(Topic ID: 257696)

Addams Family - Scratch Build?

By Shredder565

4 years ago


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There are 5,485 posts in this topic. You are on page 91 of 110.
#4501 4 months ago
Quoted from Pooman2084:

If you ever have a loose hole, use a couple of broken cocktail sticks and wood glue in the hole then screw back in. Be VERY careful using longer screws

yes, this was the method I was going to use, but I used a screw that was just slightly longer. SO FAR, I have not drilled through the playfield, thankfully.

backbox and cabinet is done. book case is back and finally hooked up, as is thing. sans both motors. once those go on, things outer housing will go on next and the top should be done minus the extra top lights and switches.

the flippers need hooking up again, and tomorrow I Will tackle the Swamp and the outhole switches and the bottom should be considered done.
all switches redone are confirmed working and wired properly. no shorts. no open or closed where they are not supposed to be (minus three jet switches, which I think are just improperly places near the plunger).

hoping to get the bottom finally in order by next week. getting closer.

407687162_10160813786715211_5782744315727336594_n (resized).jpg407687162_10160813786715211_5782744315727336594_n (resized).jpg
#4502 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

used a longer screw. book case is back and hooked up for the first time ever.

NEVER USE A LONGER SCREW.

Instead cut off 2 or 3 pieces of a wooden toothpick or bamboo BBQ skewer about 3/8" long.

Put a drop of titebond wood glue into the hole, put a couple pieces of toothpick into the glue filled hole.

Screw the screw in until it "bites" let it dry a bit and tighten it a bit more.

If it strips out again, put more toothpick pieces (up to 4 or 5) to completely fill the hole with glue and wood, reinstall the screw.

This is how its done.

You can do this throughout the entire game as you strip out screws.

#4503 4 months ago

It wasn't super much longer, not even half an inch...but, point taken. I had, I Think 3/4 and 3/8th screws around and used the slightly bigger one. also made sure to judge it against the playfield to make sure it didn't poke through.. but, last time for that.

looking up other wire colors for the flippers, I don't see anyone with the colors I have.

most people seem to have a black wire in the middle.
https://imgproxy.pinside.com/9EFHMbyCa882_rRLUA17Yxf9SX14Sn5khWmvWt415M8/rs:fit:2048:2048/q:85/fn:Pinside_forum_7901392_3674668/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tL2UvNDIvNDQvZTQyNDRjZWE1NTkzNzI2MzNhMzY5NGY4ZTg2OTRhMGRiNjIzYjBkNS5qcGc

407679335_10160813901360211_7583634937915711882_n (resized).jpg407679335_10160813901360211_7583634937915711882_n (resized).jpg
#4504 4 months ago

If you got away with putting a 3/4" screw into the bottom of the playfield, count yourself lucky. As other's mentioned, toothpick/skewers and wood glue is the right fix.

And for a bit of math...3/4" screw is 100% larger than 3/8"...even if it is "only" half an inch longer...

#4505 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

to make sure it didn't poke through

#4506 4 months ago
Quoted from setzkor:

If you got away with putting a 3/4" screw into the bottom of the playfield, count yourself lucky. As other's mentioned, toothpick/skewers and wood glue is the right fix.
And for a bit of math...3/4" screw is 100% larger than 3/8"...even if it is "only" half an inch longer...

I bought one or two toothpick boxes a few days ago and most seemed too small for the hole. and the smallest dowel lowes had was too big:/... went looking for the sticks I used last time when I had a hole to fill, and couldn't find the damn things :/. I never throw anything out and had a whole bag of 'em still left.....wherever I got those from where the perfect size. still have the wood glue, just couldn't find the darn sticks.

#4507 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I bought one or two toothpick boxes a few days ago and most seemed too small for the hole. and the smallest dowel lowes had was too big:/... went looking for the sticks I used last time when I had a hole to fill, and couldn't find the damn things :/. I never throw anything out and had a whole bag of 'em still left.....wherever I got those from where the perfect size. still have the wood glue, just couldn't find the darn sticks.

Hi @shredder565,

You can put multiple cut toothpicks into one reamed out screw hole along with a little bit of wood glue. It will then be a tight fit and ready for you to attach something (bracket, light socket, etc.) via a small screw. I have used this method for several years and it provides a nice solid base for the screw to bite into and I have never had any issues.

Gord

#4508 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

It wasn't super much longer, not even half an inch...but, point taken. I had, I Think 3/4 and 3/8th screws around and used the slightly bigger one. also made sure to judge it against the playfield to make sure it didn't poke through.. but, last time for that.
looking up other wire colors for the flippers, I don't see anyone with the colors I have.
most people seem to have a black wire in the middle.
https://imgproxy.pinside.com/9EFHMbyCa882_rRLUA17Yxf9SX14Sn5khWmvWt415M8/rs:fit:2048:2048/q:85/fn:Pinside_forum_7901392_3674668/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tL2UvNDIvNDQvZTQyNDRjZWE1NTkzNzI2MzNhMzY5NGY4ZTg2OTRhMGRiNjIzYjBkNS5qcGc
[quoted image]

The problem with "just using a longer screw" is that "now" its only hanging on by the tip of the screw that is currently grabbing.

With just a minor amount of vibration or stress, it will definitely fall out.

By putting new wood in the hole (I strongly recommend bamboo skewers due to their hardness) and supporting it with aliphatic resin (titebond glue), you can use the whole length of the screw "again" to support a device.

In theory it will be stronger than the original hole.

#4509 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I bought one or two toothpick boxes a few days ago and most seemed too small for the hole.

Put 4 pieces in the hole. Put 8 pieces of toothpick, it will fill it.

#4510 4 months ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Back in the day ... Randy Fromm was a big thing. I was taught correctly
Most you kids dont remember when we had classes to learn this stuff .

God dang.. I haven't heard that name in FOREVER. Thanks for that blast from the past!

#4511 4 months ago

Use bamboo skewers instead of toothpicks. The skewers you can buy for shish kebab in the grocery store. The are fibrous and kind of split and grab the wood and screw really well. And they are large enough to fill a pretty big hole. You can split them down smaller for smaller holes. I find that I don't have to use wood glue unless it is a really bad situation.

#4512 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Put 4 pieces in the hole. Put 8 pieces of toothpick, it will fill it.

to my mind, I would have thought it wouldn't be stable. too many cracks in between the tiny toothpicks and such. but, now that I know that's not the case, saved away for future knowledge.

the book case is forever done. have not tested it yet..but at least it's finally hooked up.

preparing the last of the switches for final hook up. also got rid of the last of the shrink tubes not liked by the group, so that's gone .
switches should be done today. that just leaves the THING Motor, the THING metal housing.....and wiring the top switches and lights. and bottom should be done, minus flippers..

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#4513 4 months ago

wow, that is going to take some getting used to. turned it on to test the outhole switch, and the book case works as soon as the game turns on. so, that one is out of the way. noisy thing.

#4514 4 months ago

You’re lucky no breakthrough since the playfield is 1/2” thick. A 3/4 screw is way too long.

#4515 4 months ago

What’s up with this? Lamp socket looks like it’s going to short on the mech? Or is it an optical illusion? Whys the wire pinched?

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#4516 4 months ago
Quoted from ryanbrooks:

What’s up with this? Lamp socket looks like it’s going to short on the mech? Or is it an optical illusion? Whys the wire pinched?
[quoted image]

Wow! Good catch.

Definitely looks like soldering iron melted to the bare wire.

Fortunately it looks like an easy fix as the lamp socket can be removed pretty easy and then a piece of shrink tube added.

This would be good any way if the wire "rubs" on that edge.

#4517 4 months ago
Quoted from ryanbrooks:

What’s up with this? Lamp socket looks like it’s going to short on the mech? Or is it an optical illusion? Whys the wire pinched?
[quoted image]

had to move about 3 lights to make sure they didn't hit the book case.. must have missed that one.

#4518 4 months ago

OK, switches are more or less done.

Figured out what was wrong with the jet bumpers. wired those center right wrong. had the green on the top lug and the diode in the middle.
Taking that off now and fixing that.

other than that issue, ALL switches work perfectly now... minus the swamp and the Thing Eject lane for some reason. when not connected to the switch, the wires register perfectly when touched together. when connected to the switch, nothing.

not sure if that was because of the wrong jet bumper wiring. but I guess I'll find out with that soon enough.

#4519 4 months ago

maybe spoke too soon on the jet bumpers. upper left says it's closed all the time. only changes when I press it. swamps do not want to work when connected and eject lane do not want to work when connected. everything else is fine and operational.

#4520 4 months ago

Think i'm done for the day. no idea it was 4 pm already.
where doing so good, and now seems issues are popping up after things test ok :/.

Jet Bumpers, working, but upper left seems closed.
Grave G- R- A- works.
Thing Eject Hole works
Right Slingshot works
Ball Shooter Lane and (51/27) above works.
Cousin It works.
Chair works, but causes short in Grave G, did not do that before.
Center Trough switches and outhole work.

Not working. 76/78/75
Thing Eject Lane.
all 4 swamp connections.

Again, tested every switch individually before hooking up. something happened after I got done with the sling shots, which where working perfectly.

is it possible it's another U20 issue? we didn't move the game when it was on, only off. game was always off when soldering. tested each switch after soldering and still worked fine up until about the sling shots.

#4521 4 months ago

last thing for the day. disconnected the sling shots.

now the eject lane works, but it sets off one of the jets.
one of the swamps works (sw 74) but only one, and it sets off one of the jets.
the troughs are now not working :/....

so, not sure what's wrong this time around.

#4522 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

jet bumpers. upper left says it's closed all the time. only changes when I press it.

Wired that one wrong. Compare to the working ones.

LTG : )

#4523 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Wired that one wrong. Compare to the working ones.
LTG : )

I don't see how. I wound up testing it before it got put back on.
And now the Thing Eject Lane triggers the right flipper solenoid :/.

something, somewhere is phooey. although just not sure what.

78 is also reading as 'upper left loop'

#4524 4 months ago

the only thing that went wrong during the setup that happened today was I noticed two trough switch diodes where backward. and I had the machine on while testing them, wondering why it wasn't working. that wouldn't fry a chip somewhere, would it?

#4525 4 months ago

Send some pics of the slingshot switches and wires?

Backwards diodes won't fry chips, but they will make your switch matrix go haywire until they're fixed, exactly like you're talking about.

#4526 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

the only thing that went wrong during the setup that happened today was I noticed two trough switch diodes where backward. and I had the machine on while testing them, wondering why it wasn't working. that wouldn't fry a chip somewhere, would it?

Backwards diodes on switches wont really blow anything up.

However as you have seen, the wrong switch will activate, or several switches instead of one.

This is why you have to be ACUTELY aware of diode direction and the correct wire locations.

The switch matrix chart tells you the diode direction and the correct wires and their locations.

Its time to stop just GUESSING and refer the the matrix chart for every single switch.

And STOP twisting stuff together to help you guess.

Its either absolutely correct via the matrix chart, or its wrong.

This is what Im hearing:

"I just hooked up a bunch of switches, YAY!"

My first question would be: "how to they compare to the matrix chart?"

If the answer is " I dunno..."

You have wasted your time.

#4527 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Backwards diodes on switches wont really blow anything up.
However as you have seen, the wrong switch will activate, or several switches instead of one.
This is why you have to be ACUTELY aware of diode direction and the correct wire locations.
The switch matrix chart tells you the diode direction and the correct wires and their locations.
Its time to stop just GUESSING and refer the the matrix chart for every single switch.
And STOP twisting stuff together to help you guess.
Its either absolutely correct via the matrix chart, or its wrong.
This is what Im hearing:
"I just hooked up a bunch of switches, YAY!"
My first question would be: "how to they compare to the matrix chart?"
If the answer is " I dunno..."
You have wasted your time.

Tough love time. It is definitely what is needed now that he is past the Erector Set phase of the project…

#4528 4 months ago

My challenge: photos of everything you do moving forward. Seems enough people are willing to help point out what is needed

#4529 4 months ago

I went slowly. doing one switch at a time, and in sections. I test them before soldering and after soldering and before installing and after installing. everything worked perfectly with no shorts, malfunctions, or anything like that...until I got to the swamp and the outholes today.

there where no errors/shorts listed on the matrix board during T3 either except for the three jets. center left/right and lower. but, since those where wired exactly the same as the two with the ones on the top...I assumed that was because of how I placed it next to the plunger (maybe causing the two switch leafs to contact and close).

I wired the slingshots, worked perfectly. and stopped for the day. after that, something, somewhere went wrong.
I was so confident that everything was going to finish properly, that thought today would be it.

#4530 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I went slowly. doing one switch at a time, and in sections. I test them before soldering and after soldering and before installing and after installing. everything worked perfectly with no shorts, malfunctions, or anything like that...until I got to the swamp and the outholes today.
there where no errors/shorts listed on the matrix board during T3 either except for the three jets. center left/right and lower. but, since those where wired exactly the same as the two with the ones on the top...I assumed that was because of how I placed it next to the plunger (maybe causing the two switch leafs to contact and close).
I wired the slingshots, worked perfectly. and stopped for the day. after that, something, somewhere went wrong.
I was so confident that everything was going to finish properly, that thought today would be it.

How does each and EVERY diode and connection compare to the matrix chart?

Each and EVERY single switch, one by agonizing one. Wire color checked twice and verified.
Wire position checked against the matrix chart.

Verified, checked twice, photographed if necessary and known to be perfect before moving to the next?

Just because you can jumper a switch and make the test activate means NOTHING.

Switch wiring ABSOLUTELY needs to be scientific in nature. One mistake can take days to sort out.

No guessing, no twisting wires together and HOPING its ok, none of that BS.

This is the ONLY way.

#4531 4 months ago

Hey 565
Pay careful attention to any to any exposed wires of the switch harness that are not hooked up yet.
If any touch ground; matrix errors will show up.
If any contact a solenoid, flash, or GI lug; IC's will be damaged on the CPU.
Wally

#4532 4 months ago

I applaude your hard work and perseverance.

Just want to point out that strict cleaning of absolutely all snips of component leads and strands of wire (no matter how small) must be contained and removed immediately as they occur. Do not allow them to fly to parts unknown or left for later.

If not there is a chance it can cause a short.

IMG_1358 (resized).jpegIMG_1358 (resized).jpeg

#4533 4 months ago

Backwards diodes will 100% cause the issues you’re having. A diode in the correct direction but shorted via bending causing a touch on the center lug will cause this as well. For example, the ramp switch from an Addams I worked on sometimes gets the diode bent out of shape from balls beating the ramp which causes a short to thing up or down into. Every time thing stops working, I know I need to check that switch. Finally redid the diode to be less susceptible to movement during the game and problem hasn’t come back.

#4534 4 months ago

trust me when I say there is no guessing at this point. and when I Was not sure, I have a half dozen Hep Photos I can double check for reference, like with the sling shots.

and even though I KNOW I did my due diligence in double and tripple checking, I went back and disconnected every switch, except for 5. G-R-A, Train Wreck, and the Upper Right Jet. I also know that everyone was put on right, with the white wire facing away from the diode line and the green in the middle (except for the trough switches, which where fixed)...

Now, all the errors are gone...except a new one popping up. Thing Opto claiming is closed.
I thought Thing Opto was not used?

this is what the ones still connected look like. the A switch is not touching even though it looks like it was.. and just in case, I just trimmed away the excess blob. I also did a new sweep of wire trimmings and solder blobs...

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#4535 4 months ago

So, this is where we are. 10 switches hooked up and working. G-R-A- Train Wreck, Out Hole, Center, Top trough and lower trough. Chair, Cousin it.

Switches not hooked up, but working. Vault. Right Flipper Lane, Right Outlane. Swamp Millions. Ball Shooter Lane. Right Ramp, Upper Right Look, Thing Eject Lane.

switches Not working and not hooked up.
Thing Eject Lane. Left Outlane Left Flipper Lane 2/1, Right/Left Slingshot. Shooter Lane. All Jets.

The shorts from before are all gone now. activating one, only activates one. Opto error vanishes when unplugging the thing board cable.

408538123_10160817113010211_4881474431360421616_n (resized).jpg408538123_10160817113010211_4881474431360421616_n (resized).jpg
#4536 4 months ago

When putting 2 wires on a lug, twist them together and solder them so that the insulation is very close to the lug, no more than 1/8" away from it.

Any frayed out ends MUST be trimmed off.

This is an example of how NOT to do it (to be honest, its terrible):
bad soldering 1 (resized).jpgbad soldering 1 (resized).jpg
bad soldering 2 (resized).jpgbad soldering 2 (resized).jpg

Check every joint and fix all of these errors.

#4537 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

Switches not hooked up, but working.

If they are not hooked up, how can they be working?

#4538 4 months ago
Any frayed out ends MUST be trimmed off.
This is an example of how NOT to do it:
[quoted image]
Check every joint and fix all of these errors.

Twist wires firmly together, tin them so they stay together, then solder to the lug.

REMEMBER, the wires dont have to go the the hole.

For instance, suppose there were 3 wires?

Tin the lug, twist the wires firmly together, tin the wire bundle, press the tinned bundle the the lug, heat the lug and bundle til it melts a bit, wait for it to cool.

Orient the wires so that they end up vertical, NOT sideways if possible.

#4539 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

The shorts from before are all gone now. activating one, only activates one. Opto error vanishes when unplugging the thing board cable.

Do ALL of the mechanical switches that you can.

Save the optos for later, AFTER you finish the mechanical switches completely.

Unplug the opto cable for now.

Its best to break the job into sections.

#4540 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

If they are not hooked up, how can they be working?

the aforementioned touching/jumping test. this is how I identified what was what when my color blind free guy was not around.

as is hooked up now, this is what is working in blue. I will disconnect everything except cousin it (pain in the ass to get too)..and start fresh once more.

CpWz_006 (resized).jpgCpWz_006 (resized).jpg
#4541 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

the aforementioned touching/jumping test. this is how I identified what was what when my color blind free guy was not around.
as is hooked up now, this is what is working in blue. I will disconnect everything except cousin it (pain in the ass to get too)..and start fresh once more.[quoted image]

If its working with no errors, I would leave it as being finished, solder it in, and clean up my work.

Continue and solder known good connections.

Leave nothing "hooked up", solder everything as you go.

The idea is to always move forward, solder as you go, dont run around in circles.

#4542 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

this is how I identified what was what when my color blind free guy was not around.

I am also color blind.

I can recognize "what is what" even though I might not be able to tell you exactly what the colors are.

Though I might see different colors than someone else, I can absolutely see the differences and match up row and column colors.

Since the colors on the wires are often faded or just partially in the spectrum, I have found very LITTLE help from non color blind people.

Basically since the colors vary WIDELY, it doesnt matter if you are color blind or not.

I have NOT been hindered at all by my color blindness in 55 years of electronics.

#4543 4 months ago

OK. right now, everything is disconnected minus G-R, the Chair Kickout, and Cousin it.

One other thing I noticed. hitting Chair Kickout does not cause the chair kickout to happen.
despite the solenoid working perfectly in the test menu. also, now lower jet reads as ticket opto for some reason :/
why am I thinking it might be a board/chip problem somewhere?

#4544 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

OK. right now, everything is disconnected minus G-R, the Chair Kickout, and Cousin it.
One other thing I noticed. hitting Chair Kickout does not cause the chair kickout to happen.
despite the solenoid working perfectly in the test menu. also, now lower jet reads as ticket opto for some reason :/
why am I thinking it might be a board/chip problem somewhere?

If ANYTHING is registering while its not even attached, you have a wiring fault or reversed diode.

Bad wiring and backwards or missing diodes FOOL the computer.

#4545 4 months ago

God, watching this is almost like watching Oak Island, only Shredder565 is actually close to his goal!

You're so close now, this is getting intense.

#4546 4 months ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

God, watching this is almost like watching Oak Island, only Shredder565 is actually close to his goal!
You're so close now, this is getting intense.

If I can just get these switches finished.... it's only a matter of hooking up the thing motor, and putting on his case. then, finishing the top side. 95% done once switches get sorted. and was so close to THAT before this gremlin popped up....sigh.

the only switches hooked up now are G/R/CousinIt/OutHole/Center Upper Trough/and Chair. all those register properly in T.1 when button is pushed and do not cause any more shorts..The diodes are re straightened on these, not bent anymore. and wire is going to proper lug with diode facing proper way.

the rest of the wires are currently hooked up like this, NOT touching themselves, OR anything metal. So, for example, when I cross the lower jet wires for a second in the T1 test to see if they work, it shows up as ticket opto now. and, as I recall, that one isn't even used.

I don't want to hook the other wires working back up, just in case they stop working again later :/. it would be nice to get everything back to the way it was before I Started, with all wires working with the jumper test and then go back to hooking it up switch by switch.

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#4547 4 months ago

Reading through this thread should be mandatory for anyone new working on a game… including those newly onboard at Stern it seems based on soldering concerns on some of the games coming off the new lines.

Hang in there OP. If building a pinball machine was easy everyone would be doing it and they would be dirt cheap.

I came into my pinball/arcade repairs after many years in my youth racing R/C cars and having that experience with an iron in my hands certainly paid dividends. By the time I started doing delicate work on boards, I already knew the basics.

My proudest soldering work was when a friend got mod chips for the Wii and was coming over to have me put them on our consoles. I told him I could do it; but, since he just got them in and showed me the instructions - where they were going was going to need some really fine gauge wire. He then stripped a Cat5 cable and wanted me to use it. I told him it was too stiff (not braided) and I was worried about the pads lifting if I needed to move them to get the wires to fit. So, I tired it. On mine. Sure enough, as I was trying to get all the wires tucked back into the case, one pinched and pulled the contact pad. The next morning, I went out to Fry’s to get some angel hair wire as the trace was going to a micro IC in the drive. Using my magnifier, I tinned the appropriate leg and soldered the lead to it. To this day, that Wii is working flawlessly.

Keep at it OP and you’ll eventually have no issues with soldering.

BTW - I still hate soldering leads on LED strips with their stupid pads. The soldering isn’t horrible; but, cutting the pad on the neon rope still isn’t perfect as it seems to drift from the external mark the closer you get to the inner loops on a spool.

#4548 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

If I can just get these switches finished.... it's only a matter of hooking up the thing motor, and putting on his case. then, finishing the top side. 95% done once switches get sorted. and was so close to THAT before this gremlin popped up....sigh.
the only switches hooked up now are G/R/CousinIt/OutHole/Center Upper Trough/and Chair. all those register properly in T.1 when button is pushed and do not cause any more shorts..The diodes are re straightened on these, not bent anymore. and wire is going to proper lug with diode facing proper way.
the rest of the wires are currently hooked up like this, NOT touching themselves, OR anything metal. So, for example, when I cross the lower jet wires for a second in the T1 test to see if they work, it shows up as ticket opto now. and, as I recall, that one isn't even used.
I don't want to hook the other wires working back up, just in case they stop working again later :/. it would be nice to get everything back to the way it was before I Started, with all wires working with the jumper test and then go back to hooking it up switch by switch.[quoted image]

Is the chair kickout working?

You say the lower jet shows up as ticket opto, is it just the ticket opto that's also firing or is it multiple switches?

Very hard to help you troubleshoot when you haven't learned how the switch matrix works. I'm not saying that to attack you but rather to emphasize that copying other's work will only get you so far. If you don't understand how and why the diodes and switches are wired you will continue to run into problems.

I'm worried you could have blown a switch matrix IC by shorting to solenoid voltage when you did the slingshot switches as that's when you mentioned the problems starting.

#4549 4 months ago
Quoted from frisbez:

Is the chair kickout working?
You say the lower jet shows up as ticket opto, is it just the ticket opto that's also firing or is it multiple switches?
Very hard to help you troubleshoot when you haven't learned how the switch matrix works. I'm not saying that to attack you but rather to emphasize that copying other's work will only get you so far. If you don't understand how and why the diodes and switches are wired you will continue to run into problems.
I'm worried you could have blown a switch matrix IC by shorting to solenoid voltage when you did the slingshot switches as that's when you mentioned the problems starting.

Diagrams and all the information gets confusing to me. If it's easily laid out, I could understand it easier. following photos may not be accurate, but it's easier to figure out and piece together.

As for the question above:
Yes, it's just the ticket opto that lights up and nothing else. So far, every one I've 'jump tested' shows just the two wires crossed, and nothing else showing up. some just don't work when jumped, or have the wrong label. for instance, lower jet reads as ticket opto, and lower left loop reads as upper right loop.

As for the chair kickout:
the Switch works in T1. but does not activate the solenoid when it does. The Solenoids ALL still work when in T4 mode.

#4550 4 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

As for the question above:
Yes, it's just the ticket opto that lights up and nothing else. So far, every one I've 'jump tested' shows just the two wires crossed, and nothing else showing up. some just don't work when jumped, or have the wrong label. for instance, lower jet reads as ticket opto, and lower left loop reads as upper right loop.

Quoted from jedimastermatt:

Reading through this thread should be mandatory for anyone new working on a game… including those newly onboard at Stern it seems based on soldering concerns on some of the games coming off the new lines.
Hang in there OP. If building a pinball machine was easy everyone would be doing it and they would be dirt cheap.
I came into my pinball/arcade repairs after many years in my youth racing R/C cars and having that experience with an iron in my hands certainly paid dividends. By the time I started doing delicate work on boards, I already knew the basics.
My proudest soldering work was when a friend got mod chips for the Wii and was coming over to have me put them on our consoles. I told him I could do it; but, since he just got them in and showed me the instructions - where they were going was going to need some really fine gauge wire. He then stripped a Cat5 cable and wanted me to use it. I told him it was too stiff (not braided) and I was worried about the pads lifting if I needed to move them to get the wires to fit. So, I tired it. On mine. Sure enough, as I was trying to get all the wires tucked back into the case, one pinched and pulled the contact pad. The next morning, I went out to Fry’s to get some angel hair wire as the trace was going to a micro IC in the drive. Using my magnifier, I tinned the appropriate leg and soldered the lead to it. To this day, that Wii is working flawlessly.
Keep at it OP and you’ll eventually have no issues with soldering.
BTW - I still hate soldering leads on LED strips with their stupid pads. The soldering isn’t horrible; but, cutting the pad on the neon rope still isn’t perfect as it seems to drift from the external mark the closer you get to the inner loops on a spool.

I was toying around with modding my switch .....but apart from the mod kids not being available, doubted I could do the small scale soldering properly.

As far as stern goes...most companies these days do not hire qualified professionals.. .for reasons I won't get into here, but you can take guesses....my guess is, if they are newer employees/recent college 'graduates', they are not suited for the job most likely..

everything was going flawlessly.. no errors, bugs, or shorts......got to the sling shots, and then...not. ugh. new it wouldn't go that smoothly.

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