Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992Quoted from rsos1:What made you end up going with virtual pin?
I have read virtuapin does great work but does take a long time. I haven't seen any pictures of kirk's work, no website to order from, and if you google
"kirk weaver pinball" nothing great comes up.
Just stumbled on this and am always impressed with these .As for the side rails ,have you given thought of the sparkle green on the sides with a black top to cover the end grain best you can ? Just throwing it out there 
Quoted from Kkoss24:Just stumbled on this and am always impressed with these .As for the side rails ,have you given thought of the sparkle green on the sides with a black top to cover the end grain best you can ? Just throwing it out there
I can’t decide. I do have a lot of overpour from cars I save and I was thinking about doing the apron and rails a nissan color I like called midnight purple.
I contemplated flaking out the cab and throwing a dark purple candy on it, then having custom decals cut. The decals end up being almost the same price as radcals though. I wish I could find vector files for the cab artwork, I want to make stencils for the lightning and print the rest.
Quoted from orangegsx:I can’t decide. I do have a lot of overpour from cars I save and I was thinking about doing the apron and rails a nissan color I like called midnight purple.
[quoted image]
I contemplated flaking out the cab and throwing a dark purple candy on it, then having custom decals cut. The decals end up being almost the same price as radcals though. I wish I could find vector files for the cab artwork, I want to make stencils for the lightning and print the rest.
That purple looks like it will go very well and no better feeling than using something that’s been laying around .Real nice job on that clear .I’ll be following this from here on .Best to you .
Quoted from orangegsx:I can’t decide. I do have a lot of overpour from cars I save and I was thinking about doing the apron and rails a nissan color I like called midnight purple.
[quoted image]
I contemplated flaking out the cab and throwing a dark purple candy on it, then having custom decals cut. The decals end up being almost the same price as radcals though. I wish I could find vector files for the cab artwork, I want to make stencils for the lightning and print the rest.
Also ,I think your better off going with your purple flake/decal look over the rad cals .This is Your project and should be as custom as possible .Those prints you did with the clear resin look insane !
Quoted from orangegsx:I have read virtuapin does great work but does take a long time. I haven't seen any pictures of kirk's work, no website to order from, and if you google
"kirk weaver pinball" nothing great comes up.
I would be interested to hear more about the pro's of Kirk Weaver? Maybe over PM if that is more appropriate (I dont want to be controversial in this awesome build thread).
I have heard Virtuapin does good work but there are still several finishing steps like holes that need to be drilled. Would be curious to hear more from people with experience. Thank you!
Quoted from Elicash:I would be interested to hear more about the pro's of Kirk Weaver? Maybe over PM if that is more appropriate (I dont want to be controversial in this awesome build thread).
I have heard Virtuapin does good work but there are still several finishing steps like holes that need to be drilled. Would be curious to hear more from people with experience. Thank you!
Drilling your own holes is much preferred.
Slight differences in cabinets have to be considered especially when using after market playfields and parts.
There are almost no NOS parts, the playfields have to be fitted.
Get a complete cab from Paul, they are near perfect.
Buying a complete silkscreened and decaled cabinet from Paul is cheaper than doing it yourself unless you are a carpenter and have the time and tools.
If you need side rails.......
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-rails-reproduction-rails
Quoted from orangegsx:I wish GPE was still open.
Me too.
I get most stuff from Newark now.
Low prices and very fast shipping.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Me too.
I get most stuff from Newark now.
Low prices and very fast shipping.
https://www.newark.com/multicomp-pro/1n4004/diode-standard-recovery-1a-400v/dp/65W8775?MER=sy-me-pd-mi-alte
I have a ton of 4004s, the boards are labeled for 4007s though. I suppose they can be substituted.
Quoted from orangegsx:I have a ton of 4004s, the boards are labeled for 4007s though. I suppose they can be substituted.
They are the same.
4004 is 400v
4007 is 1000v
So with the apron being purple, what are you doing for the artwork on it? I imagine the standard decals sold everywhere won't work so well because of their thick black edges and large filled in areas.
Quoted from pacman11:Looks great! Virtuapin takes forever to make a cabinet, I recommend Kirk Weaver in Ohio. A friend of mine said he waited 2yrs for a cabinet and still never got it.
No way Paul took 2 years to build a cabinet unless maybe it was early in his building days. I worked with him this year it did take 7 months but came out beautiful. if you plan around it when doing a restoration that is a very manageable time frame. Kirk is much faster but also been told there are a lot of corrections that need to be done and much more prep work before putting decals on. That’s why HEPs uses Kirk because he is fast and Chris will make all the necessary corrections himself bev wise he has the skillset to do it. With Paul you are getting a perfectly built cabinet that you have to do nothing with.
Quoted from orangegsx:I have read virtuapin does great work but does take a long time. I haven't seen any pictures of kirk's work, no website to order from, and if you google
"kirk weaver pinball" nothing great comes up.
Trust me go with Paul I am very happy with my cabinet. Bryan Kelly uses him all the time and if you know him or read any of his posts you know he is very particular so that should tell you something right there. To my knowledge Kirk’s only pro is he can pump out a cabinet relatively fast but you will spend time correcting it
Here is a good example of a Kirk Weaver Bally WPC89 cabinet. Yes you have to put some woodfiller in the edges and corners. then you have to sand it finely smooth, if you are a perfectionist. Next you have to apply a high fill primer and sand it again. Then paint it with several coats of final color. Lastly Apply the decal. Pictures of my Doctor Who build. I am very happy with the quality.
Cab2 (resized).jpgCab3 (resized).jpgCab4 (resized).jpgCab5 (resized).jpgDSCF2831 (resized).JPGQuoted from mmr61184:Trust me go with Paul I am very happy with my cabinet. Bryan Kelly uses him all the time and if you know him or read any of his posts you know he is very particular so that should tell you something right there. To my knowledge Kirk’s only pro is he can pump out a cabinet relatively fast but you will spend time correcting it
Exactly. If you have the tools, space and the ability to finish the cabinet yourself, go with Kirk.
If you want one already finished, they don't come any nicer than Pauls.
Quoted from Miguel351:So with the apron being purple, what are you doing for the artwork on it? I imagine the standard decals sold everywhere won't work so well because of their thick black edges and large filled in areas.
I was given a good vector file for the apron artwork. Not sure what colors I am going to go with yet but I plan on printing them without the black border. Maybe silver and gold. Matte black and charcoal might be cool too.
Quoted from orangegsx:I was given a good vector file for the apron artwork. Not sure what colors I am going to go with yet but I plan on printing them without the black border. Maybe silver and gold. Matte black and charcoal might be cool too.
On this it might be best to print on dry or low heat tranfer medium.
Several people are using this method now.
Im seeing a possible future where dry or heat transfer will be available for complete playfield art then clear over it.
Went and picked up my parts at work. I didn’t want to bake the wood rails so I gave them some extra time to cure. It’s a shame this will never be in the sun!
While at work I spent a few hours on my other little project.
IMG_7390 (resized).jpeg
I’m happy with how this looks. I had 10 different ideas for colors for these parts, I’m so indecisive though, just have to pick something and move forward.
IMG_7393 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from orangegsx:Little progress tonight, shooter gate installed, shooter ramp flap riveted on and installed.
[quoted image]
Opto and interrupter installed on the thing and bolted the assembly on. Eject assembly built and installed.
[quoted image]
I would either reposition that ramp flap or sand down the edge so that its not hitting the flat-rail.
"as-is" there is a slight buckle in the center of it.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I would either reposition that ramp flap or sand down the edge so that its not hitting the flat-rail.
"as-is" there is a slight buckle in the center of it.
Got it, I think one screw was a bit loose making it do that. Tightened the other one slightly and it straightened out.
Planned on getting the diverter done tonight but marcos didn’t send me a coil stop.
IMG_7423 (resized).jpegIf I can make a suggestion......insulate the three stand-up targets in front of the swamp from touching anything. They could touch the trough underneath and give you a switch error. This can especially happen if you put a Cliffy swamp protector on and it's touching the targets.
Great thread and awesome work! What PCBs are you using for the back box? Going original or reproduction?
Quoted from ibis:If I can make a suggestion......insulate the three stand-up targets in front of the swamp from touching anything. They could touch the trough underneath and give you a switch error. This can especially happen if you put a Cliffy swamp protector on and it's touching the targets.
That makes sense, thanks for the tip. I will put something on there for sure.
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Great thread and awesome work! What PCBs are you using for the back box? Going original or reproduction?
Thank you. I have set of boards that were gone through by Chris Hibbler. I am missing a sound board still though. If nothing cheap pops up for sale soon I will probably buy a bare board and build one myself.
Quoted from orangegsx:That makes sense, thanks for the tip. I will put something on there for sure.
Thank you. I have set of boards that were gone through by Chris Hibbler. I am missing a sound board still though. If nothing cheap pops up for sale soon I will probably buy a bare board and build one myself.
If you need a bare board (or a populated one), DumbAss is highly recommended. I used him for a WH2O build
Enjoying your thread!
Quoted from MiniPinHead:If you need a bare board (or a populated one), DumbAss is highly recommended. I used him for a WH2O build
Enjoying your thread!
I second that! I put together a WPB89 driver board and absolutely loved doing it! He also makes them for you too but I think the bare board(with a BOM) is a great way to learn more about solder work and PCB's.
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