About to get a NIB Premium Vault. In May.
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I have had my Premium about a week and I have noticed that on the final shot for Sudden Death, the Vengeance fires the ball out as the drop target pops up with the result of the ball flying into the glass. This seems to happen fairly consistently and I am running 1.62 software. Is this normal?
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:I have had my Premium about a week and I have noticed that on the final shot for Sudden Death, the Vengeance fires the ball out as the drop target pops up with the result of the ball flying into the glass. This seems to happen fairly consistently and I am running 1.62 software. Is this normal?
So, is the only solution to install a protector? I was just wondering if this is the way it is...
Quoted from pcprogrammer:When I had a pro it never hit the glass.
OK, so I have played it a bunch more and it usually doesn't hit the glass, but it can fire out of the Vengeance into the drop so hard that it gets some serious air.
Quoted from pcprogrammer:Yea, hard to remember a few years back but I have no memory of it ever hitting the glass. I would remember that because certain games I've had it would hit the glass every so often. But I do remember on Star Trek Pro it would fire back the ball at you pretty hard, there is a magnet underneath doing that I think. Are you saying that when the ball is locked behind the drop target it fires it at the drop target and hits it or something?
There is a solenoid plunger in the back of the Vengeance ball lock area that fires back the ball during certain play modes. The drop target stays down in that case so that there is no interference. What I am saying is that during a certain mode, Sudden Death, the ball is sometimes forcefully fired back out along with the drop target going back up as if to lock the ball. If the timing is right, the ball will strike the upper edge of the rising drop target, launching the ball up and towards the player, hitting the glass. I tried reflashing the the latest code, but it still occasionally happens.
That's pretty cool. Mine was made in 2015. Is there any difference in machine from then to now? Any manufacturing updates?
Quoted from rai:I’m curious if they use those little Allen head screws on the back box or the leg bolts.
No allenheads on mine. The same backbox bolts as the new games.
Quoted from Nokoro:I believe that's an alternative bracket for the warp ramp so you can adjust it up and down and not left and right. I bought one and it worked pretty well to get the warp ramp return to be consistent. What worked the best was putting a strip of felt on the exit curve of the warp ramp.
That's interesting... Where does it mount? I can't visualize the part in place.
The warp ramp is a hard shot, but it is totally doable. I don't see how this would have any advantage.
Quoted from gunstarhero:Hey can anyone direct me to the latest version w/Movie Soundtrack ROM for ST Prem/LE?
It's posted in this thread a few pages ago...
Having an issue with the 1.62 code with movie sounds. The bugs that were supposedly fixed in 1.61 with the missions not being completed and next mission being able to be selected while in multi player games are still present. Has anyone else had this problem after updating to 1.62 with movie music? Also, what can be done to fix the laser button? The switch seems to be intermittent. Does any know of a good replacement laser?
The switch gap is fine. It's a software bug as it only happens on multi-player games and the ability to select a mission is not lit on the playfield even though the previous mission was completed. Works fine on single player. I am looking for a red laser.
Can someone straighten out how the shields standups work? If I hit both standups in the same ball after already going down the left outlane and having it work properly (it kicks back) after that the kickback does not light up even after hitting the standups again although it does at the start of each ball. Is it only supposed to work once per ball regardless of how many times you hit the standups?
Quoted from rai:Can someone send me a link for the Premium code with movie sound?
Also I’m having some problems with SDTM drain from behind the drop target. My pin I’d perfectly level side to side.
Thanks.
The drop target is directly over the right flipper. I don't see how it can go sdtm if the playfield is level. How are you checking to see if it's level?
The drop target pushing the ball back is normal due to the shape of the target. If the playfield is level it shouldn't sdtm.
Quoted from ectobar:How do we get a key posts section added to the club? The bulk of the tech/troubleshooting questions have been discussed ad nauseam. Would be nice if there was a quick reference to direct people to. I know I've seen it in other threads. I'd be willing to find some posts if needed.
Yes, excellent call.
I just experienced what I think is a code glitch, please let me know if that's the case or if this is normal-
I completed Prime Directive 1, then selected PD 2 but it would not finish. I got to what appeared to be the end of the mode, shot away team, and then was taken back to PD 2 as if it was never started. Finished that mode, so it would seem, only to have the same thing happen after shooting the Mission select hole and then selecting PD 2 again. As the mode timed out, all ramps and targets were off. I then shot away team again and selected Space Jump, which played normally. I attempted to complete that mode with the idea that I would then select PD 2 again, but drained on the last ball. Any ideas on this? I am running the latest stock code 1.62.
Also- Can someone explain to me how the Shields standups are supposed to work? Relighting them after having the ball get saved by the outlane plunger has no effect.
Quoted from ectobar:PD 2/3 are the same exact mode. Hit every shot once. You most likely needed the warp ramp.
Lighting the kickback a second time requires more bank completions. It's progressive. Not sure if it resets per ball or game.
Interesting on the warp ramp, but if the mode was not completed, why was the select mission hole lit? Thanks for the info on the standups.
Quoted from newpinbin:zebra is right. It is on a timer and you have to start over again until it is completed.
Ahh. That could be it. I thought that it behaved as PD1 with regards to timing out. IOW, that PD 3 would be available to select at that point.
Cliff makes outlane protectors for the Sterns, too.
Edit- I see you know that after reading the blog. I haven't had any wear on the left edge, but there was some on the upper edge. I will keep an eye on it. The Cliffy has been working pretty good so far.
The ramps can crack. Check for insert ghosting and separation. There is one guy who has posted how his has held up over many plays while on route, I am sure you have seen that.
I had an issue with that code that was supposed to have been fixed, which was that in multi-player games, the modes would not advance or complete properly. Can you test this and see if it works properly?
Quoted from hawkmoon77:Do you mean with the mod'd code, or with the official 1.62 version?
Yes, the modded 1.62 with movie music code.
Quoted from BobC:My friend said he wasn’t able to get the ship apart.
Apparently some of the screws/bolts won’t budge.
We got the light working, but I think down the road we will have to do it again.
Any advice on insanely stuck screws and bolts?
Thanks!
BobC
The manual calls for locktite on all screws on the Vengeance ship. Use a new, proper sized screwdriver and be careful.
If the coil windings have lost some integrity when the event that caused the sleeve to melt into the coil occurred, then yes.
Quoted from mbwalker:Already did! Sounds great!
Anyone know where I can get a backbox side decal (not the entire kit)? One side is coming off. For some reason, can't seem to find one on Google. Might try to reattach.
Quoted from GoodOmens:Any idea how to fix an issue where my drop target wants to send balls flying? No issues with it holding, but it seems the optos sometimes sees the ball a little early (when it's still over the target, or maybe when its falling back down?) and the target comes up and launches the ball.
I've tried shortening the spring (it's a blue spring), but it seemed to have made the problem worse.
First, don't shorten the spring as it was designed to be the length it is. I would suspect this to be an opto issue. Try reseating the connectors and ensuring that the opto units are positioned correctly and secure.
Quoted from EvanDickson:Nope. There's ones specific to Star trek, with a wire connector running right from the core of the coil. They were $29.99 each. And I'm terrified they'll become unobtainanium since they're specific to one game.
I don't see how these could be not available since Stern just did a vault run on these machines. I would try calling Stern and see what they say.
That is expected and now the distro knows you called Stern. Sometimes that's what it takes for them to actually get a part. I have had that happen more than once.
You need to call Marco on the phone, maybe call Stern first to get the part number. It should be available.
Quoted from KellerDj:Laser Assembly question, both the laser and motor stopped working on my premium, I have checked all connections and fuses that i can see, is there anything else I should look at as i find it hard to believe that both the Laser and motor went at the same time? Thanks
Does it work in test mode?
Quoted from Zitt:Again, it's the transistor
Follow this man's advice. He knows the workings of the machine very well.
On my Premium I noticed now that if I finish a mode, say DTD 1, and I have Vengeance MB ready to go and then drain the ball, I don't have the option of picking a new mode at ball launch. The only way to start a new mode is by shooting the Away Team shot or the scoop. Is this normal?
Quoted from Irishbastard:Quite a broad selection of items you sell I see... I could get an anal cleanse, enlarge and firm up my breasts, ramp up the sex drive, increase my Manhood, learn to play the lotto, regrow my hair, lose weight, get a psychic reading, grow a thicker beard, stop snoring, grow massive onions, plant some flowers, and get an almost $600 computer monitor for the top of my pin. Talk about covering all bases...
Hahaha. Had a good laugh on that one.
Regarding the ball getting stuck up at the pops-
I removed the screw and started getting balls stuck. My solution was to make the lowest pop bumper switch more sensitive. I did this not by reducing the switch gap, but by reducing the preload of the spoon switch. Now the ball will trigger the pop way more often and even a very slow ball rolling into the switch will trigger the pop. This also increased the action of the pops in general.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:I don't quite understand what you're saying? Could you be more specific?
I'm interested as my screw was broken off when I got the machine. I put a Glue Dot there for now. But it doesn't last and eventually comes unstuck.
Thanks.
[quoted image]
I will do my best to explain. The skirt switch has too much spring pressure and a very slow ball will not close the circuit, even if the switch gap is minimized. My goal was to lessen the force needed to activate the bumper so that a slow ball will have enough force to overcome the spring tension and close the circuit and activate the bumper. A large amount of spring tension resides in the spoon switch contact itself. All I had to do was reduce that tension a bit by bending it ever so slightly so that it no longer presented a strong spring resistance to the skirt. Now the skirt will move down, close the switch and activate the pop when a ball very slowly rolls into it. Ideally, the pop should activate whenever a ball even rests against the skirt, but I have found that achieving that sensitivity of adjustment and not having machine gunning is next to impossible.
I wrote about this earlier. My solution was to adjust the lowest position pop to be more sensitive by lowering the spring tension of the spoon switch by adjusting it. The ball will activate the bumper with hardly any momentum and very rarely gets stuck, even without the screw there, which I have removed.
The flashers are used during attract mode, I haven't noticed them in play. What causes them to flash in play?
Quoted from BirdForce1:It really bothers a friend of mine. He was playing on location and the bright flasher in the upper right makes him nauseous. Doesn't bother me, but I'm looking for a Pro to purchase and he's never going to come over to play it if I don't do something about that flasher lol.
Oh, those flashers...
Quoted from Flyfalcons:Okay so I started by removing, inspecting, and switch testing the trough opto. All checks good. I go to switch diagnostics and see the #4 trough ball switch shows active, even when all balls are removed. Perhaps the game registers all balls in the trough and determines one is stuck, launching again. A check of that switch finds a mounting screw had completely backed out - that must be it! So I remove the screw, check all wires, try to test it on the diagnostic page and it continues to show closed. In fact, all three switches on the red/white return line show active. The other two switches are the Red Target #6, which seems fine, and the upper opto switch under the Vengeance (ball lock). Sticking my finger in the ball lock, I can get the opto switch to show off when blocking the light beam. When I do that, the other two switches on the return line function normally. I can get to the right side, so I remove the plastic over it and notice the sensor is loose. That must be it! Tighten up the screws and.......nothing. Same problem. Getting to the left side looks pretty involved, with removal of the warp ramp and Alpha quadrant ramp. Before doing that, I grab some felt pads, jam them in the ball lock area to block the upper opto switch, start a game, and.......one ball ejects like it should. Looks like I'm in for a long afternoon of removing stuff in hopes that the problem is with the left side opto switch. Fun times.
You will probably find many loosened screws throughout the machine. They do cause issues like this and really need to be tightened occasionally.
I have seen them misaligned. You can take the lower arch cover off and bend the bracket if you need to.
The stock laser is made from a laser pointer, a cheap item, and mine started to flicker badly due to the switch malfunctioning. I went with Zitt's laser mod and it works great now.
I don't get why it would be difficult to source pretty much any part for this machine. They just finished the vault version. Stern has loads of parts.
Quoted from dtrimberger:I agree. Seems like it shouldn't be a problem so I want to see what the Pinballlife folks can do before I have them order a different gate.
Your advice on the previous posts led me to contacting the parts distributor instead of Stern.
If you do contact Stern they will most likely tell you to contact your distro. However, Marco and others can certainly get any part that Stern makes.
Quoted from Phbooms:Back with another code question. What do the T-R-E-K inserts in the outlanes do when all lit up?
Increase the spinner value.
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:Question: has anyone here ever run into the problem of the spinner consistently diverting the ball directly into the drain, on Stern ST?
Check that the standup target at the end of the rail isn't deflecting the ball.
Your speaker panel is excellent. It almost looks to be illuminated. My Premium that I bought used had your kit, minus that panel that I then got from you. The entire kit is awesome and makes the machine.
This has me thinking. The spinner switch actuating arm on the switch is a major source of friction. I am going to look for a small piece of teflon tubing to fit over the end of the actuating arm so that there is no metal to metal contact between the switch and spinner. That ought to make it rip.
One thing to understand about the connectors is that they are rated for only a few disconnects and reconnects. In other words, they wear out. The conductive layer gets thin and current doesn't flow as well.
There is another skill shot. Hold the right flipper and launch the ball with the button. The right gate will stay open and the ball will come back down to the right. Hit the upper right flipper for the warp ramp. Big payoff.
Quoted from Flyfalcons:I just verified on my game, the Warp skill shot is 500,000 and the "lift the flipper" orbit skill shot is 1,000,000. I played another game where the only warp skill shot I made was on ball 2 or 3 and that was worth 600,000. So somehow the value can be increased.
The hold the right flipper button to warp ramp shot is 1,500,000.
Quoted from Ecw0930:https://cointaker.com/products?keywords=Star+trek
Both are on sale here.
Is it worth $45?
If people were paying 100 for it, do you have to ask?
You can bend it back. Just remove the two small screws near the flap and you can lift it a small amount and fit a small support under the flap and reshape it.
Quoted from MANTO1975:Does anyone know how to do the laser test? I just installed the laser upgrade from Zitt and just want to confirm that everything works as it should.
Cheers
Diagnostic, test, coils, single coil, laser. Number 21 or 22.
I have known people who have stripped playfields and when they are reassembled, have "mystery" problems. The actual work isn't too bad, but putting everything back where it was is the big challenge.
The connectors and pins will not tolerate repeated reseating. The pins are plated and the plating wears out.
Here is the info on electronic connector durability.
https://www.electronics-notes.com/articles/electronic_components/connectors/specifications-parameters-datasheet.php
Quoted from Boat:Hello, I picked up a ST LE a bit ago. Doing a bit of dialing in. One thing I noticed is that the ball guide isn’t flush with the flippers.
I noticed I have blue ball guides, are they factory? [quoted image][quoted image]
Excuse me, are those aluminum flippers?
I have found that a full rack of torpedos fired at the Vengeance while in the V1 multiball will always bring it down.
Quoted from ectobar:Have to say, I'm a little disappointed in all you new ST owners. I feel like we're way overdue for a "Do you hear Kahn or Kai?" debate.
It is taken straight from the movie. It sounds like Kai, the subtitles say Kahn.
Make sure that the spinner shaft is free to rotate on the frame. You might indeed need to use a tiny amount of light oil on the contact points. As far as the magnet, yes it can be raised or lowered from under the playfield.. It is secured with large nuts.
Quoted from Flystoyer:Good morning Pin Treker's- I have a Preimum LE and the game is sending balls for no reason on it's own and on a drain the game will reset to the next ball while the other on the field is in a dead game mode.
Anyone have these issues with the game, thoughts of resetting software?
Opto or switch problem in the trough.
Quoted from ectobar:The 3 targets below the entrance to the Warp Ramp are what qualify Klingon MB. You should get the laser show at the start everytime, but if you double flip it will cancel the laser. Did you perhaps by a used game that has some mods? I'm pretty sure at one point someone was selling a blackout mod made the laser show more pronounced.
Cancel the laser? Could you clarify this?
Quoted from ectobar:On almost all newer games, you can double flip to cancel animations. In ST, if you do this at the at the start of Klingon MB, it will also usually cancel the laser show.
Quoted from Vyzer2:This (laser) I never knew after owing the game since nib, so thanks for that.
In any case I don’t know why anyone would want to cancel the laser as it adds a nice enhancement to Klingon mb. I’m going to try it though!
This double flip to cancel the laser doesn't cancel it, BTW.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Had to break the seal on my goodie bag to get to the manual. That’s how solid this game has been over what, 8 or 9 years?!?
Looks like Q12 drives the upper flipper. It definitely ohms out way differently than its neighbors. I have removed it from the board, but I don’t have any p40nf10l transistors on hand. I’ve only got some tip102 units.
Sounds like there’s a better component to use vs the original p40nf10l transistor. Does anyone here know what the better unit is?
Why didn't you download it from Stern?
I am 6 foot 4 and I run all the feet out to the top on all my machines so my back doesn't hunch over. With all the adjusters out the same I get the recommended angle on the playfield.
Quoted from OTRChief:Do the flashers in the boulders and above the slingshots go off during game play? I see them fire in the attract mode, but I don't see them during game play.
Attract mode only.
Quoted from Zitt:Afaik, Stern themselves are the only source for most games
Stern won't sell parts to anyone other than a distributor.
Quoted from delt31:Anyone have a set of the pop bumpers (complete) from Zitt that they want to sell? PM me if interested. Same with mirror blades. Thanks!
He has said that he has uploaded the files to somewhere that you can get them, not sure where.
I had a problem with a shaker running constantly and it was a short solder blob on the motor itself. If you have another machine, try connecting the shaker to that one and see if it still runs.
Quoted from BorgDog:Really? wow. why would they spend the money to add them only for attract? might have to rethink adding them.
I know, right? The Premium I bought didn't have them so I added them and found out they do nothing.
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