(Topic ID: 257696)

Addams Family - Scratch Build?

By Shredder565

4 years ago


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  • Ambitious 117 votes
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  • will be undone by a official remake in a few months..:) 27 votes
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#1 4 years ago

Howdy...

first post here...

Not new to the fan Build stuff.

I've built an all Metal RC 1 r2D2 from parts found online. I've built a C3P0 1. and just finished a 1 KITT Dash electronics install (still missing a few parts).

But, I'm looking for a new project for 2020. and after seeing a few playfield builds online, I feel like Building a mostly new Addams Family from scratch is something I can do.

So, barring this thing getting a re release (arcade 1up or someone else) in 2020 or beyond.... here is what I plan to get sometime next year.

a Cabinet... this is the first one I've found that seems new. https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=136

Artwork and 'cloud' top... -https://www.pinball.co.uk/game-specific-parts/addams-family-gold/cabinet-artwork-set-addams-family/

a Playfield.. - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/36-20017 and DMD setup....as well as DMD Border...

And a Back Glass https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/taf-backglass/

I would at least like to get a machine LOOKING like the machine...so as to inspire me to keep going. and get most of the expensive parts first and out of the way.

From what I've seen on youtube, assembling the playfield mostly requires alot of drilling and screwing. Easy enough so long as I know exactly where everything has to go and what size drill bits to use. hopefully covered in the instruction manual.

I think the ONLY thing I will have an annoying time with, even if I find one in tact, is the wiring harness. even an intact harness looks like a complicated mess...and I'll be shocked if I ever get the thing properly wired up. But, at least if I can get everything else assembled, and looking like a real pinball machine, I figure the wiring harness will be the least problematic thing to worry about in the end. a nd the last thing I do.

This will be a fun project for all of 2020 I think. And a miracle if I ever get the whole thing done.
My last arcade project was a custom machine that was meant to be portable. so I could drag it in front of any tv I had around....and had an old jrock video converter attached to it for VGA connection hookup. with the advent of Arcade 1up, i no longer need that anymore. but I doubt Arcade 1up will ever do pinball recreations... sothis seems like a logical next project .

What I could REALLY use to help start things off, is a part list. every part I need to buy in a handy dandy check off item list. I know I'll need ramps, bumpers, flippers, kickouts, thing, thing box, electric chair, etc.....the OCD in me likes to have things itemized so I don't miss anything

thanks for any help

#5 4 years ago

first part orders -

Manual.
ball shooter
Start Button.

Let the madness begin Hoping by this time next year it will be close to looking like a game

#9 4 years ago

I guess I always could buy a project machine. I still havn't 100% commited yet...but I'm about 85% close to it. I'd like to see how much I can get done new..and then worry about how much I have to source.

but yeah, the wiring harness, either new, home made, or sourced, looks like a total pain to assemble either way. and will probably be my least favorite part. but at least if I attempt it from scratch, if the proper cables, already terminated, exist....it might make it a little less painful.

#13 4 years ago

[img]https://scontent.fewr1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/10629574_10152751287760211_5263150426889998713_n.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_ohc=q9lXKCMDfl0AQlA1ExUBK6hYFMlBfKIBeWpY1NrqpvTKxLOfJYvRKMfWg&_nc_ht=scontent.fewr1-2.fna&oh=a20b36c25467dddfa5644a718e366bb4&oe=5EB346C3[/img]

An older picture of My home built R2 (With parts from astromech). the Crow was bought pre built online, I didn't do that one . R2 cost a bout $8,000 and is all metal. So if I can do TAF for that or less...I'd consider it a steal

#14 4 years ago

Well, I commited.

I ordered the cabinet above.

I think what I will try and do is get the cabinet looking right first.. and THEN concentrate on the playfield, which seems to require the most work. I plan to order a B/W DMD, the speaker artwork, the back glass, and the overlays next. at the very least I can start with a complete looking outer cabinet. the playfield will be ordered next year.

Is there no reason why I shouldn't go with an $800 version over a $1200 version? TaF, along with ST TNG are my all time favorite pins. so if by some miracle I can get this thing working and playable, no matter the cost, it will be well worth it.

#17 4 years ago

I take it there is no way I can transfer my Wizards of WOR one to TAF? the old arcade cab is coming apart and it still works heh.

If not, I may just take up that offer .

#22 4 years ago

I was actually hoping for an anniversary TAF to be run, even if it was an annoying limited quality. But, barring that, this seems like my best option.

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Some got big balls but yours are Huge. I am following and wishing much success.

I am also very bored . I NEED projects to keep me entertained, and this seems much easier than working my KITT dash into a fully functional car. The goal is to have a mostly complete cabinet done by April. and a as new as I can get it playfield done by this time next december. I know that will obviously take longer.

#25 4 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

No. Each boardset generation typically has its own transformer with the necessary voltages and designed for the proper current draw.

I was betting on that being the case, but it never hurts to ask .

#30 4 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

My boredom started when I could no longer perform my job after a terminal illness diagnose and I became on a fixed income. So no funds. I am doing little projects around the house that don’t require a lot of money or man power. It helps but soon they will run out then what ? More boredom. Lol

MY boredom states from the fact that all my friends are married. and at this point it feels like I'll be forever single. So, once I go home, I have nothing to do, unless I play the same old Video games over and over again, or watch the same old movies. Hence, I like having projects around to keep my mind busy... and OCD/Anxiety at bay

#32 4 years ago

Personally, I was holding off for a remake. I would love to buy a brand new machine, either full size, or the smaller more modern pinball size. But, since it didn't seem like that was going to happen, I'd much rather go the 'new' route.

I also want to know how everything all goes together. from the bottom up. If something goes wrong, it'll make it easier to trouble shoot if it ever gets fully working.

I also don't plan on selling it when it's done/if it gets done. This machine was played EVERY summer until they got rid of it at Barnacle Bills in the Jersey Shore...so it has special meaning to me. so whatever it costs, I'm keeping it around.

and as stated before, when you live alone, and still live at home, only paying for what you use, you tend to have the funds to spend on passion projects (one upside for not having the joy of a family of your own, I guess). so, even if it takes me 3 years (like with R2), I'm willing to save up to get it done right.

#36 4 years ago

Cabinet ordered
-Back Glass ordered
-Manual ordered
-Plunger ordered
- start button ordered

In January,
-Power Supply from user on here
-Play Field
-Coin Door
-Decals

Are there any good resources around to try and setup a complete cabinet, minus playfield? It feels like it should be straightforward enough...but some pictures and wording might help

#38 4 years ago

I found two.

It looks like I'll need 4 or 5 boards for the backboard. I'm assuming one houses the roms. one probably does sound, another lights. Lots of info to look up on there. Arcades only have one jamma board to deal with.

The Lamp Board looks easy enough to setup. once I find the parts. It looks like in the cabinet bottom, I'll need the transformer, the 'plug attachment' sitting near the plunger, cables for the start button, cables for the plug to the wall, cables to run up the back box (including a loom that I have on my Proton pack to cover them up)......all in all, the Cabinet itself seems straight forward enough.

Just have to be careful to do it right the first time and make sure I find all the proper install photos I can before I attempt it.

#41 4 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Honestly, building a game from scratch really shouldn't be your first foray into pinball. You really should at least try repairing one first to gain some hands-on familiarity with the boards, parts, and the theory of operation. That could help prevent some costly mistakes/errors from happening if you wire things up incorrectly.

Sometimes I learn best by just fordging in.

I taught myself how to do CGI/Animation work with no previous training.

R2 was a build with no previous training (and only one major mistake with painting the frame that caused some irrepairable damage).

While I agree with your statement, with this I plan to go SUPER SUPER slow and not rush into it. I plan to do all the easy looking stuff first like back glass and transformer install and plunger install and decals....and then try and research the rest of it.

I know it's not the best way to do it, but I ALWAYS amaze myself how good stuff looks when it's done. most noteably with R2. that moves via RMC, and I've never dealt with any RC stuff before that either.

#44 4 years ago
Quoted from ryanbrooks:

Great Plains electronics for connectors and pins. You’re going to do a lot. Buy quality a quality crimping tool and strippers. Practice before you dive in. If you’re going to do it, do a color DMD. It’s the same price as a regular DMD and controller PCB.

When I was working on R2, I bought my first tool box and all high quality parts. including a crimper, stripper, solder iron, etc. so yeah, that one's taken care of already

I was looking into the Color DMD. While it looks nice, it doesn't look 'right' to me. all the machines I've ever seen had B and W DMD's and that's what I'm used too. Although it's not off the table yet.

#45 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Wiring harnesses can be done.
3rd Coast pinballdoes them by hand iirc. His thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-wire-and-harnesses#post-5053081

If you have a wiring diagram, it looks like something that you just need to go super slow at and take your time with. Even if it takes months and looks like a pain in the arse. I also work in an electricians office, so I have a warehouse of supplies at my disposal and wiring experts .

#47 4 years ago
Quoted from ryanbrooks:

You can set the color DMD to orange dots for the original look.

hmmm..maybe I will put it on the table then if you get the best of both.
to me, the classic play is the original 'B/W' but color is a nice option .

#58 4 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Someone let him know. He’s forging ahead anyways. I admire his ambition.

ambition..stupidity, ignorance... take your pick .

all I know is, the satisfaction of getting something seemingly impossible done is the best drug in the world sometimes for someone with not much else going on .

#62 4 years ago
Quoted from Eric_S:

See post above. You will spend way more on parts than the game will be worth or what you could buy a used one for. I'm not trying to dissuade you, but go in to it with eyes wide open that this project will be a money pit, not to mention all of your time too.

Time is definitely NO problem.

Part of the reason I decided on this as a 2020/beyond project is because of the time it will take. When you have OCD and Anxiety, extra projects help calm the mind and make life go a little easier, even when things go wrong, like when R2 almost caught fire due to a wire being wrong . but, even that didn't stop it from being finished almost $8,000 later for all 'military grade' aluminum parts.

I am definetly keeping a record of parts and where they where brought and will keep the tally up to date.
So far,

- WPC Standard Body Replacement Cabinet - Fully Trimmed $1,599.95 +shipping
- Backglass, Mirrored, standard color. $303
- Start Button, Manual, Plunger - $86's.

Color DMD will be close to $300
Topper will be around $200
Playfield will be around $1,000 (assuming there is no good reason not to save money on an $800 version)
Transformer will be $400
Plastics closer to $200

And those are all purchases for January. including the playfield glass cover. and DMD/speaker cover.

When you live by yourself/with family, you only pay for what you use.. including food, cable/internet, doctors, prescriptions, etc. So, while money isn't in exhastable, it's not so tight that I can't spend stuff on passion projects to keep me busy.

#68 4 years ago
Quoted from ryanbrooks:

Everyone that’s telling you to find a donor machine is giving you really good advice because they’ve probably taken on a similar project to this. Just because it’s labeled a “donor” doesn’t mean you’re going to rob anything off it. It should really be your “reference” machine. What online threads and pics and manuals can’t do that a donor machine is very simple-the donor machine will quickly show you how your wire harnesses need to be laid out and routed. Having it right in front of you for first hand reference will save you MONTHS of painstaking work. I totally get needing to occupy your time to preserve sanity and the joy of learning and accomplishment-especially the accomplishment of such a daunting task. But the reference machine will help keep you from getting discouraged should you make an early fatal flaw that doesn’t show itself until you’re in the final assembly stages.

Yep, I know and understand.

there is two problems
-1, what do you do with the donor machine if you wind up taking parts off of it to use? that's alot of money spent with extra parts left over, and it'd be a shame to throw them out.

-The cost. if don't use parts or just for the reference, what do yhou do with the extra machine?
I def understand that it'd be easier to follow the harness wiring with it right in front of you.

a Donor machine is not off the table. it's just the extra space, what to do with it when done, and the extra cost that would make it one of the last things done when needed.

-- these guys seem to have some of the boards needed like fliptronics. http://mad-amusements.com/category.php?id_category=25

#70 4 years ago
Quoted from ryanbrooks:

Don’t use it as a donor. Just a reference.

If I could find one for a decent price. I guess I can always resell it later for someone looking for a project machine.

but, like stated, it's going to be the last thing on the list. I want to buy all the parts I need/can find first before I even think about assembly. that's going to take more than a few months of saving.

I guess I can get my color DMD from here. requires a software upgrade but those usually arn't too hard.
http://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-for-addams-family-pinball-machine/

#72 4 years ago
Quoted from Chisox:

Yup, Wally is the man in this area. Amazing skills and a top-notch guy.

PM sent and info sent over for group joining

just for ha ha's...this was my last 'simple' project for my arcade design. a silly custom built machine that was meant to be portable and hooked up to any TV around.

#74 4 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Cutting on a rolling dolly!?

when you have limited space I guess you use what you have . never said it was a professional build....or that we have the shop set up for wood cutting . it's a warehouse for storage

and we got the whole thing done with no injuries

#78 4 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:Yout can always resell what you don't need. But building from scratch, there probably wouldn't be much left over.

Do a Google search for mad amusements. It's better to avoid that one, as well as their account *pinballparts* on ebay.

I was wondering about that. are there any black listed, or sellers I should avoid? there are always a few in the hobby business...right now i'm just google searching part keywords to see what pops up.

#81 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:Where are you located? I’ll have a used WPC widebody cabinet up for sale soon.

that would be north east new jersey, bergen .

#87 4 years ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

In the middle of a TAF playfield swap. I wouldn't wish building this wiring harness on my worst enemy.[quoted image]

yeah. even with a diagram for one from scratch, or a complete wire harness at my disposal, i have a feeling that will be my least favorite part of the build...

#96 4 years ago

rotesserie DOES look cool... I'm not sure if I have the space for that and the cabinet though....I'll have to move my 1 slimer just to fit the cabinet in nicely.

But, I can see how it DOES come in handy, so it might just have to go on the list.

Is it possible to get a decent donor machine for $5,000 or under?

If I don't part it, I guess I can sell it to a co worker who loves arcades. If I do part it, maybe I can ebay off the remaining stuff.

#98 4 years ago

hmm, those are all small enough in price that I can afford 'em now. so may just have to order.

I want to get the Playfield, the DMD, the playfield glass, the Topper and Plastics all by the end of january..but those are the higher priced items, some of them.

#100 4 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Depending on your location, yes.

hmm, that gives me some hope at least.

But, as stated, that'd be the last thing to get after I source all the parts I can new or used. I want to buy everything I can first, before I even think about assembling .

#104 4 years ago
Quoted from Tommy-dog:

YES: I sold a decent working TAF about 3 years ago when I was moving for $3200.
I still think your better off not building a TAF unless you can get an almost complete wired playfield from someone. TAF is just too complex of a playfield to custom make parts for. There was a lot of TAF made (over 20K) so it is not a hard to find game. Even operators in the late 1990's parted them out. Wired playfields are out there and it would be your best option to find one.

THat is a pretty decent price that i'd be willing to pay for a donor, actually. I'll have to be on the lookout.

#106 4 years ago
Quoted from RandyW:

If you are going to the trouble of building one from scratch... do NOT use decals for the cab. This was painted on the originals and decals.... suck. Plus it will reduce the value.
However, I think you are nuts

I've been called worse .

How would one go about getting as close to the original look if decals are out?
My painting skills are lackluster, even with rotoscoping

#109 4 years ago

that's allooot of wire to source.... :/

The first parts have arrived

aprts (resized).jpgaprts (resized).jpg
#115 4 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

And only 10,000 more to go.

the longest journey starts with a single start button

#121 4 years ago

One factory video I did manage to find. the reporter was a bit...clueless?

also this

#122 4 years ago

Ordered some bumper part sets, since they where cheap enough. holding off till January 1st to order playfield and dmd.

current cost spent - around $1811.

Playfield will be around $1,000, DMD around $300. I found a complete NOS bookcase assembly for $500 that I might just have to get.

#126 4 years ago
Quoted from FrankJ:

Time for a poll: what will happen first? Shredder finishes or Chicago Gaming builds remakes.

knowing how my luck works?

I bought an Alan -1 Star Wars Reproduction yoke HQ remake. I hadn't yet built a container for it for gameplay, when Arcade 1Up announced their cabinet a few months later.

oh well. The satisfaction of completing a difficult task will make the hurt go away fast .

#128 4 years ago

I saved the wiring list posted above for later buying reference. I'm not quite sure what part/section I'll start with first.
But I agree, after the wiring, everything else will at least LOOK easy.

#135 4 years ago

I can see what you mean by it'll go fast if one pops up .

I was looking at a few build guides again today.

The Chair Bracket install and chair install seems rather straightforward. As do the left and right bumpers. a few posts, and lights and light covers, plus plastic covers....Once I know I have all the right parts, and see photos on how it's done, i'm almost certain I can get a complete playfield at least setup. that part doesn't scare me (yet)...but the wiring...ugh....that absolutely scares me. and If I can get as far as a complete playfield, I may take months of break before I even think about the wiring, heh.

#138 4 years ago
Quoted from wlf_:

Seems like the consensus is that this is a crazy endeavor, but man, does this dude got some chops. Bet he walks into a Toyota dealership, checks out the Land Cruisers or whatever, and says, "nah, thanks, imma make my own." Has to ride his bike home, but doesn't get a F!

this will either be the biggest failure of all time, or the greatest success story of the year. I'm rather hoping of the latter ..

#151 4 years ago

I asked the same question myself a while back...

a few builds I've found have all used decals.

I think tommorow I'm just going to order the playfield and get that out of the way. with my back glass coming next week, hopefully my virtua cab in a few weeks (how long do those take from order?) and the playfield, maybe I can at least pretend to play pinball as I order some of the 'cheaper' parts along the coming months ..

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=GS-20&Product_Code=PPS-31-1002-50038-HCP

#153 4 years ago

My manual arrived...

already useful. I know how many lamps I need, how many posts I need ...and that was just a quick skim through.

My bumpers also came today.

The building Bug is here

#164 4 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Every time Pinside tries to dissuade the OP, he gets more excited about it. I’m cheering the guy on for a task I would never partake myself.

mostly because I see an impossible/but possibly do-able task ahead of me. and when it gets completed/if it gets completed, it's all the more confidence I get...which is sorely needed these days .

I didn't think I could build a 1 1 scale RC R2 unit, but I did it anyway

And if I listened to people who told me NOT to 'waste' money on a $400 DVD camcorder, I never would have become an insider helping out first PLJ and now CBS FM with recording events for video archiving.

So, for me, it's mostly about, what can I do? not what can't I do..

#169 4 years ago

For the Boards, I don't mind going aftermarket and used. I'm used to that with Jamma board hunting.

I found a WPC Driver board for $300 I'll get after the playfield buy next week. I also found the fliptronic boards. that just leaves 5(?) more to find...

#171 4 years ago

i'm not saying there isn't a chance this can't be done. or that it might break me and my love of pinball in a few years....

but, I'm up for the challenge of TRYING.

Other things people said I was crazy for trying. trying to reproduce a 20 minute animated episode that took a team of 100+ professionals 6 months to do. I've since done 5 of them just by myself, with 0 help, and taught myself from scratch the art of animation.. with still a long way to go. I did and learned everything at the same time...coloring, modeling, animation, lighting. rigging....shape setups...all without a clue how to do it before.

I approach every new crazy sounding project like that. there's a chance it can get completed, and there is a chance it won't be completed. but the fun is in trying.

#192 4 years ago

I've been saving every build picture I can find so far, so it's a start . What I would love to find is just an old playfield that's complete for sale. no cabinet. Then I can see how it all goes together up close and start figuring nout how to tackle it.

A Rotisserie is also not off the table. I just don't know if I have the space for it AND the Pinball machine with 3P0, R2, Darth Vader and Slimer all in the same work space taking up one corner.

As for the wiring harness... after looking at all the pictures I could find, I was thinking along the same lines as >>>
I dunno maybe I’m crazy but the wiring harness doesn’t seem like that crazy of a thing to make. Once the bottom is fully populated and its on a rotisserie. You don’t have to fully replicate every wire color if you make your own chart while you build either. Use wire tags with the original color codes at both ends. Set a goal to do # wires a night and stick to it. Eventually it will be flowing.>>>

this post. Although, I WOULD want to do correct wire colors just so I don't have to make my own diagram. keeps things less confusing that way.

But first, it's all about ordering parts and seeing what I can find new. once that avenue has been fully explored, it'll be about seeing what I can find used. first step will be getting as many parts as possible in hand first. then we'll see about how to tackle assembly .

#199 4 years ago

my bumpers arrived .

81497894_10157540083930211_4415771046565642240_n (resized).jpg81497894_10157540083930211_4415771046565642240_n (resized).jpg
#204 4 years ago
Quoted from Williampinball:

Sweet did you get all 5 of them

With Proper colors no less .

Really hoping to get the playfield this weekend...and some more parts in february, including the transformer.

#209 4 years ago
Quoted from thedarkknight77:

Now that my conscience is clear and I have warned you about losing your shirt on this insane endeavor, I feel like I can fully enjoy the glory of this thread. Thank you for attempting such an insane project in public.......why am I thanking you, because we have all thought about it, but didn’t have the balls (pinballs) to do it! This thread should be epic!! Please post as many picture as possible! I am already hooked!

Only if it gets completed, and I don't have a project with about 1/3rd the parts sitting around, with a rather complete looking outer facade but nothing on the inside

hell, I love the game so much even that would be cool to have ;o).

#216 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

When the new pf turns up the first job will most likely be to hammer in the t nuts, but there are usually 2 different sizes so will need to use the correct t nut in the correct hole Which might be hard without a ref. Hopefully some one can say what goes where.

Yep, one of the first videos I saw, that was the first thing they did. So that'll at least be the first thing I do

And to the other poster, don't worry, I know this won't be cheap .

#227 4 years ago

If I where to buy a Rotisserie, how much are they and what is a good place to go too?

#231 4 years ago

building one does seem like a cheaper solution . i'll add that to the list when the time comes

#236 4 years ago

Mirrored backglass ... yay

Stupid computer issues set the playfield ordering back a week or two. hoping that is next.

81358624_10157560171330211_2074212356333764608_o (resized).jpg81358624_10157560171330211_2074212356333764608_o (resized).jpg
#238 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

1 or 2 more parts and your done

shouldn't cost more than $200's a piece... I'll be playing pinball by the weekend!

#240 4 years ago
Quoted from ryanbrooks:

So, have you started sourcing wire for your harness?

Not yet.

The wiring will be the last peices I'll worry about.

I want to get the playfield first by end of January.

February will see order of transformer, Color DMD, THING speaker panel, Complete Plastics Set...Thing Hand and Bear Ramp.

after that, we'll have to see what is available left. probably some scoops, chair bracket...chair..etc.

#248 4 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Both have their own set of issues. I have a friend who does restoration swaps for a living and he actually tells people he charges extra for CPR swaps. a friendly suggestion, if you plan on keeping it then send it to HEP to get properly drilled and nutted. And personally if I was going to do that step I'd have him clear coat it as well but only if I WAS SURE it would eventually be used because you'll likely never get your investment back out of it as a barren playfield.

Unless Otherwise I shouldn't, I was going to go with the middle option, Silver.
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/taf/

The only other one was a $1,000 marco specialties, IIRC...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/36-20017

obviously more expensive. I think there was a $1,000 option floating around out there too..but If I can save $300's..again, is there any reason I shouldn't get the CPR one?

#267 4 years ago

So, I'm wondering something. Even though I fully intend to do a real pinball...

Has anyone done a virtual playfield connected to a real top backboard? that would be the second best option. But I guess for that I'd need a wide body....so out of luck there ;o)...

just thinking about stuff while looking at images online

-2
#288 4 years ago
Quoted from dirkdiggler:

The OP is already talking about a vp now? I starting to think this project will never happen. He'll acquire a few parts and that's it. Seen it numerous times with expierenced pinheads stocking up parts and boards to build a Indy or TZ only to find one, then abandon plans on the build. I even sent him a lead on a cpr gold TAF playfield and crickets....Just my .02 cents.

Because I'm not doing a gold, sir. all original game parts. i'm not even going to get the gold rom

#291 4 years ago
Quoted from Jaybird815:

CPR has a playfield rating system, silver, gold etc., I believe he is referring that the one up for sale is a CPR gold not for an Addams gold edition

ahh, my mistake then. there are so many places to get playfields, and it looks like only that one has the gold/silver/ rating system. I just automatically assumed it was a Gold playfield.

I'm still getting my metal legs under me, so please 'bear' with me ;o)...
Besides, I won't be able to afford a playfield until at least next week. and that's assuming my giant Ecto1 figure from Sideshow doesn't charge on the 20th after a 6 month delay.

#299 4 years ago

I try not too listen to naysayers.

It's entirely possible this may not get completed. May I direct your attention to KITT. An almost completed dash (I have since added the two monitors and fixed the position of some of the lights. .)

I just can't justify the money to buy a car to put it in..considering allth e work a used car would probably need.

A Pinball, however, I would play every day.
72121482_10157417647000211_6133084140431474688_o (resized).jpg72121482_10157417647000211_6133084140431474688_o (resized).jpg

As for wire, we have a wire sales guy here at work, Next time he shows up... I will give him the list posted here a while back and see what he might be able to round up.

#312 4 years ago
Quoted from Williampinball:

What's new with the TAF. Any new parts coming in

Ordered the cabinet a month ago.. it's still 'qued for production' sadly.

plan to order the playfield next week.

after that, I want to get the bear ramp. thing, Things box, the transformer, the color dmd and the dmd 'thing cover'.

#320 4 years ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

I assume that you are having them build a TAF cabinet with the backbox and decals, right? If not, you should. They can handle drilling all of the correct holes and assembling everything correctly.

Yep. hoping it can get here before May at least .

although 3P0 parts took a year to wait and kitt parts a year and a half heh.

#323 4 years ago

speaking of the backboard lightbox, what material is it made of? also, does anyone have a 1 : 1 schematic of the holes needed to be cut for the lights? maybe that is an easy custom part to start with.. I cna just print the printout on the ricoh large document printer, paste it over the material and drill the holes.

#326 4 years ago
Quoted from wallybgood:

Hey 565
TAF Insert Panel measures 25 13/16 x 16 15/16 inches, 1/2 inch MDF. Template attached. Align at bottom right. Cutout at the bottom is not necessary. Will clear ColorDmd if cut straight across.
Wally
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

what size hole saw do I need? also, what type are the lights?

maybe this is one part i can start with .

#327 4 years ago
Quoted from Stretch7:

Just made a couple.. not too bad to make.
Have an extra one if interested. Next up to make are speaker panels and bottom u trim speaker panel sits in.[quoted image]

how much would it be?

would like to try it myself first if possible just to get my feet wet

#337 4 years ago
Quoted from Stretch7:

Not sure what to put a price on it as i wasnt doing for resale but if you want you can have it for $30 but with shipping from canada might not make sence price wise.
If you do decide to make them and need some measurement just let me know.
Pictures above are just with primer.....i painted them with a gloss white yesterday

yeah., I'm wondering if the price would be about te same trying to make it verse just buying a really well done one already..
I do have all the tools needed to make one though..minus the lights themselves...

I'll pm you my address and maybe we can see what final costs would be shipping via us/can conversion rate.

#338 4 years ago

New Part ordered!

Must be my lucky day today. Got my bank credit limit increased, and was able to afford a classic playfields the addams family.

Even better, they had TWO gold in stock now. so, I got one and it's finally ordered

#341 4 years ago
Quoted from Passave:

I am thinking Stretch laid a golden egg at your feet friend...That hole placement is quite game specific, and even as a pattern very reasonable for what he did.

I decided to give it a buy, as it's probably alot smoother than what I could make .

Also got an update on my virtua pin cab. thanks guys .

#350 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

I’m all for trying — but it does seem like the OP wants to do it his way, regardless of most advice from others.. some of which I’d say is pretty logical.. like checking off near-ubtanium parts first to ensure other efforts and funds aren’t spent in vein. End goals can be reached in many ways I suppose. We shall see... I guess having a play field and cab sitting in your house could be very motivating as well to an end goal!

case in point...

just checked out to see how many of the playfields where left out of curiosity. not only are the golds gone, but the other two are all gone as well.

I checked in at just the right time to be able to nail one.

And it's not like i'm ignoring advice. I decided on a color dmd..even though I really wanted a B/W one since that is what I'm used too. I'm still thinking about making a rotisserie , I still plan on getting T-Nuts and installing them first.I'm staying away from the bad hobby sites mentioned...i'm ordering some of the light fixtures posted above for the back light. i'm ordering the back light board from here.

Personally, I'd rather get all I can get NOW, FIRST. THEN worry about the harder parts. at least I can install what I have once I know how to properly do it and feel like i'm making some progress.

#353 4 years ago
Quoted from newtoit:

Im not saying he doesnt have the ability to build it, I am suggesting he not go into further debt over it.

Not going to go into debt over it. i always pay my bills on time and only buy when I get things taken care of. I know how to manage finances .

I was just happy to increase the credit line so I have a little more lee way for bigger parts.

should a complete playfield happen to pop up for under $3,000, I can afford it now to help with some parts.

#358 4 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

I have to agree. All of the folks that have done "scratch builds" didn't do them as their first foray into pinball. I want you to succeed and accomplish this, but the video you posted to show your technical prowess with you cutting on a roller cart was certainly not convincing.

1- that wasn't me cutting

2- that wasn't meant to be a professional build. just a fun side project.

And even with that, the project still came out just as I hoped it would and got years of use out of it until arcade 1up came along...

#362 4 years ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

Shredder
If you feel like coming to Trumbull to get it, you can borrow my rotisserie. It’s one like vids
Bob
I could also meet you in White Plains during the day

I appreciate the offer.

White plains isn't too bad aride. IF I decide to get one, it'll be the LAST peice purchased when assembly is set to begin. I don't see that happening for a while.

I just bought the LAST part for the month. Decals. That's it for January Buying.

A few weeks of saving...and around the 21st, the next round of stuff will get bought. The transformer from here, the Color DMD, some flippers, the plastics set, a ramp, some scoops, and some electronic boards. as well as the topper.

Looks like my cabinet might get here in a few weeks too . will be a thing of beauty. and my playfield gets here monday.

#364 4 years ago
Quoted from Passave:

Decals can be quite intimidating the first time, and not a lot of good usable information on the subject since it is a skill based experience thing... I would however highly recommend RapidTac on a painted/sealed cab.

VP was kind enough to offer to put them on, so they are going shipped directly to the pro's .

#366 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

shredder565
Don't worry about wire ramp. If you can't find it in the future, I can help about repro.
An example here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/90#post-5060442

I was using this part down time to go through the manual to help familairize myself with part names and locations and to see just how much assembly some stuff needs to be required.

Just for ha has, I see a few people have had the wire ramps reproduced.

If the price is reasonable, I'd be interested in the future, heh.

#367 4 years ago

So, I can start playing now, right? where do I put the coin on this thing ;o)

One of two of the last January buy parts arriving today.

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#369 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

Yup pretty much, looks like your in the home stretch! pretty playfield! You’re keeping your eyes out for unobtainium parts In the mean time right?

trying too. although parts I think are rare turns out not to be so much. I just havn't found 'em yet.
would be nice to have a list of what folks think are rare to start with .

Look at what arrived yesterday. the last of the january buy parts. some scoops and knock three times

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#372 4 years ago

Decals should arrive at virtua pin tomorrow. if tracking is right. thanks for that!

Can't wait to see how this thing looks . will be well worth the wait.

Middle of February, I will secure the transformer, and a new main ramp. End of February, the Color DMD. a complete set of Targets and Plastics. and the Thing cover DMD cover.

#374 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Don’t forget the tnuts once those are in you can start adding a few posts here and there and start on the pops, oh and the pf rails have you sourced those yet?

I've found a few bigger items on the list.

Not rare, apparently, but I've found complete flipper assemblies, for instance. One Ball Guide.

I guess I can also order the posts and the t Nuts, although I REALLY don't want to start assembling things until I've at least got 50% of it found. And I'm for sure not touching anything until I see how it properly gets installed....especially if any extra drilling needs be done. I only get one shot most likely to make everything fit right and I don't want to screw it up.

#375 4 years ago

looking up TNut info. it appears I need 8-32 and 6-32 sizes..
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-8-32x1-Thread-Barrel-Length/dp/B079329C2R/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1
is this right for 8-32? seems there are more of these than the 6-32

#379 4 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

Jason Wilson that owns game galaxy in Nashville TN just listed a addams parts lot for sale. You should yell at him

did a few hours ago and sadly taken .

I found a 6-32 t nut over a t marco. Will double check the proper settings before getting some.

Decals arrived safley at Virtua Pin. Will probably wind up getting a THING Speaker cover from them too..

#380 4 years ago

OK, so here is where we stand with the wire. My Wire Guy at the office saw the pinball images I saved and said the following. Apparently his company deals with a company that makes stuff like that. All he needs is either a schematic, or wire lengths, color codes, and connectors, and apparently these people can make something like that for me.

Now, if I where to send him info to get an exact copy of what is in these builds, what would he need sent over?

If we can get him to make one, and the prototype turns out good, maybe I can get him to do a small run if others need one and like the result.

#382 4 years ago
Quoted from Stretch7:

I'm not aware of any templates available....i think you will have to provide him with an original harness he can work with or if someone has the time to make a template/drawing of original harness and hand that over to him.

If someone wants to provide one, I will more than gladly send it over and pay for the cost of the prototype. as I said, if it turns out good, and the pro's here like it, I can do a run of, say 20 if the price is not too hi...

it would also need to have the precise gauge of wire/length, the precise end connectors mentioned on each end listed as well, of course in this design/build job

#386 4 years ago
Quoted from atrainn:

Yeah I find it extremely unlikely as well.

You could possibly template it yourself using the schematics and matrixes in the manual, though it would be incredibly time consuming without a reference game. I think the best route to go would be to provide them the wire gauge, length, and color list from a few pages back so you can potentially get all the correct wire to build the harness with.

Just done. I copied and pasted the list, and I sent over a photo of the wire harness..saying it was a few joined together to make one. I wanted him to forward the list and photo over to the company to see how gung ho they'd be about the project. hopefully it won't take too long to get a response back.

#389 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The wiring harness is the least of your concerns.
Its the hard assemblies and metal formed parts that have to be fabricated.

Yep, I know. but if I can get a replica done, it's another big hurdle out of the way.
and one less big part to worry about!

#391 4 years ago

Transformer just purchased from a pinside member.

last purchase till the cabinet gets here. time to save up a little again . hopefully all the super big items out of the way first.

#392 4 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

If anyone has a harness for taf, I could make copies. Nobody has spare harness' laying around tho

what we need to find is something like this
pinball graveyard
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcRl4qga139qfRzle0D_mrLjxG5JxaInPSm82uRiVE4d8KtuZGpX

#398 4 years ago

Well, at the very least, at least I should have all the wire I need, or a good amount to start with if he can at least come through on that end.
The Wire guy always comes on wensday, so we'll see what he has to say today.

brand new shiny transformer has arrived! heavier than I thought it'd be. the arcade one didn't weigh that much IIRC.

No more part buying until late Feb.

will be buying afew things then.I found a bottom part of the thing box thanks to a link sent. that's on the list too now.

#401 4 years ago

there's too many things to list at this point.

Right now there is a 'found' list a 'to buy list' and a 'still needed list'.

when the first two shrink down a little it'll be easier to sort out the last one . I have about 6 different pages saved with various parts still to buy

#403 4 years ago

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4406-01118-00
since they only have 6-32, ordering ten of these since they are cheap enough. and probably some of the posts.

beginning of march we'll decide what to get next.
can't decide if I want to get some more of the expensive pcb boards out of the way first...or some of the cheaper items.

#404 4 years ago

morgan freman meme ^ he ain't wrong!^

#405 4 years ago

last of the orders till march.

Bumper post 10-32 bottom stud 02-4036-2 3 $5.95 $17.85
Mini-post 8-32 thread 02-4003 10 $2.35 $23.50
Post - spring 02-3409 1 $0.95 $0.95
T-Nut 8-32 9/32 inch barrel -1/2 inch base 4408-01118-02 30 $0.35 $0.15 $4.50
T-Nut 8-32 1/4" barrel - 19/32" base 4408-01118-00 30 $0.29 $0.25 $7.50
T-Nut 6-32 thread 1/4 inch barrel 1/2 inch 3 prong 4406-01118-00 10 $0.29 $0.20 $2.00

wasn't sure which 8032 I needed so got both.

#406 4 years ago

trying to get back into the arcade construction spirit with a little modding. halfway done.

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#407 4 years ago

well, this doesn't exactly cause me to trust marco.

A day early, and clearly the wrong order. doesn't look like TNuts and Posts to me :/

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#414 4 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Call them. They will fix it, I’ve had them resend my whole order when they messed up mine. Resent whole thing and covered the new shipping charge and got to keep what they sent already.

will do. first thing in the morning.

oddest thing too. the invoice with the order was 100% spot on. you'd think someone would have noticed.

Also, one bit of good news today. my Virtua Pin is moved to 'in production' from the que. yay

#420 4 years ago

marco customer service is good at least . return shipping label sent and covering shipping charges for the right order

#423 4 years ago

their customer service has been top notch at least. my wrong order was placed in the mailbox yesterday off to it's rightful recipient. I was going to send it fed ex overnight, but they might get confused if it came in a envelope of a different company.

a bit of a vacation next week...we'll see what comes in when I get back. At least my Blitz Ecto 1 from sideshow will finally arrive after an 8 month production delay.

#424 4 years ago

no update on my replacement shipment order from marco yet. hopefully it comes soon as I try not to pester people about such things and be a patient customer. although I am chomping at the bit to see how my cabinet comes out and patiently awaiting shipping notification ;o).

Quick question. How do you properly install t nuts without damaging the board? the one video I did see hammered them in softly, and then realized he made a mistake as it popped some of the inserts out. so, I know not to do that, even carefully .

#429 4 years ago

thank you. will see how things go. apparently my package did arrive Tuesday o I guess I'll find out tomorrow

#432 4 years ago

step one, mark the territory and make sure it at least seems right before attempting to install one.

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#434 4 years ago
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:

Step one and a half: They don't go in the pop bumper ring holes.

like I said, seems right. this is why I really want to wait before even attempting to install parts. thank you for trying to bear with me..
I really am a total newcomer at all this...

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#435 4 years ago

Ok, I refound another post that I had bookmarked. it appears the smaller ones are for the flipper lane guides?

#437 4 years ago

OK, tommorow I will try and install my first 8-32 t-Nut. Pray for Mojo.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CF9EAzzUgAE43My.jpg

#438 4 years ago

how does that look for a first try before I do anymore?

of of about 30 to go

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#440 4 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

[quoted image]

Luckily we havn't been hit by porch pirates.. yet.

Back side all but done. minus the smaller ones. and a few of the bi gger ones have to be tightened down a little more.

Step 1 and I didn't wreck anything yet.

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#441 4 years ago

Took all day, but mostly done. Just a few 632's left to tighten and flat.

I did scuff the top of the playfield a little. Even using a wrench to tighten the nut, the damn screw broke in half. I had to use the drill to try and carefully get the screw out. thankfully it came out, but it scuffed up the top of the playfield a little. nothing a bit of black paint won't fix...but a minor annoyance...

#442 4 years ago

what do you think, sirs? and maddam...
please ignore the ugly desk. I'm still waiting in line for it to get re topped due to glue leakage from last project. ugh...

you can't see the scuff too well but it's there near poor cousin it.
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#444 4 years ago

so, now that the t-nuts are in, I guess I can install all the posts onceI get them all ordered..

#447 4 years ago

the cabinet and backbox does sem a little simpler by contrast.

but, I have the playfield here now...so if I can do somewhat more simple stuff first, I'll tackle that first.
From all the build pictures I've seen, it looks like people seem to like to do the posts second.

#449 4 years ago

hmm...and this thing could be sitting here for years without being ready. I can see where this idea is going .

So, considering it'll be weighted when done.. is it worth waiting till more parts are around to get started...or to slowly start getting things done as they arrive so it looks like I'm making progress?

I havn't heard back from the wire guy yet. i'm not sure if that's because he's less than thrilled with the order or what heh.

#452 4 years ago

I was thinking about the rotisserie. Some of the videos I've seen have the board standing on metal plate/rods. that are about 12 inches or so in length. there are at least four of them that I saw. I assumg this helps the board sit i nthe machine. that would be alot easier than havinga rotisserie around as a space saver.....would it work as well if I started the bottom first?

I could just flip it around and have it stand on it's own power.

#453 4 years ago

put in another order for most of the remaining metal and plastic posts and star posts..only missing a handful of 'em now.

In a week or two, I'll get the Color DMD, and I think one or two of the CPU boards out of the way.I'll buy a few more parts before I think of putting anything else on at the moment.

they didn't have purple opaque so got something close.

Bumper post 8-32 stud dual ring 02-4423 3 $3.95 $11.85
Post stud 8-32 x 2-1/16 inches 6-32 top 02-4424-1 10 $2.75 $27.50
Post stud 8-32 x 2-3/8 inches 5/16 drive 02-4425-1 1 $2.79 $2.79
Post spacer #8 x 1-3/16" 02-4435 2 $1.95 $3.90
Post spacer #8 x 1 inch 02-4434 2 $3.99 $7.98
Hex spacer 1/4 inch f-f 8-32 x 1-7/16 inch 02-4436-15 2 $1.95 $1.69 $3.38
Hex spacer 1/4" f-f 8-32 x 1-1/2" 02-4436-7 1 $2.90 $2.90
Post - star blue transparent 1-1/16 inch 03-8319-10 2 $0.79 $1.58
Post - star double clear 1-1/16 inch tall 03-8247-13 12 $0.80 $9.60

#462 4 years ago

I wish I had the skill to make stuff from scratch. The best I can do is recreate something in CGI.

Ordering a few more cheaper items. Just got a complete set of new targets. Addams Family / Addams Family Gold (Bally) Standup Target Switch Set (11pcs)
Item# TS1005 And Will probably get either 5 pop bumper bottoms....or the subway chute and thing lower box next.

At the end of march comes the DMD and boards..

#464 4 years ago

who says I plan to sell it? It's going to be kept until it falls apart...

#469 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

Youd save a lot of shipping Costs on all the available stuff if you just made a full list of parts, then wait until you have the cash for a full order from Marco, and then other companies (or whoever you want to start with) who have other parts Marco didn’t, etc. and while you save cash for that, be watching eBay, Pinside, cL, wherever for the rare / unobtainium stuff.

yeah, this is something I'm trying to keep in mind as well.

I will try and wait until funds are spareable to join as many orders as possible together. But, If I can order a few small parts here and there at one time....sometimes it's best to get them while they are still available.

#470 4 years ago

case in point, just got an email saying from the place I ordered the targets from...the websites stock was off any my target order is delayed a week due to one target being out of stock for a few days. go fig .

sometimes it's always best to get things when they are available as you never know when they are going to be available again .

#472 4 years ago

I think the simpsons predicted this in 2005 ;o)

So, I'm watching this video to try and get an idea on where all my posts properly go since I don't have a machine in front of me and I can't find a decent image showcasing all of them... I really hope I don't have to do that much extra drilling on this sucker .

#476 4 years ago

case in point, from the images and video I saw, this goes here. but doesn't fit all the way. i'm assuming i might have to drill some of them a little to fit properly.

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#479 4 years ago

that was my first thought as to what the problem was. ugh. going to have to be very very careful.

#480 4 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

Be sure to use a new and verry sharp drill

I just ordered brand new dewalt drill set. all set to go on that front. including my first whole saw set (doubt I'll need it, but I like to be prepared )

#483 4 years ago

the dremel I already have..one with varying speeds....what type of bit would work?

#490 4 years ago

So, I found an old thread on the marco rotisserie.

The jury seemed out on the time. has time been any kinder to buying it?

So, just for ha ha's, I tried just ONE piece. What I did was took a tap set drill bit and VERY carefully twisted until the hole was big enough and it fit right in perfectly.

I don't know if I'd do this for all of them, but for ONE it worked just fine.

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#492 4 years ago

i think i was already when i sprung $1500 up front for the cabinet! oh well.. might as order the marco rotisserie thursday too while i'm at it.
the opinions on it seemed 60/50 in that old thread.

#494 4 years ago

has anyone tried to build this one?

For under $100, and getting all the parts neeed at home depot tommorow..yeah. that's hopefully easier

#495 4 years ago

there is also this option I can try.....stuff to give a shot on Friday or Thursday if anyone can recomend one or the other

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/just-in-case-you-havent-built-a-rotisserie-yet

#500 4 years ago

yeah, i do like the one in the video a little better due to size....

but apparently we have all the pipe we need in the warehouse already..so it looks like it may be the other one. one of the benefits of working in an electrical contract company.

Added over 4 years ago:

bought five pop bumper assemblies...

#502 4 years ago

more goodies! right order too!

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#503 4 years ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

You can still have mine if you feel like a trip to w.p.

I think in this case its easier to build my own since we already have all the parts, but thanks

#505 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Your building a pinball machine from scratch! Building the rotisserie is a walk in the park

I think you're right

I hear noises in the wearhouse, and one of our design/build guys got the building bug and started working on the thing without me. he's using the plans in the thread I printed out and it's already 65% done. I'll have one by the end of the day, heh.
We already had all but two or three of the needed parts in the warehouse already just sitting around un used heh.

Maybe I can get some more of the posts properly done tomorrow to test it out.

#506 4 years ago

missing the faucet twisters.. that i'm almost sure we have somewhere... will have to go digging...

but, DONE! Just have to rub it down a bit from all the grease and maybe paint. but ready to use

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#507 4 years ago

i'm thinking of leaving it up all night just to see how stable i t is...

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#510 4 years ago

a little testing for today...Going VERY slow to make sure I have the proper placement for each post. these are the easiest to make sure you have right off the bat.

3 parts secured...500 to go

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#512 4 years ago
Quoted from Juicerc51:

Shredder, youre probably gonna want to get the side rails on soon so the playfield doesn't warp or bend. Are you going with reese rails?

would these work?

I can put 'em in the next order with the remaining posts.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-12359-3

#514 4 years ago

PM to reese rails sent. do these g o on the bottom of the playfield?

#517 4 years ago
Quoted from luch:

on the top

like I said, still a complete newcomer..so please bear with me as I figure all this out.
Luckily I tend to be a fast on the fly learner.

if this thing ever gets done, and not only that, works, I should throw a party .

#519 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

I think most old timers here will be dead by then LOL but i hope to be around to see the finished machine!
Oh and don't forget the pop bumper screws that need hammering in (make sure the top has the holes slightly counter sunk as well)

I've been trying to look up info on how to install the pop bumper tops, but my google search skills suck. I'm only installing stuff that I know 100% for sure how to figure out. like the posts. I can only install the ones like these that I have clear images from other builds for. I'm trying to find good shots of the rest.

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#521 4 years ago

I read that elsewhere, that is one reason why I ordered the pop bumper bottoms sooner. maybe I can get to those first.
So, I spent the last 30 minutes trying to find a proper build video, some arn't even in english!

just trying a test fit to see if it looks right first... not drilling or screwing in anything yet.

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#523 4 years ago

well, I wasn't going too, but after seeing a few videos and reading the page.. these suckers seem to be in

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#525 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

What about pop bumper screws?

the one thing that didn't seem to get mentioned was what type of screws are used to hold everything in. I went with the smallest sized screw I had just in case it was wrong and luckily that seemed to work. the tops are on now too.

#527 4 years ago
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:

I think Davi is referring to the flat-topped nail/screws, which need to be put through the three holes under the bumper skirt. They sit flush with the playfield and stick out through the bottom as a point to which you would mount the bumper coil mechanism.

ahh, gotcha. That part I didn't get too yet. I will take everything off later if the assembly requires it too.. but I just wanted to test fit 'em on first.
I was a little confused as I didn't see any hammering going on in the install videos I watched . I just did the top part as the bottom parts havn't arrived yet
....

I think this is all I can do today. I THINK that is where the two 10-32 post bumpers go near the chair, but not sure yet so I will leave those off...I still have to find out where 4 of the others go...

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#531 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

These: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5957-00
There are 3 per pop ... they hold the coil bracket in place under the playfield.

OK, When I saw them mentioned again, I did a search just to make sure I knew what part they where...and that was the one that came up.

OK. I'll make sure to add those to the list before the pop bumper bottoms arrive.

-2
#532 4 years ago
Quoted from Passave:

Your going to need to learn some patience Shredd...Again, there is a linear process in which that machine was built, And the top of the playfield is not where it starts.

Understood.
Patience is not a strong point in someone who has OCD AND Anxiety mixed in . Although I DO try my best to keep it in check.
Right now I'm just trying to do simple stuff. the Posts and the T-Nuts seemed like a good place to start. one has to dive in somewhere...

#534 4 years ago

The wood ones have a PM Sent, so that's in process . and those nice pictures above show where they all go .

#537 4 years ago

like I Said before, I am 100% new to this world..so this will obviously not be a HEP style project where everything is done 100%.

Mistakes will be made, but hopefully not many .

#542 4 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

These might help.

some of them do

But the problem with images like those is that the accoutrements are already on the posts...which makes it tougher to tell what is what f or a newbie.

I would really like a shot more like this, only more in focus so I can actually make out the detail . some parts are rather close looking and can be mixed up IIRC.
playfield5 (resized).jpgplayfield5 (resized).jpg

#543 4 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I gotta say, I’m super impressed with you guys; rallying around shredder565 as a newbie with a crazy passion project and introduction to pinball, No one here has criticized, (even though rightly so we have tried to push him to purchase a doner game or playfield). It makes me proud to be a part of this community.

I will say this, it's nice to finally find a forum without any drama (so far ) .

Most sites with well established communities expect new comers to know everything instantly and will trash you if you don't. looking at you proton pack building sites ;o) ... nice not to see that for a change

#547 4 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

If you keep using big words, I'm not helping anymore.

would it help if I had to look up the proper spelling before I used it?

#551 4 years ago
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

Great thread, one of my favorites right now
I have a bunch of NOS Addams parts that I should dig out when you are ready
cheers, Steve

agreed .

One part I'm looking for - the metal ramp that is a part of 'thing flips' and bear kick. and the ball guides on the lower left and right. I found one elsewhere, but might as well get a complete set . good start at least!

#553 4 years ago

removed the bumpers today. those'll stay off untill I have the complete set of parts. Don't think I can really attach anything else other than the rest of the posts...once I'm sure where they all go.

#554 4 years ago

My pop bumber bottoms shipped

#555 4 years ago

Pop Bumper bottoms arrive Thursday. putting in an order for the last of the posts as well as the pop bumper screws.
Also look what else arrived this month .

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#557 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

I don’t think that’s the right topper for TAF...

It's about the same size though ;o)

Is this generally how you install the pop bumper screws? My pop bumper bottoms come today.
Once I get the screws, can I install all of it at once? I know there is a switch that activates them in the middle. Not sure if I can slide that in once it's all on, or just wait till I get the switch.

#559 4 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I would also check the top side countersink area to make sure that it is slightly larger than the stud being installed. You want it to be flush or just below. If it’s smaller, you may also crack the clear coat by just smacking it in.

it's def going to be smaller. I'm going to have to use my counter sink hole tool to try and get one right and hope I can do it the same way for all 15. oy.

#562 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

You can add the switches in later as they will be part of your switch loom.

perfect. just what I was hoping for...

Pop Bumper Bottoms are smaller than I thought they'd be.
But, got a two-fer today.
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Also, what size screws are used for the target installs? maybe I can get the blue ones(g/R) in tomorrow just to see how that goes with one set.

#564 4 years ago
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:

#6 x 1/2" hex head. Typically considered sheet metal screws, but from my experience, they match what is typically used for playfield mounting.
You will also want to acquire 3/8" of the same type, for mounting thinner items such as wire attachment tabs. This prevents the screw tip from breaking out into the visible play area when the screw is run in that much closer to the wood.

going to mcmaster carr right now.

I did my first test install of the two targets just to see how they go in. and I didn't break through the top of the wood thanks to a little drilling trick I saw online with masking tape being used to show how far left you have to go to reach the end.

the one on the left isn't tightened yet as my hand started to get a bit tired manually doing it heh.
It's starting to look a little like a pinball machine at least now
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#565 4 years ago

the other question, what type of nut is usually used to lock the posts into place?

The ones I have are clearly not proper, as they will come loose over time with serious play and not the same ones posted in the video above. I want to order a bunch of those too.

#567 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

KEP nuts... they have a nylon insert in them to keep them locked.

https://www.mcmaster.com/k-lock-hex-nuts

Am I in the right place?

#569 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Not KEP that was my error, not sure why I typed that. You need nylon insert lock nuts

Cool

That does look a little more right.
https://www.mcmaster.com/nylon-insert-locknuts

#571 4 years ago

ok, ordered the two screws, and some 8-32/6-32/10-32 nuts just to cover all the bases..

be here tomorrow

#572 4 years ago

So, I've been scrounging pictures to figure out where my remaining 02-4003 bumpers go... and I think they go on the bookcase. I kept on feeling like I was missing sections of image on where they went.

I feel a little better now knowing I don't have extras.

#574 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

I’d recommend getting the “big bag of everything “ in your next Pinball Life order. This bag of miscellaneous hardware has saved me numerous trips to the hardware store.
https://www.pinballlife.com/big-bag-of-everything.html

added onto the list.

My Pop Bumper screws come tommorow. I could give one of those suckers a try tomorrow as I secure all my targets into place.

#575 4 years ago

nothing is secured yet. I will replace them with the proper screws tomorrow.

But, it's all in it's proper place. And I will probably place the chair scoop on too.

It's starting to look like something!

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#577 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Use better clamps on your rotisserie.
As the playfield gets heavier you want either c-clamps or ratchet clamps.
C-clamps offer the best security, just use a small piece of stirring stick to protect the surface.

I saw the clamps had to have some kind of rubber on them to protect the play field, because stuff sinks in. as mentioned above. That's why I used those suckers for now. But, I'll add that to the list of things to get.

#578 4 years ago

KITT will never look pro..but at least he'll look a little better. yesterday took out all the screws.. temporarily glued in the pieces. Will figure out a better way to secure them later. but for now, at least screws arn't sticking out the bottom of the dash. compared to trying to figure this out, the pinball has been easier so far ;o)

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#579 4 years ago

Pop Bumper screws arrive today. Screws and lock nuts arrive today.

First order of business is to get the targets with the proper screws in.
Second order is to replace all the regular nuts on the posts with the new nuts.

Third order of business is to try my first pop bumper screw, to see how hard that will be done. maybe I can get at least one pop bumper assembled properly today.

I think I am going to hold off buying for a while. trying for a three week break. If I get anything, it will be one item at a time and under $100's. like a ramp.

#580 4 years ago

step 1 done, step 2 in progress.

Proper screws in targets. all nice and stable. proper nuts going on. chair scoop installed.

awaiting pop bumper screw arrival. how's it look?

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#582 4 years ago
Quoted from loneacer:

Might be uncomfortable soldering those targets already installed. Or it might be good that you don't need a third hand to hold them while soldering....

I'm hoping for the latter.

One of the swamp targets is a little crooked...but shouldn't be too hard to straighten out.
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#584 4 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

The screws are actually incorrect. They should be hex headed.

crap. right size/length wrong head.

would those still be ok though? they are perfectly tight and secure.

#589 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Can't you join for a local pinhead's pinball teardown party?
You can learn a lot about sequences, screws, posts, and all the methods used in WPC games. This helps a lot for your own build.

It would help, but travel is tough. unless it's really easy to get too, chances are my OCD wouldn't like it. I tend to get super nervous going new places even with GPS.

We used to have a few addams at local arcades down here, but the few left sandy wiped out. at least the ones I knew of. Barnacle Bills in Ortley had one for years until they finally got rid of it.. and flash backs in seaside got destroyed by storm them fire.

#592 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Like others have said gotta be the hex screws and a really good hex driver, once all the hardware is in and you gotta swap something you will be glad you used the hex screws and not Phillips

I'll get some hex screws before I close up ordering shop today .

one nice thing about mcmaster is they are local so next day shipping

#594 4 years ago

yep .
sadly I can't afford to swing the circuit boards now . otherwise it'd be a no brainer..

#595 4 years ago

Alright.

Step 2 done. All Posts attached currently are secured. they ain't going nowhere.

First Pop Bumper Bolt done.

It doesn't look too flush yet, but not sure if I should try to twist it in any further.. I want to see h ow this one looks before any modifications are made.
I tried the hammering, but I didn't trust myself not to bust anything. so, what I did was tap the hole just a little close to the size of the bolt...and then hammer it in so it went in a tad softer. I know that's NOT how you are supposed to do things...but I wonder what you thought of the idea. the bolt is secure enough in there.. it's just not entirely flush.
I also didn't have a washer for the first test one. But can add it later... and def for the others.

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#597 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Might need to counter sink the hole slightly?
Also on the under side you will put the mech on first then the nuts

counter sinking was the first thing I did. I did it as far as I could judge it by eye, and lined the top of the bolt up with the hole to see how close I got. guess it wasn't as close as it seemed.

I can try and take it out again on monday and see if counter sinking it a little more can help.

#598 4 years ago
Quoted from luch:

any of this stuff help you ?

I don't mind ordering new from mcmaster. i use bolts and nuts so much for prop projects, a bag of a hundred tends to go by rather quick.

.

#600 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Might need to counter sink the hole slightly?
Also on the under side you will put the mech on first then the nuts

just a add on so no one think I missed this part .
and yeah. this was just test sink to see how close I got to the surface with the countersink drill. I've never done one of these bolts before, so I didn't want to even risk attaching half a thing on it if it was going to come off anyway .

#602 4 years ago

So, if I where to get some this week, what kind should I get?

https://www.lowes.com/pl/C-clamp--Clamps-Clamps-vises-Hand-tools-Tools/4294857577?refinement=608460100

Ordered a 208 piece drill bit set so I'll never be without the right tip for the screw driver again. that gets here monday. As well as the proper driver to tighten those nuts down. My Toolbox just keeps on getting bigger with all these prop projects.

#604 4 years ago

I wish I could afford some of these more expensive items.. but trying to keep costs down i nthe next few weeks in case the tax man comes a calling with a big bill. sometimes I get a refund, sometimes I don't :/....best to be prepared.

My first Pop Bumper bottom is done. How does this look? I tried to get them as flush as possible..but don't know if they need to get even closer than that before I try the others.

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#607 4 years ago
Quoted from ryanbrooks:

Now would be a really good time to start building a wire harness...relatively inexpensive and very time consuming. Just what the doctor ordered while the world is shutdown for the next 1-3 months.

I'm still waiting on my wire guys.

One of them wants me to use just one color wire, and label it. yes, it'd be cheaper that way...but I'd think it'd be ten times harder to trouble shoot without the correct color coding.

Also, is the wire in the wire harness stranded or solid? my guess was solid.

#611 4 years ago

The first pop bumper is on.

Assuming that looks right, problem one is instantly noticeable. the wires for the lamp are too long. can I trim them? I assume I shouldn't bend them to fit outward...

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#616 4 years ago

gotcha. I'll leave that for later... as it looks ok enough to do....but at least the first one is on properly now.

#617 4 years ago

So, eventually, it should look something like this, only making sure it only touches wood..

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#621 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

This is highlighting why you should be a bit more patient and hold off buying random parts that are generally always available in order to save up $500-800 bucks and keep it handy for jumping on the unobtainable stuff when it Happens to appear on eBay, Pinside, or possibly as NOS on a pin parts website like planatary or pinball resource.

Understood.

I made a significant denting start in parts in the beginning......and the machine is starting to look like something now. So I think I will hold off buying for a few weeks. at least until mid april. By then if they are still available, I should be able to get those boards no problem.

#622 4 years ago

I think that is a good enough place to stop for a few week break.

The Pop bumpers are all in, top and bottom. the targets are all secured. the posts that I can identify are locked in tight with the nylon nuts. it's starting to look like a machine.

Still waiting on reese rails. Hoping my cabinet ships in the next month....

about the only inspirational thing about this build? If I can do it and get this far without screwing up, literally ANYONE can. with lots of help

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#625 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Yeah but they will go in certain locations as if you look at the above photo 3 lamps share the same common and another 2 share as well so those legs need to be bent in a direction they can all meet and be connected the other legs just bent some where else avoiding any mechs and usually terminate with a diode onto the loom.

yeah, it did look like some of them where touching. i'm assuming this is to cut down on wires used?

Quoted from Passave:

All one color wire is a bad idea, Those labels may dry up someday and fall off...Primarily that was 22ga, (little difficult to find) and 18Ga, however Bay area does sell 22ga and is a good quality wire for around 2 bucks or so for 10ft,(most colors, but still spendy in quanity) it is not the 24ga, but a suitable replacement (little bigger) but still works well with the IDC"s.

Didn't think about the labels drying up and falling off, even if using sturdy h eavy duty plastic things. But yeah, that is another concern of one color wire. that, and what if one of the labels somehow gets ripped off? No, I think one color wire is def out of the equation.

I still have about 20 or so posts to figure out the locations of. I think the remaining ones mostly go in the T-Nuts I installed. just not sure yet what goes where. will have to look at the photos to see if I can tell better.

#627 4 years ago

hmm, maybe I should make the ramp the first part bought on the road back in april. just to see if that is going to be the case.
The last part done for the break....got the proper hex head screws. all target screws changed out.

Also, like Doc brown, now prepared for any eventuality in the future emergency department.

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#628 4 years ago

Also, swamp kickout install
I can see what you mean by order of install parts .

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#629 4 years ago

And lastly..the Thing part is now installed.

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#630 4 years ago

So, over the next few weeks, I can figure out exactly where these parts go to busy me as the bank account recovers a little
All the other posts are proper. and the lower three in the lower right go on the bookcase mount..

Even my dentist closed down for a few weeks heh. crazy world..
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#632 4 years ago

I posted a lowes link earlier wondering what would be the best kind of c clamp to get...

#635 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Get a couple 3" regular c clamps
And maybe a set if the irwin hand/quick release ratchett clamps. The set comes with 6 assorted sizes. The tiny ones are not usable.
I have 2 of the 3" clamps as security.
I have had the quick clamps slip off a couple times.
Get a few of the samples for maple hardwood floors.
They are very handy to use under the c clamps. And they are free.
I use those hardwood squares for tons of things

So something like this?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-3-in-C-Clamp/1000235617?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-lia-_--_-clampsandvises-_-1000235617-_-0&store_code=1921&placeholder=null&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6sHzBRCbARIsAF8FMpUU5I8mmrLTK_7xsG9vVsd3ifAehk9G1Mv6gh2njtqk5IVPeL0NowAaAiMuEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

#636 4 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Hey noticed a little part you will be using I have noticed in other pictures. Spacer spool and how they are used. Disregard the sizes and numbers. Didn’t see them in your parts.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

THAT's more what I'm looking for on the info front.

Now that I know what cover goes over that part, I can more easily identify the part in other photos.

I noticed that I could use this trend with another part earlier and found the three remaining places for the two pieces that sit next to the electric chair .

thanks

#638 4 years ago

that was one of the first ones I found actually searching around .

it did help too .

#639 4 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Hey noticed a little part you will be using I have noticed in other pictures. Spacer spool and how they are used. Disregard the sizes and numbers. Didn’t see them in your parts.[quoted image]

there are a few more spotted here. see, when they have the coverings on, they get confusing to a newcomer. cause it looks like there is a nut attached to the top of the plastic part. and when you see it that way, it doesn't look like the same part. but, now that I know that it is, I can more easily identify it in other photos

maybe I can get most of my other remaining parts attached tomorrow while I go shopping for c clamps.

IMG_8597 (resized).JPGIMG_8597 (resized).JPG
#640 4 years ago

New day, stupid question.

I assumed the spacer spool posts went on the board with the nut facing down toward the board. is it really the other way around?

#642 4 years ago

well, the photo you provided, the first two definitely just sunk into the playfield. no t-nut and no nylon nut support on the bottom.

thankfully with the 8-32 tap, I was simply just able to screw them in and they can stay there until I get the cover for it.

So, with most of those identified, that just leaves the 02-4426-2 posts to find.

I also see where all the 'stars' plastic go..under the bottom bumpers for the most part. just not sure how those are installed.

#644 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

my earthshaker restore had a mixture of those posts with a thread on the bottom and a self tapping screw on the bottom, most actually just screwed into the pf directly (nut at the top) and the others screwed into a t-nut underneath. The plastics then usually sit directly on top.

That was my next question looking at more photos...If the star plastics DO get installed this way, then I mixed up some of the other posts below, as those are all the twisty type posted in the image above. not the self tapping type.

Also, I am pretty sure that post in the t nut on the top of the playfield is supposed to go in the bigger hole too it's right, but i'm not sure how it's supposed to attach as there is no t nut on the bottom.
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#645 4 years ago

that would mean that some of those guys would have to get switched out to sit on these guys...
and the self tapping in the others...

90315215_10157785288740211_7492988919420551168_n (resized).jpg90315215_10157785288740211_7492988919420551168_n (resized).jpg
#647 4 years ago
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:

In your second to last photo, those tee nuts are not for topside components. The two pairs of top-facing tee nuts on each side of the playfield are for the hinge brackets, which are mounted to the bottom.

Ok, that is what I thought. so that post DOES go into the hole next to it on the right.

just got to find out what it attaches too..assuming I was looking at the photo right.

#649 4 years ago

would that be the one in this photo?

IMG_8606 (resized).JPGIMG_8606 (resized).JPG
#651 4 years ago

OK, both of those where both T-Nuts. the one that appears to tbe the self tap is this one next to the bumper.

and one next to the Special light? Not so sure on the placement of that one, but it's in a photo I have. I can also see why you guys say not to go by the instruction manuals. I'm short at least two posts. But, this is the current state of the board, with pretty much everything I bought properly secured and in place . It's starting to look a little less impossible now. hopefully these photo's help out other beginners too..

90306220_10157785438855211_4344248017042276352_n (resized).jpg90306220_10157785438855211_4344248017042276352_n (resized).jpg90705605_10157785438835211_2014832165723832320_n (resized).jpg90705605_10157785438835211_2014832165723832320_n (resized).jpg
#656 4 years ago

OK, so I will leave that one off for now...no problem.

#657 4 years ago

ahh, I see the plate instantly. OK. that is a self screw not a tapper. Will def leave that off for now.

#660 4 years ago

alright... that is pretty much all I can do for now. pretty much every part I have is attached, minus the swamp ramp that I just s aw photos of how it's properly attached just now. I can do that anytime.

So, it'll be alot of down time until april and the bank account recovers a little . Hopefully by then those boards are still around for $700. if not, more waiting .

Pretty much all my posts are on. My Ramps are on. my under playfield items are on. My bumpers and bump posts are on. Rotisserie is built and ready.
Making some very decent progress.

And this is one reason why I like to do stuff when I have it. When you do things right, and you do it at a decent pace, and it comes out nicely....it jazzes you up to keep doing more. If you keep on piling and piling up parts and nothing gets done and you fret about it endlessly....it's less fun that way .

#662 4 years ago

So, would that wire be good for a harness?

#664 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I wouldn’t use it... doesn’t mean it won’t work.

So, if t he wire guys don't come through for me, it's an option at least..but not a desireable one...hmm.. always a catch 22..

So, does that look OK for the swamp parts?
Last main piece I have to attach. Not sure if it should be covering the rail hole or not...but according to the picture, that seems mostly right.

89941650_10157785794210211_4275734574182432768_n (resized).jpg89941650_10157785794210211_4275734574182432768_n (resized).jpg
#666 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Welp this is one of those order is important things (no pun intended with “thing”). You’re going to have to remove that part to install the rail.

That's OK. No problem there. just so long as it's in the OK General location .

At least by the time I'm done (If I ever get done) building this thing, I'll have a better understanding of how it all goes together .

#669 4 years ago

request was put in a week ago, and he's apparently busy at the moment..so we'll see.

but if I where to make my own, what's the length/type of wood needed? I 've got my sawsall ready to go.

#671 4 years ago

well, guess I'm staying home for at least a week.

Sister had lunch with someone a week ago who had a confirmed case of the virus. So far, she's not showing any signs..so I guess if in another week she's still fine, that means we're most likely fine too. I hardly ever get sick so not too worried. but at least the bank account will get filled up quicker with an advance in sick pay.

Still gonna save up till April though.

So, here is a question.

At this point, other than the un obtanium items, what would you be installing on next?

I know most people like to work the bottom first. I think I might get a top ramp though to see if it hits my bumpers or not.

#678 4 years ago

So, assuming this list is complete posted back on page 4, I could start building my wire harness from that site?

593 HW-30018-0 wire 18awg black TAF
421 HW-30018-04 wire 18awg blk/yel TAF
252 HW-30018-06 wire 18awg blk/blu TAF
214 HW-30018-1 wire 18awg brown TAF
373 HW-30018-2 wire 18awg red TAF
92 HW-30018-29 wire 18awg red/wht TAF
44 HW-30018-3 wire 18awg orange TAF
145 HW-30018-35 wire 18awg org/grn TAF
145 HW-30018-36 wire 18awg org/blu TAF
237 HW-30018-37 wire 18awg org/vio TAF
252 HW-30018-38 wire 18awg org/gry TAF
237 HW-30018-4 wire 18awg yellow TAF
316 HW-30018-49 wire 18awg yel/wht TAF
27 HW-30018-54 wire 18awg grn/yel TAF
44 HW-30018-6 wire 18awg blue TAF
276 HW-30018-64 wire 18awg blu/yel TAF
265 HW-30018-67 wire 18awg blu/vio TAF
266 HW-30018-68 wire 18awg blu/gry TAF
184 HW-30018-69 wire 18awg blu/wht TAF
365 HW-30018-7 wire 18awg violet TAF
230 HW-30018-73 wire 18awg vio/org TAF
459 HW-30018-74 wire 18awg vio/yel TAF
146 HW-30018-75 wire 18awg vio/grn TAF
274 HW-30018-8 wire 18awg gray TAF
348 HW-30018-84 wire 18awg gry/yel TAF
140 HW-30018-85 wire 18awg gry/grn TAF
92 HW-30018-89 wire 18awg gry/wht TAF
196 HW-30018-9 wire 18awg white TAF
170 HW-30018-91 wire 18awg wht/brn TAF
184 HW-30018-92 wire 18awg wht/red TAF
184 HW-30018-95 wire 18awg wht/grn TAF
20 HW-30018-96 wire 18awg wht/blu TAF
154 HW-30018-97 wire 18awg wht/vio TAF
33 HW-60018-0 wire 18awg black TAF
25 HW-60018-9 wire 18awg white TAF

#used part number part name used on games
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
639 CW-30022-0 wire 22awg black TAF
123 CW-30022-01 wire 22awg blk/brn TAF
114 CW-30022-02 wire 22awg blk/red TAF
151 CW-30022-03 wire 22awg blk/org TAF
408 CW-30022-04 wire 22awg blk/yel TAF
137 CW-30022-05 wire 22awg blk/grn TAF
245 CW-30022-06 wire 22awg blk/blu TAF
115 CW-30022-07 wire 22awg blk/vio TAF
114 CW-30022-08 wire 22awg blk/gry TAF
102 CW-30022-10 wire 22awg brn/blk TAF
99 CW-30022-12 wire 22awg brn/red TAF
123 CW-30022-13 wire 22awg brn/org TAF
105 CW-30022-14 wire 22awg brn/yel TAF
123 CW-30022-15 wire 22awg brn/grn TAF
121 CW-30022-16 wire 22awg brn/blu TAF
122 CW-30022-17 wire 22awg brn/vio TAF
150 CW-30022-18 wire 22awg brn/gry TAF
49 CW-30022-2 wire 22awg red TAF
255 CW-30022-20 wire 22awg red/blk TAF
257 CW-30022-21 wire 22awg red/brn TAF
261 CW-30022-23 wire 22awg red/org TAF
279 CW-30022-24 wire 22awg red/yel TAF
316 CW-30022-25 wire 22awg red/grn TAF
229 CW-30022-26 wire 22awg red/blu TAF
233 CW-30022-27 wire 22awg red/vio TAF
350 CW-30022-28 wire 22awg red/gry TAF
255 CW-30022-29 wire 22awg red/wht TAF
486 CW-30022-3 wire 22awg orange TAF
150 CW-30022-30 wire 22awg org/blk TAF
150 CW-30022-31 wire 22awg org/brn TAF
150 CW-30022-32 wire 22awg org/red TAF
150 CW-30022-34 wire 22awg org/yel TAF
153 CW-30022-35 wire 22awg org/grn TAF
112 CW-30022-36 wire 22awg org/blu TAF
112 CW-30022-37 wire 22awg org/vio TAF
112 CW-30022-38 wire 22awg org/gry TAF
112 CW-30022-39 wire 22awg org/wht TAF
160 CW-30022-4 wire 22awg yellow TAF
184 CW-30022-40 wire 22awg yel/blk TAF
169 CW-30022-41 wire 22awg yel/brn TAF
157 CW-30022-42 wire 22awg yel/red TAF
124 CW-30022-43 wire 22awg yel/org TAF
130 CW-30022-45 wire 22awg yel/grn TAF
161 CW-30022-46 wire 22awg yel/blu TAF
246 CW-30022-47 wire 22awg yel/vio TAF
145 CW-30022-48 wire 22awg yel/gry TAF
22 CW-30022-5 wire 22awg green TAF
157 CW-30022-50 wire 22awg grn/blk TAF
320 CW-30022-51 wire 22awg grn/brn TAF
295 CW-30022-52 wire 22awg grn/red TAF
241 CW-30022-53 wire 22awg grn/org TAF
148 CW-30022-54 wire 22awg grn/yel TAF
245 CW-30022-56 wire 22awg grn/blu TAF
234 CW-30022-57 wire 22awg grn/vio TAF
138 CW-30022-58 wire 22awg grn/gry TAF
8 CW-30022-6 wire 22awg blue TAF
173 CW-30022-60 wire 22awg blu/blk TAF
87 CW-30022-61 wire 22awg blu/brn TAF
85 CW-30022-62 wire 22awg blu/red TAF
101 CW-30022-63 wire 22awg blu/org TAF
121 CW-30022-64 wire 22awg blu/yel TAF
138 CW-30022-65 wire 22awg blu/grn TAF
283 CW-30022-67 wire 22awg blu/vio TAF
267 CW-30022-68 wire 22awg blu/gry TAF
180 CW-30022-7 wire 22awg violet TAF
106 CW-30022-70 wire 22awg vio/blk TAF
113 CW-30022-71 wire 22awg vio/brn TAF
130 CW-30022-72 wire 22awg vio/red TAF
104 CW-30022-73 wire 22awg vio/org TAF
138 CW-30022-74 wire 22awg vio/yel TAF
284 CW-30022-75 wire 22awg vio/grn TAF
100 CW-30022-76 wire 22awg vio/blu TAF
123 CW-30022-78 wire 22awg vio/gry TAF
40 CW-30022-81 wire 22awg gry/brn TAF
40 CW-30022-82 wire 22awg gry/red TAF
40 CW-30022-83 wire 22awg gry/org TAF
494 CW-30022-84 wire 22awg gry/yel TAF
40 CW-30022-85 wire 22awg gry/grn TAF
41 CW-30022-86 wire 22awg gry/blu TAF
22 CW-30022-9 wire 22awg white TAF
373 CW-30022-91 wire 22awg wht/brn TAF
333 CW-30022-92 wire 22awg wht/red TAF
427 CW-30022-93 wire 22awg wht/org TAF
453 CW-30022-94 wire 22awg wht/yel TAF
311 CW-30022-95 wire 22awg wht/grn TAF
250 CW-30022-96 wire 22awg wht/blu TAF
427 CW-30022-97 wire 22awg wht/vio TAF
246 CW-30022-98 wire 22awg wht/gry TAF

#682 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

You have all the exact lengths needed for each wire or just all the types?

the number on the far left is the length of each wire, in inches IIRC.

I'm hoping that is all the wires needed in the set listed. All I have to do to start is collect the right color wire and snip it to the proper length.

#687 4 years ago

well, I would like to save the wire harness for last. but at least if I can start hoarding wire, I can s tart to put a dent into it .

#688 4 years ago

messing around with a little classic recreation in 3D. trying to get as accurate as possible

scene (resized).jpgscene (resized).jpg
#689 4 years ago

office closed till Thursday to test 'remote working' procedures. So, can't work on anything anyway for the next few days.

my remaining posts and star arrived Friday before the world shut down, so at least that section of the build is mostly done.

Ye old bank account will be mostly recovered by next week or the week after, but will still keep on saving till at least the first week in april. in the mean time, I can start hoarding small amounts of wire and slowly cross those off the check list halfway in april.

#693 4 years ago
Quoted from wallybgood:

The number in the Parts List (BOM) is the TOTAL inches required. It could be made up from many wires of different lengths.
Yep, all light sockets, lampboards, pcbs, switches should be installed first.
Wally

that does make it trickier to start with without everything attached! But at least the wire can start to be dented with in hoarding.

#695 4 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Did you find all your metal playfield posts? I've got all kind of them, if you need something.

The only thing I could use right now are the ball guides. the two next to the special light that I have to drill holes for. everything else I did manage to find on marco minus two they had out of stock but expect to restock .

My Reese rails are ready to ship! yay!

Hopefully I can get back in next week and put those suckers on.

I am kind of wondering how all this virus stuff is going to effect my cabinet construction though. haven't had an update on that in a month or so.
no rush, just curious on progress . especially with business taking a few weeks off.

-1
#696 4 years ago

In the meantime, Isolation Projects.

taking apart my Coleco Kickstarter robotech to see what's in it, and to see how I can modify it to play the original Coleco Pac-Man

90916337_10157798242635211_367686274695299072_n (resized).jpg90916337_10157798242635211_367686274695299072_n (resized).jpg
#698 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Stick a raspberry pi zero in there running retroPi

there was a $35 touch screen 5 inch monitor I saw that would fit it as well.

but, the question is, can I connect it's current control panel board to the pi zero, or would I have to replace that too..

#700 4 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

ambitious project but hats off to you, but please get some rubber pads and better clamps - would hate to hear that you have a playfield fall and damage
also just in case if you haven't been here download the parts list from
https://www.ipdb.org/files/20/Bally_1992_The_Addams_Family_Parts_List.txt
and start ticking the parts off and start a spreadsheet of what you have and then use
https://www.pinballsearch.com/#gsc.tab=0
to locate the pieces and places to get them to save you on some freight
enjoy

clamps will be bought this week. as they are cheap enough.

I've already been doing the check list, but with the manual instead. a Bigger printed one might not be a bad idea though.

#702 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Look to be a basic switch matrix onto a flat flex cable, prob easier to use some cheap usb button pcb and rewire the buttons.

Not sure how well that would work with the on/off switch though :/. that might be connected to the controller board. I'll have to take a look.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000537153907.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&albcp=1582410664&albag=59754279756&trgt=743612850714&crea=en4000537153907&netw=u&device=c&albpg=743612850714&albpd=en4000537153907&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmdzzBRC7ARIsANdqRRmObsEKlqbj_QIcPmy8idKkZXoIs_DRIDva-Vh2YVh4aOD3DKNOtRQaAnefEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

they do make converters though....so I could plug it in to usb.

#703 4 years ago

well, it's attached to the board. I wonder if I can de solder and re purpose anything or just throw it out..

90143044_10157802967555211_5813884739383197696_n (resized).jpg90143044_10157802967555211_5813884739383197696_n (resized).jpg
#705 4 years ago

when you can't work on one project (won't be able to finish the posts or install my reese rails yet)
...dive into others! that's my version of miller time!

#707 4 years ago

it was a fun enough project. a bit more time consuming than I thought it would be though. perfect to pass the time if one gets bored!

#708 4 years ago

well, I guess it was bound to happen sooner or later :/.

VirtuaPin covid update. at least it still seems to be worked on!

>>>>>
COVID-19 NOTICE: In recent days, The State of Michigan has declared a state of emergency in response to the spread of COVID-19 and its anticipated impact on our communities. During this situation, we wish to inform you that VirtuaPin is prepared to assist customers as much as possible. Our goal is to stay open and provide you with something to do while staying indoors.

We are working diligently at producing and packing our quality products, and we are doing everything within our power to complete production as close to on time as possible. We are currently a bit behind schedule, as there has been some disruptions in the supply chain. We are currently stocked with what we need to finish your cabinet orders. We will be working until we are instructed otherwise by our local or federal government and will keep you updated as events unfold over the next week(s).

Please stay healthy and well. We are limiting contact to as few people as possible, so we do not have any issues here at the shop. Our goal is to keep working and producing high quality cabinets and providing pinball parts!

Thank you, and we wish everyone the best during this hard time. We appreciate your business and we are going to get through this!

Sincerely,

Paul "Noah Fentz" Maletich
-VirtuaPin Cabinets

#711 4 years ago

no worries, thanks . I'm just happy for an update every few weeks on status .

#712 4 years ago

it's odd how being told to stay home doesn't work and makes you want to go out.

Day 12 of almost two weeks since wensday home. at least I got a little closer in this build. Coleco Pac-Man n ow working on portable mame. just a simple matter of how to assemble it all properly.

91095069_10157826238045211_6178864355753328640_n (resized).jpg91095069_10157826238045211_6178864355753328640_n (resized).jpg
1 week later
#714 4 years ago

hoping to get into the office tomorrow for the first time in a few weeks.

maybe I can get my reese rails on(Assuming they delivered ok in the crazy) and my remaining posts on...and switch out some new c clamps.

Was thinking though... if anyone has any extra wire enough, now would would be a good time to create extra wire harnesses ;o).

#715 4 years ago

C - Clamps secured. Reese rails have arrived.

#716 4 years ago

what screws can I use to properly put these on so they don't get damaged?

91884655_10157860390700211_5501871192283283456_n (resized).jpg91884655_10157860390700211_5501871192283283456_n (resized).jpg
#718 4 years ago

would these work? sometimes having a warehouse at work helps

92017101_10157860519235211_8231336661376565248_n (resized).jpg92017101_10157860519235211_8231336661376565248_n (resized).jpg
#719 4 years ago

how does that look?

92578533_10157860803470211_8603911420603531264_n (resized).jpg92578533_10157860803470211_8603911420603531264_n (resized).jpg
#722 4 years ago

Put the rubber from the old clamps on the new ones. switched out half... for now.

92136753_10157861261880211_1018192366260977664_o (resized).jpg92136753_10157861261880211_1018192366260977664_o (resized).jpg
#724 4 years ago

THe other problem with the drywall screw is that they cracked the wood a little in the rail. I won't install the last one yet until I get the screws above.

But, what else can I order from marco to fill out the other a little? Can I get all the book case parts from them, for instance? maybe I can assemble that next.

#726 4 years ago
Quoted from luch:

you may have to pre drill for the screws , oak is hard and can split

yeah, I stupidly figured that out about halfway through when i noticed the first crack. even if I was going slow..

#727 4 years ago

well, considering I'll get it all back tomorrow, put in an order for an almost complete Bookcase Assembly part set, + a main ramp. Maybe I can work on this and the Thing assembly in the next month or so.

Another $600 added to the economy .
also added the right screws...

#734 4 years ago

Also, what parts am I missing for the ramp install and to install the posts near the special light (with the adjustable base?)

#735 4 years ago

Sheet Metal Screw #6 x 1-1/4 inch p-flh-a 15 $0.21 $3.15
Machine Screw 8-32 x 1/2" p-ph-s 1 $0.20 $0.20
Washer .187 x .625 x .059 inch #8 2 $0.25 $0.50
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase cable 1 $12.00 $12.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Ramp main 1 $219.00 $219.00
Locking nut - plastic 1 $3.95 $3.95
Flange bearing 2 $1.50 $3.00
Flange - plastic 1 $10.95 $10.95
Shaft 1/4 x 2-9/64 inches 1 $2.00 $2.00
Adjusting screw Bally 1 $15.50 $15.50
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase lens 4 $3.95 $15.80
Washer 0.125 x 0.281 x .032 inch 2 $0.19 $0.38
Rivet - 1/8 x 1/4 inches nickel 2 $0.15 $0.30
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Plastic 1 $5.99 $5.99
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase top blue 1 $6.95 $6.95
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase frame blue 1 $7.95 $7.95
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase Base Blue 1 $14.99 $14.99
Sheet Metal Screw #6 x 3/8" p-ph 2 $0.15 $0.30
Cable clamp holder 1/4" diameter 2 $0.29 $0.58
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase opto board set 1 $37.95 $37.95
Sheet Metal Screw #6 x 3/8" p-ph 2 $0.15 $0.30
Nut 8-32 esn stop nut 5 $0.15 $0.75
Cable clamp holder 1/4" diameter 2 $0.29 $0.58
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Electric Chair 1 $27.95 $27.95
Mini-post 8-32 thread 2 $2.35 $4.70
Rivet - 1/8 sft D x 3/16 sft L x 7/32 Head A 4 $0.25 $1.00
Roll pin 3/32" x 5/8" 20A-8716-2 1 $0.20 $0.20
Sheet Metal Screw #8 x 7/8" p-th-type 25 2 $0.24 $0.48
Crank arm - large 1 $7.95 $7.95
Crank arm - small 1 $6.99 $6.99
Machine Screw 8-32 x 5/8 inch p-ph 4 $0.15 $0.60
Washer .187 x .437 x .053 inch #8 SAE 5 $0.08 $0.40
Machine Screw 2-56 x 7/16 inch p-ph-s 4 $0.28 $1.12
Twin nut plate dual 2-56 screw 2 $2.00 $4.00
Diode - 400 volts 1 amp XO-254 2 $0.19 $0.38
Switch sub-mini assembly 2 $3.59 $7.18
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bracket switch 2 $1.55 $3.10
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Motor bookcase 1 $79.00 $79.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase bracket 1$49.00 $49.00

almost complete book case order.

#738 4 years ago

one last order for the month. Switch subminiature with bracket A-11680 2 $8.95 $17.90
Rubber ring - White 27/64 inch or 7/16 inch OD 38-2764 4 $0.25 $1.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Metal ball guide left 01-10591-L 1 $9.25 $9.25
Ball guide - long runway 01-10599 1 $18.00 $18.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) subway chute assy A-15070 1 $59.00 $59.00

I should be able to assemble the bookcase now at least.

next month we'll look at the topper, the dmd, and maybe the boards.

#740 4 years ago

So, if I finish the book case and the Thing Hand... how much closer to a complete playfield will I be at this stage?
It looks like it should be at at least 50%.....

#742 4 years ago

trying to figure out how much is left after the big stuff is out of the way.

obviously the ball guides. The plastics set. the PCB's for the lights on the bottom. and the Flipper build is the main stuff I can think of now.

#749 4 years ago
Quoted from Stretch7:

I have a few of these available if needed they are polished stainless and i also have swirled stainless....the only issue there is only one hole for the small extra flipper power board on far right but it will still hold it in place. If your using the fliptronics 2 board then you dont need to use extra board...Otherwise these will work in all WPC - WPC/S games
$75.00 CA[quoted image][quoted image]

I may need one of these. shoot me a pm with details.

part of my book case order gets here monday. the larger order seems to be taking some time to get shipped. it looks like THING will cost just about as much, around ^600 to assemble, so he's going to have to wait till Friday to get ordered.

#750 4 years ago

With thing Parts ordered so far, total spent on project?

Around $5,000

once the cabinet arrives, it'll at least start to LOOK like a pinball machine that is mostly complete ;o).

Now I have to go through my complete parts list item, and check off the part numbers I do have to see what's left of the 3,000 or so parts needed.
but at least I can take a break from part ordering for a few weeks again. next time we pick up, i'll get a plastics set, a dmd, and maybe the flippers set.

#752 4 years ago

what the hell. last order for the month.
done buying things for a few weeks. the book case and thing assembly should keep me busy for a while.

ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Hand bracket A-15303 1 $28.95 $28.95
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Motor Thing 14-7966 1 $299.00 $299.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Motor bracket 01-10561 1 $14.99 $14.99
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Magnet core 02-4603 1 $10.95 $10.95
Machine Screw 6-32 x 1/4" p-ph 4006-01005-04 2 $0.11 $0.22
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bracket - anti trap 01-10655 1 $22.99 $22.99
Machine Screw 1/4-20 x 1/2" p-ph-sems 4020-01003-08 1 $0.45 $0.45
Washer .205 x 1.00 x .055 inch 4700-00130-00 1 $0.29 $0.29
Machine Screw 10-32 x 5/8" sl-bnd-hd-brass 4010-01062-10 1 $0.39 $0.28 $0.28
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Hand cable H-15228 1 $12.00 $12.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Opto board A-15285 1 $29.95 $29.95
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Interrupter assy A-15310 1 $12.25 $12.25
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Thing lower box A-14703 1 $79.00 $79.00

#753 4 years ago

thank you marco specialty parts for getting back to me in a fast fashion.

I thought something might be wrong with the order as it was t aking an unusually long time to ship and they confirmed some parts where on back order.
so they removed those parts and hopefully both orders will now ship soon.

may not have all book case parts, but at least close to it

#754 4 years ago

now, does the placement onthat subway chute look OK? something about it looks off...
I also can't figure out where my two purple star posts go.. I found all the clear ones.

93305525_10157889763195211_7942227388887203840_o (resized).jpg93305525_10157889763195211_7942227388887203840_o (resized).jpg93540835_10157889751375211_4018754624889552896_n (resized).jpg93540835_10157889751375211_4018754624889552896_n (resized).jpg

#755 4 years ago

delete info

#756 4 years ago

again, thank you marco. everything gets here thursday now, minus the out of stock items.

So, I'll be able to make a mostly complete thing and book case by the end of the week.

I also still need to know what I need to be able to install the main ramp. i know i am missing some parts, just not sure what.
I also can't seem to find where the two purple star posts go. they seem well hidden.

#759 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

Have you checked the manual for star post locations? That’s usually all diagrammed out and with part numbers/ descriptions

I can't remember if the manual showed the star posts....I will have to look at it again.
but the ones I can't seem to locate are these two darker colored ones.

maybe under some plastics?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8319-10

#763 4 years ago
Quoted from wallybgood:

[quoted image]

ahh, there they be. I think i put two white ones in there by mistake! I'll look when I Get in.

thanks!

#765 4 years ago

yep, already ran into some of that as a problem.

not looking forward to it being the main problem. it's great seeing it all come together so nicely and so fast. far faster than I would have thought.

although I know it's still got a long long way to go before it's even thought of as being powered on.

#768 4 years ago

projects keep the fun of life alive.

they give you something to look forward too, and something to focus on. and a great sense of completion when one is finally done. Worked that way with R2, 3P0 and now hopefully the pinball.

everyone should have at least one passion project around to keep them occupied in life.

#769 4 years ago

Ok, I replaced the two white ones with the blue-ish ones.

And apart from a few of the posts I have left, I think that is all the white star posts needed on there, minus the two I need by the special lights (what is the part on the bottom called they are attached too?)

The placement of that reese rod on the top left doesn't look right though. but it lines up with the pre drilled holes perfectly.
93122376_10157894001785211_147673443926540288_n (resized).jpg93122376_10157894001785211_147673443926540288_n (resized).jpg

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