Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinballinreno.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from orangegsx:I can’t decide what to do. I have about half of the 22awg colors I need. So either order the remaining colors or order just the base colors and use a heat shrink label maker to label colors and components[quoted image]
Nice wire labels!
What system are you using?
I use a P-touch and it works very well, but I really like those!
Quoted from orangegsx:Ahahh! They found my package and came back. Whew
I think I can finish the bottom side with one or two more orders. Need to wait for a few of my ebay auctions to end to recoup some funds.
One thing I was hoping to find used or just cheaper is the thing motor. 329$ is steep for that IMO
[quoted image]
Thing motors are stupidly priced and no one knows why.
Quoted from orangegsx:That is just a pic from google, I was looking at a p touch last night. Is there any draw backs? Seems like thats the cheapest option.
amazon.com link »
Im just using a regular cheap p-touch off amazon with 1/4" white label tape.
I used to just sharpie mark everything but my sonic cleaner washes it all away.
After im done with a restoration i either leave them on, or remove the labels for a factory look.
The labels survive the sonic cleaner perfectly and dont wash off.
But shrink tube labels look real professional an super clean.
Quoted from orangegsx:Started screwing stuff on last night. Getting a feel for how everything fits together. Still waiting on diodes or I would have installed them before the controlled lights and switches. Also I think I might weld up a rotisserie this week.
[quoted image]
The Rotisserie is pretty mandatory to work on both sides at the same time.
I find it better to put all the posts and flatrails in before doing the bottom side.
It seems easier for me somehow and all the t-nuts are in place. This requires some going back and forth from top to bottom.
Its also really helpful when installing the wiring to be able to plug into the game to test as you go.
I pretty much always get the cabinet up and running before I tackle the playfield re-assembly.
Have you thought about putting in the opto board flipper switches instead of the old mechanical ones in the cabinet?
I do it and its really nice.
Quoted from orangegsx:I got the wrong 8-32 t nuts so will have to make another trip to menards to get the three prongs. Still missing a lot from the top side too. Don’t have most of the posts yet.
I have thought about the opto flipper switches. I like the way they feel on my jackbot, but I also like being able to cradle with the main flippers and hit jackpots with the upper on my whirlwind. So kinda leaning towards the old style. If thats even how it would work with this system I’m not sure.
[quoted image]
I wasn’t planning on doing a rotisserie but I will be doing more back and forth than I thought so. No biggie I’ll just make one.
I have no problem staging the flippers with the opto boards, they work perfectly.
In fact is a bit more consistent and doesnt take hours of testing to get them right.
Quoted from orangegsx:I wasn’t planning on doing a rotisserie but I will be doing more back and forth than I thought so. No biggie I’ll just make one.
The "quick and dirty" one made out of pipe is pretty inexpensive to make and only takes a couple hours to put it in service.
I made a couple of them aways back when they were like $50 to build.
I didnt bother painting them as I live in a desert and moisture isnt a problem.
But I did wash the pipes and fittings all off with lacquer thinner.
Home depot cut and threaded the pipes for free (or forgot to charge me?)
Quoted from orangegsx:Got my first print to work. Need to measure one of these and make sure this is the right size. I want to make pretty much everything out of this smoked clear resin. Star posts, thing box, bookcase cover…..
[quoted image][quoted image]
That looks great! What printer did you get?
Quoted from orangedude71:orangegsx
im doing a playfield swap right now. IM assuming you are using the parts list commonly available on the interwebs. Did you notice the counts on the BOM for Tee nuts are a long way off from the required qty for the playfield
Theres a ton of them in the speaker panel
Quoted from orangegsx:3d printed some posts today. Need a little work to be perfect but shouldn’t be hard. I wanted a tinted clear post and couldn’t find anything. I’ll print a bunch of these and throw a little clear on them to get the gloss back.
Also they seem just as strong as the oem posts.
[quoted image]
After cleaning/curing
[quoted image]
Those look great!
Quoted from orangegsx:Got some time to work on pinball tonight. Nothing too crazy but started getting the diodes on everything.[quoted image]
Also my curing machine for 3d prints showed up. Got some posts done, will have festers electric chair printing tonight.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Curing machine?
Quoted from orangegsx:I’m using a UV resin printer. It hardens the resin layer by layer to print the object, but it doesn’t fully harden the resin. So you use a wash and cure machine to wash the parts of leftover liquid resin and then it shines a uv light on it and rotates the part so it fully cures.
[quoted image]
This is what they look like right out of the printer. Still needing washing and curing.
Really interesting. The parts look great.
Quoted from orangegsx:Couple parts showed up today. I was trying to only focus on parts to finish the bottom of the playfield but got these used for a deal so I had to jump on it. Speaker panel will buff up nicely and probably repaint and decal the apron.
[quoted image]
I say powder coat it locally with standard black that they have in stock with 65% sheen.
Get the treasure cove decals or have Bryan_Kelly direct print it.
Have the powdercoater look at it and match it up.
My powdercoater does it for $25 if I get all the parts done at the same time.
All 6 pieces cost me around $125
Buffing out an original speaker plastic is WAY better than buying a sad repro...
Quoted from orangegsx:Can anyone confirm some measurements for me? I think my ramp may be warped. You have to flex it pretty hard to get it into place.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Ive never had a repro ramp that I didnt have to wrestle into place.
They can be pretty firmly pressed into place without any adverse affects.
Flexing it pretty hard is somewhat normal.
Quoted from orangegsx:A few setbacks lately. We left town to go pick up a kitten and my old ladies engine let go. The spark plug ceramic shattered and bent some valves. These years of pilots had oil consumption issues anyways so I had a wrecked pilot at work I have been saving for an engine swap. Wasn’t planning on doing it right now though.
Donor engine out, preventative maintenance and swap to our car this weekend.. Then back to pinball stuff
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Cute kitten! Congrats on the addition to the family!
Quoted from orangegsx:Quick bit of tinkering tonight.
One more ball guide done and installed.
[quoted image]
Started bending on the shooter ramp.
[quoted image]
Slow and steady wins the race...!
Quoted from transprtr4u:How is yours coming ?
Cab is painted.
Playfield is cleared and has cured for a few weeks.
I will likely silkscreen and decal by next week.
Then the reassembly will begin.
Stumblor pinball is finally sending me the widescreen color display, it wasnt cheap, lol.
Quoted from rsos1:What made you end up going with virtual pin?
Its not "Virtual Pin".
Its virtuapin.net
Paul does really good work there.
Quoted from Elicash:I would be interested to hear more about the pro's of Kirk Weaver? Maybe over PM if that is more appropriate (I dont want to be controversial in this awesome build thread).
I have heard Virtuapin does good work but there are still several finishing steps like holes that need to be drilled. Would be curious to hear more from people with experience. Thank you!
Drilling your own holes is much preferred.
Slight differences in cabinets have to be considered especially when using after market playfields and parts.
There are almost no NOS parts, the playfields have to be fitted.
Get a complete cab from Paul, they are near perfect.
Buying a complete silkscreened and decaled cabinet from Paul is cheaper than doing it yourself unless you are a carpenter and have the time and tools.
Quoted from orangegsx:I wish GPE was still open.
Me too.
I get most stuff from Newark now.
Low prices and very fast shipping.
Quoted from orangegsx:I have a ton of 4004s, the boards are labeled for 4007s though. I suppose they can be substituted.
They are the same.
4004 is 400v
4007 is 1000v
Quoted from orangegsx:I was given a good vector file for the apron artwork. Not sure what colors I am going to go with yet but I plan on printing them without the black border. Maybe silver and gold. Matte black and charcoal might be cool too.
On this it might be best to print on dry or low heat tranfer medium.
Several people are using this method now.
Im seeing a possible future where dry or heat transfer will be available for complete playfield art then clear over it.
Quoted from orangegsx:Little progress tonight, shooter gate installed, shooter ramp flap riveted on and installed.
[quoted image]
Opto and interrupter installed on the thing and bolted the assembly on. Eject assembly built and installed.
[quoted image]
I would either reposition that ramp flap or sand down the edge so that its not hitting the flat-rail.
"as-is" there is a slight buckle in the center of it.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinballinreno.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-bobs-edition?tu=pinballinreno and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Auckland, NZ
Rancho Cucamonga, CA