He has said that he has uploaded the files to somewhere that you can get them, not sure where.

I provided the parts via shapeways; PM me for details.
They won't be cheap... and the files will not be made available for anyone to print for themselves. Don't ask.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-clubmembers-only/page/213#post-7802600

Question, you can run the time out for the stage 1 modes, but for stage 2 and 3, you actually have to finish them?

Yes, for Tier 2/3 missions, you have to complete all shots to complete the mission(how many will be indicated on the DMD). Some T2/3 missions have timers, some do not. If a timer runs out on a T2/3 mission, then the mode ends but saves your progress. You will have to start the mission again to pick up where you left off until all the shots are made, no matter how many timers you run through. Length of timers for each mission that have them can be adjusted in the game settings too, so if want to give yourself more of a grace period to make shots without restarting, you can. Likewise, if you're looking for more of a challenge, you can reduce the timers.

Does anyone know how/where I can find out what the part # is for these rubber-ring posts with top-mount holes for the plastics' screws? I cannot find it in the manual that came with my Premium (2018 Vault build). I have one post in the pop bumper area that I accidentally sheared off a screw in and need to replace. They're all over the playfield but I cannot figure out a part number.

IMG_6215 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6216 (resized).jpeg

Is it this?

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-hex-bumper-post-530-5679-00.html

Oooh! It just might be. I’d been looking on Marco Specialities under parts tagged for the specific game without luck.

Thank you!

Up until I saw this post, I never realized that those were supposed to be rings mounted on those posts... My pro (routed) came with full sleeves on those posts when I bought it. Yikes, I should probably swap those sleeves out... Here's to hoping Titan has a BF sale this year! Thanks for posting!

Someone had asked for a glass cover design for their Bally Star Trek. It is now available in my store if anyone is interested for $50. I also have other Star Trek designs available for the other models. Thanks very much.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1505-duke-pinball/09765-bally-star-trek-glass-cover-

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I tried something recently when trying to achieve different modes (i.e. Prime Directive, Space, Jump, Save the Enterprise, Nero, etc..) and was curious about the rules if anyone can help.

I usually will play and try to get through all the Level 1 portion of these modes, but recently I've tried to focus on 1 mode, for example Space Jump or Save the Enterprise and I noticed that if you do only one mode, but complete all 3 levels in that mode, the game states "3 in a row."

Do you know what shots award bonuses for these type of "3 in a rows"???

Typically if you do Prime Directive-Space Jump-Save Enterprise = bonus points on ramp shots for example, but I don't know what happens if all you have is Save the Enterprise, but complete all 3 levels of this mode and it states "3 in a row."

Thanks in advance for any help or ideas to how this works with rules!

Each mode “stack” makes one shot on the playfield permanently 2x I don’t remember which is which but check Tilt Forums it’s listed on there.

Forgot about Tilt Forums, that was very helpful and your right when each mode is stacked to their 3rd level, it is 2x whatever shot that is specified for that stacked mode completion.

For easy reference in future for anyone else who wonders, below are stacked 2X shots (for remainder of game):

Prime Directive = 2x Left scoop
Space Jump = 2x Right orbit
Save the Enterprise = 2x Right ramp
Nero= 2x Left orbit
Destroy the Drill = 2x Warp ramp
Klingon Battle = 2x Left ramp

Hey folks, having an issue on a ST Pro...

Shaker motor turned on mid-game and wouldn't turn off.

Disabling Shaker Motor in the std adj didn't resolve.

Reseating the two connectors on the interface didn't resolve.

Restarting the machine didn't resolve. The shaker starts up on power up.

After looking at the manual, I'm going to re-seat the J8 power cconnector in the backbox to see if that helps, but I don't have high hopes.

My best guess is that the shaker motor PCB (520-5065-00) needs to be replaced, but is there anything else that I should check before I order a new PCB?

Update: disconnecting the cable that connects the PCB to the backbox board stops the endless shaker. Now I'm thinking it's transistor Q8 on the backbox board that's failed...

I had a problem with a shaker running constantly and it was a short solder blob on the motor itself. If you have another machine, try connecting the shaker to that one and see if it still runs.

I'd lean towards the driver to transistor going short during the game.

Yea test Q8 with a multimeter to see if it’s shorted.

You were absolutely 100% correct. Thank you so much!

Sure thing. Glad it worked out. Happy Thanksgiving!

Just joined the club with a gently used HUO Pro Vault.

Are there any recommended maintenance items that need attention as I shop it out?

IMG_4958 (resized).jpg

I noticed the rubber to the right of the vengeance gets pretty chewed up. Stern used the same metal skinny posts on Led Zep, and those eat rubbers for lunch as well.

I made printable post sleeves to fix this issue for LZ and used them again on Star Trek. They are pretty invisible once they are on, and should prevent this from happening again.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6257328

IMG_4967 (resized).jpegIMG_4968 (resized).jpegIMG_4969 (resized).jpeg

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I have a quick question I hope someone wouldn't mind answering for me. I am thinking of picking up an LE; but before I do, I wanted to see if stuff like LED boards and other wear items are available should the need arise.

ask stern.
i feel like LED (node) boards on the LE are unobtanium... thats why i said ask stern.

That was my fear. I will give them a ring tomorrow.

Hi everybody,
Sorry to step into but I need your advice. I am an owner of a Stern Star Trek Pro (and ex owner of a STTNG)
I would like to replace my DMD by a Colord DMD (LCD or LED). I have read all the threads on the differences between the LCD and the LED. My "naturel" choice would go for the LCD (as it give the possibility to get other rendering modes including extra large dots and upscaling modes that fill the space between the dots). But some friends told me that the LED fits better for the Star Trek Pro. I looked in the web but have not found any video of the LCD in an enhanced mode (upscaling modes that fill the space between the dots) for instance). Would any body of you be kind enough to post a video of its Color DMD LCD. Any feedback is more than welcome !
Thanks a lot for your replies.
Stéphane

Congrats! Nice collection. I really like your SW topper- have one just like it.

Star Trek- pretty solid reliable game. I currently have it at a vacation rental where there is a lot of pinball play. So the game gets filthy (keep up on the cleaning!) and coil stops/rubbers need replacing. The only unique part I’ve had to replace is the Vengeance plastic (cover piece just in front). This is a well known problem and is readily available for purchase (pinball life-$8.95- they also sell several other Vengeance plastics).

Just installed the LCD version ColorDMD in a Vault Edition (Pro). When you order, don't forget to pick up a foam gasket either from ColorDMD or @pinmonk.

As for question about the visuals, I tried all the various modes, but found that big dots looks the best.

@ Bigguybbr > Thanks a lot for your reply.
Could you do a quick video to give me an idea of the final result....
Thanks in advance.
Stéphane

Question:
1)Is there a reason as to why the posts are mounted upside down?
2) Why did Stern not add a buffer wire between the two posts?

They look upside down but they actually sit up and off of the playfield since the metal post is under it has the hex head and washer. Because of that, the lower half had to be a bit shorter.

Stern could have added a wire guide, but it probably isn't needed like it would be usually when done behind a bank of drop targets. These rubbers just get chewed up because the diameter of the metal post is too small, and the rubber gets pinched. The larger diameter from the sleeve stops that from happening.

pasted_image (resized).png

I'm not home for awhile to post a video or picture, but my personal opinion is LED. I have LED in my 25th Anniversary and an LCD in a Premium. LED just looks better.

LED is less expensive if that sways you. I didn't have anything to compare to when I purchased, so I went with LCD for more options. I'm sure LED looks great too.

Might just be needed for the vault editions with the metal panel to stop light bleed. It also keeps the dust off the inside of the plexi window

There are already some on here.

Check this post with a video of it in HIRES https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-clubmembers-only/page/25#post-1705828

A Picture in HIRES https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-clubmembers-only/page/127#post-4063981

Here is ColorDMD's promo that shows it in DotLX

This is 1000% personal preference, all the way. It's possible to retrofit either LED or LCD kits into Star Trek (and most pins, really).

I personally prefer the LED screens, because I've never liked the look of the LCD DMDs. It's really that simple: I just don't like the way they look. Others do, though, so pick what you think looks better. You might have to look for examples on different pins for comparison, in case there isn't footage of both for Star Trek readily available.

Looks awesome in DotsXL, thats the one major advantage of having the LCD over the LED display.

My opinion: LCD hands down, not even close.

My reasoning for that: My eyes are sensitive, so to me, the LED version looks like a tiny pinpoint of light that I find annoying. Worse, the colors are a tiny bit offset in each of the LEDs, so when multiple colors are on, it becomes multiple little points of light. I find that much more difficult to see at a glance. It ends up looking like Cadillac tail lights to me, where it leaves an "after image" in my eyes. It is possible they have improved slightly, but the last one I saw I didn't even want to look at it.

On the other hand, the LCD is very clean. They were always better, but a few years ago the screens changed to a much better quality LCD, which had better blacks. I own 5 of them right now, and I've been really happy with them.

@ Bigguybbr, Hammer3246, Delt31, Bwalter, J85M, DaveH,
Guys, Thanks a lot for your replies. I had a look at the video of the LCD...looks great but it is in blue and not full color.

Saw the HiRe Pic in color, looks amazing....but nobody has a video of the LCD colored version....That would be great.

I'll probably go for the LCD has the difference in price is not so important (so expensive in Europe) and it could easily replace DMDs on other pins....

As said above if anybody has a video of the enhanced mode in LCD Color that would be fantastic (as our Captain says....)

My ColorDMD for ST Pro is the LED version. No contest for my tastes. Bright, rich colors and in keeping with the original. Easy install, too.

Tastes differ; trust yours.

ColorDMD is colored on the computer, so the YouTube animation is the same you'll see on the LCD. Get the foam helps IMO.

Hello All

Just wanted to comment on the sound board available for Bally Star Trek that affords voice call outs. Really nice, done well. Modernizes the game just enough to really enjoy it in my opinion.
Well worth the money!

Just wrapped up a full restoration on my Bally ST. Have had STTNG in the past and really enjoyed it as well.

When I'm playing my Star Trek Pro, sometimes the pinball will hit against some of the triggers on the side of the machine and count that as a lost ball. I'm entirely sure I'm explaining it right, but if someone has any pointers I'd appreciate it.

Well, I will take a crack, but there isn't much to go on with that explanation. However, it sounds to me like you are saying you are playing a game, and all of a sudden the game registers as the ball ended. That would look like it is counting the bonus and getting ready for the next ball, with your flippers off.

I'm also guessing that you don't mean it is tilting, because that display would say tilt.

If those are correct, it sounds like a ball trough issue. Stern games like Star Trek (and a lot of Stern's) can have issues with the ball trough (the metal channel that holds the balls under the playfield). Sometimes this is as easy to fix as removing and putting back the Molex connector on the trough (the plastic block at the end of the wires that connect it to the trough switches).

After that, it would be a matter of the switches themselves, and if the assumption of it is correct, then it would be a ball getting held up by a switch in the trough and when other vibrations are happening, the ball drops down in the trough, registering to the game like the ball ended.

From my experience with WhiteStar & Stern's, its typically the through opto boards, I typically keep an extra new set in my coin bucket. When the issue happens try and open the coin door and get to diag... mode and check the through to see if it shows the issue, most of the time on the opt boards it's hard to catch the issue when they first start to go, seems like an intermittent issue at first.

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-trough-opto-board-set.html

Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll try to replicate the issue tomorrow and see if I can get a better explanation up here.

Doesn’t Star Trek pro have micro switches in the through, not optos?

My le does... Iirc
But there may be one at the inland.

I think it’s Micro, with an opto for the jam switch, but I’m not near my game right now.

I keep blowing the blue out of two of my RGB controlled lamps on my Stern Star Trek pro. (right ramp entry and warp ramp emblem).

Here comes a dumb question:
Are the controlled lamps AC or DC?

I thought they were DC. When I set my DMM to DC, all of my controlled lamps (not just the ones that are blowing) read steady ~15v (even though the lights are blinking)?!
When I set my DMM to AC, in lamp test mode when they're blinking, I measure <3v....but the voltage dips down and up with each blink.

What should I be measuring?

...I'll also mention that the lights that keep 'losing the blue' are the 520-5333-00 bulbs that sell on PinballLife for $2.95. Everyone else seems to sell these RGB lights for $12+. Is this a matter of 'get what you pay for'?