For the colored Thing washer I used a clear 1" Fender Washer that you can get at any of the pinball supply vendors. I drilled it out with a step bit so that the core would fit through it. I painted the back of it tan. 50 cents.
https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html

Fuses at Pinball Life are 59 cents each and you know they aren't counterfeit:
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-14-slow-blow-fuses.html

Order standard stuff from PBL, order the hard to find and game specific stuff from Marco.

There's a wire that knocks the ball into the Thing hole that I did not see on your game in your pics. Not sure how well it may work without it, but you may want to install it. It is a simple 90 degree bend. You can see it in one of Wally's pics. There are dimples or white dots on the PF where it is installed. You'll probably need to drill holes for it.

taf wire (resized).jpg

Not trying to be a negative Nancy, but is powercoating really necessary? By the time you put the decals on and the apron cards in place, there is very little you can see of the apron's paint. And once it is under glass and in dim light, you won't notice.

I sanded mine, primed it, and painted it with semi gloss black spray paint. Nobody has or ever would give it a second look or question its appearance. It looks great.

There's a lot of things posted here and on any enthusiast forums that are the "correct" way to do something. I don't even argue them because I'd get blasted even though I have strong evidence to back up what I'm saying that is contrary to the conventional wisdom.

Powder coating may the the "right" way to do it on a game that is on location and gets a thousand plays a month. It will hold up better to the ball rolling on the front edge and it will take longer to wear a line on the apron. But that's not the case here.

Despite what everyone may say is right, think about it on your own and come to your own decision. In the end, it is your money. Spend it as you please.

Do you realize you are leaving the protective plastic film on all your plastics? If you are trying to protect them during the top assembly process I understand, but it might be a PITA to remove it later in some areas.

Disregard, didn't realize the trough ball gate was already being discussed.

Here's mine. I duplicated what was done at the factory.

The bare wire is for the bulbs that flash. You don't need to use bare wire, you can use insulated. I did it just to duplicate what was there as I wanted my game to look like the original, and to make it easier to see which bulbs were supposed to flash.

P1010108 (Large) (resized).JPG

If you want a higher resolution photo, let me know. I cut the size down on the one I posted.

I'm not sure what you mean. They are all stapled bayonet sockets being held in by staples. It is hard to see at the resolution I posted and the solder covers some of them up.

Another note, to make it clear, mine that I posted is a duplicate of the factory. Only difference is it doesn't have the 555 IDC sockets that you can't get any more. The routing of the wires, the wire colors, even the zip ties are how it was done from the factory.

Use bamboo skewers instead of toothpicks. The skewers you can buy for shish kebab in the grocery store. The are fibrous and kind of split and grab the wood and screw really well. And they are large enough to fill a pretty big hole. You can split them down smaller for smaller holes. I find that I don't have to use wood glue unless it is a really bad situation.

That little "flipper board" supplies power for the upper flippers AND the magnets.

Edit: In hindsight, my post was not necessary, probably confusing, and I don't think will help the current issue.

I kind of hate to mention this as it means more holes in the PF. But the coil and bracket need to be closer to the pivot. When the plunger is fully extended into the coil the link should be closer to straight up and down, not at an angle as in your pic. See attached photo for an idea of positioning and how close.

IMG_1033 - Copy (resized).jpeg

This thread is not for people that suffer from trypophobia.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trypophobia