There will be a ring icon next to the team high score and mvp score. One icon per ring. To get more than one ring you have to complete everything again. I've only ever gotten one ring and it took two years of owning my game before I was able to do it.

There's one ring then.

He was allowed to play extra balls which is banned in comp, after he agreed that his first ball score of 142 would be his final score for the purposes of comp.

It was fun to watch, he was well tuned in.

Watched my TD make wizard and GC on Cirquis Voltaire before comp too.

I find that I have to be really tuned in to get anywhere with Fastbreak. If I approach it with a casual game in mind I never make it far. My first pin. Love it.

I've only had it a few months and it's not usually up the front where the games are played daily, but down the back of the warehouse in the games room where they are only really turned on for comp.

My HS is 119 and this is the first time the factory GC of 150 had been topped.

We were talking about the CV after the factory score went and i'd said that it was like NBA where i'd only ever addressed it as a game of fun, opposite of Tron when it got here and the previous owners GC score of 86m burned in me every time i saw it in attract and i worked and worked to learn the rules and beat it.

There’s a connector that goes from the backglass to the back box. Check to see if that’s connected

You need to take advantage of the midnight madness feature

On which machine and why?

Fastbreak!

I bought this machine for friends of mine that were going through a rough patch.
They soon figured out that Midnight Madness would trigger after plugging in and powering up the machine. Left it unplugged except for when they wanted to play. They used this exploit to high score damn near every team. I offered to look into why it kept resetting the clock but they are perfectly content getting the MM feature whenever they boot it up.

I remember a few days after buying NBAFB as my first pin and Midnight Madness came on. I thought my game broke for a moment and I was so mad! What a fun mode!

Now that I’m older, I changed the time in NBAFB to hit midnight at 8pm. I’m too old to stay up that late.

Same, my "midnight" is 9PM.

Seems my TD videoed the MVP moment for those interested.

I'm excited to be joining the NBA Fastbreak club soon!

Game won't need much when I get it. Hoops ramp basket is cracked and chipped, so a replacement ramp from Starship Fantasy will likely happen at some point. Rubber rings and post sleeves of course. I'm thinking of going with white rubber rings all around and orange post sleeves. Not sure about flipper rubber yet. There seems to be a lot of colour combos that would look good on this game. As well as different coloured leg protectors. My preference for LED's is the frosted dome 2SMD's cool or natural white (not bluish and not yellowish) for both the inserts and the GI on the playfield and in the backbox.

I did wonder about one thing: what are the colorizations like for this game on the PIN2DMD displays? Or the ColorDMD for that matter? PIN2DMD is a little more in my price range, but depends on how well the colorization is really. Thoughts?

Got the game on the weekend and have been playing it non-stop ever since!

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Question about the pop bumpers: My lower left one with the red cap works fine and the light in it comes on and off as a flasher when it gets hit. The lower right one has no light in it by design. The upper one has a light but no cap. The manual calls for a 906 bulb in this popper, which is a flasher bulb. My game currently looks to just have a regular wedge base incandescent in it and this bulb is always on (like any GI bulb would normally stay on all the time).

Is that right? This always on bulb in the upper popper? Should it only come on when the popper is hit? Or always on like most other popper bulbs?

Mine has always had the standard wedge bulb and is always on with the GI. My manual doesn't specify a bulb for this location and is not listed as a flasher on page 2-40 of my manual. FWIW.

I'm probably trying to give the original manual too much credit for being correct.

I also have two slightly different versions of the manual, both downloaded as PDF's from ipdb.org.

On page 2-22 for the jet bumper assemblies, it lists the three pop bumpers, with the top one having the details spelled out and then the next two only noting what is different. The top list is pretty clearly the lower left one with the red cap and dome. #7 on that parts list is a 555 bulb yet on page 2-40 for the solenoids/flashers, it shows #18 for that bulb as a 906.

The second pop bumper just shows the four things not used, which includes the cap and the bulb socket and bulb.

The third shows the cap missing but includes the bulb socket and then also lists a 906 bulb. Yet none is shown on that 2-40 page in either version of the manual I have.

I had honestly been looking closer at those jet bumper assembly parts lists because I am going to replace the chipped skirts (wafers) and wanted to see what colours they came with originally. And that changed from manual to manual too it seems. In one version it is white for the lower left and the lower right, while the upper one got purple. And then in the second version of the manual it lists all three skirts as being red. Go figure! lol

I am going to put a red skirt in the lower left one and purple in the other two as that seems to look good from the pics I've seen. I don't see mention anywhere of the red skirt needing to be trimmed, but it sure looks like it has to be. Fun fun. Maybe the technical writing department back in the day didn't get the budget they needed.

I love it! The upper right bulb should be a GI bulb wedge. I also just replaced all of my wafers. All three were chipped. My game has a red (modified) skirt for lower left and white for the other two. Though purple could be cool for the upper right. I guess it depends if you want it to blend in or stand out.

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Those are great pictures. I hadn't realized how good the access to the pop bumpers was with only that right ramp removed. I'm still acquiring a few more parts before tearing it down to do rubber rings and whatnot.

I saw pics of someone with an orange skirt there too and that also looked good.

Another question, maybe another one reading too much into specifics... in the NBAFB manual, they call out the fuses as being "time delay". Is this just another name for the slow blow ones used in most other pinball machines? They got different part numbers so wasn't sure and figured I would ask.

Right ramp and center ramp are easy to remove. Go ahead and take them both off when you do the work. You can get a good cleaning while you are at it. Slow blow and time delay are the same thing. The hardest (time consuming, not really hard) is dealing with the bulb sockets. You will have to loosen the staples under the playfield. I just cut my old sockets out after loosening the staples. No way the originals were going back in cleanly. Easier to just replace and bend the new metal "wires" to mimic the original and slide them under the staples.

Yeah, it does have to be trimmed -- I had to go through the same exercise of replacing the skirts for all three. You can find a few shops selling the trimmed ones, but I found it was pretty easy just to shave off the portion of the skirt that was in the way. Just make sure you get the orientation of the skirt correct (line up the holes) before trimming.

I didn't like the look of the GI bulb sticking through the plastic on the pop, so I replaced it with one of the LED discs that can be placed inside the pop (since I had already taken the whole thing apart anyway at that point).

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Try these
https://www.pinballlife.com/pop-bumper-lamp-socket-with-centering-bracket.html

Anyone make insert decals? I have one that is worn from the right flipper rubbing on it before i owned it.

Also, i opened up the machine for the first time in a really long time, the far left shooter wasn't going though the wire ball guide, replaced the sleeve and it appears good again.
The real good new is that i found all my missing tools that left in there last time i had it open.

I love it when that happens. Found my favorite spring loaded needle nose the other day.

Nice! This is a great idea! I have a couple of those leftover from something else and will for sure try one out in that top popper. Thanks for the idea!!

I probably shouldn't admit it but that happens to me all the time.

Hey so I tried something new yesterday..
How low of a score can you get and earn a championship ring?
I got 49 lol

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Nice! I like it! Pretty much all of the modes you just have to start and not earn a certain number of points. Might have to give that a go, lol.

It removed a score of 290 and put this instead lol

Be fun to try. The six areas you have to complete include the 20 points one, so that's a bare minimum in points. Wrong trivia answer still gives you one point. Getting the pop bumper counts up to start those modes might be the challenge to keep the total score low.

I’m in on this challenge.

Thanks for bringing this up! Fun idea.

You can get really dorky about it and tilt when the trivia comes up to eliminate that point lol
My 49 was my first attempt. I’m going to mess around with it more in the near future

I'm in too. Sounds fun.

I'm tearing my game down for the first time to do a cleaning and whatnot.

Noticed my game has a double rubber ring on this spot above the pop bumpers. The manual only shows one and the photos online here have a mix of games with only one and some with two. Which is it supposed to be? Any reason why some games went with a double ring here?

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My game came with one ring. There were a few NBAFB's on location near that had two so when I replaced rings I did two. Two years later when I LED'd it I realized that two rings blocks most of the light unless you go clear or remove one. I don't really think it affects gameplay either way. The next time I remove anything from that section I am going back to one ring for more light.

Mine has a double ring in that location.
I use buckets of clear rubber from pinball life. It's a great deal financially also lets much more light through.
I can't even remember the last time i did a shop job without clear rubber.
Just make sure to buy a few more slingshot rubber rings, the bucket does a few games, but the slingshots always run out.

Thanks for the tips. I have white rubber rings to put in along with orange post sleeves and black flipper rubber. I'll likely go with just a single ring there to keep the light from getting blocked. Purple skirts for the two right side pop bumpers and red for the one with the red cap. New transparent orange star posts, regular and narrow as well as new lane guides. Orange leg protectors and new orange flipper buttons (as well as new steel spring levers on the inside for the opto interrupter boards for those flippers).

I did all cool white frosted dome 2SMD LED's in the inserts and GI except the 22 bulbs in the backbox where I did a warm white frosted dome as they aren't completely hidden under plastics and the full strength cool whites are a little too bright like that in my opinion.

I have another box of parts I'm waiting on to get going on reinstall. Anti-mag shim for the trough, wingbolts for the backbox and a new piece of plastic trim for the top of the playfield glass where it meets the end of the cabinet (mine had a crack in the corner). Flipper rebuild kit and new Williams logo orange flipper bats (not the one in the backbox, I can live with that being left as-is, lol). Also have some replacement PCB stand-offs for the backbox plastics as a couple of them are missing or not staying snug anymore.

Only plastic that's actually cracked or broken is the skinny one along the shooter lane and right outlane. It had mylar/masking tape holding it together. It doesn't seem readily available to buy just on it's own, so might try and MacGyver a brace for it either out of old plastics or a Cliffy I had for a different game and never used.

My hoops ramp has a pretty cracked up basket and I'd like to get the two ramp combo from Starship Fantasy which includes the centre ramp (also a little cracked on my game). Prices in USD with the exchange rate and shipping is pretty pricey nowadays, so am going to get things back together and then decide how badly I want new ramps.

Boards are all in good shape and NVRAM has been installed. The clock keeps time randomly because of that so midnight madness comes on as a surprise instead of actually at midnight. Playfield is in very nice shape both on top and underneath. Quite a clean game and the cabinet is in very good shape. Regular DMD still and I think the serial number on it says it came out of someone else's Indiana Jones Pinball Adventure. Go figure. The image is good with no outgassing. I may get a PIN2DMD for the game down the road.

Love the game though. Definitely has that one more game feel for me. I think I've played close to 200 games since I got it about three weeks ago. Highest score has been 375 with one ring and 334 with two rings. I've given all the other high scores the boot except the Bulls with three rings and Celtics with two. I'm coming for ya! lol

I finally had an opportunity to play tonight. It is so weird trying not to score points. But I did it!
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Has anybody had difficulty removing the translite? I removed the locking mech and it's still not moving.

I have not.

Is it not moving up to give you clearance to pull out the bottom?

Thinking about cutting the score down from 49:

I mistakenly made a free throw (by habit).

Another way is to shoot one of the combo shots, have the ball ricochet off the backboard, and it falls into a saucer that hasn’t been counted for Around the World Multi-ball. It saves you 2 points.

Other than that, you just hope not to get the ball rattling in the pops for extra buckets during any power hoop or multi-ball mode. I think a sub 45 is really tough.

I had 39 points going into the wizard mode.

That is correct. No difference from when it's locked.

I do remember this backbox not having much wiggle room in order to get the back glass out. Mainly due to the interactive backbox. I felt you had to perfectly push up and pull out. Even then you would almost scrap the black speaker panel.

I’m not sure what could be causing it to not move. Have you ever tried taking it out since purchasing it? Maybe something is lodged in there?

I took the picture below to show you how much room I can lift mine. It isn’t much.

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Looking forward to see how low it can go!

Mine is tough. The upper flipper mech touches something on the way up. If I try to do it with game on it resets. I have to lift and try to pull out a little for the clearance. But if yours isn’t moving at all maybe the lock isn’t clearing out.

I want to try this low score ring winning challenge, but have my game apart to do some rubber rings and clean-up. Just waiting on a few parts to keep going on the pop bumper skirts and then flipper bats and mechanism rebuilds. Got it pretty clean once everything was removed. Can't wait to get back in the game!!

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Looking good! Best of luck on the lowest score!

What is it, No Fear that says that second place is the first loser? Whoohoo, what's the best loser score called then?? lol Game on!!

Don’t know but I’d spring for a certificate award of some sort that would get shipped from “weiner” to the next “weiner” if they get the lower or lowest score you could achieve!
Come on fellas/ladies let’s make this something!

Can someone remind me again on how to get 4 ball multiball?

Been away for a few days. Thanks so much for the picture and appreciate you taking the time on this. This was the first time removing since owning it. Wanted to change out the batteries. After some careful manipulation of the glass, was able to remove and change the batteries out.