I believe some people have put a spot bumper on the ball guide on the right, located below the pop. That's my re-collection anyway...
I believe some people have put a spot bumper on the ball guide on the right, located below the pop. That's my re-collection anyway...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nba-fastbreak-fanatics-club/page/11#post-5698732
49B0DC46-0AF5-4859-B095-8B0C1360567C (resized).jpegQuoted from DK:What’s your fix for the cheap SDTM drains given from the pops?
[quoted image]
I’m at a solid 20% drain rate
Game is balanced perfect at 7 degree pitch
There are posts a few pages back explaining suggestions for putting a little rubber nub above the exit…seems to work great.
Did all fastbreaks come with Bally speaker panels?
Mine has a williams and to make things worse the notches that hold it on to the lower bushings of the head are broken on one side (the plastic that holds is on is physically part the panel, right?).
So i have to get a new one regardless.
Few more things to resolve before my pin is 100%.
Maybe you guys know the answers to.
F6 upper flipper but. Error?
Manaul says f6 is unsused in switches.
Game seems to play right.
Also think I have a bad diode somewhere, possibly related? When you hit either of the lower 2 pop bumpers or sometimes the left loop it triggers the upper flipper. I changed the diodes on the upper flipper and I don't see any on the other coils. Are they on the boards?
Thanks,
Joe
Quoted from jcar302:Few more things to resolve before my pin is 100%.
Maybe you guys know the answers to.
F6 upper flipper but. Error?
Manaul says f6 is unsused in switches.
Game seems to play right.
Also think I have a bad diode somewhere, possibly related? When you hit either of the lower 2 pop bumpers or sometimes the left loop it triggers the upper flipper. I changed the diodes on the upper flipper and I don't see any on the other coils. Are they on the boards?
Thanks,
Joe
Upper flipper?
Quoted from SimplePin:Upper flipper?
My guess is upper flipper button, for the flipper in the back box. But it works fine in gameplay.
After i got home yesterday, i rechecked the error.
It's officially "F6 U.R. flipper But."
If i press the button on the lock bar in switch test mode, it's fine and named Ball Launch.
So after some searches, turns out that error is related to the upper right opto on the right hand side flipper button.
Credit goes to LTG he gave someone else that answer a few months ago on a different wpc.
I cleaned it all up, but i don't think that it was dirt. Code did clear, but the metal plate that acts like a spring is missing so there is no tension holding the plastic between the optos.
Which makes the button too far away also.
Have to get another metal spring plate and i think it will be good.
My NBA fastbreak won't start up. When I turn it on, some lights from the playfield are on, speaker lights are on and the DMD is blank. Both flippers automatically flip every five seconds.
Any suggestions or direction on the problem and how to fix? Thanks in advance. I know very little about repairing games, but trying to learn.
Thanks.
Quoted from SaltyRunBack:My NBA fastbreak won't start up. When I turn it on, some lights from the playfield are on, speaker lights are on and the DMD is blank. Both flippers automatically flip every five seconds.
Any suggestions or direction on the problem and how to fix? Thanks in advance. I know very little about repairing games, but trying to learn.
Thanks.
Not sure about the flippers flipping, but i had a similar issue when i bought my attack from mars.
The issue was one of the larger diodes on the power driver board.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/WPC-PDA20028
I believe that is the kit i used.
You might be able to test them in circuit without removing the board.
But that doesn't always seem to work with diodes.
While i'm not totally sure that is your issue.
It was 100% the problem with my AFM. It was purchased with some lighting working but no booting.
One of those diodes tested bad. I replaced them all.
Asking for a friend.
Need colour files for a pin2dmd screen.
I reached out to “president” on vpin site but no response.
Any ideas?
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Asking for a friend.
Need colour files for a pin2dmd screen.
I reached out to “president” on vpin site but no response.
Any ideas?
Just a thought but could they potentially be extracted from the ColorDMD files? Someone with Unix or Software Engineering skills should be able to in theory.
I sold my NBA Fastbreak.
I still have a bunch of new or NOS parts for it.
Looking to sell them
New orange ball
NOS centre ramp with metal bracket and decal installed
NOS plastic set
04-10725 Diverter blade sold out everywhere. SOLD
Two 01-14625 Loop diverter blades.
Two 02-5289 plunger magnet coils
04-10724 hook diverter plunger
04-10723 diverter plunger
04-10726 bracket
Just picked up a nice NBA Fastbreak from a shuttered bar in PA. It’s been sitting for years, but fired right up. A quick question that I can’t seem to find an answer to:
My back box clear cover is plexiglass. The trim is damaged, and the lower lift channel missing, so I ordered new, but before I replace I wanted to know if the plexiglass was factory on this title, or if mine is an operator fix to a broken factory glass (actual glass).
Thanks!
2417287E-8AAB-4082-8EC5-D347E7E711CF (resized).jpegQuoted from PSUTownie:Just picked up a nice NBA Fastbreak from a shuttered bar in PA. It’s been sitting for years, but fired right up. A quick question that I can’t seem to find an answer to:
My back box clear cover is plexiglass. The trim is damaged, and the lower lift channel missing, so I ordered new, but before I replace I wanted to know if the plexiglass was factory on this title, or if mine is an operator fix to a broken factory glass (actual glass).
Thanks!
[quoted image]
Should be glass. Enjoy the game!
I know bars don't look their best in daylight, but that's a fuckin dingy bar for a first world country.
Quoted from punkin:I know bars don't look their best in daylight, but that's a fuckin dingy bar for a first world country.
LOL. That's a pretty common bar scene in many parts of the US. Can't trust Hollywood and travel brochures to paint a true picture of this country
Quoted from SimplePin:Should be glass. Enjoy the game!
Thanks - I figured it would have been, but wanted to confirm!
Quoted from punkin:I know bars don't look their best in daylight, but that's a fuckin dingy bar for a first world country.
Haha, pretty standard for a small-town PA dive bar/road house. This one first opened in the early 1900’s, and shut down due to the pandemic. It looks extra dingy now, as it has been closed for a couple years, and when they shut the doors for the final time, the owner said no one ever went back. He and I were the first ones in there since… glad to get the pin and video cab out of there, there was lots of rodent sign, and the roof had been leaking in a couple areas. Cool place with a lot of history, it’s a shame to see them close.
F1A22878-859F-4A04-8B39-CA533BD52361 (resized).jpegNice machine though for sure.
Can't wait to get mine, the guy restoring it keeps sending me vids of the progress.
Just a quick hello, I will be making more Pin2DMD if there is enough demand.
The list of colorized games (not all games are colorized is here)
https://vpuniverse.com/forums/topic/5391-complete-pin2dmd-colour-file-list-for-virtual-real-pins/
this game is in development but I made one screen for another client and he says it works really well! Good news is as the code evolves you will get the final version for free even when you purchase the colour file now. When you buy my screen you can get the colour file from the author directly or I can purchase it for you and preload.
If you game is not on the list, it is most likely not colorized. This means nobody has made colour files for Pin2DMD.
For pricing contact me by private message as I am not sure whether this is allowed on here.
I have made several dozens of these screens in the past, a lot of these go to myself, games I partially restored or to other collector who have bought off me.
Here are a couple of vids of my own games, I do have other games but I do not keep a lot of DMD games around often
Simpsons:
Indiana Jones:
And I just finished installing one in LW3 but since I am fixing other parts of the game I do not have a video of it yet, but I did test it and the screen works really well. Best part is that some colour files are free.
Anyway, enough infomercial now. Thanks
Hi Fastbreak maniacs!
I have just recently joined the club and really enjoying it. It has been playable since day one but a number of smaller issues which I am fixing slowly resolving as I learn more (my first home pin). After leveling the pin exactly as it was intended to be I have a huge difficulty to hit the center ramp. If I hold the ball on left or right flipper it's close to impossible, it gets to the top of the ramp and back to the central drain at its best. I can only hit the central ramp and basket accidentally when ball goes down with enough power. Is that intended? Or perhaps I should rebuild my flippers so they get more power?
Thanks in advance!
Quoted from GoodShine:Hi Fastbreak maniacs!
I have just recently joined the club and really enjoying it. It has been playable since day one but a number of smaller issues which I am fixing slowly resolving as I learn more (my first home pin). After leveling the pin exactly as it was intended to be I have a huge difficulty to hit the center ramp. If I hold the ball on left or right flipper it's close to impossible, it gets to the top of the ramp and back to the central drain at its best. I can only hit the central ramp and basket accidentally when ball goes down with enough power. Is that intended? Or perhaps I should rebuild my flippers so they get more power?
Thanks in advance!
Make sure playfield is waxed and rebuild flippers, check eos switches and you should be good to go
Quoted from BradLinden:Need a couple owners to do me a tiny favor!
When you turn your game on, does the GI in the slingshots and inlanes immediately turn on (before the game boots or any other GI turns on)? Mine is doing this and I wanted to see if this is normal or a sign of an electrical issue somewhere. Thanks!
Mine seems to be booting the same.
Quoted from BradLinden:When you turn your game on, does the GI in the slingshots and inlanes immediately turn on (before the game boots or any other GI turns on)? Mine is doing this and I wanted to see if this is normal or a sign of an electrical issue somewhere.
WPC has 5 controlled (dimmable) GI strings.
In WPC-95 the always on strings are the GRN/WHT-GRN and VIO/WHT-VIO strings. They usually go to the backbox with the other 3 strings going to the playfield.
In the past it was not uncommon for operators (or home hobbyists) to modify the GI connections due to burned connectors to get things working. Things to check:
If you are unsure then post images of the area in question.
Quoted from SimplePin:Mine seems to be booting the same.
Quoted from DumbAss:WPC has 5 controlled (dimmable) GI strings.
In WPC-89 all 5 of them are under software control.
In WPC-95 (this game is WPC-95) only 3 of them are under software control. The other 2 are always on.In WPC-95 the always on strings are the GRN/WHT-GRN and VIO/WHT-VIO strings. They usually go to the backbox with the other 3 strings going to the playfield.
In the past it was not uncommon for operators (or home hobbyists) to modify the GI connections due to burned connectors to get things working. Things to check:Check your transformer secondary connection at J103.
Check your GI outputs from the power board at J105/J106.
Verify the wire colors to the GI that you expect to be software controlled but is not. If they are GRN or VIO strings they will come on when the machine is powered on.If you are unsure then post images of the area in question.
Perfect! That answers my question. Thanks to both of you for taking the time.
Quoted from DumbAss:WPC has 5 controlled (dimmable) GI strings.
In WPC-89 all 5 of them are under software control.
In WPC-95 (this game is WPC-95) only 3 of them are under software control. The other 2 are always on.In WPC-95 the always on strings are the GRN/WHT-GRN and VIO/WHT-VIO strings. They usually go to the backbox with the other 3 strings going to the playfield.
In the past it was not uncommon for operators (or home hobbyists) to modify the GI connections due to burned connectors to get things working. Things to check:Check your transformer secondary connection at J103.
Check your GI outputs from the power board at J105/J106.
Verify the wire colors to the GI that you expect to be software controlled but is not. If they are GRN or VIO strings they will come on when the machine is powered on.If you are unsure then post images of the area in question.
Does this mean mine is not working as intended?
Quoted from SimplePin:Does this mean mine is not working as intended?
I don't know this game nor do I have this game. You will need to post images of the lamp sockets around the area concerned if you are unsure about how to determine which GI string supplies the area.
Remember the GRN/WHT-GRN and VIO/WHT-VIO strings are "always on". The GI test (T.6) should reveal this as well.
Quoted from SimplePin:Does this mean mine is not working as intended?
No, I think ours are both working correctly.
Quoted from BradLinden:No, I think ours are both working correctly.
My buddy has one on route at the local brewery. I'll power cycle it this afternoon when I'm there to confirm the same behavior. But I agree. I think we are good.
Quoted from BradLinden:No, I think ours are both working correctly.
Quoted from SimplePin:My buddy has one on route at the local brewery. I'll power cycle it this afternoon when I'm there to confirm the same behavior. But I agree. I think we are good.
Quoted from AirWolfNH:I just turned mine on. Lights in slings come on immediately. I say this is normal behavior.
I guess I operate with a different level of proof and avoid thinking something is correct. I would rather know something is correct. Much akin to "preponderance of evidence" versus "beyond reasonable doubt".
It's a horribly low resolution image but it does show that it is the GRN/WHT-GRN string that supplies that area of the playfield. That's proof not conjecture or "proof by consensus".
Someone refresh my memory.
I installed 4 balls correct?
If so, is there any scenario where you get more than 2 ball multiball?
Quoted from jcar302:Someone refresh my memory.
I installed 4 balls correct?
If so, is there any scenario where you get more than 2 ball multiball?
Definitely in the final Trophy Multiball; and I think the "Around the World" multiball is 3 ball.
:wall:Just want to chime in, as it's been a while (even if it wasn't this thread specifically)...I finally! got my two NBA Fastbreaks linked, and WE ARE LOVIN' IT! One machine was shipped to me, as the other one was a huo, local pickup..they are similar in condition, but I have to say that the local one is pretty minty. Finally fixed a few issues (notably the opto 24" board on the shipped one), finally sourced the essential chip that was apparently the wrong one, but the part number is right..anyways, it's a rush to play head2head. NOW JUST LOOKING FOR THE TOPPER DECAL(S) to complete it. (with my own cardboard).
IMG_9558.HEIC (resized).jpegIMG_9569 (resized).jpegFor those of you who had pinged me in the past about the backboard mod I'd been out of stock on for quite a while, I finally got some time and made a few more here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1226-game-room-info-shop/04277-nba-fastbreak-backboard-mod
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from punkin:Great stuff. Mines getting closer, decals went on this week. The great guy who's restoring it keeps sending me teaser pics.
Hope to have it when the fat guy rolls in.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Those look like the PinballDecalseu.com ones. I used those as well.
I need to replace the switch on my “H” ramp. I know the part number for the switch (5647-12693-21) but cannot find in the manual what diode to use. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Quoted from AirWolfNH:I need to replace the switch on my “H” ramp. I know the part number for the switch (5647-12693-21) but cannot find in the manual what diode to use. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Looks like the same diode that’s used almost everywhere on WPCs, This should be the one https://www.pinballlife.com/diode-1n4004.html
Quoted from chriz99:got my second NBA fastbreak today, ready for some cool link games [quoted image]
My buddy has two NBAFB's in storage at his place. Doesn't currently have room for them. I have one NBAFB and all the space in the world. If I can only convince him to "store" one of his other machines at my place! I've never experienced the linked mode. Would love to check it out at some point. Maybe down the road I'll pick up a second.
Quoted from chriz99:got my second NBA fastbreak today, ready for some cool link games [quoted image]
If you need any help linking these, let me know..I spent many gruling hours getting mine linked..turned out that one of the 'typical' chips used (from Jameco) was the wrong one. LET'S GET READY FOR SOME PRIME-TIME BASKETBALL! you are going to love it
Quoted from KING-HENRY:If you need any help linking these, let me know..I spent many gruling hours getting mine linked..turned out that one of the 'typical' chips used (from Jameco) was the wrong one. LET'S GET READY FOR SOME PRIME-TIME BASKETBALL! you are going to love it
Thanks for your help @KING-HENRY. At the moment I am rearranging the gameroom, so I can not test the link functionality. This is my link set, is it the correct one?
2x 2 chips and a link cable
thanks
Chris
Quoted from chriz99:Thanks for your help KING-HENRY. At the moment I am rearranging the gameroom, so I can not test the link functionality. This is my link set, is it the correct one?
2x 2 chips and a link cable
thanks
Chris
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Hey Chris, yeah I’ll check that in the morning..and you’ll want to make sure that both machines are running the latest rev 3.1 and that the sound revs are both at 3.0. It’s late so i might be off on the details. I’ll get back to ya
Quoted from chriz99:Thanks for your help KING-HENRY. At the moment I am rearranging the gameroom, so I can not test the link functionality. This is my link set, is it the correct one?
2x 2 chips and a link cable
thanks
Chris
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from chriz99:Thanks for your help KING-HENRY. At the moment I am rearranging the gameroom, so I can not test the link functionality. This is my link set, is it the correct one?
2x 2 chips and a link cable
thanks
Chris
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I don’t think that TI chip will work for this, as that was the chip that was preventing the link. Been there, bought more than 1 set of those. It’s that Goldstar chip I eventually found on eBay (the bigger one). It was a tech at next level arcade that illuminated that fact, when helping me on a new CC on the phone. Even tried both modem wiring (null modem and straight, but that wasn’t the problem) Bought that chip and whalaaa.
I guess you could try those and see? Hope this helps -Terry
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nba-fastbreak-fanatics-club/page/20 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.