(Topic ID: 257696)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
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Kent, WA
1 month later
Quoted from Shredder565:Could the one wrong diode have messed things up this badly, or can that be ruled out?
On the bright side, all switches work now, minus two, and I hope to have that problem solved in a minute with a de solder and a test. followed a white wire back, realized it only connected to two switches and nowhere else, so going to jumper it to the nearest color wire in the string of rows/columns and hope that solves that issue. maybe it'll finally get 76, left trough and the kicker all working properly. and I can put that one in the books.
You know that people have explained how to check the matrix to make sure that you are connecting these wires to the right spots? Why not do that before soldering to a random spot that may or may not be correct?
9 months later
Quoted from Shredder565:I can hear the compliments now...'your wall art better not wreck my trophy art!, or scratch the walls!' ;o)
One bad soldering job done, about 30 more too go. I'm afraid too test these things. if something malfunctions, is there a quick way to stop the test/damage?
[quoted image]
Helps to make a good mechanical connection first before you solder. Strip enough wire to wrap it through and around the coil lug first then add solder. Both joints there could use some more solder flowed.
2 months later
Check switches on the adjacent rows for either the metal tabs touching/shorted together or a diode wired backwards. Do this before desoldering everything!
Quoted from Shredder565:Officially at a loss on where this switch short could possibly be.
Everything on the shorted row got disconnected except for the center jets. still showed up. Now, I disconnected the center jets, and nope. still there. am I going to have to do every switch over again at this rate?
3 weeks later
Quoted from Shredder565:i'm trying. gets frustrating being so close :/.
monday, bookcase. Tuesday, mpu back in order hoping for no short.Wensday, finish cabinet wire organization. Thursday....harness arrives. Friday, 3 week break
I would not hook up your new MPU until you're sure you don't have an issue with solenoid voltage hitting the switch matrix somehow.
From what you've written here it doesn't seem like you've confirmed whether your short is in the wiring or actually something wrong with your current MPU? Until you figure out where the short is you risk having it blow something on the new MPU.
Quoted from Shredder565:if stuff tends to be reliable, I tend to keep it . but, it WAS time for an upgrade.
I got this sucker.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087767KNW
You will want to immediately swap that pencil tip for one of the wedge tips shown.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Shredder565:If I can just get these switches finished.... it's only a matter of hooking up the thing motor, and putting on his case. then, finishing the top side. 95% done once switches get sorted. and was so close to THAT before this gremlin popped up....sigh.
the only switches hooked up now are G/R/CousinIt/OutHole/Center Upper Trough/and Chair. all those register properly in T.1 when button is pushed and do not cause any more shorts..The diodes are re straightened on these, not bent anymore. and wire is going to proper lug with diode facing proper way.
the rest of the wires are currently hooked up like this, NOT touching themselves, OR anything metal. So, for example, when I cross the lower jet wires for a second in the T1 test to see if they work, it shows up as ticket opto now. and, as I recall, that one isn't even used.
I don't want to hook the other wires working back up, just in case they stop working again later :/. it would be nice to get everything back to the way it was before I Started, with all wires working with the jumper test and then go back to hooking it up switch by switch.[quoted image]
Is the chair kickout working?
You say the lower jet shows up as ticket opto, is it just the ticket opto that's also firing or is it multiple switches?
Very hard to help you troubleshoot when you haven't learned how the switch matrix works. I'm not saying that to attack you but rather to emphasize that copying other's work will only get you so far. If you don't understand how and why the diodes and switches are wired you will continue to run into problems.
I'm worried you could have blown a switch matrix IC by shorting to solenoid voltage when you did the slingshot switches as that's when you mentioned the problems starting.
Quoted from Shredder565:Swamp is all but done. for whatever reason, it does not like one switch on the orange line. take it off, jump test it, works perfectly, other switches work perfectly..... hook it up to the switch, a solenoid continuously fires for about 10 seconds and stops, switch doesn't work, but others fine.
guess we'll find out in a few days, didn't have a new switch to test it with.
Which solenoid?
Stuff happening like that is not some kind of voodoo magic. It doesn't just happen randomly, but you have to be interested in learning if you want to diagnose the problem.
The build is impressive, but you've spent a lot of time and money on what will be a subpar product if you can't pay attention to the details required to finish things off.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, so, I hooked them up except for position 2 and position 5. I have two red/blacks there because I didn't have Violet.
On the PCB side, what is the proper pin designation for Red Black that goes to Position 2? once I identify that one, the other is easy .
Tested what I DID hook up and it's all working Properly now.
Also, for the back box, where do the other two pins go? I have one black and one white on either end...just can't remember where the two middle ones go.
Once these two things get done, It's just the EOS switches for next week.
Ordered the new light harness from Jim, someone is interested in the old one, so that won't go to waste. someone with more patience to run wires than I have can get it done properly.
If I can get the EOS switches working next week. It's just a simple matter of finding the correct position to nail THINGs hand into place, drop on his metal covering....and with THAT, it's time for some Koala's in the Rain (AKA, underside should be done for non youtubers )[quoted image]
All of the connector pinouts are listed in the manual. If you haven't been using that to double-check your work I am amazed you have made it this far. Regardless you really need to check the pinouts yourself especially when you're not always using factory wire coloring. The pinouts are listed in the last few pages of the manual on IPDB, but I assume you hopefully have a physical copy of it as well. That should be easier to reference.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Shredder565:what I seem to have a problem with, is the molex pins popping out of their housing on occasion.
these tend to look a little more....stable...in connection?
lots of pictures pop up with these type of connections in their games.
They're not more stable. IDC connectors are bottom of the barrel for that. Definitely go for trifurcons if given the option.
Quoted from hoby1:Not trying to be a downer, insult you , or hurt your feelings.... but at what point do we stop encouraging Shreader565.
The stress that he's putting himself through " let alone the every component on this build" is it worth it. Not to say the $$$$$
Does anyone actually think this will be a SAFE and reliable working game one day. Would you trust it enough to leave it running unattended in your home. How long will it actually work if finished.
These are the questions that should be asked . We would all be very saddened if this was to catch fire and destroy a home or worst.
With so many quality issues I know my answer. Sorry
Come on dude. He's made plenty of mistakes but nothing that catastrophic. What exactly do you imagine will catch on fire?
If he's able to work through the rest of the issues it will be reliable enough, and he has shown a remarkable amount of tenacity. I've rescued far worse than what he's currently got, as has pretty much anyone who has ever picked up a route rat and put the time in.
The main issue currently is that the work he has left is all of the attention to detail variety that I think he would be one of the first to say is not his strong suit.
Getting through the switch matrix means that redoing the lamp matrix should be a breeze in comparison!
3 weeks later
Quoted from Shredder565:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMM4YUY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
as posted a few back, this is what I used.
Crimper is fine. Technique could probably use some work. Notice in the crimped pins posted above how they wrap tightly around the wire insulation and even constricts it a bit.
Compared to the pictures you posted where the wings on the pin are not making good contact with the wire- barely hanging on. Not a problem currently but over time it definitely will be.
Quoted from Shredder565:it's hard enough to do it without video, think with video is impossible.
not sure how many of these are going to have to be redone, but I'm finished for the day. I may just used pre crimped wire and solder the friggers together.
[quoted image]
The bottom of the crimp pin needs to wrap around the wire insulation. If it can't you have stripped too much and need to trim some of the stripped wire. They're bound to fall off the way that you have crimped them currently.
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