You are correct that the MEDIUM setting for DINER memory should let you shoot it into the cup after hitting the ramp once to open the divertor, and then should make you spell the whole word to shoot it into the cup the second time.

I would double check that you indeed have this MEDIUM setting still in place. This is under Adjustment 43. Keep in mind there are a bunch of auto-reset configurations that go into effect based on resetting the game pricing. So maybe the pricing scheme got changed and this inadvertantly changed the DINER setting to something easier than what you wanted?

sounds like a switch on the right ramp might not be registering. What does the diverter do?

Yes! The holidays is right around the corner and this would be a perfect gift

Hi! I have issue with diner and ww, maybe somebody know what can be helpfull. So if machine is turned off and ball located on outhole but not kicked to through with other balls, if i will turn on game it can blow cabinet fuse 4A slo blo for 250v. Any ideas why it happens and what can be help? Maybe somebody has same issue?

Thanks

Have you tried replacing the C-30 capacitor on the MPU? Weird startup issues can be caused by that. I have had quite a few that a new C-30 has fixed.

Thanks for advice i will try to replace it. you talking about 22uF?

Yes. It is not always the answer, but more often than not it will fix weird boot up issues on a system 11.

Its my go-to before I even start working on these old games.

Hi all my flashers in my back box are out, iv checked all my fuses and all are good any suggestions please?
Also where would I find the test for these in the test menu?

Thankyou

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For the folks that run the magnet MRS deal instead of the switch on the diner cup, is there a magic trick to get it to stick? Mine falls off about every 2 weeks.

I had to stick it on with the VHB tape, it hasnt fallen off in years.

The problem was than the curve didnt match the cup and the potting material inside the switch was interfering with the fit.

Which VHB tape did you use?

Sorted my flasher issue, if I change all of them to LEDs am I going to have any issues ???
Please advise

The only issue I had when changing the flashers to LED was that they got too bright. More like blinding actually. Specifically the flashers on top of the playfield under the domes. I put incandescants back in those.

Agree. Sometimes LED flashers are a bit much

Do you remember if you used 3m or some off brand? I don't have any, or more likely I can't find any right now so I have to get some.

I bought the 1/2" wide 3M VHB from Home depot and just trimmed it to fit the switch body.

You can also get it from Amazon,

Thanks!

I have some of the non foam 2 sided gorilla tape from when I made up the 3rd magnet kits for tz, that'd work probably... If I can find it.

On System 11B/11C games (those that use the Auxiliary Power Driver board = D-11813 or D-12247), if you install all LED flashers (no incandescent flashers) then flashers 3C/4C/6C/7C will flasher with flipper energization. There are several solutions to this issue. The easiest is to put just one incandescent back into any of 3C/4C/6C/7C. You can search this forum for more information. There are plenty of threads on this issue.

DumbAss is also being modest and not telling you that he also offers a very nice solution to this issue for a reasonable cost, I have 3 of them.

So I reinstalled my MRS today on the cup, gorilla tape to the rescue, I think that's going to work....however, I noticed that my right cup GI (there are 2 behind the cup), and both cup flashers do not work. I had not noticed one way or the other before now, I see no loose wires, and the bulbs are good. Tested while wiggling, plug and unplug, did it all, only lights in the entire unit that don't work. Right bulb behind cup and both cup flashers. I heard the relay click when I run the flasher test, but nothing...and of course it's impossible to see anything back there and pulling this pf out to get to that stuff is not happening anytime soon. :-/

That was the original version, fyi, where the potting material was on the inside - that was changed nearly 3 years ago now...his experience won't be the same...

Matt

If you have any MRS issues - simply reach out to Dan or I - we are very active on Pinside, that said, I don't show you purchasing an MRS from us - so it must have come with your pin when you bought it - and thus could have been installed improperly from the former owner? There are instructions that detail the necessity to properly clean the bowl, before attaching, with alcohol. Further we have been using a very strong, but - very thin 3m adhesive over the last 3 years that does not fail...but I'm not entirely sure what you have - the MRS should have a serial number on the connector - that would help me identify it's provenance....

Super that you are active on here and proactively reached out, thanks! It was with my game. It seems to pickup where I have it located now and I doubt it's coming loose again, gorilla tape for the win. This did have a very thin layer of clear sticky on it, it does not any longer. Lol. Now if you could fix my flashers magically that'd be even more amaze.

I remember somethingabout that.

Awesome that you are on top of things!

We try our best to be....it ain't always easy - always something that needs to be improved....but we still remain a phone call away for anyone!

Matt