(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome


By mima

6 years ago



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#685 3 years ago

Is anyone making a revised TAF Tip36/magnet board for under the playfield that addresses the potential for the magnet burn?

#691 3 years ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

That's what the fuse kit is for.
RM

Thanks Russ ! Just ordered it.

It looks like the mod from the old days from Ray Johnson at action pinball!

#712 3 years ago

If you do anything to it at all, clear-coat the playfield.
Have it done professionally or do it yourself. This will drastically improve the life of the game.

DEFINITLY install the magnet fuse mod/fix from leesparts or others if it hasn't been done already!

Magnet burn has ruined tons of TAF and it a terrible thing.

New playfields are NLA and in very short supply and may never be released again due to licensing issues.

All of the other toys and mods do not affect the game play and sometimes can cause ball hangs and such.

However:

The one mod that will make the game better is the colorDMD mod along with the thing backbox light fix for it.

JMHO

1 week later
#728 3 years ago
Quoted from Nate:

Greetings,
I have an Addams Family at my office for employees to play--it runs well but was routed prior to it's arrival so there is a lot of wear to the cabinet and playfield. Eventually when the CPR playfield is reproduced I will be ready to do a full restoration.
Question, where can a set of cabinet decals be found?
Nate

http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/the-addams-family-cabinet-decals.html

1 month later
#798 3 years ago

At least the bookcase sign is still there, and the top plastic...
Probably original rubber on the mini-posts.

#802 3 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Came with white rubber rings from the factory.
But I don't doubt they are old.

They look like dried black clay, I imagine all the rubber looks this good.

2 weeks later
#875 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What do you guys think about the issue I described above with the ball taking too long to pop into the shooter lane after thing drops it? Thanks

Make sure that the metal box isnt dented or bent up too much. If so it can be hammered out. There once was a fix like a flat plastic that could be installed to repair bent worn out bottom panels. Kind of like the trough "V " that is being sold.

#914 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Ok guys reporting back on one of my issues. I replaced every single part on the shooter rod including a stronger spring ect. My problem of weak plunges did not go away. Upon closer inspection I noticed the metal tabs on the shooter lane where the ball sits on are not leveled, see picture. On top of the tabs not leveled, The shooter rod is too high and is not hitting the ball squarely in the center. The playfield tabs are sitting nicely and the machine is completely leveled. Anybody know what I can do to fix this issue? Thanks!

Everything has to be taken off (apron, skill shot meter etc.)
I had to tweak things quite a bit to get the shooter rod to hit the ball squarely.
Shooter rod assembly,casting can be moved around a bit (loosen the 3 nuts). On one game I had to file out the wooden triangular cut-out for the shooter assembly in order to get it exact.

Also look at the hooks that support the PF in the front and see of you can loosen and get the PF to move where you want it.

Its not too bad to get it all aligned, just tweak, nudge, bend and adjust whatever seems to be the problem.

#918 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Can I just maybe bend those tabs a bit? All very good suggestions. Thank you very very much!

Absolutely, if it works do it. As long as the shooter tip is squarely centered on the ball.

#920 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Ok once I remove the apron and meter, do I bend them some?
Already tweaked the rod assembly, that didn't help.
I'm thinking I can sand the triangle hole like you suggest. What did you use to sand it? How much did you sand it? Do you by any chance take pictures of it?
Thanks!

Before modifying the cabinet try tweaking the front PF supports to get another 1/16" of lateral play.
I used a rattail file and moved the shooter assembly about 1/8".
TAF is a tight fit as far as the shooter getting centered properly, especially if a repro PF was installed. The clearances are super tight.
On a lot of games the shooter tip drags on the skill shot meter, you can see the wear on he rubber.
Also inspect the rear PF guides/supports and see how it sits. If its crooked in the rear it will be crooked in the front.
Take a general look at how the PF sits in the cabinet it should be fairly square and centered for the most part.

But like I said before with a little tweaking you can get it just right.

#921 3 years ago

I had a Funhouse that was off 1/4" and kept moving around during game play. It turned out to be the pivot bushing was worn out completely on both sides and the PF was just loose and flopping around.

#923 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

The pivot bushing....are those the brackets where the PF sits and pivots on? If I sand the hole, will I ruin the decal art work?
All great suggestions...will follow your guidance and report back! Thanks!

If you move he shooter assembly, you might have to touch-up around it with a black paint pencil or a sharpie in a pinch.
A line where the shooter was originally may appear but its not noticeable for the most part
It looks like you only need 1/8" to make up.
After tweaking everything you might only need to file 1/16" or none at all.

#925 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Ok got it. The pivot bushings is the baracket(s) where the PF sits and pivots on correct?

Yes, but I think they only come into play of they are super worn out or broken. On these 20 year old games, everything is showing signs of wear.
Loose/worn mounts cause the PF to sit at crooked or a crosswise angle in the cabinet but that can be compensated for with the leg levelers.
I have seen a couple games where a screw was inserted in the lockdown bar slot where the front hanger goes to keep the PF centered.

#929 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Yeah, I will inspect everything you suggested and report back after I get off work
On the issue with the thing box, when I lifted the PF last night I could hear something like maybe a bulb or screw loose and moving around in there. Maybe that is the cause of my issue? I will remove the box and inspect and report back. Thanks!

Subways, PF boxes, scoops, you name it generally have broken rubbers, bulbs, screws and bits of broken off wire gates in them.
I have even pulled out complete cherry switches, coins/tokens and even a shirt button.
Its amazing what you find in games especially heavily routed ones.

My Vendo 44 Coke machine had a full coin box filled the mercury head dimes and buffalo nickels from the early 50's. The key was missing and nobody bothered to open it. I bought it "as-is" and it worked perfectly, still running today.

#936 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Guys,
My top box lights behind the translite all work but I noticed I only have one bulb that blinks (the top left one with the red window). That is the only one that blinks. How many bulbs are supposed to blink in the top box? Why do I only have this one bulb blink? All the other bulbs work perfectly in the top box, but the ones that are supposed to blink, don't blink at all, they just stay on. Am I supposed to have a special bulb for the areas that are supposed to blink? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

The backbox originally had 7 of the 455 blinker bulbs.
The 455 blinker is not a managed flasher and just blinks randomly.

In the link below from the IPDB, the bulbs that are unlit are the 455 blinkers.
Sadly the 455 blinkers are no longer in manufacture. Regular bulbs were put in to replace the blinkers as they wore out.

455 blinkers do exist but the supply is very limited and they can be very expensive.

One can however upgrade the sockets to the wedge style and use the newer 545 blinkers in the same circuit.

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=20&picno=32946&zoom=1

You can also replace the missing blinkers with newer blinking LED lights.
But these seem a little bright to me and dont have the side illumination that an incandescent bulb does.
This leads to the odd polka-dot pattern on some back glasses from an LED upgrade.

#939 3 years ago

^^^^^^^^^^^^^Like he said !, thanks Bryan.

#944 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Do I have to replace the socket if I install LEDs?

Get the 455 from Terry they will look the best.
Unless there is a side illuminating LED that is suitable for this application

#970 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

On a my issue of the plunger not hitting the ball 100%, I noticed the PF is sitting too low and the plunger is hitting the top part of the shooter meter. Can I put some washers on the PF hooks to lift up the PF a bit? Has anyone done this before? Does it work? Any other ideas? Thanks!

Sometimes the hooks are sagging from age and weight. They can be removed and bent into their correct position.
If the hooks are weak (lost their tempering) and dont hold their setting, new ones can be purchased.

***However, often brand new ones will have to be bent into shape, to make them perfect.

#972 3 years ago


Quoted from terryb:If the brackets on the front of the playfield are bent (allowing the playfield to sit lower) then put them in a vise and straighten them out. Washers shouldn't be needed.

#975 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Honestly they do not look bent at all, in fact, they look brand new. I will try to post a pic. If they are in fact not bent, will washer work at all? Thanks

You can put washers if you want, a couple fender washers will be ok, but they will probably sink in over time. Most of us just bend the supports to our liking.

#976 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

These hooks look new, will try to post a picture of them if the system lets me. What is the exact correct position? Can you possible post a pic? I mean, mine look pretty good but I could be wrong.
Also, I'm in full panick mode! I was unscrewing the shooter rod assembly to try to position it more to the left, but the screw that is right next to the cabinet was sooo stubborn it got stripped! I have tried everything and it just won't come out. Already tried the rubber band method, the glue and toothpick method, bigger screwdriver, nothing works. Can I drill it out until I completely destroy it? Any other ideas please? Thanks!

Stripped screw problem? Drill them out or try an extractor from home depot.
Stripped hex head bolt? Try a gator socket or one of the other extractors.
Stripped hex head screw? Cut off the head with diagonals (side cutters?) or try Vampliers (needle nose vise grips)
Stripped nut? try a small nut splitter (especially on old stripped flipper bat nuts)

On the shooter rod assembly (cast aluminum), I would just grind off the head of the screw with a dremel, or use a cut-off wheel.
It will come out of the assembly with vise grips and a hammer later on by whacking on it.

#979 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Also, where exactly do you bend them? Next to the hook that sits on the cabinet?

I usually put them in my vise and hammer/bend a bit to get that 1/8" you are looking for.

#984 3 years ago

Looks like a lithium battery installation, could be a capacitor, instead of the regular batteries. This is used to hold your high scores when the game is not powered up.

Its an older system. Now we use NVRAM. Much better and requires no maintenance forever.

Get the NVRAM kit and cut that off when you get a chance.

#992 3 years ago

The top hooked part is no longer square to the rest of the support.
Bend the smaller upper hook part down a bit to raise the PF. You can probably make that adjustment on each support after removal of course with a hammer. Just knock it down a little, like 1/8".

#995 3 years ago

not the end but the segment just past that one, that would be parallel to the floor

#1003 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I wanted to ask you: Does this capacitor or lithium battery ever need to be replaced? Does it require some type of maintenance? Is it OK if I just keep it for now? Thanks

I doesnt appear to be doing anything bad at the moment. I would leave it alone.
When it gets time to change it out I would get the nvram.

#1006 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

When they eventually fail, the pin will reset to 'no free play', and give a probably give an error.

If you un-plug the game your hi-scores will reset.

#1009 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Question for the team here -
I am replacing my TAF bulbs with LEDs, and cleaning up the inserts and playfield. The majority of the bulbs work great - replaced 555s and #44s no problem, they look amazing. I just turned on the game again to check my progress, and I realized that ALL 906 bulbs have failed, simultaneously.
I understand that 906s must match polarity but would all of them fail at once if one was accidentally switched? ? These are the original 906s, as I forgot to order those in the set.
I want to get some of the easy possibilities out of the way before I got hunting for a bad connection or something (which I seriously doubt, as I was super careful not to pull on anything). Would the change in voltage somehow negatively affect the 906s? Must I replace them with LEDs also for some reason ?
thanks very much... playfield looks great except for the gigantic holes in The Power and the graveyard !!

Check the fuse. Also look up what coil is controlling the flashers (not a real coil) you will understand the circuit better.

#1029 3 years ago
Quoted from Bryno:

There are more pictures of the PF but I didn't post them all and the rest look as good as the ones I did to be fair.
True, didn't think about the boards and the insides etc. But if he has put so much work on the rest you would hope the internals are in similar shape.
He didn't mention that it had new decals, but yes you are right, they look like new as does the whole cab to be fair.
Looks like I know what I might be doing this weekend then. ROAD TRIP!!

You really cant go wrong at that price. If it works well enough and everything works, youve got youself a steal.

#1032 3 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

You guys realize the price he's paying is in British Pounds, right? £4K = roughly $5300. Granted that TAF in the pictures looks pretty nice, but seeing it in person will make all the difference in the world. The seller might be one of those scammers like we've got here in the states who use googled images in the ad and actually have a piece of junk.
I'm not saying to not go look at it and/or to not go buy it, I'm just saying to pump the brakes a bit and take it slow. Don't get in a mad rush and make a hasty decision. Educate yourself as much as possible on the problem areas TAF has, how much they cost to fix(parts and labor time), and what to look for when you go look at it. Then, look at what TAF's sell for in private transactions in and around the Manchester and Sheffield areas. Retailers here in the colonies mark up their used TAF's to as much as $10k or more, if they think they've got something really nice. But TAF's rarely go for that much in private sales, unless it's a TAFG in really good nick. A retailer on ebay lists machines for $9k all the time that would sell for literally half that in a private sale here on Pinside.
All that to say this: Arm yourself with information. It is your best friend and your best bargaining partner in negotiations when you go to look at it.

Still from the pics we have seen its a pretty nice game for $5300 IMHO....

1 week later
#1065 3 years ago

The magnets can be loose or not installed firmly against the PF. This can be why some magnets seem more powerful than others.
In other cases the magnets are worn out or have developed resistance (get hot easily etc) to the point that they become weak.
Also the wall current is an issue, higher power makes for a more sprightly game. Low power or games on an extension cord or mutli-outlet strip can suffer from anemic performance.

2 months later
#1184 3 years ago
Quoted from leesparts:

Set the A.2 30 Buy Extra Ball adjustment.

In order to enable you would need to add a buy in button. Sorry, I have no idea how you would wire it in.

Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Oh yeah.... That's the hard part!!!

adding the buy in button is not too hard:

http://www.home.earthlink.net/~pinball_stuff/TAFmod.htm

#1199 3 years ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

The "hands" Uncle Fester was originally on eBay from a gentleman in Spain. I have purchased two of them directly from him as I thought they were well made. I preferred it to the "bulb in the mouth" Fester.
They were hand painted and look great!

http://pinballpro.net/shop/uncle-lester-af-1/

http://www.pinballdecals.com/TAF_UncleFester4Point0Page.html

4 months later
#1371 3 years ago

Does anyone have a spare set of 2nd gen TAF cabinet decals that they want to sell?
PM me

2 weeks later
#1378 3 years ago
Quoted from Bronty:

is that a reply to me? You think those chips might be bad?

I think it just answers an earlier question.
Now make sure you dont install them backwards, be very careful to get the cut-out in the right direction and dont bend a pin.

1 month later
#1405 2 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Anyone replace the round blue bookcase base? easy? difficult? pics or instructions somewhere?
thx

Its not too bad, the manual has an exploded view of it.

2 weeks later
#1429 2 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Thanks Russ.
Any body have tips on removing these side rails ???
Appears there is only one nut and bolt near the flipper button, and adhesive holding the rail down . But it's on GOOD.

The adhesive is double sided tape.
Careful use of a putty knife will slice off the tape without damaging the visable artwork below the siderails.
I just put a plastic spatula below the putty knife while working off the tape and have good results.

#1441 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

FOR SALE; $175 SHIPPED
Brand new clear Addams ramp with staircase decals. Sockets and blue steal attached. NIB, New reproduction thicker plastic.
PM for details. Paypal only.

seems a tiny bit high on price but still very competitive:

http://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/The-Addams-Family-Main-Ramp

http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/720/the-addams-family-main-ramp.htm

http://bcspinball.com/product_info.php?cPath=0_3_12_63_64&products_id=42

#1443 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

the smoke version, not as popular.

I agree with that ! I hate the smoke version, so Im not a big fan of it...but to each his own...

2 months later
#1568 2 years ago
Quoted from slvrballer:

Those are some very poor welds.

I cant say that the welds are poor without looking at it closely, maybe the weld just isnt buffed off.

2 weeks later
#1596 2 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

I got the unobtainable bookcase rubber pads in over the weekend from Mr. Pinball. I've contacted via PM those who expressed interest back when I said I'd order them. If I have any left over, I'll post here.

If you have one left over, I would like it!

2 weeks later
#1626 2 years ago
Quoted from Vdrums:

what could cause my TAF upper flipper to stick sometimes?

Take it apart and clean the coil sleeve and coil stop.
While your looking at it check to see if anything is interfering with its movement like a broken switch or spring.
Also check that the return spring is in good order.
Check that all the parts are clean and in good condition and not binding in any way.

1 month later
#1690 2 years ago

I would like 2 of the square pads and 2 of the bookcase pads please if it isnt too late.

3 months later
#1923 2 years ago
Quoted from mima:

Anyone interested in these battery adaptors for a single 1/2 AA lithium battery. Get rid of the Alcaline leakable batteries and just plug this adapter into your 3AA battery holder with a 1/2 AA lithium battery instead.
$10 a piece
$12 shipping (up to 5 adapter sets).
Cheers
/mima

I think those are a great idea!
My nvrams dont hold the clock settings when I get power failures, typically 3 times a day here.

1 month later
#1989 2 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I have been working on a Addams this week. Not my Gold but for someone else. Has anyone ever seen Fester and Swamp Scoops this bad. New ones are on order.

Looks like someone was using the scoop to learn how to weld, and didnt use a hood or goggles!

4 weeks later
#2079 2 years ago
Quoted from sake:

How would you rate this playfield? Doubting for a PF swap.

Since there a couple options for the swap it would go for the swap.
It would cost the same as a restoration and the inserts would be firmly glued in as they would be new.

I looked at the Mirco offering at TPF and I would say that its the best option but the CPR one is also good.

I have both now and either would be exceptional.

3 weeks later
#2124 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

So, spent USD 5 on eBay for a couple of fuseholders with a 3A sloblow fuse to make TAF more bulletproof. No brown burnmarks on my playfield

Thats probably the best $5 solution out there, but you can still get magnet burn. I have seen it happen a couple times.

The best solution that I have never seen fail, is to get the replacement magnet board. I put them in all my TAF.

It was re-engineered to work correctly/perfectly and they are inexpensive:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-addams-family-fused-high-power-board-a-15139

If anyone has seen a burned playfield after installing this please let me know.

#2127 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Just nicely ordered on a pcb and not in the wires.

Plus its not 25 years old and failure prone.
It's a high voltage circuit and the TIP36's are prone to failure or "lock on"

The whole board is only a couple bucks more than rebuilding an old board completely and getting in-line fuse holders.

JMHO

#2129 1 year ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Says they are no longer available..?

Did you try the main site:

https://nvram.weebly.com/

1 week later
#2168 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I will tackle the Thing lights connector soon...
I Discovered a mod protection fuse blown under the playfield for the left magnet, I replaced the fuse with a three amp slow blow and it seems that the magnet is locked on, I switched connectors to another magnet, and powered on the machine and that magnet locked on also. So I guess I’m looking at replacing a transistor and driver. Does anyone offhand know which one I need to look at on the driver board ?. I’m waiting on my manual to arrive that I purchased a few days ago

Maybe just get the newer replacement board it's really nice:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-addams-family-fused-high-power-board-a-15139

#2171 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Lol, I just ordered that. Thanks guys!
Does this board hold all of the drivers necessary to control the magnets?
If the magnet is locked on, does this board replace the driver functionality from the MPU?

Yes and yes.

#2172 1 year ago

If the problem is the typical failed tip36 on the magnet board.

4 weeks later
#2205 1 year ago
Quoted from Frax:

Yeah, if only I had someone that was actually capable of doing that...

.....F--k.

A hood prop does wonders

amazon.com link »

1 week later
#2223 1 year ago
Quoted from biscoseattle:

Hey all!
New to pinside and considering buying my first pin. I’ve really had my heart set on Addams Family and I found one in my area at a reasonable price. All working condition, play field with slight wear but it has magnet burn (which I think is pretty typical). I’d plan on getting the fuse kit as many have suggested but how worried should I be about the burn as a signal of pin condition? Any thoughts or guidance?

Since Mirco has released The Addams Family Playfields I would just replace the Playfield and you have an amazing brand new game.

Because of this I would pay a lot less for any game that has magnet burn knowing I could get a replacement Playfield at this point.

So don't pay too much and for the quick fix put the decal over it and play the heck out of it.

#2226 1 year ago
Quoted from biscoseattle:

thanks for the advice ericpinballfan . Will install the fuse kit!
I've found the magnet burn overlay decal online (one with just the cloud part and one with the full orange magnet part). Is it just a simple stick on situation or do I need to sand down or do any other prep to level the playfield before application?
I'm not to concerned with the look as long as its better than the burn but can the decal cause other issues down the road?

It's stick on.

2 months later
#2343 1 year ago
Quoted from Michael_D:

Fellow pinsiders, one of the mylars is lifting on my TAF. Should I try to remove, try to re-adhere, or leave alone?
[quoted image]

Sadly it will have to be removed.
Your choice as to whether you use the heat or freeze or alcohol soak/wet method.

If the edge is lifting I always elect to use the wet method.
Its time consuming but does the least damage.

Use plastic razor blades or credit card egdes.

#2347 1 year ago

the problem is since it's lifting it's going to start to curl and when it curls it's going to launch the ball and cause some divots or further damage to the Playfield.

So pretty soon it's going to have to be fixed

3 weeks later
#2409 1 year ago
Quoted from biscoseattle:

Just wanted to share an update on my first pin. I bought it about 4 months ago. It was a heavily routed machine and was playable but buggy when I received it but now it’s really beginning to shine. I learned all my shopping skills from here and YouTube and I’m complete newbie. Here’s what I did over the past two weeks.
-Disassembled most of the topside, removed random Mylar, waxed and cleaned. Was filthy!
-installed magnet burn protectors (had to cut and repin the Molex because the joints were melted together). Bad burn!
-wet installed magnet burn decal (a few months back - see previous post
- replaced all rubbers
- fixed all broken bulb sockets (mostly replacing broken diodes)
- added LEDs to all inserts and pop bumpers. Comet pinball. Color matched for most part.
- added LED OCD board. Hated the flickering of TAF pins I’ve seen in past.
- added comet led flipper buttons
-added bookcase mod from lees parts
- added swamp mod (just used comet cheap LED strips)
- added 2 comet blue LEDs to back of play field
- added comet led strip to trough (ok I went crazy on The led strips but they are so cheap!)
Wow. What a trip. So much fun to learn all these new skills. I had neve even used a soldering iron before a few weeks ago. It was a little nerve racking taking everything apart but pictures helped.
Thanks to advice of so many here. Was particularly fun trying to get the lighting scheme right. Experimented with a lot of bulbs. I’m glad I resisted temptation of just doing a kit.
I don’t think I’m done. Next up I think is updating the GI to LED and adding GI OCD board. I may change the trough strip to purple and add some spotlights. Well see. I’m pretty happy for now.
To bad my game is so damn fast now I need to relearn how to play.
Thanks again to this community. Here’s a pic.[quoted image]

Looks nice and spooky!
Great job.

TAF benefits from 4 spotlights or pinstadium lights.
Check out the poor man's pinstadium lights thread.

#2411 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Hey guys -
Quick tech question for everyone!
I know you can adjust the height of the bookcase so that it is nice and level with the playfield. But what's the procedure for aligning the bookcase base left-to-right? On this game, one side - say in front of the ramp - may be even with the playfield, but the end that leads to the Adv X loop under Thing is a good 1/8" higher.
Thanks!

Yes, the adjustment is underneath. A combination of washers and post nut adjustments.

It's a little finicky but can be adjusted perfectly.

2 weeks later
#2462 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Thanks very much. To be honest I am looking for something that needs minimal - if any - work, as I'm more a player than a maintainer. As said the guy isn't exactly selling it super cheap so I'll probably end up passing on it.

I would pass on it then and get a better example. Still pinball machines need maintenance, sometimes.

1 month later
#2605 1 year ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Good morning Addams owners. As a I hope to be an owner of one of these some day, it is my grail pin, I would like to start acquiring the more common broken, missing, damaged LOW BUDGET items each time I order other parts from the various suppliers. If you could post a reply with the more frequent things you have replaced (not counting rubbers or bulbs), I would be grateful!

If on a budget it's best to get the game first.

Take it apart, then order all of the worn out, broken parts.

This way you dont waste money on extra parts you didnt need.

1 month later
#2641 1 year ago
Quoted from pacman11:

My addams family speaker isn't working in the base of the cabinet. Everything is hooked up, the sound almost sounds really quite or something. Any thoughts on this? Thanks!

Loose or broken wire or IDC connection, blown cap on the audio board?

Bad speaker?

2 weeks later
#2703 1 year ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Awesome thanks! A couple follow-up questions.
ROMs! It seems people don't prefer the gold roms that this machine has installed. There are a lot of versions, what version do people best?
Also, this board has been added, does anyone know what it's for? It looks like it runs to the audio board and to the topper.[quoted image]

Could be an anti-pop relay to eliminate the start and end pop sounds?

3 weeks later
#2753 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Yes, we are both referring to the 4 piece plastic trim.

If its actual glass and not a translite, you dont need plastic trim. Only need a lift channel.

#2756 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Good to know. Shame that info isn't on their website really, as not everyone will realise that it's not a complete ready-to-fit item they're buying.

None of the backglass need plastic trim. It doesnt need to be held together.

Trim pieces were developed to clamp the thin translites to the plastic sheets, so they could be installed as a unit and not flop all over while installing.

Backglass is one piece. All it needs is a lift channel to get it out.

1 week later
#2787 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I'm trying to wire up a power adapter to my TAF to power some mods, the instructions I've been given show a pin layout that doesn't match mine..
The instructions have this on:
[quoted image]
But my female transformer plug looks like this:
[quoted image]
According to this - http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Primary_Voltage_Selection_Jumpers_at_the_Transformer - the white wire (in pin 4 on mine) should be in pin 7, and the orange loop (in pin 6 on mine) should be in pin 9.
The machine works without any issues so I can only presume I'm missing something obvious, or the male plug is wired wrong?
Is my configuration legit? (I'm guessing it is nothing like you US guys have)

Its always better to plug an external supply into the service outlet for mods.

The game will be more stable.
Just sayin' ...

2 weeks later
#2879 1 year ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

I adjusted my plunger as much as possible, but I would have to cut into the cabinet to adjust it enough to make a difference.

Sounds like the front playfield hangers are bent or sagging.

Or possibly the lockdown assembly is at the incorrect height?

The hangers can be bent/adjusted to gain quite a bit of height or even lowered.

#2882 1 year ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

They don't like it, but I never thought of that. U can probably drill new holes in the apron and hang the whole thing slightly higher. Looks like there's a half inch or so of wiggle room before apron starts to interfere with play field glass.

For the most part you just bend the hangers up or down in a vice or something to get things to match up.

It also possible that they are the wrong ones.

There are a couple different drop lengths. Also might be stern hangers.

Measure yours and maybe get these:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11401

You can also put fender washers between the playfield and the hanger to raise it if its sagging and adjust the upper holes/slots in the hanger for the apron with a dremel if needed.

#2883 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Yup, my plunger is also a bit too high at the lowest setting. Last time I checked, I didn't see any new hangars available for TAF.

Maybe these:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11401

#2887 1 year ago
Quoted from metahugh:

These are the same dimensions as the originals and are in stainless steel:
https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-playfield-hanger-short/

Those are really nice!

Mantis makes the short and long versions. Measure to be sure.

#2890 1 year ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Those are what I got. Something's just out of whack. I removed the overly complicated fix and printed 1/2" spacers to raise the pf on the hanger. Works great, although I can't screw the apron into the hanger now and the apron is practically touching the glass, which looks a little unusual.[quoted image]

What are the dimensions of your hangers? The length?

Can you post a pic of the front edge of you game where the lockdown receiver is?

If you have the short hangers, something is wrong, or you have the wrong hangers.

#2893 1 year ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

2-1/4".[quoted image]

That looks right.

So, if the lockbar receiver isn't 1/2" lower than the front edge of the cabinet, then the plunger cut-out must have been reworked.

It should be level with the edge.

I have seen a couple games that someone lowered the lockdown receiver due to stripped out mounting screws. Easy to fix with toothpicks or bamboo skewers and glue.

Your spacers seem to do the trick though, just need to drill out holes for the apron screws.

Being close to the glass isn't a problem as long as it doesn't scrape the glass.

#2895 1 year ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Hmm. I wonder if the lockdown receiver is too high now.

It should be level with the cabinet front panel top edge.

But if it is too high or low then the correct lock bar would not engage the hooks. Unless it's the wrong one or reworked.

Or even possibly the wrong receiver and lockdown bar as a set, from a different game as a repair.

#2899 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Hi, my lower left flipper stopped working (upper left flipper still working)...
pulled the fuse on the driver board (was a 4 amp) and replaced with 3 amp, the flipper activated once and stopped working. Pulled the fuse again and tested with DMM ok, put fuse back in.
Checked the action of the flipper, recently rebuilt and action ok
Checked the eos switch (new) and action good
Checked the button stacked switches, looks good
Went to switch test, switch test good on both left flippers
What do I go check now?
Thanks TAF club.

Might be bad tip 36 and predriver transistor on fliptronics flipper board

#2913 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Can anyone tell me what purpose this metal post serves? I've seen it on some Addams, but on the ones its fitted on there is nothing attached to it. Is it purely there to stop a stray airball from potentially rolling behind the Thing box?
[quoted image]

Put a bug on it, one of the random ones from the plastics set.

#2924 12 months ago
Quoted from dnaman:

I have not seen a kicker in the thing box. It seemed to me like Thing drops the ball, the ball rolls out of the box and then likely kicked over with a coil but the ball actually leaves the Thing box, or so I thought. I did have issues with the ball sometimes getting stuck in a divot, in the box, (large enough denting) where Thing drops the ball at the bottom of the box. I will have to order another box as my temp fix has been just ok to date.

Hammer the dent out.
The box is thin metal and easily hammered back into shape.

Lightly tap on the dent over a block of wood until its flat again.

1 week later
#2934 11 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I'm getting pretty consistent airballs when the ball comes back down the Bear ramp (after not making it around) when it hits the flipper at the same time as it is flipped, as is instinctive to do.
It's hit the glass once and also hit the Fester figurine on the chair too, which wasn't cheap.
The pin is at 6.5 degrees according to PinGuy so I don't know what else I can do besides telling people not to flip at the same time as the ball coming back down. Any other suggestions? Is there any kind of angle adjustment on the flipper?

If you have LED's you can get more flipper power.

Adjust EOS switch to open earlier. Low power will kick in sooner.

Change to weaker flipper coils or put it on a variac and turn the power down.

AC Voltage Regulator,20 Amp Variac Variable Transformer, 2000va Max, 0~130 V Output amazon.com link »

#2937 11 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I'm in the club
Cab is pretty worn and the PF got some wear but everything seem to work as it should. It's already led's, cliffy's and a rottendog fliptronics card in it. Oh, previous owner also swapped to a new clear ramp plastic
Already ordered overlays for the PF (mansion and magnets above), new apron stickers, star posts, rubbers and some other stuff. Will also add the magnet fuse kit to be on the safe side. Currently going through the whole game cleaning and polishing everything; It will be great when fixed.
I have to do something about that abomination of a coin door; the ugly metal brackets have to go but I don't want ugly holes left so I am considering getting a brand new door.
[quoted image]

I think marco has parts for coin doors along with new ones.

1 week later
#2956 11 months ago
Quoted from trumpy:

while we are mentioning plastics , i'm just finishing up a CPR gold p/f swap( thanks to DCARUZA) and mojor tidy up on my TAF . have these plastics which I cannot find homes for .all have 31-1664- numbers , so they are off this game . no rotisserie playfield swap .
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thy get attached over the ramp you need to make a bracket.
HEP has a post about it in his thread doing a prototype mod.

#2959 11 months ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

Anyone have any tips for touching up minor wear around the flipper buttons on Addams? Thinking it should be relatively easy since it's black but curious to hear what others have done. Thanks!

satin black krylon

#2963 10 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

After cleaning the newly bought TAF I started playing on it and realized immediately that the kick-out hole outside the Thing box doesn't eject the ball reliably. The coil get the ball almost out of the hole, but then it falls back in again. Sometimes it get the ball out but most often it will fail to eject ~10 times and then the thing have to come and take the ball out instead.
I have cleaned the whole eject assembly and changed sleeve, but didn't help. I noticed the plastic end of the plunger have a weird "waist-line" slightly below the tip, might be it have brushed against the switch arm close by and worn the plastic? I also noticed my coil is an AE-28-1500 while the manual on ipdb.org states it should be an AE-30-2000.
I've done some googling and it appear that others having the same problem with this hole on TAF have changed their "weak" original AE-30-2000 coil with the stronger 27-1200 and get it to work fine, but it kind of feels like a hack. Shouldn't the original coil, or my current (stronger?) AE-28-1500 be enough?
Note: the pics were taken while cleaning, so the black dot on the plunger tip for example is not a hole as it looks like but dirt that I've already removed.
Looking at the pictures right now I also realized the wooden edge where the ball is supposed to go up seem to have a deep dent, meaning maybe the ball gets "stuck" against the small edge and fall back in? Perhaps I should try fill it with some quickwood.
TL;DR
Should I buy a new plunger, a new stronger coil or both?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Plunger is probably not centered or in-line under the ball and the ball slips past giving no power.
Adjust or bend the bracket a bit until it works better. Replace the plunger its also probably worn.

#2969 10 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I'm guessing trying to flow some solder over the missing parts won't work at all

This works surprisingly well

#2974 10 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Worse case scenario as PCBs go I can't see how that would be remotely difficult for someone to fabricate, unless I'm missing something really obvious. It's two wire connectors that have a single trace each that goes to a conductive hole

Send one to these guys:

https://www.pcbway.com/

you can have new ones in a few days super inexpensive.

#2979 10 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Update to the flasher PCB issue:
I tried to flow solder over the worn parts but as I suspected the solder didn't want to cover the parts where the trace were gone from the PCB. In the end I installed the twist-socket in the PCB and by turning it only halfway around it still rests on the intact trace, thus the flasher working.
I have no idea how I were supposed to get the solder to coat the clean PCB surface (where copper trace were gone), don't think its possible tbh. If you have succeeded in this then please tell me what I did wrong.
Anyway, problem solved, although not as nicely as I had hoped.

You did nothing wrong.
If the copper trace is gone, there is nothing for the solder to stick to.

There are copper trace rebuild kits fir this type of problem.
Its basically thin copper that you cut and glue into place.

Turning the base half way and thickening it with solder is what I would have done.

I also have ordered replacement pc boards too.

#2992 10 months ago
Quoted from shriver187:

hey guys, can you help me out. what would a HUO be worth with 651 plays?

Ha, the 651 plays and HUO raises a lot of red flags...

Maybe it's completely restored?
New playfield?

Lots if questions on this.

#2995 10 months ago
Quoted from shriver187:

thats why i asked. its going to be at a retail location. it isnt in yet, they just let me know its coming so not sure on condition yet

Hopefully it's a nicely restored game.

1 month later
#3089 9 months ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Quick question, I was thinking of pulling the play field out and putting it on a rotisserie so I can look at Thing and everything else better than trying to lean over in the cabinet. Doesn't help that I'm short as well. Am I correct in saying you need to pull all the connectors off the mother boards in order t do that?

Label the connectors with a sharpie.

It only takes 35 mins to remove the playfield and mount it on a rotisserie.

Put the cabinet on the floor (legs off).

Much easier it pull the playfield out of the cabinet with it low to the gtound.

Having 2 people really helps if you haven't stripped the topside.

1 week later
#3114 8 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

My bookcase (the blue plastic part) gets loose after a number of plays. It seems like the rotating motion of the bookcase unscrews screw nr 38 (inside the bookcase plastic) from the shaft 34 beneath, as I get more and more "up an down slack" on the shaft that holds it all together. If I tighten screw nr 38 its all ok for a while until the problem gets back again.
Screw 38 have washers with "teeth". Could I have the wrong screw? Looked at Marcos but they didnt have the exact part number so not sure if mine is correct or not.
The lock nut 37 is firm and in position so shouldnt be an issue.
Any suggestions on how to permanently fix this issue? Its annoying to tighten the screw over and over.

Screws with toothy washers are called SEMS.

nuts with toothy washers are called KEPS.

#3117 8 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I know that loctite and similar exist but never use it in fear of stuff getting hard to disassemble in the future. Perhaps I should make an exeption in this case thought.
The screw is inside the bookcase so in case it would get stuck really hard then the whole plastic assembly will be impossible to take apart without breaking it.

Use blue locktite. It comes apart really good, its for small parts.
Use purple locktite if you want even less hold power, like on 2-56 nut plates.

Never use the red its for permanent installation.

1 week later
#3135 8 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

Anyone else cut out this diode as suggested?

It's really dumb.

Just get the replacement, fused, magnet board and be done with it.

3 weeks later
#3223 7 months ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Hey fellas, I searched the topic and came up empty. Can I get a nudge please...
The Thing in my game grabs the ball and takes it into its box, and then the ball falls off the hand, but doesn't make it to the subway and I have to lift the playfield for the ball to roll the area where it finds the subway, what do I need to look for to fix the issue?

Is the thing box "ball dented" so that the ball doesn't roll out?

Also there is a ledge in play between the box and subway that causes some problems

#3234 7 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

If you folks think there's a market for a thing board with a relocated header I can do that.
What I've found is that it's more expensive than what I was hoping for/expecting. Probably looking at ~$110 shipped. Does that dissuade anyone? Being cheap, after spending $400 for a new display I personally wouldn't feel inclined to dump another $100.

I think it's a $35-$45 item.

There's got to be a short run manufacturer that can do it cheaply.

1 week later
#3267 7 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Need some advice.
I went through and rebuilt all the flippers. I mean EVERY part of these are new minus the actual mount. EOS are adjusted properly and I also installed new flipper leafs (also adjusted properly). It seems I'm getting random weak/short flips on both sides. Is this type of behavior indicative of the fliptronics board?
Also, thing is not returning the ball sometimes. I've pulled the metal box and there's no dent/s. Now here's the really weird part. I can hear the coil try to kick. Usually will attempt two kicks and then I have to lift the playfield to and jar it to get the ball to feed. I kind of feel like there's something else going on here. It's obviously making it to the coil switch. Is it possible the ball is somehow getting kicked back into the box or?

Sounds like a low power scenario.

Either wall power is low or something is not up to par on the power section.

Faulty cap or bad bridge?

Maybe a bad thermistor or varistor in the power box, maybe a bad 30 year old line filter?

Check the wall voltage first.

#3269 7 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Thanks I'll look into those things.
Speaking of THING, I've looked at so many pictures and found the THING flipper is adjusted differently. Some have it at rest against the guide rail while others have the rubbered flipper gapped from the rail. I currently have mine resting on the rail and more often than not when not using the flipper the ball will hit a ball guide and bounce to the outlane. The guides aren't bent and the table is level. Leads me to believe gapping is how it was meant to be. Confirm please.

Following the rail but even with it, not touching it.

#3273 7 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Just picked up a TAFG and could use some advice on how to best install the pin blades I have for the game? I also have the felt strips that go down the side of the play field but looking at the setup, it looks like I need to fully remove the play field. Am I wrong or is there a tip/trick?
Thanks,
Jeff

Removing the playfield is the best way, but you can still fo it.

There's a few vids on youtube you can watch.

#3276 7 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

The most feasible way to do the decals while the pf is installed is the wet method. Personally I hate using the wet method for graphics but for this setup it does make sense to do so. Take off the protective backing and shoot the hell out of it with Windex. This allows you to slide and re position the artwork around until you get it where you want it. Once applied then using a paper towel/cloth add some pressure to the decal and attempt to squeeze dry the decal.

Yes, all of the above but use rapid tac application fluid.

Windex dries out the glue a bit.

Rapid tac activates the glue for a better bond.

It keeps the edges from curling off down the road better.

Its actually worth the expense in my opinion.

That and the rapid tac adhesive remover. Cant live without them now after using them.

I've actually bought the rapid tac prep too.

It's a great wax and silicone remover that's non toxic.

#3278 7 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Got around to testing voltages today. The wall outlet voltage is good. Checked 3 prong plug and that's in good shape as well.
TP1 (+12v unregulated): 14.3
TP2 (+5v): 4.93 (surprised I'm not experiencing resets need to investigate that one of these days)
TP3 (+12v regulated): 12.03
I did take a business card and go between all the new contacts for flipper leafs and EOS's and also reseated all cables/connectors. I haven't had any weird flipper stuff happening since but I swear the lower right hand flipper is weaker than the rest. As previously stated everything is brand new on these flippers. EOS is adjusted correctly as well. After doing some research I see it mentioned a few times that the LM338 chip can cause flipper weakness. At this point I'm starting to look that way. Thoughts?

Bad/dirty coil sleeve.
Slight mushrooming in the plunger causing a slight stickiness.

Weak return spring causing flipper bounce, resulting in weak responsiveness.

Sticky cabinet button causing slow response etc..

#3280 7 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Hi and thank you for your assistance. Everything on your list (including buttons and cabinet leaf switches are 100% brand new.
I should also mention the plunger and/or link is not binding. The flipper also has a small amount of up/down movement (all flipper bats are brand new as well.
This has just got to be board related but where/what?

So you have fliptronics 1

Since you have flipper leaf switches.

If everything is new, I'd look for a connectivity issue.

Switch gap?
Loose contact on leaf?
Anemic contact in the harness?

Weirdness in the fliptronics board?

Lm339 or ba10339 chips go bad.

They are known to cause weakness.

Even corroded fuse holders cause intermittant weakness, though rare.

#3282 7 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Leafs switches are new, adjusted and the connector is soldered solid. I'll check for any corrosion though. I should mention the flipper was weak before the rebuild as well. I think I'll order a rotten dog fliptronics board. If it doesnt fix it itll be good to have a spare on hand anyway.

Good call.
I replaced my IJ fliptronics board with a rottondog and it made a big difference.

It also had a weak left flipper issue.

Snappier?
Better design?

Fairly inexpensive.

All I know is that it works really good.

#3290 7 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

No worries at all. I've seen some video's but for whatever reason my eyes don't seem to notice a difference so I'll keep looking...
Jeff

Leds flash on and off too hard and fast for a lot of titles.

Slowing down to a gentler fade works really well.

Some people like the harsh electric activity.

Others, who have played many games with incandescent bulbs find it distracting and annoying.

LEDOCD gives you control over LED behavior.

You can dial your LED's in perfectly with it.

Every game that has been upgraded to LED's should have it.

When a new game comes out today, the lighting effects are totally managed.

This management on older titles can really only be done with LEDOCD kit.

#3306 6 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Reporting back on the weak lower right flipper issue I was seeking help with.
Recap, every flipper and its associated playfield lower playfield part was replaced with all brand new parts and properly adjusted. Original problem still existed.
I just recieved the Rotten Dog fliptronics board. After installation and playing 10 games I'm happy to report the lower right hand flipper is indeed as strong as the rest now.
I hate when people don't report their fix/resolve.[quoted image]

That's what I did in my IJ.

Better, faster and more reliable than a 25 year old board.

And fairly low cost.

#3319 6 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

With all due respect, the "kind" of bulb you get shouldn't matter. The OCD boards do remove ghosting but the real selling point is getting rid of the sharp on/off nature and allowing natural fade. All I can say is DO NOT buy these boards if you have more than one pin. You'll seriously hate LEDs without it.

Absolutely agree.
Every led pin should have it.

1 week later
#3333 6 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

I contacted a mod asking about allowing me to attach a document and the answer was no. However he did mention PDF's are OK, I had no idea. So I just printed the DOC as an 8.5 x 11 PDF and "should" be print ready. Feel free to give it a whirl.[quoted image]

Really nice!
Works perfectly, more people should do this.

3 weeks later
#3360 5 months ago
Quoted from Ambro:

I read about the LCD OCD boards on this thread, did the research and bit the bullet. Now my TAF lightshow feels like it should. Pricey bit of kit but I would say it is in the top 3 mods to do, maybe even number 1. If you think your LEDs are a bit harsh or things don't look right give this board a go - you won't be disappointed.

In my opinion every game upgraded to LED's should have this level of control.
They are inexpensive for what they do.

#3368 5 months ago
Quoted from fswanson24:

Hello...maybe a dumb question, but what is the difference (if any) between an International version of TAF and Production game? Based on serial numbers format

The game is the same.

The voltages are different and the power box should be missing the service outlet. The main fuse is 5amps by code in europe.

All easily reversed if the game is reimported. The main fuse is 8 amps in the USA.

#3373 5 months ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Would i be stupid trading my Addams Gold #924 for a POTC CE? Even trade.

Yeah trade it.
I've had a couple, I'm over it.

1 week later
#3381 5 months ago
Quoted from harig:

Use loctite in the Screw tread

Blue loctite, or any blue thread locker. Permatex etc.

#3382 5 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

MS 8-32 x 5/8 P-PH-S-Ny"

8-32x5/8" Philip's pan-head stainless with loctite.

3 weeks later
#3396 4 months ago
Quoted from cconway84:

Excited to finally join the club! Found a local machine in terrific shape. Playfield tear down for cleaning / metal polishing and rebuilt with a color dmd, comet leds, titan rubber, new bookshelf, electric chair and thing kicker scoops. Trim is a beautiful antique gold.
Next up will be a ocd led board.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I do like the antique gold!

1 week later
#3403 4 months ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

I was just thinking this last night as I was under my TAF playfield. Can this be done?? Same issue for T2. Annoying!!

I think Chris st HEP has done it a few times.

2 weeks later
#3422 3 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Common issue with the 5V power supply. Kahr board will "fix". Or A new modern design power board like Rotten Dog gets rid of the issue.
I have Kahr daughter boards in 2 of my Bally pins. I have a Rotten Dog in 2. Problem solved.

Yep, other than rebuilding all the boards with new caps, chips and pins on 30 year old games.

This is a good solution if you want to play today and not have the game broken all the time.

#3424 3 months ago
Quoted from NPO:

And then when it starts resetting even with the Kahr board you can do it right - by properly diagnosing it and fixing the problem.
Had a Kahr board in mine and it still reset. Fixed it the right way and haven't looked back.

Yep, that's what I do.

2 weeks later
#3471 3 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

How much money do you have into that and how long is it going to take to pay it off? You're awesome for doing this, but no way in hell would I restore a TAF to that degree and put it on route. That title even if in pretty rough shape still commands coin if it plays well.

Lol

Fix 'em up, tear them down!

Rinse, repeat.

In the mean time its all about how they play.

Modern restorations play way better than brand new games ever did!

Well worth $1-$1.5 a game.

2 weeks later
#3495 80 days ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Question about the metal box thing's hand is in relation to the other box that houses the VUK. On mine, the two boxes are separate and there is a minor gap between them that the ball has to travel across. Sometimes, when thing takes the ball, the ball gets stuck between the gap. I had to increase the playfield angle to around 6.7-7.0 degrees to prevent this, sometimes it still hangs up but with a forward nudge the ball usually then goes into the VUK and sends the ball to the swamp. Is there supposed to be anything in between these two components to prevent this or are they installed incorrectly? I do not see any other screw holes in the plywood suggesting the boxes were changed and mismounted.
Thank you,

Hammer out any ball dents in the box. It has to be really flat inside.

2 weeks later
#3561 60 days ago
Quoted from MintIndeed:

We recently had a weird thing happen - we leveled our machine, with a play field tilt of 6.5, and the ball started getting stuck behind the Thing ramp (middle ramp). Anyone else run into this? How did you fix it?
We tried sticking a strip of foam in there (attached to the left "wall" and "floor", so that it's a little curved - sorry, away from my machine right now so I can't take a picture, but it doesn't work anyway), but that doesn't help. We're considering trying to set the left of the machine a little higher so that the ball will roll down more easily, or putting in a small wedge.

Level using the playfield itself with glass off.

1 week later
#3565 48 days ago
Quoted from dmesserly:

Just picked up an Addams. One issue is that the thing works fine but makes some noise in the gearing or motor when activated. Is there recommending servicing or anything to do to get rid of the noise?
Thanks,
Dave

Pull apart the motor/gearbox and service it, or replace it.

#3568 42 days ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

After a very long pause, I’m starting back on my Addams restore. I just made a big parts order, but didn’t see any ramp flaps available.
Does anyone know where I could pick some up? Pinbits looked to be out of stock. I’m only really needing the ones attached to the metal thing ramp, and the one in the shooter lane[quoted image]

cut your own with scissors, pinrestore.com

1 month later
#3646 3 days ago
Quoted from oradke:

Hi all! I have a problem with my TAF that I might need your help solving. After a THING lock, the machine occasionally wouldn't serve the next ball. Sometimes it is ejected into the shooter lane with a delay, sometimes not at all. I belive hitting the buttons repeatedly or punchign the rod helps, but it's not reproducable.
Trouble shooting so far:
- Swamp trough switches are fine (checked by throwing balls into the swamp while in test menu)
- after thing grabs the ball, I hear the knocks, then I see the ball roll through the swamp.
- After a direct swamp hit, balls are served without a hitch.
What am I missing? Is there another switch between THING and swamp?
Oliver

Sounds like a ball is hanging on a switch or a ledge.

#3649 3 days ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Hi all, I need help with a setting/feature that I can’t seem to turn off. Something happened that reset the game and erased the high scores about a little over a month ago. It’s been working fine now, thing is dialing himself back in, but when a game ends the game asks if we want to buy an extra ball??? I went into the settings and buy in is turned off, so wondering if it’s a different setting. Anyone know how to turn this feature off?

Did you check the battery holder on the CPU board? Do you still have batteries?
Most are corroded and the contacts are all cracked off.

#3656 10 hours ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

So two questions for the group! I’m a new TAF owner. Putting the game together, I found this
Metal plate in the cab. Not sure where it goes to. Owner thinks it May have been an extra when I shopped. Says it was there when he bought it.
Second is whoever owner in their prior life decided to install these disgusting Mylar patches near the flippers. Any way to remove them safely without damage to the mansion?
Thanks!!![quoted image][quoted image]

Freeze spray method for removing mylar works best. However there is always some slight risk.
Remove residual glue with rapid-tac adhesive remover.

Your inserts are sinking a little, so I would just leave the mylar until the playfield gets restored. Or work on it later if the mylar starts lifting or bubbling.

#3660 10 hours ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

there is a little lift on the right side...kinda why i want them both off

If you must...

There are a couple vids on this.

Freeze spray, plastic razor blade.

Use zero scraping. the flex of the mylar while lifting/pulsing the spray is all you need.

Spray, wait a few seconds, spritz a little at a time until the temp is -40 degrees.

It will "plink" off if you do it right. You are separating the mylar from the glue.

No pulling, no scraping, nothing....

Its fascinating and easy when you get a feel for it.

Good luck.

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