I am struggling with getting the mirrored backglass to fit in the channel. Do you have any suggestions? None of the alternative lift bars or plastics seem to fit in the channel! Any help is greatly appreciated!

Use system 11 trim.

The lift channel must have no rib running thru it.

System 11 lift channel has no rib for a translite.

The rib makes the channel too wide to fit in the slot after being pressed on.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-backglass-trim

Wondering if I should get my Adams powder coated or leave it original stainless? I kinda like the feeling of stainless on the palms-weird?
Any good suggestions on powder colors? Metallic purple, Iridescent pearl?

I did black and liked the way it turned out. To me I like to have the "trim" not stand out as when I look at the sides of a cabinet my first impression should be the art work and not the trim (side rails, lock down bar, legs, coin door etc.) Again it's a personal choice.

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I just came here to say that no game will ever come close to beating Addams for the best, most satisfying jackpot. Don't even say TZ - it's a close second but Addams will never be dethroned.

Such a clean look. Love the green rubber as well.

Once you go black...

Whoa

black

Original always looks best!

Every time I see your machine-I sit and stare-such a work of art! I do like the black-it looks classy

I do agree with you about how certain trims will offset the cabinet art-especially on Adams with the solid black. There does not seem to be many color choices that would match well with the art. I was thinking a purple or white to tie in with the art. Has anyone done purple or a white(pearl) of some kind?

Some of the colors I think may look good are Candy Purple, Merlins Potions, and a Pearl Sparkle. (Would like to see one done in pearl type if possible?)
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Hi there,

can someone send me hires scan of TAFG cabinet front?
On mine, the rose beneath the start button badly needs restoration.

Hi

I need some assistance, my GI lights are starting to play up, sometimes the left works, other times left and right, backbox lights are ok, but the people backbox lights are out ..

I replaced J120 and still the same issue, finally in frustration pushed a few connectors home and discovered that I have an issue with J115. The connector gets very warm and looks burnt. If I move the connector I can get all lights to come on, once machine has been off for a while all GI lights go out on startup and sometimes come back on..

I'm assuming I need to replace the IDC connector and header pins ?

Ive seen posts on IDC connectors or sometime connectors with crimp connectors ?

Any advice on which would be best, I'd prefer to go with whatever looks closest to original, however if there is a better option that elevates the J115 issue then I'll try that ..

Any ideas ?

Yup.

LTG : )

Thanks, my concern with removing the header pins is (my skills soldering and de-soldering) also making sure I have continuity from both sides of the board, I know this is sometimes an issue. I'm tempted to just replace the header and see how that goes ..

Next question do I stick with IDC Header or move over to crimp housing instead ?

The standard fix is to use a molex connector and trifurcon pins.

Should be joining the club officially early next week! This has been a grail title for me for many many years. One finally popped up at a good price and close enough driving distance. AND, it didn't get snatched up before I could have a shot at it! Super excited to be joining soon!

Has anyone seen one of these DouTone CPR mirrored backglasses in person? I'm considering it for an Addams Gold. Would it look good, or is it overkill with all the other gold trim? Opinions?

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I have that exact thing, I really like it

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Exciting. I got one at a good price earlier in the year. Collecting parts for a full restore. Super fun pin.

I like it! But, is that the black and white version, or the DuoTone gold ish version?

Nice! I'm sure I'll start collecting parts as well as soon as I pick it up!

Got her home and set up. Just needs a good cleaning and shop job.

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Just got these lights from a seller on eBay. I hated LEDs in there, and I tried a number of them, so stuck with the incandescents with the covers. But I’m digging the look of these when they’re off, and nice and bright with strong color when on!

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Those are from me. Many different colors available in clear or vapor metallic. PM me is you want a kit for your TAF or any pin for that matter. Real glass with LED filament, 6V DC 555 bulb fit and finish.

Been meaning to set up a Pinside shop but just stuck it in my eBay store.

ebay.com link: itm

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Awesome! I had to put some games on them after putting them in. Like them a lot!

Has anyone tried putting slightly stronger coils in the upper right and left flippers? My upper right gets spongy after a few games, and the left mini flipper is about useless at any time. The main flippers feel ok.

Rebuilt, or everything clean and working ?

Your game. Do what you want to make it play the way you want.

Upper left - if you change it you'll need to go into settings and hit New Location, so after ten games or so thing flips relearns the shot.

LTG : )

Just acquired it. I'm going to tear the mechs down and clean them first. I'm just curious if anyone else has actually done it. Good tip about Thing flips! I had no idea it actually learned the shot.

Think this would cause weak flippers?
The plunger had dug grooves into the coil sleeve it was so mushroomed out......LOL

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You hit the trifecta. Coil stop worn. Plunger worn. Plastic link between plunger and pawl cracked.

May as well rebuild all four flippers.

When you do be sure and hit new location in settings so thing flips starts learning the shot with new parts.

LTG : )

Already did it. I'm just sharing my jackpot winnings! Thanks for the heads up on the menu settings

Hello everyone.

I'm looking for suggestions for how to keep the yellow lamp from constantly coming out of the electric chair socket. It is a wedge type. I've considered pulling the chair and changing to a bayonet, but I don't think there is room in the chair for a bayonet socket.

I've tried adjusting the metal contacts in the wedge socket to provide more friction but, so far it hasn't helped.

Any suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!

A tiny dab of hot glue on the back where you can't see it.

And when you adjust the metal tabs in the wedge socket, pull the wires at the base of the bulb out a little.

LTG : )

That’s an awesome tip!

https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-2-lead-socket-with-laydown-mounting-bracket.html

LTG : )

My machine is at a friend's place so I can't easily access it to provide an image. If I get an opportunity to provide an image I will.

A few things.

• If you don't want to butcher your original you can get a new base plate from Marco @ https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10593 and use it as the base for the new chair.
• Acquire a two or three lug bayonet socket. Be aware that these lamps are controlled lamps so they are part of the lamp matrix and require a diode. The diode does NOT need to be in the chair. It can be attached at the Molex connector under the playfield. It only needs to be electrically correct.
• Based on the possibility of using a new base plate you may want to consider a new wire cable/harness. I built a new one and just replaced the entire assembly. Any new owner can put the old one back if they want.

https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-3-lead-socket-with-laydown-mounting-bracket.html

LTG : )

Beating my head because the TAF in doing now needed the new plate and put in new 555 sockets. …Next one will get this.

I just enlarged the hole on my chair a bit so it doesn't put pressure on the bulb. It went through a long night of playing w no issues. Now I've removed the chair again for a custom paint job.

I replaced the 555 sockets with new ones. They are much tighter. Have not had a bulb fall out since.

Also can try glass LED in 555 shape. Correct wire loop at the bottom and automotive tolerances for the press dimensions. Fits just like original 555’s but benefits of colored LED. If you want factory look silicon boot fits right over them.

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Now here's a game that's SCREAMING for a remake. For example:

Most popular pinball game of all-time for a damn good reason.

I’ll second this one again - got the darker bulb version of this from MG, and it looks awesome. The color and light really stand out compared to the incandescents, but don’t look as out of place as putting a regular LED in. I’m a fan

Thank you everyone for the suggestions.

@Dumbass, I think I'm going to go with the bayonet sockets. Fortunately, when I made this assembly, I put the diodes in line with the wiring harness, so they won't be in the way if I change the sockets. Hopefully I can hollow out the chair a bit to make things fit more easily.

Since this machine was a scratch build, I have no plans to sell it

Thanks again!

Hy everybody.
I am an owner of an Addams family. When i start the pin, this comes on, H4 L1 .
Is H4 L1 the game rom? Do i have to upgrade?

thanks

Made that a key post Victor.

This kind of confirms to me that if I were a 3D printing guy, I would try to 3D print a chair where the holes are set a bit more forward. It always seems like one or both of the lights isn’t sticking straight out straight.

Hello. I'm trying to locate a replacement metal flap piece for the Window Ramp A-15150. I see suppliers that sell the whole assembly, but I just need the blue steel flap piece. Mine has lost its finish, and I'd like it to match the flaps that came with my new main ramp.

Any leads appreciated. Thanks!