All Bally games of that era used the gas plasma orange displays. Some have filters in front of them so they can appear red (centaur 2) but they are still orange digits.

So the power87 one is CPR's new digital process print - do you like the way that one looks as that's likely what you're going to receive from CPR, not the one pictured on the website - I don't think it looks bad either, just different.

There's a lot of variants in the way things were printed and came out even among original playfields - differing shades, etc. For instance I remember Eight Ball Deluxe's playfield's so-called white being a cream color, which is why I bought the IPB one way back when. Everyone else seems to put this as stark white, which looks off to me - but still looks good and I'd be happy with it anyway.

I was considering getting the FG playfield as well even though I don't have the game yet. Been looking on and off casually for a while.... likely the last 80s game I'm looking for.

Do you have the 5200 or the 5220 chip on the S&T? Speech is formatted for the 5200.

See this video:

options 16-17 control the extra ball control, not the dips see page 4a in the manual

One long connector.

Try great plains electronics if they still have them.... .100 style.

Someone tightened them too much and the shaft splayed out trapping it in the pawl. It could also be that the bat didn't have the indent.

Also, you should replace the nails on the sling, not only blocks ball traps, they also hold the plastic up and prevent a really fast ball from pushing the rubber in too far, resulting in a weak sling.

No, but if you get playfield multiplier and collect it it's 25x

yes you can use 1n4007 there
it's probably dirty though

Clean it but look at the plating - if it's not gold the contacts need to be replaced (or the whole switch). When the gold plating is gone the switch will not be reliable at all and FG will get very confused as to status of the drop

Hold flipper buttons in flipper in solenoid test only pulses the relay

Yep there's no cpu control of the flippers only manual

All inlines down and the orange extra ball should light to tell you it's ready to collect. Hit the back stand-up and the inline orange extra ball should go off and same player shoot again lights on the playfield between the flippers and on the back glass.

Tap passing is really easy on the linear flipper mech.

Yes, someone added multiball to flash gordon a while ago although I don't remember what came out of it. They did it all with hardware.

Where else besides the center hole could you add multiball? Behind the inlines would require memory inlines to get the ball out.

4 bank

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Does the drop physically drop itself as well? That happens on mine occasionally from vibration. It's a PITA to adjust, too, had to fool around with changing the sping and stretching it.

Forstner bit.

2 vac difference isn't a lot for an imprecise thing like a transformer. What else have you done?

manual page 7. Dip 21.

That era game shouldn't have brass sleeves yours came with them??

Ebay has free shipping on it, BD website is $22. So a wash.... but I needed it so thanks for posting. Did not know someone else was making these after the other makers stopped.

Here's my old strobe.... no surprise it wasn't working consistently. Big Daddy delivered last week and I put it in a couple days ago, flash gordon flashes again.

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Strobe fires when you go into the center saucer as a special effect.

It's in your manual.
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=874
The 3 'empty' switches and the 1 empty in columns 1 and 0 are the coin switches and credit button.

First thing to do is run a solenoid test and see if the outhole kicker fires.

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It's not a physical wiring diagram, it's a logical diagram. It's a switch matrix as well, so there's a pulse that goes down a column, and the return lines determine the row(s) of closed switches.

Do the solenoid test first to see if the outhole kicker fires. No single ball bally game checks the outhole switch before firing the ball at game start so it is not a factor here.

Do you have switch capacitors on the top pop and lower left pop? Cut one end off if so and retest switches. (If they are vintage they need to be replaced, cutting on end won't affect testing)

draw a box on your 2 non-working switches across the matrix and look at likely switches in the 'corners' of the box.

The outhole switch most definitely does NOT need a capacitor, capacitors are added to the switches that are subject to quick hits like a standup, sling, or pop.

Those 2 pops I called out ARE on the same row, btw. They aren't on the same COLUMN, whereas both of your non-working switches are.

For that matter, make sure your 50 point standup isn't mashed closed.

Dragonfist

There should only be one test switch on this era bally coin door.

Post a picture of what you have.

yes

Both Alltek and Weebly boards have free play roms installed for Bally games.
The original boards you can get freeplay capable roms burned (you do have to find them or the patch for them, some are at:
http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html).

The styles of freeplay I have seen are:

always max credits
display shows at least 01 credit all the time
credits can show 00 but the apron lamp lights indicating credits/credits can show 00 and just starts a game without the apron light
credits at 00 will electronically 'flick' the coin door switch so you can hear the sound byte for adding a credit

There are likely others I'm forgetting about. I know the classic stern games when I added them I was playing with different types of freeplay - I find that most people at shows that are sort of 'in the know' about credit displays would look at the credit window and see zero and not even try to start a game, so when I took games to the local show I would set the credit display to not show, or put a note near the credits display "game is freeplay just press start".

I think the another reason as BigAl56 says re: management is that they didn't want to have operators calling up and saying "the game is in freeplay somehow, I'm losing money!"

The freeplay market was so tiny back then I'm kind of surprised that Williams included it in their games. There is a specific test in the OS rom code for "max credits=00" enabling the freeplay (it wasn't a side effect of that setting, for instance).

Bell post but afaik no one sells them.

Dip 21

It's trendy right now to add connectors to everything to make servicing "easier" in the future. I would only do it to things that are a PITA to take in/out (lots of switches/coils to undo when removing the bracket....)

I did it for my single drop on my FG because it was falling from vibration and the connectors made it easy to take in/out.

Adding the connector is an old, old argument as to if it decreases reliability or not. I think it adds another point of failure to worry about, but I can see it making sense in some situations. Wholesale replacement of all of them.... nah.

For the mismatched action on the flippers, are we sure that the wires in the connector are in the correct places? That seems more common to mess up when repinning vs. anything with the relay. Could be the cab switches or the ones to the coils themselves.

Still tweaking it although it didn't do it the other day.

Where on the shelf of the drop?

These are usually cooked, get the Big Daddy unit. works great.

You could probably replace every component and get it to work. Anything with high voltage circuits you should replace every component at the same time as one part out of spec could take out the new parts you add in.

Entire replacement unit.

The insert might be installed upside down, they have a very slight angle on one side.

Don't use Yoppsicles for GI, use comet warm/cool white (whichever yopp you have) with a socket. The GI will be pretty dim otherwise.

The other thing that was a pleasant side effect of yoppsicles everywhere - there's just more room to work on the mechs, since the bottom of the PF becomes flat where lamps are concerned.

Not having to worry about sockets was what did it for me. I've tried all the tricks with sockets including replacement, not having to worry about a socket is just great. They look really good as well, and have fooled me sometimes since it almost looks like a domed bulb in some cases from the top.

They have built in resistors which is usually enough to allow them to work properly on Bally machines. You can always add more resistance if needed to properly latch the lamp driver board SCR. They won't work in 6803 games, just the -17/-35 games.

Believe me, I was firmly in the better-dead-than-LED club a couple years ago. But, I also said if they get good enough that I can't tell if it's an LED or at least if it's close, I'd switch. The less heat sold me too, now at parties instead of the gameroom climbing to 90+ degrees, it stays ambient temp. My EBD you could put your hand on it with regular bulbs after it being on a couple of hours and it was REALLY warm on the glass (PF and BG) - with LED's, nope, stays cool. Just have to finish changing all those 555 GI sockets over and that one's done. The other 20 or so games I've done it to are mostly the heads so far, (with comet warm white retros) but I have done 5-6 machines inserts with the yopps (all bally/stern)

Can't say enough good about them. They go in so fast. Easiest if you take your PF and flip it over to work on so it's flat I have 2 4x4's that I use underneath with an old tshirt to protect the PF.

Yep this is the holy grail of shots on the game.... I think it gives you more than 5x but I'd have to check that.... I think I remember hearing it was actually 15x (3x5)

I've hit the standup with both lit a couple of times.

I have on other machines. (EBD and other games I no longer have).

The linears were created because they last a LONG time on location without maintenance. This is true, but the throw of the flipper gets longer and longer (making it easier to trap) as the button on the pawl wears.

I don't see an advantage to keeping them if you're rebuilding the flipper anyway. The parts are expensive and wear quickly.

Nope just the flippers. Why would you put an LCD screen on it?

Who changed it to Williams? I put the earlier bally pawls in which is what the original question was as well.

In general, the controlled lamps with have one bare wire running from socket to socket, and one thinner wire that goes into the harness for the ground at the scr on the lamp driver board.

The GI lamps are usually just a parallel run of bare wire, with occasional areas of an insulated wire used.

You could also pop out either the GI fuse or the controlled lamps fuse to see the difference visually.

Either fill rail holes or get new ones made; don't drill new holes in the PF. That's the hard to replace part....

Scores 25x

Definitely the money shot in this game