(Topic ID: 326669)

Pinball Rails - Reproduction Rails

By ibis

1 year ago


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  • Latest reply 13 hours ago by dmacy
  • Topic is favorited by 70 Pinsiders

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    #1 1 year ago


    Other items - for sale

    Pinball Rails - Reproduction Rails

    Added: 2022-11-30 03:30:15 UTC • Re-listed: 10 times (January 25th, 2024)

    41 Pinsiders added this ad to their favorites.

    Price

    $ 1 (Firm)

    Price is firm

    Contact seller

    Item description

    Thank you for your interest in a set of new reproduction side rails! Please read the information below:

    The Rails: The rails are made of white oak which is a durable and strong hardwood. They are replicated by using a donor set of existing rails for the title of game you are ordering. Each set is unique, all with different lengths, relief cuts, and other features like scallops and through-holes. They are finished with at least three coats of gloss lacquer for protection. They should last the life of the game! The ‘back’ rail on all EM(if applicable), SS and most Alphanumeric games are included as a ‘rail’.

    To Order:
    Please send me a PM with the following……
    Full Name
    Email Address
    Mailing Address
    Title of Game
    Color for the rails (or natural)
    YES dimples or NO dimples
    Donating your set of rails? YES or NO

    RAIL LIBRARY

    6 Million Dollar Man $80
    Bride of Pinbot $70
    F-14 $80
    Funhouse $70
    Indiana Jones(Williams) $80
    Lost World $80
    Mata Hari $75
    Medusa $85
    Meteor $70
    Night Rider $80
    Taxi $70
    Family Guy $95
    Firepower $85
    Elvira and the Party Monsters $70
    Skateball $70
    Paragon $85
    T2 $70
    WH20 $70
    Stern Flight 2000 $80
    TAF $75
    Stern Magic $75
    Joker Poker $70
    Centaur $85
    Space Shuttle $70
    Twilight Zone $70
    Stern Ali $75
    Stern Big Game $80
    Gottlieb 2001 $70
    South Park $80
    Eight Ball Deluxe $85
    Stern 9 Ball $80
    Jurassic Park-Data East - $75
    Diner $70
    Fish Tales $75
    Solar Fire $90
    Dr. Who $60
    Batman Forever $70
    Grand Lizard $75
    Williams Flash $75
    Whirlwind $70
    Last Action Hero $70
    Fireball 2 $80
    Harlem Globetrotters $75
    Flash Gordon $100
    Dolly Parton $75

    BACKBOARDS

    WH20 $25
    Bride of Pinbot $25
    Funhouse $35
    The Addams Family $35
    Grand Lizard $25
    Taxi (+3 small pieces) $40

    If the rails are not on the updated list I will need your set sent to me. Once I email you back that is your confirmation that you are on the list for a set of rails. This email may also include my address if I need your set - please let me know if you need the original set of rails back. When Im ready to make your set, an email will be sent to let you know they are being produced.

    Backboards: At this time I can reproduce the more basic backboards for the pre-WPC and WPC era of game. Like the rails, if it's not on the list above you can send me yours and I can see if it's something I can reproduce. Reconditioning your existing backboard can be done too. The backboard will be sanded and finished exactly like the rails with any gouges or chips filled in flush with the wood surface. It should like like new when done with all the holes predrilled and mounting locations dimpled.

    Production:
    I do have a full time career and a family. This is something I do on the side for fun and is a way to express my creativity as well as help support this hobby we all know and love. The longest part of production is the finish. Applying several coats of finish and letting it cure takes time. Black dye takes three coats, other lighter dyes take up to 5 coats. If paint is requested, the final color is sealed with three coats of clear lacquer. I will always do my best to communicate the production of your rails if things seem to be going to take longer than expected. Please keep this in mind in your pin-project planning!

    Pricing:
    Each set posted has pricing attached. The pricing reflects the amount of material used to produce your rails as well as other features needed to be reproduced. Most sets of rails use 3 pieces but some can use up to 8 individual pieces. Once the rails are finished, I will send an email requesting payment. I source the white oak from local hardwood suppliers here in Florida and rip/cut the stock myself. Prices for hardwood do fluctuate so rail-pricing could reflect these changes in the market over the course of time. The latest will always be posted in this AD.

    Shipping:
    The rails are shipped in a long tube and they are considered a ‘irregular’ package by the UPS and USPS. The average cost is anywhere between $18 to $25 for a single tube, possibly more if you ordered two sets of rails in two tubes taped together. I will always try to find the most economical shipping method. Once your rails are finished and ready to be shipped I will notify you of the shipping cost. I am not shipping Internationally at this time.

    ** I have stopped offering pre-drilled holes on the under-side of the rails. There is too much room for error since every game is different and lining the holes up is not always possible. Each set of rails has an instruction sheet explaining that the rail must be clamped to the playfield and a pilot hole drilled prior to driving a screw in to the wood. Ignoring this step will almost always end with a split or broken rail**

    If you have any comments or questions, feel free to PM me directly anytime.


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    Shipping/pickup info

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    Willing to ship mainland
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    Contact

    Contact ibis via PinsideMail.

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    Item location

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    #2 1 year ago

    good luck, i often need rails

    #3 1 year ago

    May not hurt to create a discussion topic. Since this is a marketplace ad I think the discussion shuts down after the ad is over?

    #4 1 year ago

    Good on you for taking this on, I had considered doing this myself, but I have too many irons in the fire. Looking forward to seeing your production (and your shop setup if you choose to post photos)

    #5 1 year ago

    I need sets for three games right now, so I hope you get this up and running.

    #6 1 year ago

    Have at least one game that I'm interested in, so, looking forward to seeing this progress!

    #7 1 year ago

    Best of luck!

    #8 1 year ago

    Glad to hear it!!! Very interested in seeing your work.

    #9 1 year ago

    Could donate a United rail that I need replicated and just haven’t gotten around to.

    #10 1 year ago

    Doing a couple of playfield swaps soon, following

    #11 1 year ago

    Thank all! Im headed to two more material suppliers tomorrow to discuss supply. I have some things on order and will start building out the shop next week! Things are moving.......

    Someone also messaged me about another item that could be done as well. Playfield stand-sticks; used in a lot of older games especially EM's. Not sure if this is a viable product for most, but Im considering it too.

    #12 1 year ago

    Update: I have two sources for material. I'll be securing some stock within the next two weeks. Behind the scenes I am lining up about three sets of rails to work on. This will help me work out the process and any hold-ups I'm not immediately thinking about.

    The shop is coming along but slow, Ive been gone the past few days. Still need to build my vent hood and an extra but simple router table. Instead of chamfering the edges Im going to ever so lightly rout them with a 45 degree bit. Will take the edge off but barely be noticeable.

    The main thing I need to uncover is how well the dye works, how much is needed, etc. It's new to me and I want to make sure the colors pop after lacquer is applied. So that will take a little experimenting with too. Color is something I need to work on too, at this point I am working with black but once the process starts to flow I will look into adding more.

    My goal is to be up and running as soon as possible, maybe at the end of this month or early January. Initially I plan on taking small runs of orders, thinking 5-7 sets at a time while keeping a list of everyones requests. This will help keep me efficient and sane! Thanks for the patience, looking forward to getting this going!

    #13 1 year ago

    Vent hood is 99% finished, on to a secondary router table. Things are coming together, hope to have my stock of wood next week.

    I have three sets of rails coming in about a week or so. These will be the first run to play with the stain, lacquer, and get an idea of curing time. If everything goes well, I plan to open to orders in early January. Thanks for your patience!

    #14 1 year ago

    UPDATE: Vent hood is finished, compact router table almost finished.

    I should be getting the first three sets of rails in the mail this week/early next week. Im also expecting the mill to call this week to pick up the first order of stock. I only bought a small amount but can repeat the order anytime. These first three sets of rails will be completed first but I feel confident things will go smooth. I think we should start a list of people needing rails. For the interim, please send me your info and game title and I will start a list! As the progression the other sets of rails starts I will be sure to post updates/pictures.

    Thanks all for your patience!

    #15 1 year ago

    You need a name for your product. Reese rails were known by everyone. What will yours be?

    #16 1 year ago

    Thats not a bad idea! Luckily Taylors last name went well with the name of the product lol! Ill have to think about that, thanks for planting that seed!

    #17 1 year ago
    Quoted from ibis:

    Thats not a bad idea! Luckily Taylors last name went well with the name of the product lol! Ill have to think about that, thanks for planting that seed!

    Just knowing your name would help.

    Rails by (fill in your first or last name.)

    #18 1 year ago

    Sebastian rails!

    #19 1 year ago

    Why replace factory rails? It seems like there’s a pretty large market for them, so there must be good reason. I’m going to do a of swap on a flight 2000 and didn’t consider replacing them until reading this thread.

    #20 1 year ago

    I'm going to need a set of rails and back board for a funhouse I'm building. Only problem is that I don't have a set of rails to send to build from. Still on the search.
    Good luck with making much needed rails. Wish you the best!

    #21 1 year ago

    Bryan-Kelly, good point! But I think my name wouldn't lend to a good business model. For the record, Im Leon. Rails by Ibis may work??!! R. B. I.?

    Chubtoad13, when doing a high end restoration the rails can be pretty obvious when screwed and sandwiched between a $900 playfield and $180 set of new shiny plastics. It does make the difference and a small investment towards an amazing looking finished product. Some games rails are bare, no color, and they can get pretty beat up. The black vinyl on a large portion of rails gets ripped, gouged, torn, worn, or just plain dull. This option can provide you with a color of black to match, or custom colors that would go along with your game. I have a set of purple for my Meteor, someone may want hot pink for Playboy, deep red for Gorgar. Its just am option to add personal flair to someones game.

    Codered, if a set of FH rails comes in Ill post it in the main thread. I have not begun to think about backboards but its not out of the question. Some are fairly simple 3/4" ply with a beveled edge like BoP. Some are absolutely difficult like AFM. So I think Id be open to some backboards as long as they are simple, for the time being. Once my feet are wet, I can take on some trickier backboards!

    #22 1 year ago

    For the record, I've known Leon, ibis, for over 10 years and totally vouch for his credibility and seriousness. He's one of the best dudes I've met in the hobby, and I've met a lot. He definitely knows his stuff. I wish you much success, Leon! And I may soon be a customer!

    #23 1 year ago

    I am very excited for this. I'm going to need a set or two in the future.

    #24 1 year ago

    Thank you Dave, thats nice of you to say! I appreciate the vote of confidence!

    #25 1 year ago

    Quick and dirty router table is done, works like a champ for relief cuts! Vent hood for lacquer is done, working great too. Rip blade for the table saw is in, dust collection is installed, shop is ready for the most part. Im waiting to hear that the material has arrived and is milled to my specs, but that shouldn't be much longer. Im waiting on three sets of rails to arrive to do over the Holiday break, Im expecting that to go super smooth and will definitely post pics!

    Ive already started a wait list for when things get rolling so if you are interested be sure to reach out and send a PM with your name, email, and what game(s) your interested in. In the beginning Im going to take on about 5 sets at a time then increase the production as I get my flow going. Looking forward to working with you all! Ill keep you posted on the progress........thanks for your patience!

    IMG_9433 (resized).jpgIMG_9433 (resized).jpg
    #26 1 year ago
    Quoted from nerdygrrl:

    I am very excited for this. I'm going to need a set or two in the future.

    I am excited about this too and I am in for a set of Whirlwind rails once you are up and running!

    #27 1 year ago

    Elicash, send me a PM with your name, email and Ill get you on the list!

    #28 1 year ago

    First few sets of rails are on the way to me! I will be posting progress pics once I begin! After that, I will begin taking orders in batches with the first few going to the ones who have reached out to me to get on the waiting list. The list is still ongoing, so feel free to send me a PM to get in line. At that time I will change the initial ad up top to reflect the cost-range and shipping info, etc. etc.

    In the mean time, my first batch of white oak has arrived and ready to be ripped.
    IMG_9445 (resized).jpgIMG_9445 (resized).jpg

    Also working on making a tapered-flute jig. This one is going to be interesting! LOL! It will create the hole-guide for the ball rail at the top of the playfield.
    IMG_9444 (resized).jpgIMG_9444 (resized).jpg

    1 week later
    #29 1 year ago

    F-14 coming along nicely! All cutting is done on them and Im fooling around with the stain now. It's interesting stuff, its a concentrate in a small bottle that gets diluted with water or alcohol. It doesn't go on very dark(1oz to a qt.) so I have one coat on a test strip and once it dries I'll put down a second and a third coat and see how it looks. I want the black to be dark, so my other idea is to use a rattle can of black lacquer. Not my favorite choice as the cans can be expensive, theres lots of overspray that gets wasted, and it could drive the cost up a tad. Worse yet, it doesn't solve the other color options Im going to need. The pros about the rattle can is it needs two coats, can be applied back-to-back, and dries super quick! Unfortunately I can only find it in black and white. I have a few dye colors from another brand that I will try out next. They are not cheap either, this is a side of the industry I never knew existed until now lol. So if anyone has other ideas on 'dark/multiple-colors/stain', let me know!

    I have a few on the wait list now and once I get past this first set I am going to begin reaching out to them. So if you're interested in a set of rails, please reach out by PM. Ill officially change the AD in a week or so two to be officially 'open'. I plan on doing 4-6 sets at a time. Thanks for your patience, really excited to be doing this for the collective!

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    #30 1 year ago

    Adding black stain dye to the clear lacquer will prop up the black stain on black rails and add depth.

    Its the same for the other colors, add dye to the finish coat.

    #31 1 year ago

    Will be reaching out about possibly doing a F-14 set. Assume you’ll need the template?

    #32 1 year ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    Adding black stain dye to the clear lacquer will prop up the black stain on black rails and add depth.
    Its the same for the other colors, add dye to the finish coat.

    I agree, I just got the second coat on my test piece and its looking great! I think one more coat and I have the black formula down. What Ive thought about doing for other colors are, dishing out a small amount of clear lacquer in a glass jar and adding the color of stain needed in a smaller quantity. This way Im not dedicating an entire quart of clear lacquer to one color that could go bad over time.

    Quoted from dmacy:

    Will be reaching out about possibly doing a F-14 set. Assume you’ll need the template?

    dmacy, I have a donor set for F-14 so your golden! I can put you on the pre-list if you'd like. Just PM me your full name and email address and Ill get you down. Im going to 'open' for orders in about two weeks so you will be in the first run! Keep checking on the AD, I will have more info, cost, etc. soon. I am anticipating these to be just a tad higher in cost than before but I'll get all that info up soon.

    #33 1 year ago

    Hi

    I need a complete CFTBL rail set please

    Thanks

    #34 1 year ago

    Anyone got a Stargazer set you can send to Ibis? I’ll pay shipping both ways and you’ll have my eternal gratitude!

    #35 1 year ago
    Quoted from Toolpros:

    Hi
    I need a complete CFTBL rail set please
    Thanks

    Ill get you down on the wait list, just send me a PM with your full name, color for the rails and your email! Ill need your set of rails, I do not have that title in my library yet. Once Im ready to start your order Ill reach out and email you my address for the rails. Thanks!

    Quoted from DK:

    Anyone got a Stargazer set you can send to Ibis? I’ll pay shipping both ways and you’ll have my eternal gratitude!

    For selfish reasons, Id like to get this set done for DK so I can go play it when his scratch build is done!

    #36 1 year ago

    Classic sterns are easy. There’s no notches or anything. Technically I think there’s a rounded edge on the shooter lane inner rail but when I built mine, I didn’t bother because it doesn’t interfere with the ball and is covered by a plastic.

    Right side – 31-3/4”
    Left side – 38”
    Shooter lane – 19”
    Back = Length of playfield

    I could use set of pink (or unfinished) Dolly Parton rails though.

    #37 1 year ago

    I have Funhouse used rails and possibly Doctor Who used rails if needed as templates.

    #38 1 year ago
    Quoted from play_pinball:

    Classic sterns are easy. There’s no notches or anything. Technically I think there’s a rounded edge on the shooter lane inner rail but when I built mine, I didn’t bother because it doesn’t interfere with the ball and is covered by a plastic.
    Right side – 31-3/4”
    Left side – 38”
    Shooter lane – 19”
    Back = Length of playfield

    Would you say these are the dimensions for a Stargazer? If you need rails for another pin I’ll help if you’re right, mate!

    #39 1 year ago

    If there’s one thing you need to know about ibis is that he is a “librarian” of sorts.
    Once he has dimensions of your game it won’t be a “process” to get what you need…

    #40 1 year ago

    Yep, those are the lengths for Star Gazer. My Dolly comment was a bit of an aside.

    #41 1 year ago
    Quoted from play_pinball:

    Yep, those are the dimensions for Star Gazer. My Dolly comment was a bit of an aside.

    You rock!

    #42 1 year ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    I have Funhouse used rails and possibly Doctor Who used rails if needed as templates.

    Yes please, just PM when you dig them out and I'll send you my address and send you payment for shipping. THANKS!

    Quoted from play_pinball:

    Classic sterns are easy. There’s no notches or anything. Technically I think there’s a rounded edge on the shooter lane inner rail but when I built mine, I didn’t bother because it doesn’t interfere with the ball and is covered by a plastic.
    Right side – 31-3/4”
    Left side – 38”
    Shooter lane – 19”
    Back = Length of playfield
    I could use set of pink (or unfinished) Dolly Parton rails though.

    This is true about a lot of older Bally/Sterns, they are fairly simple for sure. Id like to still have a set for dimpling and routing hole locations. Id be happy to do a Dolly set for you, just send me a PM with your full name and email addy. I haven't played with mixing colors yet, but I dont mind trying to get a close match to the pink used on Dolly.

    #43 1 year ago

    Most (all?) of the Ballys I’ve owned have that tapered flute routed in them for the rail, which looks like you’ve got setup per your previous post. I haven’t come across anything fancy on a classic Stern.

    This is NOT a dig at Taylor but I did order some (very nice) rails from him for my first scratch build; a Quicksilver. They were dimpled and pre-drilled. I kinda wish they weren’t because there’s always going to be a margin of error. I ended up having to move a couple holes as a result. Not much but still. Those Stern rails so basic, I didn’t have much of a hard time aligning everything when I made my own rails for my Star Gazer or second QS build.

    It’s that tapered routing I don’t know how to do that’s preventing me from re-doing my Dolly rails myself. I don’t have the pf pulled apart right now and don’t have any extras to offer as donors. Glad you’re starting to offer these for us again and look forward to your library growing!

    #44 1 year ago

    play_pinball, I agree about the dimpling and pre-drilled aspect, theres always going to be a margin of error when taking off 30 year old parts and replacing them with brand new repo-parts. I do feel that the underneath should be pre-drilled though, based on the fact that if it isn't, your going to be clamping them to the play field when installing them anyway. Most of the time they should line up pretty well and with the clamping, the rail should stay true to the edge of the playfield. The fear being, that some people may not think they need to pre-drill at all, and you run the risk of splitting the hardwood. The same goes for dimpling the top, it will split without a pre-drill by the owner. The dimples are just a suggestion because Im 100% positive most all of the plastics will not align. If a dimple is way off, it should more than likely be covered by the plastic anyway. I may offer the option to pre-drill/dimple or not pre-drill/dimple. It will be a matter of keeping things from getting confusing when manufacturing 3-6 sets at a time and whats tied to the customer.

    As for the tappered-flute, yes, I made headway on the jig today. Im waiting for the right bit to arrive from Amazon before I can go any further. I think the set up will work well, I just need to make some tweaks and have a few practice runs on it before I lay down the real white oak.

    IMG_9483 (resized).jpgIMG_9483 (resized).jpgIMG_9484 (resized).jpgIMG_9484 (resized).jpg
    #45 1 year ago
    Quoted from ibis:

    Yes please, just PM when you dig them out and I'll send you my address and send you payment for shipping. THANKS!

    This is true about a lot of older Bally/Sterns, they are fairly simple for sure. Id like to still have a set for dimpling and routing hole locations. Id be happy to do a Dolly set for you, just send me a PM with your full name and email addy. I haven't played with mixing colors yet, but I dont mind trying to get a close match to the pink used on Dolly.

    Ill try to dig them up tomorrow.

    #46 1 year ago

    Rectifier Rails…inside joke.

    #47 1 year ago
    Quoted from ibis:

    play_pinball, I agree about the dimpling and pre-drilled aspect, theres always going to be a margin of error when taking off 30 year old parts and replacing them with brand new repo-parts. I do feel that the underneath should be pre-drilled though, based on the fact that if it isn't, your going to be clamping them to the play field when installing them anyway. Most of the time they should line up pretty well and with the clamping, the rail should stay true to the edge of the playfield. The fear being, that some people may not think they need to pre-drill at all, and you run the risk of splitting the hardwood. The same goes for dimpling the top, it will split without a pre-drill by the owner. The dimples are just a suggestion because Im 100% positive most all of the plastics will not align. If a dimple is way off, it should more than likely be covered by the plastic anyway. I may offer the option to pre-drill/dimple or not pre-drill/dimple. It will be a matter of keeping things from getting confusing when manufacturing 3-6 sets at a time and whats tied to the customer.
    As for the tappered-flute, yes, I made headway on the jig today. Im waiting for the right bit to arrive from Amazon before I can go any further. I think the set up will work well, I just need to make some tweaks and have a few practice runs on it before I lay down the real white oak.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    The problem is your dimples, especially the ones on the underside, are only as good as the holes in the set that's sent to you. And they're only as good as the way the factory worker installed all the parts on the game initially. I don't know how many times I've seen rails not true to the edge of the playfield. And if I true them up when installing them on a new playfield, the holes on top won't line up.

    When dealing with repro playfields, I can almost guarantee some of the underside holes will not match up with those on the playfield. And some on the top won't either.

    I used to make my own rails and when I did, I didn't transfer any holes. I made all new ones as things were installed.

    I guess transferring holes worked for Taylor because I don't think anyone ever complained about it....at least not publicly.

    If you were making them for me, I'd make it easy on you and request no holes.

    You are right though, people not familiar with wood working need to be warned about drilling pilot holes.

    Edit: I will say, if you don't keep your old rails, you won't know where to mount the new ones if you don't have dimples or pilot holes.

    #48 1 year ago

    It hasn’t been mentioned yet but also at some point Bally abandoned even screwing the rails in, and just started stapling them. Removing those sucks! I reused my EBDLE rails when I hardtopped it and still had to drill my own underside holes.

    Anyways, definitely not trying to rain on the parade. Thanks again for stepping up and making folks new rails!

    #49 1 year ago

    Yes, the staples truly suck! Ive also seen some play fields with a mixture of both screws and staples. If its preferred by most to not pre-drill or dimple, I certainly can eliminate that form the production.

    Quoted from tktlwyr:

    Rectifier Rails…inside joke.

    LOL! That should be the title of the 'company'

    #50 1 year ago

    Agreed on dimples. Easier to make our own holes. I never complained but often had to make new ones for the reason Bryan described.

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