yep, I did a search on how to remove, found chris's video, and just ordered the tool he used. got the ram chips out ok. they are in the new board. waiting for the new tool to carefully get the asic chip out.

As for the test, They all worked... although, every time I touched a pin, the entire row shorted. no single switch went off by itself. also, pin three on BOTH 206 and 207 did not work.
I might still send the old board out too chris for re-repairs so I have a spare.

The new switch matrix harness is on it's way. the asic removal tool is on it's way. so until that gets here, I Will focus on the motors and the opto bookcase wires and get that all done.

I did not get around to that one yet. the new board had arrived and had already taken the u4 and u6 out by then.

Hopefully we can get the new board safely fired up by the end of the week and THAT problem will be solved. but, can't do anything until then except work on the opto's and motors.

I just went through and made sure all the lights are soldered on properly. even though I dislike doing it until I know everything is working, I will do the switches next.

Lights are confirmed secure. I even moved a few that looked too close to metal, even though they where not touching. switches done again. tomorrow, I will work on the bookcase and get that finally finished.

ASIC tool gets here thursday. First, we can see if that solves the short problem. then test the 12v regulation to see if that caused the switch problem.

Not going to hook up the new harness until all this stuff is squared away first. If all that other stuff checks out, harness goes on next. THEN the underside should be done. As well as having a cabinet finally wired fully.

will celebrate with a nice looong break. and maybe go into test mode in december. got alot more done, alot more set back...but almost nearing the finish line.

on the bright side, cabinet is finally wired.

would be nice if it was a little neater... but at least it's finally done. and soldered.

IMG_0044 (resized).jpg

didn't have the proper size for the stake ons /plumb bob. so had to use what we had in the warehouse. looks weird, but it works.

sadly, the wires where not long enough too reach the floor, and I did not want to have exposed stuff anymore than I had too. I guess I could recrimp them and make the wires longer.

what size stake ons are used for the plumb bob? I will get some and crimp them on.

I was looking for the post with the tilt switch info, but couldn't refind it on first glance. those are not soldered on yet, because I knew it needed a diode.

I wasn't sure what size it needed, so I used what I Had, and yeah. if it stays that way, it WILL be covered by 3m tape.

I have a bunch of it handy, but never got around to looking up how to properly use it. will be looking on youtube one of these days.

off to youtube I go

time too watch a disaster unfold for someone else, for a change . this is the corporate game of thrones for us nerds, and more interesting than anything disney has put out in recent years ;o)

tommorow, should get the bookcase finished, as I got the switches done today. found a video on shrinktubing....will give it a test try first.

last thing for today and off tomorrow. still need at least 7 more of those cable wraps.

better?
also moved down the coin door board.

IMG_0045 (resized).jpg

I DID look at the pictures in the thread, and even had them saved. but I only have so many wire cables to use at the moment, so tried to follow where I could and used all I had left.
forgot about the wires too the left. will fix those now, and order some more cable organizers. as well as those in the middle. a bit of swearing trying to get those screws stable enough to drill in.

I've also asked about 2 times what size wire snap ons are needed for the tilt bob, and I will fix that. lots of replies, so understand stuff gets glossed over.
Next week I'm finishing the book case and motors. then taking a 4 week break till december.
do not want to make any mistakes with the new harness.

startin' to get flustered, since I know I can't get it right now....so time to stop for the day.

I moved the knocker down lower so it's just above the power supply. I lowered the power cord cable.

I lowered the Tilt Bob and coin door and moved both closer to the front, as in the photo. front left still needs taken care of as is the back.
that's it for today.

CpWz_030 (resized).jpg

does the new placement look better? it's not as neatly placed as a hep...though.

thank you. I have mouser and digi key bookmarked, so will add wirebot to the list.
ordered now.

yes, I just went back to look, and it is indeed there. moving to many items around :/..

just ordered some crimps, bigger heat shrink tubes for the gi light connections, and some loop organizers.

will try to get it looking as neat as possible.

i'm trying. gets frustrating being so close :/.

monday, bookcase. Tuesday, mpu back in order hoping for no short.Wensday, finish cabinet wire organization. Thursday....harness arrives. Friday, 3 week break

I will do the voltage test first before turning it on.

has to be closer too ten or 11 now, with a few of the set back rebuys.

HOPING that is the last of it and that I have everything I need to complete the top when this last phase is done.

Bookcase gets done monday. thing motor gets done monday. Flashers are finished. lights are finished. switches will get redone in a few weeks after the break. Cabinet wiring, minus the plumb bob switch diode, is done. cabinet wiring organization is in progress. Toppers are done.

it needs a healthy readout on the mpu... switches being complete. the bear kick ramp too be done. a few plastics left to put together. two lights by the bookcase, two lights by the bear kick. three (?) switches on the metal ramp, and bear kick. that's really all that's left that needs to be done...

another reason for a break. starting too mix things up and forget.....need a fresh start after next week

and yes, I mentioned a page or two back that i will do it one switch at a time. will not speed through

yep, I know. I'm just getting tired of the set backs, un expected or otherwise. so close too calling it a wrap gets frustrating.

well, you can stop holding your breath. LONG break time coming.. we'll see if I pick this thing up in december, because right now i'm tempted to throw everything out.

CAREFULLY put the new board in and the new chips. double and tripple checked. everything was in and organized properly.. mpu board did not power on. top light stayed on, bottom light stayed on. this was the old board. took it out, did the same with the new board. all of a sudden, ALL five jets turned on once, and it made a noise. that was it for that. ALL power Driver board lights stay on now, all mpu board lights stay off... and I think i'm officially crying now.

At this rate, I'll just complete the playfield and fuck the electronics. I can at least pretend it works :/. Maybe I'll just enjoy my new ATGames digital version coming in january. wallet can not afford any more fixes for this year.

at the very least, if I pick it up again, I'll need a pro too come out here and check it over for anything wrong BEFORE it's turned on. think i've reached the limit where I can do it myself.

maybe tnt amusements makes house calls. following their videos and they are in pa.

was about to disconnect everything and see if there was a new problem for chris to look at.

but, I noticed a blown fuse on the power driver board. replaced that. now, back to where we where at first. the top light on the old mpu stays on, bottom light on the old mpu stays on. middle light blinks. dmd works, but stays at the boot static screen.

maybe it's not as bad as it looks....but my stress levels are still up, and it will need a pro to look it over for the home stretch.

at this point, all I want to do is get the playfield finished and save the electronics nonsense for next year.