(Topic ID: 311865)

Scratch built Addams Family - Bob’s edition

By orangegsx

2 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 181 posts
  • 38 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by ibis
  • Topic is favorited by 57 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_7423 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7415 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7413 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7398 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7397 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7390 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7392 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7393 (resized).jpeg
DSCF2831 (resized).JPG
Cab5 (resized).jpg
Cab4 (resized).jpg
Cab2 (resized).jpg
Cab3 (resized).jpg
72323162981__81B3D403-B1E6-495D-930B-B26C5E196481 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7379 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7247 (resized).jpeg

There are 181 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 4.
15
#1 2 years ago

I’m just going to build one….

I’ve been obsessed with the game ever since I played it at the local pizza joint our family would frequent in the 90s. I have always wanted one but the right deal never comes or the price just keeps skyrocketing. I have a lineup I’m happy with but I still have a hole in my soul for addams family.

I was inspired by wallybgood’s builds years ago and have watched enough high end pins episodes that I feel like I am comfortable building one now. I work at a body shop and have access to a lot of the tools I will need, I do all the mechanical and electrical work here and have a lot of experience with metal fab so I feel I have a good amount of the skills to do this.

I ordered a mirco dark green glitter playfield and will be starting from there. I want to build the bottom side first and then start harness work and then complete the topside. I want to have a complete playfield ready to drop in before I move on. On the last build thread the big concern was the harness. That doesn’t really scare me. I have been saving wire harnesses from cars for about 3 years and will be scavenging as many wire colors as I can and will have to just order the stuff that can’t be found around the shop.

I wasn’t going to start this thread until I got a little farther but I guess here it is. It’s going to be a slow process but it should be fun. If you have any tips or are willing to sell parts please post or pm me.

Here we go!
A9264573-AE0F-4FED-A7DE-41A212F4C511 (resized).jpegA9264573-AE0F-4FED-A7DE-41A212F4C511 (resized).jpeg

Forgot to add, my friend has a machine I can peek at for reference. My son loved it too so that will be extra motivation.

A4A500DC-9814-4BEA-8339-3F8B38C4B7FC (resized).jpegA4A500DC-9814-4BEA-8339-3F8B38C4B7FC (resized).jpeg

#2 2 years ago

That's awesome. Look forward to seeing the progress.

#3 2 years ago

Looking forward to the progression.

#4 2 years ago

Stripped down a harness for a 2019 ford mustang last night.
DB93D409-2D16-4978-936E-3D816A918341 (resized).jpegDB93D409-2D16-4978-936E-3D816A918341 (resized).jpeg

Harvested some good lengths of 22awg wire. 33 different colors that are on my list and about 8 colors not used. Surprised there isn’t any white tracers used on this game.

DE2D26AE-97B5-4B22-8027-5EEECB64A130 (resized).jpegDE2D26AE-97B5-4B22-8027-5EEECB64A130 (resized).jpeg

#5 2 years ago

Still waiting on the playfield, sent cad files to sendcutsend to get all the ball guides cut. I do want to get the PF here first before I get more parts coming.

Did some digging in my spare bins, I’ll have to double check but I think the bumper parts and a couple coil brackets should be the same. I’ll tumble those and see how they come out.

DAFD93D7-4052-4DD3-84F5-4D336D91BAC5 (resized).jpegDAFD93D7-4052-4DD3-84F5-4D336D91BAC5 (resized).jpeg

#6 2 years ago

Started to make some playfield side rails tonight. I had some figured maple laying around I decided to use.

9CF17982-85E9-4DDA-8B16-36254FA27904 (resized).jpeg9CF17982-85E9-4DDA-8B16-36254FA27904 (resized).jpegI cannot decide if I should stain them smoke/dark or purple. Then it will be clear coated gloss I think maybe a dark deep purple might be the way to go. Accent the purple on the game a bit.
60C074F4-3122-4ACD-BA89-91BCFA0B01C1 (resized).jpeg60C074F4-3122-4ACD-BA89-91BCFA0B01C1 (resized).jpeg44F9B764-F41D-4400-8176-723555B33C6F (resized).jpeg44F9B764-F41D-4400-8176-723555B33C6F (resized).jpeg

#7 2 years ago

Good luck on this considerable undertaking. I commend you. Are you buying a new cabinet from virtuapin, or making that as well?

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:

Good luck on this considerable undertaking. I commend you. Are you buying a new cabinet from virtuapin, or making that as well?

Thank you! I have a buddy with a cnc I am hoping I can convince to cut one for me. If not I will make a cab and use my jackbot as a template. Unless a used cabinet comes up semi locally I could restore.

#9 2 years ago

I would ask a good pinball friend to borrow one for reference... Will make it a lot easier on yourself.

#10 2 years ago

This is crazy and I love it. Following for sure!

#11 2 years ago

Agree with snyper2099, having built a cab from scratch a few years back. Just when you think you have made all the proper cuts, have all the holes routed, channels cut for the playfield glass inserts, etc. you will mostly likely find something that you missed. Though you won't know until your going back together again.

I built the one pictured in the garage using basic carpentry tools, power saw, router w/stand, drill, drill press, etc. Made a router table out of couple of saw horses and a sheet of 3/4" plywood, using an edge clamp for the straight cuts for both the saw and router.

You're probably aware, but make sure to find Cabinet grade plywood, preferably the 5 ply / layers variety in true 3/4 inch. Won't be cheap, but it will save you a ton of hassle later when you go to finish the cabinet. The big box store plywood variety is not a good choice (9-14 layers/ply) as the edges splinter easily, and probably not true 3/4 inch (at least locally). This can/will cause headaches if you don't take that approx. 1/8 inch side to side variance into account.

Attached are a few pictures.

Also, can someone advise if the TAF cabinet uses a locking miter joint for the cabinet corners? I am not sure.

-Paul

Locking Miter Image (resized).jpgLocking Miter Image (resized).jpgPicture 032 (resized).jpgPicture 032 (resized).jpgPicture 041 (resized).jpgPicture 041 (resized).jpgPlywood (resized).jpgPlywood (resized).jpg
#12 2 years ago
Quoted from Super_Duty:

Agree with snyper2099, having built a cab from scratch a few years back. Just when you think you have made all the proper cuts, have all the holes routed, channels cut for the playfield glass inserts, etc. you will mostly likely find something that you missed. Though you won't know until your going back together again.
I built the one pictured in the garage using basic carpentry tools, power saw, router w/stand, drill, drill press, etc. Made a router table out of couple of saw horses and a sheet of 3/4" plywood, using an edge clamp for the straight cuts for both the saw and router.
You're probably aware, but make sure to find Cabinet grade plywood, preferably the 5 ply / layers variety in true 3/4 inch. Won't be cheap, but it will save you a ton of hassle later when you go to finish the cabinet. The big box store plywood variety is not a good choice (9-14 layers/ply) as the edges splinter easily, and probably not true 3/4 inch (at least locally). This can/will cause headaches if you don't take that approx. 1/8 inch side to side variance into account.
Attached are a few pictures.
Also, can someone advise if the TAF cabinet uses a locking miter joint for the cabinet corners? I am not sure.
-Paul
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I was planning on using birch plywood. I have used it in the past on speakerboxes and a couple arcade projects. My friend has an addams I can check out for reference and I have a jackbot that should be the same cab I can work from.

F313C696-ADD5-4124-B5B1-7CCF1514015F (resized).jpegF313C696-ADD5-4124-B5B1-7CCF1514015F (resized).jpeg
#13 2 years ago

HUGE undertaking. Good luck with the project. I think you'll be surprised but you'll probably end up paying as much as just buying one. BUT, it will be new and a proudly hand-crafted machine.

I always felt the biggest issue with a scratch build like this is the wireforms. Those have a huge amount of nuance to them. But Adamms just has one and it's a fairly straight forward one. Plus, you have a friend nearby who I assume will let you borrow his to use as a template. The ramps and topper are vacuum formed plastic and generally available in the aftermarket. Subways and ball guides can be fabricated. Might be hard to source the thing hand and mechanism so start looking. Board sets won't be cheap especially if you want to stay original.

Good luck!
Jaz

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from Jazman:

HUGE undertaking. Good luck with the project. I think you'll be surprised but you'll probably end up paying as much as just buying one. BUT, it will be new and a proudly hand-crafted machine.
I always felt the biggest issue with a scratch build like this is the wireforms. Those have a huge amount of nuance to them. But Adamms just has one and it's a fairly straight forward one. Plus, you have a friend nearby who I assume will let you borrow his to use as a template. The ramps and topper are vacuum formed plastic and generally available in the aftermarket. Subways and ball guides can be fabricated. Might be hard to source the thing hand and mechanism so start looking. Board sets won't be cheap especially if you want to stay original.
Good luck!
Jaz

The cost I am not worried about. I am not rich but can come up with money in small waves. I have a couple other hobbies I am going to clear out of my life and that should give me a good start. Also have an extra vehicle I have had laying around and will be selling it to fund this, perfect time used cars are going for crazy prices.

I can’t justify spending 6-8k on a used addams that needs a lot of the work I am going to be doing anyways. I also really don’t care how long this takes but I am shooting for having it done next spring/summer. Hopefully be done with the playfield and harness this summer/fall.

#15 2 years ago

Good luck on your project. I am in the very same process. I have amassed nearly all the parts except the wireform. It has been the hardest to come by. I used an old Medieval Madness cabinet as the base and have completed the entire cabinet including all new wiring and terminations from scratch. I've been working on the playfield here and there but it has taken a backseat to other restorations. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from Juicerc51:

Good luck on your project. I am in the very same process. I have amassed nearly all the parts except the wireform. It has been the hardest to come by. I used an old Medieval Madness cabinet as the base and have completed the entire cabinet including all new wiring and terminations from scratch. I've been working on the playfield here and there but it has taken a backseat to other restorations. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Thank you. Maybe I’ll make an extra wireform when I make mine. I’ll let you know when I get to that step

#18 2 years ago

Great post, I will be following as well. I am doing a similar WPC build with a Doctor Who. Getting some of the game specific mechs and light boards was the hardest quest. I got a used wiring harness that was somewhat chopped up, missing lots of connectors and cut where any coils, switches bumpers were supposed to be attached. To make up the wire shortages, I decided to add 3 pin Molex connectors to all the Coils, rather than have lots of heat shrinked added wire bits of 3 to 6 inches of wire. The thing that I have learned this past month on following the manual switch, Lamp and coil matrixes, is that there is a lot of daisy chains in the wiring. From the board connector to the first switch, then to the next switch and next and next (8 to 9 times) in the column or row on the matrix. The Matrix will list a white wire with blue. From the connector it may be a blue stripe for several switches, then suddenly a white wire with a blue band will be connected and go down the line. It is still white and blue but looks different. Don't know why they did that. Sure confused me at first. Putting a DMM on one end of the connector and going down the line, confirms that the wire makes the whole trail complete to the end electrical part. Wire-Bot here on Pinside has really good prices on colored wires and connectors.

DSCF2728 (resized).JPGDSCF2728 (resized).JPG
#19 2 years ago

Been following him since day one. I do plan on making a lot more parts myself than him, should keep the cost down a bit.

#20 2 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Thank you. Maybe I’ll make an extra wireform when I make mine. I’ll let you know when I get to that step

Thanks, thats sounds like a plan.

#21 2 years ago

Playfield showed up!

CC049A15-4E0C-48AB-8D64-EE1C52C3F5AD (resized).jpegCC049A15-4E0C-48AB-8D64-EE1C52C3F5AD (resized).jpeg
#22 2 years ago

Flattened out a few inserts and prepped for clear coat. Clear should be here tomorrow and I’ll throw it in the booth. I didn’t get too aggressive with it I’m no kruzman or hep, but wanted to protect it a bit.

15A7DFDB-503B-4C76-A050-5954DBF56BF1 (resized).jpeg15A7DFDB-503B-4C76-A050-5954DBF56BF1 (resized).jpegBA98CA75-8310-4201-AC97-E756645EC590 (resized).jpegBA98CA75-8310-4201-AC97-E756645EC590 (resized).jpeg

I was on the fence about re clearing this thing but I gave it a little tap on an edge you can’t see and the clear chipped fairly easy. It seems too hard/brittle to me.

BA695E4C-9C63-45DF-97F7-121BCA0C354B (resized).jpegBA695E4C-9C63-45DF-97F7-121BCA0C354B (resized).jpeg

#23 2 years ago

After reading many posts about Mirco Playfields, esp. the recent comments in the Texas Pinball show, I was expecting the playfield clear to be rubbery, as in the JJP games with posts pooling. Looks this one got too much hardener to make it brittle. This is a lesson learned to those doing playfield swaps, that they are not plug and play. Ron Told me that most of his business is from re-clearing both Mirco and CPR playfields, as well as fixing rising/sinking inserts. Kind of scary for the people that just do a PF swap and hope for the best?

#24 2 years ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

After reading many posts about Mirco Playfields, esp. the recent comments in the Texas Pinball show, I was expecting the playfield clear to be rubbery, as in the JJP games with posts pooling. Looks this one got too much hardener to make it brittle. This is a lesson learned to those doing playfield swaps, that they are not plug and play. Ron Told me that most of his business is from re-clearing both Mirco and CPR playfields, as well as fixing rising/sinking inserts. Kind of scary for the people that just do a PF swap and hope for the best?

I was talking about this with the painters and a ppg salesman. They have ceramiclear on them that is known to be harder than other clears. I think too hard of a clear will chip easy and too soft of a clear will dimple. There probably isn’t a perfect middle ground because the products used were not designed with pinball in mind at all. Either way I think what I put on there should help seal up the sharp edges that were made from being routed after the clear was applied. It seems like that is the main reason they start chipping.

#25 1 year ago

Clear is on. Got a few fisheyes on the mansion so I will probably wait a bit and do another coat. Don’t want it to get too thick though.

54F04145-DCF5-49D3-90ED-1DD6B8F95AAF (resized).jpeg54F04145-DCF5-49D3-90ED-1DD6B8F95AAF (resized).jpeg

E1E48924-D5EB-4128-9DC7-761C27D830FA (resized).jpegE1E48924-D5EB-4128-9DC7-761C27D830FA (resized).jpeg
Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
#26 1 year ago

PF blocked out and prepped for clear again
915043E1-5035-418B-86CD-2F775C90E5BE (resized).jpeg915043E1-5035-418B-86CD-2F775C90E5BE (resized).jpeg

I’m happy with it now, minor dust that can be taken care of with buffing. Going to let this thing sit for a month while parts get gathered and then buff it. This clear layed out really well.

30BD23D5-9315-4044-AB55-8BFA37C9ECB7 (resized).jpeg30BD23D5-9315-4044-AB55-8BFA37C9ECB7 (resized).jpeg39B1D071-3EEA-4196-9304-DD5E67079B69 (resized).jpeg39B1D071-3EEA-4196-9304-DD5E67079B69 (resized).jpeg974632CD-C07F-4F73-A62D-68303DDD063B (resized).jpeg974632CD-C07F-4F73-A62D-68303DDD063B (resized).jpeg
#27 1 year ago

Mmmmm..... puurrrrrrddddyyyyyy....

1 week later
#28 1 year ago

All scoops on the way, all the flippers mechs, light sockets, switches, everything to build the bookcase mech is on the way. I’m going to be out of town for a week so it should all be here waiting for me when I get back. The only parts I will be missing from the bottom side with be the the light boards, high power board, thing motor, thing box, thing opto, and some kicker coils.

Plan is to start building and wiring the bottom side while saving a bit of cash to get topside parts coming. Excited to get wiring

#29 1 year ago

Well I just got back home and we got 36 inches of shipping delay. My sendcutsend order showed up though. Pretty sweet deal honestly, the parts look great.

46990F66-D187-4971-B639-1C37C7D28723 (resized).jpeg46990F66-D187-4971-B639-1C37C7D28723 (resized).jpegEBF3FADD-4F47-48BF-9B31-05F68192909E (resized).jpegEBF3FADD-4F47-48BF-9B31-05F68192909E (resized).jpeg
#30 1 year ago

More goodies in the mail! I’m going with all the pops in this color combo but I will be tinting the caps to match the smoked ramp.

D4BDA784-519F-4D03-AB11-818688804004 (resized).jpegD4BDA784-519F-4D03-AB11-818688804004 (resized).jpeg

#31 1 year ago

Scoops!

133CB469-CBB6-436C-92BA-9B85CFCAD558 (resized).jpeg133CB469-CBB6-436C-92BA-9B85CFCAD558 (resized).jpeg
#32 1 year ago

Parts rollin’ in today!

858F9956-AD7A-4F10-82FE-7C97CA86E312 (resized).jpeg858F9956-AD7A-4F10-82FE-7C97CA86E312 (resized).jpeg

#33 1 year ago

More parts. Looking like my package from Australia got lost though. Son of a…

1DA41828-C05D-42B4-84C3-8C85B346B1F1 (resized).jpeg1DA41828-C05D-42B4-84C3-8C85B346B1F1 (resized).jpeg
#34 1 year ago

oooo another scratch build adams, following

#35 1 year ago

Never heard of Send Cut Send until I saw this. That's really cool. Where did you get the cad files for all of the parts or did you build/design them yourself? I have some whirlwind parts I could use, just wondering if there is a database somewhere (kind of like thingverse)

#36 1 year ago
Quoted from TheClownpuncher:

Never heard of Send Cut Send until I saw this. That's really cool. Where did you get the cad files for all of the parts or did you build/design them yourself? I have some whirlwind parts I could use, just wondering if there is a database somewhere (kind of like thingverse)

Pinside member Wallybgood did all the work on the cad files. I believe he has just made files for games he has remade himself. Can't thank him enough!

#37 1 year ago

Ahahh! They found my package and came back. Whew

I think I can finish the bottom side with one or two more orders. Need to wait for a few of my ebay auctions to end to recoup some funds.

One thing I was hoping to find used or just cheaper is the thing motor. 329$ is steep for that IMO

3C0F4143-8D27-4D50-9D9F-534DFDBBCFC8 (resized).jpeg3C0F4143-8D27-4D50-9D9F-534DFDBBCFC8 (resized).jpeg
#38 1 year ago

Just an FYI, but rockwell has the wire with the correct striping for your TAF to match the schematics.

#39 1 year ago

I'm sure you've seen it since you already mentioned wallybgood but are you going to do the slide out conversion? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-slide-out-playfield-conversion#post-6277865

I was planning on restoring my cabinet this summer and am thinking about doing this.

#40 1 year ago
Quoted from kingofl337:

Just an FYI, but rockwell has the wire with the correct striping for your TAF to match the schematics.

Agree! I have been using Rockwell for making my wire harness the right colors and adding molex connectors and trifurcons for my Bally resto.

#41 1 year ago
Quoted from kingofl337:

Just an FYI, but rockwell has the wire with the correct striping for your TAF to match the schematics.

I can’t decide what to do. I have about half of the 22awg colors I need. So either order the remaining colors or order just the base colors and use a heat shrink label maker to label colors and components

49CA0754-3047-49F9-B8DE-53ECB641E09C (resized).jpeg49CA0754-3047-49F9-B8DE-53ECB641E09C (resized).jpeg
#42 1 year ago

Cool to know there is a guy on pinside we can buy color-correct wire from. Is there a minimum? I literally need a couple feet of a few colors. Dont want to waste his time if he is only dealing in more bulk stuff.

#43 1 year ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Cool to know there is a guy on pinside we can buy color-correct wire from. Is there a minimum? I literally need a couple feet of a few colors. Dont want to waste his time if he is only dealing in more bulk stuff.

His website is http://wirebot.xyz

#44 1 year ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Cool to know there is a guy on pinside we can buy color-correct wire from. Is there a minimum? I literally need a couple feet of a few colors. Dont want to waste his time if he is only dealing in more bulk stuff.

I have bought as small as 1 foot of a particular color. Although I have since learned to buy twice the amount I need, just in case.

#45 1 year ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

I can’t decide what to do. I have about half of the 22awg colors I need. So either order the remaining colors or order just the base colors and use a heat shrink label maker to label colors and components[quoted image]

Nice wire labels!

What system are you using?

I use a P-touch and it works very well, but I really like those!

#46 1 year ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Ahahh! They found my package and came back. Whew
I think I can finish the bottom side with one or two more orders. Need to wait for a few of my ebay auctions to end to recoup some funds.
One thing I was hoping to find used or just cheaper is the thing motor. 329$ is steep for that IMO
[quoted image]

Thing motors are stupidly priced and no one knows why.

#47 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Nice wire labels!
What system are you using?
I use a P-touch and it works very well, but I really like those!

That is just a pic from google, I was looking at a p touch last night. Is there any draw backs? Seems like thats the cheapest option.

https://www.amazon.com/SuperInk-Compatible-Brother-HSe-211-PT-P750WVP/dp/B07H95SPBF/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa

#48 1 year ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

That is just a pic from google, I was looking at a p touch last night. Is there any draw backs? Seems like thats the cheapest option.
amazon.com link »

Im just using a regular cheap p-touch off amazon with 1/4" white label tape.

I used to just sharpie mark everything but my sonic cleaner washes it all away.

After im done with a restoration i either leave them on, or remove the labels for a factory look.

The labels survive the sonic cleaner perfectly and dont wash off.

But shrink tube labels look real professional an super clean.

#49 1 year ago

Testing out a new tool I have no idea how to use.

A382C17C-E7FC-403B-8E9D-027918B466A2 (resized).jpegA382C17C-E7FC-403B-8E9D-027918B466A2 (resized).jpeg

Yesterday finished buffing some dirt nibs on the playfield. I’m not going to flat sand and buff the whole thing, I have a tendency to mess with things util they are perfect, or I ruin them. I’m happy with it.
D4A8F519-17DC-4226-BFA7-7826E389C983 (resized).jpegD4A8F519-17DC-4226-BFA7-7826E389C983 (resized).jpeg

#50 1 year ago

I love these threads... Following every post

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
Decorations
$ 67.99
Lighting - Led
Lee's Parts
Led
$ 25.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
Decals
$ 119.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
pinballmod
Toys/Add-ons
26,000 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Auckland, NZ
From: $ 64.95
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinSound
Sound/Speakers
$ 65.00
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
arcade-cabinets.com
Armor and blades
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 84.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
GMods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 41.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
Interactive
$ 41.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
Interactive
$ 14.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
10,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Roselle, IL
From: $ 8.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Twisted Tokens
Toys/Add-ons
13,500
Machine - For Sale
Pleasant Hill, MO
From: $ 27.95
$ 55.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Twisted Tokens
Toys/Add-ons
11,695
Machine - For Sale
Livermore, CA
$ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
$ 180.00
Cabinet Parts
Starcade Amusement
Cabinet parts
$ 29.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos LLC
Decorations
From: $ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 399.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields
Decals
$ 31.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
Interactive
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
Other
From: $ 12.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 24.00
Various Novelties
Pinball Photos LLC
Various novelties
There are 181 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 4.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-bobs-edition and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.