Addams Family, The
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Quoted from Shredder565:Ordered the cabinet a month ago.. it's still 'qued for production' sadly.
plan to order the playfield next week.
after that, I want to get the bear ramp. thing, Things box, the transformer, the color dmd and the dmd 'thing cover'.
Do you need a Thing light board PCB (the classic twist lock wedge version)?
Shredder565
Don't worry about wire ramp. If you can't find it in the future, I can help about repro.
An example here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/90#post-5060442
Quoted from Shredder565:I read that elsewhere, that is one reason why I ordered the pop bumper bottoms sooner. maybe I can get to those first.
So, I spent the last 30 minutes trying to find a proper build video, some arn't even in english!
just trying a test fit to see if it looks right first... not drilling or screwing in anything yet.[quoted image]
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers
Quoted from Shredder565:step 1 done, step 2 in progress.
Proper screws in targets. all nice and stable. proper nuts going on. chair scoop installed.
awaiting pop bumper screw arrival. how's it look?[quoted image]
Can't you join for a local pinhead's pinball teardown party?
You can learn a lot about sequences, screws, posts, and all the methods used in WPC games. This helps a lot for your own build.
Quoted from AaronZOOM:Forty cent rubber ring? Forty dollars shipping.
"Only" $40?
Starts from $52 to Europe... Amazing.
On top of that, I can't pay in USD in Paypal, only in my currency. They exchange rate is very bad.
76025b8837e46c2c2341d799a5c07a8908a898d8 (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:my first spade bolt install. which way does the ball guide face? to the left of the wire, or the right of the wire?[quoted image]
Check carefully HEP gallery - almost always you will find the answer.
Quoted from Shredder565:So, let me see if I'm understanding all this properly.
The LCD version can be used as a replacement for the THING lamps, as it's big enough to fit over that section?
that's how my limited brain read all that, so there's a good chance i'm wrong .
You can start with Color DMD LCD without light board.
If the brightness is too low, and you are ready for DIY:
Light Board Mod TAF and DW.pdf
Quoted from mjr:It would make a good test, but I'm not sure it's really necessary to go to the trouble. The step where you install the playfield is actually pretty easy, in that there aren't any fasteners involved. The fasteners are all in the prep steps, with the playfield out of the cab: you attach the pivot nuts to the cabinet walls, and you separately attach the 01-8726 brackets to the underside of the playfield. The playfield then drops in simply by sliding the brackets onto the pivot nuts. It's designed specifically so that you can move the playfield in and out of the cab with the playfield populated.
Quoted from Shredder565:Okie dokie. I Was getting the two cab images confused. I thought one was the playfield on it's side heh. I'll tackle it sometime next week..
Why don't you look for help for exact X-Y measurements, like this?
Tons of AF owners here (or in AF club thread).
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/9#post-4620674
Quoted from Shredder565:So, as I understand it, once these two parts attach to the playfield, they will pretty much go in like this? only straighter ?[quoted image][quoted image]
Don't forget to connect ground braid under every metal part (where the electric shock is a risk), like siderails screw, power box, lockdown receiver, shooter, transformer leg, leg bolt plate, coin door, etc.
You can find examples in HEP thread:
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album411/46_G?full=1
Inside, right wall. Note: measurement in cm from the bottom inside. 1 inch is 2.54 cm.
On the paper the pitch is 1/2 cm.
Total 6 positions, no need to drill, use hex head wood screw. Left and right for fine tune, middle to fix.
20201201_221120 (resized).jpg20201201_221149 (resized).jpg20201201_221227 (resized).jpg20201201_222052 (resized).jpg20201201_221544 (resized).jpg20201201_221742 (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:So, while I await my wire to arrive....and begin more adventures in soldering...
is there anything special I need to attach the boards to this metal cpu board?
Reminder set to 4 months from now 
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-scratch-build/page/30#post-5943328
Quoted from Shredder565:browsing a hep thread...this might give me a better angle
looks like one right above the bally and one right above the pinball.
[quoted image]
4 months ago...
My exact measurement, especially for you:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-scratch-build/page/33#post-5989685
Quoted from Shredder565:so, what I can tell is that this piece goes like this. that top tab gets bent down for some reason, and the right side tab gets bent toward the boards so it folds across. The other piece with the two holes goes on the bottom. not sure on the rest.[quoted image]
Screenshot_20210414-233838_Gallery.jpgQuoted from Shredder565:one done . and eventually this is what the topper will look like when my extra wire comes in to wire it. maybe not pretty but it works for me [quoted image][quoted image]
Lower clamp: hex wood screw, no need to drill the lamp board. You can't undone it, makes sense to rotate the screw (heads are front side)
Quoted from Shredder565:with the latches in place.. just missing a translite, and the wire for the topper lights and the back box will be done. hopefully all next week arriving. is that all that is left to power it on minus the extra wire order?[quoted image]
Good progress.
Need to add a U channel to the bottom.
Quoted from Shredder565:I also showed the educated electricians in our office the schematic for the light wiring, and they couldn't grasp it. they thought there was more info missing :/. useless office employees ;o)
As pinballinreno said:
Use the lamp and switch matrixes. These are the maps for lamps and switches.
Lamp matrix is at page 3-2 in the manual.
You can find 8 red and 8 yellow connection in a matrix. It creates maximum 64 connections (8x8).
Red and yellow are the wire colors (primary color) - and we have stripes as secondary colors (brown, red, orange, etc.).
For example you have to find the wiring for the "?" insert. It's available at the connection of row 5 (red/green) and column 6 (yellow/blue).
Use these wires for this lamp socket. Red goes to diode negative side.
IMG-20211020-WA0001 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20220828-003952_Drive (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:Sent .
OK, I really need someone with more time to waste on these things . this was as far as we where able to get, and I don't want to hook up some, with no fuses for all, so I guess I'll wait for more to come in.
but does this look right so far with this mockup? we can't really see where some of the yellows go in there, and I know not to assume .[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Read the lamp matrix. Yellow/red goes to all pop bumper lamps as common column wire.
The diode look backwards.
It's time to clean the playfield, there are many metal debris - short circuit risk.
Quoted from Shredder565:So, now that the bottom is amazingly nearing completion.. how many of you thought I would never get this far? . be honest .,
Honestly? Close to 100%.
But - if I change the word "I" to "we", then the answer is close to 0%
But at the end of the day it's your result, be proud of that.
Quoted from Shredder565:Also, This is our mystery cut wire, with no other cut wire to go to it. It's only one strand of wire, looks like it wants to go to the third pin out from the left.
odd thing is, ALL the house lights are working fine. i'm wondering if somehow this is why my one other controlled light isn't working.[quoted image]
Again: check the lamp matrix.
The cut wire is a red/blue wire. This row goes to lamps 16, 26, 36, 46, etc, ended with 6. The house lights are managed by a lampboard PCB, except 66 and 45. Is 66 works? This lamp is close enough to the cut wire.
If 66 works, then check lamp 16, 26, 36 etc.
IMG-20211020-WA0001(1) (resized).jpgScreenshot_20221011_001449 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20221011_001836 (resized).jpgQuoted from Juicerc51:i just pinned the THING light board connector not long ago. i am 95% sure its 9-position, 0.154". there are 7 lights, a power and a key. i can get the colors and pins later this evening when I'm home if you need it. i am used the LED board but the pins are the same.
This the BOM for the harness.
Screenshot_20221104_173153 (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:I wound up going for this one
https://coinoppartsetc.com/product/games-parts-pinball-machine-parts/williams-fish-tales-pinball-machine-game-apron-4225-for
it looked like it was in good shape. it was blue, meaning that when I scan it, it'll scan much easier than black. and if the scan file posts ok, I'll put it up online and maybe someone can make a dwg out of it for send cut send.
A: original TAF for $44 plus powder coat
or
B: Fish Tales apron for $145, plus scan (results will be sh**), then someone can make a dwg, then send cut send for $ (outcome will be far from original), then powder coat
I don't see a scenario when option B is the winner.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The Apron generally is not the problem. Its the wire fence that is impossible to get and "REALLY" difficult to make without specialized bending tools.
Let me know how many wire fence you guys need, and I will take care of this.
Quoted from Shredder565:Yep, the spacers. will be ordering about 20 of them today.
IIRC, the connector wasn't included. but, already have the parts needed to make my own, so just needed to see how many wires where in it and what color .
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-scratch-build/page/65#post-7223394
Quoted from transprtr4u:Should go to the main board , sorry been a while since I had a TAF...
Sure someone will chime in with the proper connector number..
Quoted from Shredder565:but where does the other connector go?
The other end has 2 connectors. One goes to J133/J134/J135 (rows, red) the other one to J137/J138 (columns, yellow).
Quoted from Shredder565:Did I make it wrong? I made both ends in one piece...
For THING lightboard harness, you need 3 connectors. I posted the BOM earlier.
First connector goes to the lampboard
Second goes to power driver board (PDB)- contains only one column wire (yellow/grey)
Third goes to PDB - contains 7 red (row) wires
Screenshot_20230213_001903_Drive (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:PC board for the flasher now out of stock at action pinball...
I have a dozen of flasher PCB, for Indiana Jones, with rounded ends.
What is the distance between the holes in TAF?
20230316_211612 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:That would work perfectly!
The holes just match the flasher dome.
I think its the same flasher dome in any color?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8149-13
Yes, that flasher dome. Then this PCB works.
Quoted from Shredder565:thank you sir . I still have too get around to the cliffy order, but he's back ordered so it might be a while befor my bear kick ramp is finished
Yes - flasher PCB's are on the way to USA (to @pinballinreno).
Free of charge - it's my contribution to your project.
Quoted from mmr61184:I have my game apart and looking at all the parts now
1 on the stone that covers where the train is
1 on the curtains on the left side which is what shredder just
Competed
1 behind things telephone
The chrome ball ramp uses the socket that pinballinreno put a picture up of
Yes, 3 assemblies.
PPS-A-15369-3L (resized).jpgdetail (1) (resized).jpgdetail (2) (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:one benefit of working in an electrical office. we now have a cad drawing of it. how do we add in all the extra info needed in order to send this off to a board pcb printer.
maybe I can add another of the 'un obtanium ' pieces off the list [quoted image]
CAD drawing is not applicable for PCB manufacturing.
You received the flasher PCB for free few days ago.
Quoted from Shredder565:are these the correct spacers for the plastics?
I can start on these, at least [quoted image]
It's not for playfield plastics. This plastic goes for special places, like the biplane in Indiana Jones.
You need the series 03-8022:
43 pcs 03-8022-1 spacer .541 L
4 pcs 03-8022-3 spacer 1.171 L
2 pcs 03-8022-4 spacer .250 L
6 pcs 03-8022-5 spacer .343 L
2 pcs 03-8022-6 spacer .733 L
0.541 is usually for playfield lampboards.
Quoted from wallybgood:Hey 565
Looked over some of my old notes on the Bookcase wiring and thought that they might help you.
Wally
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Great Wally, King of scratch builds
Quoted from pinballinreno:the power box should be actually sitting on the wood block, not above it or hovering above it.
there should be no space between the power box and the wooden block.
The cabinet slam switch still needs to be 2" further left or more.
The flipper switch neeeds another screw to keep it from splaying out. the way is sits it will likely cause a direct shot.
you cant run the flipper switch wire around THAT wooden block, it has to drop way before the block for the playfield support.
trim off the excess ground braid above the coin door before it causes a direct short.
Your patience is one of the greatest virtue of this thread.
You are amazing.
Quoted from Shredder565:all the rest of the shrink tubes are done. I took out the lamp boards and cleaned out any spare wires or screws that might have gotten stuck (two where hiding in cousin it). secured all wires that where done so they don't move anywhere.
the only thing I forgot about where two flashers at the top, since I can't do the ones on the ramp yet. and that's these two. assuming this is the connection in the upper right. something for december.
so, too summarize.
short is gone. start button works, tilt works, flippers work, switch works, cabinet side is done. will need to see what the cloud gi flasher cable looks like and make that.
all Solenoids work. new coil for the eject lane didn't arrive today like it should have, so will save that for the next round.
all flashers work and all gi lights work, minus cloud toppers and two left flashers...
so, all in all, not in bad shape.
sometime late december after christmas, wire switch harness will go on one switch at a time. hoping to start the new year with testing phase, FINALLY, after soon to be four long years .
hope everyone had a good holiday .
[quoted image][quoted image]
I don't recommend to use sockets with horizontal long legs for GI.
Next short is just a question of time.
Instead, use the original socket with miniature (and vertical) legs:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-11905
Hints...
1. Remove all solder splashes from the playfield (risk of shorts).
2. Cut the excess exposed and non exposed wires.
3. Remove all extra screws.
4. Cut flush the cable ties. It will hurt you one day as is.
In general, keep the playfield clean.
Screenshot_20231127-215706_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20231127-215949_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20231127-220025_Chrome (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:for whatever reason, my metalback plate does not have those little tabs in the section where the board goes.
it's just a square hole :/. 4 ordered..
3 years ago...
How many did you ordered?
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