To start off, I want to preface that my friend had already bought the replacement board from "Big Daddy" that uses an authentic flash, not LEDs (Pictured Below)
https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/BigDaddySignatureItems.html
Big Daddy Flash (resized).png
When I went to install the new board, I found that the required 115V AC was not getting to it.
I traced it back to the "Isolation Transformer" in the base of the cabinet and found that the transformer itself was bad. (No continuity on the input side)
After doing a ton of research, including emailing with "Big Daddy" themselves, I found the correct modern replacement transformer to use on "DigiKey". (Link and photo below)
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/triad-magnetics/N-68X/1887210
N-68X (resized).jpg
To complete the installation, you will need the following connectors, fuse holder, and crimping tool, all can be found on "Amazon.com" (links below) In hindsight I probably could have found all of these cheaper on "DigiKey" as well and ordered them with the transformer, but I wasn't sure where I was getting the transformer when I ordered the other parts and Amazon could get me these the next day.
2 Pin Molex Connector
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085MSKD11
In Line Fuse Holder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083BGR14X
9 Pin Molex Connector
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B6FF8CW
Molex Pin Crimping Tool
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VWLW11G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00
The Transformer Primary (input) can be wired in Parallel (115V AC) or in Series (230V AC), because I am in the US, I wired it in Parallel. This meant I had to tie the Red/Black wire to the Black wire and the Yellow/Black wire to the Green/Black wire. I then attached these pairs to some wire I had already that was of the same thickness, using Black and Yellow for consistency.
Now that the transformer is ready, you will need to wire it to the connectors, pay close attention to the orientation of the pinout of the factory plug to make sure your connection is correct, having the dead transformer to reference was helpful with this. (The factory transformer has a bunch of input wires to accommodate for different region requirements, however only two are actually connected to the mains power coming from the switch through the in-line fuse holder. The 9-pin connector is keyed, so it is pretty easy to figure out where to put the pins. I used the original fuse in the new fuse holder because it was still good. (Photos of the factory connector coming from the switch below)
IMG_6253 (resized).jpg
IMG_6254 (resized).jpg
On the Output side of the Transformer there are three wires, the two red wires are your 115V AC lines that you will wire to the 2-pin Molex connector, orientation does not matter. the third white wire is a "Shield Ground", I connected this to a ring terminal and used the factory screw from the original transformer mounting location to attach it to the metal base in the cabinet.
To mount the transformer i used one of the original screws and a self-tapping screw as the replacement transformer is a little shorter than the original. (pictures below)
IMG_6256 (resized).jpg
IMG_6257 (resized).jpg
Assuming you have wired everything correctly you should now be getting 115-130v AC to your strobe board.
I am by no means an expert, but I just wanted to share what I learned because it was hard for me to find info when researching how to fix this. Hope this helps someone else with their game, and feel free to comment on any changes you think I should make or a better way to do this.
The total cost of the transformer, connectors, and shipping was right around $38. You might even have a lot of the parts you already need.
Cheers, Keep Flipping.