If you bought a remake you're in the wrong club, there's a separate thread for that game. But congratulations either way!

Thanks, I’ll head over there. Sorry.

Lhyrgoif what coil should it be? Maybe I put the wrong one in there

Catapult should be an AL-23-800 according to the owner's manual.

Thanks a lot to Scott who sold me his playfield. I have it restored and I’m happy with the result. The best playfield are the originals.
It will shine once again and I’ll have also a playfield for sale after the swap.
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I’m looking for a MM NOS or used playfield that can be restored.

Please PM me with what you have.

Thanks

Playfield may be available end pf this hear/ beginning 2024. Whenever I can find time to do the swap.

Thanks, i had to wait 8 months to have it restored. Less and less people are doing it unfortunately. What is working well now (at least in France) and for people who want to avoid Mirco, is give for a reprint the original playfield.

When doing a playfield swap; are all the T-Nut’s

8-32 1/4" barrel - 19/32" base

If this is accurate this answers my question. Posting this incase someone else ever needs this info.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t-nut-mm-playfield-size

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4408-01118-00

Yes - and total 64 pcs.

Wow they are hard to pound in. I am trying this method and they really need a pounding to go in. Make me nervous that the clear will possibly crack.

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No worries. 2 definite hits, and that's it.

I am confused. If all the t-nuts are 8-32 these bumper posts in MM do not fit them? So I am now nervous to install all 8-32 t-nuts and then have to pull some back out in the middle of a swap.

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For bumper posts, use a nylock nut with washer.

who you replying too?
all I see is ignore user comment and I'm not blocking anyone ! ???

ok cool, thanks for getting back to me! I think installing these T-nuts will be time consuming and annoying. I hate doing work twice so I wanted to make sure I am off to a good start. Are there any other mechs or posts that I should not install the 8/32 T nuts?

Thanks again.

If someone ignores you, you can't see his/her posts.
I know, it's a strange method.

The location of T-nuts are visible on the old playfield, there are claw marks in the wood.

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Ok thanks! a buddy told me this swap would go alot faster if I prepopulated the playfield with T-nuts. I wasn't a fan of the idea. however when I saw that all the t-nuts are the same size for MM. i thought ok this should be simple and straight forward. and it might be, but I didn't want to screw it up. I haven't done a playfield swap in 23 years and I can't remember jack sh!t anymore.

The assemblies are the same (original vs CGC).
The difference is about lampboards (12 original lamboards vs big lampboard), so you may have to add some holes for wooden screws.
Other than that, I don't see any issue.

The cabinet speaker on my MM does not work. Can I test it by making a new IDC connector with wires; plugging that into the sound board connection J504 and then into a test speaker? It's either the board, a broken wire, or the speaker, correct?

Has anyone installed the lcd color dmd and how hard was it to update the firmware?

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It's very simple, load the ROM onto a USB stick, insert it in the slot and then use the buttons to navigate to the upgrade function. There's even a video with instructions here: https://www.colordmd.com/support_firmware_chroma.html

log out then look at forum again.

bobukcat thanks! Appreciate it! Did you put one in?

Yeah, I did it years ago. It's the LCD version, install was easy and it looks outstanding, especially after adjusting brightness and contrast for best results.

Yep the cabinet channel is out. That sucks. Well if anyone ever runs into this issue this is a really easy way to test it.

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Playfield swap! Don’t think I’ll do that anytime soon again! Wow!

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Need advice on electrical issue:

I have owned this game since early 2000's. Last year, i put in all new LED's in head and on the playfield. Also put in new ramps, cleaned the playfield, new rubbers, etc. Everything was working fine for the last 10 months. A couple of weeks ago, turned it on, and only the backbox lights came on. No DMD, no lower lights, although they flashed occasionally.

I looked at the LED lights on the various boards in the head and saw that there was an issue with the indicator lights 201,202 and 203 on the CPU board. I reseated all of the cables on the CPU board, and voila, everything seemed to work. The date/time was reset, but all lights/display, etc seemed to work fine.

I tried to play a game but unfortunately nothing happens when you press the flipper buttons. I did a flipper test in the test menu and the flipper solenoids fire. It seems that only the flipper buttons don't work. Additionally, I cannot scroll through the high scores using the flipper buttons.

Suggestions as to what to check now?

Thanks, Mike

Both flipper button opto boards plugged in ? Power to the right flipper button opto board ?

LTG : )

Yes. It just got a bit crazier. I turned the game on and off a couple of times. Each time flipper button did not work. 1st time, i was checking switch edges and got the flipper switch edges to show up as working, but doing the tests a couple of times, they did not show up again when I had it in test mode. After turning on and off, next the DMD did not turn on. Last time, half the playfield lights went out also, and the buttons on the cabinet door stopped working (i know they were working after the DMD went out because when I pressed the buttons, I got the beep. Also, on this try, the castle gate went up and down on its own. On this last go around, nothing turn on except the backbox lights and some of the playfield.

How are the batteries on the CPU board?

Brand new Lithiums

You try and re-seat all connections? Also make sure all screws going into the boards are snug. Check ground straps in back box. Sometimes this is an easy fix. Sometimes you need to send your boards to Clive in South Carolina for repair.

I checked everything except the ground straps. Will do that today. I have had Clive to my PDB on my STTNG last year, so it sounds like I need to get him my boards to see what is going on here.

bobukcat how do you know which version to choose to download? I have the original MM

I had two of these made. Selling one and keeping one. Anyone interested?

100% Custom hand-bent glass tube REAL NEON light. Measures 22"x7". Mounted on a sturdy metal frame with rubber bumpers so it can be hung in an outward facing window or on a wall via the included chain.

Perfect for your mancave or gameroom.

$750 plus shipping

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Just got my PDB and CPU Board back from Clive. The CPU had corrosion that he cleaned up and made whole again. He tested and said the PDB was fine. No fix needed. I put them back in, fired it up, and everything works except the lower playfield GI. Fuses look good. Any suggestions? Thanks

broken wire in the chain ?

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

As in pull and check with a meter ?

LTG : )

yes, pulled and checked with a meter.

Cool. You have a meter. Power at the bulb socket ? Power leaving the driver board ? It's AC, hot to common.

Narrow down where you lose it.

LTG : )

Measure the GI voltage. The lower GI is the brown/white-brown (pin 1, 7).
As LTG mentioned, 1st measure for example the slingshot GI lamp voltage. If it fails, then the GI connector at Power Driver Board.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I had power at the board, and nothing at the lamps. I traced it to the J105 connector. One of the wired had partially come off the connector. Pushed it back against the two blades in the connector, and got power back. Everything works now as before, and with the rebuilt CPU board, no problems.

New owner here.
Lifted the playfield and saw this single wire.
It's normal or should be connected to something else I can't find or see??

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