Is anyone making a revised TAF Tip36/magnet board for under the playfield that addresses the potential for the magnet burn?
(Topic ID: 78709)
Linked Games
Addams Family Gold (Special Collectors Edition), The
Bally, 1994-
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
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Quoted from RussMyers:That's what the fuse kit is for.
RM
Thanks Russ ! Just ordered it.
It looks like the mod from the old days from Ray Johnson at action pinball!
If you do anything to it at all, clear-coat the playfield.
Have it done professionally or do it yourself. This will drastically improve the life of the game.
DEFINITLY install the magnet fuse mod/fix from leesparts or others if it hasn't been done already!
Magnet burn has ruined tons of TAF and it a terrible thing.
New playfields are NLA and in very short supply and may never be released again due to licensing issues.
All of the other toys and mods do not affect the game play and sometimes can cause ball hangs and such.
However:
The one mod that will make the game better is the colorDMD mod along with the thing backbox light fix for it.
JMHO
1 week later
Quoted from Nate:Greetings,
I have an Addams Family at my office for employees to play--it runs well but was routed prior to it's arrival so there is a lot of wear to the cabinet and playfield. Eventually when the CPR playfield is reproduced I will be ready to do a full restoration.
Question, where can a set of cabinet decals be found?
Nate
http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/the-addams-family-cabinet-decals.html
1 month later
At least the bookcase sign is still there, and the top plastic...
Probably original rubber on the mini-posts.
Quoted from Arcade:Came with white rubber rings from the factory.
But I don't doubt they are old.
They look like dried black clay, I imagine all the rubber looks this good.
2 weeks later
Quoted from KornFreak28:What do you guys think about the issue I described above with the ball taking too long to pop into the shooter lane after thing drops it? Thanks
Make sure that the metal box isnt dented or bent up too much. If so it can be hammered out. There once was a fix like a flat plastic that could be installed to repair bent worn out bottom panels. Kind of like the trough "V " that is being sold.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Ok guys reporting back on one of my issues. I replaced every single part on the shooter rod including a stronger spring ect. My problem of weak plunges did not go away. Upon closer inspection I noticed the metal tabs on the shooter lane where the ball sits on are not leveled, see picture. On top of the tabs not leveled, The shooter rod is too high and is not hitting the ball squarely in the center. The playfield tabs are sitting nicely and the machine is completely leveled. Anybody know what I can do to fix this issue? Thanks!
Everything has to be taken off (apron, skill shot meter etc.)
I had to tweak things quite a bit to get the shooter rod to hit the ball squarely.
Shooter rod assembly,casting can be moved around a bit (loosen the 3 nuts). On one game I had to file out the wooden triangular cut-out for the shooter assembly in order to get it exact.
Also look at the hooks that support the PF in the front and see of you can loosen and get the PF to move where you want it.
Its not too bad to get it all aligned, just tweak, nudge, bend and adjust whatever seems to be the problem.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Can I just maybe bend those tabs a bit? All very good suggestions. Thank you very very much!
Absolutely, if it works do it. As long as the shooter tip is squarely centered on the ball.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Ok once I remove the apron and meter, do I bend them some?
Already tweaked the rod assembly, that didn't help.
I'm thinking I can sand the triangle hole like you suggest. What did you use to sand it? How much did you sand it? Do you by any chance take pictures of it?
Thanks!
Before modifying the cabinet try tweaking the front PF supports to get another 1/16" of lateral play.
I used a rattail file and moved the shooter assembly about 1/8".
TAF is a tight fit as far as the shooter getting centered properly, especially if a repro PF was installed. The clearances are super tight.
On a lot of games the shooter tip drags on the skill shot meter, you can see the wear on he rubber.
Also inspect the rear PF guides/supports and see how it sits. If its crooked in the rear it will be crooked in the front.
Take a general look at how the PF sits in the cabinet it should be fairly square and centered for the most part.
But like I said before with a little tweaking you can get it just right.
I had a Funhouse that was off 1/4" and kept moving around during game play. It turned out to be the pivot bushing was worn out completely on both sides and the PF was just loose and flopping around.
Quoted from KornFreak28:The pivot bushing....are those the brackets where the PF sits and pivots on? If I sand the hole, will I ruin the decal art work?
All great suggestions...will follow your guidance and report back! Thanks!
If you move he shooter assembly, you might have to touch-up around it with a black paint pencil or a sharpie in a pinch.
A line where the shooter was originally may appear but its not noticeable for the most part
It looks like you only need 1/8" to make up.
After tweaking everything you might only need to file 1/16" or none at all.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Ok got it. The pivot bushings is the baracket(s) where the PF sits and pivots on correct?
Yes, but I think they only come into play of they are super worn out or broken. On these 20 year old games, everything is showing signs of wear.
Loose/worn mounts cause the PF to sit at crooked or a crosswise angle in the cabinet but that can be compensated for with the leg levelers.
I have seen a couple games where a screw was inserted in the lockdown bar slot where the front hanger goes to keep the PF centered.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Yeah, I will inspect everything you suggested and report back after I get off work
On the issue with the thing box, when I lifted the PF last night I could hear something like maybe a bulb or screw loose and moving around in there. Maybe that is the cause of my issue? I will remove the box and inspect and report back. Thanks!
Subways, PF boxes, scoops, you name it generally have broken rubbers, bulbs, screws and bits of broken off wire gates in them.
I have even pulled out complete cherry switches, coins/tokens and even a shirt button.
Its amazing what you find in games especially heavily routed ones.
My Vendo 44 Coke machine had a full coin box filled the mercury head dimes and buffalo nickels from the early 50's. The key was missing and nobody bothered to open it. I bought it "as-is" and it worked perfectly, still running today.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Guys,
My top box lights behind the translite all work but I noticed I only have one bulb that blinks (the top left one with the red window). That is the only one that blinks. How many bulbs are supposed to blink in the top box? Why do I only have this one bulb blink? All the other bulbs work perfectly in the top box, but the ones that are supposed to blink, don't blink at all, they just stay on. Am I supposed to have a special bulb for the areas that are supposed to blink? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
The backbox originally had 7 of the 455 blinker bulbs.
The 455 blinker is not a managed flasher and just blinks randomly.
In the link below from the IPDB, the bulbs that are unlit are the 455 blinkers.
Sadly the 455 blinkers are no longer in manufacture. Regular bulbs were put in to replace the blinkers as they wore out.
455 blinkers do exist but the supply is very limited and they can be very expensive.
One can however upgrade the sockets to the wedge style and use the newer 545 blinkers in the same circuit.
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=20&picno=32946&zoom=1
You can also replace the missing blinkers with newer blinking LED lights.
But these seem a little bright to me and dont have the side illumination that an incandescent bulb does.
This leads to the odd polka-dot pattern on some back glasses from an LED upgrade.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Do I have to replace the socket if I install LEDs?
Get the 455 from Terry they will look the best.
Unless there is a side illuminating LED that is suitable for this application
Quoted from KornFreak28:On a my issue of the plunger not hitting the ball 100%, I noticed the PF is sitting too low and the plunger is hitting the top part of the shooter meter. Can I put some washers on the PF hooks to lift up the PF a bit? Has anyone done this before? Does it work? Any other ideas? Thanks!
Sometimes the hooks are sagging from age and weight. They can be removed and bent into their correct position.
If the hooks are weak (lost their tempering) and dont hold their setting, new ones can be purchased.
***However, often brand new ones will have to be bent into shape, to make them perfect.
Quoted from terryb:If the brackets on the front of the playfield are bent (allowing the playfield to sit lower) then put them in a vise and straighten them out. Washers shouldn't be needed.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Honestly they do not look bent at all, in fact, they look brand new. I will try to post a pic. If they are in fact not bent, will washer work at all? Thanks
You can put washers if you want, a couple fender washers will be ok, but they will probably sink in over time. Most of us just bend the supports to our liking.
Quoted from KornFreak28:These hooks look new, will try to post a picture of them if the system lets me. What is the exact correct position? Can you possible post a pic? I mean, mine look pretty good but I could be wrong.
Also, I'm in full panick mode! I was unscrewing the shooter rod assembly to try to position it more to the left, but the screw that is right next to the cabinet was sooo stubborn it got stripped! I have tried everything and it just won't come out. Already tried the rubber band method, the glue and toothpick method, bigger screwdriver, nothing works. Can I drill it out until I completely destroy it? Any other ideas please? Thanks!
Stripped screw problem? Drill them out or try an extractor from home depot.
Stripped hex head bolt? Try a gator socket or one of the other extractors.
Stripped hex head screw? Cut off the head with diagonals (side cutters?) or try Vampliers (needle nose vise grips)
Stripped nut? try a small nut splitter (especially on old stripped flipper bat nuts)
On the shooter rod assembly (cast aluminum), I would just grind off the head of the screw with a dremel, or use a cut-off wheel.
It will come out of the assembly with vise grips and a hammer later on by whacking on it.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Also, where exactly do you bend them? Next to the hook that sits on the cabinet?
I usually put them in my vise and hammer/bend a bit to get that 1/8" you are looking for.
Looks like a lithium battery installation, could be a capacitor, instead of the regular batteries. This is used to hold your high scores when the game is not powered up.
Its an older system. Now we use NVRAM. Much better and requires no maintenance forever.
Get the NVRAM kit and cut that off when you get a chance.
The top hooked part is no longer square to the rest of the support.
Bend the smaller upper hook part down a bit to raise the PF. You can probably make that adjustment on each support after removal of course with a hammer. Just knock it down a little, like 1/8".
Quoted from KornFreak28:I wanted to ask you: Does this capacitor or lithium battery ever need to be replaced? Does it require some type of maintenance? Is it OK if I just keep it for now? Thanks
I doesnt appear to be doing anything bad at the moment. I would leave it alone.
When it gets time to change it out I would get the nvram.
Quoted from Neal_W:When they eventually fail, the pin will reset to 'no free play', and give a probably give an error.
If you un-plug the game your hi-scores will reset.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Question for the team here -
I am replacing my TAF bulbs with LEDs, and cleaning up the inserts and playfield. The majority of the bulbs work great - replaced 555s and #44s no problem, they look amazing. I just turned on the game again to check my progress, and I realized that ALL 906 bulbs have failed, simultaneously.
I understand that 906s must match polarity but would all of them fail at once if one was accidentally switched? ? These are the original 906s, as I forgot to order those in the set.
I want to get some of the easy possibilities out of the way before I got hunting for a bad connection or something (which I seriously doubt, as I was super careful not to pull on anything). Would the change in voltage somehow negatively affect the 906s? Must I replace them with LEDs also for some reason ?
thanks very much... playfield looks great except for the gigantic holes in The Power and the graveyard !!
Check the fuse. Also look up what coil is controlling the flashers (not a real coil) you will understand the circuit better.
Quoted from Bryno:There are more pictures of the PF but I didn't post them all and the rest look as good as the ones I did to be fair.
True, didn't think about the boards and the insides etc. But if he has put so much work on the rest you would hope the internals are in similar shape.
He didn't mention that it had new decals, but yes you are right, they look like new as does the whole cab to be fair.
Looks like I know what I might be doing this weekend then. ROAD TRIP!!
You really cant go wrong at that price. If it works well enough and everything works, youve got youself a steal.
Quoted from Miguel351:You guys realize the price he's paying is in British Pounds, right? £4K = roughly $5300. Granted that TAF in the pictures looks pretty nice, but seeing it in person will make all the difference in the world. The seller might be one of those scammers like we've got here in the states who use googled images in the ad and actually have a piece of junk.
I'm not saying to not go look at it and/or to not go buy it, I'm just saying to pump the brakes a bit and take it slow. Don't get in a mad rush and make a hasty decision. Educate yourself as much as possible on the problem areas TAF has, how much they cost to fix(parts and labor time), and what to look for when you go look at it. Then, look at what TAF's sell for in private transactions in and around the Manchester and Sheffield areas. Retailers here in the colonies mark up their used TAF's to as much as $10k or more, if they think they've got something really nice. But TAF's rarely go for that much in private sales, unless it's a TAFG in really good nick. A retailer on ebay lists machines for $9k all the time that would sell for literally half that in a private sale here on Pinside.
All that to say this: Arm yourself with information. It is your best friend and your best bargaining partner in negotiations when you go to look at it.
Still from the pics we have seen its a pretty nice game for $5300 IMHO....
1 week later
The magnets can be loose or not installed firmly against the PF. This can be why some magnets seem more powerful than others.
In other cases the magnets are worn out or have developed resistance (get hot easily etc) to the point that they become weak.
Also the wall current is an issue, higher power makes for a more sprightly game. Low power or games on an extension cord or mutli-outlet strip can suffer from anemic performance.
2 months later
Quoted from leesparts:Set the A.2 30 Buy Extra Ball adjustment.
In order to enable you would need to add a buy in button. Sorry, I have no idea how you would wire it in.
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Oh yeah.... That's the hard part!!!
adding the buy in button is not too hard:
Quoted from jbovenzi:The "hands" Uncle Fester was originally on eBay from a gentleman in Spain. I have purchased two of them directly from him as I thought they were well made. I preferred it to the "bulb in the mouth" Fester.
They were hand painted and look great!
http://pinballpro.net/shop/uncle-lester-af-1/
http://www.pinballdecals.com/TAF_UncleFester4Point0Page.html
4 months later
2 weeks later
Quoted from Bronty:is that a reply to me? You think those chips might be bad?
I think it just answers an earlier question.
Now make sure you dont install them backwards, be very careful to get the cut-out in the right direction and dont bend a pin.
1 month later
Quoted from billsfanmd:Anyone replace the round blue bookcase base? easy? difficult? pics or instructions somewhere?
thx
Its not too bad, the manual has an exploded view of it.
2 weeks later
Quoted from golfingdad1:Thanks Russ.
Any body have tips on removing these side rails ???
Appears there is only one nut and bolt near the flipper button, and adhesive holding the rail down . But it's on GOOD.
The adhesive is double sided tape.
Careful use of a putty knife will slice off the tape without damaging the visable artwork below the siderails.
I just put a plastic spatula below the putty knife while working off the tape and have good results.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:FOR SALE; $175 SHIPPED
Brand new clear Addams ramp with staircase decals. Sockets and blue steal attached. NIB, New reproduction thicker plastic.
PM for details. Paypal only.
seems a tiny bit high on price but still very competitive:
http://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/The-Addams-Family-Main-Ramp
http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/720/the-addams-family-main-ramp.htm
http://bcspinball.com/product_info.php?cPath=0_3_12_63_64&products_id=42
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:the smoke version, not as popular.
I agree with that ! I hate the smoke version, so Im not a big fan of it...but to each his own...
2 months later
Quoted from slvrballer:Those are some very poor welds.
I cant say that the welds are poor without looking at it closely, maybe the weld just isnt buffed off.
2 weeks later
Quoted from mrgregb123:I got the unobtainable bookcase rubber pads in over the weekend from Mr. Pinball. I've contacted via PM those who expressed interest back when I said I'd order them. If I have any left over, I'll post here.
If you have one left over, I would like it!
2 weeks later
Quoted from Vdrums:what could cause my TAF upper flipper to stick sometimes?
Take it apart and clean the coil sleeve and coil stop.
While your looking at it check to see if anything is interfering with its movement like a broken switch or spring.
Also check that the return spring is in good order.
Check that all the parts are clean and in good condition and not binding in any way.
1 month later
3 months later
Quoted from mima:Anyone interested in these battery adaptors for a single 1/2 AA lithium battery. Get rid of the Alcaline leakable batteries and just plug this adapter into your 3AA battery holder with a 1/2 AA lithium battery instead.
$10 a piece
$12 shipping (up to 5 adapter sets).
Cheers
/mima
I think those are a great idea!
My nvrams dont hold the clock settings when I get power failures, typically 3 times a day here.
1 month later
Quoted from Skyemont:I have been working on a Addams this week. Not my Gold but for someone else. Has anyone ever seen Fester and Swamp Scoops this bad. New ones are on order.
Looks like someone was using the scoop to learn how to weld, and didnt use a hood or goggles!
4 weeks later
Quoted from sake:How would you rate this playfield? Doubting for a PF swap.
Since there a couple options for the swap it would go for the swap.
It would cost the same as a restoration and the inserts would be firmly glued in as they would be new.
I looked at the Mirco offering at TPF and I would say that its the best option but the CPR one is also good.
I have both now and either would be exceptional.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Rensh:So, spent USD 5 on eBay for a couple of fuseholders with a 3A sloblow fuse to make TAF more bulletproof. No brown burnmarks on my playfield
Thats probably the best $5 solution out there, but you can still get magnet burn. I have seen it happen a couple times.
The best solution that I have never seen fail, is to get the replacement magnet board. I put them in all my TAF.
It was re-engineered to work correctly/perfectly and they are inexpensive:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-addams-family-fused-high-power-board-a-15139
If anyone has seen a burned playfield after installing this please let me know.
Quoted from Rensh:Just nicely ordered on a pcb and not in the wires.
Plus its not 25 years old and failure prone.
It's a high voltage circuit and the TIP36's are prone to failure or "lock on"
The whole board is only a couple bucks more than rebuilding an old board completely and getting in-line fuse holders.
JMHO
Quoted from golfingdad1:Says they are no longer available..?
Did you try the main site:
1 week later
Quoted from Chosen_S:I will tackle the Thing lights connector soon...
I Discovered a mod protection fuse blown under the playfield for the left magnet, I replaced the fuse with a three amp slow blow and it seems that the magnet is locked on, I switched connectors to another magnet, and powered on the machine and that magnet locked on also. So I guess I’m looking at replacing a transistor and driver. Does anyone offhand know which one I need to look at on the driver board ?. I’m waiting on my manual to arrive that I purchased a few days ago
Maybe just get the newer replacement board it's really nice:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-addams-family-fused-high-power-board-a-15139
Quoted from pinballinreno:Maybe just get the newer replacement board it's really nice:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-addams-family-fused-high-power-board-a-15139
Quoted from Chosen_S:Lol, I just ordered that. Thanks guys!
Does this board hold all of the drivers necessary to control the magnets?
If the magnet is locked on, does this board replace the driver functionality from the MPU?
Yes and yes.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yes and yes.
If the problem is the typical failed tip36 on the magnet board.
4 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from biscoseattle:Hey all!
New to pinside and considering buying my first pin. I’ve really had my heart set on Addams Family and I found one in my area at a reasonable price. All working condition, play field with slight wear but it has magnet burn (which I think is pretty typical). I’d plan on getting the fuse kit as many have suggested but how worried should I be about the burn as a signal of pin condition? Any thoughts or guidance?
Since Mirco has released The Addams Family Playfields I would just replace the Playfield and you have an amazing brand new game.
Because of this I would pay a lot less for any game that has magnet burn knowing I could get a replacement Playfield at this point.
So don't pay too much and for the quick fix put the decal over it and play the heck out of it.
Quoted from biscoseattle:thanks for the advice ericpinballfan . Will install the fuse kit!
I've found the magnet burn overlay decal online (one with just the cloud part and one with the full orange magnet part). Is it just a simple stick on situation or do I need to sand down or do any other prep to level the playfield before application?
I'm not to concerned with the look as long as its better than the burn but can the decal cause other issues down the road?
It's stick on.
2 months later
Quoted from Michael_D:Fellow pinsiders, one of the mylars is lifting on my TAF. Should I try to remove, try to re-adhere, or leave alone?
[quoted image]
Sadly it will have to be removed.
Your choice as to whether you use the heat or freeze or alcohol soak/wet method.
If the edge is lifting I always elect to use the wet method.
Its time consuming but does the least damage.
Use plastic razor blades or credit card egdes.
the problem is since it's lifting it's going to start to curl and when it curls it's going to launch the ball and cause some divots or further damage to the Playfield.
So pretty soon it's going to have to be fixed
3 weeks later
Quoted from biscoseattle:Just wanted to share an update on my first pin. I bought it about 4 months ago. It was a heavily routed machine and was playable but buggy when I received it but now it’s really beginning to shine. I learned all my shopping skills from here and YouTube and I’m complete newbie. Here’s what I did over the past two weeks.
-Disassembled most of the topside, removed random Mylar, waxed and cleaned. Was filthy!
-installed magnet burn protectors (had to cut and repin the Molex because the joints were melted together). Bad burn!
-wet installed magnet burn decal (a few months back - see previous post
- replaced all rubbers
- fixed all broken bulb sockets (mostly replacing broken diodes)
- added LEDs to all inserts and pop bumpers. Comet pinball. Color matched for most part.
- added LED OCD board. Hated the flickering of TAF pins I’ve seen in past.
- added comet led flipper buttons
-added bookcase mod from lees parts
- added swamp mod (just used comet cheap LED strips)
- added 2 comet blue LEDs to back of play field
- added comet led strip to trough (ok I went crazy on The led strips but they are so cheap!)
Wow. What a trip. So much fun to learn all these new skills. I had neve even used a soldering iron before a few weeks ago. It was a little nerve racking taking everything apart but pictures helped.
Thanks to advice of so many here. Was particularly fun trying to get the lighting scheme right. Experimented with a lot of bulbs. I’m glad I resisted temptation of just doing a kit.
I don’t think I’m done. Next up I think is updating the GI to LED and adding GI OCD board. I may change the trough strip to purple and add some spotlights. Well see. I’m pretty happy for now.
To bad my game is so damn fast now I need to relearn how to play.
Thanks again to this community. Here’s a pic.[quoted image]
Looks nice and spooky!
Great job.
TAF benefits from 4 spotlights or pinstadium lights.
Check out the poor man's pinstadium lights thread.
Quoted from Coyote:Hey guys -
Quick tech question for everyone!
I know you can adjust the height of the bookcase so that it is nice and level with the playfield. But what's the procedure for aligning the bookcase base left-to-right? On this game, one side - say in front of the ramp - may be even with the playfield, but the end that leads to the Adv X loop under Thing is a good 1/8" higher.
Thanks!
Yes, the adjustment is underneath. A combination of washers and post nut adjustments.
It's a little finicky but can be adjusted perfectly.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Durzel:Thanks very much. To be honest I am looking for something that needs minimal - if any - work, as I'm more a player than a maintainer. As said the guy isn't exactly selling it super cheap so I'll probably end up passing on it.
I would pass on it then and get a better example. Still pinball machines need maintenance, sometimes.
1 month later
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Good morning Addams owners. As a I hope to be an owner of one of these some day, it is my grail pin, I would like to start acquiring the more common broken, missing, damaged LOW BUDGET items each time I order other parts from the various suppliers. If you could post a reply with the more frequent things you have replaced (not counting rubbers or bulbs), I would be grateful!
If on a budget it's best to get the game first.
Take it apart, then order all of the worn out, broken parts.
This way you dont waste money on extra parts you didnt need.
1 month later
Quoted from pacman11:My addams family speaker isn't working in the base of the cabinet. Everything is hooked up, the sound almost sounds really quite or something. Any thoughts on this? Thanks!
Loose or broken wire or IDC connection, blown cap on the audio board?
Bad speaker?
2 weeks later
Quoted from EvanDickson:Awesome thanks! A couple follow-up questions.
ROMs! It seems people don't prefer the gold roms that this machine has installed. There are a lot of versions, what version do people best?
Also, this board has been added, does anyone know what it's for? It looks like it runs to the audio board and to the topper.[quoted image]
Could be an anti-pop relay to eliminate the start and end pop sounds?
3 weeks later
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Yes, we are both referring to the 4 piece plastic trim.
If its actual glass and not a translite, you dont need plastic trim. Only need a lift channel.
Quoted from Durzel:Good to know. Shame that info isn't on their website really, as not everyone will realise that it's not a complete ready-to-fit item they're buying.
None of the backglass need plastic trim. It doesnt need to be held together.
Trim pieces were developed to clamp the thin translites to the plastic sheets, so they could be installed as a unit and not flop all over while installing.
Backglass is one piece. All it needs is a lift channel to get it out.
1 week later
Quoted from Durzel:I'm trying to wire up a power adapter to my TAF to power some mods, the instructions I've been given show a pin layout that doesn't match mine..
The instructions have this on:
[quoted image]
But my female transformer plug looks like this:
[quoted image]
According to this - http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Primary_Voltage_Selection_Jumpers_at_the_Transformer - the white wire (in pin 4 on mine) should be in pin 7, and the orange loop (in pin 6 on mine) should be in pin 9.
The machine works without any issues so I can only presume I'm missing something obvious, or the male plug is wired wrong?
Is my configuration legit? (I'm guessing it is nothing like you US guys have)
Its always better to plug an external supply into the service outlet for mods.
The game will be more stable.
Just sayin' ...
2 weeks later
Quoted from EvanDickson:I adjusted my plunger as much as possible, but I would have to cut into the cabinet to adjust it enough to make a difference.
Sounds like the front playfield hangers are bent or sagging.
Or possibly the lockdown assembly is at the incorrect height?
The hangers can be bent/adjusted to gain quite a bit of height or even lowered.
Quoted from EvanDickson:They don't like it, but I never thought of that. U can probably drill new holes in the apron and hang the whole thing slightly higher. Looks like there's a half inch or so of wiggle room before apron starts to interfere with play field glass.
For the most part you just bend the hangers up or down in a vice or something to get things to match up.
It also possible that they are the wrong ones.
There are a couple different drop lengths. Also might be stern hangers.
Measure yours and maybe get these:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11401
You can also put fender washers between the playfield and the hanger to raise it if its sagging and adjust the upper holes/slots in the hanger for the apron with a dremel if needed.
Quoted from Neal_W:Yup, my plunger is also a bit too high at the lowest setting. Last time I checked, I didn't see any new hangars available for TAF.
Maybe these:
Quoted from metahugh:These are the same dimensions as the originals and are in stainless steel:
https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-playfield-hanger-short/
Those are really nice!
Mantis makes the short and long versions. Measure to be sure.
Quoted from EvanDickson:Those are what I got. Something's just out of whack. I removed the overly complicated fix and printed 1/2" spacers to raise the pf on the hanger. Works great, although I can't screw the apron into the hanger now and the apron is practically touching the glass, which looks a little unusual.[quoted image]
What are the dimensions of your hangers? The length?
Can you post a pic of the front edge of you game where the lockdown receiver is?
If you have the short hangers, something is wrong, or you have the wrong hangers.
Quoted from EvanDickson:2-1/4".[quoted image]
That looks right.
So, if the lockbar receiver isn't 1/2" lower than the front edge of the cabinet, then the plunger cut-out must have been reworked.
It should be level with the edge.
I have seen a couple games that someone lowered the lockdown receiver due to stripped out mounting screws. Easy to fix with toothpicks or bamboo skewers and glue.
Your spacers seem to do the trick though, just need to drill out holes for the apron screws.
Being close to the glass isn't a problem as long as it doesn't scrape the glass.
Quoted from EvanDickson:Hmm. I wonder if the lockdown receiver is too high now.
It should be level with the cabinet front panel top edge.
But if it is too high or low then the correct lock bar would not engage the hooks. Unless it's the wrong one or reworked.
Or even possibly the wrong receiver and lockdown bar as a set, from a different game as a repair.
Quoted from Chosen_S:Hi, my lower left flipper stopped working (upper left flipper still working)...
pulled the fuse on the driver board (was a 4 amp) and replaced with 3 amp, the flipper activated once and stopped working. Pulled the fuse again and tested with DMM ok, put fuse back in.
Checked the action of the flipper, recently rebuilt and action ok
Checked the eos switch (new) and action good
Checked the button stacked switches, looks good
Went to switch test, switch test good on both left flippers
What do I go check now?
Thanks TAF club.
Might be bad tip 36 and predriver transistor on fliptronics flipper board
Quoted from Durzel:Can anyone tell me what purpose this metal post serves? I've seen it on some Addams, but on the ones its fitted on there is nothing attached to it. Is it purely there to stop a stray airball from potentially rolling behind the Thing box?
[quoted image]
Put a bug on it, one of the random ones from the plastics set.
Quoted from dnaman:I have not seen a kicker in the thing box. It seemed to me like Thing drops the ball, the ball rolls out of the box and then likely kicked over with a coil but the ball actually leaves the Thing box, or so I thought. I did have issues with the ball sometimes getting stuck in a divot, in the box, (large enough denting) where Thing drops the ball at the bottom of the box. I will have to order another box as my temp fix has been just ok to date.
Hammer the dent out.
The box is thin metal and easily hammered back into shape.
Lightly tap on the dent over a block of wood until its flat again.
1 week later
Quoted from Durzel:I'm getting pretty consistent airballs when the ball comes back down the Bear ramp (after not making it around) when it hits the flipper at the same time as it is flipped, as is instinctive to do.
It's hit the glass once and also hit the Fester figurine on the chair too, which wasn't cheap.
The pin is at 6.5 degrees according to PinGuy so I don't know what else I can do besides telling people not to flip at the same time as the ball coming back down. Any other suggestions? Is there any kind of angle adjustment on the flipper?
If you have LED's you can get more flipper power.
Adjust EOS switch to open earlier. Low power will kick in sooner.
Change to weaker flipper coils or put it on a variac and turn the power down.
AC Voltage Regulator，20 Amp Variac Variable Transformer, 2000va Max, 0~130 V Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KM13B2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hw1TCbMXTVNJY
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:I'm in the club
Cab is pretty worn and the PF got some wear but everything seem to work as it should. It's already led's, cliffy's and a rottendog fliptronics card in it. Oh, previous owner also swapped to a new clear ramp plastic
Already ordered overlays for the PF (mansion and magnets above), new apron stickers, star posts, rubbers and some other stuff. Will also add the magnet fuse kit to be on the safe side. Currently going through the whole game cleaning and polishing everything; It will be great when fixed.
I have to do something about that abomination of a coin door; the ugly metal brackets have to go but I don't want ugly holes left so I am considering getting a brand new door.
[quoted image]
I think marco has parts for coin doors along with new ones.
1 week later
Quoted from trumpy:while we are mentioning plastics , i'm just finishing up a CPR gold p/f swap( thanks to DCARUZA) and mojor tidy up on my TAF . have these plastics which I cannot find homes for .all have 31-1664- numbers , so they are off this game . no rotisserie playfield swap .
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thy get attached over the ramp you need to make a bracket.
HEP has a post about it in his thread doing a prototype mod.
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:Anyone have any tips for touching up minor wear around the flipper buttons on Addams? Thinking it should be relatively easy since it's black but curious to hear what others have done. Thanks!
satin black krylon
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:After cleaning the newly bought TAF I started playing on it and realized immediately that the kick-out hole outside the Thing box doesn't eject the ball reliably. The coil get the ball almost out of the hole, but then it falls back in again. Sometimes it get the ball out but most often it will fail to eject ~10 times and then the thing have to come and take the ball out instead.
I have cleaned the whole eject assembly and changed sleeve, but didn't help. I noticed the plastic end of the plunger have a weird "waist-line" slightly below the tip, might be it have brushed against the switch arm close by and worn the plastic? I also noticed my coil is an AE-28-1500 while the manual on ipdb.org states it should be an AE-30-2000.
I've done some googling and it appear that others having the same problem with this hole on TAF have changed their "weak" original AE-30-2000 coil with the stronger 27-1200 and get it to work fine, but it kind of feels like a hack. Shouldn't the original coil, or my current (stronger?) AE-28-1500 be enough?
Note: the pics were taken while cleaning, so the black dot on the plunger tip for example is not a hole as it looks like but dirt that I've already removed.
Looking at the pictures right now I also realized the wooden edge where the ball is supposed to go up seem to have a deep dent, meaning maybe the ball gets "stuck" against the small edge and fall back in? Perhaps I should try fill it with some quickwood.
TL;DR
Should I buy a new plunger, a new stronger coil or both?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Plunger is probably not centered or in-line under the ball and the ball slips past giving no power.
Adjust or bend the bracket a bit until it works better. Replace the plunger its also probably worn.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:I'm guessing trying to flow some solder over the missing parts won't work at all
This works surprisingly well
Quoted from Durzel:Worse case scenario as PCBs go I can't see how that would be remotely difficult for someone to fabricate, unless I'm missing something really obvious. It's two wire connectors that have a single trace each that goes to a conductive hole
Send one to these guys:
you can have new ones in a few days super inexpensive.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:Update to the flasher PCB issue:
I tried to flow solder over the worn parts but as I suspected the solder didn't want to cover the parts where the trace were gone from the PCB. In the end I installed the twist-socket in the PCB and by turning it only halfway around it still rests on the intact trace, thus the flasher working.
I have no idea how I were supposed to get the solder to coat the clean PCB surface (where copper trace were gone), don't think its possible tbh. If you have succeeded in this then please tell me what I did wrong.
Anyway, problem solved, although not as nicely as I had hoped.
You did nothing wrong.
If the copper trace is gone, there is nothing for the solder to stick to.
There are copper trace rebuild kits fir this type of problem.
Its basically thin copper that you cut and glue into place.
Turning the base half way and thickening it with solder is what I would have done.
I also have ordered replacement pc boards too.
Quoted from shriver187:hey guys, can you help me out. what would a HUO be worth with 651 plays?
Ha, the 651 plays and HUO raises a lot of red flags...
Maybe it's completely restored?
New playfield?
Lots if questions on this.
Quoted from shriver187:thats why i asked. its going to be at a retail location. it isnt in yet, they just let me know its coming so not sure on condition yet
Hopefully it's a nicely restored game.
1 month later
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Quick question, I was thinking of pulling the play field out and putting it on a rotisserie so I can look at Thing and everything else better than trying to lean over in the cabinet. Doesn't help that I'm short as well. Am I correct in saying you need to pull all the connectors off the mother boards in order t do that?
Label the connectors with a sharpie.
It only takes 35 mins to remove the playfield and mount it on a rotisserie.
Put the cabinet on the floor (legs off).
Much easier it pull the playfield out of the cabinet with it low to the gtound.
Having 2 people really helps if you haven't stripped the topside.
1 week later
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:My bookcase (the blue plastic part) gets loose after a number of plays. It seems like the rotating motion of the bookcase unscrews screw nr 38 (inside the bookcase plastic) from the shaft 34 beneath, as I get more and more "up an down slack" on the shaft that holds it all together. If I tighten screw nr 38 its all ok for a while until the problem gets back again.
Screw 38 have washers with "teeth". Could I have the wrong screw? Looked at Marcos but they didnt have the exact part number so not sure if mine is correct or not.
The lock nut 37 is firm and in position so shouldnt be an issue.
Any suggestions on how to permanently fix this issue? Its annoying to tighten the screw over and over.
Screws with toothy washers are called SEMS.
nuts with toothy washers are called KEPS.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:I know that loctite and similar exist but never use it in fear of stuff getting hard to disassemble in the future. Perhaps I should make an exeption in this case thought.
The screw is inside the bookcase so in case it would get stuck really hard then the whole plastic assembly will be impossible to take apart without breaking it.
Use blue locktite. It comes apart really good, its for small parts.
Use purple locktite if you want even less hold power, like on 2-56 nut plates.
Never use the red its for permanent installation.
1 week later
Quoted from jj44114:Anyone else cut out this diode as suggested?
It's really dumb.
Just get the replacement, fused, magnet board and be done with it.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Chosen_S:Hey fellas, I searched the topic and came up empty. Can I get a nudge please...
The Thing in my game grabs the ball and takes it into its box, and then the ball falls off the hand, but doesn't make it to the subway and I have to lift the playfield for the ball to roll the area where it finds the subway, what do I need to look for to fix the issue?
Is the thing box "ball dented" so that the ball doesn't roll out?
Also there is a ledge in play between the box and subway that causes some problems
Quoted from CLEllison:If you folks think there's a market for a thing board with a relocated header I can do that.
What I've found is that it's more expensive than what I was hoping for/expecting. Probably looking at ~$110 shipped. Does that dissuade anyone? Being cheap, after spending $400 for a new display I personally wouldn't feel inclined to dump another $100.
I think it's a $35-$45 item.
There's got to be a short run manufacturer that can do it cheaply.
1 week later
Quoted from CLEllison:Need some advice.
I went through and rebuilt all the flippers. I mean EVERY part of these are new minus the actual mount. EOS are adjusted properly and I also installed new flipper leafs (also adjusted properly). It seems I'm getting random weak/short flips on both sides. Is this type of behavior indicative of the fliptronics board?
Also, thing is not returning the ball sometimes. I've pulled the metal box and there's no dent/s. Now here's the really weird part. I can hear the coil try to kick. Usually will attempt two kicks and then I have to lift the playfield to and jar it to get the ball to feed. I kind of feel like there's something else going on here. It's obviously making it to the coil switch. Is it possible the ball is somehow getting kicked back into the box or?
Sounds like a low power scenario.
Either wall power is low or something is not up to par on the power section.
Faulty cap or bad bridge?
Maybe a bad thermistor or varistor in the power box, maybe a bad 30 year old line filter?
Check the wall voltage first.
Quoted from CLEllison:Thanks I'll look into those things.
Speaking of THING, I've looked at so many pictures and found the THING flipper is adjusted differently. Some have it at rest against the guide rail while others have the rubbered flipper gapped from the rail. I currently have mine resting on the rail and more often than not when not using the flipper the ball will hit a ball guide and bounce to the outlane. The guides aren't bent and the table is level. Leads me to believe gapping is how it was meant to be. Confirm please.
Following the rail but even with it, not touching it.
Quoted from jeffro01:Just picked up a TAFG and could use some advice on how to best install the pin blades I have for the game? I also have the felt strips that go down the side of the play field but looking at the setup, it looks like I need to fully remove the play field. Am I wrong or is there a tip/trick?
Thanks,
Jeff
Removing the playfield is the best way, but you can still fo it.
There's a few vids on youtube you can watch.
Quoted from CLEllison:The most feasible way to do the decals while the pf is installed is the wet method. Personally I hate using the wet method for graphics but for this setup it does make sense to do so. Take off the protective backing and shoot the hell out of it with Windex. This allows you to slide and re position the artwork around until you get it where you want it. Once applied then using a paper towel/cloth add some pressure to the decal and attempt to squeeze dry the decal.
Yes, all of the above but use rapid tac application fluid.
Windex dries out the glue a bit.
Rapid tac activates the glue for a better bond.
It keeps the edges from curling off down the road better.
Its actually worth the expense in my opinion.
That and the rapid tac adhesive remover. Cant live without them now after using them.
I've actually bought the rapid tac prep too.
It's a great wax and silicone remover that's non toxic.
Quoted from CLEllison:Got around to testing voltages today. The wall outlet voltage is good. Checked 3 prong plug and that's in good shape as well.
TP1 (+12v unregulated): 14.3
TP2 (+5v): 4.93 (surprised I'm not experiencing resets need to investigate that one of these days)
TP3 (+12v regulated): 12.03
I did take a business card and go between all the new contacts for flipper leafs and EOS's and also reseated all cables/connectors. I haven't had any weird flipper stuff happening since but I swear the lower right hand flipper is weaker than the rest. As previously stated everything is brand new on these flippers. EOS is adjusted correctly as well. After doing some research I see it mentioned a few times that the LM338 chip can cause flipper weakness. At this point I'm starting to look that way. Thoughts?
Bad/dirty coil sleeve.
Slight mushrooming in the plunger causing a slight stickiness.
Weak return spring causing flipper bounce, resulting in weak responsiveness.
Sticky cabinet button causing slow response etc..
Quoted from CLEllison:Hi and thank you for your assistance. Everything on your list (including buttons and cabinet leaf switches are 100% brand new.
I should also mention the plunger and/or link is not binding. The flipper also has a small amount of up/down movement (all flipper bats are brand new as well.
This has just got to be board related but where/what?
So you have fliptronics 1
Since you have flipper leaf switches.
If everything is new, I'd look for a connectivity issue.
Switch gap?
Loose contact on leaf?
Anemic contact in the harness?
Weirdness in the fliptronics board?
Lm339 or ba10339 chips go bad.
They are known to cause weakness.
Even corroded fuse holders cause intermittant weakness, though rare.
Quoted from CLEllison:Leafs switches are new, adjusted and the connector is soldered solid. I'll check for any corrosion though. I should mention the flipper was weak before the rebuild as well. I think I'll order a rotten dog fliptronics board. If it doesnt fix it itll be good to have a spare on hand anyway.
Good call.
I replaced my IJ fliptronics board with a rottondog and it made a big difference.
It also had a weak left flipper issue.
Snappier?
Better design?
Fairly inexpensive.
All I know is that it works really good.
Quoted from jeffro01:No worries at all. I've seen some video's but for whatever reason my eyes don't seem to notice a difference so I'll keep looking...
Jeff
Leds flash on and off too hard and fast for a lot of titles.
Slowing down to a gentler fade works really well.
Some people like the harsh electric activity.
Others, who have played many games with incandescent bulbs find it distracting and annoying.
LEDOCD gives you control over LED behavior.
You can dial your LED's in perfectly with it.
Every game that has been upgraded to LED's should have it.
When a new game comes out today, the lighting effects are totally managed.
This management on older titles can really only be done with LEDOCD kit.
Quoted from CLEllison:Reporting back on the weak lower right flipper issue I was seeking help with.
Recap, every flipper and its associated playfield lower playfield part was replaced with all brand new parts and properly adjusted. Original problem still existed.
I just recieved the Rotten Dog fliptronics board. After installation and playing 10 games I'm happy to report the lower right hand flipper is indeed as strong as the rest now.
I hate when people don't report their fix/resolve.[quoted image]
That's what I did in my IJ.
Better, faster and more reliable than a 25 year old board.
And fairly low cost.
Quoted from CLEllison:With all due respect, the "kind" of bulb you get shouldn't matter. The OCD boards do remove ghosting but the real selling point is getting rid of the sharp on/off nature and allowing natural fade. All I can say is DO NOT buy these boards if you have more than one pin. You'll seriously hate LEDs without it.
Absolutely agree.
Every led pin should have it.
1 week later
Quoted from CLEllison:I contacted a mod asking about allowing me to attach a document and the answer was no. However he did mention PDF's are OK, I had no idea. So I just printed the DOC as an 8.5 x 11 PDF and "should" be print ready. Feel free to give it a whirl.[quoted image]
Really nice!
Works perfectly, more people should do this.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Ambro:I read about the LCD OCD boards on this thread, did the research and bit the bullet. Now my TAF lightshow feels like it should. Pricey bit of kit but I would say it is in the top 3 mods to do, maybe even number 1. If you think your LEDs are a bit harsh or things don't look right give this board a go - you won't be disappointed.
In my opinion every game upgraded to LED's should have this level of control.
They are inexpensive for what they do.
Quoted from fswanson24:Hello...maybe a dumb question, but what is the difference (if any) between an International version of TAF and Production game? Based on serial numbers format
The game is the same.
The voltages are different and the power box should be missing the service outlet. The main fuse is 5amps by code in europe.
All easily reversed if the game is reimported. The main fuse is 8 amps in the USA.
Quoted from Skyemont:Would i be stupid trading my Addams Gold #924 for a POTC CE? Even trade.
Yeah trade it.
I've had a couple, I'm over it.
1 week later
Quoted from harig:Use loctite in the Screw tread
Blue loctite, or any blue thread locker. Permatex etc.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:MS 8-32 x 5/8 P-PH-S-Ny"
8-32x5/8" Philip's pan-head stainless with loctite.
3 weeks later
Quoted from cconway84:Excited to finally join the club! Found a local machine in terrific shape. Playfield tear down for cleaning / metal polishing and rebuilt with a color dmd, comet leds, titan rubber, new bookshelf, electric chair and thing kicker scoops. Trim is a beautiful antique gold.
Next up will be a ocd led board.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I do like the antique gold!
1 week later
Quoted from SeaLawyer:I was just thinking this last night as I was under my TAF playfield. Can this be done?? Same issue for T2. Annoying!!
I think Chris st HEP has done it a few times.
2 weeks later
Quoted from drummermike:Common issue with the 5V power supply. Kahr board will "fix". Or A new modern design power board like Rotten Dog gets rid of the issue.
I have Kahr daughter boards in 2 of my Bally pins. I have a Rotten Dog in 2. Problem solved.
Yep, other than rebuilding all the boards with new caps, chips and pins on 30 year old games.
This is a good solution if you want to play today and not have the game broken all the time.
Quoted from NPO:And then when it starts resetting even with the Kahr board you can do it right - by properly diagnosing it and fixing the problem.
Had a Kahr board in mine and it still reset. Fixed it the right way and haven't looked back.
Yep, that's what I do.
2 weeks later
Quoted from CLEllison:How much money do you have into that and how long is it going to take to pay it off? You're awesome for doing this, but no way in hell would I restore a TAF to that degree and put it on route. That title even if in pretty rough shape still commands coin if it plays well.
Lol
Fix 'em up, tear them down!
Rinse, repeat.
In the mean time its all about how they play.
Modern restorations play way better than brand new games ever did!
Well worth $1-$1.5 a game.
2 weeks later
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Question about the metal box thing's hand is in relation to the other box that houses the VUK. On mine, the two boxes are separate and there is a minor gap between them that the ball has to travel across. Sometimes, when thing takes the ball, the ball gets stuck between the gap. I had to increase the playfield angle to around 6.7-7.0 degrees to prevent this, sometimes it still hangs up but with a forward nudge the ball usually then goes into the VUK and sends the ball to the swamp. Is there supposed to be anything in between these two components to prevent this or are they installed incorrectly? I do not see any other screw holes in the plywood suggesting the boxes were changed and mismounted.
Thank you,
Hammer out any ball dents in the box. It has to be really flat inside.
2 weeks later
Quoted from MintIndeed:We recently had a weird thing happen - we leveled our machine, with a play field tilt of 6.5, and the ball started getting stuck behind the Thing ramp (middle ramp). Anyone else run into this? How did you fix it?
We tried sticking a strip of foam in there (attached to the left "wall" and "floor", so that it's a little curved - sorry, away from my machine right now so I can't take a picture, but it doesn't work anyway), but that doesn't help. We're considering trying to set the left of the machine a little higher so that the ball will roll down more easily, or putting in a small wedge.
Level using the playfield itself with glass off.
1 week later
Quoted from dmesserly:Just picked up an Addams. One issue is that the thing works fine but makes some noise in the gearing or motor when activated. Is there recommending servicing or anything to do to get rid of the noise?
Thanks,
Dave
Pull apart the motor/gearbox and service it, or replace it.
Quoted from jdoz2:After a very long pause, I’m starting back on my Addams restore. I just made a big parts order, but didn’t see any ramp flaps available.
Does anyone know where I could pick some up? Pinbits looked to be out of stock. I’m only really needing the ones attached to the metal thing ramp, and the one in the shooter lane[quoted image]
cut your own with scissors, pinrestore.com
1 month later
Quoted from oradke:Hi all! I have a problem with my TAF that I might need your help solving. After a THING lock, the machine occasionally wouldn't serve the next ball. Sometimes it is ejected into the shooter lane with a delay, sometimes not at all. I belive hitting the buttons repeatedly or punchign the rod helps, but it's not reproducable.
Trouble shooting so far:
- Swamp trough switches are fine (checked by throwing balls into the swamp while in test menu)
- after thing grabs the ball, I hear the knocks, then I see the ball roll through the swamp.
- After a direct swamp hit, balls are served without a hitch.
What am I missing? Is there another switch between THING and swamp?
Oliver
Sounds like a ball is hanging on a switch or a ledge.
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Hi all, I need help with a setting/feature that I can’t seem to turn off. Something happened that reset the game and erased the high scores about a little over a month ago. It’s been working fine now, thing is dialing himself back in, but when a game ends the game asks if we want to buy an extra ball??? I went into the settings and buy in is turned off, so wondering if it’s a different setting. Anyone know how to turn this feature off?
Did you check the battery holder on the CPU board? Do you still have batteries?
Most are corroded and the contacts are all cracked off.
Quoted from Trooper11040:So two questions for the group! I’m a new TAF owner. Putting the game together, I found this
Metal plate in the cab. Not sure where it goes to. Owner thinks it May have been an extra when I shopped. Says it was there when he bought it.
Second is whoever owner in their prior life decided to install these disgusting Mylar patches near the flippers. Any way to remove them safely without damage to the mansion?
Thanks!!![quoted image][quoted image]
Freeze spray method for removing mylar works best. However there is always some slight risk.
Remove residual glue with rapid-tac adhesive remover.
Your inserts are sinking a little, so I would just leave the mylar until the playfield gets restored. Or work on it later if the mylar starts lifting or bubbling.
Quoted from Trooper11040:there is a little lift on the right side...kinda why i want them both off
If you must...
There are a couple vids on this.
Freeze spray, plastic razor blade.
Use zero scraping. the flex of the mylar while lifting/pulsing the spray is all you need.
Spray, wait a few seconds, spritz a little at a time until the temp is -40 degrees.
It will "plink" off if you do it right. You are separating the mylar from the glue.
No pulling, no scraping, nothing....
Its fascinating and easy when you get a feel for it.
Good luck.
1 week later
Quoted from Nugilo92:I’m thinking of touching up my playfield with one shot. Does anyone have a color list for matching original colors? Or do you just have to get a bunch and try them? They are expensive, and I only have two pinball machines and won’t be getting more (and one is brand new) so it would be nice to not waste money on a bunch of paints I’ll never use.
Unfortunately due to color fade and variations in manufacture, there are no "set" colors.
A 10 pack of creatix paints and some 4" mylar or acrylic sheets to mix and match on, directly over the area, is the only real way.
Some people have taken the playfield to home depot or lowes and had the computer analyze the color to order paint with close results.
Matching paint is art more than science.
perfect restoration requires painting all of the same color over the entire playfield with an airbrush.
Quoted from Trooper11040:The Swamp kickout will be the death of me...I've checked EVERYTHING possible and no matter what, the ball will still shoot STDM...The welds are good in the kickout, the coil is correct, the sleeve is correct...ive tried to adjust everything with 0 luck...anyone have any advice? I may just drop 90 bucks on a new scoop bracket from Marco if i have to...
Elongate the metal mounting holes. Turn it towards the flipper.
Quoted from PAR:Looking suggestions on a method to repair this, also what caused it?
Thanks![quoted image]
Tape off the area. frisket is ok for this.
carve out the lifted clear with an exacto knife.
re-draw the keyline with oil based sharpie paint marker.
Level the playfield.
Eyedropper some 2PAC to fill the area. peel of the frisket while wet.
Sand it flush with mylar paper glued to a teflon block, buff it off. wax it.
Its not as hard as it seems. Just be super careful when sanding and buffing. Take your time.
4 weeks later
Quoted from MintIndeed:I just got my coin door and shooter housing refinished from Chris @ pinballplating.com / Hot Rod Arcade, along with a full set of gloss black hardware (rails, lockdown bar, legs, hinges). Couldn't be happier - before & after pictures attached!
We decided to get the existing coin door refinished rather than a new one, since this has the original layout (single return slot, wide spaced coin inserts, and vintage dents).
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great!
2 weeks later
Quoted from bobnatlanta:I've owned mine for nearly eight years. Absolutely filthy, beater re-import that I picked up after pleading on RGP for an Addams project. 10 hour round trip later, I had my non-working prize. It was so dirty, I thought the subway ramp was made of black plastic. Bookcase was held together with glue and Popsicle sticks, and Fester and Swamp metal were falling apart. Many replacement parts and a lot of board work, I think about 6 months later, I played my first game on it. In the intervening years, I've gotten a new main ramp, added Uncle Lester and Thing box stickers, done a PF swap and changed to LEDs. There was just one other issue that drove me crazy, but no one else (besides the other anal pinheads who've been in my gameroom) even noticed. Today's the day it got fixed...
[quoted image]
I do like the ball proof armored sign!
Quoted from Adib:Just curious how much a fully restored addams family would get in the states??
$8500-$9500 depending on the level of restore.
HEP games go for a bit more.
Quoted from drummermike:My left outlane special is ghosting during game play with a non-ghosting led. I tried another ng led and the same ghosting is occurring. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
Are you using the LEDOCD board?
If so, lowering the brightness 10%
Can be effective.
Quoted from drummermike:No extra boards. All led in the pin. The special is the only one that ghosts.
Not a big deal. All my other pins are total led and they have no issues. Lucky!
Its not about ghosting per se, but thats a part of it.
I really like the way the LEDOCD ramps all the inserts up and down very smoothly on the playfield.
Its like night and day.
No more harsh flickering
After installing one on my DW, and seeing how dramatic the change was, im putiing LEDOCD on all my wpc games.
No, im not selling them lol.
But they sure are nice.
Quoted from drummermike:What is the total cost and is it difficult to install?
About $140
Super easy to install.
Took me about 15 mins.
No adjustments are necessary as the default settings are really close, but you can fiddle with it if you want with the software off his site.
Quoted from delt31:I looked and I know others swear by this thing but on this game in particular I couldn't see a difference (or at least worthwhile). Def wasn't worth it to me but glad others can see it!
Its the difference between instant on/off leds and smooth ramping up and down.
Brightness and color is unaffected.
Incandescents ramp and down smoothly.
During a game while watching the ball its hard to see anything but the ball.
I find that with LEDOCD the harshness of LEDs is reduced and reduces eye fatigue.
Attract mode is vastly improved.
On some games that utilize GI dimming in modes.
GIOCD is really nice too.
That said however, regular leds work better than the non-ghoting ones.
Non ghosting leds dont dim as good as standard ones.
Its possible that the game you looked at had non-ghosting leds in it.
The effect is less dramatic.
But its still there.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:non-ghosting LEDs basically cancel out the effects of the board - and there's 2 parts to the settings. You install the board, but the base settings are generic for all games, and work pretty well, but if you spend some time on your specific machine, you can get some very noticeable changes. It's fairly dramatic on certain machines. Twilight Zone and TAF for example. Monster bash? don't even bother. The inserts change so fast in attract mode it barely has any effect.
I had to adjust the delay setting just a little to fix the fast flashing of a couple inserts.
It worked very well.
Quoted from Lostcause:I have read this and have a few of these boards, I have non ghosting leds in my FT and the OCD board still works fine, makes a big difference. FT looks terrible without it.
My CV GI is non ghosting and ok too with GIOCD. I was glad because I didn’t want to start swopping the leds out.
Maybe it’s a brand thing but if adding leds best to get the cheaper standard leds with the board for the full effect.
Need to get the GIOCD for my TAF one day.
Will have to mess with the settings as mine are all on generic still.
Settings arent too bad to adjust.
Fast flashing? maybe adjust the delay.
Slight ghosting? maybe adjust the max brightness down a bit.
2 months later
Quoted from glpinball:Hi all, I picked up a TAF a couple weeks ago and I have a question regarding the playfield protector. I ordered one and it came in but as I was examining the playfield I noticed some transparent material (Mylar?) on the playfield in a couple wear spots. Is this an add on to the original, will putting a playfield protector on over this be ok? I am including a couple pictures to show what I mean. It's fairly subtle/low profile so maybe it would be ok but I have never put on a protector before so I just don't know. Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]
If you are installing a full playfield Makrolon protector you can remove all of the Mylar.
I would just freeze spray the mylar off and clean up the glue residue with rapid-tac adhesive remover.
Wipe down with naptha and apply a coat of wax.
This would be sufficient to protect the playfield from the protector itself.
1 week later
Quoted from Mikonos:All "The Addams Family Pinball Plastics" (BALLY) in restoration by Zona Arcade & Mikonos.
https://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/capturas/The%20Addams%20Family%20Pinball%20Plastics.%20In%20restoration%20Mikonos2.jpg[quoted image]
Are you making these out of pet-g? Originals are not very durable.
I think the hard part is accurate colors that look right with the lights shining thru.
1 week later
Quoted from MintIndeed:Yep just like pinballreno said.
Here's a simple video showing the freeze spray method of removing mylar:
Tho you have to be a bit careful which adhesive remover you use (apparently some can remove the coating or paint from the playfield). Personally, I use the flour-and-naphtha method (rub a light dusting of flour over the remaining adhesive, put on some naphtha (IPA apparently also works but I have and use naphtha), and rub. Basically like this video here but I wear nitrile gloves, and I use tiny bowls with flour and naphtha - use my "dry" hand to grab a little flour and dust/rub it in, use my "wet" hand and dip my fingers in the naphtha bowl and then rub; repeat until it looks clean, let the naphtha dry and dust on a little flour to see if there are any spots where the adhesive wasn't fully removed. Use a small handheld vac with soft brush end to vacuum up the flour).
Thats a terrible video.
Done properly there is no pulling, no stressing the clear over inserts.
Its all about temperature control.
Light sprits of spray continuously to keep it very cold etc.
I use rapid-tac adhesive remover.
Its non-toxic and removes mylar adhesive in seconds.
Always works perfectly.
No flour, no mess, smells like oranges.
I just used it to remove old tape off a translite.
It didn't remove the white background like almost everything else does.
Quoted from mjenison:I've removed two mylars in my time.
One was a Funhouse playfield mylar, using various levels of chemicals until found one strong enough to break down the mylar adheasive and not damage the artwork. Slow, but worked, and easy to control the amount and placement solvent.
Second was a Roadshow playfield using freeze spray method. Hard to tell if temperature is correct, to control the spray, and see if its working. Pulled up the clear over large inserts multiple times.
I would never recommend the freeze spray method, because of the very fact it's not an exact science, you don't know if the glue will freeze approriately, and for the same reason I hand polish ramps instead of flame polish them.
Risk vs reward, I would recommend the slower, safer method.
I have done many.
Never pull on the mylar.
It will release if you have the temperature right.
You don't have to pull at all.
The mylar will actually release itself with zero pressure.
I use a plastic razor blade and cut off excess as i go.
Total time, 5 mins.
Done right its a breeze.
But i agree, it does take a "feel" for it.
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:If your freeze spray method is pulling on the art, then it's not cold enough. I have done about 20 or so via this method and aside for the hassle of removing the leftover adhesive residue, it's a snap and has never once caused damage.
For left over adhesive i will only use rapid-tac adhesive remover.
Its glorious.
10 min clean up.
1 week later
Quoted from jj44114:I don’t think those are available anywhere
Just do the whole thing with sunlight frosted 2smd.
Change a couple here and there if wanted
Quoted from Skyemont:Trying to decide what mods I can do to make her look better.
[quoted image]
LEDOCD?
GIOCD?
Enable dimming in the service menu?
2 weeks later
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Okay Addams Group
Need your help
This is my 5th Addams I’ve owned since 2004 and it’s a childhood favorite of mine
Now with that there comes that moment when I walk away from it and sell it .. move to the next pin .. you know that moment
THEN months - years later I “re discover” the wow factor of The Addams Family from either a show game played or a buddy has one Etc
and I’m reborn hunting down yet another Addams and again the price value has again gone up
There getting harder to find as your all aware and don’t want to hunt another down next year at yet again a price increase
Any ideas to help it’s keeper appeal ??
Already have her pretty cut throat on the settings and what not
Being honest and want to keep her bolted down but fear I’ll stop wanting the play
I have seen new options out there
Shaker Motor and a new sound board
Are these really worthy or just a small notch in the belt of wow appeal
Color Dmd in Addams really doesn’t seem needed to me anyways, as it was the beginning of that Pixel technology and the clips are nothing compared to today
And yes that shooter rod I have owned over the years and reinstall on every joining Addams
Any advice from owners and fans of a true Pat Lawlor Classic
[quoted image][quoted image]
Put condoms over those bare LEDS.
Get the colorDMD LED version.
Get the pinsound and the motion control shaker. Get a few different sound mixes going to change it up once in awhile, or make a custom mix.
Replace the speakers with better ones, its a slightly better sound.
Quoted from MintIndeed:PinSound PLUS + Motion Control (shaker)
Alternatively there's the Pinshaker which is less expensive overall (does not require replacing the sound board like the PinSound does); it triggers on fewer things (basically it can trigger on any Solenoid activation; kickers, magnets, etc - so quite a lot, it's what I use)
I've tried ColorDMD's LED and LCD versions, and prefer the LCD version (looks more like the original DMD but in colour, and is MUCH easier to install and doesn't require modifying or replacing the THING light board). Here's the ColorDMD LCD for TAF.
I also highly recommend both an LED OCD and G.I. OCD board. You can see a side-by-side here and my take on them here.
You must mean the LED version?
1 week later
Quoted from thegarse:I’m all for nostalgia but this code version is probably the buggiest of all versions 1992 L1.
[quoted image]
definitely upgrade...
2 months later
Quoted from gac:There are special "wing nut" type bolts made for this but you can certainly use a leg bolt as the thread size is the same. I would suggest using a large washer as well if you decide to use a leg bolt. Pics of bolts commonly used below.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Leg bolts are not exactly the same but close enough in a pinch.
3/8 x 16 x 2 1/4" to make room for washers. Longer that that, the shank may be too long and not tighten properly. 2 1/2" length would also work, the leg bolts are 2 1/2" long but with a big 5/8" acorn head on them.
Special bally wing bolts are 2" long. Add 1/4" for adding a fender washer if you use regular bolts.
So, a 2 1/4" length would be ideal with an added fender washer.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-2-backbox-wing-bolt.html
Im using a lot of 2 3/4" extended leg bolts right now to make up for added leg protector width. Especially with the mantis leg protectors.
Quoted from pfinny:Does anyone know where to source the IDC sockets for the #555 bulbs in the back board behind the translite ?
Seems the suppliers that used to stock them no longer have any.
Been not available for quite some time.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8818
Its actually about time for them to be made again.
HEP (Chris Hutchens) is just using regular old-school early bally 70's or 80's insert sockets for now, as even he cant source them.
The ones that have the double tabs for stapling to the insert panel are fine in a pinch and work very well if you are doing a restoration or repairing a broken plasic IDC one.
You can use screws to hold them on if you dont want to staple them.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5000-00 or anything that's long enough.
Use bayonet base LEDS.
Or these for wedge base:
1 month later
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:The last cabinet I got from them was a TAF. No pics but you will not be disappointed.
Paul makes them as close to original as you can get. No issues whatsoever and great quality!
I have to second this!
Paul makes a beautiful cabinet!
I just put one on my Funhouse resto and its perfect, way better than the original cabinet.
Just beautiful workmanship.
Plus I like the way you can order a bare cabinet or have them do it all for you as a "turn key" solution.
Quoted from jake35:I know this is a stupid question, but how do I remove the flasher housing from the wireform? I'm replacing it with one that's freshly plated.
[quoted image]
Drill out the rivets, re-rivet it.
Quoted from cconway84:Does the bare cab come assembled or just as sides, front, floor, etc that need put together? What does shipping run?
Call Paul at virtua-pin, hes great!
1 month later
Quoted from Tlamb:Need to take better pictures but here is how it turned out. Pics don’t do it justice. It was a really fun project. Time for a break though, three restore projects over the last 6 months is enough!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
What cabinet decals did you use?
3 weeks later
Quoted from LTG:Not sure what you got. I have these in my game - https://www.pinballlife.com/fuse-kit-for-the-addams-family-the-power-magnets.html
LTG : )
I think he might have the weebly board, 3rd up from the bottom of the page here:
https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html
Or one like it.
pinside post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/48037
5 months later
Quoted from anx10us:Thanks for the quick response, I'm after a simple idiot proof replacement, look to me like the battery is soldered in, I did wonder whether it was held in at both ends, but it doesn't move if I exert limited force, I was hoping for a simple swapout.
Next question if I may, if I buy a remote AA battery holder, it comes with 2 wires, black and red, I'm assuming I'd need to cut the existing 'green' battery out, remove the cable at the bottom (covered in an earth sheath) and then wire in the remote holder.
Would I be right in assuming that I can just connect the remote holder to the two connections that the green battery made ?
Also found the battery on aliexpress - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32786673103.html?dp=www.otmar.boutique&cv=duckduckgo.com&aff_fcid=d641b6f8f0ef47d3af063695689ece6d-1632840663136-00280-_pQrUVln&aff_fsk=_pQrUVln&aff_platform=api-new-link-generate&sk=_pQrUVln&aff_trace_key=d641b6f8f0ef47d3af063695689ece6d-1632840663136-00280-_pQrUVln&terminal_id=9b2ae0fb5c984935bf0057936b56eb57
[quoted image]
I really like the franks coin battety board. Its pretty slick and doesnt do any damage at all. But you have to open tbe backbox to change the battery every 3 years or so.
If you go with the remote battery setup, you can put longer wires and run it all the way up to the front of the game for easy access.
This is a really nice option to do. It also lasts years.
Don't remove the lower wire jumper its supposed to be there for this type of installation.
The black wire goes to the minus of where your battery is soldered.
The red wire goes to the plus side.
You can solder the wires after you remove the battery, or cut the old battery out but leave the tabs of the battery in place. Then alligator clip the new holder in or solder wires to the old tabs.
Personally for durability it should be soldered.
But it will work either way.
In all cases the old battery must be removed.
Quoted from anx10us:Thanks for the help with the battery, now up and running and saving High Scores ansd Settings, apologies if I appear to be turning this into a trouble shooting thread, if I should be asking elsewhere or starting a new thread please let me know ?
My next issue is that the game has been working fine and now all of a sudden I have Pinball Missing when I try to start a game, all three balls are in the machine, no less, no more.
Ive tried switching off and on again to no avail, looking under the playfield it looks like there are four micro switches, three for the balls and a forth for the outhole ?
Checking the switches which according to the matrix are 15, 16, 17 and 18 I get nothing when open or closed, as far as I can tell all other switches seem to be working, solenoid test shows all solenoids firing ..
I assume this means I have a cold joint or a loose connection somewhere in the chain ?
Solenoids on the outhole and ball release both work and 'sound' strong ..
I wonder if someone could point me in the right troubleshooting direction ?
One other piece of informaton, when I press the Start button, Pinball Missing pops up and then the machine looks for the balls by firing the solenoids, moving thing hand etc, at this point should I expect one of the balls to be ejected intothe shooter lane ? This doesn't happen ...
Check the trough switches.
1 month later
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:It will go from looking perfect to that
After a few minutes
replace it with colorDMD.
get the LED version for the retro look.
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:What kind of serial number decal comes on the back of 92 TAF?
Gray or white one?
Thanks[quoted image][quoted image]
Gray on the back.
The white one goes inside on the right side above the power box or under the shooter rod
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Never mind. I was able to zoom in. Its the FCC stuff.
Thanks
Just get the shop out set from treasure cove?
Quoted from dmacy:I’m seeing the same grey on both inside and outside on the TAF I’m working on now. Mine was too. I believe white as Gold or later runs?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Sounds right.
1 week later
Quoted from thewool:Joining the club very soon!!
The stock GI appears to be very dark. Has anyone upgraded just the GI (not the inserts) to warm LEDs? (I'm not a fan of cool white).
Sunlight works very well.
Quoted from maur:I have an annoying problem with my AF. The bookcase moves very slowly into position. It doesn't happen all the time. I thought it was a loose connection somewhere but everything checks out fine. Any suggestions?
Maurizio
blown motor/gearbox
1 week later
Quoted from WarriorPin:Please help with a Thing Hand issue. The motor works fine. Here’s what happens:
1) After a few games, the Thing Hand starts to respond slower than normal. Example - the ball goes into the Thing hole and the hand comes out like 5 seconds later.
2) After a while, the Thing Hand will not come out when the ball goes in the Thing hole. However, when the machine looks for the missing ball, the Thing Hand does come out.
At this point, I run the Thing Hand test, no movement.
The only thing that seems to fix is to disconnect/reconnect the two pin connector leading to the Thing motor. The fix lasts for 5-10 games.
Weird…. I think I have reseated all of the appropriate connectors. Any ideas?
Check for cracked solder joints on the pins or loose wires on the motor board connector..
Its possible that the gearbox needs to be reconditioned (cleaned and greased) or replaced, as well as the motor.
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Trying to locate licensed apron decals for Addams
Thanks
https://www.treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/addams-family/addams-family.htm
Quoted from EvanDickson:What's the deal with the little bugs plastics? In my case, they're all on the pops, but I've looked at a lot of addams's online dang they seem to always be in different places. Is there a "correct" placement? Or is the idea to just stick them wherever?[quoted image]
Some are to correct ball hangs, others you can put anywhere you like.
There is some randomness to them.
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:The time has come
“Click Click”
CPR Gold
[quoted image]
Looks great, I usually have to reclear the CPR playfields.
If the inserts edges arent shrunken in you should be good to go.
Shine a light from underneath to check the keylines. Its easy to touch them up if needed, if you are going to re-clear it.
CPR playfields arent known for their mirror finishes as evident in the pics.
Looks like it could use a couple coats of clear and then a sand/buff it down, paying attention to the insert edges.
The extra clear would also fill in the grain showing.
You can either leave it alone, or fix it before you start the swap.
Its a nice playfield either way.
Just depends on the level of restoration.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:I have a CPR Silver ready for a PF swap. However I will need to do a little touchup on it before the swap. And definitely will need to be cleared again. Not super smooth and clear has been a little absorbed.
In a pinch the sprayMax 2k is excellent for a quick 2 or 3 coats after light touchups.
It works really good and yields a professional result.
Quoted from WarriorPin:I get the cracked solder joints or loose wires as an issue. The motor runs fine when it has a solid connection - why suggest the gearbox or motor?
Its because its 30 years old and depending on the use, could need maintenance.
2 weeks later
Quoted from jackd104:Looking for advice on replacing my wpc89 power driver board in TAF. It’s had a rough life and needs repairs every year or two. Thinking of a new aftermarket board. Is rottendog pretty much the go to option or is there anything else to consider? I’ve always had original boards so this this new territory for me. Also which distributor is good to work with? I see it's available at Games We Play, Pinball Life, and The Pinball Wizard out of Utah. Thanks in advance for advice/opinions.
I would stick with the original and just send it out for repair and bullet proofing.
Chris Hibler is who I send my boards to.
PM him or email him.
Quoted from jackd104:I appreciate the advice, can you elaborate on your rationale? Just curious. I've been doing that and about every 1-2 years need to send it for repairs, I've done than probably 6 times and it's getting tiresome. I'm thinking of a new board to have more reliability and I will repair and keep the original as a backup probably.
Have Chris "bullet proof" it. Tell him your concerns and he will do a stress test on it.
Quoted from TronGuy:Hello Addams family owners. Unfortunately I am not one.
Anyway a friend of mine is an owner and doesn't work on machines at all.
I went over to check out a kickout problem earlier today. I think we actually fixed it by just leveling the machine, but.........there is at least 1 coil that could be replaced. (the one below the flippers)
He wants me to get some coils and have them on hand , he would like to have them in hand in 4 or 5 days. Where do you guys recommend me buying up a handful of coils that has a history of shipping quickly? (if anyone)
edit: I would appreciate any links or part numbers, that someone thinks is appropriate. I assume he will want at a minimum the coil that sits below the 2 flippers. And probably a couple of flipper coils to have as backups, and maybe the other coils.
thank you
tron guy
I would read the manual for part numbers. Having someone read them off a game can be a gamble, lol.
Get it here:
https://www.ipdb.org/files/20/Bally_1992_The_Addams_Family_Manual.pdf
As far as shipping you can get overnight from marcospecialties.com or pinballlife.com, if you want to pay for it.
Quoted from thewool:Hey thanks for that link! Never heard of his stuff before...
From your experience is if worth replacing any of the other metal housings or do the orders tend to last a bit longer.
Mantis parts are 2 or 3 times stronger than factory OEM.
I tend to just buy all tgat i need.
Quoted from EvanDickson:Ok thanks all! I'll transfer these, or replace if they get destroyed during removal.
New question:
There's a post to the left of the two bottom pops. Spec days I should use the yellow tapered rubber with a nylon spacer. My Addams had just a black sleeve, and honestly the tapered yellow would get squished and deformed if I installed it. Does anyone know if there's a specific reason the tapered is called for? Sleeve looks to make more sense.[quoted image]
Thats the right place for it.
Quoted from gac:Is special trim needed to install these CPR backglasses or does the existing trim on the original glass/translite fit/transfer to the backglass?
The original translite trim doesnt work very well.
Use williams system 11 trim.
I did a fairly comprehensive write up on this issue, see post #21:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-backglass-trim
Trim:
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=System%2011%20trim
Tape:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-900-0006-00
Quoted from Concretehardt:Are these the correct replacement LED bulbs for behind the backglass? I wasn’t sure if the IJ & TAF took the same bulbs in the back box And I don’t have my TAF yet? Also any recommendations for color to go behind the mirror back glass.. Cool white or warm white?
[quoted image]
I used comet 1 or 2 smd sunlight frosted
Quoted from lhammer610:I am sure this is answered elsewhere (I did several searches), but here I go:
I am doing a playfield transfer for TAF. I find the playfield to be dark when playing and I want to brighten it up. I do not want to do the side lighting (PinStadium). I am planning on doing a a LED strip above the playfield in the back of the cabinet.
What are the best ways to brighten it up, tastefully? I don't want a modern Stern look.
I was thinking of wiring in additional flood lamps to the GI and mounting them above the playfield. I only need a post with a screw, plus access to the GI to add those.
As to the GI lights under the playfield at the scoop and the swamp, I have seen many photos above the playfield and they look good. Any particular location to install them?
Add 4 spotlights.
Use purple LEDs. Its really nice.
Quoted from EvanDickson:How do these work? Are they just added inline with existing gi? And where do you place them?
Anyone got a pic of spotlights in their TAF?
They go on the slings and anwhere you want them.
You need the spotlights and some hex spacers.
Quoted from pinballinreno:They go on the slings and anwhere you want them.
You need the spotlights and some hex spacers.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/spotlight-kit
You can make your own cheaper.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:While purple will give the playfield an interesting hue, you may not want it looking like outer space.
I'd stick with whatever color you have in your GI.
I thoght the same.
But it really doesnt make anything purple, it enhances the existing and adds contrast.
Purple did amazing things to my WOZ as far as highlighting detail.
Adding purple spots blends into the existing without making anything actually purple lol.
Quoted from lhammer610:Would you please post a photo of where you positioned and aimed them?
Not too certain about the purple as I have never been a fan of color GIs. But in spotlights on TAF that might work. I will try them.
These are what I have used in the past.
https://www.pinballlife.com/playfield-accent-spotlight-assembly.htmlNot sure what you mean here. Do you have an idea of the length?
https://www.pinballlife.com/metal-hex-spacers-14-78-6-32-thread-femalefemale.htmlI volunteer at a pinball museum as a tech. We got in a pin that had star posts lights in them. Kept shorting out and blowing the GI fuse. It took us a while to find them. I am going to try that on TAF, but would like to know if anyone else has had issues?
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=abl_SP
Getting a set of these these is what I did and clone them :
Quoted from radium:Just install lithium batteries in your regular AA battery holder and skip all of this.
I like the "Franks coin battery mod" a lot.
Coin batteries last forever and are super cheap from Amazon, and last years.
I have never seen one leak in 25 years of electronics and computer repair.
Though I guess anything is possible.
That said, NVRAM will truly last forever and you will NEVER think about batteries again.
Quoted from Shredder565:Ahh, THAT is why others have said the cap was missing, but I don' t recall EVER having seen one on the machines in the field. so I was confused by that.
OK, the next step is the Bally Kicker. That's it for switches for now. But focusing on the switches and the remaining 24 or so lower playfield items I'm missing.[quoted image]
The grey rubber cap is added to protect the diode (as Lloyd suggesred), the black clip secures the cap to keep it from falling off.
You see it on Doctor Who, TZ, Funhouse and several other games.
It also gives it a more finished look.
You don't have to install it if you dont want too.
20220111_092653 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Shredder565:that it does! thank you. all except the clip piece. can't tell where it goes, except obviously by the screws.
[quoted image]
The switch actuating lever looks way too long, it will have to trimmed back.
It should end up just before the mounting screw head so that you can install the mounting screws.
Quoted from Shredder565:Hmm, I wasn't sure if I should cut it or not, since it would seem they sent it longer for a reason, but I'll trim it down a bit.
This is how I think the Kicker should go. But not sure and not sure where the rubber goes.[quoted image]
Lol. No, the long arm is incorrect.
Marco often sends parts that will work but need tweaking.
Your knocker is assembled wrong.
Heres a pic of one on my bench.
Its from a different game, but they are all similar:
20220111_101510 (resized).jpg
The coil itself is backwards.
The sleeve goes thru the bracket and centers the spring, which goes on the other side of it. It touches the big end of the plunger.
The rubber goes on the mounting bracket as a silencer for the big end of the plunger.
Take a look in the manual. See if there's a good picture.
Someone here will post one.
Quoted from Shredder565:that it does. except for the one plunger part on one, and the rubber part on both. still can't quite clearly see where that goes. but it does help
two more almost done![quoted image]
Coil sleeve is missing on the one on the left.
Coil sleeve is incorrectly installed on the one on the right. It must go inside the metal bracket to keep it from falling out.
The grommet goes into the hole in the mounting bracket under the big end of the knocker plunger as well as the one on the left.
20220111_115253 (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:that it does. except for the one plunger part on one, and the rubber part on both. still can't quite clearly see where that goes. but it does help
two more almost done![quoted image]
It looks like you have the wrong coil sleeve in the knocker assembly.
The plastic of the sleeve should stick out from both sides. The metal bracket holds it together.
The short side goes to the spring side.
In the picture here the coil sleeve is black.
20220111_115731 (resized).jpg20220111_115739 (resized).jpg
Quoted from radium:Shredder565
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
A-14107
[quoted image]
Nice job! Good pic!
Reading the manual is important.
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, that was where I THOUGHT it should go, but couldn't for the life of me figure out how to get it in that s mall hole. I finally found you could squeeze it through without damaging it, so that's what I did.
And I placed them sideways because that's how it sort of looked in the picture on the bag. guess was wrong on that one.
So, apart from that extra tubing, assuming I understood everything properly, does this look correct? I feel like i might still be mis understanding something.
[quoted image]
Those look correct!
You often get extra stuff for different applications from Marco.
Like too long of a switch actuator, etc.
The manual will have the correct orientation.
Quoted from Shredder565:how d oes this look? something is undoubtedly wrong
[quoted image]
Looks like incorrect coil sleeve or installed backwards on the knockoff assembly
2 weeks later
Quoted from Thestrangebrewer:BALL TROUGH ISSUES WITH THE ADDAMS FAMILY... ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED
Aloha,
I run a small brewpub on Kauai and have the only public machines on the island. Being in the middle of the pacific ocean repair tech's aren't very readily available, so I do most of the repair work myself. If anyone can help me with the following issues, I'd appreciate it...I'll buy you some beers when you make it out here...
The problem I'm having is:
The balls pile up at the entrance to the ball trough and don't move forward from there. All 4 trough switches are working (they show up on the matrix when I do switch tests).
It seems the problem is with the solenoids.
Beginning with #4, Ball Release. It doesn't operate when I run the test.
#5, Out Hole
#6, Thing Magnet also don't run during the solenoid tests.
Oddly enough, #7, Thing Kick out works,
#8 Lockup Kick out does not work.
Everything else seems to be working fine.
Any input would be appreciated.
Thank you[quoted image]
Check the fuses with an ohmmeter, see if they blow immediately on startup.
Are all the problems on the same circuit?
Test the switches.
Check for loose wires or broken diodes.
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:I still find it a challenge when it’s not your personal machine and when you drop a quarter in it it’s that height of adrenaline to do your best !!
I’ve played many Addams in the wild - Of course not as many as they used to be
Plus we got to keep the operators earning lol
I have no problem dumping quarters at a barcade or pinball location.
Its awsome to play at an arcade, what a rush!
Quoted from radium:All the flipper switches have connectivity up to the fliptronics board
Blown fuse? Proper voltage at the fuse holder/switch/flipper?
Quoted from WarriorPin:Need your help, my TAF has an unknown power issue. 3 out of four 4 times it powers on and plays awesome for hours at end. One out of four times it has power issues after a few hours - the DMD goes mostly blank, all lights turn off. When it does this, I have to power it off for multiple hours (usually over night) and then it's fine again. Ideas on what is happening?
Probably time to rebuild the power supply section of the driver board.
Also its good when troubleshooting to take note of the power at the wall outlet.
a simple plug in voltage display off of Amazon is helpful, I use mine all the time.
Quoted from radium:Unfortunately it seemed to be a loose cable somewhere. Game needs all new ribbons anyway.
Might be a loose or flakey IDC connection.
I would look there first, sometimes those old connections just hang by a thread. The IDC not only cuts the insulation, but sometimes cuts the wire too.
Or just start replacing those old IDC's with trifurcons just as a matter of good practice, especially if they seem loose or wiggle.
My DW was flakey as hell, lots of corroded connections. I just started replacing the worst with trifurcons and the game finally stabilized.
Later I had all the boards rebuilt by Chris Hibler and ended replacing all of them.
The game is now rock solid.
Quoted from WarriorPin:I pressed on the some of connectors on the power driver board, particularly the J115 connector and the machine comes to life. Loose wire or short? It's working now but should I reseat all the connectors when I get sometime?
Same as above, loose IDC connections and dirty worn header pins.
1 week later
Quoted from monkfe:anyone following the three TAF's on ebay...seems like an odd way to list these machines....
Looks like a scam to me.
Quoted from jdoz2:Needing this metal trough piece to complete my addams family playfield swap. Anyone have one?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/looking-for-wpc-metal-trough-piece-
The whole assembly? Or parts of it?
Google is your friend !
Marco has a search bar !
Its an amazing world we live in.
I did 2 mins of searching !
Marco has the outhole guide and a lot of parts (they are a great resource):
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-8623
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6542
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10599
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1B-3569
Good luck on your resto !
Quoted from jdoz2:The first one you linked! I had no idea what it was called. Thanks!
Your welcome!
1 week later
Quoted from CubeSnake:I just realized I still have my NOS cloud from my last TAF (let that one go back in '06) if anyone needs it, PM me with an offer. Thanks!
I also have a couple floating around.
Its unclear at this point whether Im using one for my resto.
Im really liking the smoked version thats not too dark...
1 week later
Quoted from gac:I think the originals were all “smoke” or gray as you mention. The clear and black toppers were all aftermarket products.
I have had 8 originals, 7 were smoke one was clear.
I think the clear was a replacement.
In my opinion, the smoke shows the lighting better. On the clear the lighting goes unnoticed for the most part.
However if you use colored (purple) LEDs the clear might be a better choice, it looks cool.
Quoted from EvanDickson:I find that the placement of the rivets, screws on polar bear ramp are far enough from the edge of the ramp that the ball could "bump" over them (usually the rivets are close enough to the edge that a ball could never touch them). I'm worried that this will mean scratching of the ball, which will then mean scratching of my new play field. Does anyone know if there's ramp protectors that would keep the ball from hitting the rivets?[quoted image]
The rivets should be plated brass. They wont scratch the ball. They will flatten out over time.
1 week later
Finally set up my completely trashed TAF.
I got most of the broken stuff fixed.
The flipper switches are so corroded and worn they need to be replaced. They dont even work properly after filing them down.
I decided to just put in the "Gold Edition" electronic switches instead of buying new $20 unreliable "old school" switches.
More info on this upgrade can be found here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/converting-taf-flippers-from-leaf-switch-to-optical-boards
20220326_151902 (resized).jpg20220326_163845 (resized).jpg20220326_163855 (resized).jpg20220326_163921 (resized).jpg
Quoted from pinballinreno:Finally set up my completely trashed TAF.
I got most of the broken stuff fixed.
The flipper switches are so corroded and worn they need to be replaced. They dont even work properly after filing them down.
I decided to just put in the "Gold" electronic switches instead of buying new $20 unreliable "old school" switches:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This solution was fast, easy and incredibly robust.
It took me about 40 mins to install this system.
No real soldering, just a few crimped connectors, and thats it.
However I did have to add an 2 pin header off the coin interface board to power the 12v for the opto boards.
This was not very difficult.
I used "chip quick" to make it very easy to remove the existing solder from the 2 holes.
Its very low temp and keeps you from burning the board.
The flippers are MORE responsive and dont fade as the old contacts oxidize and need cleaning.
This solution will last many years with no need for any adjustment or the filing of the tungsten contacts.
It works so well, I recommend that people do this instead of just putting in new switches.
Its truly like night and day and totally modernizes the system.
Quoted from harig:TAF is the first fliptronics game so I assume it is not tungsten contacts but low current (gold?) ones. Filing them might not be a good idea
TAF is Fliptronics 1 and has regular "old school" flipper switches, not gold (see the pictures above please).
Although gold switches can probably be used, original games didnt come with them. I think Williams was just using up existing inventory.
All of the regular TAF's I have restored have had beat up tungsten flipper switches. I usually replace them, but they are a pain to adjust. Since this is the last TAF game in my repair queue (and the worst) I decided to upgrade the switches.
TAF "Gold" is fliptronics 2.
The infrastructure is "in-place" for opto switches on a regular TAF.
Its a simple upgrade but plays exceptionally well, and better IMHO.
After doing it, I recommend that all the fliptronic 1 games do the upgrade, (there are only a couple though).
This mostly has to do with eliminating switch adjusting and regular contact cleaning.
Gameplay wise, the flippers are snappier and respond a bit faster.
Perfectly adjusted, brand new "standard" switches also play very well, but this changes as the contacts age and wear.
For the casual "home" player and owner, this upgrade solves tons of issues.
1 week later
I just installed a pindorabox.com 7 opto board.
Excellent "over then top" build quality, it even has air flow holes under the resisters.
If you are shopping for a new board, this is the one you want.
Quoted from orangegsx:I understand, I meant the holes like scoops where the ball will be going and out of.
Thats what cliffy's are for.
1 week later
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Questions, working on my friend’s TAF.
The topper lights don’t work, none of them.
Fuse maybe? Or is there another possibility to look into?
I also found this random metal shim on the bottom of the cabinet and am at a loss for what it does.
[quoted image]
Its a bookcase shim.
Quoted from Jmckune:Thank you. Perhaps it’s not needed then as it has a rotten dog fliptronics and everything is labeled as a 900 number. I also do not see a spot for it to go and flippers are functioning
Yes, aftermarket fliptronics 1 and 2 combo boards leave that connector off.
Its for an original fliptronics 1 board only.
Quoted from lhammer610:I have a different opinion. I find that most games benefit subtly from the OCD boards. I like the OCD board for switched lamps, but can live without it. I think my TAF looks great during game play. During the attract mode, when the lights are rapidly flashing on and off, I have a friend who does not like it, but that is only during the attract mode. The only game where I had to do OCD with LOTR, which is, of course, a completely different system.
I cannot figure out why the GI OCD is needed, but I understand why some do. The GI's are not on DC, but on 60 Hz AC and there is a flicker that can been seen as the ball moves through the playfield. Some people are quite sensitive to it and bothered. Others are not. I think it depends on how bright your room lights are and even maybe if those are LEDs too.
I have wondered about converting the GIs to DC. I did that in some early Bally pins by just moving the GI's to the same DC power supply as used by the switched lamps. It is possible to do that because the DC lamp supply was designed to power incandescent bulbs and the combined switched and GI LEDs use less than the switched alone.
But in WPC, the GI's are controlled by triac's and I do not know how they would react if I put DC through a triac vs. DC. In most games the GI control via the CPU is minimal and rarely used except to dim the GI's between games. That is NOT true in TAF, when, prior to multiball, the GI's are switched on and off.
So my answer to your question is, are you bothered by LED GI flicker? If so, get the OCD for the GI's. If not, save your money.
LED OCD and GIOCD give you control over the illumination and flash rate.
The settings out of the box are pretty good, but in some cases I had to do some tweaking to get it just exactly right.
The software to do this is pretty straight forward and its very easy to make adjustments, but you need a windows laptop and a USB cable.
I dont particularly like the very high flash rate of LEDS. They looks wrong in the older games, especially in attract mode.
For me, uncontrolled LEDS look harsh and out of place.
New games with RGB lighting systems are highly controlled.
LED OCD and GIOCD solves this very real problem.
I think its a mandatory setup.
Quoted from spidey:With LEDs in the GI, you need GI OCD for Seance mode to look right.
Yep, I always do a 100% LED setup on my restorations, LEDOCD, GIOCD if needed, pinsound with motion control ans shaker, flipper fidelity speakers, colorDMD, CPR backglass, amongst all of the other meaningful add-ons.
Cost is never the object, but I highly scrutinize everything I put in.
But it has to be meaningful or have a higher degree of utility or durability.
For instance, Im now putting in flipper opto switches on any non-gold TAF that comes in for a restoration.
It adds another $85 to the $6500 parts list, but they dont require any serious maintenance or adjustment compared to the old mechanical contacts.
"In for a penny, In for a pound", the way I see it.
Games dont do a ground up restoration very often, I try to do the very best one can do while they are in my shop.
Quoted from OTRChief:I installed a GI OCD yesterday in my WH2O and it makes a major difference (lots of dimming). I added leds a long time ago and don't remember this amount of dimming with conventional bulbs. It dims between balls and during multi-ball and maybe some other times.
"Allow Dim Illumination"
Is a setting in the service menu.
When its enabled there are TONs of effects on a lot af games.
The default is OFF, so a lot of people have never seen it.
If you put LEDs in the backbox there is terrible flickering if dimming is enabled.
You can see it plainly if you scroll thru the GI powrer saver settings on games that have this feature.
The solution was to turn off the dimming and live without it.
I just add the LED OCD and GIOCD boards to solve it.
Uncontrolled LEDs can look bad or do all sorts of ghosting and odd flickers.
Quoted from lhammer610:I am curious about that. TAF is the only Fliptronics pin that I am aware of that does not use opto flipper boards. There are so many people out there that hate the Williams opto flipper boards and claim they are a source of weak flippers.
Given that the flipper switches have very low current going through them, because of the solid state design of Fliptronics, the mechanical flippers should last forever.
On the other hand, the opto flipper boards should be good for a very long time. But we are replacing all optos when we overhaul pins, because the LEDs are getting weak or burning out. They are also more sensitive to dust.
I have been researching going in the opposite direction: replacing flipper optos with mechanical leaf switches. The problem is that I want gold plated flipper switches and all the Williams flipper switches are tungsten because they are made for the high current in non-Fliptronic systems.
DE/Sega/Stern all use mechanical switches in their computer controlled pinball machines. I believe JJP does to. So I am looking into that part number to see if that can be used to replace the flipper opto boards in WPC pins.
Its not so much durability in home use.
Its absolutely certain that 30 year old optos get old and weak and should be replaced. Fortunately they are inexpensive.
Brand new mechanical switches last 100's of thousands of flips or more. Tungsten switch pads corrode and are a constant maintenance issue.
My WOZ stats show 1.5 million flips on the left and 1.1 million flips on the right.
I have rebuilt the flippers 5 times including broken bushings, but the coils are original and the gold plated mechanical cab switches were replaced only once, the gold wears off and they corrode.
I have to adjust switch gaps once in awhile to get them to feel perfect.
Its home use only.
Its a matter of adjustment and feel.
On TAF the opto boards give me a "consistent feel and correct adjustment" continuously, and dont lose power like dirty contacts do.
I takes me many plays to dial in the mechanical staged flipper switches on a TAF so that it feels perfect.
Then over time, it changes a bit and I have to "clean and adjust", to fix them.
The opto boards are pretty much fire and forget, never need cleaning or adjusting.
And, they stage very well.
So, Im sold on the opto board upgrade for standard TAF's. The flippers are snappy, powerful, and require no maintenance.
New mechanical flipper switches are a bit more expensive than new opto boards ($10.95 for high quality anarchy boards at pinball life, $18 for mechanical switches at Marco), and on the cheapest side of things you can just replace the LEDs themselves to save $8.
Quoted from lhammer610:Good to know that you can replace the horseshoe optos in those flipper boards. Which part number from where do you use?
https://www.pinballlife.com/slotted-led-opto-switch.html
Quoted from lhammer610:So I was surprised to read that you 'upgrade' TAF flipper switches to optos, considering how many people hate them.
I find them snappier and more responsive.
Yes it's too bad the TAF flipper buttons are not gold, and tungsten is a terrible choice for digital flippers.
Quoted from golfingdad1:Back in the club , with my original Addams.
Here is something interesting, talking about original toppers, like we have been. Here is a pic of mine with factory Bally sticker on a smoked topper [quoted image]
[quoted image]
If you do black armor, I think the smoked topper looks the best.
Quoted from ChiefKC:I just removed the batteries and installed NVRam on my Addams Family. When I tried to power it up, I'm getting a slight buzz on the speakers and that is it. I checked the leds on the CPU board and D19 and D21 light up and stay lit. D20 does not light up at all. From my understanding, D19 should turn off shortly after powering up the machine and D20 should start flashing. I have already tried reseating all the ribbon cables and verifying they are properly seated, and I also ensured that before I installed the NVRam that there was no solder bridges between any pins. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to look now?
bad trace to the ram
remove it and check all the lines for continuity.
this is really common.
send it out for repairs if you cant fix it.
Quoted from rsos1:Where is the best place to get the following.
Translite
Speaker panel plastic
Magnet bracket. (Macro has these but they are $20 bucks a pop)[quoted image]
Get the magnet brackets from Marco.
If your smart, get the 1" spring washers to add tension to keep the magnets firm against the playfield, it will work better:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9612
Also possibly get the thermistor magnets from marco to help eliminate burn. They cost more than the ones at pinball life, but I think they are worth it, as well as the weebly magnet board replacement.
classic arcades makes a pretty good repro speaker panel:
Ebay has repro translites all the time, but you are better off with the CPR mirrored backglass if you are doing a total resto.
Other than that, put up a wanted add. A pinsider might have a translite and speaker panel for you.
Quoted from Tallon:Just managed to join the club, not once but twice. Missing a few parts here and there but not looking to do a refurbish right now. Does anyone have this plastic I could get from someone? Would hate to buy a plastic set for a single plastic.
[quoted image]
maybe ebay?
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Lots cheaper to have them powder coated then printed and that's it.
I would think so.
If I do a whole batch of powder coating for a game (6 pieces) its only $125 for the lot locally (if I use stock colors and single pass).
Maybe $25 for the apron.
I can always ship one to get it printed. SO much better than the decals!
Quoted from Gundam_Pilot_:Not sure whoever owns number 614 of TAFG but this is your chance to complete your game.
ebay.com link: itm
Sorry if this was already mentioned
How much for just a photoshopped copy on an old piece of paper? Lol.
Quoted from mjenison:$32.95?
https://pinballfanatic.com/product/addams-family-gold-pinball-collectors-certificate/
However, if someone has the original cert for 881 let me know.
Lol
Quoted from Shredder565:So, I'm trying to get all the parts I DO have currently installed, while waiting for funds to settle. these guys are for the pop bumpers. How do they fit on exactly?[quoted image]
Read up on them here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers
The manual should have an exploded view of them.
1 month later
Quoted from Shredder565:So, it's obviously been a while since I worked on this thing due to money issues. But these are the four un assembled parts I Have left.
Where does this board go? also, how easy are the two pieces on the left to assemble? one doesn't even have a completed picture.
[quoted image][quoted image]
The manual has exploded views of the mechs
Did you order support brackets for the board?
Quoted from orangegsx:Is there a good diagram of what posts go where on the playfield? Plastic and metal. I’m not seeing it in the manual. Maybe just have to review some hep builds
Definitely copy another game or go over the HEP pictures.
1 week later
Quoted from Shredder565:well, I guess while I have these things here now...how does that look?
[quoted image]
Yep, looks about right
1 week later
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, as someone with attention deficit disorder, when I Get THIS close to finishing something, I'm all over the place, so I'm going to do something a little unusual. lets start with this image. I need some help to figure out what is missing, and part numbers so I can go to marco and look them up. figured it might be easier to speed finish this thing up and not miss anything [quoted image]
Missing a roll-over and a few lamp sockets.
Check the HEP pictures with a magnifier. You will see whats missing if you divide the playfield into eighth's.
Quoted from Shredder565:Sorry for being this threads over poster this week
One more thing today, as pointed out with a photo earlier. and with another HEP photo for reference. how does THIS placement look for the rods before I re staple them?
And, Also noticed I had this sucker in the wrong place. I did have it in the top left kickout above the book case, but the HEP photo shows a different model. Are there THREE of these on the board somewhere, or did I buy a third one by mistake...
The other one goes right next to this one by, I think the chair kickout.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It doesnt matter where you put the Lamp flat wires.
They just CANT touch ANYTHING metal.
Quoted from orangegsx:I am doing a scratch build as well, this is what I purchased. You will need to trim the corner of the plate for clearance but it took me 10 seconds.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MX-B8925-UPD&Category_Code=BTO[quoted image]
Those switch lugs could be cleaned a little....
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I always staple the lamp leads first before everything else gets in the way.
Save things pics. They show your wire connections along with lead locations.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice work as always Bryan!
I think a lot of us have stopped using the flat wire lamp sockets and just integrate the round wire sockets (from Marco) into the harness with a molex.
I havent stapled one in in a couple years now.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5206-00
It solves some problems, but causes a couple minor ones in the exchange...
Quoted from monkfe:I agree...these are cleaner...I started using these...as the socket stays more upright https://www.pinballlife.com/pop-bumper-lamp-socket-with-centering-bracket.html
I dont think Ive put in regular LEDs for awhile either...
I really like Zitt's translucent pop bodies and the 7 LED discs.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/pop-bumper-discs?_pos=2&_sid=176cef3eb&_ss=r
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=772
the 7 led disc looks way better than the UFO looking ones and lights the bottom really well.
Quoted from Mikespinball:I like the EVO pop bumper LED lights from Pinball Life a bit better.
https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-evo-pop-bumper-lighting.html
But this is only my opinion. [quoted image][quoted image]
I think its really a matter of the game theme.
UFO looking pops on AFM or space themed game, or a circus raceway lights concept would work well.
Other games, I like the 7/11 leds disks from comet better.
Quoted from Shredder565:so, before this thing becomes swiss cheese, how does this placement look? better? I know i'm missing stand offs for the circuit boards on some.
[quoted image]
Dont obsess over this, its only critical that the flat wire doesnt touch anything.
The factory assemblers put them wherever they fit in.
Quoted from Shredder565:wouldn't that make an interesting game design? No one pinball plays the same
Just trying to get this thing as close to accurate as possible so it works .
Hi powered Fuse assemly came in today, one more part off the list. as did my ball trough plate switch assembly b-8925.
putting both in today.
Pinball machines are hand made.
No two play exacly alike.
No two are setup perfectly alike either.
Its part of the experience!
Quoted from Shredder565:what's the easiest way to trim this and make it look neat so it fits?
Now that the lower playfield parts are all but done, I'll concentrate on remaining lights and switches. from the photo's, looks like i'm missing alot of lights on the top.
[quoted image]
The only things I can't seem to find are A-15200 kickout assembly and a complete 01-10247 -A14185 A 15040 A-13278 for number 3 on the lower playfield parts list. I have everything else.
Mark it with a small ruler and a sharpie.
Cut a notch with a dremel fiberglass cutting wheel.
Or just cut it with a band saw.
Disassemble it first so that you are just working on the plate.
Use a small flat file for clean up.
Its made out of zinc coated mild steel, so its pretty easy to work with.
Cut it a little big so you have room for adustment.
It doesnt have to be a precision fit.
1 week later
Quoted from Shredder565:So, I have a complete motor for thing done. Do I really need the washer for the magnet? the only part I could not find and not sure we have one in the warehouse.
I also need the proper screws to hold the thing arm down and not sure which ones they are.
Took me far too long to figure out how to get the magnet screwed on right, and I knew this wasn't it.
[quoted image]
Yes you need the washer. It reinforces the rubber to keep the bolt from pulling thru.
Any washer you find that seems appropriate from the hardware store will work.
Generally it will be an oversized washer or a narrow flanged fender washer.
You will know it when you see it.
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, I found one in the warehouse since it doens't have to be a specific to game one.
Minus one cable I stil have to make, I feel 100% confident thing is finally complete properly now.
The Book case is MOSTLY complete. I need two cables, one washer for the bottom gear, and need to put in the two switches. but other than that, it's stable, if looking not pretty.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Did you order the shims for the bookcase?
You need them to get it level against the playfield.
Quoted from Shredder565:Nope, not on the list. but it is now .
Now that things are getting closer to done on the underside,
Scouring playfield swap pictures. I'm sure the right side of the PF is fine, just not sure on the placement of the left side items. some just look off and others I can't get to fit where they go.
If you are putting a decal on the bookcase, apply it before installing the unit.
Make the bookcase perfectly level with the playfield or the playfield will wear at the edges.
Its a pain, but has to be done.
I usually have it set the thickness of a piece of typing paper high initially.
They tend to settle a bit after a couple hundred plays.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Stenachi:I am struggling with getting the mirrored backglass to fit in the channel. Do you have any suggestions? None of the alternative lift bars or plastics seem to fit in the channel! Any help is greatly appreciated!
Use system 11 trim.
The lift channel must have no rib running thru it.
System 11 lift channel has no rib for a translite.
The rib makes the channel too wide to fit in the slot after being pressed on.
1 week later
Quoted from Mikespinball:I did black and liked the way it turned out. To me I like to have the "trim" not stand out as when I look at the sides of a cabinet my first impression should be the art work and not the trim (side rails, lock down bar, legs, coin door etc.) Again it's a personal choice. [quoted image][quoted image]
Once you go black...
2 weeks later
Quoted from anx10us:Thanks, my concern with removing the header pins is (my skills soldering and de-soldering) also making sure I have continuity from both sides of the board, I know this is sometimes an issue. I'm tempted to just replace the header and see how that goes ..
Next question do I stick with IDC Header or move over to crimp housing instead ?
The standard fix is to use a molex connector and trifurcon pins.
2 weeks later
Quoted from PolePosition:Hello. I'm trying to locate a replacement metal flap piece for the Window Ramp A-15150. I see suppliers that sell the whole assembly, but I just need the blue steel flap piece. Mine has lost its finish, and I'd like it to match the flaps that came with my new main ramp.
Any leads appreciated. Thanks!
If the flap is in good condition, I remove it and re-blue it.
There are 2 colors of Perma-Blue cold bluing compound, black and blue. amazon sells both. Walmart usually has the black color, sometimes both.
Gate flaps are black and some ramp flaps are blue. Often since Im sanding them out anyway, I just make everything black.
I just sand the flap clean and remove scratches, graining top to bottom, finsih with 1000 grit.
wear gloves and dont put any skin oil on it.
Clean off with acetone, heat it up with a hair drier to about 120 degrees and dip it in the solution. you can also brush it on if you are quick and liberal with the compound.
3 or 4 dips seems to be about right.
Quoted from PolePosition:Regrooving and re-clearing are beyond my skillset or comfort level.
If this is the case, I wouldnt worry about it. Really it doesnt make much difference at all.
On trash in the clear, you will have to lightly sand it out and re-buff to a high gloss.
Or live with it and let the ball roll it down, and it will.
I have never bought a repro playfield that I didnt have to sand flat and re-clear to meet my satisfaction.
But its a pinball machine! slight imperfections dont really matter in the long run.
Quoted from cconway84:I’m not complaining to hear these are original. I just had a hard time believing it at first. These pf are both the same manufacturer Burkel Inc. Oconto falls WI 54154 (414)846-8453. They are both stamped as such. One was March of 94, the other was Dec ‘95.
The more faded or yellowed pf on the right is off the serial number 8 game that looks much cleaner, wasn’t drilled for a lock bar, didn’t have coin mechs installed, and looks brand new.
Wish I knew more of both games history. [quoted image]
The game should have had coin mechs from the factory.
Operators pull them out when they sell the games.
Missing the mechs could be a sign thst its not HUO?
But who knows at this point.
Still its a Beautiful game with liitle or no wear from the lock down bar.
3 weeks later
Quoted from glpinball:Hmm maybe I should get pinsound for lotr. I was kinda disappointed after TAF.
The problem is always, low quality highly compressed, original files.
Thers only so much you can do with them as they are a bit noisy when put into an amplified system.
I have cleaned them up extensively on my Doctor Who, but they are nowhere near anything that could be done with todays recoring processes.
Quoted from lhammer610:How did you get a copy of the original sounds?
I have tried to get PinMAME to run and have been unsuccessful. If I had, I could have made a audio recording on my desktop and used that.
So, for TAF, I hooked up the original board through a speaker pad, to a D/A USB-C converter, into my iPad Air and recorded them using Garage Band. I have not reviewed them for quality, but I know they cannot be any better than the original ones.
The pinsound orchestrations are pretty good approximations of whats on the ROM, they were pulled off the game ROM.
Original recordings before compression and before encoding are probably impossible to get.
However you can strip the audio from a blu-ray film and get very good output.
The film has a lot of the call-outs you want.
Quoted from lhammer610:I have been wading through the posts of Tantrum's guide. All I have found so far about extracting the original ROMs is a dead link to Pinsound:
https://www.pinsound.org/sounds-rom-file-extractionI see your post. "I've gotten as far as putting the sound ROMs through M1/BridgeM1 and I have all of the audio extracted. "
How did you do that? I don't know what you mean by the "M1/BridgeM1"?
It is not clear to me how the Pinsound card takes the original data sound triggers used by the WPC cards, but it appears as all of that is contained in the "psrec" file - which I assume Pinsound creates? Is that correct? Other than trying to decode the data line as it triggers the original sounds, I don't know of another way.
I have the Pinsound Studio Pro installed on my Mac using Windows 7 and VMWare Fusion. It appears stuck on the registration process - which I hope unlocks the editing and emulation capability because, as is, PinSound Studio Pro seems pretty limited.
Pinsound studio is not an editor.
Use audacity for this.
Quoted from The_Pump_House:Sound Rom Question:
I want to burn new sound roms. There are two rom chips on the sound board. U15 and U18 but there's only one sound rom for download on IPDB (Revision L-1 or P-2)
What is the difference between L-1 and P-2?
What game?
The P- is usually for prototype ROMS.
Quoted from glpinball:Imma go out on a limb and say TAF considering where this was posted.
lol, doh!
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Question for someone smarter than me (which I’m pretty sure is all of you haha):
My Addams resets here and there. I’ve done the googling on it, watched videos on resets, and have some similar symptoms: it only happens on a multiball, which a number of people talk about, when both flippers are flipped. The difference in line though is it doesn’t happen consistently even when trying to recreate it. It doesn’t happen often, but is frustrating when it happens. I tried one of those “no reset” boards and that just made the flippers react wildly, triggering rapidly just from turning the game on.
Any ideas what to do or where to check?
Rebuild the power supply board.
2 weeks later
Quoted from monkfe:They're never perfect, people make drilling templates from the original to get it right....
For the bottom of the playfield:
I just use a piece of 24" parchment paper taped onto the old playfield.
Then I punch thru all the holes and mark them with a sharpie.
Then I place the paper over the new playfield and line up the holes in the paper with the major features.
You can clearly see where the dimples are good and where they are off.
I then hammer a new dimple with a sharp nail-set from my template where the dimples are off.
I would say that most of the dimples are pretty close usually, but its really handy to have a set of new dimples that are accurate.
Where the dimples are dead-on, I still reinforce them with a deeper dimple from my nail-set.
For the top of the playfield:
I set the old one on top and carefully check every single hole with a bright flashlight.
If a hole is found missing, I put masking tape over the area and use the old playfield ad a drill template and drill it out.
This method has served me well for years and works very well.
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