Does anyone have any pictures/links showing the differences between the "old" HW and newer updated HW that AP started building recently? I know there are some cosmetic differences with the cabinet. I'm also looking for a (preferably) used on near VT!

I generally don't care for mods, especially ones that change the path of the ball, but this looks pretty awesome! The only downside is the sadness and disappointment I'd feel in myself any time I don't make the full loop

I don't have an answer for you (sorry) but here's the lesson we all learn once: Don't do that sort of work with the power on! I was adjusting some leaf switches on my brand new MB a couple years ago and did the same thing. Thankfully, it shorted, reset the machine (ohcrapohcrapohcrap!) and all was fine after. If you end up needing just a fuse, it's a cheap lesson learned.

Good for you! Unfortunately the world often works the opposite of this, and I'm glad there is still some integrity out there.

Alright, I picked up my Hot Wheels tonight. Fun game, as expected! I do have a question though: As someone who hasn't bought a Hot Wheels car since I was 9yo, I'd like to know the best place to buy individual cars -online-. I had imagined just going online and browsing a huge selection, but I haven't quite found that yet. I know I can browse the aisles at Walmart, etc, but I'd guess I'm not interested in 99.9% of the cars that are available.

So I have a dead magnet. It's not working during testing or gameplay. I've found only four fuses, and they all check fine. The connection to the magnet is fine. It worked a few days ago. Any suggestions? And where are the rest of the fuses?

I've looked at that manual. Several times. Even before I bought it. It's been open, in my browser, for two days. When you search "fuses", it shows exactly zero locations. There's also a tech sheet that is quite informative, but still with zero fuse locations.

A more helpful response you could have given was "There’s a thermal fuse underneath the tape of the magnet" (thanks Audioenslaved). That is actually useful.

If you think the self-deprecating comment of "I don't have an answer for you (sorry) but here's the lesson we all learn once: Don't do that sort of work with the power on! I was adjusting some leaf switches on my brand new MB a couple years ago and did the same thing." sounds scolding and patronizing, eesh. It goes to show how horrible both you and I are about understanding the intent of each other's messages.

I've been seeing more and more of this recently, which is interesting. I think we both need to take that deep breath. I am, indeed, sensitive to what I see as snarky attacks (on myself but mostly on others). Which are unfortunately rampant here on Pinside. Sorry to misinterpret your original comment.

And for the rest of you asking, I'll update you soon on what I find out.

So an update on the dead magnet: It appears I'll be ordering a new magnet later today unless I find the values for that fuse. In order to remove it, you take out three screws and then firmly but slowly rotate and pull the magnet assembly out. Once it's out, you can remove the tape to find the fuse. It tests dead, but based on the data printed on the side of it I can't figure out what to order. Feel free to chime in if you have some wisdom here! AP mentioned that while it could be just a fried fuse, there also could be a transistor locked on which is constantly sending 48V to the magnet. I don't appear to have that issue during testing, and never saw that happen during playing, so I'm thinking a replacement fuse or magnet will take care of it.

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Two questions:
-I'm having a lot of rejects out of the Build Track saucer. I'll shoot the ball all the way in and it bounces back out. I think the gate is not settling down quick enough to trap the ball. Any recommendations? I plan to add a drop of oil to that gate to hopefully make it drop a split second faster.
-I'm having the same problem on the right lock saucer. It bounces back out, or sometimes feeds all the way through back down to the right inlane without stopping. Is there supposed to be any sort of gate there?

I also tried lowering the flipper power a hair but when I do that I can't make the far left ramp shot consistently.

I added some rubbers to that gate and it's 5 for 5 now. Thanks for the tip!

I adjusted both of them earlier as I noticed the occasional slow ball hang. I have the problem that when they drop, the bottom of the target bracket below the playfield sometimes lands on the rubber stopper a bit crooked and it drops more than normal. So either it's "Level 98% of the time, low 2%" or "A bit high 98% of the time, level 2%". I chose the first.

Pricing at most places is pretty similar. I find this is a great page to look at for a quick (but incomplete) rundown on options:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/new-games#hot-wheels

Two tips:
-The game is designed to run at 6 degrees of pitch. This is not Jurassic Park.
-Several have reported the magnet at the top of the playfield being non-functional. Make sure it's functional. It's an easy swap if it's bad.

Last tip: get some Hot Wheels to put in the pin! And Dual lock aka heavy duty Velcro to attach them. My friend custom made a General Lee for me. He is a good man.

Also, isn't this a kick in the pants? Some day I hope to achieve more than I lose...

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Alright, rules/scoring question. I took the glass off the game tonight to experiment and confirm what I thought I knew. Tell me if this is right or wrong, because it sure seems correct:
All playfield scoring is multiplied by the RPMs. If the indicator is lit through 8, for example, the playfield has 8x scoring. If you had played Redline Mania and shifted into 2nd, it's now 2x AND 8x. This seems insane. OH, and I didn't even try the 10x Turbo on top of that. Please tell me...does that really make the scenario 2x8x10 scoring? I'm realizing now I didn't even try this.

I rarely play for points, but it's fun to toy around and try to maximize things. Having said that, this seems like a recipe for some unintentionally huge scoring. Can someone share some insight?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the tach on the backglass display and the 1-10 tach on the playfield are synced and displaying (roughly) the same information - right?

Yikes! I have to ask: Who's signatures ARE those?

AP recommends 6 degrees. Unless all the stars align (and your floor is perfectly flat) you'll need to adjust those leg levellers.

No noticeable differences during gameplay, which is part of the point. It's a way for them to standardize boards and make it easier to supply them in the future.

LOV is still my favorite AP pin. Get on it!

While I appreciate the info and posts about fixes for the green screen issue (which thankfully I don't have), it also makes me sad. Having to upgrade components on what should be a closed/fixed system that's several years old feels...awkward.