(Topic ID: 253922)

PinDoc Playfield ROTISSERIES starting at $250.00

By wrd1972

3 years ago


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    There are 743 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 15.
    17
    #1 3 years ago

    Looking for the best fixture to mount your pinball playfield up for repair and restoration?
    Looking for a unit that is strong as HELL, and will last likely forever?
    Looking for a fixture at a terrific value, that will also maintain its value for future resale when your finished with it?
    Look no further...the PinDoc Rotisseries are HERE!

    $250.00 Shipped- Pro model rotisserie
    https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1236-pindoc-restorations

    $295.00 Shipped- Premium model rotisserie
    https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1236-pindoc-restorations

    $375.00 Shipped- LE model rotisserie
    https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1236-pindoc-restorations

    All rotisseries are constructed using 1" - 16 gauge cold steel square tubing, and not the "cheap thin, flimsy stuff" like some others. They are also fully hand-welded and will accommodate nearly any size PF out there (up to 30"), with the only exception being Hercules...Duh! All rotisseries are constructed using 2" hand knobs that are used set the desired rotation resistance or to lock the playfield (like a vise) in any position you like.

    All Pro and Premium rotisseries will arrive in a bare metal finish. Once they are cleaned, they can easily and quickly be spray painted to any color you wish. All LE Rotisseries will arrive in a super-durable powdercoat finish (excluding the 3/4" sliding pieces used for the extenders).

    PRO MODEL:
    I am offering the two triangular side frames with adjustable poly-clamps, the rotating brackets, and the welded lock-down nuts and bolts for the optional extenders (not included). I have found that you can purchase 1/2" electrical conduit in 60" lengths from any big-box store, and use those for the extensions for less than $10.00. This is an economical solution and will do the job nicely if extra care is taken when using or moving the loaded unit. C-clamps are not included. I do not recommend lifting or moving this configuration with a loaded playfield.

    PREMIUM MODEL:
    I am offering everything mentioned above plus the fully adjustable 1" and 3/4" square tubing extenders as shown. This is a significantly more rigid solution than using an electrical conduit. C-clamps are not included.

    LE MODEL
    I am offering everything above in a durable gloss black powdercoat (excluding the four 3/4" sliding pieces used for the extenders). Other colors are normally possible, and the available colors can be chosen by referring to www.ralcolor.com. Please place your order, and PM me the color you like to have. C-clamps are not included.
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    Want to see the PinDoc Rotisserie in action? Click below:

    Also introducing the optional Sidekick adapter, that can be used with Pro and Premium Pindoc Rotisseries. This new adapter is adjustable and will allow you to mount up both standard and wide-body System11 and WPC playfields, to the existing side mount brackets on the playfield. No need to c-clamp or otherwise clamp the rear of the playfield to the rotisserie, and no need to remove components from the rearmost areas of the playfield. All Sidekicks include the required hardware to bolt up the playfield.

    $205.00 Shipped- Premium Sidekick
    https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1236-pindoc-restorations

    $280.00 Shipped- LE Sidekick
    https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1236-pindoc-restorations

    The Premium Sidekick adapter is constructed from 3/16" cold steel angle, 1/8 cold steel angle, and 16 gauge cold steel square tubing.
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    Dont forget your optional Sliders. These will attach to all Bally, Williams, Stern and JJP. When using the Sliders, there is no longer a need to use c-clamps to attach the playfield to your Rotisserie. They can also be easily drilled to accommodate non-typical playfields.
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    #2 3 years ago

    I would most likely be in!

    #3 3 years ago

    Good idea!
    I would be interested

    #4 3 years ago

    Looks awesome! Yeah, count me in!

    #5 3 years ago

    Question - why is one side up on blocks?

    #6 3 years ago

    Just for giggles, we were playing the game on the rotisserie. So we had to tilt it for the ball to roll.
    No other reason. I will get some more detailed pics in the next day or two.

    #7 3 years ago

    I am in for this.

    #8 3 years ago

    I would be interested in this as well.

    #9 3 years ago

    Looks good

    #10 3 years ago

    Yes

    #11 3 years ago

    Heck yes for me

    #12 3 years ago

    Interested

    #13 3 years ago

    Possibly... I would need a lot more information before purchase vs build decision got made on my end. I have been kicking around the idea of finally getting one for a long while now.

    #14 3 years ago

    Okay looks like there is some interest. Thanks guys.

    rufessor,
    i am planning on posting some additional more detailed pics in the next day or two. You stated you need a "lot" more info before purchase. What other info do you really need that I did not already cover? Aiming to please here.

    #15 3 years ago

    Looks great!

    #16 3 years ago

    Really looking for better pics, most interested in three things.

    Rotational locking mech-
    How many degrees of freedom?
    Stability when locked (slop in mech)?

    Playfield locking/clamping mechanism
    How does it work?
    Variable length? Range?
    Width? As above

    Height adjustment?
    Must it sit on an existing bench?
    Stand?

    Probably more.... these are “simple” devices but many designs have been attempted here on pinside with plus and minus to all. Not a one size fits all product. Just want to know more about everything.

    Honestly- my reading was you made exactly one of these- it worked for you and now your contemplating selling them. I have no issue with that- maybe you read every thread here on their design and took all the good stuff and put it together. That would be great but none of that information comes out of your initial post. Maybe you are a pro welder and own your own fabrication shop and this is a fun side project- who is to know without a little information.

    I have no issues with any of this nor do I expect or really care if your a pro- just providing some context as to what someone may conceivably want to know before buying. You were perfectly clear in saying you would add info and were checking interest. Thank you for asking for what kind of information would be most helpful!!’

    For me thats a short list off the top of my head and a little bit of why. Others can add to the list.

    Thank you!

    #17 3 years ago
    Quoted from rufessor:

    Must it sit on an existing bench?
    Stand?

    It's roughly 2 feet high so I would guess yes.

    #18 3 years ago

    I would definitely be interested!

    #19 3 years ago

    I would suggest doing a hand knob over the using just a bolt.

    amazon.com link »

    #20 3 years ago
    Quoted from mario_1_up:

    I would suggest doing a hand knob over the using just a bolt.
    amazon.com link »

    100% percent.

    #21 3 years ago
    Quoted from TheLaw:

    It's roughly 2 feet high so I would guess yes.

    Less guess = better

    More info = possible suggestions for simple improvements...

    Quoted from TheLaw:

    100% percent.

    #22 3 years ago

    JJPOTC and Wonka owners should all be interested in one of these.

    #23 3 years ago

    I would be interested for sure.

    #24 3 years ago

    I've got one and would still be interested at that price

    #26 3 years ago

    I bought the similar one from marco and sent it back immediately because of quality.

    I would be in on this one.

    #27 3 years ago
    Quoted from mario_1_up:

    I would suggest doing a hand knob over the using just a bolt.
    amazon.com link »

    That particular hand-knob is 3/8" threaded, and I feel its not up to the job for here. So in my opinion, it just can not provide the clamping power that is needed to lock the playfield down. So for my design, I am using a 1/2" bolt that clamps the playfield down, and does so without any slop.

    Obviously you could purchase a 1/2" hand-knob and use that instead of the bolt. But in order to keep the price down, I will likely not make that offering. I actually tested both, and the 1/2 bolt is far superior for this application, and will not wear out either.

    #28 3 years ago

    Agreed with earlier poster... all of the lock ins should be hand-settable... having to use a wrench, pliers, lock grips, etc. every time I want to make an alteration just sucks, based on experience with a similar table size rotisserie as your current version. I changed out to screwable knobs, similar to those used for a water faucet.

    #29 3 years ago

    I'm in for one.

    #30 3 years ago

    wrd1972 - two questions from me:

    #1 - newbie question, sorry. I've never used a rotisserie or seen one in person yet, but after doing my first playfield tear down/repair this year I know I want one now. How does the playfield actually physically get mounted onto the rotisserie? Clamps? Can you show a picture?
    #2 - where's the order form?

    #31 3 years ago

    Thank you for your answers! Great description and looks like its well put together!

    Thank you

    #32 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mathazar:

    wrd1972 - two questions from me:
    #1 - newbie question, sorry. I've never used a rotisserie or seen one in person yet, but after doing my first playfield tear down/repair this year I know I want one now. How does the playfield actually physically get mounted onto the rotisserie? Clamps? Can you show a picture?
    #2 - where's the order form?

    Good question.
    For basic EM and early 80's solid-state playfields. You can use some basic c-clamps to attach the PF to the rotating brackets. Those are pretty straight forward.

    For more modern playfields that have a very tall back wall such as the Fire as seen in the above pics. I had to drill holes in the rotating brackets and then screw the PF down in the back. You could also use tall c-clamps as well but at some point, they might impede rotation just a bit. Or lastly, you can just disassemble whatever it takes to avoid using screws, and revert back to the standard c-clamps.

    If I decide to do this, I will NOT be drilling holes in the rotating brackets again to keep the cost down. But you could very easily do this yourself based on your needs.

    Quoted from rufessor:

    Thank you for your answers! Great description and looks like its well put together!
    Thank you

    Your very welcome.

    #33 3 years ago
    Quoted from Elicash:

    I bought the similar one from marco and sent it back immediately because of quality.
    I would be in on this one.

    Could you please expand on this? I would love to hear what the issue was as to ensure the best possible tool

    #34 3 years ago

    Ill buy one. I think I bought one from you but I could use a second one.

    #35 3 years ago
    Quoted from wrd1972:

    Could you please expand on this? I would love to hear what the issue was as to ensure the best possible tool

    I believe that it was flimsy.

    #36 3 years ago

    I would definitely be interested in one. Also open to the community providing any tips on modding it. While I understand the bolt won't wear out, having to grab a wrench anytime I want to lock/unlock would get real old real fast.

    #37 3 years ago

    Nice looking setup Bill.

    I think if you wanted you could offer it with like a 2" long piece of round bar centered and welded to the top of your 1/2" bolt for a quick and easy handle, then you could still use an open ended wrench if you really wanted to tighten it up.

    When I built my setup (wood not metal) I didn't bother with cross bars at all, but simply screw the ends down to my work table. I, of course, have a table top with a replaceable surface you can screw into.

    #38 3 years ago
    Quoted from dung:

    having to grab a wrench anytime I want to lock/unlock would get real old real fast.

    I originally used some ready made handles at my hardware store only to swap out for eye bolts.
    This post mentions 1/4 - 20 but I upsized to 3/8.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-quick-and-dirty-rotisserie-guide/page/2#post-665708

    I like the eye bolt as it is pretty easy to tighten by hand or use any handy straight implement to torque down.

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    #39 3 years ago

    Looks great - put me on the list!

    #40 3 years ago

    I'd be in.

    #41 3 years ago

    Looks like you are going to be busy.

    #42 3 years ago

    Okay the interest is there for sure. I am now starting the process of sourcing materials to see if that price point can be met. Still looking at this thing from a "bare bones" perspective, so its still not likely to have any hand-knobs included.

    I understand the thinking of the hand-knob being a convenience. But I really want to avoid any cost adders if possible. I would much rather put that money towards better quality materials.

    Again anyone can add a hand knob at a later date if they choose. But if I really thought it was a big benefit, I would have it on mine. I just lay the wrench under the rotisserie and its easily accessible when needed. Plus I have found that I am not really constantly rotating the thing anyway. It just tends to stay in one position most of the time when I am reconditioning playfields.

    I guess I could "consider" a Limited Edition painted rotisserie with your choice of graphics, hand-knobs as well as a numbered plaque. But if you have to ask what it would cost - you cant afford it. Premium model might be slightly cheaper though.

    #43 3 years ago

    Here is something I don't like about the one I have. It doesn't turn very easily when a PF is clamped down to it. Although that may be just the method I am using to hold it down. I am using aluminum clamps that one would use to hold a camper top down on a pickup. So, for what that is worth.

    #44 3 years ago

    I'd be in for one as well. Depends on the lead time as I could use one in the next couple of months.

    #45 3 years ago

    Not sure how many you can build in a month, but those of us going to PinCinnati could save you some shipping expenses. Just a thought.

    #46 3 years ago
    Quoted from Gryszzz:

    Not sure how many you can build in a month, but those of us going to PinCinnati could save you some shipping expenses. Just a thought.

    I am planning on being there. How many can your crew vouch for?

    #47 3 years ago

    For experienced users of a roto: Is a floor stand or table top better? Ergonomics, slip etc.

    #48 3 years ago
    Quoted from KozMckPinball:

    For experienced users of a roto: Is a floor stand or table top better? Ergonomics, slip etc.

    It's all about your working space. Not everyone has that much free table space to work with to put one or two PFs out... and then still have space for all their stuff.

    I liked the rolling rack for that reason.. I could move around it easy enough and move it out of the way when needed.

    Being able to work on a PF from either side is a big bonus too.

    #49 3 years ago
    Quoted from wrd1972:

    I am planning on being there. How many can your crew vouch for?

    I'm a one man crew lol.
    Looking through this thread, looks like about 3-4 of us are Midwesterners. If you or I post in the PinCinnati thread, you'd prob get a better gauge. I'm guessing you could sell 10 easily.

    #50 3 years ago
    Quoted from Gryszzz:

    Not sure how many you can build in a month, but those of us going to PinCinnati could save you some shipping expenses. Just a thought.

    Was that a full sentence?!!

    There are 743 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 15.

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