got the license unlocked. I don't know the backstory of what happened with it, I'd prefer fully open-sourced stuff, but as long as there's a clear path for A,B,C where you know where to get the license key from and the files I'm ok with that too (that's what I'm really researching, and hopefully I can play around with the colorization tools before ordering any hardware just to see how involved it is.)

I've read a couple people that have had issues with the hardware as well freezing up/resetting/getting stuck - not sure about that path, either. Buying from a known reseller with a warranty would be the preference, or at least someone to get tech help from.

I don't think I'll get the XL screen for every game just a couple - probably monster bash for sure and possibly CFTBL. On the fence about the other games.

#6654 58 days ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

Aren't these screens just Pin2DMD?
https://stumblorpinball.com/products/hd-pin2dmd?_pos=1&_psq=addams&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=39459919921226
In looking at the link, have they increased the size of the DMD 'hole'? The website does not provide a lot of details 'selling' this upgrade.
It seems like a high price to pay when a Pin2DMD can be made for $150 - $200. If the head DMD area has been modified, that might be something different. Their speakers seem to be mid-range only. When using the original TAF sound card, that might be a good thing because of the distortion.
I like to do my own speakers and have already cut out the speaker hole on the right to put two mid / high speakers in there for TAF. But I took out the PinSound card because I have yet to hear an acceptable TAF sound upgrade.
BTW, I did a Pin2DMD for WH2O and am happy with it. And it fit in the standard DMD 'hole'. I did not need a separate power supply but did not do speaker lights - which are not to my taste.

Yes they are 2 x Pin2dmd screens. The kit come ms with a new speaker panel in order to accept the XL screen, new artwork, speaker panel lamp board (for TAF) and speakers. The speaker lights are optional I believe.

I installed PinSound in my TAF but like you, am not really keen on the remixed music options for the game.
I left it in though as I wanted to use the PinSound shaker motor along with a smoke machine which activates during certain mods as well as the multi ball.

#6655 58 days ago
Quoted from Ant-H:

Yes they are 2 x Pin2dmd screens. The kit come ms with a new speaker panel in order to accept the XL screen, new artwork, speaker panel lamp board (for TAF) and speakers. The speaker lights are optional I believe.
I installed PinSound in my TAF but like you, am not really keen on the remixed music options for the game.
I left it in though as I wanted to use the PinSound shaker motor along with a smoke machine which activates during certain mods as well as the multi ball.

When I get a little time after I complete my Resto, Im going to revisit the original sounds and clean them up.

At the same time, I plan to complete the Slamtilt 20th anniversary ochestration and post it.

I have had great success in removing the scratchy sounds to make them cleaner.

I already posted a good boot.wav, more to come as time permits.

#6656 58 days ago
Quoted from Ant-H:

…I wanted to use the PinSound shaker motor along with a smoke machine which activates during certain mods as well as the multi ball.

Can’t believe you just casually dropped that here without some video/pictures of the smoke machine!?! Did you do this yet? I would love to see it in action. Love it when people do over the top stuff like this.

#6657 58 days ago
Quoted from Ant-H:

I restored 2 TAFs side by side last year. One using a colour DMD (led) and the other a Stumblor XL screen.
IMO for TAF, I prefer the XL screen as it seems to have a much broader colour palette when compared next to the colour dmd.
Theres a comparison video on YouTube on where that shows them side by side.

Buts heres a screen shot I grabbed. Unfortunately it’s not the best but it’s the only one I have with them side by side with both screens in view.[quoted image]

Quoted from Ant-H:

I restored 2 TAFs side by side last year. One using a colour DMD (led) and the other a Stumblor XL screen.
IMO for TAF, I prefer the XL screen as it seems to have a much broader colour palette when compared next to the colour dmd.
Theres a comparison video on YouTube on where that shows them side by side.

Buts heres a screen shot I grabbed. Unfortunately it’s not the best but it’s the only one I have with them side by side with both screens in view.[quoted image]

Yes the video is a better perception of the size difference.
Is that black or black chrome.
Also the ramps look chromed very nicely done.

#6658 57 days ago

I'm always amazed at the amount of people who come in and shit on things that are ready made, plug in and go because they can be made DIY close to as good for a little less. ya man...you can do it, a bunch of ways, and it'll be close...shit maybe better in some cases what do I know right? except this is ready to go drop in I don't need to make a speaker panel, I don't need to spend my time building pin2dmd units or even ordering them in from AU or someplace else, I can just buy it and it shows up and works. Something to be said for that if your time is worth anything at all.

#6659 57 days ago
Quoted from Jeff1960:

Yes the video is a better perception of the size difference.
Is that black or black chrome.
Also the ramps look chromed very nicely done.

Thanks. The TAF on the left was fully chromed and I polished the centre ramp and the one on the right, everything was powder coated in gloss black including the ramp/wire form.
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#6660 57 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Can’t believe you just casually dropped that here without some video/pictures of the smoke machine!?! Did you do this yet? I would love to see it in action. Love it when people do over the top stuff like this.

Yeah I finished both TAF’s around this time last year.
I was taking them to the UK Pinfest show so I want to try something different with them, and thought smoke machines and integrated PinStadiums into the cabinet would look cool. Ended up winning best in show for the black one.

It took some messing about and experimenting with different smoke fluid and where to place the smoke machine but it worked out well in the end.

When I first tried it out in game, I used the wrong fluid and set it to a 10 second blast. I soon learnt that wasn’t the right thing to do as my entire workshop filled with smoke and didn’t dissipate for ages
IMG_4887 (resized).jpegIMG_4887 (resized).jpeg

In the end I fixed them directly under the cabs but had to use some heat reflective plates to stop the heat they generate transferring in the cabinet.
IMG_4856 (resized).jpegIMG_4856 (resized).jpeg
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I also used an extra quick dissipating fluid and 3 second blast on multi ball and 3 x 3 second blast during séance mode. There is another mode it’s set to come on with but I can remember which.

You should be able to see the smoke in action during game play in Gonzo’s YouTube video I added a few posts back, but here’s a couple I did whilst testing them out on both games.

#6661 57 days ago
Quoted from Ant-H:

Yeah I finished both TAF’s around this time last year.
I was taking them to the UK Pinfest show so I want to try something different with them, and thought smoke machines and integrated PinStadiums into the cabinet would look cool. Ended up winning best in show for the black one.
It took some messing about and experimenting with different smoke fluid and where to place the smoke machine but it worked out well in the end.
When I first tried it out in game, I used the wrong fluid and set it to a 10 second blast. I soon learnt that wasn’t the right thing to do as my entire workshop filled with smoke and didn’t dissipate for ages
[quoted image]
In the end I fixed them directly under the cabs but had to use some heat reflective plates to stop the heat they generate transferring in the cabinet.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I also used an extra quick dissipating fluid and 3 second blast on multi ball and 3 x 3 second blast during séance mode. There is another mode it’s set to come on with but I can remember which.
You should be able to see the smoke in action during game play in Gonzo’s YouTube video I added a few posts back, but here’s a couple I did whilst testing them out on both games.

That’s flat out awesome How did you wire that up to trigger at specific events in the game?

#6662 57 days ago
Quoted from Ant-H:

Yes they are 2 x Pin2dmd screens. The kit come ms with a new speaker panel in order to accept the XL screen, new artwork, speaker panel lamp board (for TAF) and speakers. The speaker lights are optional I believe.
I installed PinSound in my TAF but like you, am not really keen on the remixed music options for the game.
I left it in though as I wanted to use the PinSound shaker motor along with a smoke machine which activates during certain mods as well as the multi ball.

I had previously installed the PinShakers option for TAF. It works well as long as one does not go overboard on turning on solenoids / flashers to activate the shaker. I think I have the cloud lamps and one of the lightening bolts set to turn on the shaker motor.

I have the PinSound and shaker on Tommy and it is great.

It would be nice to have the XL larger display, but not at $400.

I have been working on upgrading the PinSound for TAF for the last 6 months. It is tedious as all heck.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

When I get a little time after I complete my Resto, Im going to revisit the original sounds and clean them up.
At the same time, I plan to complete the Slamtilt 20th anniversary ochestration and post it.
I have had great success in removing the scratchy sounds to make them cleaner.
I already posted a good boot.wav, more to come as time permits.

I have tried to 'clean up' the original sounds using Audacity and its plugins. There just has not been anything I can do. I spent some time with the user groups for Audacity and they said no luck. If you come up with another solution, please let me know.

I am going through the SlamTilt sounds now. There are 305 'Music' files and 342 'Sounds'. They don't seem to match up with the files in PinSound at all. All of them seem to be harvested from the movies, maybe just the first flic, and I had already processed much of that movie so there is a lot less new to me than I had hoped.

pinballinrino, if you want to work together on this, let me know. I am 'all the way up to' Music 13 - yippee! [sarcasm]. I just converted Music 13 to a 40 second clip to match 'quick_multiball'. No reason for us to duplicate this effort.

#6663 57 days ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

I have tried to 'clean up' the original sounds using Audacity and its plugins. There just has not been anything I can do.

Run the noisy files thru this a couple times and then add gain in audacity, minus 3 gain seems to work well enough for me:

https://vocalremover.org/

#6664 55 days ago
Quoted from Ant-H:

3 x 3 second blast during séance mode.

Ok when I saw the pictures with it mounted below machine I thought-what the hell is he doing? Then I watched the video of it in action-I gotta say that is pretty unique and definitely fits the moment.

I was playing Adams the other day and the game going off during Power & Seance mode is really spectacular and with an internal Flipper Fidelity sub-it really goes off. Now add in some custom fog and you may have the best over the top pinball experience in all of pinball

#6665 55 days ago

I am looking to see if an OEM Bally shaker will work in TAF. I'm not sure if it was designed with one in mind.

#6666 55 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

I am looking to see if an OEM Bally shaker will work in TAF. I'm not sure if it was designed with one in mind.

There is no code in TAF to activate a shaker. Aftermarket triggering (like a pinsound) only.

#6667 55 days ago

Shucks! Thank you

#6668 55 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

I am looking to see if an OEM Bally shaker will work in TAF. I'm not sure if it was designed with one in mind.

Look at the PinSound shaker kit standalone edition. Works great on a stock TAF, and no Pinsound sound board required.

https://www.pinsound.org/motion-control-shaker

#6669 53 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

There is no code in TAF to activate a shaker

I will say an internal Flipper Fidelity sub set to the right settings does the job of the shaker. I usually do not care for internal subs because of vibration issues(especially glass) but I can't imagine Adams without it now.

#6670 48 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

That’s flat out awesome How did you wire that up to trigger at specific events in the game?

It’s all done via the PinSound shaker motor board. It lets you wire an external piece of kit, like a siren, light or in this case a shaker motor.
If you really wanted you could hook up a kettle you really wanted

Once it’s hooked up, you simply use the PinSound Shaker software and set it to come on when you want.

Being PinSound it’s triggered by certain sound effects in game. The software list every single sound effect in the game.
For example, for mine it will activate during multi ball when Gomez says Show time.

You also need to set how long it comes in for. You can program it to come on for whenever you want and time wise it can go from 0.1 of second and up.

#6671 48 days ago
Quoted from pinmister:

Ok when I saw the pictures with it mounted below machine I thought-what the hell is he doing? Then I watched the video of it in action-I gotta say that is pretty unique and definitely fits the moment.
I was playing Adams the other day and the game going off during Power & Seance mode is really spectacular and with an internal Flipper Fidelity sub-it really goes off. Now add in some custom fog and you may have the best over the top pinball experience in all of pinball

My initial idea was to mount the smoke machine inside the game run it through pipes to the back box so it would look like it’s smoking during multi ball.

The problem was gets really hot plus by the time the smoke made its way up the pipe, it had cooled down and turned back into a liquid and would just dribble out the end.

I actually think the seance mod is the best use for the smoke machine. It comes every 5 seconds for a 1 second blast. That, with the knocker the sub and the lighting is a great pinball moment/experience imo.

I’m currently restoring a BSD and am installing a smoke machine on that. The difference with this one is im using ground covering fog liquid. So instead of the smoke rising up like the TAF, this product creates a low level fog which I’ll trigger during the mist multi ball.

#6672 47 days ago
Quoted from Ant-H:

The difference with this one is im using ground covering fog liquid. So instead of the smoke rising up like the TAF, this product creates a low level fog which I’ll trigger during the mist multi ball.

Cool effect but I can't help but think about contamination and safety issues. Glycol is not a safe substance and not good to breath in and may also contaminate machine with coatings. If it is for a special one night event like Halloween and in a well ventilated area-I would say maybe but I would not risk it otherwise. If I were to do it-I would not attach the fog machine to the underside of pinball-perhaps make a special box that sits on the ground below the machine?

#6673 47 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Run the noisy files thru this a couple times and then add gain in audacity, minus 3 gain seems to work well enough for me:
https://vocalremover.org/

I played around with one of the original voice files: "Get the Extra Ball" without any significant improvement (to my ears).

I suspect that the only way we are going to get clean voices is to have the original uncompressed voices released (unlikely due to rights issues), get similar phrases from the movies, or have an AI imitation.

There are several phrases that are not in the movie(s) such as 'get the extra ball'.

Quoted from pinmister:

I will say an internal Flipper Fidelity sub set to the right settings does the job of the shaker. I usually do not care for internal subs because of vibration issues(especially glass) but I can't imagine Adams without it now.

When you say 'sub', is that the 8" cabinet speaker replacement? Not trying to be picky, but I would not qualify that as a subwoofer. It is a very good woofer, though.

"....includes our dedicated high-output 8" 8 Ohm cabinet woofer with integrated low-pass filter with user-selectable output levels".

#6674 47 days ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

I played around with one of the original voice files: "Get the Extra Ball" without any significant improvement (to my ears).
I suspect that the only way we are going to get clean voices is to have the original uncompressed voices released (unlikely due to rights issues), get similar phrases from the movies, or have an AI imitation.
There are several phrases that are not in the movie(s) such as 'get the extra ball'.

When you say 'sub', is that the 8" cabinet speaker replacement? Not trying to be picky, but I would not qualify that as a subwoofer. It is a very good woofer, though.
"....includes our dedicated high-output 8" 8 Ohm cabinet woofer with integrated low-pass filter with user-selectable output levels".

I worked on this for about 5 mins.

Its on my google drive but you can listen to it here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eyAuWAcC-ZsVvcv6xoTa00wxJuFOqWVy/view?usp=sharing

I think its much better.

#6675 46 days ago
Quoted from pinmister:

Cool effect but I can't help but think about contamination and safety issues. Glycol is not a safe substance and not good to breath in and may also contaminate machine with coatings. If it is for a special one night event like Halloween and in a well ventilated area-I would say maybe but I would not risk it otherwise. If I were to do it-I would not attach the fog machine to the underside of pinball-perhaps make a special box that sits on the ground below the machine?

I did look into the use of smoke when I came up with the idea just to make sure it’s safe.

Mist manufacturers that sell household smoke machines in the UK are no longer making any smoke fluid based on diethylene glycol.

The fluid I use is glycerin/water based solution which non-toxic and safe for use around people and pets etc.

Commercial smoke machines, may still use the dense mist solution that stays in air for up 30 minutes which are still used at events, in nightclubs worldwide.

The home use stuff generates a thin mist of haze, doesn't stain or leave residue, and is non-toxic, non-flammable, and unscented.

I also wanted a fluid that didn’t fill the room up so went with the extra quick dissipating fluid which goes within 5 seconds.

As for contamination to the machine for example, there are no issues at all. Heat was the only concern as they get hot, but I resolved that by installing a small heat shield in the underside.

Both the games I restored were at shows last year and were switched on for over 12 hours for 2 days and there was zero issues with the smoke/heat damaging the machines.

To be honest now, one of them is in my games rooms, I only switch the smoke on every now and then when I have people over as it’s funny to see their reaction the first time it smokes.

#6676 46 days ago
Quoted from Ant-H:

when I have people over as it’s funny to see their reaction the first time it smokes

^^^^This I would love to see and would make it all worth while. Love watching guest reactions for certain games like Adams Family Power going off, Star Wars Hyper loop, Turning on Tron with sub, NBA Basketball shots, Led Zeppelin Magic spinner, etc.

#6677 46 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I worked on this for about 5 mins.
Its on my google drive but you can listen to it here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eyAuWAcC-ZsVvcv6xoTa00wxJuFOqWVy/view?usp=sharing
I think its much better.

Thanks. It is a little better, but it is not much different from what I did which is the link below.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xqwiDowj5a9XjJC5MHcWQoQNFeMvJ4Va/view?usp=share_link

This is audio from the movie is more of the quality that I am aiming for.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bZp6J_6SwsXLxpP6BhkeQWvrp5z-PYyH/view?usp=sharing

But using the movie cuts will not replace word-for-word what is in the game. That is why I think that PinSound with TAF will not work for me unless we can come up with movie quality and the original pin call-outs (or at least close).

This was done with LOTR and it is spectacular. But the game's callouts were, for the most part, in the movies. Not so with Addams.

#6678 46 days ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

Thanks. It is a little better, but it is not much different from what I did which is the link below.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xqwiDowj5a9XjJC5MHcWQoQNFeMvJ4Va/view?usp=share_link
This is audio from the movie is more of the quality that I am aiming for.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bZp6J_6SwsXLxpP6BhkeQWvrp5z-PYyH/view?usp=sharing
But using the movie cuts will not replace word-for-word what is in the game. That is why I think that PinSound with TAF will not work for me unless we can come up with movie quality and the original pin call-outs (or at least close).
This was done with LOTR and it is spectacular. But the game's callouts were, for the most part, in the movies. Not so with Addams.

Have you done any work with the AI reproduction?

Im very interested in that.

#6679 46 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Have you done any work with the AI reproduction?
Im very interested in that.

I approached this problem as having these solutions:

1) AI voices.

2) Audio from the movie - music, effects and voices.

3) Recreating the music, perhaps converting the audio files to MIDI, then back to audio.

Each of these are incredibly time consuming.

I did some digging into the AI and quickly found that I was getting no where. That is a steep learning curve.

So I made an audio recording of the two Raul Julia movies and started collecting snippets. I have gotten about half way through the first.

I ran into this Addams 20th and thought my problems were solved, and now found that they are not.

I need to make a decision on where to go from here.

I think the 20th is a good source to get music and special effects. But I would like to re-record the original music.

And AI is the only possible solution to 'restoring' the original call-outs.

https://speechify.com/blog/best-ai-voice-generators/?landing_url=https%3A%2F%2Fspeechify.com%2Fblog%2Ffive-best-voice-cloning-tools%2F

https://www.makeuseof.com/best-ai-voice-generators/

https://voice.ai/platforms

https://fakeyou.com/

https://www.resemble.ai/pricing/

https://speechify.com/voice-cloning/?landing_url=https%3A%2F%2Fspeechify.com%2Fblog%2Fhow-use-voice-impersonator-tool%2F

https://fakeyou.com/clone

#6680 45 days ago

If you are interested in the mods I created for this fantastic pinball machine, you can purchase them by contacting me via the website www.dystopicpinball.com

Fast shipping to US, Europe and Canada

Please do not hesitate to contact me for further information or prices.
Thank you!
DP

addams (resized).pngaddams (resized).png
#6681 45 days ago
Quoted from pinmister:

^^^^This I would love to see and would make it all worth while. Love watching guest reactions for certain games like Adams Family Power going off, Star Wars Hyper loop, Turning on Tron with sub, NBA Basketball shots, Led Zeppelin Magic spinner, etc.

When I took them both to UK Pinfest last year, anytime I was watching someone play either of them and it starting smoking I’d say that I think it’s on fire!

Some of the reactions were hilarious

#6682 40 days ago

If anyone needs a decent shape OG smoked ramp, let me know how much it’s worth to you shipped.

IMG_9836 (resized).jpegIMG_9836 (resized).jpegIMG_9837 (resized).jpegIMG_9837 (resized).jpegIMG_9838 (resized).jpegIMG_9838 (resized).jpegIMG_9839 (resized).jpegIMG_9839 (resized).jpeg
#6683 40 days ago

$50 shipped?

Quoted from Riefepeters:If anyone needs a decent shape OG smoked ramp, let me know how much it’s worth to you shipped.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#6684 40 days ago

Seems cheap

#6685 40 days ago

Used brittle pinball parts are not worth as much as one would think.

Im selling EVERYTHING, I took of my TAF resto.

Its enough to make a great start on a full build lol.

Ill post an ad when Im done with my project.

#6686 40 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Used brittle pinball parts are not worth as much as one would think.
Im selling EVERYTHING, I took of my TAF resto.
Its enough to make a great start on a full build lol.
Ill post an ad when Im done with my project.

Right on I hope u do good on your restore cheers

#6687 39 days ago
Quoted from Williampinball:

Right on I hope u do good on your restore cheers

Well, shredder is still ahead of me, but Im catching up.

#6688 39 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Well, shredder is still ahead of me, but Im catching up.

Yes it sure takes tons of time too do it right can’t rush

#6689 39 days ago

Bringing up a little controversy here, and I apologize if this has already been discussed. I’m doing my own restoration, and I know I have clear posts at the bottom of the slings. Two other restorers are using purple posts. I looked it up in the manual, and sure enough, the manual says 2 purple posts. When I went to order them, 03-8319-3, that post doesn’t exist. Purple, as it says in the manual, is 03-8319-18. Then I found this post from 18 years ago. I really think the manual has a misprint and it is actually a clear post (03-8319-13).

IMG_1777 (resized).pngIMG_1777 (resized).pngIMG_1749 (resized).pngIMG_1749 (resized).png
#6690 39 days ago
Quoted from Mank:

Bringing up a little controversy here, and I apologize if this has already been discussed. I’m doing my own restoration, and I know I have clear posts at the bottom of the slings. Two other restorers are using purple posts. I looked it up in the manual, and sure enough, the manual says 2 purple posts. When I went to order them, 03-8319-3, that post doesn’t exist. Purple, as it says in the manual, is 03-8319-18. Then I found this post from 18 years ago. I really think the manual has a misprint and it is actually a clear post (03-8319-13).
[quoted image][quoted image]

My game came with the purple posts. My post kit from Marco came with the clear posts and it looks great with them on.

Its certainy looks odd with the purple ones, Im gonna stay with them, for now?

Its possibly a prototype thing, who knows.

#6691 39 days ago

Actually @pinballinreno, you are one of the restorers I was referring to. The other is Shredder565 who you have been unbelievable helpful with his scratch build. I’m not calling anyone out, because I think the clear or purple star posts look good there. I actually have both coming in the mail tomorrow. Thanks for your help @pinballinreno, you have helped me immensely on my TAF restoration which is needing the finish line.

#6692 39 days ago
Quoted from Mank:

Actually @pinballinreno, you are one of the restorers I was referring to. The other is Shredder565 who you have been unbelievable helpful with his scratch build. I’m not calling anyone out, because I think the clear or purple star posts look good there. I actually have both coming in the mail tomorrow. Thanks for your help @pinballinreno, you have helped me immensely on my TAF restoration which is needing the finish line.

I also read the old Narkive post about this:

https://rec.games.pinball.narkive.com/43QWXIEw/wtb-addams-opaque-purple-star-posts-03-8319-3

And I agree with Doug and Ray.

they were working on the games when they were brand new, so they would know.

My art director (@pinballgoddess) says the purple posts look stupid and interrupt the flow of the artwork...

So, I will most likely put the clear ones back in.

Mostly since "opaque purple star posts" dont exist lol. Definitely a misprint!

But it was fun to look at it with the purple!

The Allen Shoppe picture on the IPDB shows the posts as "clear"

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=20&picno=9388

image-9 (resized).jpgimage-9 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#6693 30 days ago

Trouble with my lower right TAF flipper. Upper flipper is fine, switch gaps at flipper and in cabinet seem fine, and EOS fine. But the flipper sometimes drops prematurely from the hold position with the flipper button held in. This only affects the lower right flipper--not the upper. Any ideas? Worth replacing the flipper coil?

#6694 30 days ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Trouble with my lower right TAF flipper. Upper flipper is fine, switch gaps at flipper and in cabinet seem fine, and EOS fine. But the flipper sometimes drops prematurely from the hold position with the flipper button held in. This only affects the lower right flipper--not the upper. Any ideas? Worth replacing the flipper coil?

Might be running on only the hold power.

I would test for 50 or more volts at the flipper before replacing the coil.

If the voltage checks out, then yeah a bad coil seems right.

#6695 30 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Might be running on only the hold power.

I would test for 50 or more volts at the flipper before replacing the coil.

If the voltage checks out, then yeah a bad coil seems right.

Good advice. Thanks!

#6696 30 days ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Worth replacing the flipper coil?

Flipper button leaf blade first.

LTG : )

#6697 30 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Flipper button leaf blade first.
LTG : )

I had a TAF that they put the high voltage tungsten leaf switches in it.

They constantly needed sanding off to get the flippers powerful though its a low voltage flip 1 system.

The switches would just get rusty.

#6698 29 days ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Trouble with my lower right TAF flipper. Upper flipper is fine, switch gaps at flipper and in cabinet seem fine, and EOS fine. But the flipper sometimes drops prematurely from the hold position with the flipper button held in. This only affects the lower right flipper--not the upper. Any ideas? Worth replacing the flipper coil?

Funny that you brought this up. I am having a similar issue with my lower and upper left flipper. It started to occur months ago, so I ordered 4 flipper rebuild kits. I did all four and I still periodically seem to lose power to those flippers. I doesn't occur on a consistent basis though. Maybe once in 4-5 games.

#6699 29 days ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Trouble with my lower right TAF flipper. Upper flipper is fine, switch gaps at flipper and in cabinet seem fine, and EOS fine. But the flipper sometimes drops prematurely from the hold position with the flipper button held in. This only affects the lower right flipper--not the upper. Any ideas? Worth replacing the flipper coil?

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I had a TAF that they put the high voltage tungsten leaf switches in it.
They constantly needed sanding off to get the flippers powerful though its a low voltage flip 1 system.
The switches would just get rusty.

Quoted from Playdium:

Funny that you brought this up. I am having a similar issue with my lower and upper left flipper. It started to occur months ago, so I ordered 4 flipper rebuild kits. I did all four and I still periodically seem to lose power to those flippers. I doesn't occur on a consistent basis though. Maybe once in 4-5 games.

Don't forget that TAF is the only game running with Fliptronics 1. There is an external power supply. Also, Fliptronics 1 doesn't have the snubber (coil) diode on the Fliptronics board so that TIP is more likely to fail than on the Fliptronics 2 board.

The EOS switch should have essentially no effect here. Its only purpose with Fliptronics is to give a momentary power push if something pushes the flipper down while in the hold state.

I like Lloyd's suggestion of the flipper button. Since there are separate contacts for the upper and lower flipper, I would start there by cleaning them. Note that these contacts should be gold plated, so don't file the contacts.
Check to insure that the flipper switches are wired properly - so that the lower flipper contacts close first, then the upper flipper. Usually, when this sort of problem happens, it is to the upper flipper since those contacts close second and may not be adjusted properly.

I have wanted to use these flipper switches to replace opto flipper switches, but have never done so.

It could be the hold winding. A broken wire in the winding could be making intermittent contact.

It could also be the solder/wire on the coil tab. Check to insure that the strands are not broken.

Check the header pin solder on the Fliptronics board that they call the "flipper controller board". Resolder the header pins if the solder is cracked.

This is the part number for the correct cabinet flipper switches.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-1A-192

#6700 29 days ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

Don't forget that TAF is the only game running with Fliptronics 1. There is an external power supply. Also, Fliptronics 1 doesn't have the snubber (coil) diode on the Fliptronics board so that TIP is more likely to fail than on the Fliptronics 2 board.
The EOS switch should have essentially no effect here. Its only purpose with Fliptronics is to give a momentary power push if something pushes the flipper down while in the hold state.
I like Lloyd's suggestion of the flipper button. Since there are separate contacts for the upper and lower flipper, I would start there by cleaning them. Note that these contacts should be gold plated, so don't file the contacts.
Check to insure that the flipper switches are wired properly - so that the lower flipper contacts close first, then the upper flipper. Usually, when this sort of problem happens, it is to the upper flipper since those contacts close second and may not be adjusted properly.
I have wanted to use these flipper switches to replace opto flipper switches, but have never done so.
It could be the hold winding. A broken wire in the winding could be making intermittent contact.
It could also be the solder/wire on the coil tab. Check to insure that the strands are not broken.
Check the header pin solder on the Fliptronics board that they call the "flipper controller board". Resolder the header pins if the solder is cracked.
This is the part number for the correct cabinet flipper switches.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-1A-192

All good points that you have mentioned. For me, I'm leaning more towards the Fliptronics board. Everything else is new with exception of the coils. Thanks

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