Allentown, PA
Just wondering what you plan on using for a wire harness ?
(Topic ID: 257696)
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Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
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1 week later
1 week later
2 months later
Quoted from Shredder565:ordered this sucker for the rivets. thinking of getting the back box mounting boards done today too..
https://www.erivet.com/product_detail.cfm?ID=ERIVET_4514374_98712240&itemtype=CLNCR&brand_cd=&view=list&sortBy=itemNbr_asc&itemNbr=HT%2D350
Great riveter. I put mine in my drill press and then “ press “ them in
1 year later
5 months later
Dam man.... Your making twitchy and guessing myself with all ythis soldering/ desoldering stufff.... Send me your address and I see d ya the best fkn solder you can work with free. Low melting point
Still in the wrapper..... but your not getting the whole roll 
1 month later
1 year later
Quoted from Shredder565:maybe tnt amusements makes house calls. following their videos and they are in pa.
Honestly.... because of this being a scratch build I highly doubt anyone would want to touch this. Too many unknowns sorry to say.
SOLDER, SOLDER, SOLDER.... It's so darn easy and flows like liquid when done correctly. Going any further without doing this is a total waste of time and money.
Use a cheap Weller gun if you half too
Most important is the SOLDER you use. Buy some good 60/40 rosin core that has lead on EPAY, This new solder is garbage and sux ass as its contains no lead.
Use high heat on switches around 700 degrees..
1) ..Tin wire and switch with solder
2) .. Heat tinned tang on switch and wire together and add solder if needed
3).. Don't move untill solder cools and yes your fingers will get hot. Happens alot
4).. Heat shrink for Petes sake.....using tape or leaving exposed is a joke.
Its sooooo easy I could literally solder 3/4 connections a minute if the heat shrink was already slipped on the wire.
Seriously, soldering is MUCH less difficult than what you make it out to be or have accomplished.
Quoted from Shredder565:if stuff tends to be reliable, I tend to keep it . but, it WAS time for an upgrade.
I got this sucker.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087767KNW
Total shit ..... need more watts. They work for a bit and then dont heat up well
Christ man, buy a decent iron it will make your life easy.
And ONLY 60/40 rosin core!!!
Over 10k in parts and only spends 10 bucks on an iron..... Houston, I think we have a problem.
Quoted from Shredder565:Like I said.. want pc part recommendations? I can help. soldering irons? not so much.
Just get a Hakko FX 888.... more than enough iron .
And ONLY buy direct from Hakko as they are sooooooo many FAKES out there
Quoted from pinballinreno:63/37 now.
I will likely never go back to 60/40
I have about 8 big rolls of 60/40 of radio shack in various sizes that I bought 15 years ago before the lead ban.
Not for sale even though they are fetching 75 plus or more.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:You have been doing it correctly.
I have to disagree.... when the edges curl snd deform or a sharp solder connection pokes through he heated the tubing too much.
IMO he used the wrong size heat shrink , tried to over heat to compensate , and now has this deformed unshrunk monstrosity sitting there.
What the hell do I know I only do this on a daily basis.
Pinside_forum_7878288_1 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:Yep, I use mine all the time, I like the little metal shield that blows hot air back up from the bottom.
You can even use the hot metal to tap areas down a little bit if you need to.
It works very well and is versitile.
I also use it for Solderstick connectors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BP812YSK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00
No more twisting, soldering and then heat shrinking.
I like soldering and find it to be a more professional joint. I also just use a regular Bic disposable lighter to heat the heat shrink
I have many concerns about doing this.
1) It looks to be a pain in the ass and how do you work in tight areas
2) No mechanical connection like twisting the wires so you need extra stuff to hold them while you heat
3) Low temp solder.... hmmmm ???
4) Bulky ... I would not want to do 5 or 6 side by side and getting the exact fit especially if you have two or three wires on one end and 1 on the other
5) Heat guns by other wires or boards ..... that one is a big NO for me.
Use what ya like, im sticking with the old tried and true method . Best way there is if done properly.
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Could he bend the existing legs 90 degrees?
When you bend them there's a chance of cracking the insulator which will cause a short
1 week later
Quoted from pinballinreno:Its my 8th and last TAF. I bought out a lot of games from an operator 20 years ago.
Im trying to use up all of my left over NOS parts on it, or at least as many as I can.
I have re-cleared the playfield (as you have seen) and it looks perfect after having cured for a few weeks.
So, I have had my fill of this title and need to move on!
Will you be selling when it’s finish. May be interested
1 week later
Quoted from setzkor:...ha, says the guy building his first pinball machine. I assure you nothing on these things are ever sealed up "for good". Unless of course you don't ever plan on playing it
You are 100% correct .... but let's let the guy enjoy this milestone. It's been years in the making. Congrats so far.
1 month later
Not trying to be a downer, insult you , or hurt your feelings.... but at what point do we stop encouraging Shreader565.
The stress that he's putting himself through " let alone the every component on this build" is it worth it. Not to say the $$$$$
Does anyone actually think this will be a SAFE and reliable working game one day. Would you trust it enough to leave it running unattended in your home. How long will it actually work if finished.
These are the questions that should be asked . We would all be very saddened if this was to catch fire and destroy a home or worst.
With so many quality issues I know my answer. Sorry
I honestly feel terrible for him as he's seems like a good dude. Makes me wanna drive to his house and desolder and replace every switch, and then reflow every coil after winter .
For now.... stop trouble shooting and take the time to redo what is done correctly.
Quoted from pinballinreno:What would be the fun in this?
He has devoted 3 years of his LIFE on this project. IT WILL BE COMPLETED AND RUN PROPERLY.
The REAL challenge is to build a TAF without any pinball experience, no prior pinball knowledge, and basically no skills in the slightest.
Having a sample to copy is JUST TO EASY !
He has learned AMAZING skills in a VERY short time.
Just think about what has been done so far with metal bending of flat rails, sourcing of light boards, getting all of the parts from the BOM.
In the mean time he has learned the value of a schematic, the inner workings of a switch/lamp matrix etc., TONS of pinball information!
Sure there are a couple fires and some blown up boards.
But thats the cost of experimentation and learning.
"Get the marshmallows ready, He's gonna fire it up again!" lol.
Just kidding, the fires wont be big enough for roasting marshmallows...
Go Shredder Go ! ! ! !
Hey American..Im offering my service Join me
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Not sure what I’m supposed to be thinking when looking at this PCB, but noticed these two eye sores:
[quoted image]
What the hell is that..... a zero ohm resistor. 
1 week later
Quoted from Jmckune:Why would you not check voltage first before redoing an entire connector? It could lead you to a problem upstream and prevent you from wasting time on a connector
Because that would make sense.
1 week later
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/electrical_supplies/92-0032-00
I have two of these and use them all the time. One at work and one for home
Im not sure why you are having so much trouble with this. It's not a good crimp. You're not grabbing the insulation with the top crimp and the inner one is not grabbing the wire.
When you crimp the pin, insert the pin in the crimper and hold it gently at the middle crimp, insert the wire ( should only be stripped about 1/8 inch) into the pin and crimp. Then move the crimper to the outside crimp and do the same to the casing. The casing must be crimped as thats what gives it strenght.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Jmckune:I….dont even understand what I’m looking at. Is that a wire that is connected to a diode which is connected to only one side of the lug?
I can honestly say.... "I think were done here" WTF
Quoted from hoby1:I can honestly say.... "I think we're done here" WTF
2 weeks later
Quoted from Pooman2084:Get yourself one of these. You will be adjusting leaf switches all over the playfield for weeks / months to get the game dialled in and this will save you replacement parts and time.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html
Really??? .... beside the pops, EOS, slam tilt and slings every thing else is micros.
Quoted from hoby1:Really??? .... beside the pops, EOS, slam tilt, targets and slings every thing else is micros.
2 weeks later
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