Quoted from Davi:It's for the MPU board I guess.
That's one way to get it from leaking on the board 
I was going to guess it had something to do with a custom topper.
(Topic ID: 257696)
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2 months later
Quoted from pinballinreno:What did you use to anchor the wire?
Staples always looked cheap to me, and are difficult to manage down the road.
Im thinking of using something else.
In theory you dont need to anchor the wires if they are insulated.
How about these? 
1 week later
Quoted from tomdotcom:Making one from scratch makes zero sense and you'll have a shittier final product
Debatable
What’s worse about one from scratch? The new playfield? The new boards? The new cabinet? The new wiring? The new solder joints? The new plastics? The new back glass? The new lamps? The new rubbers? The new assemblies and mechs? The new hardware and screws? The new playfield glass? The new coin door? The new speakers? My gosh… almost forgot… the new pinballs? And you really can go on…
But more seriously, genuinely curious on why you think a scratch build with new parts is worse than a full game with the equivalent restored or replaced? It seems like a revitalization is a revitalization, a restore is a restore, and a scratch build is a scratch build, and they all have their place
Thank you for sharing your thoughts.
Quoted from LORDDREK:There is no way you read all 76 pages and made this post.
Are you agreeing that scratch builds don’t make sense, financial or otherwise? For expensive games, the scratch build typically comes out cheaper. In general, though, you’ll have a much newer product, albeit with some possible caveats that some parts might not be stock (just ran into this with a slam switch myself). Just because the journey is longer for someone, or possibly has more challenges or is more challenging, doesn’t mean it’s not worth it.
I think what Shredder565 is doing is great! Keep it up man, you’re almost there
I apologize, as I didn't realize this was a subtle encouragement for just going for a restore, instead of a scratch build. Might have helped maybe 70 pages or so ago???
At this point, I fail to see what the point of bringing that message into this thread is...especially when he's almost done?
Quoted from tomdotcom:Because he mentioned doing it again with a STTNG.
I lost the context, I apologize. Again, my mistake.
As radium said, STTNG would be a good restoration/revitalization candidate, due to the lower cost and more unique parts. Agreed
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Scratch builds are almost always MORE EXPENSIVE. Restores are much cheaper because you don’t have to spend 3 years of man-hours assembling a game...
Really depends if you're going for just a playable game or trying to get everything looking and playing like new, and build to last, including the parts that you don't see (e.g., mechs, PCBs, etc.). Also, depends if you view the time as a cost or a labor of love. White Water seems like one of the best candidates for a scratch build, as it's cost prohibitive to buy a donor machine and all of the parts are readily available.
In general, agreed, as it's a lot of work But not 3 years worth
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I run an arcade business and I’ve done the same thing as many of you. Already well versed in time and labor as a passion, it is still a cost to consider if you ever sell it.
Definitely a factor, totally agree with you there
If you can't reasonably (cost wise) get to what you want with a restore candidate, then it's time to consider the scratch build. Sometimes your time isn't able to bring in more cash and you need to get your hands dirty and essentially pay yourself below minimal wage, haha. Can't blame us if we need to learn and develop that 'wisdom' through experience
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I’ve noticed you selling a bunch of White Water parts for your build...
Not really appropriate for this thread, but if Mantis is making a part available in stainless steel, I'd prefer those over the zinc coated parts, as they are built to last. Same with boards developed by Victor, as there are no PCBs better. No sense in holding onto zinc parts or spare boards, as well as they might work. Same with spare parts when you have a budget - sell those spares and keep your costs down.
Quoted from twinmice:I saw that but there are a couple taller ones for the ramp and it dies not lost the plastic ones.
Drag and drop this onto a Google Spreadsheet, so that you can keep track of what you need: https://www.ipdb.org/files/20/Bally_1992_The_Addams_Family_Parts_List.txt
Tip from radium
Quoted from Shredder565:only if you don't know what you are doing, are limited by time and skill and parts. and trying too be as careful as possible as you go along.
hence, why this will be my one and ONLY foray. I'll be happy if it works
Don't get me wrong, you're not sitting there working for 3 years straight. You've been off and on with your project, which is nice to be able to do, instead of under the gun on some factory floor. Scratch build means you can make mistakes, learn (thanks to many helpful Pinsiders), and eventually get it done right
Looking forward to seeing what errors pop up on your game, if any, and then the troubleshooting steps in your build. All part of the process.
4 weeks later
Quoted from Shredder565:5 solenoids done. pop bumpers finished. identifying the next batch.
Awesome! Always interested in your photos. Feel free to post them
Are you soldering the lugs of the solendoid coils? Just placing them temporarily in order to test? Curious.
What caused the ground to blow? Did that line really go flying off the board like that, or did you pull it off? Wild stuff. Definitely break the manual out and go slow. You got this
Don’t waste money buying boards, only to blown them by not finding the wiring oopsie
1 month later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:…I wish I could put my hands on it myself…
@Shredder565, ask for the quote!
Get yourself a HEP 
Quoted from Shredder565:if stuff tends to be reliable, I tend to keep it . but, it WAS time for an upgrade.
I got this sucker.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087767KNW
For your consideration:
Weller Digital Soldering Station (you're going to solder a lot... make it easier to do)
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-Digital-Soldering-Station-WE1010NA/dp/B077JDGY1J
Kester solder with rosin .062" diameter (flows easily and will make your job easier, but has lead)
https://www.amazon.com/KESTER-SOLDER-24-6337-0061-Solder-183%C3%82%C2%B0C/dp/B00DDF2U5C
Weller soldering brass sponge tip cleaner (use when you need a clean tip (often is better))
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLACCBSH-02-Soldering-Cleaner-Silicone/dp/B08FQBS97L
Thermaltronics tip tinner (end each soldering session with it to protect your tip)
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltronics-FBA_TMT-TC-2-Lead-Tinner-Container/dp/B00NS4J6BY
And a nice cardboard box to keep it in and a large piece of flat cardboard keep things more clean
I'd still send the game to HEP
Quoted from Shredder565:I'll return the other one and pick up this sucker. I can imagine sending out a full game, or even just a playfield is a logistics nightmare.
not to mention expensive. imagine if it got lost!
Good deal! With the above solder iron and solder, I use 690 degrees and it works well. Everyone will have their own preference.
Quoted from Shredder565:I can imagine sending out a full game, or even just a playfield is a logistics nightmare.
not to mention expensive. imagine if it got lost!
HEP knows all of this, if you were going to EXPLORE that route.
Looking forward to the solder work
Quoted from hoby1:I have about 8 big rolls of 60/40 of radio shack in various sizes that I bought 15 years ago before the lead ban.
Not for sale even though they are fetching 75 plus or more.
Make sure to wash your hands before eating after using that stuff 
Quoted from fattmatt1972:lol.
Be a good challenge for you Chris, hehe
Matt.
I was looking forward to it, too
Quoted from Shredder565:lost in the mail. $400 insurance claim from ups. suing minipinhead for the idea ;o).
Counter-suing for exorbitant expenses due to scratch build inspiration 
1 week later
Quoted from Davi:I don't recommend to use sockets with horizontal long legs for GI.
Next short is just a question of time.
Instead, use the original socket with miniature (and vertical) legs:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-11905
Could he bend the existing legs 90 degrees?
Quoted from Shredder565:one of the first things I did was causing a short when I finally hooked them up today. so, it'll be the last thing I do to close up the back box.[quoted image]
What was the issue?
My challenge: photos of everything you do moving forward. Seems enough people are willing to help point out what is needed
Quoted from wallybgood:Hey 565
Pay careful attention to any to any exposed wires of the switch harness that are not hooked up yet.
If any touch ground; matrix errors will show up.
If any contact a solenoid, flash, or GI lug; IC's will be damaged on the CPU.
Wally
Gem of a post
Still convinced we need to see photos of every switch.
1 week later
Quoted from Shredder565:all right. the main flippers are wired up now. thanks to those union electricians spoken so lowley of about 10 pages back, that understand schematics better than I do
This?
Seems like you’re moving right along Very exciting! Do you have a current set of photos for the underside of the playfield? Won’t hurt to see if anything stands out that could be corrected, aesthetics aside, before you do more tests
Quoted from Shredder565:[quoted image]
An original/non-resized photo would be more helpful
Missing wire form
Several exposed wires
If you check the manual, are these wires all correct?
Are there supposed to be fuses here?
- A not-a-TAF expert
Quoted from Shredder565:I had that wire form in, but it keeps falling out. can't figure out how to get it to stay on right.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-wh2o-scratch-build/page/5#post-7888385
Posted about it there. Take off the bracket, put the wire back in, smash the tip of the end closest to the bracket in a vice, then reinstall. Check it out
2 weeks later
I'd replace this switch. Looks melted. Also, just make sure no metal is exposed touching the PCB fuse holder on the left.
I go 690 degrees on the soldering iron and still cause damage to the micro switches. The tinning technique and taking your time (e.g., letting things cool after installing a diode, rather than go straight to wiring) might help.
Quoted from Shredder565:this is the current status of my extra flipper board.
it was never really hooked up because I did NOT like how it was mounted.
but, once I find where my damn multi meter went, I cna check the others. first thing tomorrow.
[quoted image]
Quoted from pinballinreno:Dont let the extra flipper board "ground out" on the back plane metal, as it is right now. Its causing a high voltage short as it stands.
It MUST be completely "OFF" the back panel.
So, its not hooked up and you wonder why you have no power to the flipper?
Spacer (3) goes underneath the PCB (2) and rests on the screw (1). Screw head should be gently screwed down onto the PCB to secure it in place to the spacer, off the back box grounding plate. I’d double check all your PCBs for this.
Screws don’t appear to be correct, either. They should be 608. # 4008-01017-08 ms 8-32 x 1/2” p-rh-s machine screws (32 quantity), or see last paragraph of this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-wh2o-scratch-build/page/5#post-7904807
Source: https://www.ipdb.org/files/20/Bally_1992_The_Addams_Family_Parts_List.txt
Just combed through to find the low hanging fruit.
Make sure the wires are fully connected where they need to be and not touching where they should be. Again, the micro switches melt, so you might need to replace them
Lots of screws and loose wires, plus pieces of wire on the playfield. Invest in a mini shop vac set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077T88SP1
Debris on the magnets, especially metallic, can only be a hinderance, but I’m not familiar with playfield magnets
I’d get out the hammer and/or staple gun out and get these more secure
Ran into this myself, the pop bumper bodies and rings shouldn’t be anywhere near the leads, or else use tubing to cover the leads or different style sockets as this can’t be avoided
Needs a spring
Quoted from Shredder565:here is something interesting.
So, I cleaned out the magnet holes, and decided to test the magnets one by one.
The Lower Two worked fine. no fire, no smoke, all the solenoids worked.
I hooked up the upper one with the lower three, suddenly, the center right and center left and lower jets stopped working, and the two slingshots stopped working. I un hooked all the magnets, and they still do not want to work.
So, either a problem with the upper magnet somehow, or the wiring leading to it?
if those solenoids stop working, is there a fuse or something on the back box I can check?
Wiring. Break out the manual. Start checking colors and to and from ends
Quoted from Pooman2084:Shredder565
I will stop repeating myself after this message as I suspect neither of us are enjoying reading / typing the same suggestions, but please, for the love of god, stop this sporadic ‘testing’ of unplugging and plugging in of random parts and breaking more things. It makes it really hard to follow and diagnose and help.
Maybe just ask if it’s a good idea before you do!
Get the multimeter and manual out and measure things without the power on!
Okay, this might be an obvious answer, but for the benefit of a newbie like myself, how can a multimeter help with the power off, other than to test continuity? I’m genuinely curious and just posting here (instead of Google searching), so Shredder565 can also benefit.
Quoted from Shredder565:hmmm....ATTN @JIMAKOST
Do we have a solenoid harness problem?
J2 is on the right.[quoted image]
Check all the connections against the manual as you connect them, or you can only blame yourself. Am guilty of not checking myself and only blame myself.
But that does really suck 
Quoted from pinballinreno:Compare it to the old one and wire it as necessary.
How do we know that one was 100% error free? Need to compare to the manual.
Quoted from Shredder565:For wallybgood you can tell which one caught fire due to screws..[quoted image]
Not sure what I’m supposed to be thinking when looking at this PCB, but noticed these two eye sores:
Quoted from Boat:We don’t like to see scratches on the playfield
It’s a… scratch build? Ba dum tss
Quoted from Shredder565:when the Rotis breaks under full load, it's time for something different, less a real disaster happen. that's been gone for months now.
If you find you want to go back to the rotisserie, but have a stable one, this one is a worthwhile investment:
All sorts of benefits, and makes the building experience more fun and less of a hassle.
Holds a lot of weight, so you don’t lose a wink wondering if the playfield you’ve invested so much time and effort into might come crashing down.
Quoted from Pooman2084:For the sake of all that’s holy, check for shorts before plugging the new boards in!
That’s check continuity to the uninitiated 
1 week later
Quoted from Shredder565:Credit button is bright and sharp...
Is Yellow-Grey attached to your Start Button?
I don't see it: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-scratch-build/page/88#post-7878288
Quoted from Shredder565:one of these is wrong. looking at the documents, pretty sure J133 is correct.
Not so sure on the Lamp side. Have to find that one yet.
[quoted image]
J133-1,2,4,5,6,7,8,9
J134-1,2,4,5,6,7,8
J135-9
J134 (left) J133 (right), right? These look good.
Do you have a photo of your J135 connector?
Quoted from Shredder565:if any disney stock holder wants some laughs ;o)
I'll be on this thing all day at this rate , heh.
Page 100
Are your J133, J134, and J135 connectors attached to the power driver board? Am I wrong in thinking that you’re attaching J133 to the *THING* board?
If I’m wrong, then it appears you may have RED-GRY attached to the *THING* board and I don’t believe that belongs there. WHERE IS YOUR YELLOW COLUMN WIRE???
From one novice to another, focus on the manual, your wires, and checking everything. Labeling your connectors (when confirmed correct) is extremely helpful, and necessary if you can’t remember much you read in the manual after you read it (my case).
Forget the crimps and redoing stuff until you know it’s the issue. People will say stuff about your technique, but clearly your wiring is in question and what is holding you back. Logically, the Manual tells you everything, but the Parts Index is useful, too. Plus you lucky TAF builds have a spanking new manual with wire illustrations that I see you referencing, so keep it up
From the Parts Index, this is your speaker panel lamp cable (H-15236). If the colors listed below for the wires aren’t going to your *THING* board, then you HAVE THE WRONG CABLE.
542 .2 H-15236 spkr panel lamp cable 1
543 ..3 H-15236-C spkr panel lamp cable-cut 1
544 ...4 CW-30022-48 wire 22awg yel/gry 24
545 ...4 CW-30022-21 wire 22awg red/brn 24
546 ...4 CW-30022-20 wire 22awg red/blk 24
547 ...4 CW-30022-23 wire 22awg red/org 24
548 ...4 CW-30022-24 wire 22awg red/yel 24
549 ...4 CW-30022-25 wire 22awg red/grn 24
550 ...4 CW-30022-26 wire 22awg red/blu 24
551 ...4 CW-30022-27 wire 22awg red/vio 24
552 ..3 5792-10817-09 9r mt/end 22/156 2
553 ..3 5792-12116-09 9r mt/end 22/.100 1
554 ..3 5823-10820-00 "plz key mt .156""" 2
555 ..3 5823-12119-00 plz key-mt .100 1
556 ..3 03-7520-2 tie wrap-nylon 3 7/8
I believe the answer to your question about the *THING* board connector was already answered in this thread. Here’s another thread for more reading if you don’t want to look back:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-backbox-wiring-help
Pics:
J134 Appears Correct and Appears in the Correct Spot
J134 Appears Correct and Appears in the Correct Spot
J133 Appears to be in the Wrong Spot
J133 Appears to be in the Wrong Spot
J135 Appears Correct and Appears in the Correct Spot
J135 Appears Correct and Appears in the Correct Spot
7 Lamp Cable (example)
Quoted from wallybgood:Post # 4685.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-scratch-build/page/94#post-7943686
Might be out of date, don’t see that YEL-GRY anymore 
Quoted from Shredder565:before I order the correct wire: General Illmunation.
is the common consensus that it should be violet/white ? I will need to make my own this time.
Why aren't you addressing the *THING* connector and J133? What is this general illumination talk you speak of? 
Nice job!
GI from:
And the Tool Aid 18600 hasn’t failed me yet for crimping. Tried others and this one was the best one.
https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-SGT18600-Crimping-Barrel/dp/B00BQWO5RU (possibly cheaper elsewhere)
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:The PinDoc Plafield Rotisserie certainly holds a lot of weight. I did EXTENSIVE testing and can confirm its ability to support up to 5863 pounds, or 23 fully assembled Pinball Machines.
[quoted image]
Your product is top notch and makes the build/restoration so much easier and even more fun. Who doesn't like spinning their rotisserie just to see topside and underside progress together
Shredhead, the crimping advice above sounds solid to me. No need for a different tool, but do work on securing the first part of the pin to the insultation and then the second to the wire. When doing two wires, I cheat and do the wire crimping part first, then the insulation.
What happened to J133? Is your lamp harness complete? Is it labeled? If not, you should consider these:
https://www.amazon.com/Amgate-Write-Ethernet-Marking-100pcs/dp/B0153CAU2M
Tag a cable, in multiple spots even, and write yourself the reference information on it with a permanent marker. Get those back back connectors labeled and also where they meet up with the playfield, for example.
Also, have you ever considered a label maker and labeling what colors the cables are? YEL-XXX, RED-XXX, etc.? Will be helpful with doing your GI, as there are multiple sections of GI, so you'll need multiple cable colors for them, unless you have them already and are just going to go yellow for after the harness hits the playfield.
Quoted from Shredder565:I gave one more tool crimp a try and we'll see what happens when it gets here.
Will retry crimping all J 133's again.
Also, what I was asking with thiat image posted by me a few posts back was the following : Are THOSE considered the standard GI wire colors, or is Violet and White the standard? my last kit had violet and white.
I keep asking about J133, because I don't recall seeing a photo of it. It's not in the photo of your back box's power driver board. Why isn't it connected?
You're going to need Brown, Violet, and White-Brown and White-Violet for your playfield GI. The GI on the playfield is separated out so that circuits aren't overloaded (when using incandescent bulbs) and so one series of GI can toggle on and off independent of the other GI series (important regardless of bulb type you're using).
I'm not familiar with TAF, but the manual shows J120 has brown, violet, white-brown, and white-violet. Brown goes with white-brown to a GI bulb, for example, then you can add wire off that bulb and chain it to the next. For chaining bulbs into a series, you can just do plain yellow, like the factory, or be cool and hip and go with additional colored wire that matches what's coming from J120.
For creating the series of chained GI, make sure you solder the wire to the same solder tab/terminal on one socket as the next. Then do this for the second tab/terminal on the socket (e.g., wire on insulated tab on one socket goes to insulated tab on the next, and so on).
I'm not familiar with where in the manuals and schematics GI lamp locations are detailed on, but I'd say referencing photos of the underside of the TAF playfield is okay to help guide you to which bulbs go to the Brown series and which go to the Violet series of the GI. Don't use photos to copy the wiring, just understand you don't want to mix up the sides of the socket the wiring is going to.
Nice photos that shows the use of Brown and Violet: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/270#post-7838004
Quoted from Shredder565:Thanks. Putting in an order now.
As for J-133, I've got it crimped, but not inserted yet. I'm going to redo the crimps with the new crimp tool, so no real need for a photo yet. What I also asked about 9 posts back was a question on yellow/black for J-137. does that go in slot 6(?) the schematics show straight black, not yellow black, so wasn't sure.
I see what you mean and why that would be confusing. The coloring on those schematics is custom, so why it's straight black, instead of YEL-BLK, I have no idea as to the rationale.
The answer to your question is no and yes. You're counting from left to right. Count right to left. Don't pretend you're the pins on the PCB looking at the incoming connector (aaaahhhhhh). The rational for why it's right to left probably has to do with the PCBs and pin orientation on there. Stick to right to left...
So yes, stick that YEL-BLK pin into what you called, "J-137 slot 6", but know that it's J-137-4 (write it that way going forward and know that we're looking at the top of the connector and it's counting 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,K (key),9 from right to left on J137). Check it out:
(I just searched "J137" in the manual to get the info real quick )
Quoted from Coyote:Note that J137 and J138 are pinned exactly the same. You could reverse those plugs, and not run into any issues. (This is so that one plug can go to cabinet or backbox, and the other to playfield - so playfields could be removed without modifying any wiring.)
I think this is worded poorly. They aren’t pinned the same (one gets 7 wires and one gets 1 wire). They are interchangeable on the PCB, because they are for the column wires.
But why confuse the poor guy more???
Keep things labeled, stock, and in order so there are less variables in the build.
Quoted from Shredder565:this is how my luck goes with things.
Bought an AtGames Addams FAmily 4K Pinball. hoping to get to play it in the meantime while I work on the real one. Addams won't even work on it. just gives me a blank screen.
Would anyone want this for $700 for local NJ Pickup? you get to see the REAL Machine if you want too in person
How much for the REAL Machine?
Quoted from Shredder565:at this rate? not gonna happen, but $12,000 ;o)
How's J133?
Quoted from Shredder565:no 'me love you long time' 's please. I want to earn one rather than buy one
Then finish J133 so you can go to the bar and break out that serious nerd flex. She might not know what you're talking about, but she'll still dig you for it. More impressive than saying you broke 1 billion points on the latest Stern with stock outlanes
Quoted from Shredder565:Tomorow, I'll try and get J-133 done. Will wire one light from each string just to make sure the crimps all work...and then SLOWLY do the rest.
GI light wires should be here this week too..
It’s “J133” and then you can take it further and go J133-1, J133-2, etc. thru 9. Gotta make sure she knows which pins you’re talking about
Quoted from Shredder565:that is my guess as well, unless the different pins come with different sized 'jacket holders'.
I'm using .100 pins and .100 housings.
I'm guessing the wire gauge is 18.
before I start crying out of frustration, I had to redo them a THIRD time, because none of the ones in the photo above would catch.
THIS time, I just used my wire cutter grips to do it.
All of them are FINALLY in, and ready for testing.[quoted image][quoted image]
J133 looks good. Time to hit up the clubs
My dude!
That lamp board will never be right, because the header pins were installed on the wrong side of the board. Just look at it, how will it get affixed to the playfield with that connector and giant cable in the way 
Worry about the board being correct first and then focus on the cable. If you really wanted to test the cable, with the board likely causing you instances of vertigo, use leads and connect the column wires (YEL) to the corresponding pins, then connect each row wire (RED) to the corresponding pin one at a time. That’ll show you one bulb lit at a time (hopefully).
Enough crimp talk…time for a new lamp board 
Quoted from pinballinreno:Wow, good call!
I didnt see that and it was so OBVIOUS....
Wouldn’t have seen it that way either, except have been given wise counsel by those much more wise and experienced than myself
When certain Pinsiders give you advice, it’s best to listen and act on it 
Quoted from Shredder565:Ok, I managed to carefully pry off the connector pins. it's ready for a new connector now...magnets...If THOSE check out, I will continue with the light hookups.
Why stop the lamp verification and pinning to wait for the magnets? If I recall, there were a lot of loose wires for lamps. How do your other lamp boards look? Can you single lamp test the other inserts as you wire them?
The more photos the better
Quoted from Shredder565:ordered the wrong size pin for my pcb headers.. doh. so, waiting on another marco order.
managed to get this sucker in.
Also had just enough left of the old pcb headers to do one more board. Plugged it in, no go. must have messed up somewhere, but everything LOOKS right. the old board works fine...new board won't light up.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
My dude...
Your header is backwards. You're also working with a single-sided PCB (solder joints happening only on one side of the board). Please take the time to see photos of well-documented boards and how they are oriented. If you try to understand the concept of how they work and are oriented, then you'll understand how the majority of the lamp PCBs work and should be built (and not need the photos).
Solder goes onto pads, not fiberglass, to create joints with pins. If the board is single sided, then there are pads and solder on one side. If the board is double sided and has pads on both sides, then you solder on both sides. No pad? Then no joint and no solder (simple). You don't solder to fiberglass.
Great job including photos. They help everyone get a clearer picture (no pun) of what's going on and can better try and assist you
Example photo for your reference of # A-15112-1 / 5768-12948-00:
Quoted from slochar:The solder joints need to be redone. They aren't correct, the blob is too far up and not hitting the pad in the pic as far as I can tell.
When you solder joints like this, put your tip on the pad and the pin. From the opposite side of the iron melt the solder. It will flow around the pin and the pad.
Good advice, but they'll never be correct as there is no pad on the side he's working on.
Quoted from pinballinreno:...On the header pins:
Heat the pin more but add a little flux, as the solder melts put the tip of the iron on the pad of the board while contacting the pin also. Dont burn the crap out of the board, pull the iron off as soon as the solder melts to the board and pin uniformly.
Clean the tip of the iron before starting each joint with a copper scrubber. Add a little solder to the tip of the iron before making the joint.
The end result should be little pyramid "cone" shapes with the solder melted onto the pad as well as the pin.
What I see is balls of solder on the pin, but not good contact on the pc board pad.
Re-heating with a little flux should fix it.
When done, test the joints for continuity with your new meter set on ohms.
Why the flux? He should be fine with his high-quality solder. No continuity possible on the side he's trying to solder.
Quoted from Boat:Shredder do you have leaded solder and are you using some flux ?
He should have Sn63/Pb37 rosin core solder.
Shredder565 always feel free to ask before doing something. Take the time to present your ideas, questions, guesses, etc., and seems enough people would love to assist you. Posting photos and discussing would seemingly take more time, prior to acting, but seems it'd give you more time back and save you $$$
More photos please
Quoted from Boat:You are providing good advice yet you are lecturing everyone else like we are in the room with him, take down a notch. My gosh.
Apologies, can get excited and go overboard when I see pinball components get ruined, especially when there's incorrect advice floating around. Carry on
Quoted from orangegsx:Just to clarify, the header pins are facing the correct direction, but they need to be inserted THOUGH the board and soldered on the side the pads are on.
Reno maybe you should make your own thread for you addams. I'd love to follow your progress and maybe we could keep shredders progress straight.
Correction accepted, thank you You have much more finesse than myself
The header pins get inserted from the side where the connection is NOT being made. The guide box is on the side that is NOT receiving the connector. These are the same sides.
Solder the base of the pins that have pads. Don't over solder, because you want the connector to come all the way down onto the board and not rest on the solder joints.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Here is the exact board off of my game:
Note that you solder on this side as it says SOLDER right on it. You could not SOLDER the pins the way you have it placed, the plastic is covering the solder pads.
You have soldered it on the wrong side of the board.
Also the pins are long enough so that you can put the cable onto it after the pins go through the board.
[quoted image]
Here is the other side of the same board.
Note that there is a printed rectangle for you to put the plastic part of the header into:
[quoted image]
Its possible that if you put enough solder on the wrong side of the board, it might bleed thru and still make a loose contact to the upper side.
But, its not correct, though it might still work.
Now it makes total sense that on your earlier picture the solder is all balled-up on the pins.
there is No solder-pad for the solder to stick to on the wrong side of the board.
Your photos are a very helpful reference and it’s very kind of you to provide them. I just wish you wouldn’t mention tempting ideas like this though:
Quoted from pinballinreno:It’s possible that if you put enough solder on the wrong side of the board, it might bleed thru and still make a loose contact to the upper side.
But, it’s not correct, though it might still work.
There shouldn’t be space for solder to bleed through, right? Don’t want to tempt or confuse the guy. Marco needs their share
Quoted from pinballinreno:Lol, yeah, but he has already stated the the board actually works.
I was attempting to answer why this could be the case.
Ah! Makes sense, thank you. Sorry, I missed the rationale your explanation
Quoted from Shredder565:fixed old and new board.
Noticed two diodes in the wrong position on the new board, would explain the non working lights. will fix that tomorrow and hope for all working when my new diodes come in.
will have to clean up some of the splatter.
then work on the rest.
[quoted image]
Very cool! Make sure solder isn’t creating an electrical bridge between the pads. I’d visually clean that up, but you can also do the continuity testing to double check yourself.
Looking better. Always, more photos
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, 2 lights on the mansion aren't working,
three on the cousin it arn't working, one on the top isn't working.
either I'll need to redo some crimps, or replace some lights.
I'm doing the battery test next .
So, a 9 Volt red wire to the pin, and a 9 volt black wire to the metal part by the light should get it to light up?
need to get a toothbrush, but will clean the flux off monday.
Pics please
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, that's how I thought that they lit up... putting one wire on top of the silver circle pad the light sits on, but wasn't sure.
I'll test the bulbs first, switching them with the game off, and then do the test above.
first thing monday.
I’d start with testing the pins on the lamp board by clipping an alligator clip lead to the column pin(s) and then touching each of the row pins and seeing if the corresponding lamp goes on.
If it doesn’t, you could have a bad solder joint, a bad diode, a loose connection on the socket, a lead on the LED bulb that needs to be pushed to the edge of the base of the bulb, and the list goes on. Just because the leads to the pads of the PCB doesn’t turn on the bulb it doesn’t mean it’s a dead bulb. If n that case it could be the leads on the socket or the leads on the bulb not making the connection.
Flashers should be 12V and Inserts / GI should be 5V. The LEDs might say 13V or 6.3V on them. You won’t hurt bulbs testing them at a little higher voltage, but technically you’re using up their lifespan beyond what it’s rated for (negligible in this application).
Used this and it helped a lot with lamp testing: https://www.amazon.com/KORAD-KD3005D-Precision-Adjustable-Regulated/dp/B00FPU6G4E
The leads it comes with are garbage. Used the nicer pair from the digital multimeter.
There are lots of power supplies and ways to test, but did find having the standalone power supply useful. As well as:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XX25HFX
Enjoy
Quoted from Shredder565:6 lights across three boards. not bad, I guess.
any way to tell which crimps need to be redone just from the non working lights?
If you're sure it's not the bulb leads, or socket leads, then double check the soldering of the header pins underneath the cable connector. You can do a continuity check from the socket pad to the tip of the header pin with the game powered down / off. You'll need to know which pin is for which pad, or which column/row wire is for each lamp. If everything checks out, then you should check that the column and row wires are oriented correctly in the molex connector and turning on the correct bulbs in single lamp test. Ask if you don't know how to operate single lamp test in the menu
See lamp matrix: https://www.ipdb.org/files/20/Bally_1992_The_Addams_Family_Operations_Manual_January_1992_includes_schematics_OCR_searchable.pdf
If the wrong bulb is going on, you need to make the correction before you move on. This can also help you figure out the wiring, instead of blaming crimps when the issue is possibly wire orientation. If everything checks out, blame the crimps You can do a continuity check from the crimp pin in the connector to another part of the same colored harness wire (e.g., another connector) to see if you get continuity, but I'm betting on wire orientation.
Post photos of all the connectors on all the lamp boards and apparently a dozen of us will double check your work
Quoted from pinballinreno:Each wire and connector has a beginning and an end.
The beginning would be the driver board.
The end would be the connector you have in your hand.
If you dont have power at the end (the connector side) you can also test the power at the beginning.
follow the offending wire to the pin on the driver board and test for voltage there.
If you have voltage at the beginning (the pin on the driver board) and no voltage at the end (your connector), you have a broken wire or a bad connection pin.
NOTE:
lamps are energized in attract mode OR in single lamp test.
If the pin on the driver board has no power, LIKELY its not turned on for the moment.
Go to single lamp test or all lamp test and you should have power at the driver board.
You’d have him test the voltage on a known good board and say that’s likely his issue? Have you gotten a PM of photos of his lamp harness? Do you know if his column and row wires are correctly ordered on his connectors? Clearly he has power, or else all the bulbs wouldn’t be working in a column (positive, not ground).
I’d get the connections correct before testing voltage.
It can be as simple as a connector is reversed.
Quoted from pinballinreno:baby steps…
first verify the integrity of the lamp board.
This should only take about 10 mins.
then check that the wires are in the correct locations of the cable on BOTH sides..
Then check for power at the connector.
It "could" be a reversed wire in the connector, It "could" be a badly crimped signal or voltage pin, It could be a reversed diode etc..
Start at the beginning (the driver board) and work your way to the problem.
Agreed, to an extent. Working from the problem back to the driver board seems more efficient, unless we’re trying for more fireworks here?
Leave the power reading at the power driver board and the lamp board pins alone. Do a continuity check for the wire that is giving you trouble by trying to establish a connection from the crimped pin in the connector in question (because the crimp is hidden in the connector at this point) to another pin on the same wire path. Doesn’t matter where, as long as there’s supposed to be a connection. Keep things powered off for this. But we shouldn’t even be talking about this until the lamp boards and their connectors are checked out.
What we really need are the photos of the connectors and their wire orientation and order for each of the lamp boards, plus the diode orientation and the solder job on the headers.
My dude’s J133 looked good (lamp rows (ground)), but we never got a photo of J137 (lamp columns (live)) when completed. Can we have one, please? If we can get J137 confirmed, then we just need to worry about your connectors and connections on each lamp board
We know there is power coming out of the J137 header row on the power driver board, so testing power there doesn’t seem fruitful.
Keep things simple.
For curiosity sake, what reading would he get on J133 and J137 on the DMM?
Quoted from onemoresean:Did you fix this at D7?
[quoted image]
The solder creating an electrical pathway? 
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, all lamp test. everyone was getting around a .8 (or was it 8.0) volts but these where getting hardly anything. 1.0(.01?) I forget the range but it was one of the two.
this is with the all lamp test and the connector connected to the board.
[quoted image]
only one other pin didn't register in the 8s, and that was somewhere around 6.5 something.
The yellow, column wires look good on your A-15110 10-lamp PCB
But it looks like more of your red, row wires need to also be returning and extending the circuit (or connecting) from another lamp, or lamps.
All of your lamp boards need to be checked for wiring connection accuracy. There is a break down because the series circuit doesn't exist on some of your rows.
Quoted from pinballinreno:You are confusing the issue at hand...
Are you saying that 7 red lamp row wires end at A-15110 / the 10-lamp PCB? Not a TAF expert, but the manual he has should show otherwise.
Quoted from Shredder565:Looking at this, Row 6 connects to one of my other non working lights above.[quoted image]
But does it?
When testing the PCBs disconnected from the game, independent of anything off the board, you have to be aware that there can be multiple column pins, so certain pins won't turn on lamps with the battery unless you pick the correct column pin for the correct row pin.
On the 10 pin lamp board, one column pin with allow two lamps to turn on and the other eight. If you never moved the battery from the column pin to the other side of the header that's why two bulbs didn't turn on. When connected to the game, the connections between lamp panels and the cable could be the issue here.
Quoted from Shredder565:I'm known for taking a while to grasp onto concepts sometimes.
You should see if any of this info has sunk in: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-scratch-build/page/64#post-7185299
Have used it to make a visual cheat sheet so could wire up lamps real quick, and be confident things would work before testing.
Once the “lightbulb” goes off the lamps go on
Are the lamp boards all done (if so, congrats!)? Why start looking at new lamps? Really confused…
Quoted from Shredder565:lamp boards are all done.
Did you verify in single lamp test? I found installing the lamp boards to the playfield and watching what insert lit up when testing against a printed out playfield sheet from the manual to be helpful (and rewarding)
Quoted from Shredder565:yep. except for the ones not lighting up because the others where not hooked up yet, worked fine. and so far, the first two lights I hooked up, everything lights up fine like it's supposed too.
was looking at the lamp matrix and decided to go collumns instead, since it seems to get things done in groups more. Doing the more 'complicated' jets first.
Have to look up how these got connected again.[quoted image]
You may not want to hear it, but it seems this is the point when you could address the lamp boards, but move onto something else and leave them incorrect and/or unfinished
The lamp boards don’t need anything else hooked up on the playfield to work, as the lamps on the matrix are independent of each other when wired properly. If you do single lamp test you’re turning on the listed lamp and nothing else.
If the column and row wires, and the diode orientation, are all done correctly then lamps on the boards will work independently no problem. If you’re experiencing issues it’s not because you need to wire more lamps.
Quoted from Shredder565:All but 4 or so at the top. need more of those blasted little cpu standoffs to put the rest of the boards on. missing about ten of them.
All LEDs attached soldered on and working. single light lights up as single light should..
progress. last 4 tomorrow. Then maybe move on to the GI lights next week. have to make the cable first.
Will you use used # 20-9534 standoff clips? If so, I’ll send you what you need free of charge. If you want new, here you go:
Quoted from Shredder565:All but 4 or so at the top. need more of those blasted little cpu standoffs to put the rest of the boards on. missing about ten of them.
All LEDs attached soldered on and working. single light lights up as single light should..
progress. last 4 tomorrow. Then maybe move on to the GI lights next week. have to make the cable first.
Only looked at the video briefly. Doesn’t look like these bulbs went on at all:
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Only looked at the video briefly. Doesn’t look like these bulbs went on at all:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Watched your video again. Those two bulbs never go on. You said all the lamp board lights work, but are you sure? Why post the video with them not working if they are now?
2 weeks later
Quoted from Shredder565:I daisy chained the ground and put that on all the bottom run, and the regular wires on the top rung.
Does this look OK before I solder it?[quoted image]
Don't upset the OCD, thread it through
1 week later
Quoted from Shredder565:also, at the end, I'm assuming that is NOT how the outhole (or was it the ball ejector) solenoid should sound and something is wrong.
Is there a spring on the plunger?
Quoted from emsrph:Also, isn't it preferable to have the coil lugs be at the opposite side from the coil stop (i.e., flip the coil 180 degrees)?
In this case it is done correctly, as per the manual and stock game. If he flipped it 180 degrees then the mech arm would hit the lugs and we don’t want that.
Quoted from Shredder565:it's there. and yes, lots of soldering cleanup to do.
thankfully, the pin is marked safe from the earthquake
[quoted image][quoted image]
That’s the armature and not the plunger. The plunger spring resets the plunger and gets the armature back into ready position. Get that plunger spring on there pronto. You don’t want to be cooking your coil…
Quoted from Coyote:Nono, you're missing the spring on the coil's plunger. That spring on the kicker arm is supposed to be there, yes, but it won't make it reset.
You also have a LOT_ of space between the coil and the coil stop. Using the right coil sleeve there, and is it mounted in right?
His coil sleeve is oriented backwards. Good eye.
Quoted from Shredder565:I need another .62 female/male combo. marco doesn't seem to have 'em. will have to see about mcmaster carr..
spring should get here next week.
In case it helps: https://wirebot.xyz/collections/0-062-1-58mm
Quoted from pinballinreno:Not true
I always put condoms on the LED bulbs.
In fact even with the colored bulbs, I still put the condom.
I just HATE the way the white bulbs look when the game is powered off.
Comet makes colored domes so the bulbs are colored accordingly even when off
Here: https://www.cometpinball.com/products/colored-lens-indicator-lamps
Very useful
Quoted from Shredder565:nope, just the picture. and if it where, it isn't screwed in hard enough to be permanent yet. I can still move it over left or right.
Too close to the edge of the playfield. The coil assembly will be sticking out. You need to find a reference photo if you lost the dimples.
Quoted from fattmatt1972:[quoted image]
It's still good.
(taken from the Simpsons)
And for a more constructive comment, if I were you I would consider getting EVERYTHING placed correctly then strip the whole thing, fill all the speed holes and sand it good then re assemble it all.
Trying to fix all those holes with the playfield populated will be a nightmare and will never look good, not to mention all the micro particles of sawdust n crap you will get in all the mechanicals and little crevice's.
Matt.
Time for a playfield swap
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