Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992Quoted from fattmatt1972:That comes down to poor soldering technique and should not happen.
If twisted and soldered correctly there should be no bits to poke through the finished and heat shrunk joint.
As I said I have been doing this for 35 years and my soldered heat shrunk joints are a thing of beauty, but again each to their own.At least we agree on that, it looks hideous.
Matt.
Quoted from jazc4:Matt, do you mind posting a few pics of how it should look and your technique. I have to admit my soldering and heat shrink doesn't look as neat as I would like. Thanks!
Yeah, I guess I could do that, sure.
It is 1:30am here atm in Oz so I won't be busting out the iron and cutters tonight, but I will take a few pics tomorrow of how I do it.
Matt.
keep in mind I have been doing heat shrinks for literally 4 days. I used the bigger one in this case, because I had a hard time getting the smaller ones over the soldering.
what setting do I need to put the dip switches in for the nvram for addams? If what I looked up was right, it should be 6264
404328017_10160794085120211_8254813641399816399_n (resized).jpgQuoted from snakesnsparklers:Yes set it for 6264. Two more flips needed (6116 and both 5101 should be off)
oh thank god. success. we are back.
we're back! and even BETTER... the Furkaken short is GONE!
Back to normal, thankfully.
HOPING, come december, I can get the switches working. replace that eject lane solenoid, and FINALLY...MAYBE...POSSIBLY....testing phase?
can I hope that much?
Quoted from Shredder565:this one is done with the smaller wire. does that look any better?[quoted image]
Yes, improved.
Quoted from transprtr4u:non judgmental.... but why so many cuts and splicing ?
these are for the wire lights. cut at the top gi level and cut in the middle gi level, and cut at the lower gi level.
Quoted from Shredder565:these are for the wire lights. cut at the top gi level and cut in the middle gi level, and cut at the lower gi level.
interesting approach !
Quoted from fattmatt1972:Yeah, I guess I could do that, sure.
It is 1:30am here atm in Oz so I won't be busting out the iron and cutters tonight, but I will take a few pics tomorrow of how I do it.
Matt.
well, you guys got your wish. left side GI had a short, so I'm going to have to redo 'em anyway as I track it down. might have one too many lights stringed in at the top :/.
this is the bottom left gi working and redone.
pinballinreno new heat gun worked perfectly.
404318907_10160794326550211_2702645066473324314_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:pinballinreno new heat gun worked perfectly.
Almost any job is pretty DIY with the right tools.
Quoted from hoby1:I have been doing this for 25 years and this is my favorite way using proper diameter heat shrink. See pics below
Less than 2 minutes start to finish
dang-damn.gifQuoted from Shredder565:pinballinreno new heat gun worked perfectly.
Yep, I use mine all the time, I like the little metal shield that blows hot air back up from the bottom.
It works very well and is versitile.
I use it mostly for Solderstick connectors, and the occstional old school (cut/strip/twist/cut shrink tube/solder/heat shrink tube etc), repairs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BP812YSK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00
No more twisting, soldering and then heat shrinking.
Soldersticks are a real life changer, simple and easy.
Suitable for high vibration areas like automotive or pinball.
One tool (stripper/cutter) and a little het gun for professional results.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yep, I use mine all the time, I like the little metal shield that blows hot air back up from the bottom.
You can even use the hot metal to tap areas down a little bit if you need to.
It works very well and is versitile.
I also use it for Solderstick connectors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BP812YSK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00
No more twisting, soldering and then heat shrinking.
I like soldering and find it to be a more professional joint. I also just use a regular Bic disposable lighter to heat the heat shrink
Quoted from hoby1:I like soldering and find it to be a more professional joint. I also just use a regular Bic disposable lighter to heat the heat shrink
Try the soldersticks. I was skeptical at first, but not any more.
I do a lot of automotive and pinball.
Soldersticks have replaced all of the crappy crimp connectors I used to use.
Rapidly being able to fix a broken wire under a seat, or upside down under a dashboard, or head deep in a pinball machine with a single tool?
Im sold on them.
I'll look into it. 
Bad ones fixed. Short found and eliminated.
So, here is where we are for when we resume in december.
SHORT from SWITCHES , GONE.
GI lights/ WORKING
Toppers are still a bit iffy, so might have to hook up the other flashers. but need to make a cord for it.
Solenoids, ALL working.
Wiring 60% shrink tubed. still a few more to go.
So, December, should be back to hooking up the new harness, one switch at a time.
Also, the tilt switch works perfectly, as does the plumb bob. so, good on the cabinet side.
FINALLY able to move forward.... stress levels reduced ten fold. can enjoy the holidays 
.
404304019_10160794413650211_1683784534079338221_n (resized).jpgI have many concerns about doing this.
1) It looks to be a pain in the ass and how do you work in tight areas
2) No mechanical connection like twisting the wires so you need extra stuff to hold them while you heat
3) Low temp solder.... hmmmm ???
4) Bulky ... I would not want to do 5 or 6 side by side and getting the exact fit especially if you have two or three wires on one end and 1 on the other
5) Heat guns by other wires or boards ..... that one is a big NO for me.
Use what ya like, im sticking with the old tried and true method . Best way there is if done properly.
Quoted from hoby1:I have been doing this for 25 years and this is my favorite way using proper diameter heat shrink. See pics below
Less than 2 minutes start to finish
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Very nice, almost identical to the way I do it except I twist it without the final fold you did but yours is every bit as good as mine.
IMG_20231123_085941146 (resized).jpgIMG_20231123_090103869 (resized).jpgIMG_20231123_090135812_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20231123_090234191 (resized).jpgIMG_20231123_090415062 (resized).jpg
Quoted from fattmatt1972:Very nice, almost identical to the way I do it except I twist it without the final fold you did but yours is every bit as good as mine.
that's more or less how I've been doing it. just the strands are not hugging each other as tight as they should be.
Quoted from Shredder565:curious as to why people don't use stake ons for these, since there is no diode?
Because in a pinball application: They suck.
Vibration and environment (if in the field), leading reasons.
Just for shits n giggles, an example with an inline diode.
Can leave it with the diode exposed but I prefer to do the last bit and cover the diode.
Matt.
IMG_20231123_103124113 (resized).jpgIMG_20231123_103314117 (resized).jpgIMG_20231123_103608676 (resized).jpgIMG_20231123_103800050 (resized).jpgIMG_20231123_103854602 (resized).jpgQuoted from hoby1:I have many concerns about doing this.
1) It looks to be a pain in the ass and how do you work in tight areas
2) No mechanical connection like twisting the wires so you need extra stuff to hold them while you heat
3) Low temp solder.... hmmmm ???
4) Bulky ... I would not want to do 5 or 6 side by side and getting the exact fit especially if you have two or three wires on one end and 1 on the other
5) Heat guns by other wires or boards ..... that one is a big NO for me.
Use what ya like, im sticking with the old tried and true method . Best way there is if done properly.
Well, Ok then!
Quoted from hoby1:I have been doing this for 25 years and this is my favorite way using proper diameter heat shrink. See pics below
Less than 2 minutes start to finish
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
My God. It's beautiful. I've been trying those cheater sticks. They do work but I've never really liked them for all the reasons you pointed out. This will be the way forward for me!
chris-farley-mind-blown.gifQuoted from fattmatt1972:Very nice, almost identical to the way I do it except I twist it without the final fold you did but yours is every bit as good as mine.
Yours looks like a lineman's splice, which is how I do it - taught to me by the Army as a communications soldier for repairing field telephone wire way back in the early 80's. Hard to break that habit.
Quoted from ReadyPO:Hard to break that habit.
Yeah, it is auto pilot now.
Can almost do it in my sleep, which I was half asleep this morning when I did it after a late-night binging Big Bet on Disney+.
I have seen a few different methods over the years, but I can't see a reason to change when it works well.
Like anything, once you do it enough times you get better at it.
TBH it's not rocket science, just takes practice and patience while you learn it.
Matt.
all the rest of the shrink tubes are done. I took out the lamp boards and cleaned out any spare wires or screws that might have gotten stuck (two where hiding in cousin it). secured all wires that where done so they don't move anywhere.
the only thing I forgot about where two flashers at the top, since I can't do the ones on the ramp yet. and that's these two. assuming this is the connection in the upper right. something for december.
so, too summarize.
short is gone. start button works, tilt works, flippers work, switch works, cabinet side is done. will need to see what the cloud gi flasher cable looks like and make that.
all Solenoids work. new coil for the eject lane didn't arrive today like it should have, so will save that for the next round.
all flashers work and all gi lights work, minus cloud toppers and two left flashers...
so, all in all, not in bad shape.
sometime late december after christmas, wire switch harness will go on one switch at a time. hoping to start the new year with testing phase, FINALLY, after soon to be four long years .
hope everyone had a good holiday .
404858935_10160796979005211_6018235585910107964_n (resized).jpg404882665_10160796978995211_6632271541080989777_n (resized).jpgQuoted from ryanbrooks:Getting better. But you gotta fix stuff like this before doing anything else. I know it’s painstaking, but shit gonna pay dividends
[quoted image]
Good eye!
yeah, missing screws on standups, untied wires near lamps and solenoids etc.
Lots of stuff to do on the playfield now, if the cabinet is 100%.
Getting the cabinet completely done is half the battle, in my opinion.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Getting the cabinet completely done is half the battle, in my opinion.
interesting perspective , when I did my first restore and removed all the harnesses from the playfield I thought the cabinet was the easy part !
Quoted from pinballinreno:Good eye!
yeah, missing screws on standups, untied wires near lamps and solenoids etc.
Lots of stuff to do on the playfield now, if the cabinet is 100%.
Getting the cabinet completely done is half the battle, in my opinion.
yes... I still have to get the GI lights soldered down properly. switched a few out, fixed others. and one or two solenoids still need sprucing up.
Quoted from transprtr4u:interesting perspective , when I did my first restore and removed all the harnesses from the playfield I thought the cabinet was the easy part !
Starting with a bare wood cabinet, drilling, testing fitment, sanding, painting, silk screening, decals or stencils, mounting hardware and securing cabling.
Testing power box, mounting the backbox boards, speakers and rebuilding the display panel.
Then testing the boards and booting up the game with display and sound.
Its a lot of work.
Doing a complete ground-up build is a lot of work.
Restoring a used cabinet and restoring a used playfield is a LOT easier to me. It takes me 1/3 of the time.
Even swapping to a new playfield is a lot of work due to the minor differences and fitting all the switches and mechs.
Not counting re-clearing...
Quoted from Shredder565:yes... I still have to get the GI lights soldered down properly. switched a few out, fixed others. and one or two solenoids still need sprucing up.
While you’re touching up lamp sockets, make sure all your switches and solenoids are wired properly.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Starting with a bare wood cabinet, drilling, testing fitment, sanding, painting, silk screening, decals or stencils, mounting hardware and securing cabling.
Testing power box, mounting the backbox boards, speakers and rebuilding the display panel.
Then testing the boards and booting up the game with display and sound.
Its a lot of work.
Doing a complete ground-up build is a lot of work.
Restoring a used cabinet and restoring a used playfield is a LOT easier to me. It takes me 1/3 of the time.
Even swapping to a new playfield is a lot of work due to the minor differences and fitting all the switches and mechs.
Not counting re-clearing
After reading this I forgot how much mine took as well ... bad memories of hours in the garage doing the cab and the head ..
Upvoted
Quoted from transprtr4u:After reading this I forgot how much mine took as well ... bad memories of hours in the garage doing the cab and the head ..
Upvoted
its not bad memories for me.
Just hours of hard work that Ill never get paid for, but beeds to be done
Quoted from Shredder565:all the rest of the shrink tubes are done. I took out the lamp boards and cleaned out any spare wires or screws that might have gotten stuck (two where hiding in cousin it). secured all wires that where done so they don't move anywhere.
the only thing I forgot about where two flashers at the top, since I can't do the ones on the ramp yet. and that's these two. assuming this is the connection in the upper right. something for december.
so, too summarize.
short is gone. start button works, tilt works, flippers work, switch works, cabinet side is done. will need to see what the cloud gi flasher cable looks like and make that.
all Solenoids work. new coil for the eject lane didn't arrive today like it should have, so will save that for the next round.
all flashers work and all gi lights work, minus cloud toppers and two left flashers...
so, all in all, not in bad shape.
sometime late december after christmas, wire switch harness will go on one switch at a time. hoping to start the new year with testing phase, FINALLY, after soon to be four long years .
hope everyone had a good holiday .
[quoted image][quoted image]
I don't recommend to use sockets with horizontal long legs for GI.
Next short is just a question of time.
Instead, use the original socket with miniature (and vertical) legs:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-11905
Quoted from Davi:I don't recommend to use sockets with horizontal long legs for GI.
Next short is just a question of time.
Instead, use the original socket with miniature (and vertical) legs:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-11905
Could he bend the existing legs 90 degrees?
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Could he bend the existing legs 90 degrees?
When you bend them there's a chance of cracking the insulator which will cause a short
Quoted from wallybgood:Hey 565
After soldering, always do a close inspection. All it takes is one of the seven strands of wire to come into contact with metal to create a problem. Note the switch wire on your bookcase.
Wally
[quoted image]
I'll double check it.
as for the lights, I had ones that where going straight up before, but for whatever reason, the comet lights just did not sit stable in them. maybe because the light 'skirt' was about double the length of the ones I have on there now.
Quoted from Davi:I don't recommend to use sockets with horizontal long legs for GI.
Next short is just a question of time.
Instead, use the original socket with miniature (and vertical) legs:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-11905
just put in an order. couldn't find these on marco, so went with what I Thought would be the next best alternative.
spent better part of an hour trying to clean these lamp legs up a little.
still need to fix up a bunch of the gi lights next.
only wanted to do it once, so used the bigger ones just to make sure it got over it fine.
406181554_10160800929700211_2944787205408896500_n (resized).jpg406199264_10160800929720211_6143692940146850061_n (resized).jpg
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