Ok so I received the board for the LED's today. I am waiting to put it in, but the Board number they sent is PCB 40. Clearly, the board with the blown fuse is board 53. On the left of board, 53 is where the flashers are connected. Does anyone know the differences between these 2 boards? I am still suspecting board 53. I do not like American Pinball's Secrecy around the electronics. They will not make it long with owners not able to maintain their own games. Putting this machine on a route could turn into a nightmare without being able to troubleshoot.

Screenshot 2023-09-14 101825 (resized).png

Not sure if you have this shop manual or if it helps, but I found this. http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2020-7/Hot-Wheels-Manual-7-13-2020.pdf

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/American_Pinball_Repair_Guides#Games

C9728087-82EE-4EDD-ADD7-F4534AAD7E16 (resized).jpeg

You could reach out to the former American Pinball Technical Services Manager, Dave Brennan. I’m sure he’s on pinside. This is his YT channel and he also streams on twitch. https://www.youtube.com/user/brenna98msu

https://m.twitch.tv/daves_arcade/home

Thanks Rosh. That is what i am trying to tell technical support. I believe the board that is boinked is 53.

Just knowing what both boards do, will help many down the road as these games get older. I'm am actually glad that I purchased board 40. I am going to keep it as I don't know what future availability will be.

To summarize: (Credit : Rosh)

PCB Board 40 is a 3.3/5V LED board that drives up to 15 RGB LEDs, and acts as the start of the LED serial chain.
PCB Board 53 is a 12v, pwm driver board capable of supporting, motors, LED flashers, and RGB LED strips
They are both on the same serial bus

PCB Board 48 I know runs the E and P LED's and I am not sure what else it does.

Thanks Balderdash, That is a great piece of the puzzle. The more we can document in this thread will help others down the road.

Update to the Board saga. AP sent me an e-mail that they are sending me PCB board 53 free of charge. I wrote back and asked how much the board was and that I would pay. The machine isn't under warranty and I am the one that fryed the board, but he said it was a mistake that they didn't realize that the board 40 was not the issue. Very strange. Thanks Rosh for the info. This should have been a simple replacement, but something seems off. I would like to buy all of the boards so I have spares if something happens to AP. Hot Wheels have become my favorite Pin. I want to keep it running for many years.

Good for you! Unfortunately the world often works the opposite of this, and I'm glad there is still some integrity out there.

Alright, I picked up my Hot Wheels tonight. Fun game, as expected! I do have a question though: As someone who hasn't bought a Hot Wheels car since I was 9yo, I'd like to know the best place to buy individual cars -online-. I had imagined just going online and browsing a huge selection, but I haven't quite found that yet. I know I can browse the aisles at Walmart, etc, but I'd guess I'm not interested in 99.9% of the cars that are available.

Wiley's - https://www.toystrainsandotheroldstuff.com/2023/10/05/https-auctions-toystrainsandotheroldstuff-com-auctions-1-80qjo7-online-only-redline-hot-wheels-and-slot-cars/

Ebay.

LTG : )

Use keyword searches for makes/models of interest on eBay. Also, check out Mattel Creations and their Red Line Club (RLC) cars, at $25-$30 each, a more serious line of collectible Hot Wheels cars compared to the $1.50 cars found on pegs.

I just received PCB board 53 from AP. Notice on the left all of the flashers connect to this board. I won’t be able to install it for a few weeks until I get home, but I will post back to the forum the results . I have attached the photo for this board for future reference.

IMG_6411 (resized).jpeg

So I have a dead magnet. It's not working during testing or gameplay. I've found only four fuses, and they all check fine. The connection to the magnet is fine. It worked a few days ago. Any suggestions? And where are the rest of the fuses?

If only there was a service manual..........................

There’s a thermal fuse underneath the tape of the magnet. That is likely your culprit that’s blown. They installed non resettable thermal fuses instead of resettable ones. Take the tape off install new thermal fuse and you’re away

I've looked at that manual. Several times. Even before I bought it. It's been open, in my browser, for two days. When you search "fuses", it shows exactly zero locations. There's also a tech sheet that is quite informative, but still with zero fuse locations.

A more helpful response you could have given was "There’s a thermal fuse underneath the tape of the magnet" (thanks Audioenslaved). That is actually useful.

arcyallen if this works please post pics and the fuze and where to get it. My magnet has never worked since I have had my game.
I guess I can’t miss what I never have had.

Dude. That wasn’t a dig on you. I was pointing out how American hasn’t provided ample technical instructions or wiring diagrams. I was referring to the ongoing frustration AP owners have over the lack of end user resources. Only a few posts ago I was providing links and contact information to someone so they could get the answers they needed. Meanwhile you being captain obvious to someone, scolded them for connecting alligator clips while their power was on. I’m sure they didn’t appreciate your patronizing tone as you began with “I don't have an answer for you (sorry) but here's the lesson...” Just as I don’t appreciate your passive aggressive downvote since you misunderstood my comment not being directed at you. Deep breath. I hope you get a resolution for your game. I know that downtime is frustrating.

Please post if you find a fix. I knew my
Machine had a magnet, but just
Realized it has never worked.

If you think the self-deprecating comment of "I don't have an answer for you (sorry) but here's the lesson we all learn once: Don't do that sort of work with the power on! I was adjusting some leaf switches on my brand new MB a couple years ago and did the same thing." sounds scolding and patronizing, eesh. It goes to show how horrible both you and I are about understanding the intent of each other's messages.

I've been seeing more and more of this recently, which is interesting. I think we both need to take that deep breath. I am, indeed, sensitive to what I see as snarky attacks (on myself but mostly on others). Which are unfortunately rampant here on Pinside. Sorry to misinterpret your original comment.

And for the rest of you asking, I'll update you soon on what I find out.

So an update on the dead magnet: It appears I'll be ordering a new magnet later today unless I find the values for that fuse. In order to remove it, you take out three screws and then firmly but slowly rotate and pull the magnet assembly out. Once it's out, you can remove the tape to find the fuse. It tests dead, but based on the data printed on the side of it I can't figure out what to order. Feel free to chime in if you have some wisdom here! AP mentioned that while it could be just a fried fuse, there also could be a transistor locked on which is constantly sending 48V to the magnet. I don't appear to have that issue during testing, and never saw that happen during playing, so I'm thinking a replacement fuse or magnet will take care of it.

PXL_20230925_153240613.jpg

PXL_20230925_152909755.jpg

PXL_20230925_153010245.jpg

It’ll work. I’ve bypassed my fuse (I’ve got the new one just haven’t fixed it yet) and the magnet works so it’s 100% a thermal fuse problem if everything else in your game is working

i really have NO idea to where i could install this...

hw (resized).jpg

That looks perfect for the spinner

IMG_20230928_112343_259 (resized).jpg

IMG_20230928_113239_599 (resized).jpg

Hell yeah that’s what I’m talking about. Looks bad ass . I have been thinking about an x wing, but that looks awesome

I went Mario theme.

IMG_2572 (resized).jpeg

Great minds think alike

IMG_6207 (resized).jpeg

I emailed american pinball and they think my issue might be power supply. So, I ordered one and hoping that fixes my dead flipper issue that is very sporatic. Its also weird because if I open the coin door to adjust anything the flippers and coils are dead sometimes even with door closed. We will see.
I am making the first looping ramp order for a customer now. I went a hair smaller on the width to see it. Testing for a few days, but the vuk power has a sweet spot for the loop. If the ball is a weak one it will roll out cut out guide back to vuk or drop to plastic ramp side. Theres guides to achieve this as seen. I really enjoy this game. Its just fun and has great shots. If the power supply fixes the issue I will update here for other owners to see.

Video of loop testing new ramp:

5787EC7B-F5AD-4063-A082-010AC70E7CDA (resized).jpeg

6D50195D-9D8B-44D7-BE6B-B73C58D65057 (resized).jpeg

IMG_7602 (resized).jpeg

IMG_7603 (resized).jpeg

IMG_7610 (resized).jpeg

IMG_7608 (resized).jpeg

That’s fugging cool man! That and you alien ramps are awesome!!

Thanks. I had not a single sale of Alien whipping tail ramp. I was stunned, so I appreciate the comment.
Customer #1 ramp going out this week. I post videos of them on youtube and instagram so they can see it on the game working prior to shipping.

Set #1 playtest. Waiting on him to tell me if he wants the outer loop painted.

Two questions:
-I'm having a lot of rejects out of the Build Track saucer. I'll shoot the ball all the way in and it bounces back out. I think the gate is not settling down quick enough to trap the ball. Any recommendations? I plan to add a drop of oil to that gate to hopefully make it drop a split second faster.
-I'm having the same problem on the right lock saucer. It bounces back out, or sometimes feeds all the way through back down to the right inlane without stopping. Is there supposed to be any sort of gate there?

I also tried lowering the flipper power a hair but when I do that I can't make the far left ramp shot consistently.

for the left one, check my messages, starting at #4010, this easy DIY trick works (quite) perfectly !

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-hot-wheels-club-challenge-accepted?tu=ripleyyy#op

for the right one, i also get some rejects, but i deal with it...

Check the drop targets in front of the saucers. If those are not flush with the playfield you could be getting some ball hop that causes it to bounce out.

I added some rubbers to that gate and it's 5 for 5 now. Thanks for the tip!

I adjusted both of them earlier as I noticed the occasional slow ball hang. I have the problem that when they drop, the bottom of the target bracket below the playfield sometimes lands on the rubber stopper a bit crooked and it drops more than normal. So either it's "Level 98% of the time, low 2%" or "A bit high 98% of the time, level 2%". I chose the first.

This happens to me about 30% of the time. Not super annoying, in fact, I find it kind of whimsical. But I'll fix it if there is a solution.

This is a follow up on my flashers not working after trying to add pinstadium lights and blowing the board. I replaced board 53 today and it worked perfect. Thanks to Rosh for the help. I’m finally starting to figure out the electronics . Btw I wasn’t going to risk blowing the flasher board again so I connected the pinstadium to the shaker. Works perfect. If you search for hot wheels by American Pinball prime time amusements on YouTube, you will see a machine that had my exact problem. And wouldn’t you know it, they have pinstadium lights. I’d you watch the video, notice the right flasher is stuck on.

I am selling my Hot Wheels for $5k if anyone is local to Akron. I found a game I really want bad so this one has to go.

Can you share the part number of the fuse? Thanks

Wow I wish I lived closer that is a screaming deal

Something like this will cut the mustard

https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/thermal-fuses/2047433

Has anyone added under-cabinet lighting to their Hot Wheels? I'm kinda thinking it may not be able to be tied into the machine itself and will need to plug into the wall separately but looking for any previous experience from other owners.

I bought the first one from AP for $29. The board 53 they sent me for free. It doesnt look like you can buy Board 53.

Hey Pinball buyer. Are you going to sell those ramps?

I made the first one and posted the final
price. And my first buyer dropped out. I was fine with him doing so as i have learned anything over $300 is a killer. Its six hours labor plus materials and shipping. Came out to $375 shipped. Tuning the angles of the curves to function on the machine is also part of it including playtesting. It is alot to do and painting takes another hour with prep. At this point I am pretty sure its dead in the water.

And I need a new power supply for my machine and that was met with we dont have any instock and theres no eta on them from ap. Sad.

Its also hard to playtest when the coils go weak. Power supply..

Are you selling the ramp that your customer backed out? PM Me if you are.