(Topic ID: 311865)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
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Quoted from orangegsx:Started screwing stuff on last night. Getting a feel for how everything fits together. Still waiting on diodes or I would have installed them before the controlled lights and switches. Also I think I might weld up a rotisserie this week.
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The Rotisserie is pretty mandatory to work on both sides at the same time.
I find it better to put all the posts and flatrails in before doing the bottom side.
It seems easier for me somehow and all the t-nuts are in place. This requires some going back and forth from top to bottom.
Its also really helpful when installing the wiring to be able to plug into the game to test as you go.
I pretty much always get the cabinet up and running before I tackle the playfield re-assembly.
Have you thought about putting in the opto board flipper switches instead of the old mechanical ones in the cabinet?
I do it and its really nice.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The Rotisserie is pretty mandatory to work on both sides at the same time.
I find it better to put all the posts and flatrails in before doing the bottom side.
It seems easier for me somehow and all the t-nuts are in place. This requires some going back and forth from top to bottom.
Its also really helpful when installing the wiring to be able to plug into the game to test as you go.
I pretty much always get the cabinet up and running before I tackle the playfield re-assembly.
Have you thought about putting in the opto board flipper switches instead of the old mechanical ones in the cabinet?
I do it and its really nice.
I got the wrong 8-32 t nuts so will have to make another trip to menards to get the three prongs. Still missing a lot from the top side too. Don’t have most of the posts yet.
I have thought about the opto flipper switches. I like the way they feel on my jackbot, but I also like being able to cradle with the main flippers and hit jackpots with the upper on my whirlwind. So kinda leaning towards the old style. If thats even how it would work with this system I’m not sure.
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I wasn’t planning on doing a rotisserie but I will be doing more back and forth than I thought so. No biggie I’ll just make one.
Quoted from orangegsx:I got the wrong 8-32 t nuts so will have to make another trip to menards to get the three prongs. Still missing a lot from the top side too. Don’t have most of the posts yet.
I have thought about the opto flipper switches. I like the way they feel on my jackbot, but I also like being able to cradle with the main flippers and hit jackpots with the upper on my whirlwind. So kinda leaning towards the old style. If thats even how it would work with this system I’m not sure.
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I wasn’t planning on doing a rotisserie but I will be doing more back and forth than I thought so. No biggie I’ll just make one.
I have no problem staging the flippers with the opto boards, they work perfectly.
In fact is a bit more consistent and doesnt take hours of testing to get them right.
Quoted from orangegsx:I wasn’t planning on doing a rotisserie but I will be doing more back and forth than I thought so. No biggie I’ll just make one.
The "quick and dirty" one made out of pipe is pretty inexpensive to make and only takes a couple hours to put it in service.
I made a couple of them aways back when they were like $50 to build.
I didnt bother painting them as I live in a desert and moisture isnt a problem.
But I did wash the pipes and fittings all off with lacquer thinner.
Home depot cut and threaded the pipes for free (or forgot to charge me?)
Wiener Neustadt
Quoted from orangegsx:Testing out a new tool I have no idea how to use.
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Yesterday finished buffing some dirt nibs on the playfield. I’m not going to flat sand and buff the whole thing, I have a tendency to mess with things util they are perfect, or I ruin them. I’m happy with it.
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Don`t even know what tool it is- any hints?
Quoted from harig:Don`t even know what tool it is- any hints?
3d printer. Should be useful, so far all my prints beside a test print have failed though haha.
Got my first print to work. Need to measure one of these and make sure this is the right size. I want to make pretty much everything out of this smoked clear resin. Star posts, thing box, bookcase cover…..
339A7AD7-7082-4BEC-B60E-E7F402A426B3 (resized).jpegA3D941D1-F584-4E76-8A10-BEF39E3D59DA (resized).jpegQuoted from orangegsx:Got my first print to work. Need to measure one of these and make sure this is the right size. I want to make pretty much everything out of this smoked clear resin. Star posts, thing box, bookcase cover…..
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That looks great! What printer did you get?
Quoted from pinballinreno:That looks great! What printer did you get?
I found an elegoo mars pro for 100$. Couldn’t pass that up.
I know nothing about these, but should be pretty fun either way haha
E8ACC855-870C-4128-9978-27FADB675C44 (resized).jpegQuoted from orangegsx:I found an elegoo mars pro for 100$. Couldn’t pass that up.
I know nothing about these, but should be pretty fun either way haha[quoted image]
$100 wtf, the resin probably cost more than that lol? Great deal.
Quoted from russdx:$100 wtf, the resin probably cost more than that lol? Great deal.
The smoky black I bought was only like 23$ for 500g, not too bad. They make stuff that is cheaper too.
Tonight just laying a few more things out and test fitting. Trying to get a list of stuff I missed and stuff that will hold me up. Forgot to order the teeny hardware to hold some of the switches, and didn’t order enough targets. Woops
68B8B594-1D65-4A46-8769-92DAD9A14514 (resized).jpegQuoted from orangegsx:Well I ordered a ball trough. All the parts match from the taf and bk2k manuals but the base plate. Hopefully will work or just need to be trimmed. *fingers crossed
The complete assembly has the same part number, thought that was odd.
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I totally understand your post. I bought a new ball trough as well as two used ones for my rebuild. All 3 different baseplates. What they had in common was the two white switch locations. and wires. One had a mount for the third switch. The other two, you mount the 3rd switch to the playfield. One base was huge.
San Jose, CA
Quoted from Tophervette:I totally understand your post. I bought a new ball trough as well as two used ones for my rebuild. All 3 different baseplates. What they had in common was the two white switch locations. and wires. One had a mount for the third switch. The other two, you mount the 3rd switch to the playfield. One base was huge.
Well that gives me hope at least. Sweet
Quoted from orangedude71:orangegsx
im doing a playfield swap right now. IM assuming you are using the parts list commonly available on the interwebs. Did you notice the counts on the BOM for Tee nuts are a long way off from the required qty for the playfield
I’m actually just basing it all off of the manual. The t nuts I bought in bulk at menards. Turned out to be cheaper per and will have extra if I need them.
the BOM on the manual shows a total of 24 8-32 3/8 Tee nuts but i count closer to 22 of them plus a bunch of 8-32 9/32 Tee nuts which are not accounted for. But no advanced math could make the totals work.. So im just duplicating what is on the old playfield
I found that the T-nuts from my local hardware store (Lowes and Home Depot) had a larger diameter than the ones on my Bally 1992 PF and Mini-PF. I bought my smaller diameter ones from Marcos.
Quoted from orangedude71:orangegsx
im doing a playfield swap right now. IM assuming you are using the parts list commonly available on the interwebs. Did you notice the counts on the BOM for Tee nuts are a long way off from the required qty for the playfield
Theres a ton of them in the speaker panel
3d printed some posts today. Need a little work to be perfect but shouldn’t be hard. I wanted a tinted clear post and couldn’t find anything. I’ll print a bunch of these and throw a little clear on them to get the gloss back.
Also they seem just as strong as the oem posts.
73D20D71-B2C3-4AD8-96F8-23C92237D42A (resized).jpeg
After cleaning/curing
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Quoted from orangegsx:3d printed some posts today. Need a little work to be perfect but shouldn’t be hard. I wanted a tinted clear post and couldn’t find anything. I’ll print a bunch of these and throw a little clear on them to get the gloss back.
Also they seem just as strong as the oem posts.
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After cleaning/curing
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Those look great!
Quoted from orangegsx:3d printed some posts today. Need a little work to be perfect but shouldn’t be hard. I wanted a tinted clear post and couldn’t find anything. I’ll print a bunch of these and throw a little clear on them to get the gloss back.
Also they seem just as strong as the oem posts.
[quoted image]
After cleaning/curing
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Should definitely look great on your game. Well done sir.
Got some time to work on pinball tonight. Nothing too crazy but started getting the diodes on everything.E2A44B90-B3D7-46D5-A61C-BADAC5273F08 (resized).jpeg
Also my curing machine for 3d prints showed up. Got some posts done, will have festers electric chair printing tonight.
59CFB09A-9CA1-475A-8606-F969B301CAB4 (resized).jpegAF5A2547-D248-45DC-B917-0578F2620C71 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from orangegsx:Got some time to work on pinball tonight. Nothing too crazy but started getting the diodes on everything.[quoted image]
Also my curing machine for 3d prints showed up. Got some posts done, will have festers electric chair printing tonight.
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Curing machine?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Curing machine?
I’m using a UV resin printer. It hardens the resin layer by layer to print the object, but it doesn’t fully harden the resin. So you use a wash and cure machine to wash the parts of leftover liquid resin and then it shines a uv light on it and rotates the part so it fully cures.
8921EBDD-3187-419B-81F9-D2FBB2E1AAAB (resized).jpeg
This is what they look like right out of the printer. Still needing washing and curing.
Quoted from orangegsx:I’m using a UV resin printer. It hardens the resin layer by layer to print the object, but it doesn’t fully harden the resin. So you use a wash and cure machine to wash the parts of leftover liquid resin and then it shines a uv light on it and rotates the part so it fully cures.
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This is what they look like right out of the printer. Still needing washing and curing.
Really interesting. The parts look great.
Your prints look great! What are your thoughts on the fumes associated with resin printing? I've done a bit of PLA printing, and saw recently that Micro Center has been running a similar $99 dollar deal on an entry level resin printer. I almost jumped on it, then saw warnings about the fumes and pumped the brakes. I like the idea of smoother prints offered by resin printing.
Quoted from aamauzy:Your prints look great! What are your thoughts on the fumes associated with resin printing? I've done a bit of PLA printing, and saw recently that Micro Center has been running a similar $99 dollar deal on an entry level resin printer. I almost jumped on it, then saw warnings about the fumes and pumped the brakes. I like the idea of smoother prints offered by resin printing.
I haven’t been able to smell since november 2019 so it had been no issue for me lol. I had it in the basement but moved it to the garage. My wife never complained about the smell. This one has a little carbon filter on it to keep the fumes down. I don’t think the smell is as bad as people say, but you probably wouldn’t want it sitting next to your couch.
Quoted from orangegsx:Couple parts showed up today. I was trying to only focus on parts to finish the bottom of the playfield but got these used for a deal so I had to jump on it. Speaker panel will buff up nicely and probably repaint and decal the apron.
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I say powder coat it locally with standard black that they have in stock with 65% sheen.
Get the treasure cove decals or have Bryan_Kelly direct print it.
Have the powdercoater look at it and match it up.
My powdercoater does it for $25 if I get all the parts done at the same time.
All 6 pieces cost me around $125
Buffing out an original speaker plastic is WAY better than buying a sad repro...
1 week later
Maybe I’m putting too much thought into this but it is going to be on this stand for quite a while and I don’t want it to warp. I wanted the same forces on the wood as if it was in the cabinet. So I made it mount at the points it does normally.
Quoted from ryanbrooks:Put the rails on the PF and it’s much less likely to warp. That’s part of why they’re there.
That’s my next order of business. Part of the reason I built the stand this way too.
Quoted from ryanbrooks:Put the rails on the playfield so it’s much less likely to warp.
I'd find it funny if it does. Probably because I have a warped sense of humor.
2 weeks later
2 weeks later
Quoted from rsos1:Where did you buy your plastic set from?
They are hard to find, I eventually found a set, close to $200.
Quoted from rsos1:Where did you buy your plastic set from?
I got the plastics from planetary pinball
3 weeks later
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:orangegsx any updates? Been a month!
oh yeah, just been tinkering here and there no huge visual updates. Working on getting a smoked ramp at the moment. Also been working on the rails, probably putting too much work into something that won't be seen 
1 month later
Welp, I was determined to get a smoked ramp and it's just not going to happen I guess. Ordered a clear ramp today. I was kind of stuck on this so I can at least move forward again. LETS GO!
Also my source for a really affordable set of under playfield light boards is ghosting me, so if anyone has a line on a set or can make them please PM me. thanks!
Well, all is not lost on the smoked ramp. Krylon makes a fantastic line of translucent paint that works very well on plastic, and I have firsthand experience on that. It's in their Stained Glass line of paints and they have a Smoked Gray color. You could easily paint the underside of the ramp and you'd be good to go. Here's a link to see the info on it:
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K09037007-Stained-Glass-Aerosol/dp/B07H438FWB
I don't know why it's so expensive there. They sell the stained glass line of paints at Lowe's all day long so you might want to check yours if you have one nearby, but the price might mean that this particular color is discontinued. I know Menards sell Krylon, too, but don't know if they've got the Stained Glass line. Ace Hardware, WalMart, and Hobby Lobby also sell Krylon. Either way, you can get the item number and information off the Amazon page and do some Googling to see if you can find it for a more normal price of around $5/can. I may go hit my local stores to see if I can pick up a can, too, for when I restore my game(seeing as if nobody's making the smoke ramps now, they probably won't be making them in the future).
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