Hello folks
I am a long time Tolkien fan. I have owned a LOTR pinball machine since we purchased as a Christmas gift December 2003. I bought it when they were making the changes from the Simpsons production to LOTR. Sight unseen and no idea what it would be like. It is the first and only machine I have owned personally. My wife, sons and I have been playing it ever since. I will review in further posts the repair history. It actually has been minimal. My experience has been that Stern has made an incredible pinball machine with only a few flaws.... Its a pinball machine, what do you expect. lol

I have been reading through the entire chat, but I have not seen my exact new problem. I hope someone can help me figure this out. I have a December 2003 LOTR for which I am the original owner. I upgraded the 2 EPROM to version 10 a couple of years ago. All the sound hardware is original since it had worked fine. I am considering upgrading sound, but not yet. I finally decided starting the process by installing a new anypin NVRAM. The install with confirmation was done exactly as per instructions ending in "open coin door". The machine booted back up as expected. The sound was very loud as occurs with replacing the batteries. About 10 minutes later, it made a audible sound and I have not heard any sound since. I think it is a problem with my sound ROMs since I still have all the originals plugged in. I have not upgraded the PAL chip yet. Service bulletin 157 mentions that this could create a problem when mixing higher versions EPROM with lower version sound. So I think a new PAL ship can solve the problem. Please let me know of recommendations for solving this issue with the plan to later upgrade sound and install a shaker. Thanks in advance.

Anyone else having problems setting up an account with Pinsound? I bought a new Pinsound Plus Series kit and received it 2 days ago. I started installing it, but it would not download the files from the preloaded usb. I installed the board, speakers, subwoofer, headphone with volume control, and usb. The shaker is next, but I would like to hear the board working. Inserting the usb into my windows computer showed the downloaded files. There were only 4 of the 6 on the usb of the ones which are available from their website. I plan to load all of them when I can get access. Anyone else have this problem? Thanks

Update on my Pinsound upgrade: I was advised that it takes over an hour to download the new sound files. So I let it sit for over 3 hours before trying again. When I returned, the update was complete! The Pinsound plus board worked as advertised. Now I just have to install the shaker and try out all the sound versions available. The headphones work well to control the volume and change between sound folders. Again, as advertised. Some wire management to do with install too. If you get the Pinsound board, make your Pinsound account at the same time. It seems to be taking me longer than I had anticipated.

Can someone help me find high resolution pictures of the lotr plastics? I need to make some replacement pieces.
Thanks

I agree to use other options since the deflector removes the randomizer function therefore preferring art over gameplay. Obviously, there are flaws which can cause balls to jump out of lanes, cause damage, etc. I follow the intent of using mods to significantly reduce or eliminate flaws without significant gameplay changes. Also, I like mods which add protection, art and/or a better player/observer interface (Pinsound etc.)
With that said and in addition to the deflector, there are three other previously reported options.
1. Replace the damaged Arwen plastic with a new one with a different image. Two are typically readily available. Gollum image and Forest image.
2. DIY a clear polycarbonate (Lexan) overlay which fits over the Arwen plastic to protect it.
3. Find the ramp mod which extends into the Hobbit hole area. These are difficult to find now.

If you are referring to the vertical plastic piece behind the Hobbit hole VUK which separates the left lanes from the Hobbit hole area, I have not seen one available online. Although folks report planning to create them for personal use and for sale, I have not seen a projected date upon which they will be available. For me, this would become a DIY project.
One option would be to buy or find a laser cutter. Then you can make as many plastic pieces as you want. Learning the software CAD files is not difficult if you can learn from online video instruction. The main pro of this option is once a first copy is created, reproducing several is much easier, less time consuming and less expensive per piece.
The second DIY option is to use a Dremel or other Lexan cutting tool. This is a labor intensive process since each piece has curves and need to be made seperately. Also, cleaning up the cut edges is more work intense, but this is my current method since I lost access to the laser cutter option.

Yes!

I have been chasing the black residue which builds up on the playfield. I replaced all the black rubber pieces which dry rot and replaced them with transparent silicone. To do so, I removed most of the playfield pieces, cleaned it all, and waxed the playfield with 100% carnauba wax. I noticed the black residue decreased, but continued to show up on my playfield and silicone. I re-evaluated the playfield. The black painted sidewalls were not losing color so I do not think this is part of the issue. I deducted the only logical cause of this problem is the incandescent bulbs. The heat from the bulbs must be creating soot. I do enjoy the appearance of these bulbs. However, the soot is a huge issue since the soot on the silicone has to be cleaned off every two to three weeks. The worse area is the slingshots. I will keep my box of incandescent bulbs just in case I want to go retro. However, reluctantly I will change out my incandescents to LEDs with an LED board. Input on LED board source is appreciated. I have already replaced some of the bulbs with non-ghosting bulbs. I hope not to replace the ghosting bulbs with regular LEDs since I already spent the money.

Interesting theory. I would suspect more soot in the box since the coils are underneath the playfield. I did inspect the ball box at the bottom of the playfield. Since the balls roll through this area, they could pick up and distribute any soot which collects in the box. However, the box remains clean of soot. Perhaps the balls pick up the soot faster than it can collect in the box. I have cleaned the balls and noticed a very small amount of black soot on them. Perhaps the soot has a small amount of metal within it. Since the balls can become magnetized, they can disseminate the soot more easily if it contains metal. I don't have a way to determine the composition of the soot. So this is only hypothetical. The only way for me to solve this issue is to make some kind of change and see the results. I ask all those who have changed all the incandescent bulbs to LEDs to report on their playfield soot issue. Like I reported, removing the black rubber pieces significantly reduced the amount of soot. But although less, the soot continues.

Interesting responses. Thanks! From your responses so far, the coils and metal micro-fragments can't be decreased as long as the machine is played. Obviously, that is not a viable option! I wonder where the metallic micro-fragments collect in the machine. With a large electromagnet in the machine, I have not noticed a collection of the black soot (metallic micro-fragments) at that location. Maybe it gets disbursed by the pinballs. My science background makes me think that gravity will cause most of the metal fragments to settle on the bottom of the box interior. I have not experienced this either. My hope is someone has knowledge of a scientific report on this topic.
Having to clean the soot from the playfield every 2 to 3 weeks seems excessive to me. The increase in soot started after I changed out the non-functioning incandescent bulbs makes me believe that they have some effect on black soot production. So I guess my question now is: How much does replacement of the incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs decrease the soot?

Pinsound is a big bite off the apple. I got the full kit which includes shaker, headphone station, speakers, usb with preloaded sounds and board. They discount the full kit which offsets some of the shipping cost. Is it worth the cost? There are at least 5 sound packages to download. The shaker options are included. Most importantly, you can edit the sounds and shaker with a free program which is downloadable. They are only Windows programs, but working on Mac. I like the ability to adjust volumes and change the sound packages during play. I have had an issue creating an account with them. I You do not have to set up an account to order. That has limited my ability to download from their website. I was advised that setting up an account can take time. But after a couple weeks of trying I have basically given up.

Yes, I did email them.

Thanks for posting this. There are many good mods, but I like to DIY whenever its feasible. I have been trying to decide the desired method to place the POTD figurine lights. The one without the cape does limit placement options. I was considering using the post lights and/or the strip lights. The ability to bend the strip lights does make this type more versatile. The light color is another factor. Did you consider the blacklight? Otherwise, I also am considering sunlight white, warm white or green. Cool white seems too bright.

The red you used for the demo is nice, but differs from the green hue too dramatically for me. The picture makes it difficult to determine which light would be most appealing to me because the ambient light effect may be too different with the green strip light under the POTD area. Perhaps a different color light like the ones I mentioned may make the figurine stand out a bit more, but not too much.

The other issue is placing the light inside the figurine for best disguise and light dispersal. I like the idea of placing a small piece of wood or material to adhere the light strip for better light coverage. I was considering using a small drill bit to make an opening within the figurine into the body. Within this opening I could place a small extension of the strip light to get better lighting into the torso. The small light points created by the LEDs are ok. But I have been considering placing material over the strip to get better light diffusion so these points of light are not separately discernible. Any thoughts?

I made polycarbonate (Lexan) platforms for each of the 4 POTD figurines which correspond to the 4 lights. Like you, I removed the old posts and replaced them with the clear, taller ones which I could place screws to secure them in place. No cutting of the original POTD plastic was required. The platforms are made more easily with a laser cutter or CNC. I don't have those readily available so making a cardboard templet and cutting the platforms out of Lexan with a Dremel was my method. It does take some cutting and polishing of the platform to remove the melted polycarbonate on the edges. I made the platforms to match the lines created by the POTD platform and wireforms. I do like the way the figurines move when the ball goes through the path. The platforms are well secured. The figurines are attached to the platforms using miniature screws with transparent, anti-vibration spacers between the figurines and each of their platforms. I will place the LED Matrix wiring and lights once I decide on the light color.
It is relatively easy to drill into the figurines. That is my plan for the one without a cape. I was thinking that drilling from the bottom is less noticeable. But I don't know if it will effect its stability. I would like to know your thoughts on LED light colors too. Frosted LED is optimal. But blacklight, sunlight white, warm white and green are still undecided as I mentioned previously.

You did a great job matching the lines from the POTD platform. Also, I like that you can see the ball rolling underneath. You placed the Legolas figurine further up the wireform than I have seen others do. Visually it works in that position too. So many options! I placed my Legolas below the gate like others. I wanted it to slow the ball down so it reduced the probability of the ball falling off the ramp. It worked, but the ramp has been slowly rotating so I have to fixate it better since the balls do impact it. Placing the green light in the torso creates a nice illusion in the lower part too. Thanks for posting your work.

I would enjoy seeing your pictures. My POTD figurines are in place without lighting yet. I will post mine when I complete the lighting install. The other small but significant mod I made was to modify one of the bases for the figurines. I did not use bases under the POTD figurines, personal preference. I used one of the bases to prevent the ball from hitting the left upper sidewall and to stop the ball from having a place to get stuck. It was simple. I drilled a hole through the base in the corner which left the skulls in the most visible position. Any slight modifications to the upper surface were made using a Dremel so the post would fit more flush. The feet placement points were eliminated using a Dremel with a small carbide disk. Also easy, no paint needed. I placed it beneath the most upper left post which I modified to hold the base and the king of the dead figurine placed on a transparent platform which I DIYed. Now the ball comes out of the VUK and hits the base. It never gets stuck or hits the wall. The visuals look good and it does not block the view of anything.
I enjoy seeing all the ways people come up with to display the POTD area. Keep the ideas and pictures coming!

I need some expert help please. My right flipper is not moving! The button works to change the display and scroll through the menu display. The left flipper works fine. I have never had any one-sided flipper issues in the past. I have a Dec 2003 LOTR (not LE) which I have been the sole owner since then. Because of medical issues, I have had time to do repairs, upgrades and mods for the last 2 years. Everything has been working well since I placed the full Pinsound package. Thanks to all who helped me through that sharade!
My flipper power had been slowly decreasing lately. So as many have suggested, I decided to buy some of the new medium strength coils off of Ebay. I installed them about a week ago. They worked great until yesterday. When I turned it on, booted up the machine, and pressed the game start button - the right flipper did not move. The left flipper works fine. The game reset after about thirty seconds. I turned it off. When I inspected the machine, the right flipper fuse was blown. I replaced it with a new 3A fuse. Then I continued troubleshooting for the cause. Nothing looked burnt. Mechanically, both flippers work smoothly with manual movement. I did not replace the flipper assemblies because they did not show any significant wear. I did clean the flipper assemblies in place without disassembling them. No lubricant was added or needed.
Both original coils had some soot as expected, especially on the outside edges. I expect the heat damage is what finally caused the flippers to weaken. Not bad for almost 18 years of home use. I went through the DR diagnostics. Not very helpful. I have read the manual several times and tried finding information posted on the internet. Nothing conclusive and very frustrating. My only thought is to desolder the new coil and replace with the old coil to see if its the new coil or its wiring. This is not my favorite option to proceed. Since I have no prior experience with flipper coils, my only self-directed course is more trial and error. Please help.